--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #266
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Wednesday, August 25 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
266
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 04:26:27 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
W.Coast Gathering, Monterey; BANG'99#2, Portland...
- -----Original
Message-----From: Nav Moondi <moondin@megahits.com>
-
-------snip------
>Here is the new url for the gathering: Sept.
24th,
>25th and 26th in Monterey, CA :
>http://www.megahits.com/moondin/wcg.htm
>Please
send me an email if you will be attending.
>Spread the word! It's the
first and only West Coast
>Gathering we'll have this century!
:)
Errrrr, point of order, Mr. Chairman... This IS important
news, and
we're spreading the word, but:
1. Cross posting (to
both lists in one email) is NOT allowed. You
were away, Nav, but every
time someone answers a cross-post to
Starnet, it BOUNCES here (lots of those
lately). That means our ISP
gets pissed, which endangers the Team3S
list. Please, DON'T do it,
folks!
2. Thanks for finally
letting us know about the WCG... It's the
first time many of us have
heard of this, so it may be difficult for
many to make plans. But it
sounds like it will be a fine array of
cars, and great fun! (I just got
back from Monterey last night-- just
gorgeous there!).
3. I
guess you're a little late being "the FIRST" West Coast
gathering...
The Pacific NW guys have been having them for years, we
at "Team3S" (and
others) had BANG'99#1 (Bay Area Northwest Gathering)
in January here in San
Francisco, and we are having BANG'99#2 in
Portland THIS
WEEKEND!!!
BANG'99 plans: Some of us will be racing at PIR
(Portland
International Raceway) on Friday night; Saturday AM features
a
cavalcade/phot-op through some beautiful winding roads, Barbecue
at
Chris Winkley & Teri Beaman's house in the afternoon, and a
HEART
concert that night; more photos & brunch Sunday morning, and a
STYX
concert Sunday PM.
But undoubtedly, the West Coast Gathering will
be "the LAST" gathering
of the century (unless we squeeze in a BANG'99#3!),
and probably the
biggest! :-)
Anyone interested in joining
either gathering should reply in private
email:
BANG'99#2, Portland,
OR, Aug. 27, 28, 29:
Chris Winkley cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
WCG#1,
Monterey, CA, Sept. 24, 25, 26:
Nav Moondi moondin@megahits.com
Everyone--
Have a GREAT time, drink but don't drive, and keep the
shiny side up!
See you there!
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 14:27:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: horsepower calculations
>I don't see why the drivetrain
horsepower loss is a PERCENTAGE of the POWER
>generated by the
engine.
You're absolutely right, the drivetrain loss is a function of
speed (and
therefore rpm) in a specific gear (with very small
fluctuation)
The curve is not linear and is measured by running the car
on the dyno up to
6000 in the gear you want to measure power and then
pressing the clutch. The
resistance is then measured against speed / rpm and
stored. On the power
measurement this loss is then added to the wheel hp that
finally results in
the flywheel hp.
At the max wheel hp we'll have a
specific loss and this added results in max
engine hp. Have a look at my dyno
sheet
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/roger_1.gif
Here
the max wheel hp is 188kW with a loss of 73.5kW. Therefore engine power
is
261.5kW and 73.5kW is a loss of 28.1%. This of course only belongs to
peak
hp. The loss difference of the cars is due to the fact that my 13G
equipped
car had the hp peak earlier than the others. Therefore the loss is
somewhat
smaller at the lower rpm and therefore the real engine hp a little
lower then
the others. But the curves on the loss are the very same (my 5
speed is a
little different but not too much)
Henri, on what dyno have you measured
the 300ZX ? 20% (on max.hp) is high
for a RWD but them the 28% on my AWD
would make sense. On Audi Quattros they
saw around
20-26%.
Roger
93'3000GT TT (y-pipe-less at the moment...)
>I
agree that it would fluctuate a little (caused by increased
friction),
but
>not that much.
>
>If the value is given as
a percentage of the STOCK horsepower, I would
>agree.....but a drivetrain
loss
>that is a DIRECT function of the power generated......doesn't
compute
right.
>
>I know as a fact that in a TTZ, the drivetrains
loss is about 20% of the
>STOCK horsepower (300 HP), but stays the same
when you increase the power
>output up to 550 HP....and I don't really see
WHY my Stealth, even if it's
>an AWD, should be different.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:05:00 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
horsepower calculations
In a message dated 8/23/99 5:05:23 PM Central
Daylight Time,
curt_gendron@hotmail.com
writes:
<< I used my G-tech Pro over the weekend to take some
horsepower readings at
different levels of boost. I thought you
might want to see what water
injection can do. :) I've got
all the data at this link:
http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
Enjoy,
Curt,
>>
Hey Curt & everyone,
Excellent
post & website, Curt!! Very informative! So you're definitely
in favor of the water injections system, eh? hehehheheheh.....lol...I
know!
I can't wait to get it as well.
;-P
I'm wondering.....did
you have to calibrate the weight of your car at all
with the G-tech
Pro? If so, did you calculate the weight at about 4005lbs.?
(that's
what my '92 VR4 weighs with me (230lbs.) in it, 1/8 tank of gas,
removed
spare tire & full interior).
Talk to you later,
Ahmed
"AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 (Still in Body shop!!)
GReddy Profec B boost
controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport
boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow
cat, Borla exhaust, Magnecore 8.5mm wires & new NGK spark
plugs gapped
at .032, Apex'i New liquid crystal Super AFC (not installed
yet), KVR Cross
drilled rotors with carbon fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme
NT-555
(255/40/17's) tires, Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) racing wheels &
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (not installed yet). Coming soon: Turbo
upgrade,
550cc. injectors & HKS fuel pump (hopefully all will be
installed before
Sept. 12th & 18th. for the IMPORT NOPI Drag
WARS!!!!)
&
1987 Grand National (for sale): way too many mods to
list! Please forward my
email address to anyone who may be interested
in purchasing this collector's
car!!!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:25:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Driving School
Dude, that sounds like an incredible
experience.
Just out of curiousity, how much does all this racing cost
you? Being only
25 (and not part of any Silicon Valley start up) means my VR4
is a luxury.
Can't afford to bang it up.
I have car payments for the
next 2 years, but maybe I'll pick up a used
car somewhere to race around in.
What do you think - an old 1G?
mb
97 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:01:32 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
Hey Ahmed,
Yes, you do need to
enter the weight into the G-tech. I had about a quarter
of a tank of
gas. I entered 4,000 lbs. for the weight. All horsepower runs
were made in 2nd and 3rd gear, but mostly 2nd. It creates less drag if
your
going slower. Thats why 2nd is
better.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>Hey Curt &
everyone,
>
> Excellent post & website,
Curt!! Very informative! So you're
>definitely
>in
favor of the water injections system, eh? hehehheheheh.....lol...I
>know!
>I can't wait to get it as
well. ;-P
>
>
I'm wondering.....did you have to calibrate the weight of your car at
>all
>with the G-tech Pro? If so, did you calculate the
weight at about
>4005lbs.?
>(that's what my '92 VR4 weighs with me
(230lbs.) in it, 1/8 tank of gas,
>removed spare tire & full
interior).
>
>Talk to you later,
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" -
'92 VR4 (Still in Body
shop!!)
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:12:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driving School
>Just out of curiousity, how much does all
this racing cost you? Being only
>25 (and not part of any Silicon Valley
start up) means my VR4 is a luxury.
>Can't afford to bang it
up.
For Blackhawk Farms, a race weekend costs:
Entry fee:
$150
New front race pads: $120
Plus travel, hotel, and meals.
The
next event at Road America will cost $250 for an entry fee.
Events at
Heartland Park are $200.
For a one-time try, you should get by for about
$500 (new pads, brake
fluid, entry fee, travel)
Don't worry about banging
up the car -- the instructor won't let you.
Because you don't know how to
brake properly yet, you may ruin a rotor or
two, and definitely will go
through a set of pads. Save the old street
pads, and put them back in when
the event is over.
If you want to do it on a regular basis, you'll need
a set of race tires
($800) and a spare set of wheels ($400). The tires should
last for 3-4
events, or an entire season (I do three events per year so far,
but would
like to do about six). You'll replace front pads every event,
and front
rotors every 2-3 events. I ran my first season on street tires, and
wore
them down very fast.
>
>I have car payments for the next
2 years, but maybe I'll pick up a used
>car somewhere to race around in.
What do you think - an old 1G?
A 3000GT is a tough car to campaign
because it's so heavy and expensive to
fix if you ding it. You might want to
think about a AWD Eclipse or Eagle
Talon instead. They weigh 1,000 pounds
less, are cheaper to run, and race
parts are readily available. That keeps it
in the family, too.
>
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 09:12:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Driving School
>Just out of curiousity, how much does all
this racing cost you? Being only
>25 (and not part of any Silicon Valley
start up) means my VR4 is a luxury.
>Can't afford to bang it
up.
For Blackhawk Farms, a race weekend costs:
Entry fee:
$150
New front race pads: $120
Plus travel, hotel, and meals.
The
next event at Road America will cost $250 for an entry fee.
Events at
Heartland Park are $200.
For a one-time try, you should get by for about
$500 (new pads, brake
fluid, entry fee, travel)
Don't worry about banging
up the car -- the instructor won't let you.
Because you don't know how to
brake properly yet, you may ruin a rotor or
two, and definitely will go
through a set of pads. Save the old street
pads, and put them back in when
the event is over.
If you want to do it on a regular basis, you'll need
a set of race tires
($800) and a spare set of wheels ($400). The tires should
last for 3-4
events, or an entire season (I do three events per year so far,
but would
like to do about six). You'll replace front pads every event,
and front
rotors every 2-3 events. I ran my first season on street tires, and
wore
them down very fast.
>
>I have car payments for the next
2 years, but maybe I'll pick up a used
>car somewhere to race around in.
What do you think - an old 1G?
A 3000GT is a tough car to campaign
because it's so heavy and expensive to
fix if you ding it. You might want to
think about a AWD Eclipse or Eagle
Talon instead. They weigh 1,000 pounds
less, are cheaper to run, and race
parts are readily available. That keeps it
in the family, too.
>
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:57:50 -0400
From: mark kibort <mkibort@compuserve.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Horsepower calculations. (Loss estimations)
Hello
all,
As I mentioned before, How in the heck can you have or measure a 30%
loss.
I saw some mention of the
"loss inventory" but how was that
measured? On the dyno, you can do a
coast down in gear and out of gear
to get
rolling losses which are about 20 hp at 130 mph and go down to 10 hp
at 80
mph (So this variable is speed dependant)
you can see the
compression and general engine shape by doing a coast down
with it in gear,
but those numbers are about 1/2 the driven wheel hp. So,
how do you get
30% loss in a fairly efficient gear box and diff that should
be in the sub 20
loss range?.)
I would love to think that my 250 hp to the ground 928S track
car has
357hp, but no way. (more like 288HP with a 15% loss)
I race cars
that are in the 300 to 350 range on the flywheel, and they are
definitely
faster on the straights on the track.
My next thought is if it was true, you
would be boiling transmission fluid
as the entire 30% loss in energy has to
go somewhere , and that somewhere
is heat. Minus the rolling losses of
about 20 hp, you would have 100 hp of
pure heat coming out of a
transmission.
Think of the heat and thermal mass of a 100 hp engine,
and then think of
how much of that 100 hp is going up in heat. ( I
think I remember
something about our "heat engines" being about 50% efficient
. So, 50 hp
out of an engine in heat is still very hot,
even with water cooling it.
Now double that number and think of that heat in
just your transmission and
rear differential.
Im just thinking out
loud here , but are we being a little optimistic on
the HP flywheel
numbers?
Really interested in the calculations of the losses in
your 4wd monsters.
Respectfully,
Mark
Kibort
eRACING
www.electricsupercharger.com
PS.
Just returned from a Touring car club race at Buttonwillow Raceway,
where
Team eRACiNG took 1st and 2nd place overall against some
major
trailerbabies. The 450 hp mustang, was over heating
over the two days,
so its mechanic and driver had to settle for a third and
pack up there
tools trailer sets of tires and trailer and go home with their
tails
between there legs. Sometimes Racing is not about who's car is
fastest,
but who's car can run properly under stress. ( that "stang" had
every mod
you could think of and done very well. You could eat
off the engine, and
heat your food right on top of that Supercharger.
Both
eRACiNG cars (european M3 lightweight full race, but streetable, and
the 928S
) had the eRAM electricsuperchargers.
OUR first
victory.
a Message text written by INTERNET:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Some
food for thoughts
>>The multiplication factor you are using appears
to be too low. According
to
>>Roger et al's dyno test in Feb,
a 2nd gen with 18" wheels & 6 speed have
about a
>>29.55%
loss. Thus the wheel to flywheel multiplication factor should be:
1 /
(1
>>- .2955) = 1.419! (I too have a hard time believeing this
multiplication
>>factor, but that is what I calculate from the info
that Roger has
previously
>>posted, see includes).
I don't
see why the drivetrain horsepower loss is a PERCENTAGE of the POWER
generated
by the engine.
I agree that it would fluctuate a little (caused by
increased friction),
but
not that much.
If the value is given as a
percentage of the STOCK horsepower, I would
agree.....but a drivetrain
loss
that is a DIRECT function of the power generated......doesn't
compute
right.
I know as a fact that in a TTZ, the drivetrains loss is
about 20% of the
STOCK horsepower (300 HP), but stays the same when you
increase the power
output up to 550 HP....and I don't really see WHY my
Stealth, even if it's
an AWD, should be different.
Any ideas
??
Henri
<
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 12:12:33 -0400
From: "Scotty" <omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Team3S: 92
RT, Just will not turn over
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BEEE29.F1FFDE20
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I got a problem, I've had my 92 RT Twinturbo in storage
for at least 6 =
months. Took it off the road for insurance reasons. But here
the =
problem. I keep the battery connected for a few months while it was in
=
storage. I went to start it up one day and the Battery was dead. So I
=
charged the battery, checked it with a Battery load tester and it was
=
fine. But when I go to start the car, nothing. But all the Accessories
=
work fine. I did notice that the battery cable wires were a little
=
corroded. I cleaned the Battery terminals and connectors, but the car
=
still will not crank over. Any ideas on what to do?
Mike Scott
92
RT TT
omnitech@fast.net
-
------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BEEE29.F1FFDE20
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I got a
problem, I've had my 92 RT =
Twinturbo in=20
storage for at least 6
months. Took it off the road for insurance =
reasons. But=20
here the
problem. I keep the battery connected for a few months while it =
was
in=20
storage. I went to start it up one day and the Battery was dead. So I
=
charged=20
the battery, checked it with a Battery load tester and it was
fine. But =
when I=20
go to start the car, nothing. But all the
Accessories work fine. I did =
notice=20
that the battery cable wires were
a little corroded. I cleaned the =
Battery=20
terminals and connectors,
but the car still will not crank over. Any =
ideas on=20
what to
do?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Mike
Scott</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>92 RT TT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:omnitech@fast.net">omnitech@fast.net</A></FONT></DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BEEE29.F1FFDE20--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 10:12:16 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 92 RT,
Just will not turn over
Does the car click at all for the starter??? If
it doesn't then do you push
in the clutch in all the way to the floor board,
people starting my car has
this same problem because you actually have to
floor the clutch to Inage the
starter. Just thoughts...
92
3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap
<http://members.xoom.com/palamarap>
- -----Original Message-----
From: Scotty [mailto:omnitech@fast.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
August 24, 1999 10:13 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: 92 RT, Just will not turn over
I got a problem, I've had my
92 RT Twinturbo in storage for at least 6
months. Took it off the road for
insurance reasons. But here the problem. I
keep the battery connected for a
few months while it was in storage. I went
to start it up one day and the
Battery was dead. So I charged the battery,
checked it with a Battery load
tester and it was fine. But when I go to
start the car, nothing. But all the
Accessories work fine. I did notice that
the battery cable wires were a
little corroded. I cleaned the Battery
terminals and connectors, but the car
still will not crank over. Any ideas
on what to do?
Mike
Scott
92 RT TT
omnitech@fast.net
<mailto:omnitech@fast.net>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:04:27 EDT
From: "Nav Moondi" <moondin@megahits.com>
Subject:
Team3S: re: West Coast Gathering - Sept 24, 25, 26th.
>Starnet, it
BOUNCES here (lots of those lately). That means our ISP
Really?? That's odd. Don't see how that would work
but..
>2. Thanks for finally letting us know about the
WCG... It's the
>first time many of us have heard of this, so it
may be difficult for
>many to make plans. But it sounds like it
will be a fine array of
It's looking pretty cool. First year is always
the smallest, but
hopefully it'll turn into a yearly event and start grabbing
people
from far away. That's how the East Coast Gatherings
started.
>at "Team3S" (and others) had BANG'99#1 (Bay Area Northwest
Gathering)
>in January here in San Francisco, and we are having BANG'99#2
in
I was there for the January one. That was fun! How far is
Portland,
Oregon from S.F.? Is there a hp for the BANG #2?
c ya
Bob!
- -= nav =-
"West Coast Gathering homepage: http://www.megahits.com/moondin/wcg.htm"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:21:51 -0400
From: rich shepherd <lionred@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: motor swap
i was wondering what year motor you can use in a
92vr4. are the 2nd gen
motors alot of work to use. how about a 6 speed trans?
and how hard is
it to use the 2nd gen headlights on a 1st gen car? is it alot
of work?
just some questions iv had for awhile hope you guys can help me
out.
thanks
rich
92vr4 cincinnati area
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 13:27:54 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@creepingdeath.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: motor swap
> i was wondering what year motor you can use
in a 92vr4.
91-92. 93's got a 4 bolt main so I don't know if you can use
them.
> are the 2nd gen
> motors alot of work to use.
a lot of eletrical differences.
> it to use the 2nd gen
headlights on a 1st gen car? is it alot of work?
New hood, a lot of metal
cutting and then probably some welding after
that. The entire front end of
the car is different from the 1st gens and
2nd gens pretty much.
-
--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 11:12:55 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
> >I don't see why the
drivetrain horsepower loss is a PERCENTAGE of the POWER
> >generated by
the engine.
snip
> Here the max wheel hp is 188kW with a loss of
73.5kW. Therefore engine power
> is 261.5kW and 73.5kW is a loss of 28.1%.
This of course only belongs to
> peak hp. The loss difference of the cars
is due to the fact that my 13G
Thanks Henri & Roger. This is
exactly the info I was looking for. Now for
future calculations, I
won't multiply wheel HP by "a factor", but instead simply
add the loss of
73.5kW ~= 98.7 HP.
- --
I feel like I'm diagonally parked in a
parallel universe.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 18:25:39 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Road America School in October
The Badger Bimmers BMW club is
holding its annual Road America driver's
school October 15-17.
The
novice class is closed out, but a few openings still exist for
intermediate
and advanced drivers.
Sure wish some of you hotshoe 3000GT drivers from
the Midwest would join
me. It's awfully lonely out there among the English
(oops, Germans). All I
have from the family are Eclipses and
Talons.
Dr Jack T, Mike and Chuck Willis, and Skully, c'mon up! RA is 4.5
miles of
black lightning, with two one-mile straights!
If you're
interested, see the website at:
http://www.badgerbimmers.org/Calendar/OctoberFast/octoberfast.html
You
can download an entry form, send in yer money, and we'll all kick some
BMW
butt.
Those M3s should be easier to take at a horsepower track like Road
America
than they were at Blackhawk Farms.
Let me know if you're
going.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 23:19:53 -0700
From: "Chad Beeder" <syzygy@eskimo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Followup to steering question from last week
Well, I took my car in to
the dealer today for an oil change. Also had them
put some Redline
MT-90 in the transmission. The improvement in shifting is
quite
noticeable. Still not silky smooth, but much better, and it's
greatly
reduced the grinding on the synchros.
But here's the strange
thing. The steering problem I was complaining about
last week (loose
steering, a bit of play in the steering wheel at highway
speeds, etc.) seems
much better now too! I didn't have them specifically
look at the
steering, just asked for an oil change, so I don't know what
they could have
done that would have affected this. I guess it could have
been
something as simple as tire pressure...? Or maybe I was low on
power
steering fluid or something? Could that cause something like
this?
I'll continue to keep an eye on it, at any rate.
On another
note, I do need new tires soon. Right now I'm running the
stock
Michelin tires. Can anyone recommend anything better, or should I
stick
with the Michelins?
My main considerations for tires are,
roughly in this order:
1. All-around performance
2. Performance in the
rain (I live in Seattle, so they have to be good in
wet weather)
3. Noise
level (would be nice to still be able to hear the stereo) :-)
4.
Longevity
5. Price
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Chad
Beeder
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 25 Aug 1999 08:41:09 -0400
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Road
racing and brakes
>ABOUT THE BRAKES
>For this event, I ran
Porterfield rotors and R4 race pads. We put the pads
>on prior to the
event, and drove there (about 180 miles) on the pads.
<<<snip>>
>Lesson: With air ducting, I think a set
of Porterfields will last an entire
>weekend. I'll have that back on by
the next event at Road America in
October.
<<<snip>>
>basically dead even
everywhere on the track. I had some trouble getting by
>a lowly Neon,
equipped with the performance package from Chrysler (brakes,
>suspension,
balanced and blueprinted engine). It took me several laps to
>get by,
mainly because he was actually a little faster than I was from 1-3.
>(How
do they do that?) What an amazing little car!
-
-------------------
Have to let you in on a secret that the race team and
I have come up with
for the Porterfield Pads.
This has worked fabulously
for the AWD Talon (World Challenge car ~550 HP)
with TT Stealth rotors and
calipers, and on my FWD eagle talon single
piston calipers and tiny rotors
:)
When you get the pads from porterfield put them on your gas grill or
in the
oven,
(preferably gas grill if you ever want to eat out of your
oven again, the
stench will have you doing flashbacks to the last time you
came into a
corner too hot at the track and cooked the brakes).
Keep
them on the gas grill cooking on high setting for approx. 1/2 hr pad
side up.
Then let them cool by just turning off the grill (allows a nice
slow cool
down) This pre-heat cycles the pads and they will wear MUCH MUCH
longer. Have
not asked Porterfield what they think of this but I am on my
fourth or fifth
race weekend with the FWD car. (BTW, They used to only last
a single weekend)
The longevity after cooked is unbelievable. Braking does
not suffer at all,
and with the price of porterfield pads alone it is worth
a try, you will
become a believer. Cost for the front pads for the FWD car
is 139. This
cooking on the grill has made race weekends slightly more
affordable!
You may also want to try the R4E compound that Porterfield makes. They
take
a little longer to get heat in them but they also last longer, they
are
supposed to be the endurance compound. BTW, this is the only pad we used
on
the AWD Talon World Challenge car
Just try to keep the barbecue
sauce off of the pads! :)
Let me know if you have any questions on
this.
This year I am racing a 1981 Mazda RX-7 in the new Spec RX-7 class
for the
Washington, DC region of the SCCA. ( http://www.wdcr-scca.org/ ). I
am
currently 5th in SRX-7 points, in my second year of road racing. Check
out
my site for more details ( http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey/
)
Those pesky ACR neons are fast little cars, I had to run against them
all
last year when I ran a 1995 Talon Esi in Showroom Stock C class. I
ran
against the SOHC neon with my DOHC "neon motored" Talon because of
the
weight difference between the Talon and the Neon (approx 300
lbs)
I will be racing next weekend in a Double regional at Summit Point,
WV, (
http://www.summitpoint-raceway.com/
)and can always use extra spectators or
crew if you are interested. Let me
know. Event runs from Friday September
3rd through Monday the
6th.
- -shawn dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68
(in the happy hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91
Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi
SCCA Race Car (SSC class #19)
'81 Mazda RX7 GSL SCCA Spec RX7 #32
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
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End
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