--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #213
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Wednesday, June 23 1999 Volume
01 : Number
213
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 11:19:48 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel injectors ???
Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines
function best with a tuned
exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of
backpressure. A
"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of
torque at the low
end, 'off the line'... It will give it a bit more top
end, however.
The only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to
increase power
on an NT:
- ---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to
minimize turbulence and
friction to the intake air.
- ---Install a
non-restrictive air filter (K&N filtercharger, or
similar).
-
---Install a ram-air setup which utilizes the speed of the car to
'force'
outside air into the throttle body.
- ---Optimize the path from the air
filter to the throttle body with a
smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends
(reposition the battery and
MAS to do so).
- ---If using the stock air
hose, remove the 'resonator' to reduce
turbulence in the intake
path.
Naturally, making sure plugs are clean and gapped properly, wires
are
in good condition, fluids are correct and at the right level, fuel
is
highest octane, etc., keep you from losing
power...
Forrest
|> This is my first post so bear with me if
this is a dumb ass
question. I have
|> a 92 R/T NON TURBO..could
I change to bigger injectors and fuel
pump for more
|>
power??
|>
|> Dave.
- -----Original Message-----From: Jim
Berry <fastmax@home.com>
|=====================================================================
====
|The
thing you need to do first is to get it to breathe better and
that's where
less restrictive air
|filters,
|exhausts and throttle bodies come in.
Since it's a fuel injected
computer controlled engine it will
-
---------snip-------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:36:29 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject:
Team3S: New Hood Design!!! Lets do it!
Ok Guys here is the newest
idea. Brian at GT Alley wants to know how many
people would be
interested and base don that he will determine the price.
The hood would
incorporate a front air duct, much like the new Vipers have
with that like
diamond cut out in the front hood and also the ability for a
front strut
brace. He can make it out of Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass. Email
me
joshua@princelaw.com <mailto:joshua@princelaw.com> if
you would be
interested, the more people, the cheaper. This will get a
lot of cooler air
into the engine compartment and especially the
intake. Here is his email to
me. I had suggested a look of a Kaze
hood just for the fact that
incorporates the strut brace.
The
Kaze hood is ugly, and will be hard to duplicate. I can do an original
design
if I can get a few orders. I can make something to fit a strut bar,
and
incorporate, an NACA duct like the Viper. Let me know if you can round
up
some people.
Lets try to get this done, this time. Brian promised me he
would give us
the BEST price and beat any other prices.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:48:20 -0400
From: "Ian Marks" <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Alignment help
MY '94 RT/TT pulls to the right
constantly at highway speeds (you know
85-90mph). The tires are pretty fresh
(27k), inflated properly and don't
show any signs of scalloping or uneven
wear. I've taken it to dealers and
found no improvement. I'm taking it to a
"high performance" shop next week.
Is there something in particular to check
specifically for these AWD
four-wheel active steering cars? I have the
service manual also.
Thanks for the advice.
- --
Ian
Marks
stock '94 Stealth RT twin turbo
Rochester NY
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 11:53:01 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Alignment help
try switching tires left to right. most likely
this will solve your problem.
if that does not help, follow intructiuons
for the rear wheel alignments
precisely.
most shops have good
equipment but do not know how to use it.
demand printed pre/post figures.
most critical are
camber R/L, F/R
caster R/L
rear toe
R/L
compare with the book.
good luck
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:03:09 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Alignment help
> try switching tires left to right. most likely this
will solve
> your problem.
Only if your tires have non-directional
tread should you swap right to left.
If you have directional tread, an arrow
on the sidewall will show the
required rotation direction.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:56:41 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ??
If $$$$$$ is not a problem...
How
about engine work? I would start with cylinder head porting, and
new
higher profile cam shafts (custom made of course because non
available at the
moment), then either a longer stroke crankshaft and/or
overbore cylinders
with new forged rods and forged pistons to also allow
the increase in
compression ratio. (11.5:1 probably max for pumped gas,
or even higher with
race gas)
Dreams...
- -------- Original Message
--------
Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines function best with a
tuned
exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of backpressure.
A
"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of torque at the low
end,
'off the line'... It will give it a bit more top end, however.
The
only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to increase power
on an
NT:
- ---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to minimize turbulence
and
friction to the intake air.
- ---Install a non-restrictive air filter
(K&N filtercharger, or
similar).
- ---Install a ram-air setup which
utilizes the speed of the car to
'force' outside air into the throttle
body.
- ---Optimize the path from the air filter to the throttle body with
a
smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends (reposition the battery
and
MAS to do so).
- ---If using the stock air hose, remove the
'resonator' to reduce
turbulence in the intake path.
Naturally, making
sure plugs are clean and gapped properly, wires are
in good condition, fluids
are correct and at the right level, fuel is
highest octane, etc., keep you
from losing power...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 13:21:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel injectors ??
: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ??
> If
$$$$$$ is not a problem...
>
> How about engine work? I would
start with cylinder head porting, and
> new higher profile cam shafts
(custom made of course because non
> available at the moment), then either
a longer stroke crankshaft and/or
> overbore cylinders with new forged
rods and forged pistons to also allow
> the increase in compression ratio.
(11.5:1 probably max for pumped gas,
> or even higher with race
gas)
>
>
Dreams...
========================================================================
You
might as well start with a turbo car ---- it's a lot easier to get HP and would
cost less!!!
Jim Berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 19:39:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Perhaps a useful URL
Just got this one. Perhaps it is of
use to some of you.
I have no experience with this yet.
http://www.msrecycling.com/
Regards,
Dennis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 20:21:52 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Perhaps a useful URL
I called the company just out of
curiosity. When in-stock they have long
block ,6 month warranty, turbo
3.0 engines for $2500. They also have
factory fresh short blocks for
$2200. I was thinking about picking up a
rebuildable block to rebuild
and upgrade little by little as finances allow.
Just thought I would
share the info,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's
newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis G. Bretton <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: stealth@starnet.net <stealth@starnet.net>; TEAM 3S
List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
stealth@dragnet.com <stealth@dragnet.com>
Date: Tuesday,
June 22, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: Perhaps a useful
URL
>
>Just got this one. Perhaps it is of use to some
of you.
>
>I have no experience with this yet.
>
>http://www.msrecycling.com/
>
>Regards,
>
Dennis
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 16:34:24 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: NT
Engine mods... (was: Fuel injectors ??)
I was only following Roger Gerl's
lead about LOW cost mods, but...
Could we really go that high with
compression on the NT's? 11.5:1?
Could that mean a 20% horsepower
gain...? 30%...? And on a chassis
that's 300 to 500 lbs lighter
than a turbo? Hmmmmmmmmm...
The mods you suggest..., would
anyone have an idea of approximate
price and horsepower benefits?
Dreams, indeed!!! Reminds me of the
old Beach Boys song about a "Deuce
Coupe":
She's ported and relieved
and she's stroked and
bored...
She'll do a hundred and forty
On the top-end
board..."
Well, not quite... I only did 137 with mine, way back
when... :-)
I'd love some feedback from you experts... Just
how far could you go
with a cylinder overbore, and forged rods and pistons,
etc?
TIA,
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From:
josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
|If
$$$$$$ is not a problem...
|How about engine work? I would start with
cylinder head porting, and
|new higher profile cam shafts (custom made of
course because non
|available at the moment), then either a longer stroke
crankshaft
and/or
|overbore cylinders with new forged rods and forged
pistons to also
allow
|the increase in compression ratio. (11.5:1 probably
max for pumped
gas,
|or even higher with race
gas)
|
|Dreams...
|
|-------- Original Message
--------
|Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines function best with a
tuned
|exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of backpressure.
A
|"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of torque at the
low
|end, 'off the line'... It will give it a bit more top end,
however.
|
|The only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to increase
power
|on an NT:
|---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to minimize
turbulence and
|friction to the intake air.
|---Install a non-restrictive
air filter (K&N filtercharger, or
|similar).
|---Install a ram-air
setup which utilizes the speed of the car to
|'force' outside air into the
throttle body.
|---Optimize the path from the air filter to the throttle body
with a
|smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends (reposition the battery
and
|MAS to do so).
|---If using the stock air hose, remove the
'resonator' to reduce
|turbulence in the intake path.
-
----------snip----------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:23:27 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
My carbon clutch is slipping. After
1500 miles of break in on the engine, I
decided it was time to beat on the
car a little.
The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the
throttle.
Needless to say I am very disappointed. The stock clutch held
more power.
I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock
clutch.
Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the
clutches...This is my
second RPS and they still can't get it right. I hope
everyone who purchased
theirs on the group purchase will have better luck
than I have.
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 00:35:19 EDT
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: ram
air
I wanted to drop my 2cents on the ram air. Maybe its just because i
know its
there maybe its not BUT i think it made a difference. $9.99 for
flexible
insulated 6" aluminum heating duct from home depot = nice little
difference 8)
X
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:31:33 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Mustang question
Ok, this is off topic, but youse guys are the
only ones I can ask. I'm not
on any other forums.
Please respond to
me off line, so we don't clog up the list with Mustang
stuff that nobody
wants to read. Reply to merritt@cedar-rapids.net. All
you
3S guys MUST respond off list, or I'll get a stern lecture.
Here's the
deal. Number one son bought a 67 Mustang coupe with a good
strong 302 (a 289
with 302 heads and rods), recently rebuilt automatic with
a shifter kit,
Hurst shifter, 9-bolt rear end, Corvette brakes and so on.
Problem is, it's a
rusted hulk. The floorboards and frame rails are
completely rusted through,
and one end of the rear spring is poking through
the trunk floor. Body's OK,
but the rest of it is shot. It is far beyond
our ability to fix, and the cost
of paying someone to replace all the frame
parts and body panels would be
outrageous. BTW, I was not consulted about
the purchase beforehand.
So
what do we do with it? Opinions from anyone who knows Mustangs are
welcome.
As far as I can see, there are three options:
1. Sell it
for whatever he can get and buy another car. Problem: the car is
unsafe to
drive. Selling it to another sucker might be criminal. Disclosing
the
problems cuts the value considerably. We might get $1,000 for it on a
good
day.
2. Buy another Mustang with a good body, put the motor and trans in
it, and
call the junkyard to haul away the hulk. We've found a 67
6-cylinder
Mustang for $1200 that might work. Is this going to be more
trouble than
it's worth? What year Mustangs will accept a 67 engine and
trans? Can a V8
go where a 6 was? Do we need to replace anything else,
like springs?
3. Sell the engine and trans, then junk the car. Advertise
it whilst in the
car, so we can run it for the prospective buyer. What's a
302 engine and
automatic worth on the market?
I'm sure there's a
Mustang list like ours out there somewhere. Anybody got
an address?
If
you know Mustangs, please come back.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4 and one tired
old 67 Mustang
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 00:54:37 EDT
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: AUTOCROSS
EVENT!!!!!!!!!!
I just got a call from a club down in south Florida that
will be holding an
autocross event at Hialeah race track, I believe
july 3rd. I will firm up
the date later either that sat or sunday. I will be
entering and I think it
would be great to get some 3si people down there for
a showing. This is about
a week away. I think a south fl gathering there
would be a good event and a
great way to flex some 3si diamond star muscle.
So lets go people I have one
helmet and there should be loners there. More
info to come hopeful tomorrow.
Lets try to get a group and maybe we
can organize a caravan there. It would
be one hell of an entrance
8).
Mr X
Wei-Lik Liem
3si #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:34:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
rad, sorry to hear your bad experience on the
clutch side :((
>The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into
the throttle.
What about braking in ? How many miles have you done
without going hard at it ?
>Needless to say I am very
disappointed. The stock clutch held more power.
>I will be speaking
to RPS after I install a new stock clutch.
Brad, did you turned the
flywheel before you installed the RPS ?
>Seems Mitsubishi actually did
something right with the clutches.
Oh yeah ? I had 3 clutches within 36k
km, two master cylinders, new pedal, brocken lever in clutch assembly,
etc.
And current stock clutch still slips when I want to launch at 5500
!!
>..This is my second RPS and they still can't get it right. I hope
everyone who purchased
>theirs on the group purchase will have better luck
than I have.
I have heard from two people that installed it and both are
happy so far. Of course, they are still braking it in.
All RPS GP
participants : I was told the flywheel MUST be turned to prepare the surface for
the carbon. Doing
this and doing a good brake-in the clutch should be great
!
Good luck with the stock
clutch,
Roger
>
>Brad
>Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
__________________________
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 12:40:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NT Engine mods... (looong and maybe also for TTs)
Ok, going the
more expensive way but with the benefit of less weight to carry the following
mods are possible :
- - Overbore to max 3.1 liter (any more is not
recommended !)
- - Forged pistons with good rings (sure, hehe)
- - Porting
the heads, the output path is more critical than the input.
- - Porting the
intake but more to increase the flow and NOT polishing it !!
- - good angle
job to the valveseats/valves
- - Replacing the cams, giving the valves more
duration to let the stuff in/out
(may result in a crappy idle)
- -
Creating good headers that produce the correct backpressure at the flame
front
- - Adjustable exhaust for either higher torque or higher top end
power
>Could we really go that high with compression on the
NT's? 11.5:1?
Hmm, the gaskets and design of head and block are
pretty good on our cars but 11:1 should be safer :) Also it is
debatable if
the crankshaft and rods can handle more than 11:1, otherwise a good upgrade is
necessary too.
>Could that mean a 20% horsepower gain...?
30%...?
With the mentioned mods 20% is a good value. Just look at the 3
liter engine form the NSX. It has about 280hp DIN here
in Europe but is more
sophisticated and complex than our NA's and this is why the thing has even more
potential !
Fo me this sounds like a lot $$ for work and not for parts
and it's not sure how much a "good" porting job will really do.
What will be
the hp/$ ratio .... pretty degraded I think :((
What about a heart
transplantation from a TT to an NA ?? What is needed : Engine, ECU, (fuel parts
?)
Go back to the cheap side, I think that the NA's best bang for the
buck is a Nitrous system with a 80- 150hp shot ($400-
$650) Of course this is
of use for some special occasions and of course keeping the wheels from slipping
is almost
inpossible when it kicks in ;-)
>I'd love some feedback
from you experts... Just how far could you go
>with a cylinder
overbore, and forged rods and pistons, etc?
Hmm, the more you change the
stuff the more other parts must be changed as well. This makes me thinking of
parting
out a TT with its stuff. Here is the calculation :
Desired
Power : 300hp
Current power : 220hp (DOHC)
Delta
:
80hp = 36.4% increase
With a supercharger or turbo we therefore need
boost of 0.364bars = 5.3psi to get this power. You see that there is a
relatively low boost needed to achieve the desired power and please note,
torque will increase about 50% when boost is
there ! So why do need the TT
more boost to achieve the same power ? Compression ratio is the keyword here.
But I
think 5 psi of boost is no problem for the NAs. I'd even go further
and say that there is no need to touch anything within
the engine when doing
such a mod.
Now, what do we need to get this boost ? Another calculation
first :
Running 0.36 bars of boost :
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1.36
(0.36 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 451cfm
This means that our engine sucks
451 ft^3 per minute at 7000rpm with 5.3psi of boost. The question arises if one
stock
turbo is enough for this purpose. I'd say that it will run out of
steam but for a start why not grabbing one from a junkyard
or any used DSM
bigger than the 9B (with the wastegate actuator installed). Here is a conversion
plan and I think it is
possible :
- - get one turbo (front one if
stock) with wastegate and O2 sensor housing
- - let someone make an exhaust
piping from the rear exhaust manifold to the area below the front pass side
headlight.
- - do the same for the front (it is much shorter)
- - both
pipings should end in an y-pipe that has a flange for the turbo
- - Place the
turbo that it sits parallel to the front with the intake facing the fender
-
- The filter (K&N) and MAS will be placed where the TT has its stock pass
side intercooler.
It should be mounted somewhat higher to prevent any
problems with water.
Of course the MAS wiring must be extended but
this is null problemo.
- - Design the position that it is somewhat away from
the turbo but can be attached to it without too much problems.
Use
some rubber tubing to connect the MAS outlet to the turbo.
- - Let someone
make an exhaust piping from the O2 sensor housing to the stock main
cat.
This is now an easy job as there is nothing in its way down to
the cat :)
- - The turbo outlet is small compared with the TB. Let someone
create an ellbow or just take the VR4 stock y-pipe.
You can also use
one of the rubber intercooler hoses from the TT for this purpose.
Plug
up the second IC inlet of the y-pipe
A nice aluminum piping can be
done when the system fully works.
- - Use a DSM BPV and vent to the ambient
(at first)
- - Tap into the intake plenum to get boost reading and BOV
activation
- - The hardest part at the end : You have to provide an oil and
water line to/from the turbo.
This is not easy and I don't know if the
block is already prepared for this.
Also I don't know how large the
injectors are and if the pump is the same size as in the TT.
In my point
of view, the major problems are the turbo and its cooling lines. Therefore an
aftermarket turbo with self lubing
would be fine as the boost will not
exceed 6 psi anyways but of course costs somewhat more :( Another point of view
is
the fuel system as the injectors may be too small for the desired air
flow and another fuel control is needed.
Here a conclusion on my thoughts
:
- - turbo upgrade is possible
- - routing the exhaust piping from the
rear may cause more heat in he engine bay
- - backpressure must be measured
on each bank to design the proper piping to the turbo
- - everything is
bolt-on and can be undone if necessary
- - front precats are gone
- -
engine internals stay untouched !
- - fuel system must be checked to be
appropriate
- - FPR from TT may be used
- - maybe bigger injectors (stock
TT) and fuel control are needed
- - ECU is untouched
Last but not
least, what will this upgrade cost without labour ?
- - Turbo (used one,
without cooling lines, selflubing) $550
- - manifold tubing rear $400
- -
manifold tubing front $100
- - exhaust downpipe (O2 housing - main cat)
$200
- - stock injectors $240
- - some stock TT parts $100
- - fuel
control $250 and up
Total cost : $1850 ... Is this too much for a Turbo
kit for the NA's achieving 300 horses ? With the less weight than a TT
and
still some good traction I'm pretty sure that one can brake into the 13's on the
1/4 mile. As this step one will not
include any intercooling only measuring
the temperatures will show any necessary cooling.
Ok, discussion is open
:) If anyone can provide me with digital pics from a 3S, especiall under/behind
the TB, rear
exhaust manifold, from manifold, are under the pass headlight,
etc. I'd draw a short design on how the system could
look like.
Maybe
I'm off with my calculation or I have just forgotten anything. Please let me
know what do you think and ask me as
much as you can. As I do not have an NA
car I probably did not thought about something. Also keep this thread as
official as possible to get as much input from the group as
possible.
Regards,
Roger (where can I get an NA cheap here, hehe
???)
__________________________
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 07:35:26 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
Flywheel is new. I replaced it to
eliminate the possibility of the machine
work being done wrong.
As I
posted, I have about 1500 miles on the clutch before I did any
aggressive
driving.
The stock clutch that I took out held 5500 RPM launches with no
problems. I
may try the stock pressure plate with the Carbon disk,
depending on the
condition on the disk when I pull it out.
The biggest
problem is the labor involved in replacing the clutch. If it
were only
a 2.5 hour job I wouldn't' worry about it. The job takes at least
5+
hours to do it right.
I have sent Rob Smith an E-mail to see what he has
to say. I'll post further
when he gives me a
response.
*shrug*
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 2:35 AM
To: bbedell@austin.rr.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
rad, sorry to hear your bad experience on
the clutch side :((
What about braking in ? How many miles have you
done without going hard at
it ?
Brad, did you turned the flywheel
before you installed the RPS ?
>Seems Mitsubishi actually did
something right with the clutches.
Oh yeah ? I had 3 clutches within 36k
km, two master cylinders, new pedal,
brocken lever in clutch
assembly,
etc. And current stock clutch still slips when I want to launch at
5500 !!
I have heard from two people that installed it and both are happy
so far. Of
course, they are still braking it in.
All RPS GP
participants : I was told the flywheel MUST be turned to prepare
the surface
for the carbon. Doing
this and doing a good brake-in the clutch should be
great !
Good luck with the stock clutch,
Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:19:33 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Garbage set rims
& tires wanted
If you have 4 junk rims with bald tires - I want
em.
Prefer 16 size but can use 16, 17, or 18.
They only need to hold air
(slow air leak OK)
so I can move my car off the jacks onto a
trailer.
Looking for really cheap price. Please, Email direct.
Tks. Arty
91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:25:15 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Synchros needed
A saw a post a while back that someone was
selling their synchros that they
bought from Jack T.
Are they still
available?
Anyone else that bought them from Jack T. and does not need
them, please let
me know. I'm in the market for a set(1-2 is where I'm
having a problem, but
3-4 would also be nice as long as I have the tranny
apart.)
My problem is not shifting from 1st to 2nd, its from shifting
from any gear
to 1st while the car is in motion(Grind). I believe my
problem is with the
"blocking ring" or "baulking ring"(I've seen it both
ways). This ring is
part of the synchro assembly.
Anyone out
there that has taken their tranny apart, contact me privately
with your
experiences.
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
June 22, 1999 2:03 PM
To: stealth-3000
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment
help
> try switching tires left to right. most likely this will
solve
> your problem.
Only if your tires have non-directional tread
should you swap right to left.
If you have directional tread, an arrow on the
sidewall will show the
required rotation direction.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:52:37 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RPS Carbon clutch!!
> My carbon clutch is slipping. After 1500
miles of break in on
> the engine, I decided it was time to beat on the
car a little.
> The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into
the throttle.
> Needless to say I am very disappointed. The stock
clutch held more power.
> I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new
stock clutch.
I don't know anything about the RPS clutches, but on the
other aftermarket
clutches I used on my DSM they each had a different
flywheel depth
specification. Did your machine shop cut your flywheel
correctly?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:10:09 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Synchros needed
join the crowd. Kormex Trans in CA was
SUPPOSED to be developing a set and they were due out this month. Haven't
heard anything from Frank Martin on an update. I'm sure the list is quite
long. Brad Bedell had a set or two, that he sold a month or so ago.
They went like wildfire.
Any other sources out there that have appeared
lately?
- --
On Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:25:15 Wendlandt,
Mark (MN51) wrote:
>A saw a post a while back that someone was selling
their synchros that they
>bought from Jack T.
>
>Are they
still available?
>
>Anyone else that bought them from Jack T. and
does not need them, please let
>me know. I'm in the market for a
set(1-2 is where I'm having a problem, but
>3-4 would also be nice as long
as I have the tranny apart.)
>
>My problem is not shifting from 1st
to 2nd, its from shifting from any gear
>to 1st while the car is in
motion(Grind). I believe my problem is with the
>"blocking ring" or
"baulking ring"(I've seen it both ways). This ring is
>part of the
synchro assembly.
>
>Anyone out there that has taken their tranny
apart, contact me privately
>with your
experiences.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
>Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
>Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
>Sent:
Tuesday, June 22, 1999 2:03 PM
>To: stealth-3000
>Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alignment help
>
>
>> try switching tires left to
right. most likely this will solve
>> your problem.
>
>Only
if your tires have non-directional tread should you swap right to
left.
>If you have directional tread, an arrow on the sidewall will show
the
>required rotation direction.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:54:52 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
I specifically asked Rob about
this. He said "stock specifications is what
the clutch is designed
for".
Centerforce is the only clutch who specifies a different flywheel
depth
specification.
I used a new flywheel to avoid the
possibility of machining the flywheel
wrong.
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
I don't know anything about the RPS clutches, but on
the other aftermarket
clutches I used on my DSM they each had a different
flywheel depth
specification. Did your machine shop cut your flywheel
correctly?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:09:29 PDT
From: Michael Reiss <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
I just received my Carbon Clutch from the
GP and threads like
this are making me second guess installing it.
Overall
the design looks ok but I was surprised how thin the pucks are. I
was
more concerned about longevity rather than slippage...but now that seems
to
be an issue too.
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>To:
"Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
>Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:23:27
-0500
>
>My carbon clutch is slipping. After 1500 miles of
break in on the engine,
>I
>decided it was time to beat on the car
a little.
>
>The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into
the throttle.
>Needless to say I am very disappointed. The stock
clutch held more power.
>I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new
stock clutch.
>
>
>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something
right with the clutches...This is
>my
>second RPS and they still
can't get it right. I hope everyone who purchased
>theirs on the group
purchase will have better luck than I have.
>
>Brad
>Check out
my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
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Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 23 Jun 1999 12:44:25 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ground control group purchase
Lo and behold ---- springs and adjustable
spacers dropped in my lap from ground control via UPS.
has the dam
broken?? Plus as an added bonus --- the RPS carbon clutch. Will
wonders never cease.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/330#
R
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #213
****************************
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