--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #196
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Thursday, June 3
1999 Volume 01 : Number
196
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:48:45 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Strange Spool-down noise
Since the transmission is somewhat new and under
warranty, give it a few
thousand miles to wear in and reasses. This
does sound like normal gear
whine. It will likely lessen over time in
the most commonly used gears. At
some point in the future before the
12mo/12000mi warranty expires you can
choose to get more opinions and go from
there.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Greetings folks,
> I had
to get my tranny replaced under warranty (yay!
> that's the
second
> tranny for me -
does the car become a lemon after _three_
tranny
> replacements?)
and I'm not quite satisfied with this one as
well.
>
> When I'm
in gear, and when I take the foot off the gas
> pedal, I hear
a
> whining noise similar
to that of an airplane turbine jet
> engine
spool
> down (tho not
nearly that loud, but the same tone;
> actually I have
to
> turn off the A/C and
the radio to hear it distinctly.)
> When I
depress
> the clutch pedal
or shift to neutral, this sounds goes away.
The
> sound is prominent
in the 1500 to 2000 rpm ranges, but I
> can hear
it
> from 3000 down to
1000. The technician at the dealer
> claims that
he
> talked with the
Mitsubishi tech. line and was apparently
> informed
that
> this noise was
normal. But, it doesn't sound normal to
> me, given
the
> circumstances of its
occurance.
>
> BTW,
I also had the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out
> bearing
replaced
> and now the
clutch pedal is not nearly as stiff as it
> used to be,
and
> I'm able to
downshift with little to no 'jerkiness.'
>
>
> -sankar
>
'97 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 18:10:19 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Strange Spool-down noise
Unfortunately Sankar, 3 strikes in
Mitsu's ballgame just means your out(of a car while being repaired &
$2000)not them. As long as you have a warranty, use it while you
can. If not happy, keep going back & making phone calls to Mitsu - let
them get the "BIG PICTURE" - cause they can't see the forrest for the
trees.
>> I had to get my tranny replaced under warranty
(yay!
>> that's the second tranny for me - does the car become a lemon
after _three_ tranny replacements?) and I'm not quite satisfied with this one as
well.
>> -sankar
>> '97 VR4
HotBot - Search
smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:40:24 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
icq...????
My ICQ Number is 12006697Id anyone ever wants to
chat
Edwin 98 3000GT SL
- -----Original Message-----
From: Busta
<Busta@hfx.andara.com>
To: stealth@starnet.net <stealth@starnet.net>
Date:
Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: icq...????
>Woo
Hoo! :) another ICQ user, finally live chat! :) For
anyone
>interested... 6955201 is my UIN
:)
>
>Andrew
>
>aaron decker wrote:
>
>>
I am new to icq,is there any chat channels on icq or anyone
>> that
wanna talk cars while i am bored out of my mind at work?
>>
>>
hehehe, ok thanks,
>> my number is
40295115
>>
>> Aaron
>> The bored person stuck in his
office with only a computer
>>
>>
_______________________________________________________________
>> Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 20:45:24 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
brakes
Brad Bedell wrote ---
> Any reason for wilwood
calipers?
>
> Neither caliper will "bolt on" some form of
adapter bracket will have to be
> made.
>
> I would do the
Porsche 993 Calipers personally. They are far better quality
> than
any wilwood caliper on the market (for a street driven
car).
=======================================================================
Just
got to looking at aftermarket rotors --- was impressed some of the NASCAR
short track stuff.
Martinsville -- 500 laps -- 1000 brake cycles [ cherry red
twice per lap ]. I started looking at
what
kind of stuff the circle track
guys use and one of them is Wilwood. I got their racebrake catalog
and
started looking through it. High end is $ 3700 per caliper with stuff down to
$200. One of the
road race calipers [ $370 ] is a six piston differential
bore unit, with a 6" pad that "looks" like
it
should stop a tank. In
addition they have fluid recirculation hardware.
I've got 94 chrome 17"
wheels with an inside diameter of 15 1/2", which allow me to use the GN
III
caliper with a 13" rotor [ outside radius of caliper is 7.19" ].With
rotors and top hat I've got
$1500 tied
up.
For $2600 I get the
Brembo big brake set up and I think you've got $1500 a setup [ I don't know
if
your
package includes rotors]. I will look further at the Brembo and
Porsche unit if I can get some tech
info,
and I'd be happy to hear what
you've got to say. I'm a relative newby at brake systems but
I'm
willing
to learn.
Jim berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:50:08 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S: If
Anyone missed my ICQ number Before
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format.
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My ICQ number is 12006697
Message me to chat about
our cars, I would love the input on my own
Edwin
'98 Pearl White
3000GT SL
2 JL 12" W3's
MTX Thunder 2150 Amp
K&N Air Filter
Charger
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My ICQ
number is =
12006697</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Message me to chat about our cars, I =
would
love=20
the input on my own</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Edwin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'98 Pearl White 3000GT SL<BR>2 JL
=
12"=20
W3's<BR>MTX Thunder 2150 Amp<BR>K&N
Air
Filter=20
Charger</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 01:26:28 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fun time at MIR's Import Internationals (pretty long)...
I almost
decided not to go just because it was supposed to be around 90 degrees
both
days. I still hadn't run my car at a 1/4 mile track since the
boost controller was put
in, and the idea of watching other people run their
cars while I was standing in the sun
wasn't very appealing. Me and my
good friend Billy decided to go anyway, what the
hell. We opted not to
take Billy's mildly modified 95 Talon TSI AWD as he didn't want
to run his
car. It was $20 to get in for both days, and the lady at the booth
didn't
have much trouble getting the other $10 to race out of me even though
I wanted to size
up the competition a little first. I really wasn't
planning on competing, but I didn't
wanna get laughed off the track
either.
There ended up only being 9 or 10 cars trying to qualify for
the quick 8 in the Power
6 class. Mike Mahaffey was there, but he
didn't run. He did come with Brad Daley and
his 10.83 second Supra to
the dismay of the few that knew of Brad. There was 1 other
Supra, 3 300
ZXs, an RX7, a Maxima, a Probe, and me. One of the RX7s was pretty
quick,
he ran a 12.3 and proceeded to talk trash about how heavy Supras
were. I think he shut
up after Brad ran 11.00 at 127 in the heat, in
fact, the RX7 qualified 2nd and didn't
even show for the eliminations the
next day. I was running my Weapon-R air filter, the
Apexi AVC-R boost
controller set to 1 atmosphere, Accel wires, NGK platinums gapped at
.035,
and all three cats gutted. I've given up on speed shifting, but I was
dumping the
clutch on most runs, I just couldn't slip it good enough.
The clutch wasn't holding up
at all, it slipped on almost every launch.
I ended up edging ahead of a Supra that
qualified with 13.17. I
qualified 3rd at 13.16 with a clutch slipping 1.86 60' time, I
actually had
to ease up on the gas a tad to get the clutch to bite. Needless to say
I
was a little surprised after not coming to compete, also a little
disappointed in the
300s. How can a twin turbo 3 liter be so
slow?
There were 2 more rounds of qualifications on the second
day. I decided to take out
the passenger seat and had wanted to unbolt
the whole exhaust system, it's gotta be
heavy but I settled for unbolting the
downpipe and gutted main cat. I had also wanted
to do something with
the driver's seat but I didn't have many options there, I didn't
get a chance
to see if maybe my Mother's non power Eclipse seat would fit. Before I
go
any further, I gotta tell ya how loud the exhaust is when it comes out at
the precats.
I was at my friend's house about an 1/8th of a mile from mine,
my wife could hear it
when we started the car at 12:30 am. When it
settled down to an idle it wasn't too bad,
but ANY kind of load at 1000 RPMs
or higher was almost unbearable. It shook on startup
and sounded almost
like a cammed v8. We took it for a spin and my friend could hear
it
clear as day when we goosed it over a mile away. It was hard for me
to say whether it
was noticeable quicker or it was just the fact that it
sounded like a screaming semi on
steroids, turbo whine and all.
We
got the track around 10:15 a little better prepared with ice, drinks, and
a
canopy. I even found shade under a tree where I parked my car between
runs. Without
even cooling down I ran 3 times back to back. I
managed a slightly better 13.07. It
was still pump gas, but at least I
wasn't running over half a tank like the previous
day. I let it cool a
bit and put a couple gallons of 111 unleaded in. I ended
up
staging next to another Supra that showed up for qualifications, and
it was a good
race. He ran a 12.830, I ran a 12.834, but the clocks
showed the same time. The Supra
from the previous day ended up running
a 12.80 and I got bumped to 4th as the RX7 didn't
show. Brad's Supra
was running a little rough, but he still managed an 11.41 on the
second
day.
It ended up benefiting me in 4th spot as I ran against the number
8 qualifier in the
first round of eliminations. The clutch had been
holding up all day, I was coming out
of the hole at 7k RPMs, rear squatting,
front lifting, spinning all four tires :) After
running a couple 12.8s,
the announcers were finally giving the Mitsu it's due respect.
The previous
day it'd been Supra this, Supra that, blah blah blah. I staged next to
the
8th qualifying 300 in the first round and came screaming out of the hole
to a 1.786 60',
8.25 1/8th, and crossed the line at 12.802 at 107.87. I
didn't know until watching my
friend's recording that the announcer had
finally given the car a little respect saying
it was a fast street car, and
ran like a bat outta hell :P I got knocked out of the
second round of
eliminations by a 300z that hadn't run below 13.12 all day. He had
a
near perfect reaction time of .501 and ran 13.15 to my 12.899, but he
crossed the line
.113 seconds ahead of me. He was the better driver no
doubt, but I was still a little
disappointed. The 300 got real lucky
and took first as Brad's Supra broke after
stumbling halfway down the track,
last I heard they thought it was a broken piston and
they were going home to
get the truck and trailer as it'd been driven to the track.
Considering the mods and the heat I thought I ran pretty well. I was
probably also
the least modified car out of the bunch. I'd been hoping
for a 12.75 in that heat and I
wasn't too far off. Maybe I can run near
a 12.5 on a cool day. I was kinda
disappointed that more 3000s or
Stealths didn't show up, my car's nothing compared to a
lot of cars in the
area. But heck, I had a good time and probably wouldn't have
stayed
around that long just to watch other cars run.
talk to ya
later,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 01:40:47 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fun time at MIR's Import Internationals (pretty long)...
Now that was a
great post, Jason!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 02:45:07 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fun time at MIR's Import Internationals (small
followup)...
This event was at Budd's Creek Maryland, MIR.
I'll try to get more detail about the
other cars' times, hopefully MIR will
post the results and pictures on their page
http://www.mirdrag.com . It's really
close to sea level, and it was somewhere in the
neighborhood of 90
degrees. Hopefully I'll be able to get the footage converted to AVI
and
post it somewhere. There was also someone from Super Street taking
pictures, who
knows...
Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:10:33 +1000
From: "Bryan G Langton" <blangtonb@bigpond.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Urgent Brake Booster Question
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I have a 1995 VR4. I had to stomp on the brakes
for the first time =
since i bought the car. As soon as i did i heard a
"Bang" similar to the =
noise you get when the ABS comes in...But...NO the
bang was the brake =
master cylinder / resovouir parting company from the
housing of the =
boost unit one of the bolts snapped.
Is anybody aware of
this happening to them ??? has there been a Factory =
recall re the brake
booster unit, ??
Any advice / help would be great. also how hard is it to
remove the =
booster unit,
Bryan 95 TTVR4. Australia=20
-
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text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>I have a 1995 VR4. I had to stomp
on the brakes for the first =
time=20
since i bought the car. As soon as i
did i heard a "Bang" similar to the =
noise=20
you get when the ABS comes
in...But...NO the bang was the brake master =
cylinder=20
/ resovouir
parting company from the housing of the boost unit one of =
the
bolts=20
snapped.</DIV>
<DIV>Is anybody aware of this
happening to them ??? has there been a =
Factory=20
recall re the brake
booster unit,
??</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Any advice /
help would be great. also how hard is it to remove the
=
booster=20
unit,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Bryan
95 TTVR4.
Australia </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:17:09 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Strange Spool-down noise
Thanks for all the advice folks! I guess
I'll play the wait-and-see game, but
when I visit the service department I'm
gonna ask them to give it to me in
writing that the whining spool-down noise
is 'normal.'
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Indications
of what humans would call a wild party.
-- Data, "The
Naked Now", stardate
41209.2
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:15:53 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: brakes
Wilwood makes a good caliper.
I personally
feel that it wasn't designed for daily use on a street car.
Lack of stainless
hardware, no dust boots on the pistons etc..
However for your caliper, it
sounds like a lower profile caliper than the
Brembo/(porsche) unit than I am
using. The pad swept area seems larger
also.
My kit includes
rotors, however with David Skultety's experience with
breaking a rotor, I am
scared of selling any more as a "kit" I may just
offer the brackets and
let anyone who wants build the lines and buy the
parts.
>
Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Jim Berry
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:45 PM
To: team
3si
Subject: Team3S: Re: brakes
Brad Bedell wrote
---
> Any reason for wilwood calipers?
>
> Neither
caliper will "bolt on" some form of adapter bracket will have
to
be
> made.
>
> I would do the Porsche 993 Calipers
personally. They are far better
quality
> than any wilwood
caliper on the market (for a street driven
car).
=======================================================================
Just
got to looking at aftermarket rotors --- was impressed some of
the
NASCAR short track stuff.
Martinsville -- 500 laps -- 1000 brake
cycles [ cherry red twice per lap ].
I started looking at
what
kind of
stuff the circle track guys use and one of them is Wilwood. I got
their
racebrake catalog
and started looking through it. High end is $ 3700 per
caliper with stuff
down to $200. One of the
road race calipers [ $370 ] is
a six piston differential bore unit, with a
6" pad that "looks"
like
it
should stop a tank. In addition they have fluid recirculation
hardware.
I've got 94 chrome 17" wheels with an inside diameter of 15
1/2", which
allow me to use the GN III
caliper with a 13" rotor [ outside
radius of caliper is 7.19" ].With rotors
and top hat I've got
$1500
tied
up.
For $2600 I get the Brembo big brake set up and I think
you've got $1500 a
setup [ I don't know if
your
package includes
rotors]. I will look further at the Brembo and Porsche unit
if I can get some
tech
info,
and I'd be happy to hear what you've got to say. I'm a relative
newby at
brake systems but I'm
willing
to learn.
Jim berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:45:46 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: UPDATE
on Transmission & dealer experience! (Very Long Post)
Hi
all,
I apologize about this long post but I thought it would benefit us
all. If you recall, I had posted the following message on 5/15/99 re:
my
experience with my 2nd Getrag transmission and Mitsubishi and the fact
that I
was "Blackballed/Blacklisted" with Mitsubishi : I have copied
and pasted
that original post : Here it
is:
>> It's great to be back on a 3Si mailing
list! Unfortunately, I am the
one who has recently experienced a
Voided/Nulled warranty on my transmission
(some of you already are aware of
my situation - Thank you for your
support!). To make a real long
story short (Believe it or not), I was
DENIED a new transmission by
Mitsubishi and got "Black listed" due to my
GReddy aftermarket part. I
know! Why didn't I take the aftermarket part OUT
before I turned my
car in? Well, they already saw my car and approved it
even with my
aftermarket GReddy part in it & scheduled an appointment to get
the job
done under warranty! But, unfortunately the District manager was on
the premises on the day that I brought the car in for the tranny. They
page
me within 45 minutes and stated, "Your car has been altered by an
after-market part; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your
VR4. I
did not know that about your car when you came to us last
week"; Yeah
right!? They physically SAW the car! This
Service manager stated to me that
he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
system that my car was "altered &
modified". Meaning that no other
Mitsubishi dealership would honor any
warranty transmission. In other
words, he "black balled" (service manager's
own words) me!
I
am currently working on several options & ideas to pursue the
matter; I have all documentations needed to make a good case!
The thing is
that I had tranny problems before the mods were put on (thank
God, I have
documentations from the Mitsu. dealership that I tried to
confirm the
problems but they denied any "faults" in the tranny). I'll
try to keep you
all posted. If my plans work out, it will be
advantageous for all of us on
this list! But in the meantime, I have
to look into alternative plans &
ideas. <<
Well, I have a
mixture of emotions going on! Here I am on June 3,
1999 with perfectly
healthy transmission - So, I'm frickin' ecstatic!
MITSUBISHI
Misdiagnosed my VR4 transmission problem twice & "black listed"
me- So
I'm pretty P--- off at them! IT was NEVER the transmission! I
have
been stressed out and researching for several weeks for other options
of
getting my tranny running healthy again; Some of you have been very
supportive; Thank you! And now I am aware of 2 different companies
that have
REBUILT Getrag transmissions available! One company actually
provides a
LIFETIME warranty! Wow! MY problem was NEVER the
transmission! Even though
two Mitsubishi dealers were so confident in
telling me, "IT is definitely
your transmission!" Well these guys were
just plain old LAZY. They never
bothered to look into my shifter
linkage control area; so, I thought I
better look into it (since I was
having a difficult time thinking about the
$5,000 for a new
transmission!).
I had met GKS Racing at an IMPORT car show at Navy Pier
(Chicago)
this past Sunday and explained my transmission situation
out. Let me tell
you all, I have a NEW place to go to now for all my
Racing needs! I
explained to them that the dealer never looked
into the shifter linkage
control area and that would be the wisest place to
start! And sure enough!
We saw the problem right away! The
roll pin that is part of the whole
shifter linkage control area (right under
the blow-off valve area on the
transmission/transfer case area) was sticking
so far out that it was actually
hitting the rest of the linkage control
components! That caused my shifter
to PREVENT me from getting into 2nd
and sometimes 4th. gears. So we
re-aligned a few parts of the linkage
control area and secured the roll pin
in it's place. LET ME TELL YOU
ALL!! IT shifts like it's going through
BUTTER! I LOVE
IT!!!! Summer Drag Wars, here I come!
So please, my fellow 3Si
members/owners & friends; LOOK into the
shifter linkage control area
FIRST before you do anything with your
transmissions! I just couldn't
believe that my new transmission (from last
July of 1998) was acting up so
soon! It pays to do some research and get
some second opinions (in my
case more than 2 opinions, I had 2 Mitsubishi
dealers conclude that it was
the transmission! Could you believe that?); so I
pursued the matter on my
own. I remember most of us list members complained
about a notchy
shifter feel and possible lock out! Well, check that linkage
control
and save yourself about $5,000 (if you're out of warranty!) or get a
new
transmission (if under warranty) ;P Because Mitsubishi sure does NOT
know how to diagnose these problems and will assume that you need a new
transmission! Well, Good luck all; I hope I was of some help re: this
Historic Getrag transmission problem with our fabulous cars (I'm not saying
that all of our problems with our tranny's are resolved with the linkage
control adjustments, but it's worth the check - I guess I was fortunate
enough & hope that some of us other 3Si members will benefit from this
experience I had)
Call GKS Racing in Gurnee, IL (847)360-1818 for your
racing or
mechanical needs and tell them Ahmed sent ya! Tell them that
you're part of
the same mailing list team. They were professional,
experienced, polite,
patient & quite personable; I met Gary (the
president), Steve & Elvin;
they're all reliable and damn experienced
with Import and Domestic cars! I'd
like to acknowledge Steve ; he is
truly the one who helped me out! We must
have spent about an hour
talking at the Navy Pier show & 2 1/2 hours at their
shop re-adjusting
the linkage control area. And he saved me from getting an
unnecessary
new transmission!
GKS Racing specializes in engine work,
electrical, racing
modifications, Chassis Dyno service, Nitrous Systems,
Turbo/Super charging
Non-turbo vehicles & chassis engineering.
Located in Gurnee, IL
(847)360-1818
Sorry about the long
post!
Later,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4 - Summer Drag Wars! I am
Back! I FEEL THE NEED
FOR SSSSSS (the sound of my turbo flyin' past
ya!)SSSSSSSSPEED !! SSSSSSSSee
Ya at the Track!
GReddy Profec B,
GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i Blow-off valve, SPI motorsport
Boost gauge &
pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo DP, Borla exhaust, Eibach
springs
(not yet installed), KVR Cross drilled rotors
coming soon: New
NGK plugs re-gapped at .033 and magnecor wires?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:20:12 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: I was really stupid! Please help!
Call me crazy..
On Monday
May 31, I traded my 94 Mitsubishi VR-4 in on, of all things, a new
99 Dodge
Neon R/T. Almost immediately I had regrets,and within 24 hours I
requested
that the dealer *Please* allow me to return the car, and get my
trade back.
The Dealers response? No way. Pay me $8500 and that's the only
option. I
would have been more than willing to pay for the few miles I put
on the car,
and called it a "mistake"
Turns out there's no recourse to a sale in the
state of VA.
In the hopes of using public sentiment to sway the dealer,
I'm asking that
everyone please write a quick note to the dealer at : mcddodge@cfw.com ,
asking them to be
"fair" and reconsider. I figure that this would be
helpful, if only to sway
them in the favor of public sentiment.
This is not a hoax, I'm asking
that you please take a minute of your time to
help me recover my
baby!!
Thank you!!
Regards,
Roger Crawford
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:22:46 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Hey guys,
It's time for an oil change in my 3000GT (I'm hitting 6 mos w/o an
oil
change, and just below 5000 miles) and I was wondering what
particular oil
filter you guys use. Also, I'm getting in some MT90 and
plan on putting that
in after I do my oil change. Could anyone fill me
in on where the fill is for
the transmission and where the drain bolt(s)
are? I assume it's in the
owner's manual.. however I haven't found mine
yet... thanks
-
--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:34:05 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: spark
plugs
Need help, I was getting the NGK bcpr7es-11's from pep boys well I
had
ordered a set of 12 for this summer and they just called saying my order
is
cancelled because the maker no longer makes these :(
Who knows of
anyone else who sells these and if this statement is indeed
true??? They have
already refunded my $34. Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of
Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
- -----Original
Message-----
From: J. Stephen Gula [mailto:loco3kgt@widomaker.com]
Sent:
Thursday, June 03, 1999 12:23 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Hey
guys,
It's time for an oil change in my 3000GT (I'm
hitting 6 mos w/o an
oil change, and just below 5000 miles) and I was
wondering what
particular oil filter you guys use. Also, I'm getting in some
MT90 and
plan on putting that in after I do my oil change. Could anyone fill
me
in on where the fill is for the transmission and where the drain
bolt(s)
are? I assume it's in the owner's manual.. however I haven't found
mine
yet... thanks
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 13:35:40 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I was really stupid! Please help!
At 02:20 PM 6/3/99 -0400,
you wrote:
>Call me crazy..
>On Monday May 31, I traded my 94
Mitsubishi VR-4 in on, of all things, a new
>99 Dodge Neon R/T. Almost
immediately I had regrets,and within 24 hours I
>requested that the dealer
*Please* allow me to return the car, and get my
>trade back. The Dealers
response? No way.
Go see a lawyer. Immediately. In Iowa, we have 3 days
to change our minds.
Rich/old poop/married to one
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:24:35 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I was really stupid! Please help!
You should ALWAYS have a
few days to take the car back... They are
filling you will a buncg of CRAP -
GO GET IT BACK NOW.
On Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:20:12 -0400 Roger
Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
writes:
>
Call me crazy..
> On Monday May 31, I traded my 94 Mitsubishi VR-4 in on,
of all
> things, a new
> 99 Dodge Neon R/T. Almost immediately I
had regrets,and within 24
> hours I
> requested that the dealer
*Please* allow me to return the car, and
> get my
> trade back. The
Dealers response? No way. Pay me $8500 and that's
> the only
>
option. I would have been more than willing to pay for the few miles
> I
put
> on the car, and called it a "mistake"
>
> Turns out
there's no recourse to a sale in the state of VA.
>
> In the hopes
of using public sentiment to sway the dealer, I'm
> asking that
>
everyone please write a quick note to the dealer at :
> mcddodge@cfw.com ,
> asking them to be
"fair" and reconsider. I figure that this would be
> helpful, if only to
sway them in the favor of public sentiment.
>
> This is not a
hoax, I'm asking that you please take a minute of your
> time to
>
help me recover my baby!!
>
> Thank you!!
>
>
Regards,
> Roger Crawford
>
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:19:53 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Steve:
>Hey
guys,
> It's time for an oil change in my 3000GT (I'm
hitting 6 mos w/o
>an
>oil change, and just below 5000 miles)
5,000 miles? Steve, tell me it's a NA Base or SL
model.
>and I was wondering what
>particular oil filter you guys
use.
Mobil 1 all the way.
>Also, I'm getting in some MT90
>and
>plan on putting that in after I do my oil change. Could
anyone fill
>me
>in on where the fill is for the transmission and
where the drain
>bolt(s)
>are? I assume it's in the owner's
manual.. however I haven't found
>mine
>yet...
thanks
Not in the owners manual, but in the service manual. Find
someone with
the CD or something. Also, how many miles on your
ride? MT-90 over MTL?
I've had real good luck with another
synthetic called GM Synchromesh. I
did not like the MTL.
BTW,
did you order one of the windshield banners from Gregg? The
GTO
one? Got any pix if so?
Thanks,
SJ
>--Steve
"Loco3KGT" Gula
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:08:44 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Most people on the list swear by
the OEM Mitsubishi oil filter.
If you're getting Mobil1 oil, look for a
place that's offering a
"do-it-yourself" change special: an Autozone up here
in Mass was offering 5
quarts of Mobil1 (any grade) and a Mobil1 filter for
$21.50 (I bought 2 sets
with 15w50 oil). Otherwise the Mobil1 filter is $10
by itself.
Personally, I swear by the Fram oil filters - inexpensive, and
they seem to
work really well.
Other brands have caused problems with
oil flow.
I don't know for sure where the transmission drain and fill
plug are on a
nonturbo. I believe the drain plug is in the same place: on the
bottom of
the transmission, on the side. The fill plug should be on top of
the tranny,
under/in front of the airbox somewhere... that area that's
blocked by
intercooler piping in a turbo. :-)
-Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: J. Stephen Gula [mailto:loco3kgt@widomaker.com]
Sent:
Thursday, June 03, 1999 2:23 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Hey
guys,
It's time for an oil change in my 3000GT (I'm
hitting 6 mos w/o an
oil change, and just below 5000 miles) and I was
wondering what
particular oil filter you guys use. Also, I'm getting in some
MT90 and
plan on putting that in after I do my oil change. Could anyone fill
me
in on where the fill is for the transmission and where the drain
bolt(s)
are? I assume it's in the owner's manual.. however I haven't found
mine
yet... thanks
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:11:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Danvers Gathering this weekend!
Hello all,
Thought
I would send out an email reminder that the Danvers Gathering is
THIS
weekend!
Check out this URL: http://www.gis.net/~3kgt/
Hope I
reminded some people, and informed some others.
Have
fun!
Regards,
Dennis
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 13:11:53 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
Go with the Mobil 1, K&N
makes a good one, and was also looking at the Bosch Premium (at Auto Zone) - it
looks and seems to be almost like the Mobil 1 (at 1/2 the price). Wouldn't
go with Fram or one of the cheapos - cause you will pay later.
- --
On
Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:22:46 J. Stephen Gula wrote:
>Hey
guys,
> It's time for an oil change in my 3000GT (I'm
hitting 6 mos w/o an
>oil change, and just below 5000 miles) and I was
wondering what
>particular oil filter you guys use. Also, I'm getting in
some MT90 and
>plan on putting that in after I do my oil change. Could
anyone fill me
>in on where the fill is for the transmission and where the
drain bolt(s)
>are? I assume it's in the owner's manual.. however I
haven't found mine
>yet... thanks
>
>--Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:18:15 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Engine and Transaxle oil change
i
>
> Personally, I swear by
the Fram oil filters - inexpensive, and they seem to
> work really
well.
>
> Other brands have caused problems with oil
flow.
>
========================================================================
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
the
site shown above tests oil filters and he didn't have anything good to say about
Fram.
Keep in mind when reading that this is one mans opinion.
Jim
Berry >>>
93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/330#
R
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:25:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
>
> Most people on the
list swear by the OEM Mitsubishi oil filter.
>
> If you're getting
Mobil1 oil, look for a place that's offering a
> "do-it-yourself" change
special: an Autozone up here in Mass was offering 5
> quarts of Mobil1
(any grade) and a Mobil1 filter for $21.50 (I bought 2 sets
> with 15w50
oil). Otherwise the Mobil1 filter is $10 by itself.
>
> Personally,
I swear by the Fram oil filters - inexpensive, and they seem to
> work
really well.
>
> Other brands have caused problems with oil
flow.
Though I only drive a SOHC, I have had experience with the
following
filters: (in order of preference)
Mobil 1
Mitsubishi
OEM
K&N
Fram
Pep Boys generic brand
The Mobil 1 is the
best oil filter I have used. I have noticed that it
has actually
assisted in minimizing the lifter tick noise. Now, it only
creeps up a
little in the morning (for about 1 second), and only for a few
seconds in the
cold winter mornings. (I'm happy)
The problem is that it is small, very
small. Easy to grip, but hard to
get off. Most oil filter
wrenches are too big to grip it.
The OEM filter works well
also. I think that it also helped in reducing
the lifter tick, but not
a lot, and not nearly as much as the Mobil, in my
opinion. It does the
job, but is a little on the pricey side, since it is
OEM.
When I
first tried the K&N, I had a slight leak on my car. For
some
reason, "hand-tight + a little" was not tight enough. Usually,
with many
oil filters, tightening the filter with that much pressure should
be
sufficient. However, I had to tighten the K&N up a bit more
(don't know
why).
It seemed to work alright. The 1" nut is a great
idea, but the filter was
located in such a position that it made it as
difficult to get a socket
wrench in there as an oil filter wrench. So,
for me at least, I gained
nothing with the 1" nut.
The Fram worked
decently, nothing great. Since I noticed no difference in
lifter noise
between the K&N and the Fram, given the choice between the 2,
I would
pick the Fram due to its price.
That's all I have to offer. I hope
this helps out.
Regards,
Dennis
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:45:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
> >
> >
Personally, I swear by the Fram oil filters - inexpensive, and they seem
to
> > work really well.
> >
> http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
>
> the site shown above tests oil filters and he didn't have anything
good
> to say about Fram. Keep in mind when reading that this is one
mans
> opinion.
This is quite an interesting site! He has
some good points to make, and
has some interesting insights into the oil
filter manufacturers.
Apparently he likes the Mobil 1 filter the best (as do
I).
Now, who is going to cut open one of our Mitsu OEM filters to find
out who
makes it? :)
Regards,
Dennis
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:49:18 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
After reading said article, can I
retract my reccomendation for Fram
filters?
I've been using the Tough
Driver filters, which seemed to work well, but
apparently have a risk of
disitigrating and allowing glue to flow into your
engine...
Time to go
buy some more Mobil1 change specials.
-Ed
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Thursday,
June 03, 1999 4:18 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine and Transaxle oil change
i
>
>
Personally, I swear by the Fram oil filters - inexpensive, and they
seem
to
> work really well.
>
> Other brands have caused
problems with oil
flow.
>
========================================================================
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
the
site shown above tests oil filters and he didn't have anything good to
say
about Fram.
Keep in mind when reading that this is one mans
opinion.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/330#
R
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 20:07:44 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: I was really stupid! Please help!
NOT in the state of VA. I
checked with our corporate laywer, who does
nothing but contract law..
Unless public sentiment will sway them, it's a goner.. God, I feel
sooooo
stupid!
Thanks again,
Roger
- -----Original
Message-----
From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
Sent:
Thursday, June 03, 1999 3:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: I was really stupid! Please help!
You should ALWAYS have
a few days to take the car back... They are
filling you will a buncg of CRAP
- GO GET IT BACK NOW.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:57:51 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wheel bolt spacing
Anybody know the center hole diameter, the stud circle
and the stud hole diameter
for our wheels.
Jim Berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #196
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm