--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #258
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest
Sunday, August 15 1999 Volume 01
: Number
258
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 14:46:41 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Kudzus -- never mind
As luck would have it, I found the Le
Mans results immediately after I
sent the message.
As Emily would say,
"never mind."
Thanks anyway. I know one of you woulda found
it.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 16:23:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Upgrading brakes -proportioning valve-
(posted this one before,
but didn't hear anything)
Hello folks!
I know that
the subject of brake upgrades has been a popular one in the
past, with
various reviews of various set-ups.
Most recently, the Porsche 993 bi-turbo
set-up has been considered a popular
alternative.
One of the
complaints about the braking systems of the 3/S cars has been the
lack of
support of the rears in assisting the stopping of the vehicle.
Has anyone
considered using an other-than-OEM proportioning valve for our
cars?
A
portion of the following web page discusses changing out stock Porshce
proportioning valve with the one from a 993 bi-turbo:
http://www.pca.org/rrr/tech/faq14.htm
If
this could be done to our 3/S cars, wouldn't this help slow these fat
hogs
down? ;)
What do you think?
Regards,
Dennis
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 13:43:41 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Upgrading brakes -proportioning valve-
The proportionaing valve is only
one part of the equation and actually comes
into play after other steps have
been taken.
Think about this extreme case: 100% braking applied to
the rear with 100%
weight transfer to the front. That'd be pretty
ineffective. Obviously this
is not reality but it illustrates the
point. Proportioning valves only help
if weight transfer is also under
control. You WANT the brakes carrying the
most weight doing a
proportional amount of the work. Most of the weight
under braking is
carried by the front of the car. To get the rear end doing
more braking
you don't want to make them brake harder (they'll lock up
sooner _reducing_
overall braking effectiveness) without making sure they
are carrying more of
the weight. Even then you want to make sure everything
is in
proportion.
The key to good braking (other than the obvious - good pads,
rotors and
calipers) is to first get the suspension balanced properly, the
weight of
the car reduced if possible, then worry about
proportioning.
There are after market cockpit adjustable proprtioning
valves available. I
have even seen computer controlled proportioning
valves described which
adapt as Gs change. These may even have found
their way into consumer cars.
Dunno but it seems
logical.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dennis G.
> Bretton
> Sent: Saturday, August 14, 1999 1:24
PM
> To: TEAM 3S List
> Subject: Team3S: Upgrading brakes
-proportioning valve-
>
>
> (posted this one before, but
didn't hear anything)
>
> Hello
folks!
>
> I know that the subject of brake
upgrades has been a popular
> one in the
> past, with various
reviews of various set-ups.
> Most recently, the Porsche 993 bi-turbo
set-up has been
> considered a popular
>
alternative.
>
> One of the complaints about the braking systems of
the 3/S cars
> has been the
> lack of support of the rears in
assisting the stopping of the vehicle.
>
> Has anyone considered
using an other-than-OEM proportioning valve for our
> cars?
> A
portion of the following web page discusses changing out stock Porshce
>
proportioning valve with the one from a 993
bi-turbo:
> http://www.pca.org/rrr/tech/faq14.htm
>
>
If this could be done to our 3/S cars, wouldn't this help slow these fat
>
hogs down? ;)
>
> What do you think?
>
>
Regards,
> Dennis
>
>
>
_______________________________________________________________
> Get Free
Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 17:39:13 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: I need some help figuring what I have
Well here is my
status. I bought a car which had been in an accident and
had a NY
police sticker on the front windshield. As far as I knew it
was
stock. I came to a huge surprise. I drove it and the
turbo's kicked in at
1800 rpms and were at 16 on the boost gauge by
2300-2400 rpms. It held this
straight through 6000 rpms. How can
I tell if the turbo's have been
upgraded, chip upgraded, and or
injectors? I never expected this but boy
was I in for a surprise.
The car is really wicked. Thanks for any info.
Joshua
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 16:43:23 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrading brakes -proportioning valve-
>One of the
complaints about the braking systems of the 3/S cars has been the
>lack
of support of the rears in assisting the stopping of the vehicle.
The
folks at Porterfield say that by using a better pad in the rear, it
will
increase braking back there.
I may try that next, after I make sure my
fronts are up to snuff.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop
me!
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 00:03:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrading brakes -proportioning valve-
I for myself would not
touch the proportioning stuff as I just don^t know
who the stuff acts in a
emergency situation. Maybe good, mabye bad. Even
more, making changes in
these parts will cause in loosing every insurance
coverage here
:-(
>The folks at Porterfield say that by using a better pad in the
rear, it
>will increase braking back there.
I can double this ! I
furst ran the Bremsas in the front and after two
months I got the rear ones
with some better pads. The result was that the
car feels more, much more
stable during brakings into turns. before that I
felt the back moving in very
hard braking situations and this is totally
gone. Even more when running
winter tires the feeling is much better.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 00:08:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: I need some help figuring what I have
>stock. I came to
a huge surprise. I drove it and the turbo's kicked
in
at
>1800 rpms and were at 16 on the boost gauge by 2300-2400
rpms.
Therefore it has an aftermarket boost gauge installed ?
>
It held this straight through 6000 rpms. How can I tell if the
turbo's
have been
>upgraded, chip upgraded, and or injectors? I
never expected this but boy
>was I in for a surprise. The car is
really wicked. Thanks for any info.
If you have bigger injectors
there must also be a controller for it. If you
haven't foudn it yet, I doubt
that there is one. Another possibilty could be
an FCON or a ECU
upgrade.
1800 and full boost ??? No, simply not possible on a 3l with
turbos. If you
looked at the stock boost meter just forget it ! I pegs on the
top if it
uses another fuel map or so. To make sure what you really run, take
an
aftermarket bosot gauge and T it into a plenum hose. I would say
that
someone maybe isntalled a bleeder valve and the car is maybe boosting
too
high.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 11 Aug 1999 15:56:47 -0600
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@edss.com>
Subject: Team3S: Mods
Needed
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BEE412.1DB26F50
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I am currently in the process of decieded which mods I
should buy. Does =
anyone have any suggestions and parts I should
consider buying? I have =
about 1k im willing spend on mods what should
I go with. I currently =
have the stage one setup. Thanks.
-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BEE412.1DB26F50
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am
currently in the process of =
decieded which=20
mods I should
buy. Does anyone have any suggestions and =
parts
I=20
should consider buying? I have about 1k im willing spend on
mods =
what=20
should I go with. I currently have the stage
one=20
setup. Thanks.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BEE412.1DB26F50--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:07:22 -0600
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@edss.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Mods
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEE4AA.77EE6D00
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I am currently in the process of decieded which mods I
should buy. Does =
anyone have any suggestions and parts I should
consider buying? I have =
about 1k im willing spend on mods what should
I go with. I currently =
have the stage one setup. Thanks, Ricardo.
-
------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEE4AA.77EE6D00
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am currently in
the process of =
decieded which=20
mods I should
buy. Does anyone have any suggestions and parts
=
I=20
should consider buying? I have about 1k im willing spend
on mods =
what=20
should I go with. I currently have the stage
one
=
setup. Thanks,=20
Ricardo.</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEE4AA.77EE6D00--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 20:01:27 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods
Look at www.alteredatmosphere.com (Mike)
East Coast, www.acceleratedaccessories.com
(Matt) East Coast, or www.apexvr4.com
(Indra) Phoenix, AZ; at their staging setup. All are about identical, so
it lets you progress upwards with a planned way of upgrading. Both shops
deal with the TT's and have very good prices, plus they are willing to talk with
you on what you're trying to do and how much you have to spend.
-
--
On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 10:07:22 Ricardo Cousar
wrote:
>I am currently in the process of decieded which mods I should buy.
Does anyone have any suggestions and parts I should consider buying? I
have about 1k im willing spend on mods what should I go with. I currently
have the stage one setup. Thanks, Ricardo.
>
HotBot - Search
smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 17:02:51 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
More WI results (temperature)
Building the 3D map on the ERL WIS is not
the easist thing and hey, our cars
need a lot of water.
I'm stuck at
the moment because I'm awaiting larger jets from the UK (a full
set for free
!) as well as I have to increase water pressure from more flow.
My
intensive test runs yesterday showed a significant decrease in knock
after
the adjustables where set at their max level. But knock was still
there and I
will go on soon. During my tests I did some temperature tests
with a wire
prope just infront the TB. Here some important results :
1. without WI :
144°F max (almost 20°F more than Brads FMIC setup)
2. WI test 1 : 122°F
(calculated curve)
3. WI test 2 : 121°F (slightly adjusted curve)
4. WI
test 3 : 112°F (full water delivery with what is available at
the
moment)
All the tests are replicable and show the very same
results even with an
ambient temp change of 15°F from day to evening. There
is absolutely no
difference infront the TB then.
With the WI I felt an
immediate better response of the car and I think this
is due to the denser
air. Switching the WI off felt like the car took longer
to climb the rpms.
Knock was cut in half at 15.5psi boost but still there.
No retard anymore
with an amount of about 18 compared to over 30 to 45
before.
Please
note, my current setup consits of one water jet inserted in the
y-pipe at the
front head and a larger jet in the y-pipe right after the BOV
outlet. The
first one adds intercooling (do I really need a FMIC) while the
second one
controls detonation.
More to come soon...
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 17:52:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: IC
Temperatures (we have to do something)
During my tests I noticed that the
small metallic intercooler pipe mounted
to the front head is getting damn hot
! This is why I mounted one of the
jets to this location. But the pipe is
getting 185°F hot !! This because it
is mounted above the front turbo as well
to the head and close to the water
hose going to the radiator. Everything is
damn hot there ! The other
metallic tube comming up from the left IC is much,
much colder.
Now, we don't know how this heat will be transfered to the
pressurized air
within the pipe and I'd say that any heat to the already
intercooled air is
bad. I therefore think that a redesign of this stuff there
should help to
reduce the heat. Adding heat shields, decoupling the pipe from
the block or
whatever may help a lot. Just wrapping the pipe may not help as
the heat is
transfered via the mounting points.
Question : Besides of
a total IC upgrade has anyone already changed the
piping there or started
thinking about a solution ? I think a proper
solution should not be expensive
as maybe only a custom pipe must be taken
and the rubber hose that connects
the two hardpipes together may be used to
connect the stuff together. Any
more ideas, drawing, design, solutions are
very welcome
!
Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT (fighting the heat !)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 12:52:13 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Can't shift into third?
In a message dated 8/13/99 11:32:09 AM Central
Daylight Time,
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
writes:
<< Someone posted awhile back on the shifter linkage
control arm (under the
blow off valve)
At this location the
roll pin occasionally becomes unadjusted...it sticks
out too
far
and you consequently cannot get into third gear in particular.
Realign the
parts and
secure the roll
pin.
Best
Darc
>>
That was me who posted to check your shifter
linkage control area; the
roll pin was sticking out too far and became an
"obstruction" preventing me
from shifting into 2nd and 4th. gears (1st.
generation VR4 - 5 speed
transmission with only 12,000 miles -previously
replaced under warranty). I
highly advise to check this area out; BUT
you ARE under warranty - so if you
want a NEW Transmission (assuming if you
beat on your current 17K
transmission) simply take your car into the
Mitsubishi dealership and chances
are the Service dept. will assume your
transmission is shot therefore they
will issue you a new transmission UNDER
warranty. lol.......I'm sorry but
since Mitsubishi seems to SHAFT us
whenever we go to the service dept. (and
expect us to pay about $6,000 for a
new transmission when we are out of
warranty) MIGHT as well SHAFT them and
get a new Transmission!!!!!!!!
Good luck!
Ahmed
"AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer,
Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod,
K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, Magnecore
8.5mm wires & new NGK spark
plugs gapped at .032, Apex'i New liquid
crystal Super AFC (not installed
yet), KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme
NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Enkei RP-O1 17x9
(42mm offset) racing wheels &
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (not installed
yet). Coming soon: Turbo upgrade,
550cc. injectors & HKS
fuel pump (hopefully all will be installed before
Sept. 12th &
18th.)
&
1987 Grand National (for sale): way too many mods to
list!
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 15 Aug 1999 16:13:57 EDT
From: TigERdadDi@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension Question
I have a 92' Stealth NA that was simply way to high
off the ground, so I
wanted to lower it only I couldn't find any springs
that lowered the car more
than 1.75 inches wich just didn't look like it
would be enough with my 16
inch KMC High Groove's, and 225/50/R16 Falken
Zieks. You can see a picture
of my car before and after I
lowered it by heating the base of the springs
with a blow torch. I want to
replace the struts if i can with shorter and
tighter struts and then mabey
leave the heated springs on, because it
actually road ok before the struts
went out. Anybody have any advice for me
or know where I can look for a
suspension fix for the front on my car under
300 dollars? or 500?
For
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #258
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