--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #222
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S
Digest Saturday, July 3
1999 Volume 01 : Number
222
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:37:13 EDT
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Road Course
Update - Watkins Glen
Another one of those long posts. Went to The Glen
for the second time on June
31st and July 1st. After the last event there
three weeks ago installed brake
ducting in an attempt to alleviate brake
fade. My current setup on my 1993
VR4 includes a Blitz boost controller set
to 1.05 bars, GAB shocks, GC
springs 650 front and 500 rears, GC camber
plates set at 3.2 degrees neg.
camber, K&N filter, gutted pre-cats,
"test" pipe in place of main cat, RP01
17x9 shod with 255/45/17 G-Force
rubber, tire pressures are 36 front and 33
rear (cold), brake cooling ducts
using two 2" hoses per side, two 2" hoses
running up into the K&N intake
area for some fresh air, full interior minus
spare/jack/rear deck/cd
changer, simpson 5 point harness's, big red
brembo/porsche front calipers
with pagid orange pads, KVR 94&up slotted front
rotors, HOT LAP timing
system, road race engineering rear tower brace. For
those of you who wish to
follow along with the track map, go to
http://www.silhouet.com/motorsport/tracks/watkins.html.
I once again went
with the trackmasters group which is VERY strict on
releasing people to open
track status. I have a fair amount of track time at
Pocono and Lime Rock
along with 2 days at Summit Point. Trackmasters stages
are, students with
instructors, then solo with student group, and finally
sign off into open
track status. Due to my limited time on the track I have
only achieved solo
status. The format this time was NO solo. In it's place
was an advanced
driving class with instructors designed to PUSH the students
to be more self
analytical. Topics included track out speeds at various
corners, consistency
throughout the track, and "offline" exercises. My
instructor was EXTREMELY
tough and expected nothing short of perfect. For
example, if I was off line
into a corner by 4" that was way too wide. Ok,
enough of the preamble, here's
a walk through of the course. Front straight
tops out 3rd gear at 120 into a
diving 90 degree right hander. HEAVY braking
zone. Full on the brakes just
short of wheel lock up. Track out point past
turn one still is going down
hill. Short shift into 4th just short of turn
2. Turn 2 is a 45 degree right
hander that starts you up the hill through
the "Esses". Once I shift into 4th
just prior to turn 2 I keep the throttle
pegged and hang on. Through turn 3
the back end can do a little wiggle at
about 100 mph but I just stay in the
throttle. Turn 4 brings you onto the
back straight were I get to about 140+
just prior to the inner loop or
sometimes refereed to as the "bus stop".
HEAVY braking zone again. Down
shift into 3rd. Down to about 60 mph into the
quick right/left/right inner
loop. Turn 5 is a long right hand sweeper that
you do not brake into after
the inner loop. You just modulate the throttle
around the sweeper into a
blind apex that goes down hill. Turn 6 is a left
hander still going down
hill. Another fairly heavy braking zone bringing the
car down from 100+ to
about 50. Turn 7 is the toe of the "boot" and again on
the brakes. Turn 7
starts you back up hill into another blind apex and the
track is very slick
all through this turn. Back into the throttle again up
around 85, then
moderate braking for turn 8. Turn 8 is another down hill
right hander but
you can carry quite a bit of speed through it. Coming out of
turn 8 is down
hill then it changes to a uphill section just prior to turn 9
which is a
left hander with ANOTHER blind apex. This one is tricky as the
trackout
point is about 10 feet from the Armco on the right. Back into the
power, tap
the brakes for turn 10 and carry a lot of speed through the turn.
Turn 11 is
a 90 degree right hander that can be taken at moderate speed
(70+), but once
again the trackout point is close to the concrete and Armco
on the left. Now
were back on the front straight just wailing away. During my
first event
here 3 weeks prior I developed a slight warp on the stock wagner
rotors half
way through the second day. So at lunch time I replaced them with
KVR
slotted. One was a replacement for a defective rotor and the other had
about
15 laps on it. That took care of the warp, but was still getting brake
fade
after 4-5 hot laps. When I got home I fabricated some cooling ducts
using
1.5 X 4.5 X 10 aluminum boxes located in the inspection covers of the
front
air dam. Off the rear of these I use two 2" high temp hoses routed into
the
rear of the rotors. Used some small brackets to keep the hoses away from
the
axle boots and tie wrapped the hoses to various part of the body and tie
rods. Also installed some fresh air ducts to the air filter area to try and
get some fresher air up there. My lap time were in the 2 min. 28 sec. to 2
min. 35 sec. range which is not bad for me, but not outstanding. Average
speed was around 80 mph. Keeped the car on the track both days :)
Still am
getting brake fade, but it start about 2 laps later with the new
cooling
ducts. Developed a slight warp again, this time with the KVR slotted
rotors.
Used up about 1/3 of the pads in 2 days. This track is extremely
hard to
master. There are so many blind apex turns that you need to use
other
reference points ( ie. trees, signs) to begin your turn in's and
maintain a
smooth line through the corner. The "bus stop" is a blast. You
can use a lot
of the rumble strips at each apex to maximize track width. For
those of you
who are NASCAR fans, they run without the "boot" section and go
right from
turn 5 to turn 10. These guys are averaging 115 mph in the trucks
!!!!. I
have not had an opportunity to run that configuration yet, but they
do set it
up for half of the open track sessions. I think I could get to
maybe 90 mph
average. I think I also could get into the 2 min. 25 sec. range
if I got ride
of the extra 200 lb. distraction sitting in the passenger seat
:) Every
instructor has a different opinion of how to drive this track and
you get a
new instructor every day. So every day you almost have to start
over to
accommodate the new instructor. Some like earlier apexes, some want
later.
Its all part of the "learning" experience, but can be somewhat
frustrating at
times. Still. overall had a blast, stayed on the track, did
not break
anything on the car. There was a Acura NSX there that was about
the only car
that I did not lap at least once. He tried to stay with me on
the boot
section but slowly fell back. And on the straight's I just simple
smoked him
by 4-5 car lengths:) :) Prior to going this time I ordered
a set of
non-slotted KVR's and another set of pads. So these will go on
next. I
somewhat suspect part of the fade is induced by the slotted rotors,
but will
keep you informed. Next event is Pocono July 10 & 11th. This is
the "long"
track. Uses a lot of the NASCAR portion of the track. For a map
go to
http://www.imp-auto.com/pda/pocono.gif
Last year I went there as my first
event ever using stock tires and Z-rated
performance friction pads. Running
120 in front straight and 157 in the long
pond straight. Had severe brake
fade and used up the pads completely. Goals
this year will be 135 in front
straight and 170+ in long pond straight. With
the PDA group I am in the top
class so no extra 200 lb. distraction in the
passage seat :) Next post
after Pocono.
David Skultety
- Drive to your limits plus one notch, commit to turns, don't
ever
lift, then pray
your not one notch too far.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:23:29 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Road Course Update - (brakes)
Dave, have you already tried the
Porterfield / Pagid combo ? It sounds the
track is very hard to the brakes
and with the B/P calipers I'd suggest to go
for another hardware the next
time.
The slots should be able to help to take the dust away and
increases cooling
a little. Without slots you'll notice less pad wear but
also some more
fading. I'd be surprised if not.
For the Pagids, have
you looked at the surface lately ? I had problems with
mine and they looked
like someone hit out some pices of it. They have been
sent back to Pagid for
inspection but I haven't heard anything yet. The
replacements were the
z-Mevius pads from Japan. Interestingly, together with
a Subaru Imprezza
Turbo owner I'm the only one that complaints that they are
not that good (too
soft). Many Porsche, BMW M3 and Audi RS2 owners are very
happy with them.
Hmmm, the weight of our cars is very defferent to the
others and may play an
important rule too.
Have you done the rear brakes too ? If not I'd
upgrade the rotors/pads to
somethign better too. With this the car became
more stable when braking into
the corner. I remember Jim was sitting in my
car after lunch on the dyno day
and I went a little fast into a corner. He
was impressed as the car felt
more stable and braking was really good ....
and this with the crappy winter
tires. No need to upgrade the calipers (if
you already have the two-pot
version). Maybe worth a try
:)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 11:36:30 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
W75 Pearl White THANKS
I want to thank every one for the great
responses. The 3 stage paint
probably explains why the excellent body
shop (specializes in Porches and
Mercedes) I use didn't give me a little
bottle with the leftover paint like
they normally do. I guess you
would need a bottle of each kind of paint.
If anybody in Denver needs
good body shop email me privately.
Thanks again
Dennis
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:44:48 -0500
From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: TB Question
Hi all,
I'm thinking about tacking on a bored
throttle body (it's relatively cheap
and I can afford it -- a.k.a. my wife
won't get too upset!) <grin> . With
only an upgraded air
filter, would I really see any improvement? Can the
stock 2nd gen TT's
be pushed any further, as far as fuel intake, and still
benefit? Or
would I risk detonation/knock?
Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer
Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 11:46:11 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Magnacore Plug Wires
The stock Ignition Wire Set on my 92 R/T (NA) went
out at 54,000 miles and
again at 89,000 miles which seems unacceptable
compared to other vehicles I
have owned. The dealer wants $133 for the
parts. Can I expect better
durability and no radio interference from
Magnacore wires or just improved
performance and cosmetics?
Is there
a recommended vendor?
Thanks
Dennis
92 Pearl White R/T with low rpm
missing under load.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jul 1999 09:15:16 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AC problem - stanky!
Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> My
AC has a stanky smell coming from it. I've had the dealer take a look
> at
it and they sprayed some stuff in it (twice, at 2 different
> dealerships)
and now it smells like old socks. I've tried spraying lysol
> in the vents
(underneath the wiper blades) but I only had 1/16th of a can
> and I don't
think that did much.
>
> Someone mentioned crud building up in the
condensation pan. Is there any
> way I can get to that to clean it? Anyone
selling a tech manual for a 97
> VR4?
What you need to do is kill
the mold inside your ducts. You can buy AC air duct
cleaner from Pep
Boys, Kragen, or other chain automotive stores, or you can mix
up a batch in
a squirt bottle using chlorine bleach (Clorox) and water. Then
with the
AC on and the windows open spray it into the input ducts. Input
ducts
are on the outside AND on the inside for recirculation mode. Also
as you spray,
make sure to direct air flow to floor ducts, torso ducts, and
the defroster
ducts. This should take care of it. Note if you use
the Clorox solution, your
AC will smell like bleach for a few days but it is
better than mold!
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Hang up and
drive!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 09:55:19 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!
Well, it's official!
I'm in the
exciting position to take advantage of some stock options
and ESPP buys in
3-4 months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
past 3 months and
I'm taking the money and running! :)
I had initially thought I'd spend
the majority of the $48K on
turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP monster, adding
every manner of go-fast
products, from upgraded intercoolers and larger
injectors, to water
injection and fuel computer. Basically every little part
that is out there
and a rebuild of the enging from the ground up. This has
gotten me staring
at the aftermarket mailorder companies websites quite a bit
recently. I've
been imagining the 3000GT as a new car, with a $9K
Chromallusion paint job
and a Kaze or new Veilside Euro EC bodykit to match.
I have mucho dinero
burning a hole in my stock portfolio!
Then
suddenly, a little voice began to whisper in my head, getting
louder and
louder as the week went by.
Dave... Viper... GTS...
A Viper? GTS
no less?! Could it be? Should it be? I know of a 96
Viper GTS that is
available for $53K in the area. I'm sure I could scrape up
another $5K.
Besides, even if I didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
dollar
bills?
Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to me? Should I
plug my
ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to Jeffrey! I'm not
listening to
Jeffrey!" ???
What would YOU do?
The ultimate
3000GT VR-4 with every performance enhancing item
gracing it's lovely
lines?
... or the beast?
Suggestions and opinions would be
greatly appreciated. I'm in my
delicate impressionable stage right now with
no clear winner!
Thanks.
Dave Allison
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:01:55 EDT
From: MikeVR4@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Wheel
Info
<< I keep missing out on used wheels being offered on
the list, so I guess I
will have to either buy a new set or have a set made
up at a local wheel
shop. If anyone has a set of stock 94 VR4 wheels, even
with peeling chrome,
I'm interested. >>
Someone was(is?) selling
a set of MOMO Superlights, those are an option.
You're looking for
stock wheels, though?
<< What are the critical specs (offset,
etc.) for a 1994 VR4 with the big
calipers? >>
The shop
manual says 46mm(1.8in) offsets for both 17" x 8.5" and 18" x 8.5"
stock
wheels. 114.3mm(4.50in) Pitch Circle Diameter. We got away with 40mm
offset using 17" x 9" Volk TE37's, but that's on a '93 car. Not sure
about
your '94, although the Volks DO clear the Brembo
calipers.
<< Any advice on dealing with the big wheel
companies when buying wheels for
our cars? Do they know our car and
understand about clearing the calipers,
or do I have to spell it out for
them? >>
Not sure about this one. Chances are they have
a matching guide, but I'm
always worried until I see it on the
car.
<< I have more or less decided to buy a set of
wheels/tires for street use,
and mount up a set of Yokohama A032s on the
stock chrome wheels (2 of them
are peeling anyway). My stock Michelins are
down to racing depth (I can see
the air in two of them) so I gotta do
something. >>
Oh, _please_ tell me you're gonna have
enough rubber for the next Porsche
event? I didn't give up my
assignment to Hawaii to go to Omaha just so I
could drive on the track by
myself! <grin>
Mike Willis
'93 Pearl White VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:25:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject:
Team3S: Crank pulley failure
Yesterday, as I was almost home, my power
steering went out. I thought the engine stalled but it didn't. I proceeded up my
driveway and noticed that the charging system light was on and the A/C was
getting warm. The engine sounded fine and I
shut her down. When I looked
under the hood I noticed that the Crank Pulley was at an 15 deg. angle. The
belts were still on
and there were metal shavings from the pulley on the
timing cover.
1.) It seems like the pulley damper failed. What could
cause this failure?
2.) Could this be caused by not using the special
tools that are mentioned in the service manual (MD998754 &
MB990767)
3.) Would the mechanic that replaced the long block a few
months ago noticed that the pulley was going bad or did he install
it
incorrectly (not using the recommended tools)
4.) Are there any
performance pulleys available like Unorthadox. What makes them
better?
Thanks in advance
RAM
92 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:58:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
A Quandry... HELP ME!
Well, I hope you lie awake for countless hours of
countless nights on end
obsessing over this decision. Such quandries
*don't* get any pity from
me. Some *envy* perhaps... ;)
This
might sound petty, but if I had to make the choice, it'd all come
down to
headroom. I love my Stealth, but if the Viper has a bigger
engine AND
more headroom, I'm there!
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Yes, I'm afraid you
*did* go to college for this job.
On Fri, 2 Jul 1999, Dave Allison
wrote:
> Well, it's official!
>
> I'm in the exciting
position to take advantage of some stock options
> and ESPP buys in 3-4
months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
> past 3 months and
I'm taking the money and running! :)
>
> I had initially thought
I'd spend the majority of the $48K on
> turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP
monster, adding every manner of go-fast
> products, from upgraded
intercoolers and larger injectors, to water
> injection and fuel computer.
Basically every little part that is out there
> and a rebuild of the
enging from the ground up. This has gotten me staring
> at the aftermarket
mailorder companies websites quite a bit recently. I've
> been imagining
the 3000GT as a new car, with a $9K Chromallusion paint job
> and a Kaze
or new Veilside Euro EC bodykit to match. I have mucho dinero
> burning a
hole in my stock portfolio!
>
> Then suddenly, a little voice began
to whisper in my head, getting
> louder and louder as the week went
by.
>
> Dave... Viper... GTS...
>
> A Viper? GTS no
less?! Could it be? Should it be? I know of a 96
> Viper GTS that is
available for $53K in the area. I'm sure I could scrape up
> another $5K.
Besides, even if I didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
> dollar
bills?
>
>
> Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to
me? Should I plug my
> ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to
Jeffrey! I'm not listening to
> Jeffrey!" ???
>
>
>
What would YOU do?
>
> The ultimate 3000GT VR-4 with every
performance enhancing item
> gracing it's lovely lines?
>
>
... or the beast?
>
>
> Suggestions and opinions would be
greatly appreciated. I'm in my
> delicate impressionable stage right now
with no clear winner!
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dave
Allison
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 12:52:48 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Web Site update
I have updated my web site www.omega-sw.com/stealth with some
new engine
pictures, new modifications list, and a short page on gasket
porting.
Check it out if your interested.
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jul 1999 13:30:49 PDT
From: Michael Reiss <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!
Love to be in your position with that
kind of dilema....
I would go with the "ultimate" VR4
If you are looking
for a fast car WITH handling
I think you could go a lot farther with a
correctly modified VR4
than a Viper.
I was able to repeatedly pass a Viper
on a road course here in CA, Thunder
Hill. My VR4 is just slightly
modified and I was constantly riding this
guys bumper in any kind of turn
and out ahead far enough in the straights to
stay ahead as he came screaming
up the track.
I'm sure this was partially due to an average drive behind the
wheel of the
Viper but none the less I had to pat myself on the back after
the track day
was over. The VR4's performance was the topic of a lot
of conversations in
the pit area (except the Viper owner who turned tail and
left early).
Don't get me wrong the Viper is one hell of a car but don't
underestimate
the untapped potential of the VR4. Throw in the chunk of
change you are
talking about and I'm sure I'll see you and the car gracing
the pages of the
latest performance car rag.
Best of Luck,
Green with
envy,
Mike
>From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<stealth@starnet.net>
>Subject:
Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!
>Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 09:55:19
-0700
>
>Well, it's official!
>
> I'm in the exciting
position to take advantage of some stock options
>and ESPP buys in 3-4
months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
>past 3 months and
I'm taking the money and running! :)
>
> I had initially thought I'd
spend the majority of the $48K on
>turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP monster,
adding every manner of go-fast
>products, from upgraded intercoolers and
larger injectors, to water
>injection and fuel computer. Basically every
little part that is out there
>and a rebuild of the enging from the ground
up. This has gotten me staring
>at the aftermarket mailorder companies
websites quite a bit recently. I've
>been imagining the 3000GT as a new
car, with a $9K Chromallusion paint job
>and a Kaze or new Veilside Euro
EC bodykit to match. I have mucho dinero
>burning a hole in my stock
portfolio!
>
> Then suddenly, a little voice began to whisper in my
head, getting
>louder and louder as the week went by.
>
>
Dave... Viper... GTS...
>
> A Viper? GTS no less?! Could it be?
Should it be? I know of a 96
>Viper GTS that is available for $53K in the
area. I'm sure I could scrape
>up
>another $5K. Besides, even if I
didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
>dollar
bills?
>
>
> Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to
me? Should I plug my
>ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to Jeffrey!
I'm not listening to
>Jeffrey!" ???
>
>
> What would YOU
do?
>
> The ultimate 3000GT VR-4 with every performance enhancing
item
>gracing it's lovely lines?
>
> ... or the
beast?
>
>
> Suggestions and opinions would be greatly
appreciated. I'm in my
>delicate impressionable stage right now with no
clear winner!
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave
Allison
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 2 Jul 1999 22:45:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: A Quandry... (Admin Message !)
Please respond offline to Dave's
post or keep this thread on Starnet ONLY !
Thanks !
Roger, for the
Admins
93'3000GT TT
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:01:34 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels
For OEM rims, either Aluminum or Chromed, take a look at
www.aaarims.com.
They have fairly
good prices, plus can redo your old ones if banged or chipped.
-
--
On Thu, 01 Jul 1999 23:36:38 Merritt wrote:
>I keep
missing out on used wheels being offered on the list, so I guess I
>will
have to either buy a new set or have a set made up at a local wheel
>shop.
If anyone has a set of stock 94 VR4 wheels, even with peeling chrome,
>I'm
interested.
>
>What are the critical specs (offset, etc.) for
a 1994 VR4 with the big
>calipers?
>Any advice on dealing with the
big wheel companies when buying wheels for
>our cars? Do they know our car
and understand about clearing the calipers,
>or do I have to spell it out
for them?
>
>I have more or less decided to buy a set of
wheels/tires for street use,
>and mount up a set of Yokohama A032s on the
stock chrome wheels (2 of them
>are peeling anyway). My stock Michelins
are down to racing depth (I can see
>the air in two of them) so I gotta do
something.
>
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:09:04 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pulling to the right = Bad Struts?
Mike Baldwin
wrote:
>
> I took my car in a few weeks ago to get it checked out
(before I bought
> it) and the mechanic told me that the struts were
leaking.
>
> I took the car down to a different dealership to have
them replace the
> struts, but they called me back telling me that the
struts were not
> leaking, but in fact only LOOKED like they were leaking
because of some
> spray (oil? grease?) that comes on the struts. OK. I
called the original
> dealership only to find out that the mechanic was no
longer working there.
>
> They checked out the car at the original
dealership and no leaking struts.
Struts should be replaced when leaking
or worn. Typically they last 40K-80K
miles. When I replaced mine
at 85K, they were not leaking, they were damping
just fine, however they were
clanking when going over bumps.
> Then after driving the car I noticed
it pulled to the right. So I took it
> in for a 4 wheel alignment. Now I'm
not sure if they didn't do anything or
> what but the car still pulls to
the right.
>
> They are offering me to do another alignment, but
its starting to piss me
> off. The service manager seems like a pretty
nice guy so I don't want to
> alienate him, but I've gotta lay down the
law if this bogus $/// keeps
> happening!
>
> Does anyone
think the two (struts & pull) could be related?
Probably
not.
Pulling is typically due to different caster or camber settings
between left and
right wheels, tires on one side having more friction (i.e.
under inflated,
worn), or the thrust between the front and rear being
off. First check that
your tires are inflated properly. Then, if
your tires are not directional, try
changing sides and see if the pull
follows the tires. Also the alignment shop
should give you a
computerized printout of the camber & caster of each wheel,
the toe of
each axle, and perhaps some info on the thrust between the front and
rear
axle. They should have no problem making your camber identical for
left
and right sides. If your caster is different between the left and
right sides,
you'll need to find out why -- i.e. suspension problems?
You could correct
caster with the Ground Control alignment plate kit.
Thrust problems are when
the 'axles' (we have independent suspension) are not
perfectly parallel.
- --
Hang up and drive!
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 03 Jul 1999 09:26:20 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Useful links
-
--------------1EAD90F9C9CBE1CCD79660BC
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
While looking for an
outlet to add air conditioning to my Jeep, I came
across these. Hope
they help somebody.
#1: MICO B.V. parts, accessories
for US made cars, automobile, trucks
from GM, Ford, Chrysler,
Jeep.
#2: AAPAK - Auto Air Conditioning, Parts and Kits
-
--
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
-
--------------1EAD90F9C9CBE1CCD79660BC
Content-Type: text/html;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!doctype html
public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
While
looking for an outlet to add air conditioning to my Jeep, I came
across
these. Hope they help somebody.<a
href="http://www.mico.net/parmain1e.html"></a>
<p><a
href="http://www.mico.net/parmain1e.html">#1:
MICO
B.V. parts, accessories for US made cars, automobile, trucks from GM,
Ford,
Chrysler, Jeep.</a>
<p>#2: <a
href="http://www.aapak.com/">AAPAK - Auto Air Conditioning,
Parts and
Kits</a>
<br>--
<br>-Jeff
Crabtree
<br> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
<br>
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
<br>
St.
Louis, MO
<br> </html>
-
--------------1EAD90F9C9CBE1CCD79660BC--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 03 Jul 1999 21:33:14 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re:Crank pulley failure
rammer11@ix.netcom.com
wrote:
> the Crank Pulley was at a 15 deg. angle. The belts were still
on
> and there were metal shavings from the pulley on the timing
cover.
> 1.) pulley damper failed. What could cause this?
> 2.) ?not
using special tools in the service manual (MD998754 & MB990767)
> 3.)
mechanic replaced long block months ago noticed pulley was going bad or did he
install
> it incorrectly?
> 4.) Are there any performance pulleys
available like Unorthadox. What makes them better?
> RAM 92 R/T
TT
This occurred because it was assembled improperly, IMO. Maybe
the crank bolt was undertightened.
Maybe they installed it improperly over
the key/keyway, misaligned from the get-go, and just got worse.
These parts
of the car are WAY over-engineered, VERY strong, and do NOT "just fail"
without
some significant insult either in installation, or you revved the
engine up so high the rest of the
motor failed WAY before the darn harmonic
balancer would. But--the engine is whole otherwise,
so it was installed
wrong.
The Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley is just that, it LOSES the
important
(IMO, and in the opinion of most everyfactory and respected
street/long
race engine builder out there) HARMONIC DAMPENING
function, so
I wouldn't use it...
This is a good technical question for the list; hope
this helps,
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 3 Jul 1999 07:38:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
auto-contact-list.html
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEC527.10EFCCE0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
A fairly large compendium of automotive suppliers I ran across
while surfing the net.
looks like it's worth saving.
Jim
Berry
http://www.dsea.com/~frank/auto-contact-list.html
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEC527.10EFCCE0
Content-Type:
application/octet-stream;
name="auto-contact-list.html.url"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Content-Disposition:
attachment;
filename="auto-contact-list.html.url"
[DEFAULT]
BASEURL=http://www.dsea.com/~frank/auto-contact-list.html
[InternetShortcut]
URL=http://www.dsea.com/~frank/auto-contact-list.html
Modified=60985D4A61C5BE0184
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEC527.10EFCCE0--
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------------------------------
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of Team3S Digest V1 #222
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