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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #277
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Team3S Digest Sunday,
September 5 1999 Volume 01 : Number
277
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 20:03:45 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports
Paul;
I believe
Barry king discussed this at length in a posting some time back.
The OB11's
are a relatively rare occurence inasmuch as they they seem to
appear in 96 or
later. The 94's and I believe the 95's are hybrids with some
features of
both, and because they are not a true OB1, they are erronesously
assumed to
be OB11's. Barry are you out there? Wash away the mists
of
confusion.
Best
Darc
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: xwing@execpc.com <xwing@execpc.com>; Sirius 3000GT Mail
List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, September 04, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: OBD II year; Atomic
Motorsports
>>> All 94 and ups are OBD II, and there aren't
as many upgrade "computer"
>>> type controllers for them. I don't
think the VPC is available for the
>>> 94+
cars.
>
>Guys-
>Jack T. told me that if I didn't have Ox
sensors both before and after
>my precats, I didn't have OBD-2. This
agrees with my Factory Shop
>Manuals. I have a 1995 VR-4, and I have
not been able to find any
>Ox sensors after my precats. Am I correct
or wrong on this? I've
>been convinced for quite a while that I have
OBD-1. Am I wrong?
>Regards,
>ptg
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 22:41:21 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports
>I believe Barry king
discussed this at length in a posting some time back.
>The OB11's are a
relatively rare occurence inasmuch as they they seem to
>appear in 96 or
later. The 94's and I believe the 95's are hybrids with
some
>features
of both, and because they are not a true OB1, they
are
erronesously
>assumed to be OB11's. Barry are you out there? Wash
away the mists of
>confusion.
>From: Paul T. Golley <ptgolley@ro.com>
>To: xwing@execpc.com <xwing@execpc.com>; Sirius 3000GT Mail
List
><stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date:
Saturday, September 04, 1999 7:10 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Re: OBD II year;
Atomic Motorsports
>>>>> All 94 and ups are OBD II, and there
aren't as many upgrade "computer"
>>>> type controllers for them.
I don't think the VPC is available for the
>>>> 94+
cars.
Well thanks; I guess. I'll assume I have OBD-1 until I
find different.
This is really confusing
matter.
Regards,
ptg
>>Guys-
>>Jack T. told me that if I
didn't have Ox sensors both before and after
>>my precats, I didn't
have OBD-2. This agrees with my Factory Shop
>>Manuals. I
have a 1995 VR-4, and I have not been able to find any
>>Ox sensors
after my precats. Am I correct or wrong on this?
I've
>>been convinced for quite a while that I have OBD-1. Am I
wrong?
>>Regards,
>>ptg
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 20:54:35 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports
Hey Paul;
Don't assume
you have an OB1 (Obiwan) because the first generation OB1's are
not at all
the same as yours. Yours, as a second generation, has a different
ECU plug
harness and pin setup for starters. It was already evolving into
the OB11 by
then. For example, you have to use a different wiring diagram
for the ECU
splice-in with the SAVC-R for a simple example. It is not the
same critter as
the first generation setup. so call it a hybrid.
Hope this
helps
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 23:03:36 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports
As far as I know, your car is
OBDI. My car has o2 sensors before and after
the precats. It also
has an OBDII style diagnnostic connector. However, I
hooked up an OBDII
datalogger and it didn't work on any of the OBDII
protocols. I checked
under the hood and on one of the stickers, it read in
small text "OBDI
Certified."
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul T. Golley <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <xwing@execpc.com>; Sirius 3000GT Mail
List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Saturday, September 04, 1999 9:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: OBD II year; Atomic
Motorsports
> >> All 94 and ups are OBD II, and there aren't
as many upgrade "computer"
> >> type controllers for them. I don't
think the VPC is available for the
> >> 94+ cars.
>
>
Guys-
> Jack T. told me that if I didn't have Ox sensors both before and
after
> my precats, I didn't have OBD-2. This agrees with my Factory
Shop
> Manuals. I have a 1995 VR-4, and I have not been able to find
any
> Ox sensors after my precats. Am I correct or wrong on
this? I've
> been convinced for quite a while that I have
OBD-1. Am I wrong?
> Regards,
> ptg
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 5 Sep 1999 00:51:42 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
A few questions answered, for Spyder owners
Here's my
response:)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Wendell H. Morris <wmorris@mfm.com>
To: Jeff <spydervr4@home.com>
Sent: Friday,
August 27, 1999 1:09 PM
Subject: A few questions
> 1) Does your
top sometimes fail to close all of the way on the first
> try?
Sometimes mine will get to the point where it's supposed to
> close the
rear windows and it just keeps making a whirring noise. If
> I
reverse it for just a second and then re-close it, it almost always
>
works. Any ideas if that's a simple adjustment?
I've never had
problems closing the top. Only problems I've had were
opening it.
Once it was a bad trunk floor sensor (replaced under warranty)
and my most
recent incident seems to have just magically gone away. If your
car is
still low mileage a dealership may still warranty it even if you're
beyond
the time limit. You might consider bleeding your top's
hydraulic
system. For the procedure, buy a Spyder service manual
supplement. Any
dealership should be able to order it. It's
volume 3 of the 3000GT set
(Volume 1 is chassis/mechanical and Volume 2 is
electrical.) For a good
price, call the parts department at www.frankparra.com and tell them you
are
with Club DSM. They can give you good prices on any Mitsu
parts.
> 2) When my top is closed and I run over an uneven surface
(railroad
> tracks for instance), I get a very loud "clacking" noise from
the
> joint at the top of the windshield (right where the top locks to
the
> a-pillar above & in front of my head). Does yours do
this? I noticed
> that there's a small rubber "post" (about 1/4"
diameter) on both the
> left and right sides of the top surface of the
windshield part to
> which the hardtop locks itself. The post on the
passenger side seems
> to be sticking up higher than the one on the
driver's side. I'm
> wondering if maybe this is leaving enough play
that a body twist
> causes the top to bang against the metal surface it
mates with above
> the windshield.
Yeah, I hear a noise similar to
that when I go over railroad tracks. I
attribute it to body flex.
Another thing that fixed a lot of my noise (but
not all of it) is the
headliner. It is held on by some velcro-like
material. Press on
the seam by your head, near the AC temperature sensor
and make sure the
headliner is secure. If it is flopping around (as mine
was when I got
the car) it makes a LOT more noise.
> 3) Does your car leak at all in
hard rain? Mine doesn't seem to make
> a very good seal around the
rear edge of the driver's side window.
I don't know:) In any rain,
my car is under a cover and I drive my
Eclipse:) From car washings,
I've seen it leak a little bit at the windows
but that happened on my old '95
non-Spyder VR4. I haven't noticed any leaks
that are
Spyder-specific.
> 4) Do you hear any loud whistling noises at highway
speeds? I think
> this might be the same bad seal that causes the
leak, but I'm curious
> to know whether I should even expect to be able to
get a solid seal
> around the glass. I don't know anyone else in
this area who has a
> Spyder that I can compare to mine :-( Should I
expect that it could
> be almost as quiet as the coupe on the highway, or
am I dreaming?
I'm pretty sure you're dreaming. I rarely drive the
car with the top up,
but in the few instances that I have, it's been very
noisy compared to my
old coupe. Now don't get me wrong...it's still WAY
better than a ragtop of
any sort, but not as quiet as my old 3000GT.
You might consider replacing
the seal though because I can't imagine it being
THAT expensive and on my
car I'm not aware of any whistling noise.
There is a fair amount of wind
noise but I figure that's because of the
increased coefficient of drag the
Spyder has.
> 5) When my top is
down and I run over an uneven surface I sometimes
> hear a fairly loud
squeaking noise coming from somewhere in the back.
> I'm almost positive
it's the stowed top moving around, but I didn't
> expect it to actually
squeak so loudly. I've noticed that there's
> some worn foam padding
on part of the metal linkage in the top's
> mechanicals, so it looks like
something is rubbing together. What's
> your experience with
this? Do you hear anything when you go over
> bumps that jostle the
car?
I can't hear anything from back there when the top is down.
Maybe it's my
exhaust:) What you might do is open the trunk, lay out a
towel that covers
teh whole trunk area, then close the top until the top is
back there but the
lid isn't closed and lay another towel on top of
that. Then close the top
and go for a drive. If it solves your
problem, then you know it's
definitely rubbing on something. Other than
that I can't think of any other
things to try other than, as I said earlier,
bleed your top's hydraulic
system.
> 6) When my top is closed I
notice that the rubber (or maybe it's
> flexible plastic) strips in the
cabin area around the top edges of the
> hardtop don't line up very
well. They're all twisted and in some
> places even torn a little
near the edges of where the top's linkage
> disappears behind them.
Have you experienced any less-than-optimal
> wear from these cosmetic
plastic strips that are supposed to hide the
> actual seal areas when the
top is up?
Mine seem to be fine, but my car only has 16.9k miles on
it.
> Thanks for any insights you can give me on the above
questions. I
> just got my Spyder and I'm still trying to decide
which problems I
> need to make a stink about with the dealer and which
items I should
> just learn to live with.
>
> --
> ---
Wendell H. Morris
> --- '96 VR4 Spyder
You should go ahead and get
ANY AND ALL problems with the top resolved. I
suspect it will be
expensive to fix, if dealers start refusing warranty
claims. I have the
service manual and nothing is all THAT hard to do, but
if something actually
breaks (i.e. trunk sensor) it's very expensive just to
get parts. For
example, the Spyder specific rear view mirror is nearly
$400. Though
this isn't a very important part and will MOST LIKELY never
need replacing,
it gives you an idea how expensive the custom parts for the
car
are.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 5 Sep 1999 15:05:27 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
B&M "New Volt" ignition amplifier
For me the thing is something new
but it sounds like a much better upgrade
than many other things especially
for our cars. If anyone has already made
some investigations in this product
please let me know. Here some
information from a friend on the message board
and infos I found :
- - longer inductive spark energy delivery
- -
Works on any OBDxx cars
- - output remains at 20 volts / 15 amp (20
peak)
- - Works with multi-coil applications as well as single coil
applications
with one unit
- - It delivers a long lasting spark at higher
energy for 2500 - 3000 usec
which is more
efficient with regard to
a full burn in the combustion chamber
- - uses only three wires to
connect
> This may be of interest to some of you...it's definately a
better
alternative to
> running 3 MSD 6's
http://www.bmracing.com/catalog/import/im99-7.htm
>
B&M is sending me installation instructions and supporting technical
test
results.
>The unit is not a coil but a control unit that allows
the coils to fire at
a higher power
>rating. They claim that the amps
will jump by 2 orders of magnitude.
Installation is
>three wires
(ground, coil pack, and coil harness). This is not a multi
spark
system
>but a longer duration spark at higher wattage (amps x voltage).
They claim
that
>you can open the gap to 0.050-0.060 on the plugs even
with 16 psi of boost.
I will
>let you know more when I get the
literature package.
>The cost is $229 from Summit Racing.
I plan to
get such a thing although the price is something high but I think
it is a
better upgrade than other boxes. Does anybody know of another
simlilar
product from MSD, Jacobs or so ??
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 5 Sep 1999 20:30:42 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: RE: Europe Japanese Twin Turbo Club
Hello,
Never saw my post on the list, so.....
The first Europe_Japanese Twin
Turbo Event will be hold
in MUNICH, Germany, starting on Tuesday, and until
the next
Weekend.
There will be a LOT of 300ZXTT, but as well
Supras TT.
Bring your Mitsu/stealth.
For additional details, e-mail me
(fast)
Best regards
Henri
300 ZXTT/Stealth RT/TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Sep 1999 00:06:44 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Pictures of 93'3000GT prospectus (somewhat off-topic)
Off topic (just
FYI) :
I just added the scans of the 16-page 93'3000GT prospectus from
Europe ! If
interested, check them out under my homepage :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
WARNING
: There is one pic per page with sizes between 100-220kb. This may
take some
time to download with a standard modem.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 6 Sep 1999 01:13:01 -0400
From: Jim <jimc@pathwaynet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question from a newbie
Hi everyone! I am looking at purchasing a
92 3000gt VR4 and was wondering
what I should look for or watch out for when
I go to test drive it? I love
the car and can't wait to have one of my own. I
would appreciate any help
and suggestions you guys could offer.
Thanks!
~Jim Crook
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page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #277
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