--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #232
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest
Thursday, July 15 1999 Volume 01
: Number
232
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:45:19 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Vibrations Again
This may sound a little far fetched, but looking
at what you have done so
far, and what the symptom is, I would have to guess
it is an issue of
driveshaft balance. I just don't think I have ever
heard of anyone ever
having a problem with the balance of the driveshaft on
any car.
- -John Basol
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com [SMTP:Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 14, 1999 2:41 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Vibrations Again
For the past 1.5 years, I've been
complaining about a driveline
vibration
in my '93 Stealth Turbo during
steady speeds while in gear. I'd
like to post
my problem again and
see if I can get more help.
Symptom: Driveline vibration felt in the
seat. Seems to be more
noticeable
in the rear. Occurs while
only in gear, not in neutral. Occurs
only at
around 30mph in 2nd
gear, 45mph in 3rd, and 60mph in 4th. Vibration
goes
away when
speed is higher or lower than those indicated at each
gear.
Vibration is more noticeable when applying the gas pedal.
Work Done
To Help Fix Problem:
1. Replaced driveshaft carrier bearing
2.
Replaced tires
3. Replaced transmission output shaft and transfercase
spool
4. Inspected engine and transmission mounts (Seems fine)
5.
Inspected wheels (Seems fine)
6. Front end alignment
Things I am
considering:
1. Replace driveshaft
Any other ideas? Could it be
the driveshaft? I'm not too sure
where else
to
look.
Thanks,
Sam.
--
Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:40:40 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vibrations Again
Hey, Sam,
Well it's obvious that it's
dependent on rotation of 'something', and that
'something' is out of round,
bent, or missing a tooth, creating a 3000 pound
vibrator... It probably
won't be wheels or axles, since it's probably
something that rotates at the
SAME speed in all three of the speed/gear
problem combos. But it IS
possible... Rotational vibrations have "nodes"
or "overtones", just
like guitar strings, where a 128hz (cycle) tone also
makes sounds at even
fractions and even multiples of the primary-- (16, 32,
64, 128, 256, 512,
1024...). You can also see "nodes" when you start up a
power saw, and
it appears to "stand still" or change directions at several
different speeds
on the way up to its maximum...
In order of increasing cost, some
suggestions...
1. Find another wheel/tire in your size and
substitute it for each of the
tires, starting with the rears, and see if it
makes a difference at the
problem speed/gear combos.
2. Bent
Hub/Axle. It could be wobbling a perfectly true wheel. Jacking
up
the car and rotating each wheel with a light behind it can give it
away.
Just watch the rotating tire's shadow on a wall or something a few feet
from
the car. If it moves, there's your problem.
3.
Flywheel. SOMETHING that rotates IS the culprit.
4. Bent
Driveshaft (gasp!). Hell, I hope not... I bent my
friend's
Testarossa driveshaft doing 100 in that short tunnel on 42nd &
First Ave in
NYC, and hitting a pothole. $20k for the fix (under
warranty..., whew!),
and it DID feel a bit like you describe...
Good
luck, Sam... We're going to figure this puppy out once and for
all...!
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
<Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com>
|For
the past 1.5 years, I've been complaining about a driveline vibration
|in my
'93 Stealth Turbo during steady speeds while in gear. I'd like
to
post
|my problem again and see if I can get more
help.
|
|Symptom: Driveline vibration felt in the seat. Seems to be
more noticeable
|in the rear. Occurs while only in gear, not in
neutral. Occurs only at
|around 30mph in 2nd gear, 45mph in 3rd, and
60mph in 4th. Vibration goes
|away when speed is higher or lower than
those indicated at each gear.
|Vibration is more noticeable when applying the
gas pedal.
|
|Work Done To Help Fix Problem:
|
|1. Replaced
driveshaft carrier bearing
|2. Replaced tires
|3. Replaced transmission
output shaft and transfercase spool
|4. Inspected engine and transmission
mounts (Seems fine)
|5. Inspected wheels (Seems fine)
|6. Front end
alignment
|
|Things I am considering:
|1. Replace
driveshaft
|
|Any other ideas? Could it be the driveshaft? I'm
not too sure where else
|to
look.
|
|Thanks,
|Sam.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 13:56:51 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vibrations Again
Hey, Sam,
Well it's obvious that it's
dependent on rotation of 'something', and that
'something' is out of round,
bent, or missing a tooth, creating a 3000 pound
vibrator... It probably
won't be wheels or axles, since it's probably
something that rotates at the
SAME speed in all three of the speed/gear
problem combos. But it IS
possible... Rotational vibrations have "nodes"
or "overtones", just
like guitar strings, where a 128hz (cycle) tone also
makes sounds at even
fractions and even multiples of the primary-- (16, 32,
64, 128, 256, 512,
1024...). You can also see "nodes" when you start up a
power saw, and
it appears to "stand still" or change directions at several
different speeds
on the way up to its maximum...
In order of increasing cost, some
suggestions...
1. Find another wheel/tire in your size and
substitute it for each of the
tires, starting with the rears, and see if it
makes a difference at the
problem speed/gear combos.
2. Bent
Hub/Axle. It could be wobbling a perfectly true wheel. Jacking
up
the car and rotating each wheel with a light behind it can give it
away.
Just watch the rotating tire's shadow on a wall or something a few feet
from
the car. If it moves, there's your problem.
3.
Flywheel. SOMETHING that rotates IS the culprit.
4. Bent
Driveshaft (gasp!). Hell, I hope not... I bent my
friend's
Testarossa driveshaft doing 100 in that short tunnel on 42nd &
First Ave in
NYC, and hitting a pothole. $20k for the fix (under
warranty..., whew!),
and it DID feel a bit like you describe...
Good
luck, Sam... We're going to figure this puppy out once and for
all...!
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
<Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com>
|For
the past 1.5 years, I've been complaining about a driveline vibration
|in my
'93 Stealth Turbo during steady speeds while in gear. I'd like
to
post
|my problem again and see if I can get more
help.
|
|Symptom: Driveline vibration felt in the seat. Seems to be
more noticeable
|in the rear. Occurs while only in gear, not in
neutral. Occurs only at
|around 30mph in 2nd gear, 45mph in 3rd, and
60mph in 4th. Vibration goes
|away when speed is higher or lower than
those indicated at each gear.
|Vibration is more noticeable when applying the
gas pedal.
|
|Work Done To Help Fix Problem:
|
|1. Replaced
driveshaft carrier bearing
|2. Replaced tires
|3. Replaced transmission
output shaft and transfercase spool
|4. Inspected engine and transmission
mounts (Seems fine)
|5. Inspected wheels (Seems fine)
|6. Front end
alignment
|
|Things I am considering:
|1. Replace
driveshaft
|
|Any other ideas? Could it be the driveshaft? I'm
not too sure where else
|to
look.
|
|Thanks,
|Sam.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 15:10:47 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Post-K&N Installation Questions
1) Any of you NA owners with
K&N notice any whistling sound coming from
near the TB bypass (I'm
guessing that's what the hose that goes from just
before the TB to the lower
intake plenum is) hose? It sounds almost exactly
like the noise you
hear at idle if you put your ear near the filter
(whistling air moving into
the filter). I replaced the gaskets for the TB
and plenum when I had em
off (replaced plugs/wires at same time as K&N), and
I've checked the
connection at the aforementioned hose. I can't feel any
kind of leak in
the area (I just had the TB and plenum off), so I'm
wondering if it's the
sound of the air entering the filter echoing around in
the plenum? I'm
concerned there might be a leak somewhere, but I was pretty
careful and can't
find evidence of a leak other than the apparent sound.
2) Anyone else had
a ridiculous time getting the nuts off the studs
that hold the stock airbox
top to the MAS housing? Those nuts were on there
so tight, that when I
tried to get em off, the studs ended up spinning
(metal back just cut right
through the plastic that's supposed to keep the
studs from rotating. I
got 3 of em off (after about 30min of work) by
holding the back of the
stud precariously with Robo-Grips and using a
ratchet on the nut.
The 4th one wouldn't budge and I couldn't get a great
grip on the back of the
stud, so I ended up having to break a quarter-sized
section of my stock
airbox lid(around stud) off and attack it with a wrench
once I could
get to the side of the stud. I was very displeased.
3) And now the
$10,000 question....if one were to (hypothetically) nick
the honeycomb
structure(about 3-4 openings) of the MAS <grimace> with, say,
a
Robo-Grip that slipped off a stud, is this really bad? If the
structure
were able to be more-or-less returned to stock with the aid of
some
needle-nose pliers, is that adequate? I imagine Mitsu charges
about $5000
for each piece of the honeycomb structure:(
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base,
DOHC)
57,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85
spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
Occasionally ticking lash
adjusters, working on solution
-
------
----------
"And the end of all our
exploring
Will be to arrive where we
started
And know the place for the first
time." --T. S. Eliot
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 14:37:12 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Post-K&N Installation Questions
Erik:
I'll answer
these in order:
1) Yep - haven't seen an NT yet that didn't have a
whistle
or a "sshhhhhhhh" sound with the FIPK. Normal.
2)
EVERYBODY has had that problem. It was just your turn.
3) I
used the needle-nosed pliers and fixed mine. Then,
after about 20k, I
just pulled the honeycombs.
Rich
-
-----------------------------------------------------
"Gross, Erik"
wrote:
>
> 1) Any of you NA owners
with K&N notice any whistling sound coming from
> near the TB bypass
(I'm guessing that's what the hose that goes from just
> before the TB to
the lower intake plenum is) hose? It sounds almost exactly
> like
the noise you hear at idle if you put your ear near the filter
>
(whistling air moving into the filter). I replaced the gaskets for the
TB
> and plenum when I had em off (replaced plugs/wires at same time as
K&N), and
> I've checked the connection at the aforementioned
hose. I can't feel any
> kind of leak in the area (I just had the TB
and plenum off), so I'm
> wondering if it's the sound of the air entering
the filter echoing around in
> the plenum? I'm concerned there might
be a leak somewhere, but I was pretty
> careful and can't find evidence of
a leak other than the apparent sound.
>
>
2) Anyone else had a ridiculous time getting the
nuts off the studs
> that hold the stock airbox top to the MAS
housing? Those nuts were on there
> so tight, that when I tried to
get em off, the studs ended up spinning
> (metal back just cut right
through the plastic that's supposed to keep the
> studs from
rotating. I got 3 of em off (after about 30min of work) by
>
holding the back of the stud precariously with Robo-Grips and using a
>
ratchet on the nut. The 4th one wouldn't budge and I couldn't get a
great
> grip on the back of the stud, so I ended up having to break a
quarter-sized
> section of my stock airbox lid(around stud) off and
attack it with a wrench
> once I could get to the side of the stud.
I was very displeased.
>
> 3) And now
the $10,000 question....if one were to (hypothetically) nick
> the
honeycomb structure(about 3-4 openings) of the MAS <grimace> with,
say,
> a Robo-Grip that slipped off a stud, is this really bad? If
the structure
> were able to be more-or-less returned to stock with the
aid of some
> needle-nose pliers, is that adequate? I imagine Mitsu
charges about $5000
> for each piece of the honeycomb structure:(
>
> --Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (base,
DOHC)
57,000 mi
> Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
>
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
> K&N FIPK
(57-1500), resonator intact
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil
filter
> Occasionally ticking lash adjusters, working on solution
>
------
----------
> "And the end of all our
exploring
> Will be to arrive where we
started
> And know the place for the first
time." --T. S. Eliot
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
"If you dig it, do it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
-
Jim Croce (1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Jul 1999 23:39:28 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS Clutch update.
Hey everyone, I just spoke with Rob @
RPS.
My problem with the clutch has been taken handled in a manner that
impresses
me. Rob has in the past, and still has proven to handle my problems
first
class.
Basically the problem boils down to there being several
different variations
to the RPS clutch, including the carbon clutch. Speak to
Rob about the
details.
For those of you who have had/are having
problems with your RPS clutch give
Rob Smith a call @ 818-993-9174.
He
wants to hear your complaint to further research the RPS clutch and
attempt
to make it right with you..
Anyone want to help me change a clutch
tomorrow or Friday AM?
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 01:27:50 -0700
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Post-K&N Installation Questions
does the car actually run good with
the honeycombs pulled? when i tried it,
my car ran like crap. is yours turbo
or non??
Omar
92 r/t
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Rich
> Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 3:37 PM
> Cc:
'Team3S List'
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Post-K&N Installation
Questions
>
>
> Erik:
>
> I'll answer these in
order:
>
> 1) Yep - haven't seen an NT yet that didn't have a
whistle
> or a "sshhhhhhhh" sound with the FIPK.
Normal.
>
> 2) EVERYBODY has had that problem. It was
just your turn.
>
> 3) I used the needle-nosed pliers and
fixed mine. Then,
> after about 20k, I just pulled the
honeycombs.
>
> Rich
>
-----------------------------------------------------
> "Gross, Erik"
wrote:
> >
> > 1) Any of you NA
owners with K&N notice any whistling
> sound coming from
> >
near the TB bypass (I'm guessing that's what the hose that goes
> from
just
> > before the TB to the lower intake plenum is) hose? It
sounds
> almost exactly
> > like the noise you hear at idle if
you put your ear near the filter
> > (whistling air moving into the
filter). I replaced the gaskets
> for the TB
> > and plenum
when I had em off (replaced plugs/wires at same time
> as K&N),
and
> > I've checked the connection at the aforementioned hose.
I
> can't feel any
> > kind of leak in the area (I just had the
TB and plenum off), so I'm
> > wondering if it's the sound of the air
entering the filter
> echoing around in
> > the plenum? I'm
concerned there might be a leak somewhere, but
> I was pretty
> >
careful and can't find evidence of a leak other than the apparent sound.
>
>
> > 2) Anyone else had a ridiculous
time getting the nuts off the studs
> > that hold the stock airbox top
to the MAS housing? Those nuts
> were on there
> > so
tight, that when I tried to get em off, the studs ended up spinning
> >
(metal back just cut right through the plastic that's supposed
> to keep
the
> > studs from rotating. I got 3 of em off (after about
30min of work) by
> > holding the back of the stud precariously with
Robo-Grips and using a
> > ratchet on the nut. The 4th one
wouldn't budge and I couldn't
> get a great
> > grip on the back
of the stud, so I ended up having to break a
> quarter-sized
> >
section of my stock airbox lid(around stud) off and attack it
> with
a wrench
> > once I could get to the side of the stud. I was very
displeased.
> >
> > 3) And now
the $10,000 question....if one were to
> (hypothetically) nick
>
> the honeycomb structure(about 3-4 openings) of the MAS
>
<grimace> with, say,
> > a Robo-Grip that slipped off a stud, is
this really bad? If
> the structure
> > were able to be
more-or-less returned to stock with the aid of some
> > needle-nose
pliers, is that adequate? I imagine Mitsu charges
> about
$5000
> > for each piece of the honeycomb structure:(
>
>
> > --Erik
> >
> >
------
----------
> > Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> > '95 Pearl White 3000GT (base,
DOHC)
57,000 mi
> > Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
> > Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
>
> K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
> > Mobil 1 10W30
Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
> > Occasionally ticking lash adjusters,
working on solution
> >
------
----------
> > "And the end of all our
exploring
> > Will be to arrive where we
started
> > And know the place for the
first time." --T. S. Eliot
> >
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
"If you dig it, do it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
-
Jim Croce (1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 00:10:19 -0700
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Post-K&N Installation Questions
Omar:
It's a 94 R/T,
and it runs great - disconnect the neg. battery
cable so it resets, then it
should work fine - mine has.
Rich
-
-------------------------------------------------------
Omar Malik
wrote:
>
> does the car actually run good with the honeycombs
pulled? when i tried it,
> my car ran like crap. is yours turbo or
non??
>
> Omar
> 92 r/t
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Rich
> > Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 1999 3:37 PM
> >
Cc: 'Team3S List'
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Post-K&N Installation
Questions
> >
> >
> > Erik:
> >
> >
I'll answer these in order:
> >
> > 1) Yep - haven't
seen an NT yet that didn't have a whistle
> > or a "sshhhhhhhh" sound
with the FIPK. Normal.
> >
> > 2) EVERYBODY has
had that problem. It was just your turn.
> >
> >
3) I used the needle-nosed pliers and fixed mine. Then,
> >
after about 20k, I just pulled the honeycombs.
> >
> >
Rich
> > -----------------------------------------------------
>
> "Gross, Erik" wrote:
> > >
> > >
1) Any of you NA owners with K&N notice any
whistling
> > sound coming from
> > > near the TB bypass
(I'm guessing that's what the hose that goes
> > from just
> >
> before the TB to the lower intake plenum is) hose? It sounds
>
> almost exactly
> > > like the noise you hear at idle if you put
your ear near the filter
> > > (whistling air moving into the
filter). I replaced the gaskets
> > for the TB
> > >
and plenum when I had em off (replaced plugs/wires at same time
> > as
K&N), and
> > > I've checked the connection at the
aforementioned hose. I
> > can't feel any
> > > kind
of leak in the area (I just had the TB and plenum off), so I'm
> > >
wondering if it's the sound of the air entering the filter
> > echoing
around in
> > > the plenum? I'm concerned there might be a
leak somewhere, but
> > I was pretty
> > > careful and
can't find evidence of a leak other than the apparent sound.
> >
>
> > > 2) Anyone else had a
ridiculous time getting the nuts off the studs
> > > that hold the
stock airbox top to the MAS housing? Those nuts
> > were on
there
> > > so tight, that when I tried to get em off, the studs
ended up spinning
> > > (metal back just cut right through the
plastic that's supposed
> > to keep the
> > > studs from
rotating. I got 3 of em off (after about 30min of work) by
>
> > holding the back of the stud precariously with Robo-Grips and using
a
> > > ratchet on the nut. The 4th one wouldn't budge
and I couldn't
> > get a great
> > > grip on the back of
the stud, so I ended up having to break a
> > quarter-sized
>
> > section of my stock airbox lid(around stud) off and attack
it
> > with a wrench
> > > once I could get to the side of
the stud. I was very displeased.
> > >
> > >
3) And now the $10,000 question....if one were
to
> > (hypothetically) nick
> > > the honeycomb
structure(about 3-4 openings) of the MAS
> > <grimace> with,
say,
> > > a Robo-Grip that slipped off a stud, is this really
bad? If
> > the structure
> > > were able to be
more-or-less returned to stock with the aid of some
> > >
needle-nose pliers, is that adequate? I imagine Mitsu charges
> >
about $5000
> > > for each piece of the honeycomb
structure:(
> > >
> > > --Erik
> > >
>
> >
------
----------
> > > Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> > > '95 Pearl White 3000GT (base,
DOHC)
57,000 mi
> > > Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock
wheels
> > > Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @
0.040"
> > > K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
> >
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
> > > Occasionally
ticking lash adjusters, working on solution
> > >
------
----------
> > > "And the end of all our
exploring
> > > Will be to arrive
where we started
> > > And know the
place for the first time." --T. S. Eliot
> > >
-------------------------------------------------------------
> >
>
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
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> --
> "If you dig it, do it.
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> - Jim
Croce (1943-1973)
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Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:53:32 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Agust=ED_Rifer?="
<agusti.rifer@lasumi.es>
Subject:
Team3S: Talk of 3000GT in spanish
Search a guy for talk on spanish of
3000GT, Please helpme.
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 10:57:01 -0500
From: "John C. Davidson" <jd@edge-software.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vibrations Again
Sam...
I still say it's one of the
driveshaft U-Joints. If you can't stomach the
ridiculous price of a new
driveshaft (or the CF aftermarket one), start
shopping for a used one.
I did, and I haven't had the problem since.
-JD
> Any
other ideas? Could it be the driveshaft? I'm not too sure where else
> to look.
1992 Sandstone Gray Metallic 3000GT VR4
Blitz DSBC,
Blitz SBOV, SPI Boost Gauge, Weapon-X Intake,
Eibachs, Stillen Crossdrilled
Rotors, Metal Matrix Pads,
Borla Exhaust, Snake Eyes Mod., Volk Challenge
wheels
(Chrome w/Black Diamond lip), Firehawk SZ50 275/40zr17's.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 18:13:12 +0100
From: robby@freesurf.ch
Subject: RE: Team3S:
High Boost the easy way
> It doesn't really do the same thing as the
wastegates still see
pressure
> before you hit the correct boost
level. If the wastegate is partially
open
> early, then your
turbo isn't going to spool up as quickly as
possible.
And this is why
we are using an electrinic wastegate controller :)) The
bleeder valve mode
lowers pressure in the wastegate actuator lines and
there they open later.
Wastegate actuators with a harder spring will act
somewhat quicker then. Not
worth thinking about.
> > You don't need an EBC to have the
wastegate open at a specific boost
level.
> The best alternative to an
EBC is the Hallman controller. You can get
them
> for $90 from
Buschur Racing (http://www.buschurracing.com). It
is a
spring
> and ball type restrictor which lets the boost pressure
through to the
> wastegate when boost pressure exceeds the pressure put on
the spring.
It
> works way better than any electronic controller
I've seen and is a
lot
> easier to adjust. You can't adjust it
from the cockpit, but you get
rock
> solid boost control for a lot
less money that you can put towards
something
> more useful. If
it is good enough for a 9.59-second DSM, it is good
enough
> for
us!
Hey, you can also put in the bleeder valve in a below 10 second car
...
no problem, it will work fine. The Halman boost controller is nothing
bad and it's good for the track for sure. A (good) EBC can do much more
than a simple settable ball-spring valve and the way you can adjust an
EBC, features INCLUDING safety (where is this in the Halman ???),
scramble boost and more are the benefits you're going to loose.
Furthermore, if you only open the wastegate at one specific boost
reference level, how do you control boost in different boost situations
? An EBC may also act on boost rise and by opening the wastegate only a
little HELPS in reaching the desired boost WITHOUT too much overboost.
These are benefits you'll not have to deal with in the future as you can
set the Halman easily :))
> A Hallman is replacing my EVC IV as
soon as possible. Anyone want to
buy
> the
EVC?
Definitely not me but try the DSM parts trader to sell it
;-)
Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 11:49:04 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
High Boost the easy way
> And this is why we are using an electrinic
wastegate controller :)) The
> bleeder valve mode lowers pressure in the
wastegate actuator lines and
> there they open later. Wastegate actuators
with a harder spring will act
> somewhat quicker then. Not worth thinking
about.
I see what you mean now. When you said "bleeder valve" I
thought you meant
an aquarium-style bleeder valve that just bleeds boost out
of the wastegate
signal line. I didn't understand that you were
referring to the EBC
allowing the boost to flow back out of the wastegate
trigger line after the
pass-through valve has been closed.
> Hey,
you can also put in the bleeder valve in a below 10 second car ...
> no
problem, it will work fine. The Halman boost controller is nothing
> bad
and it's good for the track for sure. A (good) EBC can do much more
> than
a simple settable ball-spring valve and the way you can adjust an
> EBC,
features INCLUDING safety (where is this in the Halman ???),
> scramble
boost and more are the benefits you're going to loose.
> Furthermore, if
you only open the wastegate at one specific boost
> reference level, how
do you control boost in different boost situations
Sure, an EBC can do
more than a manual boost controller. The safety in the
Hallman style
controller is that it is so simple it isn't going to fail.
The only part that
can break is the spring, which if it does fail then you
are back to stock
wastegate-actuator boost levels (8 psi?). I don't
consider my EVC IV to
be good at safety because the thing spikes so bad that
I need to set the
"shutdown" boost level so high so it doesn't go into
failsafe mode all the
time. If I set the EVC to boost to 1.00 bars, I need
to set the
failsafe to 1.30 bars to let it work. That sucks.
I don't
understand what you mean by "how do you control boost in different
boost
situations". If I'm driving my car on the street, I want 1.00 bars
all
the time. To set an Overtake Boost seems dangerous to me, and
having
the temptation of a button where I can run higher boost on pump gas
seems
like a bad idea, especially since I'm a tweaker and can't help myself
when
buttons are available.
> ? An EBC may also act on boost rise
and by opening the wastegate only a
> little HELPS in reaching the desired
boost WITHOUT too much overboost.
> These are benefits you'll not have to
deal with in the future as you can
> set the Halman easily :))
From
my experience, the EBC's spike more than the Hallman style controller.
The
Hallman is also much more consistent from run to run where my EBC is all
over
the place and not very consistent. Maybe it is just the EVC IV, but
I'm
uncertain as to what other route I would go. I'm going to go back
to
what I know* works.
Is overboosting and very poor boost control
just a "feature" of the HKS EVC
IV, or do most of the EBCs do this? I
did the learn mode and I've got the
response values cranked to 150 (maximum
response, lower boost) and the damn
thing still overshoots the target by a
good 3-4 psi. If I didn't have water
injection, I'd be very
frightened. I'd be willing to try something else if
I can just dial in
the boost number and be sure that I would consistently
get that pressure
without tweaking other parameters.
I guess I'm just not willing to trust
the fate of my $65,000 sports car to a
$500 box of electronics that can't
perform its intended task adequately.
If anyone has recommendations on a
boost controller that will do what I want
(perfect boost control every time,
settable by entering a boost pressure
target only) I would love to hear about
it!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 12:56:32 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Midwest Gathering!!!!!!!
Hi all,
Dave Black and I (& wifey and
friends) are planning on departing the
Chicagoland area on Friday morning
(July 23rd) between 9 - 10am; We figured
about 5 to 5 1/2 hours travel time;
so we should arrive into the Norwalk
Raceway area around 4 or 5pm.
But we do have a few questions re: our Sunday event in Cleveland,
OHIO
on July 25th.
1) The $150 cost is for what? Is it for both
the Classroom instruction (on
Saturday July 24th) & the Entry into
Nelson Ledges Raceway? Do we need the
classroom instruction on
Saturday in order to race on Sunday?
2) By the way,
where is the classroom session going to be held? By the
Norwalk
raceway or by Nelson Ledges Raceway?
2) Will there be any 1/4 mile racing
on Sunday at Nelson Ledges Raceway? If
so, how much will it cost to
enter for 1/4 mile racing only?
3) Are spectators at Nelson Ledges
charged an entry fee to watch? If so, how
much?
It's CRUNCH
time! We are looking forward to meeting about 25 - 30 (is that
right?)
of us 3Si members this weekend! It will be great to finally place
the
faces to all the email addresses! LOL.
Looking forward to a
great weekend!
Talk to you all soon,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 15 Jul 1999 13:49:56 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Boost the easy way
Matt...
A couple observations
from a GReddy PRofec A boost controller owner. My
GReddy NEVER overboosts, at
least not as displayed on the LED readout. This
was true when it was my first
and only mod, and it is true after two years
and many mods. When the GReddy
was set to 1.0 bar, the boost would go to 1.0
and not beyond. When I had 9Bs,
it would drop off rapidly as I reached
higher revs. Now, I keep it set at 1.3
bar, with the OTB at 1.5 bar. Again,
it goes to the indicated level, then
drops. The biggest difference is that
it holds the indicated boost longer.
What the GReddy doesn't allow is
adjustment of gains and ratio like some of
the others do. It appears, from
what I've seen posted, that the Blitz is
still the most popular BC, but also
overboosts. Finally, I don't know that
there's anything wrong with a manual
BC, but it does provide less
flexibility. If I choose to drop back to 1.0
bar and reduce the strain on the
15Gs, I can do that from the glove box.
The fact that you're getting 3-4
psi overboost strikes me as odd, have you
checked all the connections and
your setup?
Good luck!!!
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and
polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A
boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX
MXX3 Pilots)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
Sent: Thursday,
July 15, 1999 9:49 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High Boost the easy way
<snip>
I don't understand
what you mean by "how do you control boost in different
boost
situations". If I'm driving my car on the street, I want 1.00 bars
all
the time. To set an Overtake Boost seems dangerous to me, and
having
the temptation of a button where I can run higher boost on pump gas
seems
like a bad idea, especially since I'm a tweaker and can't help myself
when
buttons are available.
<snip>
Is overboosting and very
poor boost control just a "feature" of the HKS EVC
IV, or do most of the EBCs
do this? I did the learn mode and I've got the
response values cranked
to 150 (maximum response, lower boost) and the damn
thing still overshoots
the target by a good 3-4 psi. If I didn't have water
injection, I'd be
very frightened. I'd be willing to try something else if
I can just
dial in the boost number and be sure that I would consistently
get that
pressure without tweaking other parameters.
<snip>
If anyone has
recommendations on a boost controller that will do what I want
(perfect boost
control every time, settable by entering a boost pressure
target only) I
would love to hear about it!
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #232
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