--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #225
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Wednesday, July 7 1999 Volume 01
: Number
225
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:14:38 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Magnacore Plug Wires
> Topofwrld1@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> stock Ignition Wire on 92 R/T NA went out 54,000 miles
> > again
at 89,000 miles; seems unacceptable.
> > dealer wants $133. Can I
expect better
> > durability/no radio interference from Magnacore or
just improved
> > performance/cosmetics?
> > Dennis
92 R/T low rpm miss under load.
>
> I think your dealer is
pumping you for money.
> The heat load placed on your engine WITHOUT
turbos is less than the turbo
> cars, yet the turbo cars' wires don't fail
like that!
> I use, and probably will FOREVER use, the STOCK wires which
have never
> given me any problem. I did replace them once at around
40,000 miles
> because
> I was in there anyway and seemed like a
maintenance item to do...but there
> was
> no effect. They
tested fine, just a little more resistance than the new
> ones.
> I
wonder why your car REALLY is having a problem...
>
> Some have
complained Magnecores sometimes pop off the coils (stockers
> never
do).
> I have seen an article in Circle Track Mag about wires and whether
high,
> low, or NO
> resistance makes any hp--the final result was
that it did not matter what
> the resistance
>
> of the wire
is. This was on a dyno with many brands (kept anonymous to
> protect
the
> innocent and so as to maintain the purity of the idea behind
the
> article)...the only one
>
> that LOST hp was Nology
wires! Article didn't name them, but noted they
> were the
>
only wires requiring a special plug and to ground the outside of the
wire,
> so their ID
> could be sleuthed out of the article.
I'm not saying Magnecores are bad,
> they seem
> popular and are
likely great wires; but as to better than stock...? I am
>
unconvinced...
>
> Another good tech question!
> Jack
Tertadian
>
You know guys, I had this same problem after replacing my
wires with
Magnecors. I talked to Frank at AA and he told me to roll
the coil side
boot up a bit to keep them from popping off. I did that,
and the missing
got much better, but I still get it every once in a
while. I think a little
later this year when I have more time I'm going
to try a new set of factory
wires and see if that clears it up for
good. I think Jack is right though,
especially for the price of the
Magencor wires, stock wires are probably the
best bet.
-John
Basol
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:51:56 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case recall?
I had assumed that the NHTSA had forced
Mitsu/Chryco to issue a recall on
ALL the AWD Transfer cases. This included
some minivans, montero's, 3/S
cars,
and for SURE the T/E/L/Gvr4's. This
recall was started by our group (club
dsm) after the deaths/injuries of some
members.
I remember seeing that within a few months of our recall, the
3/S cars were
recalled as well... It's a safety defect, and minor mods should
still make
it apply (in theory, any amount of modifications will not make the
vehical
ineligable for the recall since it's a safety thing)
Good
luck!
(Try 1888TALLMITS for good parts prices if replacement by you is
your only
option. Ask for Sean, Jeremy, or Marcus, tell them you are a 3/S
member.)
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:19:54 -0600
From: "Michael O'Krancy" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
This message is in MIME format. Since
your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message
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Boys,
I had my 91 TT stolen about 3 months
ago. The police recovered it a week
after it was stolen. The
thieves had basically taken it for a joy ride and
dumped it. Anyway the
clutch was burnt right out and other than a scratch
on the door it was
fine. Three weeks later I finally got it out of the
dealership running
better than ever. I had them install Magnecores and NGK
plugs
while they did the clutch. So I picked it up and took it on a 800
km
road trip the next day. That day, my tranny blew up. Insurance is
covering
the cost of a new one of course but that is not my main concern any
longer.
This all happened at the beginning of May and it's been sitting at
the
dealership in this other city waiting for a transmission for two over
two
months now. I am finding Chryslers' lack of ability to locate
a
transmission and back order stories quite tiresome. What I'd like to
ask
all of you is if you know of a US dealer that I could get a tranny from
in
couple of days to a week. I was also thinking that the difficulty
here may
be that the 91 5spd. is not as common as the current 6 spd.
Would the 6
spd. fit in a 91 TT? Are these transmissions easier to come
by? Any help
or suggestions on this matter would be greatly
appreciated. The summer is
passing by and I really wouldn't mind
driving my car. Also worth noting
(for shipping reasons) is that
I live in Calgary, Alberta, Canada.
Thanks
mike
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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:18:02 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
According to my investigation, rear end
ratios are different between the 5sp
and 6 sp.
I know the transfer
case ratios are also different .
it is my understanding that 5sp /
6sp transaxles and transfer cases cannot
be mixed and matched.
I know
prop shafts are not identical.
all of the above makes a 6sp swap
unfeasible.
any comments or experience?
PS: chrysler attempts to
use rebuild transaxles when they can. I suggest you
check both
ways.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 16:55:15 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Elkhart Lake this weekend
I'm going to the Trans-Am/CART races at
Road America in Elkhart Lake, WI,
this weekend.
We'll be leaving Thursday
night.
If any Stealth/3000GT folks are planning to be there, I'd like to
meet up
with you. We can swap lies over a brat and a beer (best racetrack
food in
the world!).
If you don't link up with me via e-mail ahead of
time, look for a black 94
vr4 with big white brake scoops parked near the
press building (across the
track from the pits, at the start/finish line),
and leave a note. I'll find
you.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 18:30:36 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: ECS
question.
If I remember correctly, a while back somebody posted that
depending
upon the sequence of the "tour/sport" flashes, you can determine
which
strut is bad, or needs checking. Mine is flashing
"tour..tour..sport".
Can anybody help me so I can pinpoint the problem, as I
believe it is
only a loose wire.
Thanks,
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 17:25:30 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
6 speed: 3.307 gear
ratio
5 speed: 3.553 gear ratio
6 speed propeller shaft
(front portion) is about 1" shorter than 5 speed..
Cost at a driveshaft shop
to shorten ~50-100.00.
Shifter cables are different. 5 speed cables
will work, but do not feel
great.
If you have to replace the 5/6 speed
and are planning to drive the cars
hard, 6 speed transfer cases have a cast
iron snout, where all the 5 speed
ones are aluminum.
Over all the 6
speed is much stronger. Final ratio is only 7.5% difference
at the rear
wheels for the gear ratio. This could be made up with a
slightly
different size tire on the rear/front.
I'm not sure how much this would
affect handling...
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Murat Okcuoglu
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 1999 4:18 PM
To:
Michael O'Krancy; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
According to my investigation, rear
end ratios are different between the 5sp
and 6 sp.
I know the transfer
case ratios are also different .
it is my understanding that 5sp /
6sp transaxles and transfer cases cannot
be mixed and matched.
I know
prop shafts are not identical.
all of the above makes a 6sp swap
unfeasible.
any comments or experience?
PS: chrysler attempts to
use rebuild transaxles when they can. I suggest you
check both
ways.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 18:33:08 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 94 black headlights for sale
If anyone is looking for some, I
have a pair which is in very good
condition. I am taking
offers.
Thanks
Joshua
Joshua@princelaw.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jul 1999 05:41:46 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
The CASE itself is iron/stronger on the 6
speeds, it has an
aluminum (like 5 speeds) case extension/"snout" that leads
to the
driveshaft.
Jack T.
Brad Bedell wrote:
> If you
have to replace the 5/6 speed and plan drive
> hard, 6 speed transfer case
has cast iron snout; all the 5 speed
> ones are aluminum.
> Over all
the 6 speed is much stronger.
The torque rating for the trans are almost
exactly the same -- JT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 16:37:42 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
if you drive the car with different
front /rear ratios, you will destroy the
center differential viscous
coupling. 7.5% is about 200rpm at freewway
speeds, way way over the treshold
of the coupling.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 17:50:19 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: Custom IHI
turbos for sale
Well all I'm getting rid of the ihi turbos to go bigger
and badder for my
new setup. These will be available off the car on July
19th. The turbos are
td04 with ihi compressors. The turbos have about 5,000
miles no oil no
nothing just barely broken in on my books. The car has always
had Mobil
synthetic in it. Now these are in between turbos of the 13g and the
15g.
They have a spool up of about 3800 rpm and my car did a best of 12.76
1/4 up
here at 6800ft at bandimere's (could of been better with a not so
rich
situation plus better driver too :)!). They produce about 15.5 psi at
the
upper rpms (6,000 rpm) and max at 1.3 bar. TEC built the turbos and they
are
made after the Infamous Hennesse cars that were produced. I'm asking
$1000
for the pair but will consider serious offers.
92 3000 GTO
MMC
500 H.P. of broken fun again :(
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303)
689-4733
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 20:55:32 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Alignment Shops
When looking for an alignment in a new city, I look for a
business that
bills it self as a "Frame and Axle" shop. It should have been
in
business for a long while AND have up to date equipment. Without
the
reference of somebody who really should know and that you can
trust,
IMHO, this is as good a way to pick a shop as I can think
of.
My $0.02,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 20:20:30 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 6 speed stuff: Team3S Digest V1 #224
Yes I agree with 7.5% being
a problem..However, check the differences in
overall tire height from brand
to brand. You will find at least a 5%
difference in circumference due
to height from the "same size tire".
As for torque ratings of the 5/6
speed transmissions being the same, I agree
also, however the lower internal
gearing, along with the cast iron transfer
case makes an "Overall" stronger
setup.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: Murat Okcuoglu
[mailto:murat@ashacorp.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, July 06, 1999 6:38 PM
To: Brad Bedell; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #224
if you drive the car with different
front /rear ratios, you will destroy the
center differential viscous
coupling. 7.5% is about 200rpm at freewway
speeds, way way over the treshold
of the coupling.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 18:38:39 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1-2-thud
The clutch pedal is adjusted about as high as it
goes. There's plenty of
distance to the floor after it disengages
(about 1/3 to 1/2 way down), so
I'm sure its fully disengaged when the pedal
is all the way to the
floor. One nagging concern I have is
whether or not I remembered to
grease the transmission input shaft splines
and the clutch disc hub splines
prior to reassembly. I may have skipped
that step, although I remember
others on the list saying that this was really
only necessary for ease of
reassembly. I did grease everything else
(like fork contact points).
Hopefully this doesn't affect clutch
disengagement in any way.
God, I'd hate to have to tear the whole thing apart
again because of a
stupid screwup like that!
Dave
Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> This is the symptom you will get when the clutch is not fully
released when you
> have the clutch pedal on the floor. Try
adjusting the bolt that goes from the
> clutch pedal to the vacuum
assist. Loosen the jam nut and lengthen the bolt in
> 1/2 turn
increments (a little goes a long way) until the thud disappears.
The
> clutch should still grab and be fully engaged about half-way through
the clutch
> pedal travel.
>
> Good luck,
>
Ken
>
> David Margrave wrote:
> >
> > I'm getting
a thud noise from the rear end when shifting from 1st to 2nd
> >
sometimes, right as I shove it into 2nd but before letting the clutch
>
> out. It seems to occur only when I'm at relatively high (4000
plus)
> > RPMs in 1st prior to shifting. It does seem somewhat
better if I let
> > the RPMs drop down to the matched value prior to
shoving it into 2nd,
> > but still occurs sometimes even under this
case. The only things that
> > stop it completely seem to be
shifting from a lower RPM (i.e. < = 4000
> > in 1st prior to shift)
or double clutching before shoving it into 2nd.
> >
> > So I
suspect its at least partially synchro related, but in all honesty
> >
I have zero problems with gear grinding or not being able to shift.
I'm
> > running redline MTL in the trans, and redline 75w90 (or
whatever) in the
> > xfer and rear. I recently did a clutch
replacement and have adjusted
> > the pedal to spec.
>
>
> > I remember some talk on the list earlier about replacing some
type of
> > carrier bearings for the drive shaft (~$300) and failing
that, replacing
> > the whole drive shaft to cure thudding. There
was also talk of the
> > drive shaft actually slapping into rubber
bumper stops under the car. I
> > guess I could test this by
brushing some goo on the bumper stops,
> > driving, then seeing if any
of the goo wound up on the shaft.
> >
> > Dave
>
>
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
--
> Hang up and drive!
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General
Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 22:03:47 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: End
of the Tire Saga
Subtitle: Another Heaping of Praise on Firestone
SZ50
Hi all,
It's been about a week since I got my car back, newly
shod with 245/50ZR16
Firehawk SZ50's. Yahoo! I have to echo the
sentiments of a couple of you
who have gushed about them. I've tested
them on wet roads, dry roads, curvy
roads, straight roads, and I give 'em an
"A"! Road noise is better than
expected, and the "point-n-shoot"
performance of the steering is *so* much
better than it used to be.
They ain't cheap, but I don't regret a penny of
it!
Thanks for all the
information and suggestions you offered. I appreciate
the help.
Now I just gotta scrape up some cash to get fifth gear
working
again...
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES (107,000
miles, and the tranny is only my second bit of
"unscheduled
maintenance!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jul 1999 12:18:02 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Downpipe for OBDII cars...
I was going to buy Arty's ATR downpipe but I
just looked at my 96 and there's a boss on
the vertical part of the pipe that
goes to the rear precat for the extra 02 sensor for
the OBDII cars. Anyone
know of any aftermarket downpipes that come with that boss? If I
can't find
one I'll have to try those Casper Electronics O2 sensor simulators. I
could
gut the precats too with those installed....
Trevor
96 R/T
TT
91 R/T TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jul 1999 11:21:24 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Downpipe for OBDII cars...
Trevor;
Both ATR and Alamo
have different downpipe for 91-93 and 94-up to account
for the additional
sensor.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
I
was going to buy Arty's ATR downpipe but I just looked at my 96 and
there's a
boss on
the vertical part of the pipe that goes to the rear precat for the
extra 02
sensor for
the OBDII cars. Anyone know of any aftermarket
downpipes that come with that
boss? If I
can't find one I'll have to try
those Casper Electronics O2 sensor
simulators. I could
gut the precats too
with those installed....
Trevor
96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jul 1999 12:19:04 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tires and wheels
Hey gang:
Just spoke with the folks at
Tire Rack and ordered a set of Yokohama A032Rs
($163 each, plus tax and
shipping). Next will be a set of street wheels and
tires. I can
see the air in two of my street tires.
I spoke with their technical
wizard, John Rastetter, and he knows our cars
well. He warned me about
getting a cheapie wheel for open track racing,
because of the deep offset on
our wheels. So we decided to use my stock
chromies to mount up the Yokos, and
maybe I'll order a set of street wheels
and tires later.
Geez...
wheels suitable for racing are $450 or so. The chromies may be
heavy, but
they are very strong. And cheap.
He said I can run the Yokos on the
street, because they come with 6/32nds
of tread, and have a pattern suitable
for use in the rain. He says I can
expect 6-7,000 miles of street use plus
competition at autocrosses and open
track events.
Sounds like about a
season's worth of wear, which is what I wanted. I can
even drive on them to
events 300 miles away.
I can't wait for the next Corvette club autocross
-- last time, I got all
but one Vette. With these new sticky tires, that bad
ass 454 will be
history, dude.
John also confirmed what I've
said here before -- that the new BFG G-Force
race tires only come shaved,
with 3/32nds of tread.
BTW, he said an 18 in. wheel and tire is exactly
the same height -- 27.5
in. -- as a 17 in. I didn't know that. If
I can't find a cheap set of
stock 17 in. chromies, I may go to 18 inchers.
Anybody got a set of 1994 chromies (five spoke) for sale cheap? I'll
take
them even if the chrome is pitted or peeling.
If you have a
technical question about wheels and tires for our cars, I
suggest you give
John Rastetter a call at 800/981-3783 or check the site at
www.tirerack.com.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4/almost re-tired.
As in rubber, dude.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 07 Jul 1999 12:08:00 -0700
From: David Chen <Neubine@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Downpipe for OBDII cars...
I had the same problem with the
Bozz Speed exhaust that I put on my car. The Japanese
versions of our car
like the 1st gens only have one 02 sensor. I fixed the problem by going
down
to my local muffler shop and had them drill a extra hole and weld a fitting that
would
fit the extra 02 sensor. I had to pay cash though seeing as I have no
cats.... =) It only
caost me like $20.
David Chen
94 VR-4 "Banana
Rocket"
Neubine@ix.netcom.com
> I was
going to buy Arty's ATR downpipe but I just looked at my 96 and there's a boss
on
> the vertical part of the pipe that goes to the rear precat for the
extra 02 sensor for
> the OBDII cars. Anyone know of any aftermarket
downpipes that come with that boss? If I
> can't find one I'll have to try
those Casper Electronics O2 sensor simulators. I could
> gut the precats
too with those installed....
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT
> 91
R/T TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Jul 1999 21:19:46 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S:
TMO Datalogger / ECU programming
I got the TMO Datalogger this weekend
and finally installed it today. I
tried to install it on my old pen-notebook
with Win 3.11 but it was not
sucessful. Also the DOS version won't start and
failed with a nerror code. I
now borrowed a "normal" notebook with NT 4.0 and
was able to install it
successfully.
I connected the RS232 adapter to
the diagnose port and one line to a 12V
source. The software started
immediatly and after hitting "Connect" I was
asked for the port on the PC
(COM1 in my case) and the SW stated that the
Datalogger was found.
It
connected to the ECU of my 93'3000GT European Version without a problem
and
immediatly showed the sensor values. The information tab showed two
"unknown"
fields (engine and ECU) but I know what engine is installed in the
car :-)
Some sensor readings can be shown as % or real voltage (like the
TPS) while
the IDC is shown in ms. There are several tabs in a window that
show such
information online. The logging function consits of a graph window
that shows
the actual data online as a streaming line. It can be halted and
restarted at
will and records selected sensors or values an unlimited time
(I've not seen
any limitation) A summary of knock amount is shown too !
Also the the
display showed two error codes ! Air tremp and barometric
sensor.... of
course, because my WI installation is not done yet and the MAS
is still
unconnected ! All in all, it works as it is supposed to do on a DSM
car. Even
the four solenoids could be switched on/off and the
injectors
deactivated one by one.
IMHO, it is an absolute necessary
tool for tuning the car with all the
necessary information like knock,
timing, O2 sensors, IAT, etc. With this
I'm able to compare the different
programs I have for the G-Force ECU. As I
already found the locations of the
constants in the program I'm now able to
change them by myself and optimize
the timing and fuel map to the best
possible value. Even more I do have an
EPROM emulator that allows me to
simulate the program and change the params
"on the fly". I can't wait to
record the results of the knock readings with
and without WI ;-))
Stay tuned,
Roger
93'3000GT TT ... well
observed now 8-)
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #225
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