--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #200
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Monday, June
7 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
200
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 06 Jun 1999 16:03:48 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...
I must have missed a post on this
thread. A 6 disc Pioneer?
I have long understood that Pioneer makes
a modle for our cars (I believe it's not
longer produced now) so can someone
in the know quote the CD Changer that fits the stock
rear adapter for our
vehicles. My information indicates it's CDX M30 but I'd like to be
certain.
Also, my information shows it to be a 5 disc unit. Finally, will stock
controls
control it.
Thanks in advance
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jun 1999 19:51:07 -0400
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Radar question
I just purchased the Valentine One for my Stealth,
as my commute has
increased to nearly an hour each way, with
a
co-orelative increase in traps encountered per diem.
Nice unit,
logic mode eliminates the majority of falses.
I have a theoretical
question, though, inspired by the info in the manual.
It mentioned that X
band is used for burglar alarms and garage door
openers...if a remote garage
door opener, or the circuitry thereof, were
activated in the direct presence
of a radar gun, would it confuse the radar
gun, giving it a false
reading?
Enquiring minds want to know.
Robyn
<I'll be in
Baltimore the week of the 13th of June, and in Frederick,
Maryland the
following weekend, and down to the Reston, VA area, then back
to Baltimore
for a week, e-mail me privately if anyone from the Northern
Virginia/DC/MD
area wants to get together for a cruise.>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jun 1999 20:45:45 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radar question
>>It mentioned that X band is used for
burglar alarms and garage door
openers...if a remote garage door opener, or
the circuitry thereof, were
activated in the direct presence of a radar gun,
would it confuse the radar
gun, giving it a false
reading?<<
Yes, it can.. But a more effective tool is a depth
finder for a boat with
the transducer mounted in the grill.. Not legal as far
as FCC is concerned,
but hey, never know when ya might need it for a deep
puddle :)
Regards,
Roger
94 VR-4 (that the admin says I can't talk
about)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jun 1999 17:44:23 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Radar question
Parham is pretty much the resident expert on
Valentine One, and I don't
know how frequently he monitors the "Team3S" list,
so I'd either check his
website for info ( www.3000gt.com ), or email him at webmaster@3000gt.com
.
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Stealth <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
|I
just purchased the Valentine One for my Stealth, as my commute has
|increased
to nearly an hour each way, with a
|co-orelative increase in traps
encountered per diem.
|
|Nice unit, logic mode eliminates the majority of
falses.
|
|I have a theoretical question, though, inspired by the info in
the manual.
|
|It mentioned that X band is used for burglar alarms and
garage door
|openers...if a remote garage door opener, or the circuitry
thereof, were
|activated in the direct presence of a radar gun, would it
confuse the
radar
|gun, giving it a false reading?
|
|Enquiring
minds want to know.
|
|Robyn
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jun 1999 20:47:23 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...
Can't definitively answer the
question, but I will say that the stock
changer in mine actually used a
Pioneer magazine..
Regards,
Roger
- -----Original
Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent:
Sunday, June 06, 1999 7:04 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...
I must have missed a post on
this thread. A 6 disc Pioneer?
I have long understood that Pioneer
makes a modle for our cars (I believe
it's not
longer produced now) so can
someone in the know quote the CD Changer that
fits the stock
rear adapter
for our vehicles. My information indicates it's CDX M30 but I'd
like to
be
certain. Also, my information shows it to be a 5 disc unit. Finally,
will
stock controls
control it.
Thanks in advance
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 6 Jun 1999 23:06:36 -0400
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for
sale
Have parts for a 93 Stealth TT for sale. If you need anything,
email me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 07:52:19 -0500
From: "Bill Davis" <wjdavis@inlink.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...
I do not have the original message
on this machine, Im at work now.
The 6 disc changer is a pioneer, regardless
of what it says on the front.
For whoever is looking for one, go to
crutchfield's web page, get their
phone
number, and call them. The changer
is old, so it won't be listed on their
page.
These people really know what
they are doing.
I bought a 96 base model, that the changer had been
removed from, and got
a changer from crutchfield, all adapters you need come
with it "FREE". The
model
is something like CDM300, prolly close. Seems to
me it was like $400.00
shipped.
www.crutchfield.com
Bill Davis 95
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 15:02:19 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...(Admin)
Please take this discussion offline.
The Team3S list is dedicated to technical messages and CD Changers are
considered "off topic".
Best regards
Mikael Akesson (for the
admins)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Davis <wjdavis@inlink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, June 07, 1999 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD
Changer...
I do not have the original message on this machine, Im at
work now.
The 6 disc changer is a pioneer, regardless of what it says on the
front.
For whoever is looking for one, go to crutchfield's web page, get
their
phone
number, and call them. The changer is old, so it won't be
listed on their
page.
These people really know what they are
doing.
I bought a 96 base model, that the changer had been removed from,
and got
a changer from crutchfield, all adapters you need come with it
"FREE". The
model
is something like CDM300, prolly close. Seems to me it
was like $400.00
shipped.
www.crutchfield.com
Bill Davis 95
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 07:25:45 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer...(Admin)
Hey Mikael, et all;
My
apologies as I influenced this thread. I thought an electronic "stock" 3S
component which is out of production, in short supply and
hard to get, was a
legit topic. Sorry.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 08:08:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Split Second MAF kit
Hi Everybody,
Just wondering
if anyone has experience with Split Second's MAF kit.
Seems to be very
similar to the one (forgot the name/make of it) that
was discontinued a while
back. Suppose to work better than a VPC. I
will be getting one with a set of
550's this week. Any input is
appreciated. Thanx.
www.splitsec.com
George
LA,
CA
basic upgrades +
13Gs
_________________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 17:26:51 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Split Second MAF kit
Hey George :)
I already spoke with
them somtimes ago and they said that the unit has never
been tested on a 3S.
The kit is available for the DSM cars and you'll maybe get
an universal kit.
Also they are way overpriced (as HKS is too for sure). As an
example their GM
3bar MAP sensor is $71 !!! I sell it locally for $58 and in the
US it is even
less expensive.
If you get it make sure you have an EGT, A/F and IDC
meter installed for proper
tuning.
Let us know how it works and try to
push down the price ;-)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT ...
just ordered the Water Injection (blub-blubber)
> Just
wondering if anyone has experience with Split Second's MAF kit.
> Seems to
be very similar to the one (forgot the name/make of it) that
> was
discontinued a while back. Suppose to work better than a VPC. I
> will be
getting one with a set of 550's this week. Any input is
> appreciated.
Thanx.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 10:33:51 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Another Hood Scoop Update !!!
> 1. Intake temp seems to average 15
degrees higher than outside temp.
> 2. Firewall temp. averages 30 degrees
higher than outside temp.
> 3. Removing hood bumps did NOTHING to drop
temperatures in either
> location.
> 4. When driving to work
(20 minutes with two stop signs averaging 60mph)
> The intake temp. never
went higher than outside temp, but the
> firewall temp
> did rise
slightly. This seems to point to heat soak as the major culprit
>
when in traffic.
I think I'd be more interested in learning what the
temperatures are after
the intercoolers more than the intake
temperatures. If having the hood
bumps off or modified only swings the
intake temps 15-40 degrees cooler,
then by the time the air makes its way to
the throttle body there probably
isn't much difference at all. Intake
temp isn't going to matter nearly as
much as the temperature of the air
entering the throttle body since the
turbos and intercoolers both vary the
final air temperature.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 11:36:01 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Auto A/C in a base GT
Hey guys.
For awhile
now I've been contemplating getting that nice lookin Auto
A/C unit found in
the SL's and VR-4's into my base GT. Anyone with a
mechanical/electrical
manual know if it's possible?
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 10:49:49 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Radar question (& Admin Rant...)
I never thought of using a
boater's depth finder signal to confuse
radar. It makes great sense
that this could work, for those of us
with an extra $300 marine tech-toy
'floating' around... Now, any of
us who wish to discuss this topic
should email privately so as not to
clutter the list with comments about a
subject that is probably only
of interest to a few...
Which brings us
to your note after your sig, "VR-4 (which the admin
says I can't talk
about)". (And to correct you, what we said was that
you can't "chat"
about it.) We admin are just owners like the rest of
you, except in the
fact that some of us volunteer about an hour a day
of our time trying to keep
the list running like we ALL would like it
to run. Your comment is a
public criticism, so I'll honor it with a
public response.
Let us
reiterate what this list is about: "Technical Discussions
about the
Stealth & 3000GT". Period. We have suggested (on the
rules
page, if you wish to reread it) that the test for a valid post to
the
list is whether or not that post is of interest to many of
us...
Alerting us to the fact that you did something "stupid,
stupid,
stupid" (your words about
trading in your VR-4) and soliciting our
help or input IS a legal
topic, as will be the resolution of your problem,
whenever that
happens...; on the other hand, play by play of what you're
going
through IS NOT of interest to most of list, and therefore should
be
taken private. Posing a question to the list about a 'remote'
subject
such as CD changer mods or radar, or (gulp) windshield ID kits or
neon
chassis lights should be considered 'marginally' legal, but other
than
answering with an address of a relevant resource, ensuing
discussions
should be done privately, because most of us just don't want to
hear
about it.
"Team 3S" was formed by (and for) busy professionals
who want to share
ONLY technical information about our cars. For chat,
there are other
lists, ICQ, and private email. If anyone takes issue
with our rules
(which we've all agreed to when we subscribed...), it would be
more
appropriate to bring it up to the admin privately, than shooting
"jab"
comments at us in your posts...
That just makes us
"testy".
End of rant...
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
-
-----Original Message-----From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
|>>It
mentioned that X band is used for burglar alarms and garage
door
|openers...if a remote garage door opener, or the circuitry
thereof,
were
|activated in the direct presence of a radar gun, would it
confuse the
radar
|gun, giving it a false reading?<<
|
|Yes,
it can.. But a more effective tool is a depth finder for a boat
with
|the
transducer mounted in the grill.. Not legal as far as FCC
is
concerned,
|but hey, never know when ya might need it for a deep puddle
:)
|
|Regards,
|Roger
|94 VR-4 (that the admin says I can't talk
about)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 11:51:29 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Hood Scoop Update !!!
Kevin:
Great ob's BTW.
Here's mine. Without a directed air flow, removal of
the strut blisters
is useless. I think with directed in and out it will
be
huge.
What do you think? I think you're headed someowhere else
now. I could
be all wrong, BTW.
Thanks,
SJ
On Sun,
6 Jun 1999 18:30:00 -0400 "Kevin Schappell"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>
writes:
>Well after a weekend of driving around with the hood bumps on and
off
>...
>here is what I have observed. Outside temps ranged from
60 degrees F
>to 90
>degrees F.
>
>1. Intake temp seems
to average 15 degrees higher than outside temp.
>2. Firewall temp.
averages 30 degrees higher than outside temp.
>3. Removing hood bumps did
NOTHING to drop temperatures in either
>location.
>4. When
driving to work (20 minutes with two stop signs averaging
>60mph)
>The intake temp. never went higher than outside temp, but
the firewall
>temp
>did rise slightly. This seems to point to
heat soak as the major
>culprit
>when in traffic.
>
>I
think that removing the hood bumps some how disrupts the normal flow
>of
>air through the engine compartment and does not improve the
cooling.
>Also I
>wonder if all the guys buying the
aftermarket filters are really doing
>any
>good since you would be
sucking in hotter engine air by not using the
>stock
>air box and
scoop? I am thinking that a combination of a K&N filter
>(stock
>size) and maybe a mod to the front end to get more air in
would be the
>best
>setup? Maybe improve on the snorkel
design? Has anyone investigated
>opening up the area behind the
headlight bucket? All comments are
>welcome,
>I am
really puzzled that taking the bumps off did not improve
>anything.
>
>
>
>
>Kevin
Schappell
>Auto Answers
>http://www.pacarsearch.com
>Pennsylvania's
newest auto classifieds site.
>Free ads, chat, links and research
tools.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 13:22:57 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake service
I've changed pads and rotors on my car so many
times I've scratched the
calipers and housings to death.
This last
time, I used my gigantic channel locks (as usual) to push the
calipers back
in, and realized that I am scarring up the calipers and
caliper housing
something awful. (Good thing I haven't gotten Brad's Big
Red Porsche calipers
yet.)
Problem is, when trying to push four calipers back, if you push one
in,
another comes out. One of the rubber boots came off and a caliper
leaked
brake fluid when it came out too far. Then, if you don't squeeze
absolutely
squarely on the caliper, it binds up and refuses to depress. Ya
keep at
this over and over until all four are fully depressed (me too, by
that
time), so the new pads will fit in. For me, this is like a 20-minute job
on
each caliper. The wizards down at the brake shop do it in 5 minutes,
tops.
Squeeze, squeeze, and -- zap! -- they are all in.
I thought
about releasing pressure with the brake bleeder valve, but I've
never seen
anyone resort to this. Besides, then I'd have to find somebody
to help
me bleed the brakes when the job is all over.
The Old Poop brake shop
knows how to change pads and rotors, but obviously
I'm not doing it quite
right.
Any advice on how to deal with recalitrant calipers would
be greatly
appreciated.
Rich/old poop/Somebody stop
me!
p.s.: I made up new scoops to gather up air (rectangular, 1 x 8
in.) from
under the front valence, sealed up all the hose connections, and
I
fabricated a bracket to hold the air hose in place at the rotor (and
keep
it away from the half shaft boot). This should provide some good forced
air
cooling next time out. And now that little problem has been solved, I
hope
to install a water injection system in the air duct.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 13:46:18 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake service
Two suggestions:
first and most obvious, leave
the calipers over the 3 rotors you're not
working on. That way they can't
push out.
second, they make a tool for this. it looks something
like |---|--{
where the |'s are plates, the ----- is a screw, and the {
is a handle. You
would need 4 if you wanted to do all 4 at once. You just put
it inside the
caliper and turn the screw to push the piston(s) back in. It
works real
slick, my grandparents have one at their shop (old farmers have
lots of cool
tools). You could probably make them pretty easily. Get an old
set of pads,
drill a hole through one, and weld a nut over the hole. get a
long bolt, and
grind a < on the end. use a drill to put a < in the
other pad (so the bolt
can't slide around). Should be pretty cheap and easy
to make.
Later
Todd
Merritt wrote:
> Any advice on how
to deal with recalitrant calipers would be greatly
> appreciated.
-
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:04:24 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
At 01:46 PM 6/7/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Two
suggestions:
>first and most obvious, leave the calipers over the 3 rotors
you're not
>working on. That way they can't push out.
Ooops. I only
work on one caliper housing at a time. I'm having trouble
with the four
individual PISTONS in each caliper. Sorry for the
confusion.
>
>second, they make a tool for this. it looks something
like |---|--{
>where the |'s are plates, the ----- is a screw, and
the { is a handle. You
>would need 4 if you wanted to do all 4 at once.
You just put it inside the
>caliper and turn the screw to push the
piston(s) back in. It works real
>slick, my grandparents have one at their
shop (old farmers have lots of cool
>tools). You could probably make them
pretty easily. Get an old set of pads,
>drill a hole through one, and weld
a nut over the hole. get a long bolt, and
>grind a < on the end. use a
drill to put a < in the other pad (so the bolt
>can't slide around).
Should be pretty cheap and easy to make.
Sounds neat, but I don't quite
grasp the concept.
What's it pushing against? The other side of the
housing?
Or is it pushing all four pistons in at the same time?
come
back.
Rich/old poop/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 15:09:56 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake service
Merrit,
Get a couple of 10-12" C clamps that is how
most shade tree mechanics do
it.
Regards,
Lynn
Merritt
wrote:
> The Old Poop brake shop knows how to change pads and rotors, but
obviously
> I'm not doing it quite right.
>
> Any advice on
how to deal with recalitrant calipers would be greatly
>
appreciated.
>
> Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:09:40 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake service
Todd:
>second, they make a tool for this.
it looks something like |---|--{
>where the |'s are plates, the
----- is a screw, and the { is a handle.
>You
>would need 4 if you
wanted to do all 4 at once. You just put it inside
>the
>caliper
and turn the screw to push the piston(s) back in. It works
>real
>slick, my grandparents have one at their shop
Would
you know where they got this one? I tried to purchase the Mitsu
tool
and was turned
down.
Thanks,
SJ
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 13:18:29 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: NGK
bcpr7es-11
Is there any one with contact for these plugs. Pep boys said
NGK stopped
producing these at the time and my shipment was cancelled :(
I
need them quick since these hotter bcpr6 need to go since they are
old.
Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:19:59 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
>Get a couple of 10-12" C clamps that is how
most shade tree mechanics do
>it.
Thanks. Questions:
One clamp
per piston? If so, how do you keep the other side from coming out?
Or one
clamp per side? If so, do you use an old pad to apply
pressure?
>
Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:24:28 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake service
OK, here's some more crude
artwork
| |
|O| |O|
| |--|----{
|O| |O|
| |
The lines of 5 |'s
would be the caliper
the 4 O's would be the pistons
the lines of 3 |'s
would be the old pads
- -------{ is the bolt
The spreader would go
inside the caliper and push against all the pistons at
once. I haven't worked
on my VR-4's brakes yet, but on my Mercury there was
a cutout in the middle
of the caliper. This is where the blot stuck out. If
there isn't anywhere for
the bolt to stick out you would have to find some
other way to pry the pads
apart. That way you have pressure on all 4 at
once, and you don't have to
press on the caliper itself.
- ------
from another email.
>
ould you know where they got this one? I tried to purchase the
Mitsu
> tool and was turned down.
>
They probably got it at
Napa, or a John Deere dealer.
Merritt wrote:
>
> Sounds
neat, but I don't quite grasp the concept.
> What's it pushing against?
The other side of the housing?
> Or is it pushing all four pistons in at
the same time?
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:35:43 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
- ------{ is the bolt
>
>The
spreader would go inside the caliper and push against all the pistons
at
>once. I haven't worked on my VR-4's brakes yet, but on my Mercury
there was
>a cutout in the middle of the caliper. This is where the blot
stuck out.
Nope. No cutout.
If
>there isn't anywhere for
the bolt to stick out you would have to find some
>other way to pry the
pads apart. That way you have pressure on all 4 at
>once, and you don't
have to press on the caliper itself.
I get the idea now. Thanks. I'll
have to work on it.
We have about 1.5 inch or so to work with -- the width of
the rotor and
pads -- to get a spreader in when the old pads come out. Maybe
a miniature
scissors jack...
Rich/old poop/somebody stop
me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 12:53:34 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Hood Scoop Update !!!
I tried a home-made "ram air"
setup; a "Y" made from two 4" Teflon
flex tubes (from robot arms) from just
behind the foglights to a box
around the K&N. I couldn't feel any
difference with that setup
either, and besides, it looked just awful, so I
removed it. My guess
is that the "envelope" of air around the rounded
front end, and the
disruption of airflow caused by the foglights themselves
(I didn't
remove them) both contribute to the ineffectiveness of such
efforts.
Even at 50+ mph speeds (probably the minimum for any ram-air to
work),
I couldn't tell the difference. Perhaps if the foglights were
removed
and 6"+ long tubes were placed in the holes (extending out front,
past
the "envelope"), more air would be directed at the K&N, but
I
certainly wouldn't want my car looking like that. My engineer's
'gut
feeling' is that we should be looking at something
else...
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Kevin
Schappell
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>
-
------------snip----------
|air box and scoop? I am thinking that a
combination of a K&N filter
(stock
|size) and maybe a mod to the front
end to get more air in would be
the best
|setup? Maybe improve on
the snorkel design? Has anyone investigated
|opening up the area behind
the headlight bucket? All comments are
welcome,
|I am really
puzzled that taking the bumps off did not
improve
anything.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 16:01:12 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
The tool you guys are looking for is available
at any automotive store like Pepboys or
Parts America and such. Basically
it's a long flat plate that is threaded and a long
bolt with a handle or a
socket on the end. As you turn the handle or the socket the
plate is pushed
againest the caliper. The plate is big enough to get lodged where the
pad
would go on the caliper. The other end is rounded off and it pushes
against the
piston. By turning the handle the plate is wedged against the
caliper and the bolt is
extended against the piston which pushes it back. You
will need to alternate pistons.But
you don't really want to push one piston
all the way back and then the other since I
heard this damages the piston.
But opinions may vary. I think the tool is under 10
bucks. I would suggest
getting the socketed one if you could find it. Since it becomes
pretty hard
to loosen the handle at times.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 15:21:36 -0500
From: "Dy, Leonard" <DyL@ctt.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Split
Second MAF kit
Roger Gerl wrote:
I already spoke with them somtimes
ago and they said that the unit has never
been tested on a
3S.
Apparently, they now have a package made specifically for
3S.
From: GT PRO [thegtalley@email.msn.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, June 02, 1999 1:24 PM
The original design is produced by Split
Second, www.splitsec.com
<http://www.splitsec.com> and is the
BEST unit on the market for fuel
control. You will get PERFECT driveability,
and the unit is very easy to
tune. The AFC does fuel control based on RPM,
and does not take into account
throttle position, baro-pressure, temp, and
loading. The ARC-2GP DOES! and
this is why it is FAR superior to anything
else on the market. Check out the
site, it has not been updated to reflect
the new ARC-2GP kit yet but it will
in the next week. The unit will also
allow the use of injectors sizing from
stock to 720cc's without changing
chips, and will yield perfect results
everytime, no matter who's injector you
run. The price is $949.00 for the
entire kit, which includes the ARC-2, the
ARM-1 A/F meter, the 83mm "Big
Bore" MAF meter, the MAF harness, K&N Mega
filter, K&N adapter, and
complete install instructions for the
3000GT.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 8 Jun 1999 08:15:10 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Radar question
> Nice unit, logic mode eliminates the
majority of falses.
Be careful here... The ValentineOne can be
"desensitized"
when around other radar detectors. This is caused by
many
other brands leaking a little in the Ka band, while it is
not enough
to set off the V1, the V1's range in this band
will pretty much be
non-existent.
It is an all around good unit, just be aware if you
are
racing somebody who also has a detector as theirs will
be causing a
reduction in the range of yours. This is
also true for some cellular
sites and newer alarms.
My brother and I have tested this both in the
"wild" and
in a controlled environment. It should also be noted
that
the X band detection on the V1 can be disabled completely
for those
countries that no longer uses this band for law
enforcement (thus making this
a very quiet unit).
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 16:38:40 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Another Hood Scoop Update !!!
If you take your blister's off
you will see a raised area in the back of
the scoop that will deflect
on-coming air down into the engine compartment
so I don't think there was a
problem of not deflecting air down. I think
that the natural airflow
through the front of the car was alot stronger and
did not allow any of the
air to come in. However it might have allowed air
to escape. But
if it did that, I would think that the underhood temp would
have dropped and
it did not. I have been at work too long today so I am
going
home. I will try to write some more thoughts down this evening when
I
get home.
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: S J Cowan [SMTP:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent:
Monday, June 07, 1999 12:51 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Another Hood Scoop Update !!!
Kevin:
Great ob's
BTW. Here's mine. Without a directed air flow, removal of
the
strut blisters is useless. I think with directed in and out it will
be
huge.
What do you think? I think you're headed someowhere else
now. I could
be all wrong, BTW.
Thanks,
SJ
On Sun,
6 Jun 1999 18:30:00 -0400 "Kevin Schappell"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>
writes:
>Well after a weekend of driving around with the hood bumps on and
off
>...
>here is what I have observed. Outside temps ranged from 60
degrees F
>to 90
>degrees F.
>
>1. Intake temp seems to
average 15 degrees higher than outside temp.
>2. Firewall temp. averages
30 degrees higher than outside temp.
>3. Removing hood bumps did NOTHING
to drop temperatures in either
>location.
>4. When driving to
work (20 minutes with two stop signs averaging
>60mph)
>The intake
temp. never went higher than outside temp, but the
firewall
>temp
>did rise slightly. This seems to point to heat
soak as the major
>culprit
>when in traffic.
>
>I think
that removing the hood bumps some how disrupts the normal
flow
>of
>air through the engine compartment and does not improve
the cooling.
>Also I
>wonder if all the guys buying the aftermarket
filters are really doing
>any
>good since you would be sucking in
hotter engine air by not using the
>stock
>air box and scoop?
I am thinking that a combination of a K&N filter
>(stock
>size)
and maybe a mod to the front end to get more air in would be
the
>best
>setup? Maybe improve on the snorkel design?
Has anyone investigated
>opening up the area behind the headlight
bucket? All comments are
>welcome,
>I am really puzzled
that taking the bumps off did not
improve
>anything.
>
>
>
>
>Kevin
Schappell
>Auto Answers
>http://www.pacarsearch.com
>Pennsylvania's
newest auto classifieds site.
>Free ads, chat, links and research
tools.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 15:22:36 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
At 04:01 PM 6/7/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The
tool you guys are looking for is available at any automotive store
like
Pepboys or
>Parts America and such.
Thanks. I'll go see if I can
find it.
Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:45:08 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK bcpr7es-11
Peter;
Trying calling NGK directly at
949-855-8278 and ask them if they still make
them and where to get
them.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
Is
there any one with contact for these plugs. Pep boys said NGK
stopped
producing these at the time and my shipment was cancelled :(
I
need them quick since these hotter bcpr6 need to go since they are
old.
Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:55:09 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NGK
bcpr7es-11
Thanx. Oh you missed it about 4 weeks ago the second test and
tune at bandi
I split my transfer case wide open :( I just replaced it this
weekend and
that's the last time the car will ever see the track except for
the import
shootout! Its actually real easy to replace thank goodness! But I
just cant
believe after yanking the bad one out how weak these cases really
are! Mabey
I'll go the brad badeel route and switch everything over to six
speed since
the cases are cast iron instead of aluminum.
92 3000 GTO
MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey Young [mailto:jefyoung@ix.netcom.com]
Sent:
Monday, June 07, 1999 2:45 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NGK bcpr7es-11
Peter;
Trying calling NGK directly
at 949-855-8278 and ask them if they still make
them and where to get
them.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
Is
there any one with contact for these plugs. Pep boys said NGK
stopped
producing these at the time and my shipment was cancelled :(
I
need them quick since these hotter bcpr6 need to go since they are
old.
Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:18:52 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake service
Subject: Team3S: Brake service
> I've changed
pads and rotors on my car so many times I've scratched the
> calipers and
housings to death.
>
> Problem is, when trying to push four
calipers back, if you push one in,
> another comes out. One of the rubber
boots came off and a caliper leaked
> brake fluid when it came out too
far.
=================================================================
There's
an outfit called millers tools who supposedly sells special tools such as our
timing belt
tensioner. Their number is 1-800-801-5420 you might give them a
call. If you find out anything
please post it, I have never called them for
information. The tool number from the manual is
mb990520.
Goos luck Jim berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:28:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fwd: [ZJ] Downstream O2 simulator
i thought it might be interesting if
anyone wanted to
beat the O2 sensors.
- --- Scott Mueller <scottmueller@compuserve.com>
wrote:
> Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 14:46:02 -0400
> From: Scott Mueller
<scottmueller@compuserve.com>
>
Subject: [ZJ] Downstream O2 simulator
> To: Blind.Copy.Receiver@compuserve.com
>
Reply-to: zj-list@moab.off-road.com
>
> Scott Mueller <scottmueller@compuserve.com>
writes:
>
> Wayne,
>
> >I've forgotten who was the
list member who came up
> with an invention to
> fool the engine
controller so that you can modify
> the exhaust of an OBDII
>
equipped vehicle. A buddy of mine has finally
> decided to modify his
vehicle
> and it's a 96 Ram 318. I'm sure he'll have the
same
> probs as a 96 or newer
> ZJ.
>
> >Was it you
Scott M?
>
> Yes indeed. Actually I can't take credit for
>
designing and producing the
> device, that goes to a friend of mine.
Casper's
> Electronics has now been
> making downstream O2
simulators (for testing or
> off-road use only) for
> several years
now. They have gone through extensive
> testing and several
>
revisions, and work on virtually any make or model
> OBDII ('96 and
up)
> vehicle. I am using one on my '98 ZJ 5.9 Limited,
> man you
should hear that
> thing with the stock exhaust and a test pipe!
>
Contact John @ Casper's
> Electronics (847-247-0484) or
> <mailto:caspers@wwa.com>, tell him I
sent
> you. Scott.
>
>
-
->END<------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Subscription changes:
> http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/jeeplists.htm
>
>
>
===
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 07 Jun 1999 19:57:14 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake service
OTC actually makes the tools which Mitsubishi
uses for the vehicle. They are subcontracted out to
OTC, and I think Miller
is the same company. But to buy these tools, you will pay a fortune for
the
most simple items. I would just stick to generic or big name items like
Snap on who make universal
items than buy OTC. Take for example, I bought the
rear differential bar. This is a just a Big 1"
thick bar with two holes cut
to fit 12 mm bolts so I can screw onto the rear diff to hold it
in
place while I take the self locking nut off. I paid something like $120
for a metal bar. Which I
could have made for like $5 . I could only recommend
buying the speciality items like maybe the
tensioner socket. But for the most
part you don't need to waste the money on these parts.
>
Subject: Team3S: Brake service
>
>
>
> There's an outfit
called millers tools who supposedly sells special tools such as our timing
belt
> tensioner. Their number is 1-800-801-5420 you might give them a
call. If you find out anything
> please post it/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #200
****************************
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