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(Team3S Digest)
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Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #204
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Team3S Digest
Saturday, June 12 1999 Volume 01
: Number
204
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 11 Jun 1999 17:26:18 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics
I can offer the following simple
rules that may help you:
With all else equal (engine/oil pump speed,
bearing/lash adjuster/squirter
clearances/size), oil pressure will be
dictated by viscosity, i.e. the lower the
viscosity, the lower the oil
pressure. Oil weight and temperature greatly
effect
viscosity.
Oil will increase in viscosity with use UNLESS
foreign fluids such as fuel or coolant
are added. The fact that you are
running synthetic, elevated temperatures, and possibly
a higher than normal
fuel content all lead to a low viscosity / low oil pressure
condition.
Lack of oil pressure is very dangerous. A thin oil film on bearings
will
overwork the oil breaking it down much quicker and can lead to a failed
engine.
Personally, I would change your oil and install an inline fuel
pressure gage to see if
you fuel rail is bleeding down. If so, you
should also have your injectors
cleaned/replaced. Are you by chance
running an aftermarket fuel system?
Best of Luck,
Joe
Gonsowski
Fred Richardson wrote:
> I have recently switched to
Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am getting the
> oil light at idle when
the engine is hot. I also smell fuel on the dipstick.
> Is it the oil or
have I got injector problems?
>
> Fred
> #121
> '95 RT
TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 11 Jun 1999 19:38:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: 17" VR-4 wheels / followup
Hello all,
In case
you can't remember, I had mentioned that I located a place
selling refinished
VR-4 wheels, Arrow Tire in Upland, CA.
Well, I just received 2 of the 4
wheels, and wanted to report on my
opinion of them.
THEY SUCK!
.....(just kidding) :)
Actually, they are quite nice! They look
very good for refurbished
wheels. There are a few small pits on 1 of
the two, but not noticeable
from a distance (few feet). The inside of
the wheel is not rechromed (who
cares about that), but I am impressed so
far.
I only received 2 of the 4 as I ended up having to order via credit
card,
and wanted to minimize my risk. Arrow Tire & Wheel renegged
on COD
shipments becuase they found out that UPS no longer accepts cash, and
a
check was too much of a risk on their behalf.
The other 2 are on
their way, and I will be (hopefully) receiveing them a
week from
Monday.
I have pics of the wheels in case anyone is interested.
(I
will probably be throwing them up on a web page soon).
Arrow Tire &
Wheel: 800-884-4349 ; Upland, CA
Talk to Brian
Regards,
Dennis
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 09:27:53 EDT
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Track Report
- Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen (long)
Warning long post. First some
background information. Owner-David Skultety.
Car- 1993 VR4. Mods - K&N,
Gutted cats. Blitz running at 1.05 bars, Enkei
RP01 17x9 wrapped with
G-force R1's 255/45/17, Brad's Porsche calipers with
stock 94+ rotors,
Ground Control set up with 650 lb. front & 550 rear, Gab's
adjustable
shocks, brake backing plates removed, front camber plates set to
- -3.1
degrees with 0 toe and +5.0 castor, rears at -2.0 camber and 0 toe, cold
pressure's - 36 front & 32 rears, pagid orange pads. I have been at
Pocono,
Lime Rock, and Summit Point tracks for a total of 15 days so far.
First time
at the Glen. The Glen is a 3.4 mile road course in upper state
New York. This
is a high speed course with 11 turns and a lot of blind
apex's along with
multiple elevation changes. Weather was perfect both days
at 80. As this was
my first time here, I had an instructor ride with me for
the morning of the
first day. He showed me the line, run off area's and
"some" tricks he was
willing to share. Front straight at 120 into a braking
zone that goes down
hill. Ninety degree right hander that continues down
hill and a little off
camber ( tough turn to learn) . Turn 2 is a 45 right
hander starting up a
long hill through a 45 left and 45 right ( turns
3&4) onto the back straight.
At the bottom of the hill just prior to
turn 2 you can short shift into 4th,
and keep the go-juice full on through
the back straight. The rear will get a
little loose in turn 3 due to some
small bumps that upset the car slightly (
translation - pedal full and hang
up). Back straight at 140 + into the inner
loop. VERY hard
braking zone. The inner loop in a quick right, quick left,
quick right
combination. You can use a lot of the rumble strips as they have
flattened
them out this year. Turn 5 is a 140 degree right hander that goes
down hill
with a blind apex, but you can carry alot of speed through it if
you have a
clean line and big ones. Turn 6 is a 120 degree left hander that
starts at
the bottom of a steep hill. Turn 7 is a 170 degree right hander
that start
you on an uphill track. You can load the front end if you brake
late and use
the beginning of the uphill section to keep the front end loaded
once you
lift off the brakes. Turn 8 is another down hill braking zone into a
100
degree right hander. Turn 9 is a 110 degree left followed by a short
straight into a 80 degree left hander (turn 10). Turn 11 is a 100 degree
right which brings you onto the front straight. That a lap at the Glen.
Turns
1, entrance into the inner loop on the back straight, turn 6 into the
chute,
and turn 8 are all HEAVY braking zones. I found 3-4 turns very hard
to learn
quickly due to blind apex's requiring other reference points to be
used ( ie.
trees, signs, etc ). Used 8 gallons of gas in 1/2 hour ( 6 mpg).
Once I
started to get comfortable, this track is both a blast and a
challenge.
Course is know to eat tires and brakes. Although I had no braking
issues at
Summit Point ( 2.0 mile course ), I did start to experience fade
after
several hot laps. At noon on day 2 started to get a slight warp in the
right
front. Replaced stock rotors with my one used KVR and one new KVR.
Prayed
that nothing would snap this time. Bleed brakes and had some
discoloration.
After several cruise laps ( 100 front , 110 back straight )
started to get
comfort level back. Still got fade. Brought it in to
cool off. Went out with
the guy who was my instructor the previous day. He
has a 911 stripped to the
bone. VERY fast car. On second lap setting up
another 911 for a pass in the
down hill short straight prior to turn 6. We
got the point by and the car we
were over taking moved over to the right.
Some how he moved too far to the
right and got 2 wheels off. Then either he
hit something or tried to get it
back on the track ( a no-no). The result
was he hooked back onto the track
and appeared right in front of us. T-boned
him in to drivers door at 95 mph
and sent him off. We broke the front oil
cooler and lost all steering control
and slowly spiraled into the armco on
the left. Impact at 50-60 square with
the right front. Bounced off armco and
spun 180 degrees coming to rest with
the front end on the track and me
looking up hill at oncoming traffic.
Luckily we were on the opposite side of
the track from the normal line.
Thank god for helmets and 5 point
harness. No one was hurt, but both cars
were pretty banged up. My chest was
a little sore the next day from the
harness, and I had a slight stiff neck
from my head snapping forward. There
were a lot of fast cars there, several
Bush type cars out for some test time
with drivers trying to break into the
"big time". A Ferrari challenge car
that passed my on the back straight like
I was stopped on the track and
disappeared within 3 seconds. So overall I
had a blast on this track,
survived a wreak, and learned that even big
brakes on this particular track
will fade. Started to build cooling ducts
last night. Will use 1.5 x 4.5 in
sheet metal boxes that will fit into the
inspection covers in the active aero
and have two 2" hoses running out the
back end of the boxes into the rotors.
Hopefully this will help. Also will
order a neck brace after snapping my neck
like a twig. Will be back at the
Glen June 30 and July 1st. Will post again
after that. For more info on The
Glen go to www.theglen.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:47:36 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Track Report - Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen & Camber settings.
In a
message dated 6/12/99 8:29:32 AM Central Daylight Time, Dskull@aol.com
writes:
<<
front camber plates set to
-3.1 degrees with 0 toe and +5.0 castor,
rears at -2.0 camber and 0 toe,
cold
pressure's - 36 front &
32 rears, pagid orange pads. >>
Thanks for the great post! I
appreciated that information!
I am curious about your rear camber
settings. How did you accomplish that?
I am trying to find a way
to make my rear (driver's side) lower control arm
more "adjustable". I
guess I have too much "negative" in my rear (driver's
side) lower control
arm; I was asked by my alignment guy to go purchase an
"adjustable rear
camber bolt" and to bring it back; well, NO ONE has these
"adjustable rear
camber bolt kits". I believe I have too much negativity;
and I would
like to install my Eibach PRO-KIT springs soon; but I believe
that will add
even more negativity.
Please advise!
Thank
you!
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost
controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport
boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow
cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto
Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1
17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed
yet). And Yes, my Transmission is FIXED!!!!!
&
1987 Buick Grand
National (way too many mods to list!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 11:47:23 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Track Report - Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen (long)
> Started
to build cooling ducts last night. Will use 1.5 x 4.5 in
>sheet metal
boxes that will fit into the inspection covers in the active
aero
>and
have two 2" hoses running out the back end of the boxes into the rotors.
David:
Great post! I want to run the Glen someday - after
we do Elkhart Lake and
Mid Ohio, and get a trailer.
It's a long tow from
here (Cedar Rapids).
Some advice on your cooling ducts: Keep the hose
away from the halfshaft
boot. The hose won't interfere, but if it rubs
against the boot, it will
wear it out. I fabricated a piece of 1x1 in.
angle thin aluminum (angle
side toward the boot for protection) to keep the
hose away. Drill two holes
and mount the bracket on the caliper bolts. Then,
bolt a small 1x1 in.
L-shaped bracket to the angle iron to serve as an anchor
for a radiator
hose. Clamp a radiator hose around the cooling hose and
anchor bracket:
this will keep the end of the hose pointed directly at the
center of the
rotor and keep it out of the halfshaft boot.
If
you are having any trouble with the front scoops, let me know. I have
a
solution for that, too, but it sounds like you know what you're doing.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/Somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 11 Jun 1999 07:17:09 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)
The Eibachs are GREAT springs,
but only drop the car 1". The difference is
perceived stiffness exists, but
is not uncomfortable. I've driven seven
hundred miles (in a day) with them
and have been very comfortable. The RSRs
are also popular, a couple
listmembers have used them. They also drop an
inch. The adjustable Ground
Control units (subject of a recent thread and
group purchase) can be adjusted
to drop up to 2.5" (as I recall). Caution
about too much drop, you're likely
to have clearance problems with the
Active Aero in front and the exhaust
system from below.
Looking forward...Chris (with Eibachs)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Thursday,
June 10, 1999 7:38 PM
To: Rice-Burner Crusher; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Anyone there?
- -----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner
Crusher
<stealth_es@hotmail.com>
<snip>
|Anyway,
who makes lowering springs for our cars. I'm looking to
drop
|1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride.. Who makes a
good
|setup??
I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they
seem to be the
popular choice... I think any aftermarket springs are
going to cost a
bit of comfort, though.
<snip>
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:40:21 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
Hi all,
This is my first
post to this list (thanks Roger), hope this post goes
through ok. I am also a
regular at 3si.org.
I have a 1995 VR4. Mods are FIPK, Blitz DSBC set to
1.05 peak, 1 bar
sustained. I have new set of plugs to gap to .034 and
magnecors waiting
to be installed. Stock everything else. Best 1/4 et 13.227,
best mph
105.75, best 60' 1.884.
I like many others that put on an
aftermarket air filter, suffer from
what has been described as a "honking
goose" a "blowing over a soda
bottle" sound at moderate throttle. I had this
bad and it was getting
worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking stock
bypass valve or a
partially opened wastegate. I decided to try a 1st gen DSM
valve because
I hear they work good on our cars, so what the heck. I got the
valve
from Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to fit our
cars
for $125.00 USD.
It cured the problem!!! Had to tweak the y-pipe
hose a little to get it
to clear the linkage for 3rd and 5th gears and the
intake side diameter
of the valve was smaller than stock but it clamped down
no problem.
I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and
was able to
get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem. Now
I'm
wondering if this was causing loss of boost pressure because the
DSM
valve would not leak no matter how hard I tried to blow through it.
The
seat of the pants feeling was that the turbos spool up quicker and I
was
pressed harder back in my seat. It didn't seem to affect the BC
setting
as much as I thought it would. Oh well, back to the track for
more
testing.
Glad to be here :-)
Bruce
3Si #0243
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 21:40:35 +0200
From: "Robby" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
Bruce, welcome to the list
:)
Have you also tried just to remove the small pipings that are pluged
into
the BOV upstream hole ?
As you maybe know, there are some cars
that do not have the sound (like
mine, never had it) and others do (I heard
it in Jim's Stealth) but we all
have the very same BPV ! The stock one has a
little hole in it and this is
something like a little leak, but too small for
causing any problems.
>worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking
stock bypass valve or a
>partially opened wastegate.
The second is
definitely not the case as it happens only on partial load and
a wastegate
wouldn't causing any sound in the intake parts as it is a part
in the exhaust
trakt :-)
>from Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to
fit our cars
>for $125.00 USD.
Wow, pretty expensive
:(
>It cured the problem!!! Had to tweak the y-pipe hose a little to
get it
>to clear the linkage for 3rd and 5th gears and the intake side
diameter
>of the valve was smaller than stock but it clamped down no
problem.
Just make sure that it will not pop-off under full boost rise
!!
>>I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and
was able to
>get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the
problem.
No, is not as this is normal and I do have the same on my car. I
currently
have almost everything stock including the BPV and I can't hear
anything
with the K&N FIPK. Of course, the different turbos may have an
effect on
this behaviour too.
>seat of the pants feeling was that
the turbos spool up quicker and I was
>pressed harder back in my
seat.
Why should it do this ? It is smaller than the stock BPV and should
vent
more pressure ?? It solved your hooting problem but will not do
anything
else to the system. I only may guess that yo ualready had a broken
BPV but
your ET's say that the car runs very good without a
problem.
> It didn't seem to affect the BC setting as much as I
thought it would.
As said, there cannot be any effect.
> Oh
well, back to the track for more testing.
And if you see a better time
than don't count it to the BPV as it does the
same job as before (but it is
somewhat smaller). A BOV may release some more
boost somewhat quicker that
may result in better spool-up of the
turbos.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 14:09:52 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
> Have you also tried
just to remove the small pipings that are pluged into
> the BOV upstream
hole ?
No but I saw them. It looked like a channel that diverted the
return into each side of
the intake. Not really tubes. More of a flat Y
shaped channel. I didn't see any easy way
to remove it.
> >from
Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to fit our cars
>
>for $125.00 USD.
>
> Wow, pretty expensive :(
I know. But
the adapter is steel and appears to be very well made.
> Just make
sure that it will not pop-off under full boost rise !!
The intake side
was only about 1/8" smaller than stock. I got a very good grip on it. I
don't
expect any problems. The IC side was same diameter as stock.
>
>>I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and was able
to
> >get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the
problem.
>
> No, is not as this is normal and I do have the same on
my car. I currently
> have almost everything stock including the BPV and I
can't hear anything
> with the K&N FIPK. Of course, the different
turbos may have an effect on
> this behaviour too.
>
>
>seat of the pants feeling was that the turbos spool up quicker and I
was
> >pressed harder back in my seat.
>
> Why should it do
this ? It is smaller than the stock BPV and should vent
> more pressure ??
It solved your hooting problem but will not do anything
> else to the
system. I only may guess that yo ualready had a broken BPV but
> your ET's
say that the car runs very good without a problem.
I would think that if
I can get it to leak with just mouth pressure, it would have to
also bleeding
off some boost to the intake??
Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 12 Jun 1999 14:34:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)
I wasn't originally going to get
lowering springs, but when I looked
at the pictures of our San Francisco
gathering in January (BANG'99), I
realized just how high off the ground my
car is compared to all the
other cars. Mine looks like I've got truck
stiffeners lifting the
chassis off the ground compared to the other cars in
the line-up. I
know they ship these cars with rubber spacers in the
springs (that are
supposed to be removed by the dealer before sale), but I'm
starting to
think that maybe they never took the spacers out on my car!
BTW, I
have an NT, so I don't have to worry about Active Aero
clearance.
Just from looking at the pictures, do any of you guys think a 1"
drop
will be enough for me? I don't think so... My pictures never
got put
up, since they got buried somewhere in my move, but Chris
Winkley's
and Scott Alcaide's are at:
www.bobforrest.com/Bang99CW.htm
www.bobforrest.com/Bang99SA.htm
Any
feedback would be appreciated. Mine is the '94 Red Stealth (on
the end
in several photos...).
Best,
Forrest
- -----Original
Message-----From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
|The
Eibachs are GREAT springs, but only drop the car 1". The
difference
is
|perceived stiffness exists, but is not uncomfortable. I've
driven
seven
|hundred miles (in a day) with them and have been very
comfortable.
The RSRs
|are also popular, a couple listmembers have used
them. They also drop
an
|inch. The adjustable Ground Control units
(subject of a recent thread
and
|group purchase) can be adjusted to drop
up to 2.5" (as I recall).
Caution
|about too much drop, you're likely to
have clearance problems with
the
|Active Aero in front and the exhaust
system from below.
|
|Looking forward...Chris (with
Eibachs)
|
|-----Original Message-----From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
|
|-----Original
Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
|<stealth_es@hotmail.com>
|<snip>
||Anyway,
who makes lowering springs for our cars. I'm looking
to
drop
||1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride.. Who
makes a
good
||setup??
|
|I've been looking at the Eibachs for my
car too; they seem to be the
|popular choice... I think any aftermarket
springs are going to cost
a
|bit of comfort,
though.
|<snip>
|Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #204
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm