--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #217
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Sunday, June 27
1999 Volume 01 : Number
217
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Jun 1999 17:17:07 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SSBC installation help
On my DSBC installation, both lines going
to the stock solenoid are
plugged and the stock solenoid nipples are capped.
The line at the back
of the Y pipe, where it curves to go into the TB, gets
disconnected. The
nipple on the Y pipe side goes to the IN on the SSBC
solenoid and the
OUT of the SSBC solenoid is butt spliced into the line
removed from the
Y pipe. You could disconnect that line if you wish and run
the OUT to
that source which I think is on the H connector but I'm not 100%
since
it's been awhile since I did this.
Bruce
Kevin Schappell
wrote:
>
> Hey guys, just got in from the garage and had a few
questions. (due to the
> poor instructions provided by Blitz :-) )
Here is what I did. I removed
> the stock solenoid and in it's place
I put the new blitz solenoid in. One
> line has a white dashed line
on it that goes in front of the turbo, I am
> assuming that is not on the
pressure side. ( it did not have a clamp on it
> originally.) And
then the other line goes to the H connector and the
> actuator. ( I am
assuming this line would have pressure when the turbo
> spools up).
I hooked the line with the dashes to the "out" side of the
> solenoid and
the other to the "in" side. Does this seem right to you? I
>
looked at Roger's site but I am still confused. I thought the solenoid
bled
> pressure off of the line going to the waste gates to keep them
closed
> longer. On Roger's diagram it seems like the solenoid's
"out" port does not
> vent to the low pressure side but rather runs to the
waste gate. Wow I
> think I am just confusing myself more and
more. Can someone clear this up
> for me?
>
>
Thanks,
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.pacarsearch.com
>
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
> Free ads, chat, links and
research tools.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 01:01:58 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SSBC installation help
Thanks Bruce. Everything is
installed and working perfectly. I am not
getting any over boost so I
am going to turn up my gain until I see some
over shoot. Is this the
way to set the gain? Also drivability has been
increased at the low
setting of the boost controller like i thought.
( 6psi ) The stock
boost setting was around 9psi and now at low setting the
waste gate is being
controlled only by the springs.
Thanks again,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's
newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
To: Kevin Schappell
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, June 26, 1999 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SSBC installation
help
>On my DSBC installation, both lines going to the stock
solenoid are
>plugged and the stock solenoid nipples are capped. The line
at the back
>of the Y pipe, where it curves to go into the TB, gets
disconnected. The
>nipple on the Y pipe side goes to the IN on the SSBC
solenoid and the
>OUT of the SSBC solenoid is butt spliced into the line
removed from the
>Y pipe. You could disconnect that line if you wish and
run the OUT to
>that source which I think is on the H connector but I'm
not 100% since
>it's been awhile since I did
this.
>
>Bruce
>
>Kevin Schappell
wrote:
>>
>> Hey guys, just got in from the garage and had a
few questions. (due to
the
>> poor instructions provided by Blitz
:-) ) Here is what I did. I removed
>> the stock solenoid
and in it's place I put the new blitz solenoid in.
One
>> line has a
white dashed line on it that goes in front of the turbo, I am
>>
assuming that is not on the pressure side. ( it did not have a clamp
on
it
>> originally.) And then the other line goes to the H
connector and the
>> actuator. ( I am assuming this line would have
pressure when the turbo
>> spools up). I hooked the line with the
dashes to the "out" side of the
>> solenoid and the other to the "in"
side. Does this seem right to you? I
>> looked at Roger's
site but I am still confused. I thought the solenoid
bled
>>
pressure off of the line going to the waste gates to keep them
closed
>> longer. On Roger's diagram it seems like the solenoid's
"out" port does
not
>> vent to the low pressure side but rather runs
to the waste gate. Wow I
>> think I am just confusing myself more
and more. Can someone clear this
up
>> for
me?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin Schappell
>> Auto
Answers
>> http://www.pacarsearch.com
>>
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
>> Free ads, chat, links
and research tools.
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Jun 1999 23:21:42 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Update: Killed the honking goose
A couple of weeks ago I posted that I
installed a 1st Gen DSM BPV in an
attempt to solve the hooting sound from the
stock BPV that many of us
experience when we install a FIPK.
I now
have about 700 miles on the car since the install and life is good
:-) No
more hooting. I also noted an initial seat of the pants feeling
of quicker
turbo spoolup and stronger pulling like it's holding the
boost better. This
feeling did not go away so I decided to take it to
the strip last
night.
The closest track to my house is at LACR in Palmdale, CA. This
track is
at approx. 2800 ft. elevation. I have made about 25 runs at this
track
in the past. My best ET at this track was 13.55 but usually
ran
13.65-13.8. My best 60' at this track was 2.05 but I usually
ran
2.15-2.25.
I made 7 passes. My best pass was 13.43. My other runs
were in the
13.5-13.6 area with one 13.47 until my clutch started slipping. I
got 4
1.90 sec 60' times with my worst being 2.17. I was holding 12 lbs.
boost
through about ~6500 rpms (my shift point), whereas before I usually
held
10-11 lbs. at this level.
This is all *way* better than I have
ever run before at this track. The
only thing that did not seem to change
much was my mph through the
traps, ~101. If anything, it's 1/2 mile lower. I
haven't done anything
else to my car and I don't think my driving is any
better than it was
before. I also had to lower the ratio on my DSBC by 2 to
keep the same
boost levels. I know that BOV/BPVs do not make any horsepower,
but could
these things be leaking that much pressure to make this much
difference?
Remember, I could blow easily through my stock BPV with just my
mouth
pressure. These results, coupled with my seat of the pants feeling
on
the street, lead me to believe so.
Bruce
3Si #0243
95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 26 Jun 1999 23:23:52 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Correction for Altitude
Is there a formula to correct 1/4 mile times for
altitude? I found it
for temp, humidity, etc., but haven't seen anything for
altitude.
Thanks,
Bruce
3Si #0243
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:22:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Update: Killed the honking goose
Bruce, thanks for the update
:)
>My best pass was 13.43. My other runs were in the
>13.5-13.6
area with one 13.47 until my clutch started slipping. I got 4
>1.90 sec
60' times with my worst being 2.17. I was holding 12 lbs. boost
>through
about ~6500 rpms (my shift point), whereas before I usually held
>10-11
lbs. at this level.
What where the settings at the DSBC ? Try to reduce
Gain by 1 and increase
Ratio until max boost is reached.
> I know
that BOV/BPVs do not make any horsepower, but could
>these things be
leaking that much pressure to make this much difference?
I'm positive
that you are experiencing less lag (if any) and this results in
better
spool-up and et's but not in better speed. This is the same what I
found
after the BOV has been installed.
regards,
Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:47:13 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations, WI
> OK, here is my next
question then :), yep, I do have more. :)
Hope I can give more
answers ;-)
> It would seem likely then that if the injectors simply
are not
>capable of supplying enough fuel to pass beyond the 400hp mark,
(roughly),
>and seeing as how, at 18psi I am still showing a rich
condition, and that
we
>believe that at 15psi the motor is making about
400hp, would it not seem
>logical that I should be over the 400hp
mark? Which leads me to believe
>that my A/F gauge is showing me a
pretty big lie. Thoughts?
Of course, my table is very theoretical
and we are lucky to have a little
better quality as is blue-printed
:)
Here some information I got from ERL regarding O2 :
- ----
The
air/fuel ratio reading will not be affected provided the water is free
and
other chemical like alcohol etc. It is best map the water injection
system in
first before adding alcohol. The effect on alcohol on air/fuel
ratio reading
is not clear, most gasoline in the US used alcohol to boost
the octane, they
are normally called oxygenated fuel, it didn't seemed to
affect the car that
runs on them, not heard of any complaints.
The O2 sensor can not be use
reliably to detect air/fuel ratio, it has a
very narrow window, normally
between 14-15.5 ratio, outside that window, the
reading is non-linear and
should not be used for accurate A/F ratio reading.
You have to realise that
O2 sensor only detects presence of O2, not CO
level.
CO level is a
more accurate indication or A/F ratio. I think you should dyno
the car with
CO probe to solve your fuel supply mystery.
- ----
On our dyno session we
measured the ratio with the help of the probe in the
muffler and we found
around 12.8-11:1 rich conditions where the ECU started
to retard the
timing.
> (already wet! Hurry up Roger!!! I want data on the
ERL!!!) :)
Haha, I'm known to take the stuff easy but surely
:) As I will program a 3D
map for rpm/boost/water volume, having two jets to
install and the water
pressure regulator there is a little bit more to plan
than usual :) I'll
keep you all
updated.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 12:54:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SSBC installation help
The Blitz boost controller solenoids do
vent the pressure to the atmosphere
internally (in the box) and therefore do
not have to lead somewhere. The stock
solenoid vents it back to the
intake.
To hook up the new solenoid valve just remove the line that goes
to the stock
solenoid (comming from the H-connector) and cap the newly open
port. The new
open line should also be plugged.
As already described
by Bruce, the IN port will be directly conected to the
ellbow of the y-pipe
and the OUT port is connected to the line that was
connected originally to
the ellbow. But it's good to keep the hoses as short as
possible.
>
I thought the solenoid bled pressure off of the line going to the waste
gates
> to keep them closed longer.
No, the solenoids prevent
pressure going to the actuators (closed). Also at this
time, the line between
actuators and solenoid is bled to the atmosphere.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 11:34:46 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
Has anyone
used these? They have 4 electrodes but it does not seem that
they can
be re-gapped since they come from the sides and not over the tip.
Local
performance shop was trying to sell me them, said everyone who uses
them
loves them. (don't they all say that !) I commented that I could
not
re-gap them and they guy said I was crazy for wanting to reduce the gap
with
increased boost. He said that it should not make a difference and
that the
spark should not be blown out. He did state that re-gapping
should advance
the timing and that would account for the power
increase. Is this guy
blowing smoke up my @@s or is he on to
something? Are our engines prone to
spark blow out due to the way the
head is designed or are the dyno increases
seen due to advanced
timing?
Alot to ponder, just thought I would throw it out
there,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's
newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research
tools.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 17:47:58 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: elecric blower
> > 182in^3 * 6000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars
of boost)) / 1728 = 284 cfm
> > 182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0
bars of boost)) / 1728 = 332 cfm
>
> Hey Roger,
>
>
What is the 0.9 value? Is that an assumed efficiency?
The formula
is :
Airflow Rate = (cid * rpm * 0.5 * E) / 1728
cid = engine
displacement
0.5 = 4-stroke engine => fill at each half revolution
E =
Volumetric efficiency (~90% on our cars)
1728 = converts cubic inches to
cubic feet
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 17:59:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
The Supra
friends used the plugs successfully but only a special version
that is damn
expensive (I was told). There is no one that would fit our cars
and earlier
report do not say good things about them.
The stock NGKs are still a very
good choice.
The Bosch is fine without regapping in the Supra but not on
our cars till
today.
>He did state that re-gapping should advance
the timing and that would
>account for the power increase. Is this
guy blowing smoke up my @@s or is
>he on to something?
Regapping
the plugs should advance the timing ? This is new to me and just
makes no
sense. The spark will not ignite itselfs earlier as still the ECU
is in
control :)
We reduce the gap to reduce the detonation in the chamber. The
cause is the
mixture with the higher boost that is not well ignited. Reducing
the gap
solves this problem and still keeps the idle running smooth and also
the
most of us have not experienced any decrease in mileage.
>spark
blow out due to the way the head is designed or are the
dyno
increases
>seen due to advanced timing?
No the timing is
not advanced, but the ECU does not retard the timing due to
any
detonation.
Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 09:27:57 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
elecric blower
> >
> > What is the 0.9 value? Is
that an assumed efficiency?
>
> The formula is :
>
>
Airflow Rate = (cid * rpm * 0.5 * E) / 1728
>
> cid = engine
displacement
> 0.5 = 4-stroke engine => fill at each half
revolution
> E = Volumetric efficiency (~90% on our cars)
> 1728 =
converts cubic inches to cubic
feet
===============================================================
Things
that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE that sounds low. I thought you could get 80%
with a good
NA engine. At 15 plus pounds boost I would think you could do
better. The operative word here is,
THINK, I have an engineering background
but limited automotive experience. As a matter of fact can
you have a VE in
excess of one. If the cylinder is pressurized you effectively force more air
in
than the actual displacement of the engine. Tutorial please
:-)
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:13:14 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: elecric blower
> Things that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE
that sounds low. I thought you
could get 80% with
> a good NA engine.
At 15 plus pounds boost I would think you could do
better.
You are
absolutely right ! I also wrote in my post :
Airflow rate = pressure
ratio * basic engine cfm
pressure ratio = 1 + pressure in bars (i.e. 2.03
for 15psi)
Therefore 1psi of boost equals 0.07bars
=> airflow rate
= 1.07 * 332cfm = 355.3cfm
As the turbos and intercoolers are a
restriction when the engine is
operating in the non-boost area, the VE is
degraded compared to the same NA
engine. This is why the base for the TT cars
can be calculated with 85% and
the NAs with 90%.
>The operative
word here is, THINK, I have an engineering background but
limited
automotive
> experience. As a matter of fact can you have a VE in excess
of one. If the
cylinder is pressurized you
> effectively force more air
in than the actual displacement of the engine.
Tutorial please
:-)
Also my background is EE and some machanical stuff (in my earlier
years,
haha). But I read a lot and had the chance to compare some
different
findings on dyno tests :) I love when the practical testings are so
close to
the calculated stuff ;-)
Regards,
Roger
3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:28:12 -0400
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
HKS BOV
Group;
I have
just purchased an HKS seuqential BOV for my car. I want to
stick it in
myself. Anyone installed one before? Any tips
?
Regards,
Fred
#121
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:15:43 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
[Kevin
Schappell] Basically the theory on this is that the shorter the gap
the sooner the plug will fire. When the ECU tells the plug to fire there
is some delay there as the coils build up enough energy to jump the gap.
The shorter the gap, the shorter the time to jump and fire the plug.
HOWEVER... this also reduces the energy in the spark since the coil does not
have enough time to build up.
I just stopped into this shop and do not know
their reputation or history but he does deal with turbo cars. I am not arguing
anyone's results, as I believe that regapping the plug does increase power (or
reduces detonation) I walked out thinking the guy was nuts too but then got to
thinking.... reducing the gap would advance the timing. But if it did
advance timing then detonation would be seen sooner, so it does not match with
your results seen on the dyno. Anyway I am not forming any opinions, just
want to kick up some discussions.
Regapping the
plugs should advance the timing ? This is new to me and just
makes no sense.
The spark will not ignite itselfs earlier as still the ECU
is in control
:)
We reduce the gap to reduce the detonation in the chamber. The cause
is the
mixture with the higher boost that is not well ignited. Reducing the
gap
solves this problem and still keeps the idle running smooth and also
the
most of us have not experienced any decrease in mileage.
>spark
blow out due to the way the head is designed or are the
dyno
increases
>seen due to advanced timing?
No the timing is
not advanced, but the ECU does not retard the timing due to
any
detonation.
Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 10:59:25 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
eRAM electric blower info (from the company)...
I've been having a
dialogue with the owners at eRacing, in an attempt
to get more info about
their 'eRAM' and 'Super eRAM' electric blower
units; I intend to test at
least one (maybe both) of their eRAM units
on my Stealth very soon (they're
in San Jose, just a short drive from
San Francisco). I'll do a
'supervised' install at their facilities
and videotape it, (and dyno before
and after to verify HP increase).
Here's a bit of what they have to say, and
an answer to one of my
questions...:
"Thanks for the interest in the
eRAM electric supercharger. Your
size engine is ideal for the
eRAM's 1psi pressure developed and air
flow rating. We just
returned yesterday from another dyno run on a
3.2 liter 911
carrera. Again, we saw close to 10 hp and a 5-7 ft lbs
of torque
developed from beginning to end on the HP Torque curve."
"The reason the eRAM
works is quite simple. It pressurizes the air
box or intake tube with a
slight pressure and that pressure is a rise
in air density , which is matched
quite easily by fuel by almost all
modern day computers/engine management
systems. (ie MAF, AFM, MAP,
and others as well as
carburetors)."
Q: Team3S: "We have members with engines that
vary from stock
horsepowers to highly-modded -- are there any known Super
E-Ram issues
with engines that have other modifications already in
place?"
A: eRAM: "We are mounting one to a 6 liter mercedes
GT car right now
with a rear wheel HP of around 270. one in each intake
tube should
provide the same gains as one unit would on a high performance 3
liter
engine for which we have seen 5% gains on average. However, the
limit
seems to be in the 4 liter per unit range per eRAM.
"...A 650 hp
engine that turns 550hp to the gound is probably a 2 bar
turbo 3 liter.,
which is the same air flow as a 9 liter engine. Our
air flow is
limited at 750 cfm in free air, so a 3 liter is 320 cfm, 5
liter is 530 cfm
and an 8 liter viper would be in the 850cfm at
6000rpm.
"...Our super eRAM
was just tested and gave a 50% more HP over a
single eRAM in series. we
had hoped for double the gains, but reality
has hit and it was only 50%
more. One eRAM is a very good HP to
cost value."
-
-:-
So it appears that the 'Super eRAM' is twice the price, but
only
realizes 50% more HP increase over the 'eRAM'. So far, they've
only
offered us a 5% Team3S discount (10% on a 10+ unit Group
Purchase).
I'll keep you posted after I install the eRAM... I have to
put in my
RPS clutch first (yes Roger-- it arrived yesterday!), so it will
be
sometime next month. More to come...
Forrest
-
-----Original Message-----From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
|> Things
that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE that sounds low. I
thought you
|could
get 80% with
|> a good NA engine. At 15 plus pounds boost I would think
you could
do
|better.
|
|You are absolutely right ! I also wrote in
my post :
|
|Airflow rate = pressure ratio * basic engine
cfm
|
|pressure ratio = 1 + pressure in bars (i.e. 2.03 for
15psi)
|
|Therefore 1psi of boost equals 0.07bars
|=> airflow rate =
1.07 * 332cfm = 355.3cfm
|
|As the turbos and intercoolers are a
restriction when the engine is
|operating in the non-boost area, the VE is
degraded compared to the
same NA
|engine. This is why the base for the TT
cars can be calculated with
85% and
|the NAs with 90%.
-
-------------snipped--------------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 16:05:41 -0400
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S:
re:HKS BOV
The BOV I bought is one of the new Chrome jobs. I have a '95
Stealth RT TT.
I started out by putting a set of Neihoff's and a FIPK on it
and wanted to
get the BOV before continuing upgrading. I'm looking down the
road at a
Borla and a Profec A.
Regards,
Fred
#121
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 23:33:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: eRAM electric blower info (from the company)...
How much do you
have to pay for the thing ?
And how much air can the eRam or Super eRam
flow at 1 or even 2 psi of boost
?
>3.2 liter 911
carrera. Again, we saw close to 10 hp and a 5-7 ft lbs
>of
torque developed from beginning to end on the HP Torque curve."
Hehe, as
calculated :))
>"...Our super eRAM was just tested and gave a 50% more
HP over a
>single eRAM in series. we had hoped for double the gains,
but reality
>has hit and it was only 50% more. One eRAM
is a very good HP to
>cost value."
Oh yeah ?? The eRam is $299,
installation maybe another $100 and gain will
be 10hp ?
Sorry, but $40 per
hp is far away from any good hp to cost value. But as
someone said : every
pony count :)
>So it appears that the 'Super eRAM' is twice the price,
but only
>realizes 50% more HP increase over the 'eRAM'.
The Super
eRAM are two propellers instead of only one. Interestingly,
they've just put
the thing together and looked on the dyno how much power
increase they are
getting and where surprised only to get 50% more. Hey,
what about calculating
the internal flow, efficiency, heating up the air,
behaviour at different
ambient, etc. If the Super eRAM would be designed
correctly, the two blades
would work incorperated like a Roots blower
providing a much better result.
Just look at the large gap between the
propellers and the desing of the
blades. I'm sure, if they would be properly
designed a higher gain could be
found.
IMHO, the Turbo-Zet seems to be better designed !
>RPS
clutch first (yes Roger-- it arrived yesterday!)
Great !! Mine will
arrive maybe at x-mas or so :(
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 27 Jun 1999 20:56:26 -0400
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
This is a multi-part message in
MIME format.
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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My headlight covers on my 93 Stealth TT are stuck in the
up position.
The headlights come on as they should, but the pop-ups will
not close =
when I turn off the headlights.
My first guess is a loose
or cracked vacuum hose.
Any other ideas?
Robyn
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Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My
headlight covers on my 93 Stealth =
TT are=20
stuck in the up
position.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The headlights come on as they =
should, but
the=20
pop-ups will not close when I turn off the
headlights.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>My first guess is a loose or cracked vacuum
=
hose.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Any other ideas?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>Robyn</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BEC0DF.85748AC0--
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