--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #252
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Sunday, August 8 1999          Volume 01 : Number 252




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 14:06:55 EDT
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: Compressor Efficiency Theory - Physics

In a message dated 99-08-05 00:37:25 EDT, you write:

<< What I don't understand is where the  300+ degree turbo outlet temp
 came from. It is well in excess of compression heating --- 1 BAR should
 double the temp from approximately 100 degrees to 200 degrees. The temp
 referred to is  three times  the input air temp. At a minimum the turbo
 outlet temp should be dependent on the condition of the  turbo --- if it's
 cold the temp should be lower etc. the heat has to come from somewhere,
 I don't buy into this beating the air concept. >>

Many years ago I took some turbomachinery classes as part of my propulsion
studies in aerospace engineering. If I remember correctly, the act of
compressing air also introduced alot of turbulence, particularly on a radial
flow compressor that we have on our turbos. The turbulence comes from
separation of the airflow from the outer portion of the vanes on the
compressor wheel. (axial flow compressors seen on modern jet aircraft are
usually more efficient but often cannot give the same pressure rise that a
single radial flow compressor wheel can)

To visualise the airflow separation on a radial flow compressor, imagine that
you are traveling along with a small chunk of air as it just enters the inlet
of the compressor. The chunk of air is traveling in a direction parallel to
the axis of the spinning compressor wheel. The first thing the chunk of air
hits is the leading edge of all the compressor vanes - the chunk is split
into smaller wedge-shaped chunks.

Looking at one of these wedge-shaped chunks as it follows a path between the
compressor vanes, we see it take a 90 degree turn and travel radially outward
towards the outer perimeter of the compressor wheel. As it does so, the
distance between the vanes increases. Down towards the root of the vanes, the
chunk of air is able to change shape to follow the initial opening of the
passage between the vanes. As it nears the outer edge of the wheel, however,
it cannot handle the ever increasing distance between the vanes - the
previously smooth airflow detaches or separates from one side of the passage
between the vanes and you get turbulence. (since the airflow is actually
traveling in a spiraling path due to the spin of the compressor wheel, it
tends to unstick from the vane that is rotationally preceeding the chunk of
air. The air remains attached to the vane that is rotationally behind it)

Turbulence is bad. The turbulence caused by separation is very bad.
Turbulence reduces the usefulness of the airflow in that the pressure is
lower that what it might have been. Instead of having smooth flowing air, you
have spinning, tumbling, and mixing action with turbulence.

Turbulence also causes heating. To illustrate this lets do an experiment:
Imagine that you have a jar or peanut butter. The peanut butter is not chunky
but is smooth since we always use a good filter (sorry, couldn't resist that
one). Grab the handle of a wooden spoon and start vigorously stirring the
peanut butter. The shearing action of stirring the peanut butter is like
turbulence - you are not increasing the pressure of the peanut butter but you
are adding energy to it. You know this since your arm gets tired.

After you stir the peanut butter for awhile it will increase in temperature.
Can you measure this with a thermometer? I'm not sure. Maybe but probably
not. If you had a sensitive enough thermometer, and you added enough energy
to the peanut butter very quickly you would see a temperature rise. The same
thing happens with air. The shearing action of turbulence causes a
temperature rise.

Is this where all of the "additional" temp rise comes from? (By "additional"
temp rise I mean the temp rise beyond what we would expect from simply
compressing the air) I'm not sure. I assume that the compressor efficiency
maps of the current discussion are for a cold compressor wheel in a test cell
- - i.e. not one connected to a turbine that is drawing heat off of the exhaust
manifold of an engine. If we are talking about a cold (same temp as the air)
compressor wheel, then the "additional" temp rise is from turbulence.

In the classes I took, I think the notion of compressor efficiency refered to
the amount of useful air pressure rise for a given amount of mechanical power
required to drive the compressor. This agrees nicely with the notion of a
topographical pressure map and efficiency/temperature relationship introduced
by Jack. We know that a given amount of mechanical energy used to drive the
compressor wheel eventually ends up in one of two forms: useful air pressure
rise or unwanted air temperature rise. The more efficient compressor gives
you more pressure rise and less temp rise.


...at least as far as I can recall from the classes I took nearly ten years
ago!

Paul Klusman
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 7 Aug 1999 11:07:09 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK Question

K&N makes a square filter replacement that fits in the stock box, but
it's only slightly better than the stock filter.  The K&N FIPK, on the
other hand, is an entire large oval cone-style unit that replaces the
stock airbox from the MAS back.  (Removing the last piece of the
airbox is a messy (but simple) affair, BTW, because there are metal
plates at the end of the bolts that hold it on to the MAS unit,
[inside the airbox] that are not held tightly in their plastic
settings.  When you try to remove the outside nuts, the bolt end
'plates' rotate inside the inadequate plastic 'keepers', and pretty
much mess up the stock airbox permanently.  Many of us have tried to
squeeze vise grips, etc, in there to hold the plates from turning, but
we've ended up cutting the bolts out completely.)  Once you feel the
performance gains with the FIPK, you'll never want to go back to the
stock box anyway...

K&N makes many other smaller cones (and, I think, one larger one), but
these are not "approved" like the FIPK is (it comes with a legal
numbered DOT sticker); the others are only rated for off-road use.

The FIPK is highly recommended.

Forrest

- -----Original Message-----From: Gabriel Estrada
<typhoonzz@earthlink.net>

>Can you tell me, does the FIPK kit fit in the stock box, or is this a
cone
>filter?  If it isn't a cone, do they make a kit with the cone?
>Thanks
>Gabe Estrada
>94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
>92 Gmc Typhoon
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>>To: Edwin Shaw <seawulf@sgi.net>
>> Edwin:
>>
>> Don't run the car without the MAS plugged in.  It *may* idle rough
>> until the computer "learns" that you have the FIPK, but it will
settle
>> out.
>>
>> If you damaged the honeycombs during the install, (and most folks
do),
>> just gently re-bend/straighten them out using a small pair of
>> needle-nose pliers.  No need to replace them.  Some people, myself
>> included, run without the honeycombs without a problem.
- -----------snipped------------


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 00:50:28 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: Water cooled intercooling

All,

In the endeavor to lower the discharge tempreature as much as possible,
has anyone tried any of the water cooled systems.  Vortech, for one,
sells such a unit, The Mondo Cooler, which will handle 2500 cfm. I
haven't read any heat load capabilities.  Check it out at
http://vortecheng.com/aftcool.html

Regards,
Lynn
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 11:31:07 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HP 9B vs 13G

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>However, we KNOW for a fact that at least one VR4 in Europe came stock with 13Gs (Roger Gerl's).

All 3000GTs in Europe (atleast Denmark, Germany, Switzerland and Sweden don't know about UK) have the 13G Turbos. I'm not sure about 91-92 but all 93+ 3K have the 13G's.

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 13:26:13 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK Question

FIPK  = Filercharger Injection Performance Kit

As it says it's a kit that comes with a filter (Filtercharger in K&N terms)
and the special adapter for each car. It's a cone filter in our case.

You can also buy just the Filtercharger for your car and this is a drop in
square filter element and fits the stock filter box.

Both work good although the drop in Filtercharger ($43) still uses the stock
box while the FIPK is a replacement of the box ($155). You can get the FIPK
for the 2nd generation Eclipse as it is the same adapter, a bigger filter
but only $98 or so.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

>Can you tell me, does the FIPK kit fit in the stock box, or is this a cone
>filter?  If it isn't a cone, do they make a kit with the cone?


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 08:40:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: ie886@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (John T. Christian)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stutter

Hi all,

Hi all,

jc>>Stutter is gone.  I replaced the plugs with stock NKG gapped to .031.
jc>>My TT is running strong again.

rg>Hmm, 0.031 is really at the smaller side. Have you already experienced a
rg>decrease in mileage ? What boost do you run ?
Roger, As a habit, I automatically write down mileage on fillups, but rarely
calculate MPG.  But at roadcourses, I ususally consume 1 gallon per 7 miles.
At Nelsons last Friday I averaged 6.5 miles per gallon.  Could be the .031
gap, but most likely the 13g's vs stock.  Normal MPG on a 700 mile trip
is 24 (suitcases, golf clubs, one lovely wife etc) and NO "foot in the
throttle".
I have a manual pressure regulator so precise boost is not possible.  I
have set it about 13psi.  However I must modulate the throttle to prevent
overboost.  ie in the carrosel, I carry speed 70-80 and exit 75-85 under
partial throttle [boost is 4-12]. BUT sometimes if I get spunky, and forget
about throttle modulation, boost will hit 23+ and I get a fuel cut reminder.
Comming out of the keyhole in 2nd gear at WOT I'll hit 14psi and speed shift
into 3rd on the front straight will take the boost to 19psi with no miss
or fuel cut.

terry> confusing ....  Is the gap dependent on the modification stage -
terry> say your at Stage 3, so your gap needs to be at .31 - .34 or
terry> Stage 1 requires a .37 - .39?
Nothing definitive, but I had misfire with some plugs at .039 after
20,000 miles with stock turbos.  Current .031 no misfire only fuel cut
at 23+psi with 13g's.  Probably .034 would be within the parallel
anode/cathode range as Roger suggests (.043-.008=.035) and not miss under
high boost conditions.

jc>>The old plugs had only 20k on them.  Don't remember the original gap, but
jc>> it would have been less than stock[.043] and more than .030.  They
jc>> measured .038-.033.  The color was odd...looked like a redish brown.

rg>A good source for how does the plug look like can be found under :
rg>http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark2.htm#Reading
Thanks for the site

darc> or another likely cause is if you have been running octane boost
darc> recently, which is notorious for coloring the plugs this way.
chris> orangeish, reddish, brown deposit is "normally" associated
chris> with the use of octane boosters.

AAAAAhhhhh.... Use octane boost only at road courses.
Do I hurt anything by using a booster???

chris>BTW...12.46 is very impressive for "almost stock"...no fuel system
chris> or turbo mods?
That was at Norwalk at the '97 DSM Shootout after I lost 1st place to
Xwing.  Only mods at that time were a manual boost controller, track
exhaust, and K&N.  Racing fuel    AND the cooold weather really helped.

Be of good cheer

- --
    JCZoooM  '93 Stealth TT Blue    almost stock    12.46 @109 MPH
e-mail: ie886@po.cwru.edu    www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 08 Aug 1999 09:36:22 -0500
From: "Ian Marks" <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK Question

The new filter kit then draws air directly from the engine compartment
right? Doesn't this decrease performance on hot days or is it still an
improvement over the stock filter?

> box while the FIPK is a replacement of the box ($155). You can get the FIPK
> for the 2nd generation Eclipse as it is the same adapter, a bigger filter
> but only $98 or so.

So the 2nd generation Eclipse filter pack will fit the Stealth/3000?
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 16:01:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK Question

>The new filter kit then draws air directly from the engine compartment
>right? Doesn't this decrease performance on hot days or is it still an
>improvement over the stock filter?

Unfortunately, this is also the case with the stock airbox although it only
draws the air from the front part. But the airbox is a small restriction
itselfs. The intake temperature is always around 10-15°C over the ambient
temperature.

>So the 2nd generation Eclipse filter pack will fit the Stealth/3000?

Yes, I've read this several times (the FIPK of course). The only difference
is maybe that the adapter to the MAS does not come with the two additional
mounting brackets that bolts the MAS/Filter to the fender well.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 16:41:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stutter

>I have a manual pressure regulator so precise boost is not possible.  I
>have set it about 13psi.  However I must modulate the throttle to prevent
>overboost.  ie in the carrosel, I carry speed 70-80 and exit 75-85 under
>partial throttle [boost is 4-12]. BUT sometimes if I get spunky, and forget
>about throttle modulation, boost will hit 23+ and I get a fuel cut
reminder.
>Comming out of the keyhole in 2nd gear at WOT I'll hit 14psi and speed
shift
>into 3rd on the front straight will take the boost to 19psi with no miss
>or fuel cut.

This again proves that a manual boost controller is a damn dangerous thing !
Fuel cut is not a reminder BUT it's the LAST THING the ECU can do to prevent
larger damage to the engine !!! It's also possible that the stock boost
solenoid is still in it's place and this may cause the large overboost.

23+ psi, how did you measure this ???? We found a max of about 20psi and
maybe some peak of 21 psi but never 23 with the stock turbos and
intercoolers. Fuel cut appears at 18 psi around 5500 (with 93 pump gas and
medium temps)

>AAAAAhhhhh.... Use octane boost only at road courses.
>Do I hurt anything by using a booster???

Hmmm, I do not have any experience with octane booster but I'm pretty sure
that you have had very, very high temps in the chamber. Detonation,
preignition and lean mixtures are responsible to this as well and with the
boost levels and fuel cuts you are describing you must feel very lucky for
having still a good engine.

>chris>BTW...12.46 is very impressive for "almost stock"...no fuel system
>chris> or turbo mods?

>That was at Norwalk at the '97 DSM Shootout after I lost 1st place to
>Xwing.  Only mods at that time were a manual boost controller, track
>exhaust, and K&N.  Racing fuel    AND the cooold weather really helped.

Ok, cool temps, dense air and of course the racing fuel helped not causing
any damage. Therefore you ran about 18-20psi then and the resulted time is
very possible, no question. During my engine-killing tests with the newly
installed DSBC last year, I've read 12.50 on the G-Tech pro with boost
around 18 psi. Everything higher and higher ambient temp caused detonation
and fuel cut

To be honest, I'd not feel good with such a boost behaviour and especially
not without the options to find any problems. In this high boost regions an
EGT is 100% necessary otherwise you're running the car into hell. As you
have a 93 you should also consider getting a datalogger and I'm pretty sure
that you'll find a lot knock then even with racing fuel :(

BTW, what do you mean by "track exhaust" ??

Good luck and hopefully you'll not make the same bad experience as I and
others did last year by ignoring the engines signals (plugs, hesitation,
fuel-cut)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 16:10:40 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water cooled intercooling

>In the endeavor to lower the discharge tempreature as much as possible,
>has anyone tried any of the water cooled systems.

Those systems are called Air-to-water intercooler compared to our air-to-air
intercooler. The air temperature will be given to the water that sourrounds
the pipe. An additional water cooler cools then the water. Both systems are
good and the water intercoolers are mostly used on applications with small
room available.

For additional intercooling it's a good solution but too much hassle for the
gain (if any). It then may be a better solution to upgrade to larger turbos
that have lower discharge temps at the same boost.

>Vortech, for one, sells such a unit, The Mondo Cooler, which will handle
>2500 cfm. Ihaven't read any heat load capabilities.  Check it out at
>http://vortecheng.com/aftcool.html

About two or three of my Camaro buddies have installed it for cooling the
compressor outlet and have been able to reduce the timing retard afterwards
that resulted in a real gain. I also read from an older Nissan Silvia that
had no intercoolers and with the help of the "small" system they could crank
up bosot from 7 to 9 psi.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 10:49:19 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stutter

In a message dated 8/8/99 7:40:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
ie886@cleveland.Freenet.Edu writes:

<< BUT sometimes if I get spunky, and forget
 about throttle modulation, boost will hit 23+ and I get a fuel cut reminder.
  >>

Excellent post, John!

    I am curious; How are you able to hit 23 psi of boost?  Do you have an
HKS VPC?  I experience fuel cut at anything close to 18-20psi in Cold weater
(I do NOT have the VPC and have yet to install my new Apex'i Super AFC as
soon as I get my VR4 back from the body shop); In hot weather I may be able
to hit 20psi with no fuel cut. 

Thanks in advance,

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, Magnecore 8.5mm wires & new NGK spark
plugs gapped at .032, Apex'i New liquid crystal Super AFC (not installed
yet), KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme
NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) racing wheels &
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (not installed yet).
&
1987 Grand National (for sale): way too many mods to list! 
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 10:05:53 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks (and post mortem on the tranny)

Thanks to all you S/3K and Miata owners/drivers who offered your comments.
I appreciate your input.

And an update on the tranny: Matt and Vineet (sp?) were correct in
identifying the culprit.  The damage in my case was a bit extreme, the 5th
gear nut having punched a hole through the end cap as it backed itself
completely off the shaft.  The final tally is about $330, which includes
replacing the nut, end cap, one of the gears in the 5th gear assembly,
tranny fluid change, and a 30 mile flatbed trip from my house to the car
doctors'.

Morals of the story: 1) if you're tranny shifter knob starts bouncing back
and forth when you get on and off the gas in 5th gear, take off the front
passenger tire and splash guard, remove the tranny end cap, replace the nut,
and reassemble; and 2) when you ask for advice from this group, act on it
sooner rather than later.  I could have saved myself about $100 or so if I'd
followed Matt's instructions the first time he offered them.  ;)

Once again, I'm glad this group exists.  Thanks for your help.

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES (soon to be whole again!)
stealth@kiva.net

To the optimist, the glass is half full.
To the pessimist, the glass is half-empty.
To the engineer, the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
The pragmatist, being thirsty, drinks the water.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 11:06:14 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Track exhaust";  Was  (Stutter)

In a message dated 8/8/99 9:42:27 AM Central Daylight Time, robby@freesurf.ch
writes:

<< BTW, what do you mean by "track exhaust" ?? >>

Hi Roger & John,

    I already responded to John a few minutes ago (without reading Roger's
response - still catching up to all my email messages!)  with a short post
re: this thread.

    I would assume what John meant with "track exhaust" is that he dumped his
exhaust straight from his turbos (NO downpipe) or downpipe into the
atmosphere (NOT street legal and I would assume pretty loud and quite
dangerous with the excessive heat build up under the vehicle).  Definitely
would help with 1/4 mile track times!  I use this method with my 1987 Buick
Regal Grand National (Downpipe with test pipe & dump - NOT street legal- only
for Track purposes  ;-)
    So could you imagine how much quicker your 1/4 mile time would be if you
dump straight from the turbos?!! (removal of stock downpipe)  Very dangerous
with all that heat build up under the vehicle!
    As for the high boost levels, I agree with you Roger!  That's just asking
for a time bomb to explode!  John, I would highly advise you to monitor your
engine via EGT gauge!  Running that high of boost (23+) is definitely
risky!!!  Good luck!!!!!

Talk to you soon,

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, Magnecore 8.5mm wires & new NGK spark
plugs gapped at .032, Apex'i New liquid crystal Super AFC (not installed
yet), KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme
NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) racing wheels &
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (not installed yet).
&
1987 Grand National (for sale): way too many mods to list! 



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 17:48:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Track exhaust";

Yes, a "track" exhaust , i.e. removing dp, really helps to let the stuff
freeflow and the stock turbos may be really able to produce the 23psi then.
Of course the pre cats should be gutted too as the rear one is not easy to
be removed !

I agree with the high temps then especially close to the transfer case and
the fron plastic parts.

A really good track exhaust would be :

- - gutting the pre-cats
- - after market dp without testpipe
- - testpipe that is bent to the drivers side

Someone tested this already ?

Roger
92'3000GT TT

>    I would assume what John meant with "track exhaust" is that he dumped
his
>exhaust straight from his turbos (NO downpipe) or downpipe into the
>atmosphere (NOT street legal and I would assume pretty loud and quite
>dangerous with the excessive heat build up under the vehicle).  Definitely
>would help with 1/4 mile track times!  I use this method with my 1987 Buick
>Regal Grand National (Downpipe with test pipe & dump - NOT street legal-
only
>for Track purposes  ;-)


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 17:54:41 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stutter (AFC ...)

Ahmed,

>(I do NOT have the VPC and have yet to install my new Apex'i Super AFC as
>soon as I get my VR4 back from the body shop); In hot weather I may be able
>to hit 20psi with no fuel cut.

What do you think that the AFC will do good for you ? Your listing showed no
larger injectors so what have you done that you'll not hit fuel cut then ?
Do you want to increase fuel around 5500 ... just forget it. You'll get fuel
cut much earlier than you do now. Unless you've larger injectors installed
you can only set the mixture leaner and we know that this doesn't help to
get rid of hesitations and fuel cut. An AFC without larger injectors is a
waste of money (my very own experience !)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 12:08:59 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Pictures of carbon fiber hood

All:

I just took some digi picturs of my carbon Fiber Hood and would like to send
them to anybody who is interested in buying it.  I know a few of you
e-mailed me asking for pictures, but I lost your letters.  So, drop me an
e-mail and I will reply with the pictures some time today.  Once again, it
is brand new and it is for sale for $900 firm. I also have a fiberglass
erebuni Shogun front bumper for sale for $400 that can be seen at
www.spoilers.com

Serious inquires only please.....


Matt



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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 8 Aug 1999 14:19:17 -0400
From: "Accelerated Accessories" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Diamond Star t shirts for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0245_01BEE1A9.001D5EC0
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I still have some diamond star zum T shirts left (Large and x Large). =
They are 100% cotton and have a pic of a nice red 3000GT on them.  If =
anyone is interested drop me an e mail or give me a call at =
301-393-8800.  The shirts can be seen at www.AcceleratedAccessories.com  =
They are $14.99 plus shipping.  Visa and Mastercard Accepted.
=20
Matt

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I still have some diamond star zum T =
shirts left=20
(Large and x Large). They are 100% cotton and have a pic of a nice red =
3000GT on=20
them.&nbsp; If anyone is interested drop me an e mail or give me a call =
at=20
301-393-8800.&nbsp; The shirts can be seen at <A=20
href=3D"http://www.AcceleratedAccessories.com">www.AcceleratedAccessories=
.com</A>&nbsp;=20
They are $14.99 plus shipping.&nbsp; Visa and Mastercard =
Accepted.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Matt</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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