--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #203
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Friday, June 11 1999          Volume 01 : Number 203




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 09:21:36 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: A - pillar pods

Does anybody know where to get A-pillar gauge pods in white rather than
black?  The black doesn't go so well with the white pillar in my car.

THX


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 08:38:42 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Max bar/psi on 15Gs

Folks...

While having my 15Gs rebuilt by TEC, the technician informed me that, even
though the 15Gs will maintain boost at higher RPMs, they are NOT designed to
stand up under higher boost. He claimed that 1.0 bar/15 psi is all they
should be pushed to without creating premature wear. Has anyone else had
experience with this? How long have your upgraded turbos lasted if you've
been running 1.5 bar/22 psi?

I think this is an issue of interest to the entire list. So remember, use
the "reply to all" icon to respond to the list, the "reply" icon if you want
your response to be sent to me alone.

Thanks.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:07:39 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

Hey guys/ gals,

I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get some
chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find wheels
that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell me
where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for my
left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.

David

now you understand why she is my EX.. :)
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:10:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Update

Hello all,

DISCLAIMER:  I know this does not pertain to everyone here, but if someone
has a list of all those involved in the GC group purchase, please send it
this way.  Otherwise, I do not have any other way to inform the other GC
GP members of what is going on. :)

I have just contacted Ground Control about our Group Purchase, and where
we stand with it.  Apparently, they *still* have not shipped our orders
out yet, and have just informed me that they *might* be able to ship it
out by the middle of next week. (grrr!)

They are reporting difficulty in the machine shop getting, "...a part
here, a part there...", which is rather unfortunate. 

Perhaps if we are persistent, we can get them to speed things up for us.

BTW, their number is (530) 677-8600.

Regards,
   Dennis


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

David...

I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged to fit
our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty offered to
sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip, one for
the street.

You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs at a
local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim pickings.
Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm not sure
if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're EXPENSIVE.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

Hey guys/ gals,

I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get some
chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find wheels
that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell me
where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for my
left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.

David
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:25:40 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service

This is cracking me up.. heck I did that on my first brake job.  I have
always used "C" clamps, they have never fail me, plus you might have them
around your shop. You can keep the one pad still on the caliper, then put
your C clamp to push in all the pistions. Or have them done, it sounds
like you don't have the tools or the swavy to change the brakes without
damanaging your calipers. That was not ment as a put down , but I would
hate to screw up my car if I could not complete the work without the
proper tools.  If you would like to continue to work on your car, I would
buy the shop manuals from the dealer.  If you need any special tools the
manual will tell you what you need.  the as a bonus, the detail EVERY
STEP that you have to go through to complete ANY JOB. To get a set of
manuals contact MitsuVR41@aol.com to see if he still has his set , he is
selling them REAL CHEAP TOO.


David

On Mon, 07 Jun 1999 15:09:56 -0400 William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
writes:
> Merrit,
>
> Get a couple of 10-12" C clamps that is how most shade tree
> mechanics do
> it.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> Merritt wrote:
> > The Old Poop brake shop knows how to change pads and rotors, but
> obviously
> > I'm not doing it quite right.
> >
> > Any advice on how to deal with recalitrant calipers would be
> greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:29:21 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

Thanks for the quick response, Just remind everyone, because it is a 1991
I have 17 inch wheels, I forgot to add that bit of info.

David

Chris - can you say TAX REFUND Check :) that will pay for my tires and
wheels




On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700 Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
> David...
>
> I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged
> to fit
> our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty
> offered to
> sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip,
> one for
> the street.
>
> You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs
> at a
> local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim
> pickings.
> Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm
> not sure
> if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're
> EXPENSIVE.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
>
> Hey guys/ gals,
>
> I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
> wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
> Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
> some
> chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
> wheels
> that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
> everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
> me
> where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
> my
> left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>
> David
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:40:18 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

TSW does not make a tire for the VR4 just the GT. :(



On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700 Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
> David...
>
> I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged
> to fit
> our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty
> offered to
> sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip,
> one for
> the street.
>
> You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs
> at a
> local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim
> pickings.
> Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm
> not sure
> if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're
> EXPENSIVE.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
>
> Hey guys/ gals,
>
> I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
> wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
> Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
> some
> chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
> wheels
> that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
> everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
> me
> where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
> my
> left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>
> David
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:34:18 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

I don't remember if it's on their site or there's just a link there,
but TireRack has lots of info about wheels, sizes, and compatibility.
You can also preview what the various wheels look like on your car...
www.tirerack.com

Forrest

- -----Original Message-----From: David J Moravek
<david.moravek@juno.com>

|Hey guys/ gals,
|
|I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
|wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
|Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
some
|chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
wheels
|that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
|everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
me
|where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
my
|left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
|
|David
|
|now you understand why she is my EX.. :)



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:52:47 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service

Go down to your friendly brake place, and ask them to do it, and tell them
you want to watch.
It'll cost about $35 in labor, cuz they can do it in about 30-45 minutes.

Write down everything they do.
Make sure they don't use an air wrench on the lug nuts, cuz that will warp
the rotor.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:52:47 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service

Go down to your friendly brake place, and ask them to do it, and tell them
you want to watch.
It'll cost about $35 in labor, cuz they can do it in about 30-45 minutes.

Write down everything they do.
Make sure they don't use an air wrench on the lug nuts, cuz that will warp
the rotor.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 12:36:13 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels  - Repairing Old Ones

Have you looked into repairing the damaged ones.  I know the place I've listed below CAN repair them as I had dropped my right rear off a real twisty mountain road in northern CA and put a 1" outward facing dimple of the inside of the rim - causing it to leak.  They also machine down any of the bumps and bruises that the left side rims can take, then build them up.  Depending on how extensive the damage, its roughly $40-$100 per rim.  They are good - as they have rebuilt / repaired many other rims including spoked models of some really old British models.  You should have somebody in your area that can probably do about the same thing.

Rite-Way Wire & Wheel Spec
1119 Alpine Road, Walnut Creek, CA 94596
(925) 933-4046 
- --

On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:34:18   Bob Forrest wrote:
>I don't remember if it's on their site or there's just a link there,
>but TireRack has lots of info about wheels, sizes, and compatibility.
>You can also preview what the various wheels look like on your car...
>www.tirerack.com
>
>Forrest
>
>-----Original Message-----From: David J Moravek
><david.moravek@juno.com>
>
>|Hey guys/ gals,
>|
>|I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
>|wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
>|Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
>some
>|chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
>wheels
>|that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
>|everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
>me
>|where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
>my
>|left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>|
>|David
>|
>|now you understand why she is my EX.. :)
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 20:50:31 EDT
From: Rice-Burner Crusher <stealth_es@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Anyone there?

I haven't recieved any list mail for a couple of days now...  Is there
anyone out there???

Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to drop
1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a good
setup??


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 20:36:03 -0700
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: idle problems

I come to the pros with a truly weird problem.
Recently I finished changing my timing belt, water pump and springs. At
first my engine ran great, but after a while, my idle started getting
screwy. At first I thought it was my timing, but after checking the belt, it
was perfect. After a week, tension was OK and all marks lined up. My problem
seems to be intermittent. Whenever the car is moving, when I put my foot on
the clutch, the idle drops to about 2k RPM, then drops again to around 1k
RPM, and then revs back up to 2k RPM. This continues with perfect rythm till
the car is at a stop. Then the car goes up to 2.5k RPMs and sits there,
idling. If i move the car even slightly, eg I lift my foot off the brakes
when I'm on a hill, the fluctuating idle kicks in again. This happens ONLY
when the wheels are moving, no matter how fast or slow. This is intermittent
and the car acts like normal sometimes. I thought it was my idle speed
control motor going bad, but even after unplugging it, the problem remains.
Only after taping up the holes in the throttle body leading to the motor
does the problem seem to disappear.

Why would the problem disappear after taping those ports up? Does this
indicate the ISC, or does it just cover up the problem? I would think that
unplugging the ISC would stop it from fluctuating the idle if it was the
part at fault.
What other parts control the idle in our cars other then the ISC?
Why would this happen ONLY when moving? It doesn't happen when stopped,
brakes or not. Could the wheel speed sensor(s) be at fault here? I thought
they were only for ABS?
Could the TPS in any way have something to do with this? Last time I touched
the TPS was when i changed the plugs 6 months ago.
It's this whole motion related thing that's got me confused.
I'm on an extremely tight budget and can't go to the dealer for a while. If
anyone can offer their thoughts on this I'd be grateful.

Omar
92 r/t

PS, the BJ boot on my friends 3kgt cracked and it looks like all the grease
leaked out. how far can he drive the car without damaging the ball joint?


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 19:03:56 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 6G72 shortblock

I see on the starnet list someone has a shortblock with a couple of rod caps missing --- what are
the
ramifications of that?? Are the caps matched to the rod? I know on some engines they bore the big
end score it then break it to form a unique mating surface, or sometimes they machine to a surface
finish and then put in bearings to match the crank.

Also -- will the 6G72 shortblock  fit the turbo and non turbo DOHC. I assume the turbo has a lower
compression ratio -- is that done in the heads or crank throw or ???


           Jim Berry

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 22:10:55 -0400
From: "BRADLEY A COCKS." <BRADCOCKS@prodigy.net>
Subject: Team3S: STOCK 18'' VR4 WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!

           I HAVE A SET OF VR4 WHEELS FOR SALE .

        I AM FROM NY AND CAN BE REACHED AT 914-588-5216 OR
bradcocks@prodigy.net


                                   thanks    brad cocks


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 19:38:08 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anyone there?

- -----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
<stealth_es@hotmail.com>

|I haven't recieved any list mail for a couple of days now...  Is
there
|anyone out there???
|
|Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to drop
|1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a good
|setup??


I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they seem to be the
popular choice...  I think any aftermarket springs are going to cost a
bit of comfort, though.

If you're not getting mail, there must be something wrong with your
ISP.  In the last 2 days just my saved file has over a dozen posts,
plus those I deleted...  It's summertime and lists always get lighter
as folks go out to have fun in their cars!

Forrest


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 20:57:09 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: idle problems

Omar;

Our big time trouble shooters are likely asleep, so I thought a couple of quick
suggestions would at least eliminate these possibilities (if you haven't already tried
them) and leave room for them to offer more insightful suggestions when they wake up.

1) Check and insure the MAS is plugged in properly/not a loose connection
2) Check your Y pipe connection
3) Disconnect your ECU and reconnect...sometimes it helps and certainly deletes this as
a possible source of an error in the computer. (ie disconnect battery + for 15 mins)

Best

Darc



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 02:37:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: ARC-GP2 Installed...

Hi All,

  Got my car back today with the ARC-GP2 and RC 550s installed. As of
now, my mods include: a 12in long 4in opening K&N, Trust off-road
exhaust, DSBC, ARC-GP2 MAF kit, 13Gs, RC 550s, Greddy plugs gaped down,
Vitek wires, forged rods and pistons.

  Did some test runs with a G-Tec, but I'm very skepticle about the
numbers and the number weren't consistent. Besides, I'm a very very
terrible 1/4miler (more into open track). So sorry no numbers can be
reported.

  As for daily drivability, there was little difference before and
after installation of the unit. Although, it did stall a couple of
times at the stop light; and a few time some stumbling when rolling out
on 1st gear. Some more fine tunning will probably get rid of it
(hopefully). Throttle response is great with no hesitation as I would
expect from the 550s. Good low and mid range aceleration.  Highway
accel from 5th gear is good w/o any stumbles.

  I can now safely (i hope) boost to 1.15 bar and hold it til redline
w/o any problem of hesitation and leaning out compare to before. No
more 1st gear stumbles during hard accel at high boost either. The car
does feel alot faster.

  Only hard evidence of improvement was midnight test runs with 2 stock
M3s. We did some rolling start runs from 40mph to about 120mph on an
open stretch back road about 3/4 mile long. Although both '98 M3s were
stock, one was about 1 car length faster than the other one
(40-120mph). The slower one has 18in wheels and a boom box in trunk,
would that make such big difference? I have ran with the faster M3
before, I was suprisingly only 1 1/2 to 2 car length faster (40-120).
This was at 1 bar of boost. Tonite, dialing the DSBC @ 1.1 bar: by the
end of 2nd gear, he was still at my rear 1/4 panel. As i shifted into
3rd, my car just left him behind. By the end of 3rd gear (around 120),
I was 3-4 car length ahead! YEAH! We did a few more runs and the
results were the same. I love the 3rd in our cars, pulls strong and
lasts long!

  Conclusion: Very good daily driving capabilty, some more fine tuning
of idling still needed. Significant amt of HP is felt and seen. No more
fear of leaning out in high boost situations. Although some had said
this unit is over-priced, but comparing to the VPC and extra costs of
dual power flow and GCC, I believe its still a lot cheaper. I also
saved money from installation. I have no experience with a VPC so I
can't give any comparison.

  Happy motoring!

George
S. Cal, USA
'92 RT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 13:59:24 +0100
From: robby@freesurf.ch
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service

Thanks Matt for the remainder on the EFI PMS. I never contacted them to
ask for a 3S version of it but it's maybe worth asking them. I never did
due to the price but if the system can be adapted to the 3S as well and
there is a more mass to sell the price may drop :)

Thanks,
Roger

> This sounds almost exactly what the EFI Systems PMS provides.
> It has a larger MAF (hotwire-style), converts MAF to Karman Vortex
> (Eclipse PMS), idle fuel and timing control, O2 sensor readout (and
> datalog), MAP readout (and datalog), Injector Duty Cycle percentage
> (and pulsewidth) readout (and datalog), full adjustment of fuel and
> timing based upon throttle position and manifold pressure (and use of
> nitrous, if so hooked-up), full datalogging, 2-row backlit LCD display

> and control pad.

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 08:31:13 -0400
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics

I have recently switched to Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am getting the
oil light at idle when the engine is hot. I also smell fuel on the dipstick.
Is it the oil or have I got injector problems?

Fred
#121
'95 RT TT

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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 15:06:49 +0100
From: robby@freesurf.ch
Subject: Re: Team3S: idle problems

Usually, when the car sits and idles we see 800-850rpm and there is not
a lot that consumes power. If you now turn the sterring wheel or the car
starts to move the idle jumps up to around 1000-1500 and comes back
slowly. This is controlled by the ECU and the current levels can be read
out by the MITSU scan tool. With A/C on, this is highly increased and I
saw around 2000 rpm last summer with the car slightly moving. The input
for this is indeed the motion sensor.

IMHO it has nothing to do with the TPS but it's maybe worth checking the
voltage anyways.

Try to do the test with the steering wheel and with A/C on and off and
let us know.

As I read there is no hesitation when driving, right ? What about power,
enough to beat a Beetle (without a Porsche Turbo engine) ?

As Chris indicated, reset the ECU again and see if the stupid behaviour
comes back again. The ISC can control the rpms upon different sensors.
Also temp and barometric sensors play a ruel as the cold start idle must
be controled. INHO, the ECU sees a car that is always in a startup
situation. Idleing of 1200 and 1500 with A/C on is absolutely normal.
Even more after the rebuild last year I had the idle sitting at 2000
before the ECU relearned.

I do not really know what temp sensor that looks for the cold start but
I'd check the water temp sensor if it is porperly connected and if it is
ok. As you changed the pump I think you removed it or al least unplugged
it. Just an idea but maybe an inidcator that the ECU thinks the baby is
still in a startup procedure :)

Hope this helps,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 15:17:03 +0100
From: robby@freesurf.ch
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics

Fred, what is the oil pressure level ?
Of course, have you checked the oil level when car was warm ?
The oil light is also going on when the oil-pressure switch is not
activated. Although the oil pressure on our gauge shows a good level the
oil pressure switch may switch off during special conditions. At first
this started when my pistons and ring broke. Now it is activated on very
high speeds and driving a little bit uphills.

With Castrol Synthec fill up a little over the top mark. What is the
weight of the oil ?

Smelling fuel at the dipstick doesn't tell good things but maybe the new
oil smells that way. Remove the the ventilation hose from the front
valve cover during idle and check if the stuff smells the same. Also
check if milage is dropping.

If the crankcase ventilation still smells like gas and the mileage
drops, try to use a can of fuel system cleaner to remove possible carbon
deposits on the intake valves.

If all of this doesn't help ... do a compression check. The indicies are
pointing then to broken rings :(( Hope not !

Good luck,
Roger

> I have recently switched to Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am
> getting the oil light at idle when the engine is hot. I also smell
> fuel on the dipstick.
> Is it the oil or have I got injector problems?


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 16:26:15 +0100
From: robby@freesurf.ch
Subject: Re: Team3S: Max bar/psi on 15Gs

> though the 15Gs will maintain boost at higher RPMs, they are NOT
> designed to stand up under higher boost. He claimed that 1.0 bar/15
> psi is all they should be pushed to without creating premature wear.

Well, we know that with 1.0 bar the 15G feeds more volumetric compressed
air that the 9B or 13G. Therefore the 1.0 bars together with the
appropriate fuel does produce more horses than the 13G at the same
boost. but I never heard of a 15G dying due to the fact boost was over 1
bars !! The Supra guys are running 1.3 bars with their stock turbos and
the smaller one is know to die if the sequential stuff isn't working
properly. But my frind is running 1.25 bars without any problems so
far.

But if TEC says not going over 1.0 bars you'll never get above the 415hp
mark. Does this mean TEC doesn't give any warranty if you run higher
boost ?

BTW, I asked Brian/GT-Pro about the 368S I have and he told me that the
producer of them stand for their quality and 1.5bars allover the place
is not a problem. If it is ... I'm getting a new set.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT ... wet.. soon, very wet :)


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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 15:20:24 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adventures in braking

In the for what it's worth department:

I recently installed a set of Porterfield rotors, and took the stock rotors
up to my friendly brake shop to be turned. I had been running Performance
Friction carbon metallic pads, and both rotors were fully impregnated. Now
that I will be running stock pads on the street and Porterfield R4 pads at
the track (all non carbon metallic), I had to get my backup rotors
un-carbon-impregnated so they would work properly when needed (once a rotor
is carbon-impregnated, a stock pad won't work anymore. The carbon is like
glass to the pad).

Much to my amazement, neither stock rotor showed any signs of warping. As
you may or may not recall, I have broken two PowerSlot rotors at open track
events, and both times I replaced them with the rightside front rotor.
Therefore, that right front rotor has been through two complete open track
events, plus street miles, and still shows no signs of warping.

To all those folks who are warping their stock rotors...man, I dunno what
to tell you. It's hard to abuse rotors any more than I do, and mine don't
warp. Maybe it's the WAY you brake that does them in.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
94/VR4

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #203
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