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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #267
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest
Thursday, August 26 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
267
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 15:25:45 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: horsepower calculations
Hi
Roger
>>You're absolutely right, the drivetrain loss is a function
of speed (and
>>therefore rpm) in a specific gear (with very small
fluctuation)
I think it's probably mostly a mix between a function of
speed (for the
drivetrain by itself, and a function of RPM and gear engaged
(for the
gearbox). There's also a part for the tires, as I saw a 9 HP
difference,
simply by changing some tires to others !!
>>The
curve is not linear and is measured by running the car on the dyno
up
to
>>6000 in the gear you want to measure power and then pressing
the clutch.
The
>>resistance is then measured against speed / rpm
and stored. On the power
>>measurement this loss is then added to the
wheel hp that finally results
in
>>the flywheel hp.
That's
the correct way to do it.
As soon as you "clutch out", the car will slow
down, and the dyno will see
"negative horsepower" (I miss the correct words
here), so one can compute
the power eaten by the drivetrain, as well as the
max power being generated
by the engine.
>>At the max wheel hp
we'll have a specific loss and this added results in
max
>>engine
hp. Have a look at my dyno sheet
>>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/roger_1.gif
Correct
way to do it, even if I often saw people only considering the
"positive"
value (i.e the curve ABOVE), to find max HP, and max Torque...
and this can
lead to incorrect results.
>>Henri, on what dyno have you measured
the 300ZX ?
Bosh 2WD dyno, able to measure up to only 400 HP at the
wheels (they
do NOT want to see me anymore with the Z :-), Garage De Goudron,
in Bulle.
Everything being compensated for normal conditions (20C, sea
level)
>> 20% (on max.hp) is high for a RWD
Sigh.....sad,
but true. But remember, the fluid you have in the gearbox
makes a difference,
as well as the TIRES (this was an astonishment to me)
>> but them
the 28% on my AWD would make sense.
I think it's in the correct ball
park
>> On Audi Quattros they saw around 20-26%.
That's why
I hate to see percentage.....how was it measured.....was it
at peak power, on
which transmission combination.
If it's measured the same way as yours, I'd
say that it's pretty normal...
and the difference between 26 and 28 is not
that big
Henri
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:28:40 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Minnesota cookout reminder
Hey everyone,
I just wanted to
give a quick reminder to anyone thinking about coming to
the "All Mitsubishi
Cookout and Car Show" up here in Minneapolis. It is
this Saturday from
11am to 4pm. This event is open to all Mitsubishi made
sports
cars. So far we have 21 people signed up to come. All the details
can be found at: http://www.mn3s.org/all_mitsubishi.html
Happy
boosting,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 09:10:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Tires (Was: Followup to steering question from last week)
You didn't
mention which size you're using. If you are on 16" wheels, I
can offer
some suggestions.
I had good experience with BFGoodrich Comp T/A VR4
tires, 225/55VR16.
Long life, good stickiness, especially in wet weather,
decent noise, all
around much better tires than the previous two flavors of
Goodyear I've
used.
A few months ago I upgraded to Firestone Firehawk
SZ50, 245/50ZR16. WOW!
Noise is still good, stickiness is better wet
or dry. They're about
US$100 more per set than the BFGs would have
been. I'm hoping the tread
life is as good as the BFGs, but that'll be
determined over the coming
year or so.
Hope this helps.
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Don't
mess in the affairs of dragons,
For you are crunchy and go good with
ketchup.
On Tue, 24 Aug 1999, Chad Beeder wrote:
> On another
note, I do need new tires soon. Right now I'm running the stock
>
Michelin tires. Can anyone recommend anything better, or should I
stick
> with the Michelins?
>
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 16:32:09 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Road racing and brakes
>Have to let you in on a secret
that the race team and I have come up with
>for the Porterfield
Pads.
Now the big question : Where can I get the Porterfield brake pads
for a good
price besides Porterfield directly (or is this the only source ?).
The
Pagids are $230 and the z-Mevius $200 here. I'm not happy with the
japanese
ones (I probably have to bake them too) and I'd give the race pads a
try
with the Bremsa brakes.
Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 07:19:21 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire suggestions
Chad...
Not sure which Michelins are
stock on the NT, but I will always recommend
the XGTs as the best all around,
all weather tire. I've had VERY good
experiences with many sizes and types of
Michelins.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC
560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU
upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test
pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Chad Beeder [mailto:syzygy@eskimo.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
August 24, 1999 11:20 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Followup to steering
question from last week
<snip>
On another note, I do need new
tires soon. Right now I'm running the stock
Michelin tires. Can
anyone recommend anything better, or should I stick
with the
Michelins?
<more snip>
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
Beeder
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 23:59:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Knock summary (from TMO list)
I just wanted to share the
information on our bloody enemy : knock. With the
datalogger I'm recording
this value against rpm and timing and with this I'm
able to immediatly see
the result of the water injection. Goal is to run zero
knock at 6000 with as
much bosot as possible. (y-pipe gasket totally broke
apart.. waiting
now)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
-
---------------
Knock as it occurs in an engine is a very "impulsy" type
of signal. In
other words, very spiky with considerable gaps between
spikes. The ECU
samples knock very quickly and can therefore easily
catch all of these
spiky events. However, the datalogger port can only
log the knock value
about once every five seconds if you are logging a lot
of other stuff at
the same time. So it is quite possible that the
logger would miss raw
knock events.
The ECU does not act directly on
raw knock values anyway. Rather, it
checks to see if the spike value
is over a certain amount. If so, it
increments a value - the value I
call "knock sum". Counteracting this
constant incrementing of knock is
a "bleeder" that bleeds the value of
"knock sum" over time. So if the
knock remains below a certain level, the
"bleeder" in the code will
eventually drag knock sum to zero. In a DSM, if
knock sum gets above
7, I think, timing will start to be reduced. This
could be different
for the 3000. In fact, it is possible that the 3000
uses a higher
limit than 43 like in the DSM. Please let me know if you
find that to
be true.
So the reason I use knock sum instead of actual knock is
twofold. One,
since it is an integral, you will not miss events if you
sample at the
wrong time. Two, knock sum directly affects timing, so
viewing it takes
you closer to how the ECU is thinking.
-
-todd-
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:44:00 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Driving School
Being only
>>25 (and not part of any Silicon
Valley start up) means my VR4 is a luxury.
Rich-
Being only 25,
how do you justify caling yourself "old poop?"
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 18:50:47 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: '92 Stealth Twin Turbo AWD 5-speed trans
Here's a question from a
non-member (he found us on Eric's site). One
of you guys want to email
him privately with 'chapter & verse' about
the
Getrag?
Thanks,
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From:
Larry Estep <lestep@worldnet.att.net>
Does
anyone know where I can buy parts to rebuild the transaxle gear
cluster for a
'92 Getrag Stealth AWD 5-speed manual transmission? The
bearings are
shot because the previous owner drove it without any
transmission oil for
over a year and a half.
The gears are still in good shape, but all of the
bearings are burnt
up. I need the three pairs of bearings for each of
the shafts
internal
to the transaxle as well as the left and right oil
seals.
Please return email to:
lestep@gaylordentertainment.com
or
call me at work at (615)316-6602.
Also, I have the shop manual from
Chrysler, but it does not list any
internal parts for the all-wheel drive
5-speed. It does for the
front-wheel drive 5-speed, so if you know they
will work, I might be
able to use those. One of my local parts stores
has the oil seals for
two of the five possible front-wheel drive 5-speed
transaxles, but
those
oil seals are larger than the ones in the AWD, so I
am doubtful that
any
of the other parts will work.
Thanks in
advance,
Larry Estep
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 19:26:00 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Eibach Nightmare is over!
Yes, indeed, the tech at the Dodge Dealership
got careless and trashed
the eccentric bolts (rear camber adjusters) while he
was installing my
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs... And it only took him 12 hrs
of labor to do
it!!! They had my Stealth for 8 days, but finally
finished the
install when the bolts came in, and easily brought the alignment
back
to spec. Being one of the "good guys" dealerships, they paid for
a
rental car over the weekend, and scrapped all the paperwork on what
they
spent, and charged me a flat $375 for everything-- labor,
alignment and
tax!
This is the RIGHT way to do business, and I have confidence in
them
doing a job right, so they've got me as a permanent customer.
If
you're in the Bay Area, that's Les Vogel Dodge, Burlingame,
650
342-2120. They're not the cheapest around, but they're pros, so
I
trust them with my car. And the alignment is the best I've ever
had.
With the Eibachs, the Stealth feels great!
Thanks to all of you
who helped me with suggestions, and some extra
education.
:-)
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 26 Aug 1999 09:28:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driving School
<grin> I'm not Rich, I'm
Mike!
> Rich-
> Being only 25, how do you justify caling
yourself "old poop?"
> Regards, ptg
>
>
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #267
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