--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #265
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest
Tuesday, August 24 1999 Volume
01 : Number
265
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 22 Aug 1999 22:01:10 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Blackhawk Farms Drivers School
Went to a BMW driver's school at
Blackhawk Farms this weekend.
Highlights:
1. For the first event
yet, the Old Poop Brake Shop was closed for the
weekend. Porterfields
work!
2. When ya move up a class, the competition gets tough
3. BMWs are
fine racecars.
A LAP OF BLACKHAWK FARMS
It's 1.9 miles through the
trees, with some scary places. The only place to
relax is on the front
straight, because it's the only place that's
straight. Everything else is a
series of linked turns, and you are very,
very busy. It is NOT a horsepower
track, although it helps. Tires,
handling, and keeping your speed up is
vital. I ran the entire thing in
3rd gear, never shifting.
Turn
1 is at the end of a 3/8 mile straight. I hit 110 just before 1 if
I
got a good launch onto the straight, 100 otherwise.
Bang on the brakes,
then a very late apex right into turn 1. It's a 90-deg
right, taken in a nice
continuous arc.
Turn 2 is a gentle bend to the left, taken flat out at
about 80. Big pucker
factor the first few times you do this, then it gets to
be second nature.
The VR4 is pulling hard in 3rd gear through here, so it
makes up lots of
ground on slower cars or those who brake for 2.
It's
flat out from the apex of turn 1 to the braking point for turn 3.
We're doing
about 90 before braking for 3.
Brake for Turn 3, a carousel
(continuous-radius turn) to the right. Take
this in the middle of the track,
stay at a constant speed half way around
at about 45, then hard on the
throttle at the exit, clip the inside curb at
3A (left) then hard on the
brakes for 3B (right).
There is no correct line through this 3a-3b S-turn
-- all you really want
to do is get properly set up for the exit of 4.
Turn 4 is a left- left, and you must tap the brakes slightly at the exit
to
set the suspension, or you slide into the concrete wall, 20 ft beyond
the
turn.
Late apex into the entry of 4 (left), tap brakes then flat
at the exit of 4
(left) and keep it flat out all the way to 6.
Turn
five is an increasing-radius left. You come out of 4 at about 65,
accelerate
to the very, very late apex of 5, grit your teeth, pucker up,
hold the
turn-in to the last possible microsecond, clip the apex on the
left, and let
the car drift to the right, all the way to edge of the track,
at about 95
mph. Keep it flat, start easing back to the left to set up for
6, a right. At
about 105, bang on the brakes. If you take 5 correctly, you
get an
adrenelin rush you would not believe! Omigawd! I did it!
If you turn in a
teeny bit too early, you run out of track at 95 mph, and
take a wild ride
through the grass. This involves getting all four wheels
about 3 ft in the
air whilst flying over some grassy bumps, mowing down the
grass, and ripping
off brake ducts. Your humble narrator has personal
experience with such an
adventure.
Only once, though. I did manage to eventually find the
correct turn in point.
But I digress.
Hard on the brakes at 6,
late apex to a right-right, then down the back
straight to 7, another right.
About 150 yards from 7 is a slight kink to
the right, taken at 100. Don't
lift, just flat though the kink, wait til
the car stops sliding and is
straight again, then bang on the brakes, late
apex, clip the concrete curb at
the exit, then down the front straight,
heading for 1 again. That's a lap of
Blackhawk Farms.
There is some discussion as to where the fastest point
on the track is --
some say it's the end of the straight at 1, others say
it's the entrance to
6, and others say it's 7. All I can say is, the only
time I could actually
watch the speedo when entering a turn is at 1, because
it's the end of a
straight straightaway. Too much is going on at the entries
to 6 and 7 to
watch, although I did see 95 and 100, respectively, at various
points prior
to those turns. Believe me, you do not want to look down at the
speedo
prior to braking at either turn.
ABOUT THE BRAKES
For
this event, I ran Porterfield rotors and R4 race pads. We put the pads
on
prior to the event, and drove there (about 180 miles) on the pads.
My infamous brake ducts were partially inoperable. While driving on
the
street, one duct caught on something, ripped off the hose, and wrapped
the
hose around the CV joint, tearing the boot. Just prior to the event, I
had
to have the boot replaced, and never had time to put the hose back on.
On
the right side, the hose had pulled out of the front scoop, and was
just
hanging there. It was still connected to the caliper, but its inlet was
no
longer in the scoop. It was just stuffed up inside the front valence.
My
intent was to use some time between runs to re-install the hoses. Never
got
to do this.
Nevertheless, for the first time ever, the pads did
not fade. At the end of
each session, I still had brakes! This involved
bringing it down from 100
or near-100 mph speeds to about 40 mph at least
four times per lap (at 1,
3, 6 and 7), plus a coupla places where you just
stab it good (3b and 4).
During my third session, when I did some
agricultural driving across the
field, the grass ripped off the brake scoops,
so my plans to fix the hoses
went south.
Next day, I ran the first
session, then pulled the right front wheel to
inspect the pads up close and
personal. They looked like they would last
the entire weekend. Unfortunately,
I pulled the wrong wheel. As it turned
out, the right wheel (the one that had
some air cooling for a while) was
just fine. Unknown to me, the uncooled left
side was wearing much faster.
At the end of the second session, I pulled the
left wheel and saw that the
pads were down to the backing, and the rotor was
scored. I packed up and
went home. I didn't want to replace both front rotors
and install stock
pads just to run two more sessions.
Lesson: With
air ducting, I think a set of Porterfields will last an entire
weekend. I'll
have that back on by the next event at Road America in October.
THE
COMPETITION
As I predicted, competition in higher classes is tougher.
This was a BMW
club event, and there were some very nasty cars driven by
experienced
dudes. They put little decals in their rear windows -- very
subtle, these
Bimmer people -- that say stuff like Dinan, Brembo, and such as
that. Since
Blackhawk is not a horsepower track, it was tough to use the
superior power
of the VR4, so these Beemers were tough to catch. For example,
it's very
difficult to make up ground on an M3 from 1 to 3 or 4 to 6, where
both of
us are flatout all the way through there. I could catch cars from 6
to 7 or
7 to 1, but that was the only place where HP made a significant
difference.
There was an AWD Eclipse and an Eagle Talon in my class, each
with a bigger
turbo and intercooler, boost controller, and sticky
tires. One said he was
running about 325 HP with his 2700 lb car. I could
pass either, albeit with
great difficulty. I got the Talon because he lifted
at 2 and 5, but I think
the Eclipse only let me by just so he could follow me
for a while. We were
basically dead even everywhere on the track. I had some
trouble getting by
a lowly Neon, equipped with the performance package from
Chrysler (brakes,
suspension, balanced and blueprinted engine). It took me
several laps to
get by, mainly because he was actually a little faster than I
was from 1-3.
(How do they do that?) What an amazing little car!
My
son sent me an account (similar to this narrative) on how to drive
Blackhawk
in a Fiero, written by an autocrosser, and it's amazing how his
speeds and
mine are so similar. It means that handling is far more
important here than
horsepower.
I got all the 318s, 325s, miscellaneous unknown BMWs, and
Audis in my
group, but never encountered the two corvettes and a carrera. I
never did
get one badass M3, but I did catch him once.
It was a good
weekend. The car is starting to get right! Rear pads, Ground
Control springs
and the bleeder valve are next.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors.
Porterfield R4 race
pads
Brake ducts (sometimes)
Yokohama 032R race
tires
K&N
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 09:41:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Digest archives
Can someone let me know how I can access these
archives? Are they
searchable?
Also, would it be possible for me to
download the archives onto my
computer and read them at my own
leisure?
Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 08:08:00 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Polishing
For those people who are interested in having your
valve cover or plenum
polished, but do not want your car out of commission
during the polishing
and shipping time, below is a salvage yard that has some
used valve covers
and a plenum for sale. If your interested, buy the
used part and ship it to
me for polishing. See http://www.omega-sw.com/stealth/fu00005.htm
for
more information on polishing.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth/fu
Hello
Jeffrey:
For the upper plenum it would be $250.00. if interested please give
Rob a
call at a 800 255 6656 thanks
Hello Jeffrey...In reply to your
request for parts, on the valve covers, we
have 1 set of 1991 and 1 set of
1993,for a total in stock, of 4, our price
is $80.00 each, plus $10.00
shipping on each. We also have 1 1991 plenum,
(upper and lower) for a
total of $500.00 plus $30.00 for shipping. You can
contact Rob at
1-800-255-6656
and let me know if you are interested. Thank you for
contacting us.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 12:22:16 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Safe Boost?
Actually, 1.0 bar is 14.7
psi....
=)
Carlos
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris
Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
'syzygy@webzone.net' <syzygy@webzone.net>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, August 22, 1999 12:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Safe
Boost?
>15 psi (1.0 bar)
>
>Looking
forward...Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: syzygy@webzone.net [mailto:syzygy@webzone.net]
>Sent:
Sunday, August 22, 1999 4:03 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Team3S: Safe Boost?
>
>
>What is the max boost you can SAFELY
run on stock ingectors, fuel map, etc?
>I
>am considering upgraded
turbos and need to know how far I can go without
>messing
>with too
much else. Only current mods on the car is K&N Drop In and 3"
Cat
>Back
>exhaust (no mufflers). I will get a boost controller when
I upgrade
the
>turbos.
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>Nissa
>95
VR-4
>
>BTW. I am looking to buy an 'economy' car for my move to
California... my
>VR-4
>isn't exactly fuel efficient and since it
has low miles I want to keep it
>that
>way. So, I was looking at V6
Camry's yesterday and realized how spoiled I
>really
>am! It is
really hard to get excited about a car that isn't at least 300hp!
> If
anyone has been through this delima and gotten a fuel efficient
(and
>somewhat
>powerful) daily driver please e-mail me privately
and let me know what you
>use...
>Thanks again!
>
>Don't
mess in the affairs of dragons.
>For you are crunchy and go good with
ketchup.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 14:09:42 -0400
From: "Johnson, Scott (CAP, ITS, CA)"
<Scott.Johnson@gects.ge.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How-to work in a new clutch... Suggestions
Hi
guys,
After living with an irritating (and getting progressively
worse) "clutch
chatter" for the last month, I'm finally getting a new clutch
installed in
my Stealth R/T TT.
I'd like to ask you all what you
feel is the best way to break in a new
clutch? (techniques, time required,
etc.)
Thanks
Scott
1993 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 11:27:52 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin: The Archive Page is back On-Line.
To all:
The Archive
Page is back On-Line, and can be accessed through the main
Team3S Page, or
directly at:
www.bobforrest.com/Team3S-Archive.htm
Our
list software (Majordomo) automatically stores our files on a
monthly basis,
as zip files. When you send a request for an archive
file, it is
returned to you almost immediately by the software. The
files vary in
size, ranging from 100k to 500k. They are searchable
using the search
facilities in the WinZip software.
Please let me know if there are any
problems accessing the Archive
Page or any of the archive files.
Thank
you.
Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 17:04:21 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: horsepower calculations
Hey everyone,
I used my G-tech Pro
over the weekend to take some horsepower readings at
different levels of
boost. I thought you might want to see what water
injection can
do. :) I've got all the data at this link:
http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
Enjoy,
Curt,
95
R/T TT --> 13.11 @ 105.9 mph
96 GSX --> 14.49 @ 92.9 mph
and author
of Minnesota 3/S at: http://www.mn3s.org
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 00:38:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: horsepower calculations
Thanks for the calculations !
It's
very interesting how the real and the math world works together :
My
injector calculation sheet shows 414hp for 360cc at 18 psi of boost and
an
IDC of about 95%. 100% IDC means 436hp and therefore your car still runs
on
the safe side.
With 550cc you'd be able to produce 500hp at 18psi if the
WI system is still
able to control detonation ... and I think so
:)
BTW, my y-pipe popped off again and my rubber seal broke totally
apart. GT
PRO is creating an aluminum one for me asap because I'm not able to
go over
10psi without popping off the pipe (glued the rubber to the pipe).
Time to
do a good break job now :(
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>I
used my G-tech Pro over the weekend to take some horsepower readings
at
>different levels of boost. I thought you might want to see what
water
>injection can do. :) I've got all the data at this
link:
>http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 16:07:54 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
Hi Curt,
Nice
measurements!
> I used my G-tech Pro over the weekend to take some
horsepower readings at
> different levels of boost. I thought you
might want to see what water
> injection can do. :) I've got
all the data at this link:
> http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
The
multiplication factor you are using appears to be too low. According
to
Roger et al's dyno test in Feb, a 2nd gen with 18" wheels & 6 speed
have about a
29.55% loss. Thus the wheel to flywheel multiplication
factor should be: 1 / (1
- - .2955) = 1.419! (I too have a hard time
believeing this multiplication
factor, but that is what I calculate from the
info that Roger has previously
posted, see includes).
From include 1,
Rogers car shows a drivetrain loss of 27.85%. This gives a
wheel to
flywheel multiplication factor of 1 / ( 1 . 0.2785 ) = 1.386.
Using
figures from include 2 you can verify the factor as such: 1.386 *
188.0 =
260.56, and 261.5 * .2785 = 72.83.
Also, you can correct
for altitude using this formula posted by Jeffrey Young:
Corrected HP =
Actual HP * ((Altitude / 1000 * .042)+1)
Using this formula and
multiplication factor, I calculate HP values that seem to
be higher than I
expect (do my bleeder valve at 15psi & FIPK really give me
418HP on my
'91 VR4??). Perhaps someone can correct me if my logic
isn't
correct. Also, I guess results really depend on the weight
entered on the
G-Tech Pro (the higher the weight, the more optimistic the
result) and the
accuracy of it's setup & measurement. My current
suspicion is that the G-Tech
Pro gives optimistic (even if fairly consistent)
results.
Happy water injecting,
Ken
- ---- Include 1
-------
> Thanks for the update Roger. I found it interesting
that there appears to
> be a loss of about 30% in HP from the flywheel to
the wheels. I always
> thought that it was more like a 20%
loss.
Mikes loss was 29.55% (18", 6-Speed), Jims 29.88% (17", 6-Speed)
and mine 27.85%
(17", 5-speed). The figures before the rebuild showed a huge
loss of 34.5% on
mine but I can't say where this came from.
> HP
using the G-Tech and if so how close to those results were the dyno
>
numbers?
I got around 254hp with the G-Tech. If these are wheel hp then
this is around
397 SAE hp calculated with the loss and the correction. This
sounds pretty
accurate to my measurments but I'll redo this when I'm getting
the thing back
from my Supra friend ! BTW, his automatic Supra TT had a loss
of 21%
- ---- Include 2 -------
Of course, each car has its
own drivetrain loss (tranny oil ??). As mine is a
5-speed with 17" here are
the figures written on my sheet :
P-Wheel : 188.0kW
(252hp)
P-Loss : 73.5kW (98.7hp)
P-Engine : 261.5kW
(350.7hp, uncorrected)
Now the figure has to be SAE corrected and this
can not only be done by a
multiplication as the dyno does this upon the
measured figures. Don't ask me
what it does (Wayne ?)
For the G-Tech
figures the following page gives a good explanation how to
calculate Flywheel
hp :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9190/g-tech.html
It
works very well for manual rear/front wheel driven cars but I'm not
sure
about automatics or AWD.
Hope this helps. I'll check out with the
G-Tech when the Supra guy ends playing
with it :)
- ----
I feel
like I'm diagonally parked in a parallel universe.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 19:48:13 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
Hey everyone,
I'm glad I'm not
getting too shot down for my calculations. ;) Yes, Roger
it is good to
see the numbers come close to yours. I didn't even now you
came up
with those numbers. But, remember I was using a 20% drivetrain
loss. If our cars truly do lose 29% through the drivetrain, it doesn't
do
much good quoting those numbers to people, because it over inflates the
abilities of our cars. I feel comfortalbe telling people my car is
putting
out 410 hp at the flywheel, with water injection. Now if I
could just get
decent times at the track to back that up. My best is
13.11 with water
injection. :(
One other discovery I made on Friday
that might be of use to people. I
learned that if you buy the 1g DSM
BOV with the adapter to fit onto a 2G
DSM, it will fit the 3/S too. I
own a 96 GSX and a Stealth. You should of
seen the look on my
girlfriend's face when I walked up stairs with a 3/S BOV
in one hand and a
2G DSM BOV in the other and said, "see honey, they are
interchangeable." But the 2G DSM BOV is all plastic and leaks
bad. I
bought the 1G DSM BOV and adapter today, for the Stealth, and
the Stealth
BOV will probably make its way into the
Eclipse.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From:
"R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
>Date: Tue, 24 Aug 1999 00:38:43
+0200
>
>Thanks for the calculations !
>
>It's very
interesting how the real and the math world works together :
>
>My
injector calculation sheet shows 414hp for 360cc at 18 psi of boost
and
>an IDC of about 95%. 100% IDC means 436hp and therefore your car
still runs
>on the safe side.
>
>With 550cc you'd be able to
produce 500hp at 18psi if the WI system is
>still
>able to control
detonation ... and I think so :)
>
>BTW, my y-pipe popped off again
and my rubber seal broke totally apart. GT
>PRO is creating an aluminum
one for me asap because I'm not able to go over
>10psi without popping off
the pipe (glued the rubber to the pipe). Time to
>do a good break job now
:(
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
> >I used my G-tech
Pro over the weekend to take some horsepower readings at
> >different
levels of boost. I thought you might want to see what water
>
>injection can do. :) I've got all the data at this link:
>
>http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 23 Aug 1999 20:28:25 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: horsepower calculations
I've used a 1g DSM BOV on my Spyder for
quite some time now. The only
problem is, it doesn't have a 90 degree
bend in the bottom like the 3000GT
BOV so it doesn't sit quite right.
5th gear and sometimes 3rd gear bump the
BOV and it's noticible in the
shifter. To get into 5th I have to really
push. Did you have this
same problem? I trimmed the hose that goes to the
Y pipe to try to pull
it out of the way of the shifter and it helped a bit,
but still isn't quite
perfect.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Gendron <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, August 23, 1999 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: horsepower
calculations
> Hey everyone,
>
> I'm glad I'm not
getting too shot down for my calculations. ;) Yes, Roger
> it is
good to see the numbers come close to yours. I didn't even now you
>
came up with those numbers. But, remember I was using a 20%
drivetrain
> loss. If our cars truly do lose 29% through the
drivetrain, it doesn't do
> much good quoting those numbers to people,
because it over inflates the
> abilities of our cars. I feel
comfortalbe telling people my car is
putting
> out 410 hp at the
flywheel, with water injection. Now if I could just get
> decent
times at the track to back that up. My best is 13.11 with water
>
injection. :(
>
> One other discovery I made on Friday that might be
of use to people. I
> learned that if you buy the 1g DSM BOV with
the adapter to fit onto a 2G
> DSM, it will fit the 3/S too. I own a
96 GSX and a Stealth. You should
of
> seen the look on my
girlfriend's face when I walked up stairs with a 3/S
BOV
> in one hand
and a 2G DSM BOV in the other and said, "see honey, they are
>
interchangeable." But the 2G DSM BOV is all plastic and leaks bad.
I
> bought the 1G DSM BOV and adapter today, for the Stealth, and the
Stealth
> BOV will probably make its way into the Eclipse.
>
>
later,
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org
>
>
>
>
>From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
> >To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: horsepower calculations
> >Date: Tue, 24 Aug
1999 00:38:43 +0200
> >
> >Thanks for the calculations
!
> >
> >It's very interesting how the real and the math world
works together :
> >
> >My injector calculation sheet shows
414hp for 360cc at 18 psi of boost
and
> >an IDC of about 95%. 100%
IDC means 436hp and therefore your car still
runs
> >on the safe
side.
> >
> >With 550cc you'd be able to produce 500hp at
18psi if the WI system is
> >still
> >able to control
detonation ... and I think so :)
> >
> >BTW, my y-pipe popped
off again and my rubber seal broke totally apart.
GT
> >PRO is
creating an aluminum one for me asap because I'm not able to go
over
>
>10psi without popping off the pipe (glued the rubber to the pipe).
Time
to
> >do a good break job now :(
> >
>
>Roger
> >93'3000GT TT
> >
> > >I used my
G-tech Pro over the weekend to take some horsepower readings
at
> >
>different levels of boost. I thought you might want to see what
water
> > >injection can do. :) I've got all the data at
this link:
> > >http://mn3s.org/horsepower.html
>
>
> >
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> >http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 24 Aug 1999 12:29:34 +0200
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: horsepower calculations
Some food for
thoughts
>>The multiplication factor you are using appears to be
too low. According
to
>>Roger et al's dyno test in Feb, a 2nd
gen with 18" wheels & 6 speed have
about a
>>29.55% loss.
Thus the wheel to flywheel multiplication factor should be:
1 /
(1
>>- .2955) = 1.419! (I too have a hard time believeing this
multiplication
>>factor, but that is what I calculate from the info
that Roger has
previously
>>posted, see includes).
I don't
see why the drivetrain horsepower loss is a PERCENTAGE of the POWER
generated
by the engine.
I agree that it would fluctuate a little (caused by
increased friction), but
not that much.
If the value is given as a
percentage of the STOCK horsepower, I would
agree.....but a drivetrain
loss
that is a DIRECT function of the power generated......doesn't compute
right.
I know as a fact that in a TTZ, the drivetrains loss is about 20%
of the
STOCK horsepower (300 HP), but stays the same when you increase the
power
output up to 550 HP....and I don't really see WHY my Stealth, even if
it's
an AWD, should be different.
Any ideas ??
Henri
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------------------------------
End
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