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Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #257
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Team3S Digest
Saturday, August 14 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
257
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:48:10 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
So then, what brand of gas do you all
recommend to use? I religiously use
chevron, and on occasion
amoco...
Carlos
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, August 13, 1999 11:57 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas & Oil
Level
>-----Original Message-----From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>>1)
Does the brand (Mobil, Shell) of gas one uses matter?
>>I am curious
because I heard different companies use different
>additives
>>in
their gas. What are these additives, what do they do, and do
they
>>matter significantly?
>>I have been using Shell since I
got my car 2 months ago and I was
>using it
>>in my Eclipse GS-T
for the past few months (got a Shell gas card &
my
>gas
>>there is discounted).
>
>The brand of gas
matters less than the gas station at which you buy
>it! Go to
several different Shell stations, and note how well your
>car
runs... Stations are famous for cutting corners by mixing good
>gas
with mediocre..., adding water to the tanks, etc, etc... Every
>once
in a while, go to a station that sells another brand of gas--
>often you
can feel the difference in performance.
>
>It appears that additives
are soon to be a moot point-- here in
>California, they have finally
been banned, because it's been
>determined that the stuff kills
people! Other states will
follow
>quickly...
>
>
>>2) How many qts of oil go in
a 2G VR4? My mechanic put 5 qts of oil
>in
>>before checking the
dipstick and saying it was OK. I used Mobil 1
>10w-40
>>and a
Mobil 1 filter.
>
>5.2 qts. Many guys on the list have
recommended Mobil-1 with the
>stock filter; the Mobil-1 filter isn't so
hot...
>
>
>>For some reason the oil runs all along my
dipstick when I check the
>oil.
>>Im thinking maybe there is some
oil in the shaft that the
dipstick
>goes
>>down?
>
>After hard driving, there
will be some oil in the dipstick shaft...
>That's why mechanics always
wipe off the stick first, then insert it
>back to get a true
reading. It shouldn't be way up on the dipstick,
>though...
that would indicate foaming and that a problem may
exist...
>
>
>>I have been noticing a gas smell sometimes
while driving, but I'm not
>sure
>>if I'm just sucking in fumes
from the car in front of me or if there
>is
a
>>problem.
>
>In a recent study, it was determined that
the pollution levels inside
>any car were up to 10 times worse than
outside the car. Unless you're
>travelling at high speed, or it's
cold, leave the windows open some
>(the survey suggested always leaving
them open a bit...).
>
>Forrest
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:51:51 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
So then, what brand of gas do you all
recommend to use? I religiously use
chevron, and on occasion
amoco...
Carlos
>>The brand of gas matters less than the
gas station at which you buy
>>it! Go to several different Shell
stations, and note how well your
>>car runs... Stations are
famous for cutting corners by mixing good
>>gas with mediocre...,
adding water to the tanks, etc, etc... Every
>>once in a while,
go to a station that sells another brand of gas--
>>often you can feel
the difference in performance.
sorry about quoting the whole
post ^_^
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 15:05:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
Thanks for the info, Bob. I have a few
questions/comments:
> often you can feel the difference in
performance.
I'll check out the Mobil gas station next fill-up.
Unfortunately, I've
never driven another VR4 so not sure how performance
measures up:)
> determined that the stuff kills people! Other
states will follow
How so?? The fumes?
> stock filter; the
Mobil-1 filter isn't so hot...
Dude, I spent $10 on the Mobil 1 filter!
And I know price is not always
indicative of quality, but I also read this
individuals analysis on
various filters:
http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html
Actually,
it looks like the site has been taken down, but he basically
bought all these
filters, cut them open and did an analysis on them. As
far as OEM filters go,
they were just relabled FRAM filters or something.
> back to get a
true reading. It shouldn't be way up on the dipstick,
>
though... that would indicate foaming and that a problem may
exist...
How can I tell if the engine oil is foaming? Any noises/smells I
should be
looking out for? There is not a significant amount of oil up on the
stick,
just enough to make it confusing to look at.
Anyways, thanks
for the advice.
Mike
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 13:12:26 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
Mike Baldwin wrote:
> Hi, these are
potentially technical (?) questions so I hope its OK
> for me to post them
here:
>
> 1) Does the brand (Mobil, Shell) of gas one uses
matter?
>
> I am curious because I heard different companies use
different additives
> in their gas. What are these additives, what do they
do, and do they
> matter significantly?
The gas is essentially all
the same (here in Western Canada there are two refineries
for all of the
Companies....the additives (about 5c per fill-up) are what make
any
difference (Chevron for example) and in most cases there are no technical
differences
between 93 at one pump and 93 at another. Impurities in the
tanks, leached ground water
in the tanks, etc, may account for some
problems, along with unsanctioned diluting
practises some stations are
alleged to employ. If you find a good brand and
station...stick with it. If
you're havbing what appear to be octane problems, try
another
brand/station.
The rest of the questions were answered previously,
although there might be cause for
concern with your gas smell. If it persists
on a daily basis (at least once a day you
get it) then start to look for the
source of the problem...leaking injectors, etc. Run a
good grade of injector
cleaner through at your next fill up for starters. By good, I
mean something
that costs more than $2.
snip
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 13:46:33 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
>It appears that additives are soon to be
a moot point-- here in California, they have finally been banned, because
it's been determined that the stuff kills people! Other states will follow
quickly...
For reference here, that's only MTBE that is currently under
serious consideration for removal - it's an additive to help control pollution,
unlike other additives such as Techron, that help keep the fuel system
cleaner. The oil companies are playing this thing up to get higher prices
- which seems to be working quite nicely.
>>2) How many qts of
oil go in a 2G VR4? My mechanic put 5 qts of oil in before checking the dipstick
and saying it was OK. I used Mobil 1 10w-40 and a Mobil 1 filter 5.2 qts.
Many guys on the list have recommended Mobil-1 with the stock filter; the
Mobil-1 filter isn't so hot...
A little overfill here. Not sure
enough to cause extra foaming, but in my mechanical classes, I was always told
it was okay to go down a quart, then add, BUT NEVER overfill - this is where
foaming / churning the oil comes into play. From all accounts I've seen
the Mobil 1 is close to the best in OEM style filters. To go any better,
you'll need to move up to a racing filter, but that would require adding an
external bypass filter assembly, but where would it go in that crowded
compartment.
'92 Black VR-4
HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:05:38 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
- -----Original Message-----From: Mike
Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>I'll
check out the Mobil gas station next fill-up.
Unfortunately,
I've
>never driven another VR4 so not sure how
performance measures up:)
Compare on YOUR car! You'd be numb not to
notice if your car feels
'good' when you're driving with one gas and 'not so
good' right after
a fill-up somewhere else... Mine sputters a bit when
it's cold with
the local Shell product... Your mileage may
vary... :-)
>> determined that the stuff kills
people! Other states will follow
>
>How so?? The
fumes?
Any leaks leech into the ground and contaminate the water
supply. But
this MBTE stuff in the water supply is a KNOWN carcinogen,
while plain
old gas is not! The other additives are mainly
beneficial.
>Dude, I spent $10 on the Mobil 1 filter! And I know
price is not
always
>indicative of quality, but I also read this
individuals analysis on
>various filters:
>
>http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html
>
>Actually,
it looks like the site has been taken down, but he
basically
>bought
all these filters, cut them open and did an analysis on them.
As
>far
as OEM filters go, they were just relabled FRAM filters
or
something.
I can't remember why, but there's 'something' missing on
the Mobil 1
filter that's there on the stock filter (which is about the
same
price, BTW). I was hoping someone on the list with a better
memory
would pipe up with chapter and verse...
>How can I tell
if the engine oil is foaming? Any noises/smells I
should be
>looking
out for? There is not a significant amount of oil up on
the
stick,
>just enough to make it confusing to look at.
You can
tell if the stick is wet all the way up to the top with normal
driving,
usually from overfilling, but occasionally from gas or water
leaking into the
oil. It doesn't sound like your case... What you've
got is dead
normal. That's why they have you stop the engine before
checking the
oil, because it does work its way up the dipstick...
F
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:17:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What are some opinions on the front mount IC?
>I've got a
first gen, and it seems to me that our bumper's opening is just
>too small
to get enough air to the accelerated accessories IC (just from
>what I saw
of it, please don't think I am trying to bash it, I think it's
>beautiful
and I am saving for one right now...). what are some of your
>opinions? do
you think that running both turbos through a front mount will
>cool intake
temps more than each through an individual side mount?
My opinion is
that the intercooler piping would become more efficient. We
know that each
bend and angle in the IC piping results in a pressure loss.
Have a look at a
picture in the manual and no more explanation is necessary
... the design is
bad on our cars. The FMIC will help although getting the
pipes into the IC
also makes some serious bends necessary :-( The positive
aspect is that the
core is much bigger than both stock ones and it's not
necessary that the
whole core faces the front. It is more important that the
IC will be mounted
close to the radiator so it will benefit from the ducting
inside the bumper.
Unfortunately a part will be covered by the crash bar but
Matt & Frank
are working on this.
To prove the design is working properly, temp and
pressure before and after
the IC must be measured. This will give us the
efficiency of the thing.
Anither thing to think about is if there is still
enough cold air available
for the radiator at the back. As far as I remember
someone with a FMIC
already saw increased water temp and is now upgrading the
radiator as well.
This would not be a solution for me.
Also note that
getting an aluminum FMIC means loosing some good weight. At
least mine from
GT PRO (too big for my car) weights as much as one of the
factory IC
does.
>(btw, does anyone know how to trick the active aero into
thinking that its
>front dam is working? mine isnt there anymore
=) )
Maybe adding a power resistor may help (simulate the
motor)
Regards
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:20:55 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What does an old timing belt look like?
Can't go by HOW IT
LOOKS.
If you purchased the car from a Mitsu place, have them
slide up to their computers and pull a run on the car. If service was done
by a Mitsu mechanic, it SHOULD be there. If not a Mitsu dealer, call the
BONEHEADS at Mitsu Non-Customer Service (ita a 1-800 #) and they can look it up,
if you talk REALLY NICE to them. You see,they get alot of irrate customers
calling about the crappy service they've been given by a LOUSY (most of them
anyway) dealer network.
- --
On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:16:57
Kevin wrote:
>I purchased my car at 74,000 miles on the odometer from a
dealer and do not know if the 60,000 miles service was done. The plugs and
wires were replaced. (mitsu plug wires are date coded 1998). I took the
inspection cover off and looked at the belt. No cracks, looks like a fresh
belt, and has a slight glossy appearance( more like satin ). Edges are not
frayed or damaged. So you guys who have changed your belts, what did the
old ones look like.
>
>Thanks,
>Kevin Schappell
>http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm
>
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- Search smarter.
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 15:36:24 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Modification :)
Here is a picture of my latest 'Boy Racer'
modification.....I think it adds
'up to' 75 horsepower and will cut 'up to' 3
seconds off your quarter mile
time. Your results may vary.
Click
here-> http://www.omega-sw.com/stealth/frj01.jpg
Happy
Friday the 13th to all.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 16:16:15 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
'94+ brakes on a pre '94
I don't have a definitive answer for you but I
can provide some information.
I have a 93 stealth TT that had stock 17"
wheels --- the smallest inside diameter is
about 14 1/2". I replaced the
stock wheels with 94 chrome VR4 17" wheels and
measured the inside diameter
at 15 1/2" the extra inch must be what allows
the larger brakes.The Stealth
uses the same rims from 91 to 96 [ see link
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.html
]. Maybe the Stealth
didn't use the upgraded brakes and the VR4
did??????????
I plan to upgrade my brakes but I now have the larger inside
diameter 17"
wheels.
Jim
berry
> I have been thinking about upgrading my brakes
to '94+ brakes but always
> thought that it would not work with my
'91RT/TT 17" wheels.
>
> I saw a picture of a '94 RT/TT and noticed
that the wheels looked the same
> as mine.
>
> I called the
dealer and they said the the part number is the same for the
> '91 wheel
as the '94.
>
> Therefore, is it possible to upgrade my brakes
without buying new wheels?
>
> The caliper are the same size, but
I'm assuming that the hangers are
> different to allow for the larger
rotors.
>
> I'm sure that I've heard/read somewhere that the breaks
won't work unless
> you change the wheels, but now I'm not sure since the
wheels are the same.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 21:30:13 -0400
From: "Michael McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compression test
Hi, guys.
I want to do a compression test
on my '91 RT?TT in conjunction with changing
the plugs and wires. The service
manual is vague on the proceedure.
First off, the manual says the engine
should be at operating temperature
when the plugs are pulled to do the test.
What they forget to mention is
that the intake plenum has to come off to get
at the rear plugs. How are you
supposed to get the plenum pulled with the
engine at operating temp without
burning the hell out of your hands or taking
so long the engine cools below
operating? Is there a "cold" PSI range that
indicates good compression?
Second, I assume that you have to disable the
fuel injectors in some fashion
to prevent them from spraying while you are
cranking the engine. The manual
again makes no reference. Is this necessary
and if so what's the best way to
do so?
Lastly, the manual is silent
on the number of revolutions you should crank
the engine in order to get an
accurate reading. Does this matter?
Thanks in advance to anyone who can
help.
Mike
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:41:09 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Going the wet way
Can you see the grin from ear to ear on my
face?? Probably not. But I do
have Water Injection on my 95
Stealth now. John Basol and I hooked it up
tonight. And gosh
darn it, it works!! I bought the Spearco 980 kit from
Accelerated. And I also bought a Predator battery so I'd have room to
fit
the tank.
I have notice a few differences between John and
me. My peek boost was only
1.28 kg/cm2 when letting the turbos spool
in 3rd gear. John was able to get
some 1.39 runs out of his.
I'll have to work on that mystery.
Another interesting note. When
my stock solenoid was out of the loop, I
peaked at 1.26, but with it in the
loop, I got a 1.28. Go figure?? We even
pulled the actuator hose
off, but could only get a 1.24.
While in drag racing mode, my 2nd gear
peaked at 1.1 and 3rd gear peaked at
1.22. I'm not sure what its going
to take to get John's numbers. He was
running a 50/50 split with
alcohol, as opposed to my set up with straight
distilled water. But
I'm not sure if that will affect anything, but its
worth a shot.
I'm
going to Rock Falls Raceway on Sunday, for some quarter mile times.
We'll see what happens. I'll probably leave the stock solenoid out of
the
loop because it cuts boost too much in the upper RPMs.
I'm also
thinking that maybe I need a 1g DSM BOV to help in the boost area,
but John
has the stock one, and he still got higher boost. hmmm???
Here is
some other stats that I really like..........
Minn 3/Sers with WI:
4
Rest of 3Si: 2
What are you waiting for?
The last thing that
I ask from the Team 3S list.... Could someone please
talk John B out
of selling his Stealth!!
later,
Curt G,
95 R/T TT
and author of
Minnesota 3/S at: http://www.mn3s.org
_______________________________________________________________
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Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 23:57:10 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '94+ brakes on a pre '94
Opps, I guess its time to change my
wheels page. Jim, the rims did change
slightly in 94 on the Stealth
TT. The inside diameter is different. Jim
Mathews can probably
back me up. I'm sure he knows that his rims are styled
slightly
different than the 91-93 rims. The 94+ rims have little grooves in
the
spiral spokes, that the 91-93s don't have.
later,
Curt G,
95 R/T
TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at: http://www.mn3s.org
>From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
>To:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>,
"Team3S
>List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: '94+ brakes on a pre '94
>Date: Fri, 13 Aug 1999 16:16:15
-0700
>
>I don't have a definitive answer for you but I can provide
some
>information.
>I have a 93 stealth TT that had stock 17"
wheels --- the smallest inside
>diameter is
>about 14 1/2". I
replaced the stock wheels with 94 chrome VR4 17" wheels
>and
>measured the inside diameter at 15 1/2" the extra inch must
be what allows
>the larger brakes.The Stealth uses the same rims from 91
to 96 [ see link
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.html
]. Maybe the
>Stealth
>didn't use the upgraded brakes and the VR4
did??????????
>I plan to upgrade my brakes but I now have the larger
inside diameter 17"
>wheels.
>
> Jim
berry
>
>
>
>
>
> > I have been thinking
about upgrading my brakes to '94+ brakes but always
> > thought that it
would not work with my '91RT/TT 17" wheels.
> >
> > I saw a
picture of a '94 RT/TT and noticed that the wheels looked the
>same
> > as mine.
> >
> > I called the dealer
and they said the the part number is the same for
>the
> > '91
wheel as the '94.
> >
> > Therefore, is it possible to upgrade
my brakes without buying new
>wheels?
> >
> > The
caliper are the same size, but I'm assuming that the hangers are
> >
different to allow for the larger rotors.
> >
> > I'm sure
that I've heard/read somewhere that the breaks won't work
>unless
>
> you change the wheels, but now I'm not sure since the wheels are the
>same.
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
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Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 00:18:17 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Update on the car...
New times tonight, considering the car was
still not happy about going WOT I
managed to get a best ET of 11.39 @
121mph.. With a best MPH of 124.06.
Considering I was using the
AC in the staging lanes and running the car back
to back I was very
happy.
Traction is still an issue.
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 01:51:07 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Selling my car, good chance for plenty of parts
I'm selling my
1991 VR-4, Blue, 69,000 miles on it. Asking $20,000
My cars pretty much done
up already. Still driveable, but I think I
cracked a piston
landing.
Here's a list of parts on the car
Apex'i AVC-R
Greddy Turbo
Timer
HKS Single tip dual side exhaust
Alamo Downpipe
Test Pipe
HKS
Fuel Pump
HKS VPC + GCC II
HKS 550 Injectors
TD04-15G Turbo's
Alamo
Side Mount Intercooler upgrade
Test Pipe
HKS Fuel Pump
HKS VPC + GCC
II
HKS 550 Injectors
TD04-15G Turbo's
Alamo Side Mount Intercooler
upgrade
Bozz Speed Full Coilover suspension
Bozz Speed Camber
plates
Paxton Fuel Pressure Regulator
KVR Cross Drill Rear Brakes
Bozz
Speed Bonnet Scoops
Clutchmaster Stage 4 Full Metal Clutch
Greddy Peak
Hold Boost and EGT tapped into Turbo hot side.
Blitz Techno Z-1 18x9 wheels +
Potenza S0-2 255/35/18 tires
Clear Corner lense and clear side markers
GTO
Rear Light assembly
Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Bozz Speed Y-pipe
Kenwood Head
Unit
Will throw in:
Bozz Speed Wing Extension and Supports
Bozz
Speed Light Flywheel
92 Engine, with heads
And I can arrange for a deal in
JE Pistons, Head Porting, Rings, Crower
Rods and the labor
involved.
Can work out a deal if you don't want the wheels or certain
parts.
I'm located in Buffalo,NY but I can deliver the car to NYC area
I
have some older pictures of it on the website below. I haven't
updated
yet. So they're not the most
recent.
________________________________________________________
Henry
Yam URL: http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/8889
Bodykit
information -> http://home.adelphia.net/~rpmmotor/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 18:31:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
ALL K&N FIPK owners please respond (gathering infos)
I'm gathering
some information about the K&N FIPK and possible stuff to find
out about
the honking goose sound and because I do not have anything else to
do, haha.
Please answer the following :
1. year of car (only turbos) ?
2.
aftermarket BOV (brand, else no) ?
3. honking goose sound ?
4. vacuum line
to BPV changed ?
5. any other stuff connected to the vac. line from the
manifold ?
6. boost controller (man/el/bleeder,brand, else no) ?
7.
aftermarket y-pipe ?
8. cured, how ?
9. anything special worth to be
mentioned ?
I'll post the findings when I do have enough
answers.
Regards
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 14 Aug 1999 14:37:18 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Off topic: Kudzus at 1999 LeMans
Sorry to go off-topic a little,
but I need to know how the 4-rotor Kudzus
from Downing Atlanta did at the 24
hueres de les Mans in 1999.
I've searched everywhere, but all I can find
are 1998 results.
To Alta Vista, it's as if the 1999 le Mans hasn't
happened yet.
I know that one of you will give me a link to a page that
has all this
stuff, so thanks in advance.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #257
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