--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #276
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest Saturday,
September 4 1999 Volume 01 : Number
276
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 03 Sep 1999 16:18:27 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Possible fuel cut
Michael,
Michael Dorsey
wrote:
> pulling strong again. I have hit the rev limiter in the
past, and what's
> happening now is not as strong of a jerk as the rev
limiter was. It throws
> me forward in the seat, but my teeth never
make it to the steering wheel,
> thank god. I've got a RPS Turbo
Carbon clutch, about 8K on it [snip]
It still sounds like you're hitting
fuel cut. You don't have to actually
"bite into" your steering wheel
when fuel cut happens. It is just a
sudden jerk as if your engine has
been temporarily shut off (which is
essentially what happens). I have
experienced fuel cut before, but I
never tasted my steering wheel as a result
of it.
I can only think of a couple possibilities: 1) Your
DSBC is having
major problems and you are getting way more boost than 1.0
bar,
possibly as a result of the actuators not working and the boost
gauge
also not working. However, the coincidence of these two
problems
seems unlikely. 2) One or more of your plugs are
bad. I really hope
they are the right NGKs and not some other
brand. If they are bad,
regapping would not have helped. 3)
Your ECU has gone crazy.
There's one other possibility, but the idea
comes from a non-3S car.
A friend of mine drives a 97 Viper GTS, and at his
first trip to the
dragstrip he experienced something very much like fuel cut
only when
his car went under heavy acceleration. It was more like a
rev-limiter
which varied between 3.5k and 5k rpms. We ran through a
bunch of
narrow-it-down techniques in the parking lot (I was sweating
buckets
tinkering around that monstrous engine), and my best diagnosis
was
that it had something to do with his knock and/or
crank-position
sensor. Somehow my guess turned out to be pretty close
to the truth
when he brought the car to the shop. It turned out that
one of the
wires to the sensor (I can't remember which one) was
incorrectly
routed next to his tranny, so under heavy acceleration the tranny
would
shake so much that this wire harness would throw off the sensor.
I
was feeling pretty good about myself after making that call. :)
So if
push comes to shove you might want to check out these
sensors.
Have a nice weekend,
- --Errin "tames the vipers,
LOL" Humphrey ;)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Sep 1999 00:13:13 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: flywheel minimum width & ball joint question
I'm trying to
find the minimum flywheel width before you need to replace
it. I know
the clutch has been changed several times and the flywheel
is probably near
the low limit. I don't want the shop to decide what is
acceptable for
me. Also, what is a double cut?
Second question for all of you that
have replaced half shafts or clutch
/ transaxle and tore a ball joint
boot. Can you repair them. I tried
TRW and MOOG for a replacement
balljoint to no avail. Mitsu only sells
the lower arm as an assembly
(ie you can't buy just the balljoint). I'd
hate to fork over ~$250 to
buy a new lower arm when all I really nead is
the
balljoint.
Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 3 Sep 1999 22:34:03 -0600
From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Breaking in a new Borla exhaust
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEF65C.6CC61EA0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Newbie here,
Proud to say I just
purchased a 96 RTTT and have installed a K&N kit =
and Borla
exhaust. I have read on the 240sx list (traded it in) that it =
is
possible to break in the exhaust for different results in tone and
=
volume. Is there any truth to this and if so, what are my
options?
Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEF65C.6CC61EA0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Newbie
here,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>
Proud to say I just purchased a 96 RTTT and have =
installed a
K&N kit and Borla exhaust. I have read on the =
240sx
list=20
(traded it in) that it is possible to break in the exhaust for
different =
results=20
in tone and volume. Is there any truth to
this and if so, what are
=
my=20
options?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Cory
Eskelsen</DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEF65C.6CC61EA0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 00:46:43 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranmission question and more
Ok my mom was driving IN
Philadelphia today and she said she was hearing a
grinding noise when she
shifted from 1st to 2nd. Well I checked it out and
I think the syncro
is the problem but I am not sure. If the car is below or
at 3000 rpms
it will go right into gear without noticeable grinding. Also
it seems
if you rev match it will not grind. It also will grind if you
down
shift if the rpms are above 3000 rpms. It also has redline fluid
in it.
Now for the questions the car is a 95 spyder which means the 5 year
power
train should still cover it. The problem is several things:
1.
the guy who had it before has a HKS EVC IV in the car and I know I
will hafta
revert the car back to stock before it goes to the Mitsubishi
dealer. I
figured I could leave everything intact because the guy have the
piece under
the battery tray where it is hidden. The problem is he used
blue hosing
so I will hafta take all the hosing off and put it back together
but my
question is, is there any hosing you take off and not put back on
when
you switch from stock to boost controller? Anyone tell me how to
go
about uninstalling it?
2. Does the power train work have to be done at
a Mitsubishi dealer? I
assume this is a yes.
3. The car had a new
dual Friction clutch put in, will they hassle
about that? Also I don't
know enough about transmission but if they were to
cover it, does the new
transmission include a clutch or is that a separate
entity?
4. Are there any syncro kits still available? I know some people
had
some sets.
5. Kormex? Still working on them, not finished
right?
Well that's it for now. Thank you for any and all
assistance.
Josh
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 04 Sep 1999 09:40:16 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions about new AVC-R (was: AVC-R installation tips)
The new
AVC-R sounds great! For those of us with the previous
generation
SAVC-R, would you recommend upgrading? I wonder how
much of the
existing wiring could be reused (vs. ripping
everything out and installing
all of the wiring that comes
with the new unit)... What are street
prices? And is the boost
solonoid now quieter (doesn't sound like it
from your description)?
Thanx!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 00:38:59 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranmission question and more
Just like with getting sick, when
having car trouble on a 3-day
holiday weekend, you're kind of out of
luck... Lots of us on the list
(like myself) are almost out the door
until Tuesday. But maybe I can
lay out some quick
thoughts...
A. If you're grinding a lot, don't drive the car unless
you
absolutely have to.
B. Depending on the dealer you go to, they
can either be good guys
and honor the warranty, or be bad guys and use the
legal cop-out that
any mods voids the warranty. None of us can know
that... You've got
a better chance of them not noticing the EVC IV
without the blue
hoses, but they won't see the clutch until they open it
up. Can't
help with the uninstall...
C. Getting power train
work done elsewhere will most definitely void
any warranty you've got left,
if you can even find someone local who
knows how to work on our cars...
Tranny and clutch are separate
problems, and a rebuild will not include the
clutch. But you can
understand how they might easily blame a tranny
problem on the clutch,
if they're sticklers...
D. JackT is the main
Getrag guru, so maybe you'll hear from him...
I hope someone else is
around who can add to this... Good luck. And
if it's possible,
enjoy the weekend.
Best,
Forrest
- -----Original
Message-----From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
>Ok
my mom was driving IN Philadelphia today and she said she was
hearing
a
>grinding noise when she shifted from 1st to 2nd. Well I checked
it
out and
>I think the syncro is the problem but I am not sure.
If the car is
below or
>at 3000 rpms it will go right into gear without
noticeable grinding.
Also
>it seems if you rev match it will not
grind. It also will grind if
you down
>shift if the rpms are
above 3000 rpms. It also has redline fluid in
it.
>Now for the
questions the car is a 95 spyder which means the 5 year
power
>train
should still cover it. The problem is several things:
>1. the guy
who had it before has a HKS EVC IV in the car and I know I
>will hafta
revert the car back to stock before it goes to
the
Mitsubishi
>dealer. I figured I could leave everything intact
because the guy
have the
>piece under the battery tray where it is
hidden. The problem is he
used
>blue hosing so I will hafta take
all the hosing off and put it back
together
>but my question is, is
there any hosing you take off and not put back
on
>when you
switch from stock to boost controller? Anyone tell me how
to
go
>about uninstalling it?
>2. Does the power train work have to be
done at a Mitsubishi dealer?
I
>assume this is a yes.
>3. The car
had a new dual Friction clutch put in, will they hassle
>about that?
Also I don't know enough about transmission but if they
were to
>cover
it, does the new transmission include a clutch or is that
a
separate
>entity?
>4. Are there any syncro kits still
available? I know some people had
>some sets.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 01:02:21 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Breaking in a new Borla exhaust
- -----Original Message-----From:
CEskelsen <cesk@redrock.net>
Newbie
here,
Proud to say I just purchased a 96 RTTT and have
installed a K&N
kit and Borla exhaust. I have read on the 240sx
list (traded it in)
that it is possible to break in the exhaust for different
results in
tone and volume. Is there any truth to this and if so, what
are my
options?
- ------------------------
Hey, Cory,
First
of all, congrats! You've got yourself a great car! (And BTW,
I'm
an ex- 240sx-er too...).
Once the exhaust is in place, most of the change
in sound is from
choice of tips. And yes, a good pro will be able to
help you "tune"
it for the sound you want, even though that's usually done
when the
exhaust is going in. Hopefully there will be some folks around
on
this holiday weekend to chime in with chapter and verse (but I
wouldn't
plan on it 'til next week)... The performance shops will
probably be
your best bet for recommendations if you're in a hurry...
We really don't
cover (or encourage) this kind of stuff much on our
'technical' list, but a
few of the guys have 'throatier' systems, and
hopefully, they will answer you
privately. Even though this is
borderline "off-topic" ON the list, it's
probably not a bad thing to
cover in our upcoming FAQ, so please make sure
you share your results
with Gavin. Having a Stealth, I like the
'sleeper' quality of making
as little noise as possible while I 'eat' the
competition, but to each
his own. :-) Good luck. And many
happy miles.
Enjoy the
weekend.
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 11:09:38 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about new AVC-R
Jim, good to hear from you again
:-)
Regarding the AVC-R I ordered one for a customer of mine, although
the thing
never showed up yet and the customer did not wanted to wait (many
thanks to
the dealer !). I therefore may check it out and install it in my
car as I
already have spliced into many of the wires.
I currently
don't know where to position the head untit but shouldn't be a
problem if you
only have one such unit. It has more benefits than the one
you are currently
running and the major one is the rpm settings. The
solenoid is for 99% the
same one :) For my understanding it's more difficult
to set up and you'll
only know where the best is with doing several G-Tech
runs. I personally like
the recording feature so you can see how the boost
curve and IDC% looks
like.
For the pricing, you're somewhat late as the street prices just cam
up
again. The lowest was $399 and now it's around $450-$499 but maybe
with
speaking to the guys you should get it for around $420 or so. I maybe
know
one that is interested in yours if you don't wanna use it for the Honda
van.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>The new AVC-R sounds great!
For those of us with the previous
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 08:16:37 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranmission question and more
1. << figured I could leave
everything intact because the guy have the
piece under the battery tray where
it is hidden.>>
The problem is, if your tranny
needs to be removed, they have to take the
battery tray out. So,
they'll find it!
<<2. Does the
power train work have to be done at a Mitsubishi dealer?
I
assume
this is a yes.>>
Definitely.
<<3. The car had a
new dual Friction clutch put in, will they hassle
about that? Also I
don't know enough about transmission but if they were to
cover it, does the
new transmission include a clutch or is that a
separate
entity?>>
I'm not sure if they will
hassle you about it, but legally, I do no think
they can because there are
so many documented problems with these synchros in
cars that do not have the
dual friction clutch. In order for them to "void"
your warranty, they
will have to show that the clutch is not acceptable as a
replacement AND
that the clutch was a substantial factor in causing the
damage, i.e., the
damage would not have occurred "but for" the clutch. I
think they will
be hard pressed to make that argument. However, that won't
stop them
from trying. As for your second question, the clutch, including
the
plate, release bearing and pressure plate, are all separate. Also, I saw
an earlier post where someone was asking about cutting the flywheel and what
it's minimum thickness is. I believe the manufacturer recommends
AGAINST
cutting the flywheel for good reason. These cars produce a
massive amount of
HP, even stock. I'd hate to cut that flywheel close
to spec and have it come
apart on me on high acceleration. Just
MHO.
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 08:02:42 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about new AVC-R (was: AVC-R installation tips)
Hi
Jim;
The plumbing is the same. I believe the wiring is the same as well.
Contact
Ken M. or Scott Cowan and they should be able to tell you exactly
what the
harness looks like. My cyberspace interaction with Scott on this
unit is
that the differences are in the controls, and the differences there
are
substantial. I believe Scott got in on a group purchase for $400 which is
a
great price, given I paid more for mine on a group purchase less than a
year
ago, and that price was good at the time (less than Blitz at Chen's
then
blow out price). With any luck if you buy, all you'd have to do is
plug in
the control and voila! Then you get to play at being a rocket
scientist to
understand how to set it.
Best
Darc
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
To:
Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc:
Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, September 04, 1999 12:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Questions about new
AVC-R (was: AVC-R installation tips)
>
>The new AVC-R sounds
great! For those of us with the previous
>generation SAVC-R, would
you recommend upgrading? I wonder how
>much of the existing wiring
could be reused (vs. ripping
>everything out and installing all of the
wiring that comes
>with the new unit)... What are street
prices? And is the boost
>solonoid now quieter (doesn't sound like
it from your description)?
>Thanx!
>
>--
>Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
>matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R
(1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
>Metal
Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @
113.9 mph
>1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 4 Sep 1999 21:06:21 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports
>> All 94 and ups are OBD II, and
there aren't as many upgrade "computer"
>> type controllers for them. I
don't think the VPC is available for the
>> 94+
cars.
Guys-
Jack T. told me that if I didn't have Ox sensors both
before and after
my precats, I didn't have OBD-2. This agrees with my
Factory Shop
Manuals. I have a 1995 VR-4, and I have not been able to
find any
Ox sensors after my precats. Am I correct or wrong on
this? I've
been convinced for quite a while that I have OBD-1.
Am I wrong?
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #276
****************************
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