--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #279
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
September 8 1999 Volume 01 : Number
279
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 11:14:10 -0500
From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: So THAT's what a glazed disc smells like?
Hi Darcy,
I'm no
clutch guru either, but here's some answers.
>1) I didn't know that
two discs could be instaled (RPS and OE) at the same
time in the same car.
Can you explain?
I have the 2nd stage clutch, uses RPS's HD pressure
plate and a Mitsubishi
disc. The 3rd stage is the big one, uses RPS's
[recently redesigned]
special disc, not Mitsu's.
>2) Are you sure
you had a burning metal smell and not a burning clutch
smell? They point at
different problems.
I just assumed it was the OE disc, since operation
immediately changed. I
really don't know where the aroma came
from. =)
>3) Did you replace the TOB, pressure plate and
flywheel at the time you put
in a new disc?
Yes, yes, no.
=) I had the flywheel resurfaced, they said it was in decent
shape to
do so.
I might take Bob Rand's advice (I'm just looking for an excuse to
drop the
tranny, I admit) once I get some decent jacking
equipment.
Any recommendations? I see Northern Tool has a nice
lifting thing for about
$400, up to 35" jacking distance!
Anyway, the
monster seems okay for now, BUT, I want to make sure I take care
of
it...
*Phil
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 09:52:47 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: So THAT's what a glazed disc smells like?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, September 07, 1999 9:18 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: So THAT's what a
glazed disc smells like?
>Hi Darcy,
(Hey
Phil)
>I'm no clutch guru either, but here's some
answers.
>
>>1) I didn't know that two discs could be instaled
(RPS and OE) at the same
>time in the same car. Can you
explain?
>
>I have the 2nd stage clutch, uses RPS's HD pressure
plate and a Mitsubishi
>disc. The 3rd stage is the big one, uses
RPS's [recently redesigned]
>special disc, not Mitsu's.
That
explains it. I wanted to be certain we were on the same bus
;-)
>
>>2) Are you sure you had a burning metal smell and not a
burning clutch
>smell? They point at different problems.
>
>I
just assumed it was the OE disc, since operation immediately changed.
I
>really don't know where the aroma came from. =)
Did it
smell like burned brakes, or burned metal? The former is similar to
a
burned
clutch smell. The later might indicate the problem is
something else.
>>3) Did you replace the TOB, pressure plate and
flywheel at the time you
put
>in a new disc?
>
>Yes, yes,
no. =) I had the flywheel resurfaced, they said it was
in
decent
>shape to do so.
A few people who have been advised
that their flywheel only needed
resurfacing
have found that they wished
they'd changed it...ie clutch's now slipping.
There was a
posting awhile
back indicating tolerances are too low to resurface. Dunno.
>
>I
might take Bob Rand's advice (I'm just looking for an excuse to drop
the
>tranny, I admit) once I get some decent jacking
equipment.
Well, hopefully that'll reveal the problem when she's
opened up. Post back
on it.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 09:01:37 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FS: 1992 R/T TT
All:
For those of you old-timers in
the 3S community that
remember James Retych, (before he succumbed to the
dark
<Viper> side), you'll also remember his `92 R/T TT.
The
person who purchased the car from James is now ready to
part with this
beauty, (another one of those Viper people),
and I agreed to post this
ad.
1992 R/T TT
Blue w/dual white
striping
Profec
Upgraded shifter
K&N FIPK
Braided SS brake
lines
59k miles
$13,995
The car is in the PNW, and I *suppose* I
could be persuaded
to test-drive the car for a prospective buyer if it is
arranged through the owner first ;-).
For more info on the car,
contact the owner directly at:
AVIPERGUY@aol.com The owner's
name is Jon Brobst.
Rich
- --
"If you dig it, do it.
If
you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce (1943-1973)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 10:21:15 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions about new AVC-R (was: AVC-R installation tips)
Hi
Jim,
> The new AVC-R sounds great! For those of us with the
previous
> generation SAVC-R, would you recommend upgrading?
It truly is a great unit. Would it make you go faster?
Probably not really.
> I wonder how
> much of the existing
wiring could be reused (vs. ripping
> everything out and installing all of
the wiring that comes
> with the new unit)...
There are 6
required wires for: power; RPM or IDC; Throttle; Speed; and
2
grounds. Also there is 1 optional wire for a scramble switch if you
wish to
change your boost and duty settings for a few seconds (yes,
programmable) at the
push of a button.
>What are street
prices? And is the boost
> solonoid now quieter (doesn't sound like
it from your description)?
I have not heard the solenoid. I have it
tie wrapped to the fill neck of the
windshield washer bottle using the rubber
mount so it is very insulated from
transmitting noise.
See
ya,
Ken
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 18:09:05 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Uninstalling a HKS EVC IV Help please
Ok I need to remove an HKS
EVC IV from my mom's car cause the transmission
is having probs and it is
under warranty. Now the person whom had the car
before and installed
the boost controller has it done as the following:
1 hose is connected to the
back of the y-pipe
1 hose is connected to a y split on the top of the plenum
close to the front
of the car. It is the bigger hose. It isn't
the hose which is in the back
which I was told you are supposed to tap the
boost gauge into.
1 hose is attached to a 4 way connection. I assume
this is the H connection
but I am not sure cause it doesn't look like an
H. It has two connections
on the top, one connection on the bottom and
one connection on the side.
Now I know I will hafta get some 2 way
connection so that it doesn't branch
off but I remember reading something
having been done with the stock boost
solenoid. I looked at it and it
has one hose on the top which goes to
something and what looks to be a port
underneath but it capped. I tried to
take the cap off but it wouldn't
come off. Anyone who can please help me, I
would appreciate it. I
have tried looking at the Swiss Turbo basic's page
and other pages related
but with my dyslexia I get confused. Thanks for any
and all
help.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 08 Sep 1999 00:04:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: B&M "New Volt" ignition amplifier
GOOD NEWS :
With the
help of a buddy in Pleasanton, CA. I'm getting one of these boxes to
test
with the datalogger and to provide real dyno data.
> What I am
currently investigating is the MSD DIS-4.
Just as an aside, the guy we
are dealing with is the B&M Chief Engineer who,
prior to joining B&M,
designed all the MSD and Crane ignitions. He acknowledges
that those systems
don't work well with our cars and the reason he came to B&M
was they
agreed to let him build a correct system for the 3000GT, Supra, and
other
turbo/supercharged vehicles. He has tested the unit on a Skyline GT-R at
2.5
BAR of boost with no knock (jadda-jadda). He runs a supercharged corvette
at
13 psi (gulp) and a 0.70 plug gap. Any questions ??
Stay tuned, as
I'm taking the next two weeks off for car-stuff ;-) Damn, I need
more space
for my web-site, haha. I'll give you all a short update on what is
going on
in the next weeks.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 08 Sep 1999 00:04:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: B&M "New Volt" ignition amplifier
GOOD NEWS :
With the
help of a buddy in Pleasanton, CA. I'm getting one of these boxes to
test
with the datalogger and to provide real dyno data.
> What I am
currently investigating is the MSD DIS-4.
Just as an aside, the guy we
are dealing with is the B&M Chief Engineer who,
prior to joining B&M,
designed all the MSD and Crane ignitions. He acknowledges
that those systems
don't work well with our cars and the reason he came to B&M
was they
agreed to let him build a correct system for the 3000GT, Supra, and
other
turbo/supercharged vehicles. He has tested the unit on a Skyline GT-R at
2.5
BAR of boost with no knock (jadda-jadda). He runs a supercharged corvette
at
13 psi (gulp) and a 0.70 plug gap. Any questions ??
Stay tuned, as
I'm taking the next two weeks off for car-stuff ;-) Damn, I need
more space
for my web-site, haha. I'll give you all a short update on what is
going on
in the next weeks.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 15:51:17 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Uninstalling a HKS EVC IV Help please
Hi Josh,
I can
get you started. Hopefully someone can supply the other info since
I'm
unfamiliar with the EVC installation.
The 4-way or "H" connector
should be plumbed as follows: 1 hose to EACH of the
waste gate
actuators (2 total, the bottom H connector goes to the rear actuator,
the
side goes to the front actuator), 1 hose to the stock boost control
solenoid
valve (top left H connector), 1 hose to the back of the Y-pipe (top
right H
connector). There is also a hose that comes off the rear turbo
and it should
also go to the stock boost control solenoid valve.
Right
now, the H connector should be connected to the acuators correctly.
Just
check/move the top connector's hoses. Also it sounds like the hose
connected to
the stock solenoid is currently correct (probably from the rear
turbo).
Good luck,
Ken
> Ok I need to remove an HKS EVC IV
from my mom's car cause the transmission
> is having probs and it is under
warranty. Now the person whom had the car
> before and installed the
boost controller has it done as the following:
> 1 hose is connected to
the back of the y-pipe
> 1 hose is connected to a y split on the top of
the plenum close to the front
> of the car. It is the bigger
hose. It isn't the hose which is in the back
> which I was told you
are supposed to tap the boost gauge into.
> 1 hose is attached to a 4 way
connection. I assume this is the H connection
> but I am not sure
cause it doesn't look like an H. It has two connections
> on the
top, one connection on the bottom and one connection on the side.
> Now I
know I will hafta get some 2 way connection so that it doesn't branch
>
off but I remember reading something having been done with the stock
boost
> solenoid. I looked at it and it has one hose on the top
which goes to
> something and what looks to be a port underneath but it
capped. I tried to
> take the cap off but it wouldn't come
off. Anyone who can please help me, I
> would appreciate it. I
have tried looking at the Swiss Turbo basic's page
> and other pages
related but with my dyslexia I get confused. Thanks for any
> and
all help.
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 01:04:47 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Uninstalling a HKS EVC IV Help please
>1 hose is connected to
the back of the y-pipe
>1 hose is connected to a y split on the top of the
plenum close to the
front
>1 hose is attached to a 4 way
connection. I assume this is the H
connection
>Now I know I will
hafta get some 2 way connection so that it doesn't branch
>off but I
remember reading something having been done with the stock
boost
>something and what looks to be a port underneath but it
capped. I tried to
Ok, here's the picture :
- - from the
back of the y-pipe the hose is directly connected to the 4-way
connector
-
- from the 4-way connector, one hose must go up to the black boost
solenoid.
It is located just above the 4-way connector and sits on the
firewall.
Remove the cap of the port and attach the hose from the 4-way
connector to
it.
- - from the top port the hose runs down close to the
intake of the rear
turbo. It should be still attached.
- - Remove the T
split from the top of the plenum and assure that the line is
going up to the
throttle body and then leads underneath the MAS housing wher
it is connected
to the bypass valve.
That's it, nothing more is necessary (remove the HKS
box out of the car).
The car shoud then be driven carefully for testing
and it should have
noticeably less power. If it has more, you forgot to
reconnect one of these
hoses. Check everything again then. Also, have a look
at the DSBC
installation page on my SwissCars site as there are some pics
that can be
helpful. If you do the reverse than described you'll be
fine.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 16:33:54 -0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Air Cleaner advice sought
Hello all,
When I last
changed my air filter ('92 VR4) I noticed that the bargain
filter element had
failed. The glue used to hold the fiber webbing to
the black plastic
frame had not held. I replaced it with a "puralator
premium", which has
two additional plastic ribs holding the filter media
in place.
The
filter element cost over $21.
What are my options for an after market air
cleaner with washable filter
media?
Thanks,
John
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 17:01:52 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air Cleaner advice sought
Hi John;
Try K&N for a slip
in that is washable.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 22:21:48 -0400
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies (ADMINS CHECK PLEASE)
Winter tire
brands comments :
I use 225/45ZR17 Stemperit (German make) Unidirectional
snow tires. They are
excellent in snow but I recommend getting a larger
profile to keep the speedo
closer (50 profile should be about right). The
225 width is about as thin as
you want to get otherwise it can pop off too
easily on the stock rims.
I have also used a Michelin (unknown model)
when I ruined one of the
Stemperit's, it is bi-directional and seems to work
just fine. It is also a
snow tire.
Summer tires I use are the stock
Goodyear Eagles and Micheline Pilot MXX3. Both
great tires for normal daily
use. Goodyear is a tad expensive though. (Stock
sizes as
well).
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 7 Sep 1999 19:39:11 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air Cleaner advice sought
- -----Original Message-----From: Dr.
John A. Tabler
<jtabler@summitmicro.com>
>
When I last changed my air filter ('92 VR4) I noticed that
the
bargain
>filter element had failed. The glue used to hold the
fiber webbing
to
>the black plastic frame had not held. I
replaced it with a
"puralator
>premium", which has two additional
plastic ribs holding the filter
media
>in place. The filter
element cost over $21.
>What are my options for an after market air
cleaner with washable
filter
>media?
You endanger your
engine by using bargain filters, which may pass
large particles into your
engine. This may easily affect how long
the engine lasts, so there is
NO money saved-- quite the opposite...
The stock OEM replacement drop-in
and the K&N drop-in are both made
to much tighter tolerances and provide
good filtering. But the K&N
is reusable, so even though it is close
to twice the price of the
OEM, it is still the more economical choice since
it is a one-time
purchase.
The (recommended) choice that many of us on
the list have made is to
replace the stock airbox entirely with a K&N
FIPK (Filter Injection
Performance Kit, ~$145). It is an oval housing
and element,
installed in about 1/2 hr, which is totally legal and
still
maintains your warranty (it comes with a FED-rated metal
sticker
with chapter & verse). This oil-bath filter needs
infrequent
cleaning (except in VERY dusty environments), and it actually
works
BETTER, the dirtier it gets! It has the added benefit of
letting
much more air into your throttle body, which probably prolongs
the
life of your engine by making it work less hard at high revs to
get
the air it needs. It has close to twice as much surface area as
the
stock filter.
And another "little perk"-- it gives you a
nice healthy boost to
your stock horsepower (you can FEEL the
difference)! When I tested
my Stealth NT on a dyno recently, it showed
a 6 hp gain over stock!
(The bigger engines will surely show more like 12 hp
- K&N claims up
to 15 hp). It feels like the engine had been 'held
back' with the
stock airbox. Even if you're not into "mods", this is a
smart,
simple modification that everyone should make. Highly
Recommended!
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 22:34:45 -0600
From: Von Colborn <vcolborn@xmission.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Just a test
Disregard this junk email used to verify that I am on
the 3000GT listserv
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 07 Sep 1999 23:27:00 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking
I am still trying to find a source of cold
air for my brake cooling system.
I had big scoops under the front
valence, but some agricultural driving
through the grass at Blackhawk Farms
ripped those suckers plumb off. I
could put 'em back on, but the way I drive
I'll probably get off in the
grass again at 95 mph, and there they'll go
again. Besides, my next
project involves putting on the Ground Control
springs, so I'll lose an
inch of ground clearance -- I don't think scoops
will fit under there any
more.
I was snooping around up front, and
wondered:
If I could get those useless fog lights out, would there be enough
room to
get a 2.5 in. air duct through there and around the radiator?
Seems like
there's a lot of tubing and stuff in the way. Any road racers try
this?
I pulled the inside front fender covers off to see if there is any
air
available on either side of the intercoolers, but there's not much
room
there, either.
The best solution seems to be an under-valence
scoop -- it's the most
direct run, and it looks like Mitsu left an access
hole in the valence for
this very purpose.
What are you other
racers using to scoop air?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:03:33 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Floor Jack Recommendations?
Can any of you recommend a particular
brand/model of floor jack for our
cars? Is there anything especially
good or bad I should look for when
selecting one? Thanks.
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
stealth@kiva.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:39:23 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Floor Jack Recommendations?
Get the largest one you can
afford. Generally look to spend ~150.00 for a
decent jack.
I'm
using a 70.00 jack that has ~20" of lift and its working well, but its
not
the greatest jack in the world (on/off type lowering)
Brad
Check
out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dennis Moore
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 9:04 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Floor Jack Recommendations?
Can any of you recommend a particular
brand/model of floor jack for our
cars? Is there anything especially
good or bad I should look for when
selecting one? Thanks.
Dennis
Moore
93 Stealth ES
stealth@kiva.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 07:49:16 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Floor Jack Recommendations?
One thing to consider is the minimum
height. If your car is lowered you may
not be able to get the jack
underneath the chassis, and it may be
problematic even with a stock car
depnding upon how high the jack is at
rest.
I bought a small/medium
sized (2.5 ton) floor jack and at minimum extension
it barely fits beneath my
'94 VR4 with about a 1.5" drop. It will not clear
the front of the car
with the active aero in place and just barely squeaks
past the side moldings
on the side of the car.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Get the largest one you can
afford. Generally look to spend ~150.00 for a
> decent
jack.
>
> I'm using a 70.00 jack that has ~20" of lift and its
working well, but its
> not the greatest jack in the world (on/off type
lowering)
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:55:28 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Floor Jack Recommendations?
This can be remedied by using
2X4's to drive the desired wheels onto. :)
I have cars here all the time
that have ~3" or less of ground clearance that
makes for a tricky jacking
technique.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 1999 9:49 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Floor Jack Recommendations?
One thing to consider is the
minimum height. If your car is lowered you may
not be able to get the
jack underneath the chassis, and it may be
problematic even with a stock car
depnding upon how high the jack is at
rest.
I bought a small/medium
sized (2.5 ton) floor jack and at minimum extension
it barely fits beneath my
'94 VR4 with about a 1.5" drop. It will not clear
the front of the car
with the active aero in place and just barely squeaks
past the side moldings
on the side of the car.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Get the largest one you can
afford. Generally look to spend ~150.00 for a
> decent
jack.
>
> I'm using a 70.00 jack that has ~20" of lift and its
working well, but its
> not the greatest jack in the world (on/off type
lowering)
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 09:12:36 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Free power antenna mast
Hi all,
I have a used power antenna
mast in which two of the joints are
sticky and don't always extend. It
was like that on my car for the last 8
months or so and I finally gave up
trying to make it fully extend. If
anyone wants it, speak up - I'll
mail it to you for free:) BTW, when I
replaced my mast, it took me all
of 10 minutes and I'd never done it before.
I know someone was talking about
removing trunk trim panels and other stuff
a while back - that's definitely
not necessary to replace the mast. (The
motor, OTOH...ugh)
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base,
DOHC)
59,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85
spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 8 Sep 1999 15:44:04 -0400
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Floor
Jack Recommendations?
Got mine at Sears, works great.
90 bucks with 2 jack stands.
Bob
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, September 08, 1999 10:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: Floor Jack
Recommendations?
>Can any of you recommend a particular
brand/model of floor jack for our
>cars? Is there anything
especially good or bad I should look for when
>selecting one?
Thanks.
>
>Dennis Moore
>93 Stealth ES
>stealth@kiva.net
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #279
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