--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #222
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Saturday, July 3 1999          Volume 01 : Number 222




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:37:13 EDT
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Road Course Update - Watkins Glen

Another one of those long posts. Went to The Glen for the second time on June
31st and July 1st. After the last event there three weeks ago installed brake
ducting in an attempt to alleviate brake fade. My current setup on my 1993
VR4 includes a Blitz boost controller set to 1.05 bars, GAB shocks, GC
springs 650 front and 500 rears, GC camber plates set at 3.2 degrees neg.
camber, K&N filter, gutted pre-cats, "test" pipe in place of main cat, RP01
17x9 shod with 255/45/17 G-Force rubber, tire pressures are 36 front and 33
rear (cold), brake cooling ducts using two 2" hoses per side, two 2" hoses
running up into the K&N intake area for some fresh air, full interior minus
spare/jack/rear deck/cd changer, simpson 5 point harness's, big red
brembo/porsche front calipers with pagid orange pads, KVR 94&up slotted front
rotors, HOT LAP timing system, road race engineering rear tower brace. For
those of you who wish to follow along with the track map, go to
http://www.silhouet.com/motorsport/tracks/watkins.html. I once again went
with the trackmasters group which is VERY strict on releasing people to open
track status. I have a fair amount of track time at Pocono and Lime Rock
along with 2 days at Summit Point. Trackmasters stages are, students with
instructors, then solo with student group, and finally sign off into open
track status. Due to my limited time on the track I have only achieved solo
status. The format this time was NO solo. In it's place was an advanced
driving class with instructors designed to PUSH the students to be more self
analytical. Topics included track out speeds at various corners, consistency
throughout the track, and "offline" exercises. My instructor was EXTREMELY
tough and expected nothing short of perfect. For example, if I was off line
into a corner by 4" that was way too wide. Ok, enough of the preamble, here's
a walk through of the course. Front straight tops out 3rd gear at 120 into a
diving 90 degree right hander. HEAVY braking zone. Full on the brakes just
short of wheel lock up. Track out point past turn one still is going down
hill. Short shift into 4th just short of turn 2. Turn 2 is a 45 degree right
hander that starts you up the hill through the "Esses". Once I shift into 4th
just prior to turn 2 I keep the throttle pegged and hang on. Through turn 3
the back end can do a little wiggle at about 100 mph but I just stay in the
throttle. Turn 4 brings you onto the back straight were I get to about 140+
just prior to the inner loop or sometimes refereed to as the "bus stop".
HEAVY braking zone again. Down shift into 3rd. Down to about 60 mph into the
quick right/left/right inner loop. Turn 5 is a long right hand sweeper that
you do not brake into after the inner loop. You just modulate the throttle
around the sweeper into a blind apex that goes down hill. Turn 6 is a left
hander still going down hill. Another fairly heavy braking zone bringing the
car down from 100+ to about 50. Turn 7 is the toe of the "boot" and again on
the brakes. Turn 7 starts you back up hill into another blind apex and the
track is very slick all through this turn. Back into the throttle again up
around 85, then moderate braking for turn 8. Turn 8 is another down hill
right hander but you can carry quite a bit of speed through it. Coming out of
turn 8 is down hill then it changes to a uphill section just prior to turn 9
which is a left hander with ANOTHER blind apex. This one is tricky as the
trackout point is about 10 feet from the Armco on the right. Back into the
power, tap the brakes for turn 10 and carry a lot of speed through the turn.
Turn 11 is a 90 degree right hander that can be taken at moderate speed
(70+), but once again the trackout point is close to the concrete and Armco
on the left. Now were back on the front straight just wailing away. During my
first event here 3 weeks prior I developed a slight warp on the stock wagner
rotors half way through the second day. So at lunch time I replaced them with
KVR slotted. One was a replacement for a defective rotor and the other had
about 15 laps on it. That took care of the warp, but was still getting brake
fade after 4-5 hot laps. When I got home I fabricated some cooling ducts
using 1.5 X 4.5 X 10 aluminum boxes located in the inspection covers of the
front air dam. Off the rear of these I use two 2" high temp hoses routed into
the rear of the rotors. Used some small brackets to keep the hoses away from
the axle boots and tie wrapped the hoses to various part of the body and tie
rods. Also installed some fresh air ducts to the air filter area to try and
get some fresher air up there. My lap time were in the 2 min. 28 sec. to 2
min. 35 sec. range which is not bad for me, but not outstanding. Average
speed was around 80 mph. Keeped the car on the track both days :)  Still am
getting brake fade, but it start about 2 laps later with the new cooling
ducts. Developed a slight warp again, this time with the KVR slotted rotors.
Used up about 1/3 of the pads in 2 days. This track is extremely hard to
master. There are so many blind apex turns that you need to use other
reference points ( ie. trees, signs) to begin your turn in's and maintain a
smooth line through the corner. The "bus stop" is a blast. You can use a lot
of the rumble strips at each apex to maximize track width. For those of you
who are NASCAR fans, they run without the "boot" section and go right from
turn 5 to turn 10. These guys are averaging 115 mph in the trucks !!!!. I
have not had an opportunity to run that configuration yet, but they do set it
up for half of the open track sessions. I think I could get to maybe 90 mph
average. I think I also could get into the 2 min. 25 sec. range if I got ride
of the extra 200 lb. distraction sitting in the passenger seat :) Every
instructor has a different opinion of how to drive this track and you get a
new instructor every day. So every day you almost have to start over to
accommodate the new instructor. Some like earlier apexes, some want later.
Its all part of the "learning" experience, but can be somewhat frustrating at
times. Still. overall had a blast, stayed on the track, did not break
anything on the car. There was a Acura NSX there that was about the only car
that I did not lap at least once. He tried to stay with me on the boot
section but slowly fell back. And on the straight's I just simple smoked him
by 4-5 car lengths:) :)  Prior to going this time I ordered a set of
non-slotted KVR's and another set of pads. So these will go on next. I
somewhat suspect part of the fade is induced by the slotted rotors, but will
keep you informed. Next event is Pocono July 10 & 11th. This is the "long"
track. Uses a lot of the NASCAR portion of the track. For a map go to
http://www.imp-auto.com/pda/pocono.gif   Last year I went there as my first
event ever using stock tires and Z-rated performance friction pads. Running
120 in front straight and 157 in the long pond straight. Had severe brake
fade and used up the pads completely. Goals this year will be 135 in front
straight and 170+ in long pond straight. With the PDA group I am in the top
class so no extra 200 lb. distraction in the passage seat :)   Next post
after Pocono.

David Skultety -  Drive to your limits plus one notch, commit to turns, don't
ever lift, then pray
                         your not one notch too far.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 17:23:29 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road Course Update - (brakes)

Dave, have you already tried the Porterfield / Pagid combo ? It sounds the
track is very hard to the brakes and with the B/P calipers I'd suggest to go
for another hardware the next time.

The slots should be able to help to take the dust away and increases cooling
a little. Without slots you'll notice less pad wear but also some more
fading. I'd be surprised if not.

For the Pagids, have you looked at the surface lately ? I had problems with
mine and they looked like someone hit out some pices of it. They have been
sent back to Pagid for inspection but I haven't heard anything yet. The
replacements were the z-Mevius pads from Japan. Interestingly, together with
a Subaru Imprezza Turbo owner I'm the only one that complaints that they are
not that good (too soft). Many Porsche, BMW M3 and Audi RS2 owners are very
happy with them. Hmmm, the weight of our cars is very defferent to the
others and may play an important rule too.

Have you done the rear brakes too ? If not I'd upgrade the rotors/pads to
somethign better too. With this the car became more stable when braking into
the corner. I remember Jim was sitting in my car after lunch on the dyno day
and I went a little fast into a corner. He was impressed as the car felt
more stable and braking was really good .... and this with the crappy winter
tires. No need to upgrade the calipers (if you already have the two-pot
version). Maybe worth a try :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 11:36:30 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: W75 Pearl White THANKS

I want to thank every one for the great responses.  The 3 stage paint
probably explains why the excellent body shop (specializes in Porches and
Mercedes) I use didn't give me a little bottle with the leftover paint like
they normally do.  I guess you would need a bottle of each kind of paint.

If anybody in Denver needs good body shop email me privately.

Thanks again
Dennis
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 10:44:48 -0500
From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: TB Question

Hi all,

I'm thinking about tacking on a bored throttle body (it's relatively cheap
and I can afford it -- a.k.a. my wife won't get too upset!)  <grin> .  With
only an upgraded air filter, would I really see any improvement?  Can the
stock 2nd gen TT's be pushed any further, as far as fuel intake, and still
benefit?  Or would I risk detonation/knock?

Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 11:46:11 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Magnacore Plug Wires

The stock Ignition Wire Set on my 92 R/T (NA) went out at 54,000 miles and
again at 89,000 miles which seems unacceptable compared to other vehicles I
have owned.  The dealer wants $133 for the parts.  Can I expect better
durability and no radio interference from Magnacore wires or just improved
performance and cosmetics?

Is there a recommended vendor?

Thanks
Dennis
92 Pearl White R/T with low rpm missing under load.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 09:15:16 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AC problem - stanky!

Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> My AC has a stanky smell coming from it. I've had the dealer take a look
> at it and they sprayed some stuff in it (twice, at 2 different
> dealerships) and now it smells like old socks. I've tried spraying lysol
> in the vents (underneath the wiper blades) but I only had 1/16th of a can
> and I don't think that did much.
>
> Someone mentioned crud building up in the condensation pan. Is there any
> way I can get to that to clean it? Anyone selling a tech manual for a 97
> VR4?

What you need to do is kill the mold inside your ducts.  You can buy AC air duct
cleaner from Pep Boys, Kragen, or other chain automotive stores, or you can mix
up a batch in a squirt bottle using chlorine bleach (Clorox) and water.  Then
with the AC on and the windows open spray it into the input ducts.  Input ducts
are on the outside AND on the inside for recirculation mode.  Also as you spray,
make sure to direct air flow to floor ducts, torso ducts, and the defroster
ducts.  This should take care of it.  Note if you use the Clorox solution, your
AC will smell like bleach for a few days but it is better than mold!

Good luck,
Ken
- --
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 09:55:19 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!

Well, it's official!

I'm in the exciting position to take advantage of some stock options
and ESPP buys in 3-4 months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
past 3 months and I'm taking the money and running! :)

I had initially thought I'd spend the majority of the $48K on
turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP monster, adding every manner of go-fast
products, from upgraded intercoolers and larger injectors, to water
injection and fuel computer. Basically every little part that is out there
and a rebuild of the enging from the ground up. This has gotten me staring
at the aftermarket mailorder companies websites quite a bit recently. I've
been imagining the 3000GT as a new car, with a $9K Chromallusion paint job
and a Kaze or new Veilside Euro EC bodykit to match. I have mucho dinero
burning a hole in my stock portfolio!

Then suddenly, a little voice began to whisper in my head, getting
louder and louder as the week went by.

Dave... Viper... GTS...

A Viper? GTS no less?! Could it be? Should it be? I know of a 96
Viper GTS that is available for $53K in the area. I'm sure I could scrape up
another $5K. Besides, even if I didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
dollar bills?


Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to me? Should I plug my
ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to Jeffrey! I'm not listening to
Jeffrey!" ???


What would YOU do?

The ultimate 3000GT VR-4 with every performance enhancing item
gracing it's lovely lines?

... or the beast?


Suggestions and opinions would be greatly appreciated. I'm in my
delicate impressionable stage right now with no clear winner!

Thanks.

Dave Allison

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:01:55 EDT
From: MikeVR4@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Wheel Info

<<  I keep missing out on used wheels being offered on the list, so I guess I
will have to either buy a new set or have a set made up at a local wheel
shop. If anyone has a set of stock 94 VR4 wheels, even with peeling chrome,
I'm interested. >>

Someone was(is?) selling a set of MOMO Superlights, those are an option. 
You're looking for stock wheels, though?

<<  What are the critical specs (offset, etc.)  for a 1994 VR4 with the big
calipers? >>

The shop manual says 46mm(1.8in) offsets for both 17" x 8.5" and 18" x 8.5"
stock wheels.  114.3mm(4.50in) Pitch Circle Diameter.  We got away with 40mm
offset using 17" x 9" Volk TE37's, but that's on a '93 car.  Not sure about
your '94, although the Volks DO clear the Brembo calipers.

<<  Any advice on dealing with the big wheel companies when buying wheels for
our cars? Do they know our car and understand about clearing the calipers,
or do I have to spell it out for them?  >>

Not sure about this one.  Chances are they have a matching guide, but I'm
always worried until I see it on the car.

<<  I have more or less decided to buy a set of wheels/tires for street use,
and mount up a set of Yokohama A032s on the stock chrome wheels (2 of them
are peeling anyway). My stock Michelins are down to racing depth (I can see
the air in two of them) so I gotta do something.   >>

Oh, _please_ tell me you're gonna have enough rubber for the next Porsche
event?  I didn't give up my assignment to Hawaii to go to Omaha just so I
could drive on the track by myself! <grin>

Mike Willis
'93 Pearl White VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:25:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Team3S: Crank pulley failure

Yesterday, as I was almost home, my power steering went out. I thought the engine stalled but it didn't. I proceeded up my
driveway and noticed that the charging system light was on and the A/C was getting warm. The engine sounded fine and I
shut her down. When I looked under the hood I noticed that the Crank Pulley was at an 15 deg. angle. The belts were still on
and there were metal shavings from the pulley on the timing cover.

1.) It seems like the pulley damper failed. What could cause this failure?

2.) Could this be caused by not using the special tools that are mentioned in the service manual (MD998754 & MB990767)

3.) Would the mechanic that replaced the long block a few months ago noticed that the pulley was going bad or did he install
it incorrectly (not using the recommended tools)

4.) Are there any performance pulleys available like Unorthadox. What makes them better?

Thanks in advance
RAM
92 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 13:58:20 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!

Well, I hope you lie awake for countless hours of countless nights on end
obsessing over this decision.  Such quandries *don't* get any pity from
me.  Some *envy* perhaps... ;)

This might sound petty, but if I had to make the choice, it'd all come
down to headroom.  I love my Stealth, but if the Viper has a bigger
engine AND more headroom, I'm there! 

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

Yes, I'm afraid you *did* go to college for this job.

On Fri, 2 Jul 1999, Dave Allison wrote:

> Well, it's official!
>
> I'm in the exciting position to take advantage of some stock options
> and ESPP buys in 3-4 months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
> past 3 months and I'm taking the money and running! :)
>
> I had initially thought I'd spend the majority of the $48K on
> turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP monster, adding every manner of go-fast
> products, from upgraded intercoolers and larger injectors, to water
> injection and fuel computer. Basically every little part that is out there
> and a rebuild of the enging from the ground up. This has gotten me staring
> at the aftermarket mailorder companies websites quite a bit recently. I've
> been imagining the 3000GT as a new car, with a $9K Chromallusion paint job
> and a Kaze or new Veilside Euro EC bodykit to match. I have mucho dinero
> burning a hole in my stock portfolio!
>
> Then suddenly, a little voice began to whisper in my head, getting
> louder and louder as the week went by.
>
> Dave... Viper... GTS...
>
> A Viper? GTS no less?! Could it be? Should it be? I know of a 96
> Viper GTS that is available for $53K in the area. I'm sure I could scrape up
> another $5K. Besides, even if I didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
> dollar bills?
>
>
> Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to me? Should I plug my
> ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to Jeffrey! I'm not listening to
> Jeffrey!" ???
>
>
> What would YOU do?
>
> The ultimate 3000GT VR-4 with every performance enhancing item
> gracing it's lovely lines?
>
> ... or the beast?
>
>
> Suggestions and opinions would be greatly appreciated. I'm in my
> delicate impressionable stage right now with no clear winner!
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dave Allison
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 12:52:48 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Web Site update

I have updated my web site www.omega-sw.com/stealth with some new engine
pictures, new modifications list, and a short page on gasket porting.
Check it out if your interested.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 13:30:49 PDT
From: Michael Reiss <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!

Love to be in your position with that kind of dilema....
I would go with the "ultimate" VR4
If you are looking for a fast car WITH handling
I think you could go a lot farther with a correctly modified VR4
than a Viper.
I was able to repeatedly pass a Viper on a road course here in CA, Thunder
Hill.  My VR4 is just slightly modified and I was constantly riding this
guys bumper in any kind of turn and out ahead far enough in the straights to
stay ahead as he came screaming up the track.
I'm sure this was partially due to an average drive behind the wheel of the
Viper but none the less I had to pat myself on the back after the track day
was over.  The VR4's performance was the topic of a lot of conversations in
the pit area (except the Viper owner who turned tail and left early).
Don't get me wrong the Viper is one hell of a car but don't underestimate
the untapped potential of the VR4.  Throw in the chunk of change you are
talking about and I'm sure I'll see you and the car gracing the pages of the
latest performance car rag.
Best of Luck,
Green with envy,
Mike

>From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <stealth@starnet.net>
>Subject: Team3S: A Quandry... HELP ME!
>Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 09:55:19 -0700
>
>Well, it's official!
>
> I'm in the exciting position to take advantage of some stock options
>and ESPP buys in 3-4 months. My company stock has more than doubled in the
>past 3 months and I'm taking the money and running! :)
>
> I had initially thought I'd spend the majority of the $48K on
>turning my 93 VR-4 into a HP monster, adding every manner of go-fast
>products, from upgraded intercoolers and larger injectors, to water
>injection and fuel computer. Basically every little part that is out there
>and a rebuild of the enging from the ground up. This has gotten me staring
>at the aftermarket mailorder companies websites quite a bit recently. I've
>been imagining the 3000GT as a new car, with a $9K Chromallusion paint job
>and a Kaze or new Veilside Euro EC bodykit to match. I have mucho dinero
>burning a hole in my stock portfolio!
>
> Then suddenly, a little voice began to whisper in my head, getting
>louder and louder as the week went by.
>
> Dave... Viper... GTS...
>
> A Viper? GTS no less?! Could it be? Should it be? I know of a 96
>Viper GTS that is available for $53K in the area. I'm sure I could scrape
>up
>another $5K. Besides, even if I didn't... how could he turn down 530 100
>dollar bills?
>
>
> Is this the dark side of the Force speaking to me? Should I plug my
>ears and yell loudly, "I'm not listening to Jeffrey! I'm not listening to
>Jeffrey!" ???
>
>
> What would YOU do?
>
> The ultimate 3000GT VR-4 with every performance enhancing item
>gracing it's lovely lines?
>
> ... or the beast?
>
>
> Suggestions and opinions would be greatly appreciated. I'm in my
>delicate impressionable stage right now with no clear winner!
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave Allison
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1999 22:45:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A Quandry... (Admin Message !)

Please respond offline to Dave's post or keep this thread on Starnet ONLY !

Thanks !

Roger, for the Admins
93'3000GT TT

<snip>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:01:34 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheels

For OEM rims, either Aluminum or Chromed, take a look at www.aaarims.com.

They have fairly good prices, plus can redo your old ones if banged or chipped.
- --

On Thu, 01 Jul 1999 23:36:38   Merritt wrote:
>I keep missing out on used wheels being offered on the list, so I guess I
>will have to either buy a new set or have a set made up at a local wheel
>shop. If anyone has a set of stock 94 VR4 wheels, even with peeling chrome,
>I'm interested.
>
>What are the critical specs (offset, etc.)  for a 1994 VR4 with the big
>calipers?
>Any advice on dealing with the big wheel companies when buying wheels for
>our cars? Do they know our car and understand about clearing the calipers,
>or do I have to spell it out for them?
>
>I have more or less decided to buy a set of wheels/tires for street use,
>and mount up a set of Yokohama A032s on the stock chrome wheels (2 of them
>are peeling anyway). My stock Michelins are down to racing depth (I can see
>the air in two of them) so I gotta do something.
>
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 02 Jul 1999 15:09:04 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pulling to the right = Bad Struts?

Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> I took my car in a few weeks ago to get it checked out (before I bought
> it) and the mechanic told me that the struts were leaking.
>
> I took the car down to a different dealership to have them replace the
> struts, but they called me back telling me that the struts were not
> leaking, but in fact only LOOKED like they were leaking because of some
> spray (oil? grease?) that comes on the struts. OK. I called the original
> dealership only to find out that the mechanic was no longer working there.
>
> They checked out the car at the original dealership and no leaking struts.

Struts should be replaced when leaking or worn.  Typically they last 40K-80K
miles.  When I replaced mine at 85K, they were not leaking, they were damping
just fine, however they were clanking when going over bumps.

> Then after driving the car I noticed it pulled to the right. So I took it
> in for a 4 wheel alignment. Now I'm not sure if they didn't do anything or
> what but the car still pulls to the right.
>
> They are offering me to do another alignment, but its starting to piss me
> off. The service manager seems like a pretty nice guy so I don't want to
> alienate him, but I've gotta lay down the law if this bogus $/// keeps
> happening!
>
> Does anyone think the two (struts & pull) could be related?

Probably not.

Pulling is typically due to different caster or camber settings between left and
right wheels, tires on one side having more friction (i.e. under inflated,
worn), or the thrust between the front and rear being off.  First check that
your tires are inflated properly.  Then, if your tires are not directional, try
changing sides and see if the pull follows the tires.  Also  the alignment shop
should give you a computerized printout of the camber & caster of each wheel,
the toe of each axle, and perhaps some info on the thrust between the front and
rear axle.  They should have no problem making your camber identical for left
and right sides.  If your caster is different between the left and right sides,
you'll need to find out why -- i.e. suspension problems?  You could correct
caster with the Ground Control alignment plate kit.  Thrust problems are when
the 'axles' (we have independent suspension) are not perfectly parallel.

- --
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 09:26:20 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Useful links

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While looking for an outlet to add air conditioning to my Jeep, I came
across these.  Hope they help somebody.

#1:    MICO B.V. parts, accessories for US made cars, automobile, trucks
from GM, Ford, Chrysler, Jeep.

#2:   AAPAK - Auto Air Conditioning, Parts and Kits
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
While looking for an outlet to add air conditioning to my Jeep, I came
across these.&nbsp; Hope they help somebody.<a href="http://www.mico.net/parmain1e.html"></a>
<p><a href="http://www.mico.net/parmain1e.html">#1:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; MICO
B.V. parts, accessories for US made cars, automobile, trucks from GM, Ford,
Chrysler, Jeep.</a>
<p>#2:&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="http://www.aapak.com/">AAPAK - Auto Air Conditioning,
Parts and Kits</a>
<br>--
<br>-Jeff Crabtree
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; '93 Wrangler
4.0L Sport
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
St. Louis, MO
<br>&nbsp;</html>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 03 Jul 1999 21:33:14 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:Crank pulley failure

rammer11@ix.netcom.com wrote:

> the Crank Pulley was at a 15 deg. angle. The belts were still on
> and there were metal shavings from the pulley on the timing cover.
> 1.) pulley damper failed. What could cause this?
> 2.) ?not using special tools in the service manual (MD998754 & MB990767)
> 3.) mechanic replaced long block months ago noticed pulley was going bad or did he install
> it incorrectly?
> 4.) Are there any performance pulleys available like Unorthadox. What makes them better?
> RAM 92 R/T TT

This occurred because it was assembled improperly, IMO.  Maybe the crank bolt was undertightened.
Maybe they installed it improperly over the key/keyway, misaligned from the get-go, and just got worse.
These parts of the car are WAY over-engineered, VERY strong, and do NOT "just fail" without
some significant insult either in installation, or you revved the engine up so high the rest of the
motor failed WAY before the darn harmonic balancer would.  But--the engine is whole otherwise,
so it was installed wrong.

The Unorthodox Underdrive Pulley is just that, it LOSES the important
(IMO, and in the opinion of most everyfactory and respected street/long
race engine builder out there) HARMONIC DAMPENING
function, so I wouldn't use it...

This is a good technical question for the list; hope this helps,
Jack Tertadian

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 3 Jul 1999 07:38:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: auto-contact-list.html

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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A fairly large compendium of automotive suppliers I ran across while surfing the net.
looks like it's worth saving.

   Jim Berry
 http://www.dsea.com/~frank/auto-contact-list.html

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URL=http://www.dsea.com/~frank/auto-contact-list.html
Modified=60985D4A61C5BE0184

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End of Team3S Digest V1 #222
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