--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #218
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Monday, June 28
1999 Volume 01 : Number
218
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 13:08:19 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
See "Section I" at http://beam.to/GTO_Manual <http://beam.to/GTO_Manual> .
I)
Simple (but common) Problems
Having trouble with your pop-up lights, or
passenger side window?
It could be that you have accidently pushed one of two
annoying buttons...
If your pop-up lights are unwilling to go down, then the
most likely problem is
that you have pressed the "please stay up" button.
This is situated under the
button for the fog/aux lights (as seen by the
arrow in the diagram). One good use
for this button is to clean the headlamps
without having to turn the car on.
If you are having trouble getting the
passenger side window to work, then it
could just be that you have mistakenly
pressed the power window lock button
(WDO lock) situated on the driver side
window control panel.
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 21:22:35 -0400
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
- -
>It could be that
you have accidently pushed one of two annoying buttons...
It
was.
I went out there immediately to check...and voila'! Problem solved.
I had
let my sister drive it to the store (with me riding shotgun of course!)
and
in fumbling around with the headlights she hit it, as that is when
it
started.
Thanks!
</dummy mode off>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:36:23 -0600
From: "waflestomp" <waflestomp@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: annoying pot holes
I recently hit a monster pot hole, it has
caused several problems:
1. ECS light now flashes
2. Broke
the wheel and trashed the tire
3. popped the tweeter out of the
dash
and now the one I haven't a clue how to fix
4. The
radiator warning light on the instrument panel comes on at will.
Usually when
the car is cold (it is summer here so it isn't THAT cold). I
have
checked the level, and it seems fine. Was wondering if it could
have
loosened the sensor wires and caused this. The engine temp does
not seem to
be out of control. Also was wondering if the radiator cap
could cause the
problem (maybe not pressurized properly or
something)
Steve Davis
92 3K GT VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 21:56:11 -0400
From: "MITCHELL, Ron @Toronto" <rmitchell@shl.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Post-Eibach rattling noises
I recently had a set of Eibach springs
installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
local performance shop. While the ride and
handling has been improved, ever
since, I've heard a rattling noise when
hitting small road imperfections.
I've even heard it when going over speed
bumps at very low speeds. It seems
to happen at all our corners and is quite
predictable. The rattling noise is
very similar to the noise I once
experienced on another car that had lost
its brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is
this normal with Eibachs, or has
something been overlooked by the
installers?
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:03:41 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: annoying pot holes
As an aside, if it's not too late, you should
file a claim with the
agency responsible for maintaining that road and let
them pay for the
diagnosis and repair.
Bruce
3Si
#0243
waflestomp wrote:
>
> I recently hit a monster pot
hole, it has caused several problems:
>
> 1. ECS light now
flashes
> 2. Broke the wheel and trashed the tire
> 3.
popped the tweeter out of the dash
>
> and now the one I haven't a
clue how to fix
>
> 4. The radiator warning light on the
instrument panel comes on at will.
> Usually when the car is cold (it is
summer here so it isn't THAT cold). I
> have checked the level, and
it seems fine. Was wondering if it could have
> loosened the sensor
wires and caused this. The engine temp does not seem to
> be out of
control. Also was wondering if the radiator cap could cause the
>
problem (maybe not pressurized properly or something)
>
> Steve
Davis
> 92 3K GT VR-4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 22:46:43 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
I have installed 3 sets of Eibach
springs which have caused this problem.
The rear springs are compressing
against each other.. Fix: wrap & glue
rubber hose on them.
Front
springs are similar, but moving around a little on the perch.
Same
fix.
Last time I spoke with Eibach they denied having any
complaints about this.
I see that there is still a problem.
Normal, I
would say yes.. Acceptable, I would say no.
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of MITCHELL, Ron
@Toronto
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 8:56
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
I recently had a set of Eibach
springs installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
local performance shop. While the
ride and handling has been improved, ever
since, I've heard a rattling noise
when hitting small road imperfections.
I've even heard it when going over
speed bumps at very low speeds. It seems
to happen at all our corners and is
quite predictable. The rattling noise is
very similar to the noise I once
experienced on another car that had lost
its brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is
this normal with Eibachs, or has
something been overlooked by the
installers?
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 23:42:50 CDT
From: Curt Gendron <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Possible leaking turbo
Hey everyone,
I need some expert
advice. A few weeks ago, I changed my spark plugs (NGK)
and my wires
(Magnecors) and of course regapped them to .034. John B. and
Francis
came over and helped me with the project because I have never
changed any
spark plugs before, much less plugs on a 3/S. We also changed
the
plenum gasket and the throttle body gasket. The car seemed to run fine
right after that, but then an interesting problem arose. An annoying
high
pitched squel and sputtering noise occured. I have a Blitz DSBC
and a HKS
Super Mega Flow for mods. With the HKS I typically get the
high pitch
whistle noise when the turbos spool up, but this new noise is
different.
The sputtering noise only happens past about 7-8psi. And
the noise doesn't
occur when the engine is cold. I know the typical
thing to check is all the
hoses, vacuumn lines and IC piping. Well, I
check all of those and
everything is secure. This problem is driving
my batty. The car actually
still runs normal. I get the same
boost readings with the same Blitz
settings. And the car seems to pull
just as hard.
My gut instinct tells me its the IC pipe coming from the
rear turbo, but the
damn think is as tight as I can get it. I really
need some expert help
here. Don't give me some shot in the dark
guesses. If anyone has any solid
thoughts on the subject, or its
happened to you, let me know.
Thanks a bunch,
Curt G
95 R/T
TT
And authour of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.mn3s.org
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 19:41:52 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
"R.G." wrote:
> The
stock NGKs are still a very good choice.
> The Bosch is fine without
regapping in Supra but not our cars til today.
> >He state that
re-gapping should advance timing and would
> >account for power
increase. Is this guy blowing smoke up my @@s or is
Yes he is
blowing smoke from the biggest crackpipe in the universe.
Narrowing the spark
gap makes no significant change in the timing of the
spark!
YOW!
> Regapping plugs advance the timing ?
> makes no sense.
spark will not ignite itself earlier; ECU
> is in control :)
>
We reduce gap to reduce detonation in chamber. The cause is
>
mixture with higher boost is not well ignited. Reducing gap
> solves this
problem and keeps idle running smooth
> most of us have not experienced
any decrease in mileage
Reducing spark gap will not decrease
detonation. Detonation
(not talking about "preignition" here) is a
function
of several functions, the major players being cylinder pressure,
octane of fuel,
and timing of spark BECAUSE if it is too early the PRESSURE
RISES in
the cylinder EARLY so the pressure gets critically high while piston
is STILL
RISING in bore (still coming up from below top dead center).
As you retard
timing, the pressure curve rises but reaches peak further AFTER
top dead center
so the pressure doesn't reach the detonation threshold.
I think peak cylinder pressure
ideally comes about 20 degrees ATDC or so
(?) If the mix is not 'well ignited'
it will make less power but won't
detonate because it never reaches critical
cylinder pressure.
Reducing
spark gap simply makes it easier to ignite the mix under high boost.
Small
gap=less resistance so spark can manage to jump the gap and fire
the
cylinder, instead of NOT sparking or lighting mix with larger gap and our
weak
ignition systems. LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have
enough
energy to jump gap, it will have better chance of firing the mix/fewer
misfires (spark
but no ignition), and may burn better (more complete burn)
since starting with SLIGHTLY
larger flamefront.
Jack
Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:50:31 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: xwing [SMTP:xwing@execpc.com]
> Sent:
Monday, June 28, 1999 7:42 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
>
>
Reducing spark gap simply makes it easier to ignite the mix under high
>
boost.
> Small gap=less resistance so spark can manage to jump the gap and
fire the
> cylinder, instead of NOT sparking or lighting mix with larger
gap and our
> weak
> ignition systems. LARGER gaps can make
more HP because IF you have enough
> energy to jump gap, it will have
better chance of firing the mix/fewer
> misfires (spark
> but no
ignition), and may burn better (more complete burn) since starting
> with
SLIGHTLY
> larger flamefront.
>
Does anyone know of any company
offering a better ingnition system
for our cars? I would imagine the
weak link with our cars is probably those
coil packs,
heh?
-John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 15:07:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for
boost?
<html><head></head>
<body>
<table><tr><td>
<BR><FONT
FACE="Arial" COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3">>Reducing
spark gap
will not decrease
detonation. Detonation
<BR>>(not talking
about "preignition" here) is a
function
<BR><snip>
<BR>Very good and helpful
description !
<BR>>LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you
have enough
<BR>>energy to jump gap, it will have better chance
of firing
the mix/fewer misfires (spark
<BR>>but no
ignition), and may burn better (more complete
burn) since starting with
SLIGHTLY
<BR>>larger flamefront.
<BR>What about a rich
mixture. I'd say that it contains more
energy but is less completely
burnt at the end. Is the rich
mixture more or less resistance for the
desired energy ?
<BR>ERL told me that I'm be able to increase gap plug
with the
water injection. Hmm, this seems to make sense and there is
less
energy "wasted" and more fuel can be burnt. Interesting
:)
<BR>Roger
</font></td></tr></table><table><tr><td>><br>
__________________________<br>
<br>
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland<br>
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo<br>
</td></tr></table>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:55:44 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz EGT guage
I went to install my new Blitz EGT gauge when I
discover that the wiring
diagram was in Japanese (!?) I can tell from
the diagram that the black
wire goes to ground. I have a yellow and an
orange (the red looks like it
is not used) wire and I can't tell which is
attached to power and which is
attached to the 'lights' circuit.
Also, where is the best place to tape
into the 'lights'
circuit.
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:39:37 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Post-Eibach rattling noises + RSR
I experienced the same thing with my
RS*R springs. In my case it appears to
only happen in the rear. I
took it back to the shop that installed the
springs and they were unable to
locate the problem. Thanks Brad for a
soluition. I will
definitely give this a try.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Brad Bedell <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To:
MITCHELL, Ron @Toronto <rmitchell@shl.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, June 27, 1999 10:47 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling
noises
>I have installed 3 sets of Eibach springs which have
caused this problem.
>
>The rear springs are compressing against
each other.. Fix: wrap & glue
>rubber hose on
them.
>
>Front springs are similar, but moving around a little on
the perch. Same
>fix.
>
>Last time I spoke with Eibach they
denied having any complaints about this.
>I see that there is still a
problem.
>
>Normal, I would say yes.. Acceptable, I would say
no.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of MITCHELL, Ron
>@Toronto
>Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999
8:56 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
>
>I recently had a set of
Eibach springs installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
>local performance shop.
While the ride and handling has been improved, ever
>since, I've heard a
rattling noise when hitting small road imperfections.
>I've even heard it
when going over speed bumps at very low speeds. It seems
>to happen at all
our corners and is quite predictable. The rattling noise
is
>very
similar to the noise I once experienced on another car that had lost
>its
brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is this normal with Eibachs, or
has
>something been overlooked by the
installers?
>
>Ron
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:15:53 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Possible leaking turbo
Curt,
Is it possible that the
rubber o-ring around the rear intercooler pipe is
damaged, resulting in the
pipe not sealing properly?? Tightening the bolt
does not help seal the
pipe, it just holds the pipe in place. The o-ring
fits around the pipe
and is compressed as it is pushed into the turbo flange
creating the
seal. If this is damaged, no matter how tight the bolt is, the
pipe
will not seal completely.
Just a thought,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron [mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent:
Sunday, June 27, 1999 11:43 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Possible leaking turbo
Hey everyone,
I need some
expert advice. A few weeks ago, I changed my spark plugs (NGK)
and my
wires (Magnecors) and of course regapped them to .034. John B. and
Francis came over and helped me with the project because I have never
changed any spark plugs before, much less plugs on a 3/S. We also
changed
the plenum gasket and the throttle body gasket. The car seemed
to run fine
right after that, but then an interesting problem arose.
An annoying high
pitched squel and sputtering noise occured. I have a
Blitz DSBC and a HKS
Super Mega Flow for mods. With the HKS I
typically get the high pitch
whistle noise when the turbos spool up, but
this new noise is different.
The sputtering noise only happens past about
7-8psi. And the noise doesn't
occur when the engine is cold. I
know the typical thing to check is all the
hoses, vacuumn lines and IC
piping. Well, I check all of those and
everything is secure.
This problem is driving my batty. The car actually
still runs
normal. I get the same boost readings with the same Blitz
settings. And the car seems to pull just as hard.
My gut
instinct tells me its the IC pipe coming from the rear turbo, but
the
damn think is as tight as I can get it. I really need some
expert help
here. Don't give me some shot in the dark guesses.
If anyone has any solid
thoughts on the subject, or its happened to you,
let me know.
Thanks a bunch,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
And authour of
Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.mn3s.org
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:37:06 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Eibach springs for sale
Brand new, never opened...........$200
including shipping in the USA
Respond privately
please
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:12:29 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Correction for Altitude
Bruce Body wrote:
>
> Is
there a formula to correct 1/4 mile times for altitude? I found it
> for
temp, humidity, etc., but haven't seen anything for altitude.
Just browse
the web. I found one at
http://www.atl-fbody.com/dragracing/index.htm
Have
fun!
- --
Hang up and drive!
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:40:28 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BEC14A.41AAB600
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
rich mixture has lower resistance, hence less voltage is
required for =
tha same gap (or allows larger gap at the same voltage)
pressure =
(density) has more profound effect than composition
(richness)
----- Original Message -----=20
From:
R.G.=20
To: xwing@execpc.com ;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com=20
Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 6:07 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4
Platinum plug re-gap for
boost?
<snip>=20
Very good and
helpful description !=20
>LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have
enough=20
>energy to jump gap,
it will have better chance of firing the =
mix/fewer misfires
(spark=20
>but no ignition),
and may burn better (more complete burn) =
since starting with
SLIGHTLY=20
>larger
flamefront.=20
What about a rich
mixture. I'd say that it contains more energy =
but is less completely burnt
at the end. Is the rich mixture more or =
less resistance for the desired
energy ?=20
ERL told me that I'm
be able to increase gap plug with the water =
injection. Hmm, this seems to
make sense and there is less energy =
"wasted" and more fuel can be burnt.
Interesting :)=20
Roger
=20
>
__________________________
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo
=20
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm=20
-
------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BEC14A.41AAB600
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>rich mixture has lower
resistance, hence less =
voltage is=20
required for tha same gap (or
allows larger gap at the same voltage) =
pressure=20
(density) has more
profound effect than
composition=20
(richness)</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px;
PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">-----
Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
=
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:robby@freesurf.ch"
=
title=3Drobby@freesurf.ch>R.G.</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:xwing@execpc.com"=20
title=3Dxwing@execpc.com>xwing@execpc.com</A> ;
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"=20
=
title=3Dstealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com</A>=
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 28,
1999 =
6:07 AM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt
arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Team3S: Re: Bosch =
+4=20
Platinum plug re-gap for boost?</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<TABLE>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD><BR><FONT color=3D#000000
face=3D'rial"'=20
size=3D">>Reducing spark gap will not decrease
=
detonation. Detonation <BR>>(not
talking about "=20
<BR function
a is here) preignition?><snip> <BR>Very good
=
and=20
helpful description !
<BR>>LARGER gaps can make more HP =
because
IF=20
you have enough
<BR>>energy to jump gap, it will have better
=
chance=20
of firing the
mix/fewer misfires (spark <BR>>but no =
ignition),
and=20
may burn better (more
complete burn) since starting with
=
SLIGHTLY=20
<BR>>larger flamefront. <BR>What about a rich mixture. I'd
=
say that=20
it contains more
energy but is less completely burnt at the end. =
Is
the=20
rich mixture more or less
resistance for the desired energy ?
=
<BR>ERL=20
told me that
I'm be able to increase gap plug with the water
=
injection.=20
Hmm, this seems
to make sense and there is less energy "wasted" =
and
more=20
fuel can be burnt.
Interesting :) <BR>Roger
=
</FONT></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE>
<TBODY>
<TR>
<TD>><BR>__________________________<BR><BR>Roger
Gerl,=20
Switzerland<BR>93'3000GT
=
TwinTurbo<BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>For=20
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is=20
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BEC14A.41AAB600--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:02:36 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3KGT ignition system (was: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for
boost?)
John...
Mike Mafferty has a package that includes a VPC
and a MSD ignition booster.
He tells me that the MSD allows up to open the
plug gap back up to .037".
Very tempting, he's gotten down into the 11s with
this setup. As I recall
from our phone conversations a couple months ago, he
wants about $1K for the
package, with harnesses customized for our cars. His
e-address is
LotoBoost@aol.com.
I'm waiting for my
last chip set from G-force, then I'm off to the track for
some 1/4 mile
runs.
Looking forward...Chris
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Basol, John [mailto:jbasol@carlson.com]
Sent: Monday,
June 28, 1999 5:51 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for
boost?
<snip>
Does anyone know of any company offering a better
ingnition system
for our cars? I would imagine the weak link with our
cars is probably those
coil packs, heh?
-John
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 20:55:18 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: Off Topic: 996 Turbo prototype sighting?
So today I was having
fun on Autobahn 5 and had just finished repeatedly
passing and pulling away
from an early '90s 911 turbo (I assume it was a
turbo - fixed wing, wide
tires, dual exhaust, black puff of smoke when
shifting, etc.) all the way
from Frankfurt to Heidelburg when I came up
on something a little more
interesting. It was some kind of factory
Porsche prototype, low to the
ground with a boxter front and an Audi TT
rear, ugly mat black with tape all
over, German HI plates. I came up
behind him, the traffic cleared, I
saw his rear squat (no black puffs,
BTW) and I dropped the hammer in fourth
(going about 110 at this
point). It was FAST, and I couldn't keep
up. I saw the speedo just shy
of 170 mph (275 kph) before we had to
brake for traffic, and he was
about ten car lengths further ahead than when
we started. The driver
seemed extremely interested in what I was
driving (seems like Mike and I
have the only two turbo Stealths in Germany!),
pulling up close behind
and cruising next to my rear corner for a good long
look. The victor
gave me the thumbs up and a respectful nod before
taking the exit for
Stuttgart as I continued south.
So, this may have
been just some guy with a modified non-turbo, since
these can give me a run
for the money even in [apparently] stock form.
But I'd rather believe that
it might have been a prototype of the new
type 996 Porsche 911 Turbo!
Any ideas?
Hey Roger, how's that water injection system coming
along? Next time
I'll keep going and meet you in Basel for an install
so that I can beat
him on the way back home! :-)
BTW, with all
of this high speed fun in moderate traffic (not counting
the 30 minute stau),
I was able to go 350 miles in just under three
hours and on about 20 gallons
of gas. :-) Note that I am currently
using Roger's old stock
brake pads on the front and they performed
admireably. In fact, it
seems that the warp that had developed with the
Stillens has
disappeared! Had to hit the brakes hard several times and
experienced
no fade. Also no fade a few nights ago during a fast drive
through the
country that left both front brakes smoking for more than
five minutes when I
got home. When these wear out, I'll put the Abex
pads on and see how
they compare.
-Jim, spoiled for life by the Autobahn! :-)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:58:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
Bruce, I think I may have the same leaky
BOV problem. Now is this a
due to a DEFECTIVE BOV or an inadequate
one?
The reason I am asking is because I took my car into the dealership
for
this groaning noise (could also be described as a goose) and told them
I
thought it was the BOV. The thing is I don't have an air filter
installed
yet!
Was there any other indication it was the BOV? Should I
just switch over
to a 1G BOV?
I really dont want to heavily MOD this
car since I need it to last another
3-4 years. Plus, its fast enough as it is
for me. ;) Gotta keep out of
trouble.
mb 97 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 21:22:39 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Off Topic: 996 Turbo and some little WI update
This was probably
the new Porsche GT3 :-) All the new 9xx models do have the
Boxter front (urgh
!) now and interior close to this style. It is not
available in the States as
it is not "clean" enough. Power is rated at 360
DIN hp but only 370Nm of
torque (compared to my 507Nm from the dyno). It has
a fixed wing and wide
tires too (look at http://www.porsche.de)
Of course Digit
Power in Switzerland already added a turbo the it and pushed
power up to 470
DIN hp and tourque of around 540Nm. The thing runs 320km/h
(gulp). Therefore
it is probably the next Carrera Turbo.
Technically is the GT3 the next
step and it runned in the 24h of Le Mans
(dunno what group) Power is great as
the known boxer engine got a water
jacket now and is not only air/oil cooled.
The price is around 200k DM for
the NA and about 20k DM plus for the turbo
conversion ... a little over my
budget ;-)
>Hey Roger, how's that
water injection system coming along? Next time
>I'll keep going and
meet you in Basel for an install so that I can beat
>him on the way back
home! :-)
Please stay tuned... I'm currently emailing back and
forth with ERL as there
are several different setups possible. Also I'll get
a pressure sensor for
the water too (yeah, I know .. to much perfectionism).
I'll install one jet
in the hard pipe mounted at the front head and one in an
extra pipe I'm
gonna place in the other pipe. Another option would be to
install one larger
jet at the y-pipe but I guess the plastic is not that good
for this :( Of
course the jets can also be installed in the IC outlets (a tap
is included
in the kit) but you know how good access to the stuff is
:(((
The pump an manifold are smaller than expected but I'll probably
will mount
everything on a mounting plate. I have not yet decided
definitely.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:58:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject:
Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
Can anyone here tell me what
would cause carbon to build up in my throttle body until the throttle won't
close completely?
This recently happened, the dealer cleaned it out and
everything was fine but now my idle is bouncing like just before the
throttle stuck partially open. I have a 92 R/T TT w/ Borla cat back,Alamo
Motorsports DP, K&N FIPK, etc..
I'm thinking of taking off the plenum
and cleaning the whole thing out.
P.S. This is a "new" long block w 2K
miles on it. It ran for 1,700 break-in miles on one turbo before they diagnosed
the
problem.
Thanks in advance
RAM
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:13:58 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
>Can anyone here tell me
what would cause carbon to build up in my throttle
> body until the
throttle won't close completely?
Oil in the intake part ! My idle stepper
was totally clogged from carbon and
oil deposits after the engine problem.
The stuff has been taken apart and
totally cleaned. We have also been able to
get the stepper motor runnign
again with just cleaning (mucho $$
saved)
>This recently happened, the dealer cleaned it out and
everything was fine
but
> now my idle is bouncing like just before the
throttle stuck partially
open.
No way, the TB must be taken fully
apart. Otherwise the problem may come
back within two weeks or so
:(
> I'm thinking of taking off the plenum and cleaning the whole
thing out.
Doesn't help to cure your problem.
>P.S. This is a
"new" long block w 2K miles on it. It ran for 1,700 break-in
miles on one
turbo
> before they diagnosed the problem.
Huh ? And what happend
to the other turbo ? Have you checked the amount of
oil in your intercooler
pipes and have the IC been cleanded during
the
"rebuild".
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 15:56:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
On 06/28/99 22:13:58 you
wrote:
>Oil in the intake part ! My idle stepper was totally clogged
from carbon and
>oil deposits after the engine problem. The stuff has been
taken apart and
>totally cleaned. We have also been able to get the
stepper motor runnign
>again with just cleaning (mucho $$
saved)
Thanks for the quick response Roger:
This is my third
engine, (Long Story) I doubt that they took the time to properly clean any of
the parts that were put back on
the long block. The mechanic that put in the
second engine totally botched the job and later disappeared, They bought me a
new
long block and installed it but the front turbo was siezed because of
some "debris". They removed it and fixed the problem.
The boost goes to
12-14 PSI on the stock gauge. Although it doesn't have the clean whine like it
did before. It is still very
fast. Is it a lot of work to clean the IC's and
all associated hardware? Should I request that they do this or do it
myself?
Thanks
RAM
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page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:02:58 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Loss of power
Help!
I blew my engine under warranty and had the
dealer replace it (insufficient
oil pressure + penzoil)
after a brand
new short block, my power is about 200HP according to my butt
dyno and V-tech
accelerometer (a $2500 version of G-Force) The car tends to
hesitate when
cold and at low rpm. it feels sluggish overall.
I have K&N, NGKs @
0.034" (helped a lot for low end)
Not much power above 4000rpm even at
13psi,
I checked all the usual suspects, ignition timing, cam timing,
vacuum hose
routing, etc.
I suspect I have insufficient fuel
pressure. (50psi at boost) I will correct
that soon.
Any
ideas?
I am desperate.
Note: I attemted to race my buddys modified
Supra TT, we did not notice the
cop behind us. His car was so fast compared
to mine when he was passing me,
(145mph vs. 100mph) the cop thought I was
standing still, and ticketed only
him.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:05:12 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clogged cats
Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged catalytic
converters?
Thanks!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 23:12:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
>This is my third engine,
(Long Story) I doubt that they took the time to
properly clean any
>of
the parts that were put back on the long block.
I'd remove the rear IC
pipe and inspect it for any oil buildup at first.
Also remove the rubber IC
hose that routes over the front exhaust parts.
Inspect how much oil is in
it.
Unfortunately, if there is too much pressure in the crankcase, some
oil is
spilled into the intake (before turbo) This causes a lower octane
rating on
one side and clogging up the whole path to the chamber :( But this
is what a
is called a closed system and is a must (but not needed,
hehe).
You can remove the IC pipe/hoses without much hassle, and clean
the stuff
with gas or throttle body cleaner. But the ICs may have a lot of
oil in them
(mine still have some) and doing a right job means to remove them
and "wash"
them out with gas.
>long block and installed it but the
front turbo was siezed because of some
"debris".
> They removed it and
fixed the problem.
They removed the turbo to remove the problem, haha
???
> Is it a lot of work to clean the IC's and all associated
hardware? Should
I request
> that they do this or do it
myself?
I'd first inspect all the piping stuff. then confince them that
all further
problems can be prevented by cleaning everything around the ICs
once (and
taking the TB apart for a very good cleaning). This may take up
some time
but is finally cheaper as a guy that is comming every second week
with
another complaint :)
Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
>
>Thanks
>RAM
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 23:32:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clogged cats
Something like you already described in your first
post. Ratteling, loss of
power, smell like rotten eggs (can also be normal)
are typical symptons. The
turbos will not spool up properly, boost is not
hold on higher rpms, etc.
>Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged
catalytic converters?
Not easy to find out withotu removing the
downpipe and inspecign the stuff.
Also the front precat can easily be removed
while the rear one is more
complicated.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 16:53:17 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clogged cats
Loss of power mainly. One way to check the cats
is to hook up a vacum gage
to the motor and while idling in neutral, press
the accelerator about a
third of the way down and hold it there. The vacum
should be around 18in hg
while at idle, and when you press the accelerator,
it should drop to about
10in hg, then, while holding the accelerator, it
should immediately go back
up to 18in hg. If it drops to 10in or so and stays
there, the cat is most
likely clogged. Then you will need to determine which
cat it is..... Good luck,
Wayne
At 04:05 PM 6/28/99 , you
wrote:
>Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged catalytic
converters?
>
>Thanks!
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 28 Jun 1999 19:52:09 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
I think defective. A 3Si poster replaced
his honking BPV with a new
stock valve and his honking stopped. The test is
for how long. I have
and knew that I was going to increase my boost from
stock levels and the
stock valve won't hold more than 16 lbs. The 1st Gen DSM
will hold up to
25 lbs. (so I'm told) and it is tried and true, and for the
extra $$ it
is was worth it to me. In your case, the test is will a
replacement
stock valve last more than a couple of years? I don't know the
answer to
that.
Bruce
3Si #0243
Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> Bruce, I think I may have the same leaky BOV problem. Now is this
a
> due to a DEFECTIVE BOV or an inadequate one?
>
> The
reason I am asking is because I took my car into the dealership for
> this
groaning noise (could also be described as a goose) and told them I
>
thought it was the BOV. The thing is I don't have an air filter
installed
> yet!
>
> Was there any other indication it was
the BOV? Should I just switch over
> to a 1G BOV?
>
> I
really dont want to heavily MOD this car since I need it to last another
>
3-4 years. Plus, its fast enough as it is for me. ;) Gotta keep out of
>
trouble.
>
> mb 97 VR-4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #218
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