--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #256
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
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Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Friday, August 13 1999 Volume 01
: Number
256
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 14:23:21 -0400
From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
Subject: Team3S: more
brake stuff
Ok, so i guess i'll be trying to track down Porterfield's
-never warp- Cryo
rotors.
Sorry i didn't ask the first time...but
what about pads? I was thinking
Porterfields street pads or metal matrixs.
Suggestions please...
Thanks,
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:51:23 -0400
From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject:
Team3S: Insurance
John:
Don't sell it!!! Call Progressive
Insurance and get a quote from them (for just
the Stealth). Keep your
other insurance with the current company if you want,
but don't let them rip
you off for the Stealth.
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:10:50 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
more brake stuff
Regarding VR-4 brakes: I recently ordered a set of
pads for the front
brakes on my '95 VR-4, from Tallassee Mitsubishi. I
noticed that only one
of the four pads had metal "fingers" which would squeel
when you began to
run out of pad thickness. Is this normal; or should
all pads have wear
"squeel" members?
Regards,
ptg
PS- If only one is
normally used, in what position hould it be installed?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:42:54 -600
From: syzygy@webzone.net
Subject: Re: Team3S:
exhaust mods (was: "Track exhaust")
>While heavier than stainless, the
stock piping seems pretty good (size,
>construction, etc.). Why not
just yank the stock muffler, adjustable
>exhaust and passenger side piping
and install a single, high-flow
>muffler on the driver side? This
would be extremely cheap, and it's not
>like these cars have dual exhaust
anyway. How about no muffler at all
>(just bring the pipe straight
back)? With the turbos and the cats,
>would it really be all that
loud?
My 95's exhaust is straight pipe (no mufflers) it is not too loud
at all IMHO.
It has a pleasing rumble and doesn't get loud until WOT. Of
course all cats
are intact.
The old Stealth WAS LOUD (no cats,
straight pipe) ... still not too loud, but
definately loud.
Why not
just install a single highflow ? Cause I like the look of the dual for
one...
another reason.. what would I do with the extra cut out on the back of
the
car??
Nissa
95 VR-4
Don't mess in the affairs of dragons.
For
you are crunchy and go good with ketchup.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:56:59 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Insurance
Actually, Progressive was the lowest priced one so far,
and that was more
than double what I used to pay when we had it insured in
just my wife's
name.
John Basol
System Management
Services
-----Original Message-----
From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com]
Sent:
Thursday, August 12, 1999 2:51 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Insurance
John:
Don't sell it!!! Call Progressive
Insurance and get a quote from
them (for just
the Stealth). Keep
your other insurance with the current company if
you want,
but don't let
them rip you off for the Stealth.
Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 23:51:44 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost / Knock (datalogs)
I was able to made some runs tonight (in light
rain, without WI) and
recorded about 6-7 runs. After analysing the data this
is what I found :
15psi :
All runs showed slight knock around 5700 and
up - no retard. Only up to 5
sum is shown in 2nd and up to 15 then in 3rd
gear (4th would be too fast).
15.5psi :
Knock was always higher and
peaked in double the amount in 2nd and over 25
in 3rd. Here knock started at
5500, peaked at 5700 and stayed at this level
after 6400. On one run with
knock over 25 the timing got retarded some
degrees and this is maybe the
cause knock did not increase anymore.
Some other findings :
- - The
intake temperature became lower as faster the car runned (there must
comming
in some cold air. The temp was around 77 compared to high 90 on the
first
run. I saw no difference in the knock amount due to the intake
temperature
!
- - Timing is not retarded until knock amount becomes higher than 20.
-
- On the dyno session at the beginning of this year we saw the
power
decreasing with a little more boost after 15psi. The log now
absolutely
proves this as at 15.5psi the timing is retarded under full load
(from 5500
on) and therefore power is lost.
- - O2 sensor showed figures
around 0.92V at 15psi and came down to 0.86V at
15.5psi
- - Injectors have
always been at 100% IDC
Now open for discussion :
- - temperatures of
97°F in the MAS showed the SAME results as 77°F - This may
lead me to the
conclusion that a hood scoop to the filter will not help
anything in cooling
down ! I was thinking the last hours about this and my
only explanation is
that the discharge temperatures of the turbos must be
way higher so the
cooler MAS temp does not help anything.
- - 15psi of boost IS max. for
the stock fuel system. Short runs on the track
with 15psi of boost will not
hurt the engine at all. But going higher to
15.5psi will cause knock and
leads to a retarded timing that finally loses
power at the top. This occurs
in 3rd and will occur in 2nd if boost goes up
to 16psi. This was measured
with 93 octane pump gas and for sure with high
octane race gas the problem
may be lowered.
Now, it's time to tune in the WI to get rid of the knock.
I made two tries
and found out that 60% at 15.5psi does not help. I will try
to increase
water pressure first as I'm pretty sure we have to give a lot
water to cool
the degraded temps of the turbos
down.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 17:12:32 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Insurance
GEICO does a pretty good job on rates as well.
How are you classifying your driving of the vehicles? Are you claiming a
50/50 on the Stealth. If your wife drives it the most, have them do a
different split, like 80% wife / 20% you or go even higher to 90 / 10.
Unless your record is really bad, it shouldn't have doubled just because you got
married.
- --
On Thu, 12 Aug 1999 15:56:59 Basol, John
wrote:
>Actually, Progressive was the lowest priced one so far, and that
was more
>than double what I used to pay when we had it insured in just my
wife's
>name.
>
>John Basol
>System Management
Services
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com [SMTP:RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 1999 2:51 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: Insurance
>
> John:
>
> Don't sell
it!!! Call Progressive Insurance and get a quote from
>them (for
just
> the Stealth). Keep your other insurance with the current
company if
>you want,
> but don't let them rip you off for the
Stealth.
>
> Roger
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 20:24:31 -0500
From: "Ian Marks" <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speaker replacement
Thanks to all for the advice. At least
there's one thing that's easy to work
on on these cars
eh?
>
> On my VR4 the speaker just popped right out. They
really were not held in
> place by anything. Take a small screw
driver and they should come right
> out, grill and all.
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: Ian Marks <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
> To:
stealth-3000 <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 1999 8:34 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Team 3S:
Speaker replacement
>
>
>>
>> The front speaker in
the dash is fried in my Stealth and the Service
> manual
>> has
absolutly no information about it. Has anyone replaced/repaired the
>>
speakers in the dash?
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 17:36:51 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost / Knock (datalogs)
> I was able to made some runs tonight (in
light rain, without WI) and
> recorded about 6-7 runs. After analysing the
data this is what I found :
>
> - 15psi of boost IS max. for the
stock fuel system. Short runs on the track
> with 15psi of boost will not
hurt the engine at all. But going higher to
> 15.5psi will cause knock and
leads to a retarded timing that finally loses
> power at the
top.
==================================================
If you have
access to racing gas [ 100+ octane ] it would be interesting to
see what
happens to the knocking. Lots of 1/4 mi guys load up with hi
octane and feel
safe running 18 plus pounds of boost.
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 21:29:30 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about radiator fluid.
I had my radiator replaced and the
guy put straight radiator fluid in it
without water. I noticed the cars
seems to run hotter now, does this affect
the engine running hotter?
Should I drain it and put more water in it?
Thanks for any advice.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:13:04 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about radiator fluid.
Your best cooling comes from a
mixture of water and antifreeze. Follow the
manufacturer's
suggestions. But, A friend of mine swears by straight
antifreeze.
His father's truck (1979 Ford) was given to him when he turned
16, then when
he pulled the motor to put in a V-8 we looked at the coolant
passages.
SPOTLESS.... like brand new and the truck has 160,000 miles on
it. If
it is not overheating, but just running a little hotter I would not
worry
about it. If you plan on being in traffic alot or really abusing
the
car I would put some water in it.
Kevin Schappell
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Thursday, August 12, 1999 9:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question about radiator
fluid.
> I had my radiator replaced and the guy put straight
radiator fluid in it
> without water. I noticed the cars seems to
run hotter now, does this
affect
> the engine running hotter?
Should I drain it and put more water in it?
> Thanks for any
advice.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:16:57 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: What does an old timing belt look like?
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEE510.643CDBA0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I purchased my car at 74,000 miles on the odometer from
a dealer and do =
not know if the 60,000 miles service was done. The
plugs and wires were =
replaced. (mitsu plug wires are date coded
1998). I took the inspection =
cover off and looked at the belt.
No cracks, looks like a fresh belt, =
and has a slight glossy appearance(
more like satin ). Edges are not =
frayed or damaged. So you guys
who have changed your belts, what did =
the old ones look
like.
Thanks,
Kevin Schappell
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm
-
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEE510.643CDBA0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I
purchased my car at 74,000 miles on =
the odometer=20
from a dealer and do
not know if the 60,000 miles service was =
done. The=20
plugs
and wires were replaced. (mitsu plug wires are date coded =
1998).
I=20
took the inspection cover off and looked at the belt. No
cracks, =
looks=20
like a fresh belt, and has a slight glossy appearance(
more like satin =
). =20
Edges are not frayed or
damaged. So you guys who have changed your =
belts,=20
what did
the old ones look
like.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Kevin
Schappell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead/mitsu2.htm</FONT></DIV></BO=
DY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEE510.643CDBA0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:40:48 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sorry about the HTML
Computer crashed yesterday and I had to
re-install everything!!! Forgot to
change the
settings.
Kevin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 22:39:32 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: more brake stuff
If I remember correctly, two of the pads
should have the squeal indicators.
The correct mounting is on the inside
pad.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Paul T. Golley
Sent: Thursday, August 12, 1999 3:11 PM
To:
Wallis, Gavin; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: more brake stuff
Regarding VR-4 brakes: I recently
ordered a set of pads for the front
brakes on my '95 VR-4, from Tallassee
Mitsubishi. I noticed that only one
of the four pads had metal
"fingers" which would squeel when you began to
run out of pad
thickness. Is this normal; or should all pads have wear
"squeel"
members?
Regards,
ptg
PS- If only one is normally used, in what
position hould it be installed?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Aug 1999 23:16:42 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Driver's School at Blackhawk Farms
To folks in the
Chicago/Milwaukee/Mnpls area:
Badger BMW club is holding a two-day
driver's school/open track event at
Blackhawk Farms on Aug. 21-22. We can go,
if we promise not to embarass
them too much.
Blackhawk Farms is 90
minutes north of Chicago, straight up the interstate
to Rockford.
They tell me that the novice drivers school group is closing up fast, so
if
you want to go, call Larry Boyer at 414/266-9062 ASAP. They are up to
41
students already.
If you get in, e-mail me and I'll tell you what
you need to do to the
brakes to get your car ready (not much -- for your
first event, it's a
piece of cake).
For experienced drivers, the open
track stuff starts Saturday afternoon and
runs all day Sunday.
You'll
want to get in good with Badger BMW, because they run at RoadAmerica
in
October. RA has two one-mile straights...
Hope to see some of you at
Blackhawk Farms.
I'll be in the black 94 VR4 with the big white brake
scoops.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 11:40:09 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
Honcking goose .. unbelieveable !
Some of you know that I never ever
experienced this sound on my EU 3000GT
TT.
Well, after putting the
stuff back together with the water injection
installed I'm now getting the
same stupid sound.
Therefore, it must have something to do with the way
the stuff is installed
!! Maybe just pushing the BPV 2mm in would help or
whatever. The BPV is not
getting weaker as it was out of the car for a long
time (HKS BOV) and I
installed for the government
stuff.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 12:27:10 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Torque
Hi
Today I read in a swedish paper about all WRC (rally)
cars, they have listed how many HP and how much torque the different cars
have.
All cars have 295-300 hp (under 2 liters) but they all have torque
in the range 510-550 NM !!!!
Can someone please explain how it's possible
to get so much torque out of a car with only 2 liters and 300hp.
I'm just
thinking, if we had the same hp/torque relation the "bad" 3000gt's should have
550 hp and something like 935 NM !!! (that will for sure kill the
Getrag)
Please explain!
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 08:36:49 -0400
From: "Johnson, Scott (CAP, ITS, CA)"
<Scott.Johnson@gects.ge.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about Electronically Controlled Suspension (ECS)
Hi
guys,
I have a couple of questions about the ECS
function.
My ECS indicator is flashing "Sport", and has since I
recently purchased the
car. Pressing the ECS button has no discernable
effect, and given that the
indicator is flashing in that mode, I assume that
there is a problem.
This means to me that the car is "stuck" in the Sport
mode of the suspension
tuning.
Am I correct in assuming
this?
As well, what exactly happens mechanically between the two
suspension modes.
The owner's manual is very general (e.g. the suspension
characteristics will
be set to "HARD"...).
I'm also wondering,
if there is a problem (and their must be) has anyone had
to fix this, and is
it costly???
Thanks
Scott
'93 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 08:50:26 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
pair of 95+ "projector style" Headlights
I am looking for a pair of
projector style headlights in any color. They
must be off of a 95 or
later 3kgt or stealth w/ lexan plastic covers.
301-393-8800 or meyer2@erols.com
Matt Meyer
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 15:14:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about Electronically Controlled Suspension
(ECS)
>This means to me that the car is "stuck" in the Sport mode of
the
suspension
>tuning. Am I correct in assuming
this?
Yes, exactly !
>As well, what exactly happens
mechanically between the two suspension
modes.
>The owner's manual is
very general (e.g. the suspension characteristics
will
>be set to
"HARD"...).
I don't know what exactly (mechanical view) is going on in
the struts but
the dampeners have several positions (I guess three positions
: hard,
medium, soft) If set to Tour the ECS sets the dampeners to soft and
adjusts
them with some delay if necessary automatically. With this a smooth
ride
with a good reaction in long fast turns is guaranteed. Works pretty
good. On
the circle track I only found the Sport mode useful as the Tour
mode
increased the understeering tendency a lot.
>I'm also
wondering, if there is a problem (and their must be) has anyone
had
>to
fix this, and is it costly???
Luckily the most that already had this
problem found a broken connector or
cable. Go to http://user.icx.net/~adams/strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
and have
a look. It's also good to check the rear ones if the fronts are
done.
Regards
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
>
>Thanks
>Scott
>'93 R/T TT
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:25:38 -0400
From: RJR15@daimlerchrysler.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about Electronically Controlled Suspension
(ECS)
Scott:
I had the same problem in my '91 Stealth, and from
what I hear, it is a common
one. The flashing "sport" light on the dash
means that there IS a problem with
the ECS system. It is defaulting to
the stiffer "sport" setting, instead of
"tour", and won't let you change the
mode with the dash button.
With a shop manual, you can read about how to
diagnose which ECS sensor is
causing the problem. Can any list members
help me out here? If not, I could
scan the page from my manual and
e-mail it to you. Mine was a sensor on the
front strut tower, which had
faulty wiring - they just wear out due to the
suspension travel. I had
the dealer replace the part (~ $165 from the dealer,
an hour of labor
included) but I have heard that the wiring may be repaired
without buying a
new part.
If one of the front strut sensors turns out to be your problem,
it is very easy
to do the repair yourself. These parts are accessed
under the hood, just
beneath the strut tower covers in the hood. There
is a circular black rubber
part which is held in with 3(?) bolts. Undo
the bolts and you will see where
the wiring is plugged in. Check the
wiring for signs of wear.
If nobody else has more detailed info handy, I
can provide it when I get my shop
manual from home.
Roger
Roskam
'91 Stealth RT/TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 10:08:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
Hi, these are potentially technical (?)
questions so I hope its OK
for me to post them here:
1) Does the brand
(Mobil, Shell) of gas one uses matter?
I am curious because I heard
different companies use different additives
in their gas. What are these
additives, what do they do, and do they
matter significantly?
I have
been using Shell since I got my car 2 months ago and I was using it
in my
Eclipse GS-T for the past few months (got a Shell gas card & my gas
there
is discounted).
Prior to that I used to use Mobil in my Eclipse. No
difference that I
noticed.
I am in the Boston area, BTW.
2) How
many qts of oil go in a 2G VR4? My mechanic put 5 qts of oil in
before
checking the dipstick and saying it was OK. I used Mobil 1 10w-40
and a Mobil
1 filter.
For some reason the oil runs all along my dipstick when I
check the oil.
Im thinking maybe there is some oil in the shaft that the
dipstick goes
down?
I have been noticing a gas smell sometimes while
driving, but I'm not sure
if I'm just sucking in fumes from the car in front
of me or if there is a
problem.
Thanks in advance.
mb '97
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 10:09:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Can't shift into third?
I'm having problems shifting into third
gear on occassion. It just won't
go in & it has caused me to accidently
shift into first a few times
(oops). Usually if I double clutch it will go
in, but I was wondering if
this is indicative of a problem?
The car is
a 97 VR4 with ~17k miles.
Thanks.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 16:25:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can't shift into third?
Don't hope the synchros are gone with
just 17k !!
Try to get the shifter cable adjusted. May help to solve your
problems.
Roger Gerl
93'3000GT TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Freitag, 13. August 1999 16:11
Subject: Team3S: Can't shift into
third?
>I'm having problems shifting into third gear on occassion.
It just won't
>go in & it has caused me to accidently shift into first
a few times
>(oops). Usually if I double clutch it will go in, but I was
wondering if
>this is indicative of a problem?
>
>The car is a
97 VR4 with ~17k
miles.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:30:37 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '94+ brakes on a pre '94
I have been thinking about upgrading my
brakes to '94+ brakes but always
thought that it would not work with my
'91RT/TT 17" wheels.
I saw a picture of a '94 RT/TT and noticed that the
wheels looked the same
as mine.
I called the dealer and they said the
the part number is the same for the
'91 wheel as the '94.
Therefore,
is it possible to upgrade my brakes without buying new wheels?
The
caliper are the same size, but I'm assuming that the hangers are
different to
allow for the larger rotors.
I'm sure that I've heard/read somewhere that
the breaks won't work unless
you change the wheels, but now I'm not sure
since the wheels are the same.
Any info would be
appreciated,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 08:49:34 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas & Oil Level
- -----Original Message-----From: Mike
Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>1)
Does the brand (Mobil, Shell) of gas one uses matter?
>I am curious
because I heard different companies use different
additives
>in their
gas. What are these additives, what do they do, and do they
>matter
significantly?
>I have been using Shell since I got my car 2 months ago
and I was
using it
>in my Eclipse GS-T for the past few months (got a
Shell gas card & my
gas
>there is discounted).
The brand of
gas matters less than the gas station at which you buy
it! Go to
several different Shell stations, and note how well your
car runs...
Stations are famous for cutting corners by mixing good
gas with mediocre...,
adding water to the tanks, etc, etc... Every
once in a while, go to a
station that sells another brand of gas--
often you can feel the difference
in performance.
It appears that additives are soon to be a moot
point-- here in
California, they have finally been banned, because it's
been
determined that the stuff kills people! Other states will
follow
quickly...
>2) How many qts of oil go in a 2G VR4? My
mechanic put 5 qts of oil
in
>before checking the dipstick and saying
it was OK. I used Mobil 1
10w-40
>and a Mobil 1 filter.
5.2
qts. Many guys on the list have recommended Mobil-1 with the
stock
filter; the Mobil-1 filter isn't so hot...
>For some reason the
oil runs all along my dipstick when I check the
oil.
>Im thinking maybe
there is some oil in the shaft that the
dipstick
goes
>down?
After hard driving, there will be some oil
in the dipstick shaft...
That's why mechanics always wipe off the stick
first, then insert it
back to get a true reading. It shouldn't be way
up on the dipstick,
though... that would indicate foaming and that a
problem may exist...
>I have been noticing a gas smell sometimes
while driving, but I'm not
sure
>if I'm just sucking in fumes from the
car in front of me or if there
is a
>problem.
In a recent study,
it was determined that the pollution levels inside
any car were up to 10
times worse than outside the car. Unless you're
travelling at high
speed, or it's cold, leave the windows open some
(the survey suggested always
leaving them open a bit...).
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:29:37 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Can't shift into third?
Someone posted awhile back on the shifter
linkage control arm (under the blow off valve)
At this location the
roll pin occasionally becomes unadjusted...it sticks out too far
and you
consequently cannot get into third gear in particular. Realign the parts
and
secure the roll pin.
Best
Darc
R.G.
wrote:
> Don't hope the synchros are gone with just 17k
!!
>
> Try to get the shifter cable adjusted. May help to solve your
problems.
>
> Roger Gerl
> 93'3000GT TT
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Cc: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
>
<stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Freitag, 13. August 1999 16:11
> Subject: Team3S: Can't shift into
third?
>
> >I'm having problems shifting into third gear on
occassion. It just won't
> >go in & it has caused me to accidently
shift into first a few times
> >(oops). Usually if I double clutch it
will go in, but I was wondering if
> >this is indicative of a
problem?
> >
> >The car is a 97 VR4 with ~17k miles.
>
>
> >Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:55:41 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: [Fwd:
Team3S: Can't shift into third?]
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- --------------96759A7401F07E1BD6AD0E17
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Oops..sent this Roger
only instead of the group.
Darc
-
--------------96759A7401F07E1BD6AD0E17
Content-Type:
message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition:
inline
Message-ID: <37B447F1.AB81997@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 09:29:37 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Reply-To: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Organization: West
Coast Ethnographics
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en]C-SYMPA (Win95;
I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Can't shift into third?
References: <009b01bee597$c0641740$438a83d8@RGERL012599_000.peoplesoft.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Someone
posted awhile back on the shifter linkage control arm (under the blow off
valve)
At this location the roll pin occasionally becomes
unadjusted...it sticks out too far
and you consequently cannot get into third
gear in particular. Realign the parts and
secure the roll
pin.
Best
Darc
R.G. wrote:
> Don't hope the
synchros are gone with just 17k !!
>
> Try to get the shifter cable
adjusted. May help to solve your problems.
>
> Roger Gerl
>
93'3000GT TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike
Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Cc: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
>
<stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Freitag, 13. August 1999 16:11
> Subject: Team3S: Can't shift into
third?
>
> >I'm having problems shifting into third gear on
occassion. It just won't
> >go in & it has caused me to accidently
shift into first a few times
> >(oops). Usually if I double clutch it
will go in, but I was wondering if
> >this is indicative of a
problem?
> >
> >The car is a 97 VR4 with ~17k miles.
>
>
> >Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--------------96759A7401F07E1BD6AD0E17--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Aug 1999 14:44:44 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Team3S:
What are some opinions on the front mount IC?
I've got a first gen, and
it seems to me that our bumper's opening is just
too small to get enough air
to the accelerated accessories IC (just from
what I saw of it, please don't
think I am trying to bash it, I think it's
beautiful and I am saving for one
right now...). what are some of your
opinions? do you think that running both
turbos through a front mount will
cool intake temps more than each through an
individual side mount?
Just trying to start some
discussion...
Carlos
(btw, does anyone know how to trick the active
aero into thinking that its
front dam is working? mine isnt there anymore
=) )
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #256
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