--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #224
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Tuesday, July 6
1999 Volume 01 : Number
224
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jul 1999 13:47:48 EDT
From: VVolverine@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
which one
ok there are a couple of stealths im trying to chose from help
me oput here.
the 1st is a 94 tt w/ 36k miles red for 14,300. the 2nd is a
94 tt with alarm
15k miles black for19,500. and the 3rd is a 91 red tt with
55k miles on it
for 12,500. which one should i look into
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jul 1999 11:30:04 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
relay question
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Anyone know much about relays? Attached is a bitmap with the
schematic
imprinted on the relay, but I don't know what each leg is. My
guess would
be the following:
85 = signal +
86 = signal -
87 =
full power +
30 = full power -
If the bitmap didn't come through,
here's my ASCII attempt
85 87
87
__|__ |__|
|\
|_____\
| \ |______\
|__\|
\
| |
86 30
Anyone know for sure?
Ryan
Peterson
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For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jul 1999 12:07:55 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
relay question
> Anyone know much about relays? Attached is a
bitmap with the schematic
> imprinted on the relay, but I don't know what
each leg is. My guess would
> be the
following:
=========================================================
It
would appear that 85 and 86 are the coil [ activates the relay ], and should
have
a moderate amount of resistance between the pins. 87 has two contacts
and acts
as the wiper or movable part of the relay. Pin 30 is the other
contact and is normally
open. If measured with a meter or test light it would
show an open circuit.
With no power to the coil, 85 and 86, the circuit
between 87 and 30 is open. When
you apply power to the coil then 87 and 30
are connected together.
Jim Berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jul 1999 14:53:02 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
I just wanted to post that Rob Smith of
RPS has not replied to my request to
settle my problem. Seems he is ignoring
the situation.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Michael Reiss
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 12:09 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
I just received my Carbon Clutch from the
GP and threads like
this are making me second guess installing it.
Overall
the design looks ok but I was surprised how thin the pucks are. I
was
more concerned about longevity rather than slippage...but now that seems
to
be an issue too.
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>To:
"Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
>Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:23:27
-0500
>
>My carbon clutch is slipping. After 1500 miles of
break in on the engine,
>I
>decided it was time to beat on the car a
little.
>
>The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the
throttle.
>Needless to say I am very disappointed. The stock clutch
held more power.
>I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock
clutch.
>
>
>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right
with the clutches...This is
>my
>second RPS and they still can't get
it right. I hope everyone who purchased
>theirs on the group purchase will
have better luck than I have.
>
>Brad
>Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Jul 1999 14:00:54 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1-2-thud
I'm getting a thud noise from the rear end when shifting
from 1st to 2nd
sometimes, right as I shove it into 2nd but before letting
the clutch
out. It seems to occur only when I'm at relatively high
(4000 plus)
RPMs in 1st prior to shifting. It does seem somewhat better
if I let
the RPMs drop down to the matched value prior to shoving it into
2nd,
but still occurs sometimes even under this case. The only things
that
stop it completely seem to be shifting from a lower RPM (i.e. < =
4000
in 1st prior to shift) or double clutching before shoving it into
2nd.
So I suspect its at least partially synchro related, but in all
honesty
I have zero problems with gear grinding or not being able to
shift. I'm
running redline MTL in the trans, and redline 75w90 (or
whatever) in the
xfer and rear. I recently did a clutch replacement and
have adjusted
the pedal to spec.
I remember some talk on the list
earlier about replacing some type of
carrier bearings for the drive shaft
(~$300) and failing that, replacing
the whole drive shaft to cure
thudding. There was also talk of the
drive shaft actually slapping into
rubber bumper stops under the car. I
guess I could test this by
brushing some goo on the bumper stops,
driving, then seeing if any of the goo
wound up on the shaft.
Dave
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Jul 1999 19:49:22 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: ATR Downpipe 4
sale
I'm selling my almost new ATR Stainless Steel 3" Downpipe. Will
probably also
sell the Borlas as well. Interested, Please Email direct. I'm
in the New York
City area.
Arty 91 VR-4
PS All this exhaust stuff is
perfect, I just need two 4" pipes on the new
setup.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 09:18:26 z (EDT)
From: millebi@kw.igs.net
Subject: Team3S:
Transfer case price... need a new one
Hi everyone,
I need to buy a
new transfer case since mine blew on Sunday night (Oil
everywhere and a
piece of case missing). Does anyone know what a reasonable
price for a 1991
Stealth TT transfer case? My dealer has given me a price of
$2195.00 +3.8
hours = $2480.00 (CDN) ==> (USD) $1463.00 = $1653.33.
Are these prices
within a "good" price? From what I remember from previous
posts it seems
quite good.
Please reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com" if
possible.
Thanks a bunch,
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 09:43:52 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer case price... need a new one
I'm not sure about the
Canadian market, but the US has a recall on the 91
3000GT transfer
case.
You might look into that aspect.
The price of 1463. Seems
high, by about 600.00. As I understand there are
several
retailers dealing specifically with transmissions and transfer
cases. I
don't' have any of the phone numbers though.
Brad
Check out my
home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of
millebi@kw.igs.net
Sent: Tuesday, July
06, 1999 4:18 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc:
Bill_Miller@manulife.com
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer case price... need a new one
Hi everyone,
I need
to buy a new transfer case since mine blew on Sunday night (Oil
everywhere
and a piece of case missing). Does anyone know what a reasonable
price for a
1991 Stealth TT transfer case? My dealer has given me a price of
$2195.00
+3.8 hours = $2480.00 (CDN) ==> (USD) $1463.00 = $1653.33.
Are these
prices within a "good" price? From what I remember from previous
posts it
seems quite good.
Please reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com" if
possible.
Thanks a bunch,
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 12:38:22 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Midwest Gathering !!!!!!!
Hi all,
I've been kind of out of the
loop lately; I'm not up to date with our
mailing lists/emails. What's
the status and update on the Midwest Gathering
in Cleveland, OHIO on July
23-25 and Cedar Point? I cannot access the
Midwest gathering window on
Dave Black's website. What hotel? Plans?
Events? Convoy?
etc. I figure I better register soon! I'm still working on
a
head count on those friends who will be joining me for our MIDWEST
GATHERING!!!!!
As I mentioned before, I was trying to get all my Supra
Twin Turbo
(along with an Acura NSX and other modified cars) friends to join
us but
unfortunately they all have a Gathering of their own in St. Louis,
Missouri
on the SAME weekend - and they are all trying to persuade me to
join them!
NOT!!! I plan on being at our MIDWEST
GATHERING!!!!!! This will be the
first 3Si gathering that I will
attend so I am looking forward to meeting you
all who are attending (it will
be great to place the faces with
ahhhhhhh......the email addresses on these
lists!) hehehehhehehhe.....lol.
Keep me
posted!
Thanks!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B
boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI
motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, Magnecore 8.5mm wires & new NGK
spark
plugs gapped at .032, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon fiber pads,
Nitto
Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm
offset)
racing wheels & Eibach Pro-Kit Springs (not installed
yet)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 23:52:26 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources
TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS /
REBUILD SOURCE
Summary:
1) Try Tallahassee Mitsu
1888-825-5648, say you are on 3S Internet list for
like 25% discount and free
ship for over $50
2) Rockland Mitsu 1914-353-2100 Say
internet/3SI member "Terry"
3) Norco
Mitsu 1888-689-1788
" "
"
"Bill"
4) Lou Fusz Mitsu
1800-528-2525 "
"
"
"Greg or Marty"
5) Norman Mitsu
1800-800-0853 "
"
" 25% off, free ship over $400
6) MAG
auto
1800-229-1001 I think these are used
only?
7) Kormex Trans Parts 1800-429-5464 "Frank Martin"
Has aftermarket
hardened output shafts for trans and other parts, do
rebuilds.
8) East Street Auto 1901-774-5374 "Jim" I
think they have ?stock output
shafts for $400, not sure here
9)
Southern Gear 1770-435-1461 Trans Rebuilders
in Georgia, USA;
have done many of them, would be between them and Kormex if
I had to
have rebuild based on info I have NOW.
10) Max Mayants at
"GTR Motorsports" email NYMaxxNY@aol.com,
gets new transaxle
bearing kits, output shaft for $430; was planning to
recoat the old/used
synchro ring with new brass (not a bad idea) though
not the only part that
wears (the gear face teeth and blocker rings also have
teeth that wear, but
if can make new brasscoated rings that is one more part
being made!) I
don't have phone #, if you get it write back; he said back in
May 99 he
was opening up large shop for cars like ours.
When you find cheapest,
PLEASE write back (could use REPLY to this so all
numbers reprinted but let
us know cheapest so all info is in one message, or if
any have gone out of
service...I try to keep abreast of the latest/cheapest this
way), and will
try to send message like this occasionally for latest
summary
etc.
Jack Tertadian
millebi@kw.igs.net wrote:
> I
need new transfer case; mine blew; oil
> everywhere, piece of case
missing. What is reasonable
> price for 1991 Stealth TT transfer
case? Dealer price
> $2195.00 +3.8 hours = (USD) $1463.00 =
$1653.33.
> reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com"
>
Bill 91 TT "Old Red"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 10:01:49 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: relay question
when you apply 12V accorss 85 & 86, the relay
will be activated. polarity is
not important.
30 is usually power
(12V) from battery or ignition, with a full gauge wire.
make sure you have a
fuse somewhere on the line.
87 is the output. it is energized when the
relay is activated. you just have
2 for convenience.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 10:13:40 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer case price... need a new one
This has got to be easy
to replace yourself. Otherwise a local mechanic should
be able to do in
in a couple of hours or so. Check the included post for prices
on
rebuilt units.
Good luck,
Ken
+++++ INCLUDE
+++++
Aloha,
I couldn't resist saying that after spending the last 10
days on Kauai's
south shore at Poipu Kai.
Anyway I just called MD
Auto, 619-390-0450, in San Diego to follow up
with recent Getrag questions
floating around. I spoke with Mike for at
least 20 minutes and he is
very friendly and helpful. MD Auto as you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag
transmissions and transfer cases and also
sells some parts.
5 or 6
spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case
$2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny
$2295
rebuilt transfer
case
$850
(refundable) core charge
$500
Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage
warranty.
Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are
replaced. Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in
Europe. He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you
that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink). He uses
them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source
will stop providing him
access. New bearings, shaft, transfer unit
spool, and seals are used,
see below.
There is no problem
swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.
Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape
than the small shafts. He said this is because
the small shaft's 18
splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines
wear more. ???
His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.
Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core. He doesn't
rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.
Now he
also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than
OEM $225
Shafts, OEM
quality
$695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality $695 (double
ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case
$175
He also sells used gears & housings.
I asked him
about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts. He
didn't sound
too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.
Mike is a Corvette
man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend
of his had Getrag problems. He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in
the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over
$7K.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
- --
Hang up and
drive!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 10:20:35 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1-2-thud
This is the symptom you will get when the clutch is
not fully released when you
have the clutch pedal on the floor. Try
adjusting the bolt that goes from the
clutch pedal to the vacuum
assist. Loosen the jam nut and lengthen the bolt in
1/2 turn increments
(a little goes a long way) until the thud disappears. The
clutch should
still grab and be fully engaged about half-way through the clutch
pedal
travel.
Good luck,
Ken
David Margrave wrote:
>
>
I'm getting a thud noise from the rear end when shifting from 1st to 2nd
>
sometimes, right as I shove it into 2nd but before letting the clutch
>
out. It seems to occur only when I'm at relatively high (4000
plus)
> RPMs in 1st prior to shifting. It does seem somewhat better
if I let
> the RPMs drop down to the matched value prior to shoving it
into 2nd,
> but still occurs sometimes even under this case. The
only things that
> stop it completely seem to be shifting from a lower RPM
(i.e. < = 4000
> in 1st prior to shift) or double clutching before
shoving it into 2nd.
>
> So I suspect its at least partially
synchro related, but in all honesty
> I have zero problems with gear
grinding or not being able to shift. I'm
> running redline MTL in
the trans, and redline 75w90 (or whatever) in the
> xfer and rear. I
recently did a clutch replacement and have adjusted
> the pedal to
spec.
>
> I remember some talk on the list earlier about replacing
some type of
> carrier bearings for the drive shaft (~$300) and failing
that, replacing
> the whole drive shaft to cure thudding. There was
also talk of the
> drive shaft actually slapping into rubber bumper stops
under the car. I
> guess I could test this by brushing some goo on
the bumper stops,
> driving, then seeing if any of the goo wound up on the
shaft.
>
> Dave
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Hang up and drive!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Jul 1999 10:26:20 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New 17" SZ50s on (was: Severe Handling problem)
"Dennis G.
Bretton" wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> If you
remember, I posted to this list not too long ago. I was
>
complaining about a severe handling problem with my SOHC Stealth (road
>
wander, excessive body roll, lack of crisp steering, etc.)
snip
> One
thing of import: I ahd an alignment done at NTB, and I noticed
that
> the caster is out of spec by 2 minutes on the left, and almost a
full 1
> degree on the right.
> My understanding is that the caster
cannot be adjusted on these cars,
> right?
The stock setup has
fixed caster. However someone mentioned that the Ground
Control camber
adjustment plates can also be used for adjusting caster. Check
them out
since they should be fairly inexpensive. Then find a GOOD
alignment
shop, call some local performance shops for
recommendations.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Hang up and
drive!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Jul 1999 14:45:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: GC plates, caster, and performance shops (was SZ50/handling ,
thread)...
> > One thing of import: I had an alignment done
at NTB, and I noticed
that
> > the caster is out of spec by 2
minutes on the left, and almost a full 1
> > degree on the
right.
>
> The stock setup has fixed caster. However someone
mentioned that the Ground
> Control camber adjustment plates can also be
used for adjusting caster. Check
> them out since they should be
fairly inexpensive. Then find a GOOD alignment
> shop, call some
local performance shops for recommendations.
Okay, thanks for the
tip.
Now it would seem that my orignal question has forked a bit.
However,
since this Ground Control thing has been a hot topic lately, let me
ask a
couple of questions:
Is there anyone out there who
has experience with the camber plates?
Can they adjust
caster? How difficult is the installation?
Does anyone
know a good alignment/suspension shop in New England?
Thank you for
all your help!
Regards,
"up to his neck"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #224
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