--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #227
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Friday, July
9 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
227
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 17:02:13 -0500
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Track times
Got a question about track times. The 3000 GT
is not my daily driver,
normally my wife drives it so I am not the best
manual transmission driver
in the world. With that tid-bit out of the
way, what types of track times
can i expect to run in the 1/4 mile on a stock
VR-4? I took it to our local
track and my times were horable.
Granted it was hot, my Typhoon was running
mid 13's in 98 degree
weather. I did 3 runs in the VR-4
first run 16.587 @
87 mph
second run 15.785 @ 93 mph
Third run 15.012 @ 96
mph
What is the best way to launch at the track? I was dumping the
clutch at
3500 rpm and it was very slow out of the hole. What am I
doing wrong?
Thanks in advance
Gabe Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow 3000 GT
VR-4
92 Black GMC Typhoon
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 18:20:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: [stealth] Weapon-R Deal! (fwd)
This came from Amir. I
posted it here, as it might be of use.
The Weapon-R is yet another foam
filter.
Though, I have to admit, this one is probably better looking than
most. :)
Regards,
Dennis
- ----------
Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:46:07 -0500
From:
Amir Shaikh <shakham@cig.mot.com>
Reply-To: stealth@dragnet.com
To: stealth@dragnet.com
Subject: [stealth]
Weapon-R Deal!
Hello all,
Weapon-R filter (your choice of colours)
for $85 at Buschur Racing
(www.buschurracing.com).
I called
to pick up a K&N Aircharger. They were on severe back order
with
K&N so they negotiated a deal with Weapon-R to offer it at the
same
price. Normally they sell it at $125.
I don't get anything
for this endorsement, just thought I'd let you guys
know about it. I
ordered mine but haven't gotten it yet.
later,
Amir
- --
[ You are subscribed to the stealth@dragnet.com e-mail list. If
you wish
to unsubscribe, send a NEW message to 'stealth-request@dragnet.com'
with
a SUBJECT of "REMOVE". If you need help with getting the digest
version,
setting flags, or other commands, instead use a subject of
"HELP".]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 17:40:33 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Track times
13.5-13.8@99-101 for the 94+'s. Best way for me to
launch is to rev to 5000 and dump it.
Trevor
96 R/T TT 13.52@101.1 w/K&N
91 R/T TT 14.03@99
Stock
Gabriel Estrada wrote:
> Got a question about track
times. The 3000 GT is not my daily driver,
> normally my wife drives
it so I am not the best manual transmission driver
> in the world.
With that tid-bit out of the way, what types of track times
> can i expect
to run in the 1/4 mile on a stock VR-4? I took it to our local
>
track and my times were horable. Granted it was hot, my Typhoon was
running
> mid 13's in 98 degree weather. I did 3 runs in the
VR-4
> first run 16.587 @ 87 mph
> second
run 15.785 @ 93 mph
> Third run 15.012 @ 96 mph
>
What is the best way to launch at the track? I was dumping the clutch
at
> 3500 rpm and it was very slow out of the hole. What am I doing
wrong?
> Thanks in advance
> Gabe Estrada
> 94 Pearl Yellow
3000 GT VR-4
> 92 Black GMC Typhoon
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 18:54:43 -0400
From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost Levels and Fuel Mods
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC973.5787EB60
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I think we all know that the maximum boost our cars can
safely produce =
with the stock fuel system is 15 psi.
What boost
levels can we work with as we upgrade our fuel systems? For =
example: if we
upgrade our fuel pump to, lets say, an in-tank HKS =
high-flow fuel pump, and
we get 550cc injectors (along with the hardware =
neccessary to control the
new injectors, like a vpc)... what kind of =
boost levels could a vr4
reach?
Also, would more efficient intercoolers (any suggestions?) combat our
=
fuel problem by lowering cylinder temp?
One more question: I know that
when we are lightly modified and we start =
off by raising our boost levels
to 15lbs, we should regap our plugs to =
.34.... would it be better to
upgrade the ignition system? I know some =
people have mentioned that they
have HKS twin power for their ignition =
system, does this
work?
Thanks,
Carlos
-
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC973.5787EB60
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I think
we all know that the maximum =
boost our=20
cars can safely produce with
the stock fuel system is 15
=
psi.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2> What boost levels can we work =
with as
we=20
upgrade our fuel systems? For example: if we upgrade our fuel pump to,
=
lets say,=20
an in-tank HKS high-flow fuel pump, and we get 550cc
injectors (along =
with the=20
hardware neccessary to control the new
injectors, like a vpc)... what =
kind of=20
boost levels could a vr4
reach?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Also, would more efficient =
intercoolers
(any=20
suggestions?) combat our fuel problem by lowering cylinder
=
temp?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>One more question: I know that when =
we are=20
lightly
modified and we start off by raising our boost levels to 15lbs,
=
we=20
should regap our plugs to .34.... would it be better to upgrade
the =
ignition=20
system? I know some people have mentioned that they have
HKS twin power =
for=20
their ignition system, does this
work?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Carlos</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BEC973.5787EB60--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 16:10:06 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
FW: Team3S: Service Manuals On CD
Robert...
Sorry, I can't help
with your problem from here at work, but if you want a
handy version of the
manuals after you've received those gold plated ones,
here's a low cost
back-up. This is not a sales pitch, I have the factory
manuals and Vineet's
CD...I like them both, but it's easier to search for
specifics on the CD,
then print what you need. Then, when you want to write
notes, you don't have
to worry about that gold plating. Good luck!!!
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vineet Singh [mailto:billi_gates@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 1999 11:24 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Service Manuals On CD
Since it was mentioned but "forgotten", I
thought I'd give out the URL
again. Thanks for the great response so
far!
Backup Service Manuals ON CD are available at,
http://manualcd.dsm.org/ for $35 ($40 if out
of the US/CAN)
Thanks!
Vineet Singh
DSM & 3/S Manuals on CD
- http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T
- http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 19:12:37 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine and Transaxle oil change
>> Personally, I swear by the Fram
oil filters - inexpensive, and they seem
>to
>> work really
well.
All-
I have been using Fram automotive filters exclusively
for 51 years,
and have never had a problem with any (oil, air, fuel, pvc,
etc); in race,
sports or road (street) cars. Some have less stress
margins
than OEM filters, but they meet all specs for OEM designs. In
the
case of Mitsubishi (VR-4) filters, they meet all OEM specs, and
cost
about one third as much. So I'll stick with them.
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 20:45:41 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Track times
If you're gonna dump the clutch, you'll have to go
much higher than 3500 rpms. Most
people frown against dumping the
clutch because of the strain it can put on the trans,
but you will get your
best/most consistent times that way. At 88k miles (even on my
plugs and
wires) with only a filter for mods I was able to get a 13.64 by slipping
the
clutch off the line. It takes alot more skill to slip it perfectly
and I probably could
have done better. With dump clutch launches I
was able to turn a 13.36@102.54 and
beleive
it or not it spun a little too much off the line. You'll be lucky if the
clutch
will not slip at least every now and then when you dump the
clutch. If it's hot and
sticky at the track, you'd be best to pull
through the water and NOT do a burnout. If
it's cool, you can probably
induce slip without the aid of a little water, but it
doesn't hurt to
try. As an interesting side note I did decide to do a burnout in
the
water one day after having the car spin excessively off the line.
I'd been dumping the
clutch at 7k rpms and decided to dump it at 6k after a
burnout. The lights came down, I
dumped it, the tires did NOT spin,
and the clutch did NOT slip. I bogged my way to a
13.39 after being
surprised my car didn't explode :P
I'm actually wondering if you're
having some other issues with the car if it won't run
better than that,
even with lousy launches. I'm by far not a pro, but I was able to
turn
my 13.64 the first time I'd been to a track in ANY car. The worst I've
ever done
was a 14.07, this was with 88k miles on the plugs and wires which
caused stumbling at
times, only a filter for mods, and missing third
gear.
I'd suggest getting a boost gauge to see if you're making proper
boost, replacing the
plugs and wires, especially if it stumbles, and checking
hoses under the hood for breaks
or leaks.
Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar
Gabriel
Estrada wrote:
> Got a question about track times. The 3000 GT
is not my daily driver,
> normally my wife drives it so I am not the best
manual transmission driver
> in the world. With that tid-bit out of
the way, what types of track times
> can i expect to run in the 1/4 mile
on a stock VR-4? I took it to our local
> track and my times were
horable. Granted it was hot, my Typhoon was running
> mid 13's in 98
degree weather. I did 3 runs in the VR-4
> first
run 16.587 @ 87 mph
> second run 15.785 @ 93
mph
> Third run 15.012 @ 96 mph
> What is the best way
to launch at the track? I was dumping the clutch at
> 3500 rpm and
it was very slow out of the hole. What am I doing wrong?
> Thanks in
advance
> Gabe Estrada
> 94 Pearl Yellow 3000 GT VR-4
> 92
Black GMC Typhoon
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 20:55:42 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: [stealth] Weapon-R Deal! (fwd)
I have the Weapon-R and if I could
do it again I'd get the tried and true K&N. I can't
complain about
my timeslips, but I doubt I can thank my filter for that. I can
however
curse the fact that it took some heavy filing to get the adapter to
fit the MAS. The
selling point for me was the open front that's exactly
4". You could run a 4" hose to
the front of the filter and maybe work
up some sort of ram air but this would take much
more room than we have under
the hood. My Weapon-R is 4-5" from inner fender, hardly
the room needed
for a 4", 90 degree, mandrel bent hose. I say get the cheaper,
tried
and true K&N with the 1,000,000 mile warranty.
Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar
Dennis
G. Bretton wrote:
> This came from Amir. I posted it here, as it
might be of use.
> The Weapon-R is yet another foam
filter.
>
> Though, I have to admit, this one is probably better
looking than most. :)
>
> Regards,
>
Dennis
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date:
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 10:46:07 -0500
> From: Amir Shaikh <shakham@cig.mot.com>
> Reply-To:
stealth@dragnet.com
> To: stealth@dragnet.com
> Subject:
[stealth] Weapon-R Deal!
>
> Hello all,
>
> Weapon-R
filter (your choice of colours) for $85 at Buschur Racing
> (www.buschurracing.com).
>
>
I called to pick up a K&N Aircharger. They were on severe back
order
> with K&N so they negotiated a deal with Weapon-R to offer it
at the same
> price. Normally they sell it at $125.
>
>
I don't get anything for this endorsement, just thought I'd let you guys
>
know about it. I ordered mine but haven't gotten it yet.
>
>
later,
> Amir
>
> --
> [ You are subscribed to the stealth@dragnet.com e-mail list. If
you wish
> to unsubscribe, send a NEW message to 'stealth-request@dragnet.com'
with
> a SUBJECT of "REMOVE". If you need help with getting the
digest version,
> setting flags, or other commands, instead use a subject
of "HELP".]
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Jul 1999 21:21:53 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS Carbon Clutch update
Supra Members and 3000GT list
members:
Rob still has not been in touch with me with my slipping
Turbo Carbon
Clutch. Almost 3 weeks now!
The supra digest is having
nothing but slipping problems with their carbon
clutch setup!!
Another
mention of an MR2 Carbon clutch slipping also.
I have had problems with 4 RPS
clutches I have installed on Mitsubishi
products, and can produce a list of
people who have had bad luck with RPS
Turbo Clutch.
On behalf of Rob,
he has been prompt at taking care of the supra owners
clutches, and has (in
the past) been prompt at taking care of my problem. I
have found him to
be a very knowledgeable person with tuning and building
cars. My
problem is only with the clutch.
With two installs @ 8 hours per install
I don't have time to deal with a
faulty product. (on my car alone) With
out some warranty labor compensation
I will not ever recommend the RPS clutch
to anyone. Including my
customers...
Out of respect to Rob Smith
I have also sent a copy to him.
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Jul 1999 22:58:14 -0400
From: Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject: Team3S:
starting problems
I posted this message a few times on 3si.org and have
received little
conversation, and even smaller ideas about what is wrong..
perhaps here
will help.
*Breath* (long winded)
I have a '93 RT
TT and one day I went out to start the car (after sitting
all night in the
garage) when the car was cool and it wouldn't start. It
would finally start,
run for a short period of time and then shut off. I
could be driving down the
street making boost, or just sitting there didn't
matter. There was no
hesitation, no signs, no anything .. just shut off.
Here's the
kicker, once the car warms up it runs strong, doesn't shut off
or anything.
If I take the car when it is acting this way out of the garage
and let it sit
in the sun all day, I can start it at the end of the day and
run it with no
problems. So somehow I think this has to be related to heat
(don't know how
though). If it doesn't get below 75 degrees here at night I
don't ever have
any problems with the car starting or running (starting
problems = will turn
over but not fire, not even try to fire).
Mods = K&N FIPK,
Extreme XBC (15psi), ATR Downpipe, Test pipe, custom 3"
catback, gutted
precats, autometer boost guage, nr overlays, (fuel mods on
the way)
Any help would be appreciated.
Mark
'93 RT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 00:22:07 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mods for a NT.. possible and theoretical
Hey guys... figured I'd
venture and make my 6th post to the list in as
many months... but here's the
situation..
My friend has just discovered the
wonderful world of superchargers
and turbochargers for his 3.8L SN95
Mustang... either of which will put
his power well above mine... and I ain't
happy with that... let alone
the fact that he's doing a complete suspension
overhaul... now.. knowing
the psychology behind why _most_ guys get sports
cars, I'd guess you
guys know what I'm getting at.
230
or so horse power is nice and all, and FWD makes for one killer
handler
(which I've personally proven against many Trans Ams, Mustang
Cobras, and
Chevy Vettes), but everything needs improvement. The
following are my current
plans for my car:
Engine:
(1) Stainless steel pipe from the air filter
to the throttle body which
will then most likely be wrapped in a thermal
wrap
(2) Larger bore throttle body.
(3) Custom exhaust
(4) Magnecore
8.5mmwires (with some other ignition goodies) w/ a
complete tune-up and
fuel injector cleaning
Suspension, etc:
(1) Eibach Springs
(2) GAB
Super HP springs all aroudn
(3) 17" rims w/ 245 or larger (anyone know what's
the largest I can run
before running into problems)
Now, after all
that, I'm hoping to hit a peak of 240-250hp and hold
around .95 lateral G's
(assuming the mags are right and I can hold
.89G's stock)..... but that's
still nothing off the line with FWD.
So the question is, what is it going
to take to step over that thin line
between accessory and excessive? I can
tolerate a 50hp shot of NOS, but
it's not my first choice... and how
difficult would it be to get a
turbocharger (using the VR-4 stock stuff)?
*maybe* even a supercharger
fitted?
Mainly, I'm looking at my options,
but I don't know how many I have or
where to begin. I'm all for suggestions
on what to do and definitely
what _not_ to do. All ideas welcome.
-
--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 01:55:03 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods for a NT.. possible and theoretical
- -----Original
Message-----From: J. Stephen Gula <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
-
--------snip-------
|following are my current plans for my
car:
|Engine:
|(1) Stainless steel pipe from the air filter to the
throttle body which
|will then most likely be wrapped in a thermal
wrap
|(2) Larger bore throttle body.
|(3) Custom exhaust
|(4) Magnecore
8.5mmwires (with some other ignition goodies) w/ a
|complete tune-up
and fuel injector cleaning
Hey, Steve,
Great minds think
alike... I've been considering the 'smooth stainless'
intake and
throttle body mods for my NT as well. But just as a reminder,
make sure
that a custom exhaust maintains the back pressure needed to keep
the low
end-- if you have an exhaust system with less restriction (very
desirable for
the turbos), you gain a bit at the top, but you'll be slower
off the
line. And it seems to be arguable, but the stock wires with NGKs
seem
to be a better choice for all the S/3ks than any Magnecore or 'hot
tip'
ignition goodies.
|Suspension, etc:
|(1) Eibach
Springs
|(2) GAB Super HP springs all around
|(3) 17" rims w/ 245 or
larger (anyone know what's the largest I can run
|before running into
problems)
Here I think I disagree a bit... I like the Eibachs
(they're on my wish
list too), but that's a slight suspension mod that
doesn't scare me. I LIKE
the way my Stealth handles right now, and I'm
hesitant to start messing with
it too much (with super springs and huge tires
and all). I'm kind of at the
limit for my car, having gone from 15"
(stock) to 16" R/T wheels with 9"+
wide performance tires (Nitto Extreme
225/55R16 V-rated), -1 degree camber
adjust, and rad tire pressures of
43F/37R. It keeps the superior handling
dynamic designed into the car,
but makes it just a bit tighter. A similar
upgrade for you would be
from NT stock 16" to 17" and as wide as 255. (OEM
for the turbos is
245/45R17, but you could go as wide as 255 and still fit
on the 8.5" wide
[turbo] stock 17" wheels. You'd need 9" wide wheels
for
275s).
|Now, after all that, I'm hoping to hit a peak of 240-250hp
and hold
|around .95 lateral G's (assuming the mags are right and I can
hold
|.89G's stock)..... but that's still nothing off the line with
FWD.
I don't know if you'll get .95, but you can get close by going
with -3
degrees and about a 1 degree toe-in when you compete. A good
performance
guy can set you up when the time comes...
|So the question
is, what is it going to take to step over that thin line
|between accessory
and excessive? I can tolerate a 50hp shot of NOS, but
|it's not my first
choice... and how difficult would it be to get a
|turbocharger (using the
VR-4 stock stuff)? *maybe* even a supercharger
|fitted?
240-250 HP
should be no problem with what you suggest..., and add another 10
HP +/- with
an electric supercharger. Roger thinks a 75 HP shot of NOS
wouldn't be
too stressful on the car; I'm sure a 50 HP shot will be less
so... A
real supercharger would be tough and big $$$ to set up a belt to
drive it;
and even if you moved the battery to the trunk, there still might
not be
enough room. But don't even THINK about adding turbos--
the
oft-repeated consensus from all the top mods guys is that trading in the
NT
for a turbo makes much more sense, since it would be cheaper and run
better.
Remember, that even a 250 HP S/3k NT will be competitive with a
TT because
of the several hundred pounds lighter weight. Get to 250HP
and lay in a NOS
kit, and you're ready to eat
beasts!
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 07:05 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Need TEC turbos phone #
These numbers are a few years old,
but here's what I have. (800)950-8872, or
(916)873-3488, or
(303)271-3997.
Jeff.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 08:21:08 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine and Transaxle oil change
All,
The study is one man's
opinion, but that opinion is based on some pretty
hard facts that he gathered
in doing the study. The one thing Fram (and
many others) doesn't have that is
a must in my book is the anti drain
back check
valve.
Regards,
Lynn
Jim Berry wrote:
>
>
========================================================================
>
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
>
> the site shown above tests oil filters and he didn't have anything good
to say about Fram.
> Keep in mind when reading that this is one mans
opinion.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 07:08:36 -0600
From: Tom Wilson <kb7get@cyberhighway.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Oil filters that are mounted
vertically on the bottom of the engine do not
have the anti drain back valve.
Ones that are mounted horizontally or on the
top of the engine have the
valve. We have filters at work (Napa) that are
basicly identical except for
the valve. Just depends on how it mounts on
your car if it needs one or
not...
At 08:21 AM 7/9/99 -0400, William Lynn Larsen
wrote:
>All,
>
>The study is one man's opinion, but that
opinion is based on some pretty
>hard facts that he gathered in doing the
study. The one thing Fram (and
>many others) doesn't have that is a must
in my book is the anti drain
>back check
valve.
>
>Regards,
>Lynn
>
>Jim Berry
wrote:
>>
>>
========================================================================
>>
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
>>
>> the site shown above tests oil filters and he didn't have anything
good
to say about Fram.
>> Keep in mind when reading that this is
one mans opinion.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
kb7get@cyberhighway.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 07:55:29 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods for a NT.. possible and
theoretical
Stephen...
Bob's advice is good. I hate to tell this
story, but last summer my VR4 was
"almost" beat by Rich LeRoy's NT (he had
his seats pulled, trunk empty, but
no radical mods). My boost controller
wasn't programmed and my plug gap was
off, but I'll be damned if he didn't
darn near catch me. He certainly
would've pulled ahead of me if he had
nitrous.
If I was in your situation, I'd do one of two things...add
nitrous or buy a
TT. The biggest problem with nitrous is that you'll need to
get REALLY good
at the launches, or add a rpm metering device. NT tend to be
at a
disadvantage due to wheelspin (Rich's next plan is to get slicks for
the
front).
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday,
July 09, 1999 1:55 AM
To: J. Stephen Gula; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mods for a NT.. possible and theoretical
<snip>
Remember, that
even a 250 HP S/3k NT will be competitive with a TT because
of the several
hundred pounds lighter weight. Get to 250HP and lay in a NOS
kit, and
you're ready to eat beasts!
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 08:55:36 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: starting problems
It seems to me that you have a hairline crack
at the ECU printed circuit
board.
it is a simple and cheap (free) fix
if you can handle the solder iron.
it may help checking under a lighted
scope magnifier
good luck
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 09:38:52 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
> Oil filters that are
mounted vertically on the bottom of the engine do not
> have the anti
drain back valve. Ones that are mounted horizontally or on the
> top of
the engine have the valve. We have filters at work (Napa) that are
>
basicly identical except for the valve. Just depends on how it mounts on
>
your car if it needs one or not...
I would still rather have the anti
drain back valve even if my filter hangs
upside down. I wouldn't want
any dirty oil siphoned back into the engine after
I turn it off and the oil
migrates back to the oil pan, although I don't know if
this is even
possible. I'll continue to pay for the valve -- my last purchase
of OEM
filters were $4.50 each in quantities of 6 from Norco Mitsu.
- --
Hang up and drive!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 13:49:54 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Synthetic Oil --> Dinosaur Oil, GM EOS
Quick question:
Any cautions or warnings about switching from Syn to Dino?
I was thinking
of using dino oil in my next oil change to see if that
reduces the lifter
tick. I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic for my last 5
oil changes, and
my dealer says that synthetic can actually make the ticking
louder.
Curious if there's any truth to that, but want to make sure there's
nothing
bad for the engine about switching back to dino oil for an oil
change or two
to see how it affects the ticking.
BTW, GM EOS (Engine Oil
Supplement) reduces (and 99% of the time
eliminates) my ticking
noise. I just hear the fuel injectors now.
Apparently Mitsu actually
recommends this product, even though the GM
warning label specifically says
it's not supposed to be added to crankcase
oil:) I am, however
concerned about the long-term effects on the engine.
Anyone know?
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 56k mi
-
------
----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life
here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for
this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here
one will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone
without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality
here and now."
--T. S. Eliot
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Jul 1999 17:55:07 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mods for a NT.. possible and theoretical
Is there somebody that can
fabricate the custom intake from stainless
steel? If so, I have an idea that
will get a ram-air system going. I was
thinking, if the pipe can incorporate
the MAS and extend down and into
the space where the TT's have
intercoolers...What about a 90 degree
bend, and an HKS super mega flow filter
placed so that teh air is rammed
into it. It would get a slight ram effect,
and the air would be cooler
coming from outside the engine bay. Anybody know
where there is a
fabricator that could do this type of work?
Thanks.
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Jul 1999 17:03:49 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Synthetic Oil --> Dinosaur Oil, GM EOS
just replace the
lifters. they are only $10 at pepboys
otherwise try Mobil1 5W50, it is
higher viscosity but that should be better
at warm weather and if your engine
is not brand new.
I would not be comfortable with
additives.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #227
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