--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #275
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest        Friday, September 3 1999        Volume 01 : Number 275

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 16:54:11 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: Zoink! Oops...FAQ Stuff...please read before sending questions

Forgot a little something. Send your answers with your questions :).

People who have already sent questions I have not encountered a question I
could not answer so don't worry.

Gavin

p.s. should we do a downloadable file or web page?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Sep 1999 23:07:51 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Zoink! Oops...FAQ Stuff...please read before sending questions

> Forgot a little something. Send your answers with your questions :).

I think it's good to gather the questions first and to provide the answers
sooner (you'll get my list in a minute, hehe). I'm sure someone will find much
better words than me to describe something but I wil las good as I can. But hey
this takes some time and I think even some answers are discussable :)

For the downloadable file, I'd say to give them this oppurtunity but a linked
page that allows you to read the contents and lick onto the question to jump
down the list for the answer is also good (like one of the many f-body FAQ)

Just my FF 0.20
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 19:20:02 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need Help with Super AVC-R Plumbing

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I assume that pressure fed to the w.g. actuator tends to open the

w.g. causing exhaust to bypass the turbine, thus reducing boost.=20

Then to increase boost, the solenoid vents the pressure to an

ambient air passage in the inlet.

As I see it with the AEPXi system, the pressurized air should go

to the "NO" port of the solenoid; the "COM" port should be routed

to both w.g. actuators; and the "NC" port should vent to ambient.

Then energizing the solenoid will facilitate an increase in boost.

Now to my dilemma: The OEM system routes the pressurized

air to the w.g. actuators through an orifice in the "H" fitting.=20

This makes sense because it impedes the flow of pressurized=20

air to the w.g. actuators when the actuator is energized (venting).

However there are two places in the confusing APEXi manual

that say the supplied orifice should be installed in the "NC"

port, which vents to the atmosphere. This I don=92t understand.

If the pressurized air supply has enough flow capacity, venting

to the atmosphere through an orifice will not reduce the pressure

to the w.g. actuators, resulting in no boost increase.

Can someone help me with this? If anyone knows the answer to

my questions but doesn=92t want to type an e-mail response,

please post your phone number, and I=92ll call you for your

advice. Thanks in advance for any help.

Regards,

ptg

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>
<P>I assume that pressure fed to the w.g. actuator tends to open the</P>
<P>w.g. causing exhaust to bypass the turbine, thus reducing boost. </P>
<P>Then to increase boost, the solenoid vents the pressure to an</P>
<P>ambient air passage in the inlet.</P>
<P>As I see it with the AEPXi system, the pressurized air should go</P>
<P>to the "NO" port of the solenoid; the "COM" port =
should=20
be routed</P>
<P>to both w.g. actuators; and the "NC" port should vent to=20
ambient.</P>
<P>Then energizing the solenoid will facilitate an increase in =
boost.</P>
<P>Now to my dilemma: The OEM system routes the pressurized</P>
<P>air to the w.g. actuators through an orifice in the "H" =
fitting.=20
</P>
<P>This makes sense because it impedes the flow of pressurized </P>
<P>air to the w.g. actuators when the actuator is energized =
(venting).</P>
<P>However there are two places in the confusing APEXi manual</P>
<P>that say the supplied orifice should be installed in the =
"NC"</P>
<P>port, which vents to the atmosphere. This I don’t =
understand.</P>
<P>If the pressurized air supply has enough flow capacity, venting</P>
<P>to the atmosphere through an orifice will not reduce the pressure</P>
<P>to the w.g. actuators, resulting in no boost increase.</P>
<P>Can someone help me with this? If anyone knows the answer to</P>
<P>my questions but doesn’t want to type an e-mail response,</P>
<P>please post your phone number, and I’ll call you for your</P>
<P>advice. Thanks in advance for any help.</P>
<P>Regards,</P>
<P><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>ptg</FONT></P></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 21:23:25 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: i think i broke it

i have a 92 r/t non turbo. i think i screwed up somewhere big time. i
decided to go ahead and follow the combustion chamber cleaning procedure
listed on dsm.org at http://www.outreach.psu.edu/users/res122/DSM/ to clean
out my engine. i followed everything pretty much to the T. except i let it
soak for about 12 hours. replaced the plugs with autolite double platinum,
gapped at .045 (sorry, can't afford NGKs right now.) after a minute of
trying to start, it finally fired up. When i saw smoke, i thought it was the
extra cleaner burning off. But it didn't go away. now i've got this very
thick white smoke pouring out when ever i give it gas. if i start it up and
idle, it doesn't happen till i let it sit for a while, or increase RPMs, but
after i let off, it continues heavily even at idle. seems like it happens
only when the exhaust pipes are warmed up. i'm hoping it's just extra
cleaner in the exhaust manifold burning off, but is there any way to tell if
it is in fact coolant? Any kind of smell in the exhuast? so far, it just
smells like regular exhaust, with a pungeant chemical smell, like the
cleaner.

if i have a blown head gasket, when/how did it happen? maybe there was a
leak in it hidden by carbon deposits that opened up when i cleaned (is that
even possible)? could it in any way be caused by the spark plug gap i'm
running.

i know alot of the cleaner was pushed out of the exhaust ports into the
exhaust manifold/downpipes, i'm hoping it's that. aargh. i've let it idle
for almost 10 minutes, even took it out for a short run, but it's still
smoking. any way to check if it's a blown head gasket, other then taking it
to a shop? i don't even want to drive it anywhere right now, i'd be too
embarassed by this big white cloud behind me. i don't think anyone on the
road would appreciate it either..

am i the first 3SIer to try this procedure?

Omar
92 r/t

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 23:29:29 -0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

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I think I'm running into fuel cut, and would like know exactly how it feels
and the after effects. When running WOT with approx 1.00 bar of boost, the
car will sometimes quit accelerating (almost feels like it slipped out of
gear). I always immiediately let off the gas, and the car recovers like
nothing happened. Can anyone give me some more insight on this.

For some history on the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a month
ago and a dealer in OH had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 valves
replaced. I don't have a lot of faith in their work for various reasons.
From what I understand, fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it possible that
they did something wrong that would cause the engine create more knock at
lower boost (1 bar). I also haven't regapped the plugs since they put new
ones in, if that makes a difference. Also, the car has never seen more that
1.02 bars of boost and I rarely let it get up to 1 bar.

Michael
98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N FIPK, Borla cat-back

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">

<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2516.1900" name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D692501703-03091999>I =
think I'm running=20
into fuel cut, and would like know exactly how it feels and the after=20
effects.  When running WOT with approx 1.00 bar of boost, the car =
will=20
sometimes quit accelerating (almost feels like it slipped out of =
gear).  I=20
always immiediately let off the gas, and the car recovers like nothing=20
happened.  Can anyone give me some more insight on=20
this.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D692501703-03091999>For =
some history on=20
the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a month ago and a dealer =
in OH=20
had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 valves replaced.  I don't =
have a=20
lot of faith in their work for various reasons.  From what I =
understand,=20
fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it possible that they did something =
wrong that=20
would cause the engine create more knock at lower boost (1 bar).  I =
also=20
haven't regapped the plugs since they put new ones in, if that makes a=20
difference.  Also, the car has never seen more that 1.02 bars of =
boost and=20
I rarely let it get up to 1 bar.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D692501703-03091999>Michael</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D692501703-03091999>98 =
VR4, Blitz DSBC,=20
K&N FIPK, Borla cat-back</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Sep 1999 21:17:24 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

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Hey Michael;

Fuel cut should about put you throught the window when it occurs, or at =
the least have you eat your steering wheel. Something else is up here in =
my estimate, and a bit more detailed information would help those who =
want to try and daignose it. I don't know about others, but imagining is =
difficult for me, so you have to really spell it out.

Best

Darc
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Michael <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Thursday, September 02, 1999 8:29 PM
    Subject: Team3S: Possible fuel cut
   =20
   =20
    I think I'm running into fuel cut, and would like know exactly how =
it feels and the after effects. When running WOT with approx 1.00 bar =
of boost, the car will sometimes quit accelerating (almost feels like it =
slipped out of gear). I always immiediately let off the gas, and the =
car recovers like nothing happened. Can anyone give me some more =
insight on this.
    =20
    For some history on the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a =
month ago and a dealer in OH had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 =
valves replaced. I don't have a lot of faith in their work for various =
reasons. From what I understand, fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it =
possible that they did something wrong that would cause the engine =
create more knock at lower boost (1 bar). I also haven't regapped the =
plugs since they put new ones in, if that makes a difference. Also, the =
car has never seen more that 1.02 bars of boost and I rarely let it get =
up to 1 bar.
    =20
    =20
    Michael
    98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N FIPK, Borla cat-back

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hey Michael;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Fuel cut should about put you throught the window =
when it=20
occurs, or at the least have you eat your steering wheel. Something else =
is up=20
here in my estimate, and a bit more detailed information  would =
help those=20
who want to try and daignose it. I don't know about others, but =
imagining is=20
difficult for me, so you have to really spell it out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Best</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Darc</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Michael <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com">mdorsey@mindspring.com</A>><BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
    <<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Thursday, September 02, 1999 8:29 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Team3S: =
Possible=20
    fuel cut<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D692501703-03091999>I =
think I'm=20
    running into fuel cut, and would like know exactly how it feels and =
the=20
    after effects.  When running WOT with approx 1.00 bar of boost, =
the car=20
    will sometimes quit accelerating (almost feels like it slipped out =
of=20
    gear).  I always immiediately let off the gas, and the car =
recovers=20
    like nothing happened.  Can anyone give me some more insight on =

    this.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
    class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN =
class=3D692501703-03091999>For some history=20
    on the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a month ago and a =
dealer=20
    in OH had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 valves replaced.  =
I don't=20
    have a lot of faith in their work for various reasons.  From =
what I=20
    understand, fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it possible that they =
did=20
    something wrong that would cause the engine create more knock at =
lower boost=20
    (1 bar).  I also haven't regapped the plugs since they put new =
ones in,=20
    if that makes a difference.  Also, the car has never seen more =
that=20
    1.02 bars of boost and I rarely let it get up to 1 =
bar.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
    class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
    class=3D692501703-03091999></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN=20
    class=3D692501703-03091999>Michael</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><SPAN class=3D692501703-03091999>98 =
VR4, Blitz=20
    DSBC, K&N FIPK, Borla=20
cat-back</SPAN></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 07:25:29 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: OBD II year; Atomic Motorsports

94 is different connectors, slightly different computer than 91-93 but is
NOT OBD II. These can be made to work with VPC, GCC, for
larger injectors/to get rid of fuelcut. I know how to do it, as does Mike

Mahaffey of Altered Atmospheres.

BTW, since my buddy Paul (owns a Supra TT, and a hardware store
with work space :) and I keep spending way too much money on car
stuff, we finally decided to form a "Company" so as to get parts at
a discount mainly for our own habits. However, if anybody wants to
buy parts and the knowledge I have to go with them, feel free to drop
me a line. We will have a website    http://www.atomicmotorsports.com
(will be our first website effort so feel free to laugh).
No attempts to take over the world of performance cars, probably can't
get stuff cheaper than most other places--just for fun and no BS...if a
few
people of high quality--who take their fun seriously--want to deal with us

that is fine. Just think of all the cool logos that could go with the
name...hehehheh!

Jack Tertadian    1993 3000GT VR4   10.81 @ 128.44mph
                          1994 3000GT VR4   12.386, 114.40mph stock
exhaust minus cats, no NOS

Paul Martens      1994 Supra TT         12.1 @ 119 mph stock
turbos...soon to get HKS
                                                          twin ballbearing
upgrade, ETC!

Atomic Motorsports
"Upgrade your vehicle--with Atomic Power!"    ;)

Michael Booker wrote:

> All 94 and ups are OBD II, and there aren't as many upgrade "computer"
> type controllers for them. I don't think the VPC is available for the
> 94+ cars.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 07:49:40 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

Michael...

Darcy is correct, fuel cut is a slamming effect. It happens under the
conditions you describe, but entirely different symptoms.

Have you regapped your plugs to .034"?

BTW...Admin notice...Please turn off your HTML when posting to the list.
Thanks.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael [mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 1999 8:29 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

I think I'm running into fuel cut, and would like know exactly how it feels
and the after effects. When running WOT with approx 1.00 bar of boost, the
car will sometimes quit accelerating (almost feels like it slipped out of
gear). I always immiediately let off the gas, and the car recovers like
nothing happened. Can anyone give me some more insight on this.

For some history on the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a month
ago and a dealer in OH had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 valves
replaced. I don't have a lot of faith in their work for various reasons.
From what I understand, fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it possible that
they did something wrong that would cause the engine create more knock at
lower boost (1 bar). I also haven't regapped the plugs since they put new
ones in, if that makes a difference. Also, the car has never seen more that
1.02 bars of boost and I rarely let it get up to 1 bar.

Michael
98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N FIPK, Borla cat-back
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 08:38:00 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

Michael;

Have you arrived a cybersolution to the symptoms (via private posts?) I was
hoping you'd get back to the group with more succinct info (ie at which
point in your WOT does the symptom appear?) That is, is this occurring at
3500, 4000, 5000 rpm, or at redline+ (if you take it to redline). As an
addendum to this latter point, recent postings here seem to indicate that
redline is counterproductive and that shifting at 5500rpm is the most
productive power area.

I have never run into the rev limiter but perhaps this is something to
consider if you are running high r's. Can someone give a descriptive
encapsulation of hitting the rev limiter??

It also may be, as already noted, that your clutch cannot hold at the
increased HP. If this is the case, then you've likely done some major
launches in the past and it's marginally holding now until you put your foot
into it. I may be running into that myself and am in the process of
determining if I need to put in my new RPS sooner, rather than at my
leisure.

Hope some of our more esteemed comrades will chip in their 25 cents worth so
that you have a solid feeling of what is up.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 17:43:57 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

As already properly described by Darc and Chris this is not fuel cut.

For me this sounds more like the car has hesitates due to misfires or even
detonation. But I also was immediatly thinking of a slipping clutch. As your
car is a 98 I doubt the clutch is already slipping and I'd more say that
this is an engine problem.

As the valves and pistons once kissed each other the pistons as well as
their rings and the rod bearings (I meant the stuff between the rod and
piston ;-) I doubt the rods or even the crank must be replaced but a good
inspection should be done for sure.

Now the wrost I can think off is that they only made the heads and the
pistons are slapping. This causes early knock and therefore a retarded
timing that is getting even worse with higher rpm. But then I'd think you'd
not be able to boost up to 1.0bars anyway.

My advice is the same as the others, regap the plugs (new ones if they did
not changed them) to 0.034" as this is what we recomend for cars running at
15psi. I'm pretty sure they are at 0.045 what is definitely too much and
therefore my be the cause for the problem. Also I'd pull the IC rubber hoses
going into the y-pipe and check the stuff for any larger oil deposits. This
would be a good sign of too much oil in the intake tract and this causes the
octane to be lowered. This finally results in earlier detonation.

BTW, as you got the car back I assume you runned it for about 700mls with
higher boost than 0.5 bars. This is recommended by Mitsu and they told me
several times to watch this. They even wanted to disconnect the boost
solenoid to limit boost to 0.5 bars but they gave up when they noticed the
Blitz box ;-)

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

    For some history on the car, the timing belt tensioner broke about a
month ago and a dealer in OH had the heads machined and 20 of the 24 valves
replaced. I don't have a lot of faith in their work for various reasons.
From what I understand, fuel cut is cause by knock, so is it possible that
they did something wrong that would cause the engine create more knock at
lower boost (1 bar). I also haven't regapped the plugs since they put new
ones in, if that makes a difference. Also, the car has never seen more that
1.02 bars of boost and I rarely let it get up to 1 bar.

    Michael
    98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N FIPK, Borla cat-back

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 08:51:53 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help with Super AVC-R Plumbing

Hi Paul,

The confusing part is that the manual lists several diagrams for different
cars. The diagram you want to follow is the one connecting to the "NO" port.
Your first description is correct and that is what you want to do.

This is what I did:
1) Replace the "H" connector with a supplied tee
2) Connect both hoses from wastegate actuators to tee
3) Connect hose from tee to the "COM" port on the solenoid
4) Connect hose from Y-pipe fitting to "NO" port on the solenoid
5) Connect the extra hose from the "H" fitting back to the stock boost solenoid
6) Cap the other fitting on the stock boost solenoid.

A great place to mount the solenoid is too zip tie it to the washer fluid bottle
fill neck, right under the Y-pipe fitting. This will keep the hoses very
short. Use the rubber mounting block and get some 8.5 inch tie wraps from Home
Depot.

Also, the fittings supplied with the Apexi solenoid are way too big for our
hoses. You can use the reducers for the installation. ** Or ** :) you can
replace the supplied brass hose barbs with 1/8 npt x 1/8 or 1/8 npt x 3/16 and
not have to use the reducers. I found the brass hose barbs at a local hardware
store. You may also want to get a couple of 1/8 npt female x 1/8 npt female 90
degree fittings so you can point the barbs toward their destination and avoid
bends and excessive length in the hoses.

Feel free to call me at the number below if you like. I've been meaning to post
an installation tips, maybe I'll get to it today.

Good luck,
Ken

> "Paul T. Golley" wrote:
> I assume that pressure fed to the w.g. actuator tends to open the
> w.g. causing exhaust to bypass the turbine, thus reducing boost.
> Then to increase boost, the solenoid vents the pressure to an
> ambient air passage in the inlet.
> As I see it with the AEPXi system, the pressurized air should go
> to the "NO" port of the solenoid; the "COM" port should be routed
> to both w.g. actuators; and the "NC" port should vent to ambient.
> Then energizing the solenoid will facilitate an increase in boost.
> Now to my dilemma: The OEM system routes the pressurized
> air to the w.g. actuators through an orifice in the "H" fitting.
> This makes sense because it impedes the flow of pressurized
> air to the w.g. actuators when the actuator is energized (venting).
> However there are two places in the confusing APEXi manual
> that say the supplied orifice should be installed in the "NC"
> port, which vents to the atmosphere. This I don’t understand.
> If the pressurized air supply has enough flow capacity, venting
> to the atmosphere through an orifice will not reduce the pressure
> to the w.g. actuators, resulting in no boost increase.
> Can someone help me with this? If anyone knows the answer to
> my questions but doesn’t want to type an e-mail response,
> please post your phone number, and I’ll call you for your
> advice. Thanks in advance for any help.
> Regards,

- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 12:53:31 -0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

I haven't solved the problem yet. Regapped the plugs to .035 and reset the
ECU last night. Tried a couple more runs. Under WOT, with the boost at
1.00 bar. the problem happened at precisely 4500 RPM every time (3rd gear).
I kept the throttle down once, and the car recovered immediately and started
pulling strong again. I have hit the rev limiter in the past, and what's
happening now is not as strong of a jerk as the rev limiter was. It throws
me forward in the seat, but my teeth never make it to the steering wheel,
thank god. I've got a RPS Turbo Carbon clutch, about 8K on it, so it should
be ok.

Michael
98VR4, DSBC, FIPK, Exhaust

When I got the car back, I asked the dealer if I should take it easy for a
while, and they said not to worry about it. So I've been pushing it since I
got it back.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 09:59:22 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

Michael...

Nope, the rev limiter doesn't hit until 7200 rpm and isn't smooth (also not
the same SLAM as fuel cut). Almost sounds like the "bogging" I was getting
with my first set of ECU mods (running too rich), but shouldn't be the case
with a stock ECU, stock injectors, etc.

Can you have someone run a diagnostic on your air/fuel mix?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael [mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
Sent: Friday, September 03, 1999 9:54 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

I haven't solved the problem yet. Regapped the plugs to .035 and reset the
ECU last night. Tried a couple more runs. Under WOT, with the boost at
1.00 bar. the problem happened at precisely 4500 RPM every time (3rd gear).
I kept the throttle down once, and the car recovered immediately and started
pulling strong again. I have hit the rev limiter in the past, and what's
happening now is not as strong of a jerk as the rev limiter was. It throws
me forward in the seat, but my teeth never make it to the steering wheel,
thank god. I've got a RPS Turbo Carbon clutch, about 8K on it, so it should
be ok.

Michael
98VR4, DSBC, FIPK, Exhaust
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:02:14 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies (ADMINS CHECK PLEASE)

ADMINS: over the month or so I'll probably be posting questions for the FAQ.
It would preferable when I request information that it is done on the list
so as to avoid many people doing the same work and everyone can check
answers. If this is a problem, please let me know. Just act like I'm a
newbie :).

Wheel/Tire junkies: What are the maximum size tires for the following wheels
(correct me if I'm wrong)

18" : 285/30 w/rub, 275/35 w/possible rub, 265/40 safe bet.
17VR4: 265/35, 255/40 safe bet.
17" NT: ???
16" NT: ???
15" NT: ???

and of course any other commentary....hopefully this will be the last time
you have to type it :).

Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:03:54 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel junkies add-on

Please include winter tire size and manufacture recommendation for all those
sizes as well.

Thanks,
Gavin
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 10:21:43 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies

> 16" NT: ???

225/55 - stock
245/50 - no rub, no problems, stock speedo, improved handling
bigger - doubt it, but you *might* be able to get 255's on there

- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC)                 59,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
- -------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 10:44:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:44:22 -0400

Should I be able to blow air through the stock BOV when it's removed from
the car? I can, and from what little I know, I don't think I should be able
to.

Michael

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 11:04:55 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: AVC-R installation tips

I have recently received and installed the new Apexi AVC-R. I thought I'd pass
along some tips for those of you who might be doing this yourself. Most of
these ideas I've 'gleaned' after the install, so not all have actually been
performed. These tips are in addition to the installation instructions. I
won't be repeating the manual, just adding my suggestions.

The Apexi AVC-R is a beautiful piece of electronics and the kit is fairly
complete and well packaged. However, before you begin the installation, you may
want to pick up the following items:

PARTS LIST
=========
     8.5" or longer tie wraps
     2 brass hose barbs, 1/8 npt x 1/8, OR 1/8 npt x 3/16
     2 brass 90 degree elbows, 1/8 npt female x 1/8 npt female
     Teflon tape
     2 small 1/2" or 3/4" self tapping machine screws or sheet metal screws
     1 small 2 position toggle switch
     a few feet of small gauge wire, 16-20 AWG should be OK
     a few more crimp on electrical connectors like those supplied in the kit

I bought a package of 100 8.5" tie wraps for $3 from Home Depot's electrical
dept. I bought the brass fittings from True Value/Ace Hardware for about $1.25
apiece. I haven't installed these yet so I'm not sure if the 1/8 OR 3/16 hose
barb is better.

MOUNTING
=========

Pressure sensor -- Use the 2 small screws to mount the pressure sensor on the
firewall. I mounted mine across from the plenum. I found space toward the
brake booster. Lucklily, when I last changed my plugs, I had tapped the plenum
(See Bob Fontana's web pages) and installed an extra hose barb so I didn't have
to tee into another line.

Solenoid -- A great place to mount the solenoid is too zip tie it to the
windshield washer fluid bottle fill neck, right under the Y-pipe fitting. This
will keep the hoses very short and is also great for noise isolation. Use the
supplied rubber mounting block and the tie wraps.

Display -- Use the supplied bracket. The display is big so it is hard to find a
place for it. I used the supplied sticky tape to mount the display to the
bracket, then slipped the bracket into the air-vent right below the factory
boost gauge. You can slip it into the top or bottom of the air-vent. Open the
glove box and tuck the wire under the carpet.

ELECTRICAL
==========

Connect the purple wire of the harness to the common pole of the toggle switch.
Connect the "A" pole to the RPM wire, then connect the "B" pole to the injector
wire. This will allow you to use the RPM connection normally, for learning and
proper display. You can flip the switch when you want to monitor IDC.

PLUMBING
========

The fittings supplied with the Apexi solenoid are way too big for our hoses.
Instead of using the reducers, you can replace the supplied brass hose barbs
with 1/8 npt x 1/8 or 1/8 npt x 3/16. Use the 90 degree fittings so you can
point the barbs toward their destination and avoid bends and excessive length in
the hoses. Be sure to wrap the threads with teflon tape.

SETUP
=====

There are so many settings that the first reading of the manual is very
confusing. The key here is to perform the settings in the order described in
the flow charts on page 8 and pages 20-21.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions,
Ken

- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 21:46:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BPV leaking ?

>Should I be able to blow air through the stock BOV when it's removed from
>the car? I can, and from what little I know, I don't think I should be
able
>to.

The stock BPV has a little hole in it that allows you to blow through but
not really a lot. But your car is almost brandnew and the valve should not
be leaking at all. It is possible that an older one starts leaking due to a
weaker spring. If it leaks then it would on any boost level higher than a
specific one and not at an rpm range.

Sorry, only little help if any :-(
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 12:44:01 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation tips

Hi Ken;

Just a quick question on your instalation. Why do you still have one hose of
the stock solenoid hooked up? Wouldn't vac capping both nipples on it (and
the appropriate turbo nipple), take it out of the curcuit completely. You
don't want it working at all do you? That is, your SAVC-R solenid is what (I
think )you want running the show, without a hint of a problem from a stock
solenoid.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 12:36:26 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies

Hey Erik:

What's this

>***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
>   44K FI cleaner.

Fess up and share it a little more verbosely.

Best

darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 21:51:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Another "goose" update

I installed the new aluminum y-pipe (custom made, WI prepared) today and drove a
long way to the customer. As I still have the same setup as before and WI not
activated (no threads in the pipe yet) I again got the "goose" sound. Therefore
the y-pipe is not really the problem, but the design of the aluminum thing is
very close to the stock pipe.

Well, more research to do :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:05:13 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

Well, you are eliminating possibilities. 1) not the clutch (or shouldn't be
yet), 2) not the plugs, 3) not fuel cut, 4) not rev limiter....hmmm ...this
next one is not a good thought...as in a word of caution... but possibly
you're running into big timing retardation here, which means detonation is
happening. That is NOT what you want to have happening. Now it may not be,
likely not, but be careful from this point on with it until you have it well
diagnosed. You don't want a full rebuild in your plans. If it is TR , the
question is WHY?

Darc

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible fuel cut

>I haven't solved the problem yet. Regapped the plugs to .035 and reset the
>ECU last night. Tried a couple more runs. Under WOT, with the boost at
>1.00 bar. the problem happened at precisely 4500 RPM every time (3rd gear).
>I kept the throttle down once, and the car recovered immediately and
started
>pulling strong again. I have hit the rev limiter in the past, and what's
>happening now is not as strong of a jerk as the rev limiter was. It throws
>me forward in the seat, but my teeth never make it to the steering wheel,
>thank god. I've got a RPS Turbo Carbon clutch, about 8K on it, so it
should
>be ok.
>
>Michael
>98VR4, DSBC, FIPK, Exhaust
>
>When I got the car back, I asked the dealer if I should take it easy for a
>while, and they said not to worry about it. So I've been pushing it since
I
>got it back.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 16:13:02 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: FAQ REQ: HELP

Ok....so this is quickly becoming massive. I'm happy to take on all of these
questions myself, I just don't guarantee a finished product before Y2K :).
So if anyone whom feels confident in one or more of these big questions
would like to take that particular question on, please e-mail me.

Which boost controller should I get? (should have manufs, differences, stand
out points)
Which clutch should I get? (should have manufs, differences, stand out
points)
Which engine management system should I get? ("
")
Which exhaust should I get? (" ")
Which air filter should I get? (" ")
What are my brake upgrade options? (" ")

This covers some of the more involved questions. Any help would be greatly
appreciated. This FAQ is becoming more like a book, and slowly an invaluable
resource.

(won't be able to assign each question until Monday, but send in your
e-mails anyway)

Gavin

FAQ additions:

Glossary
Anacronyms
"People" section
"Resource" section w/mitsu dealers, discount performance dealers, used parts
dealers,
"Cosmetic" section
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Sep 1999 13:34:09 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation tips

Hi Darc,

> Just a quick question on your instalation. Why do you still have one hose of
> the stock solenoid hooked up? Wouldn't vac capping both nipples on it (and
> the appropriate turbo nipple), take it out of the curcuit completely.

Yep. I was just lazy and didn't want to find the other end of that hose (rear
turbo is it?). I effectively capped it with the stock soleonid. It IS out of
the circuit since even though the stock solenoid opens and closes, there is no
place for the air to go since the other nipple on the stock solenoid is capped.

> You don't want it working at all do you? That is, your SAVC-R solenid is what (I
> think )you want running the show, without a hint of a problem from a stock
> solenoid.

Yep. It is out of the circuit.

Regards,
lazy Ken
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:36:26 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darcy Gunnlaugson [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Hey Erik:
>
> What's this
>
> >***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
> >   44K FI cleaner.
>
> Fess up and share it a little more verbosely.

Here's what I did:

Arty's cleaning method (MMO) - nothing changed right away
BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner - nothing changed right away
GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change - intermittent afterwards
Fresh oil (not filter) change - gone

I've found that (in general) the more dirty the oil, the more likely it is
to tick. This makes sense if you think about it. The above are the only
things I've done to the car that should affect the lash adjusters. It's
been 2-3 months since I've heard ticking. The one exception is first thing
in the morning when I start it, sometimes it'll tick until I rev it over
about 2000. Then it's gone for good.

Maybe a fluke, but I'm not complaining:)

- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC)                 59,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
- -------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:38:01 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Lash Adjuster Ticking WAS: Team3S: Info for FAQ, wheel junkies

Oops...subject change! Bad Erik.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darcy Gunnlaugson [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Hey Erik:
>
> What's this
>
> >***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
> >   44K FI cleaner.
>
> Fess up and share it a little more verbosely.

Here's what I did:

Arty's cleaning method (MMO) - nothing changed right away
BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner - nothing changed right away
GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change - intermittent afterwards
Fresh oil (not filter) change - gone

I've found that (in general) the more dirty the oil, the more likely it is
to tick. This makes sense if you think about it. The above are the only
things I've done to the car that should affect the lash adjusters. It's
been 2-3 months since I've heard ticking. The one exception is first thing
in the morning when I start it, sometimes it'll tick until I rev it over
about 2000. Then it's gone for good.

Maybe a fluke, but I'm not complaining:)

- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC)                 59,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
- -------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Sep 1999 13:56:12 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation tips

Hi back at ya Ken;

Gotcha..err.. I understand your instalation. But isn't there a possiblility
of leakage happening with this setup somewhere...an extra hose to wear,
crack, age or leak that doesn't need to be there. And a solenoid that is
opening and closing is adding to the circuit, regardless of whether it
vents. The rear turbo nipple is a %^# to get at I know (remove battery and
washer solution bottle to get at it) but you'll be happier if you did. I
like to take things out of a circuit that shouldn't be there in the event
that they complicate things when reasonably, they are not supposed to. I
mean if you went to the trouble to replace the 4 way with a 3 way, then you
ain't lazy my friend. That's a job and a half!

Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Cc: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, September 03, 1999 1:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation tips

>Hi Darc,
>
>> Just a quick question on your instalation. Why do you still have one hose
of
>> the stock solenoid hooked up? Wouldn't vac capping both nipples on it
(and
>> the appropriate turbo nipple), take it out of the curcuit completely.
>
>Yep. I was just lazy and didn't want to find the other end of that hose
(rear
>turbo is it?). I effectively capped it with the stock soleonid. It IS out
of
>the circuit since even though the stock solenoid opens and closes, there is
no
>place for the air to go since the other nipple on the stock solenoid is
capped.
>
>> You don't want it working at all do you? That is, your SAVC-R solenid is
what (I
>> think )you want running the show, without a hint of a problem from a
stock
>> solenoid.
>
>Yep. It is out of the circuit.
>
>Regards,
>lazy Ken
>--
>Drive faster, it is later than you think!
>
>Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
>General Atomics
>San Diego
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #275
****************************

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