--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #195
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest
Wednesday, June 2 1999 Volume 01
: Number
195
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 18:59:35 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset
specification needed
On my year 1991 the Calipers & rotors will clear
the 16" wheels. On the later
years the larger rotors will not clear. Thanks.
Still need the offsets tho?
Arty
In a message dated 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM
Eastern Daylight Time,
josesini@engin.umich.edu
writes:
<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification
needed
Date: 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: josesini@engin.umich.edu
(josesini)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Your
front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
>
What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as
follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock
offset was
46mm
>
I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available
or
>
16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the
available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
>
Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 01 Jun 1999 19:51:14 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
In that case, I would go with
38mm w/ 16x9 or 16x9.5 wheel so you can
put on a 275/45R16 tire (If they make
it!)
By the way, if money was no option, you can have Kinesis make you a
3
piece wheel to your specifications. Apparently all their 3 piece
wheels
are custom made.
Good luck,
Jose
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> On my year
1991 the Calipers & rotors will clear the 16" wheels. On the later
>
years the larger rotors will not clear. Thanks. Still need the offsets
tho?
> Arty
>
> In a message dated 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern
Daylight Time,
> josesini@engin.umich.edu
writes:
>
> <<
Subj: Re: Team3S: Rim offset
specification needed
> Date: 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern
Daylight Time
> From: josesini@engin.umich.edu
(josesini)
> Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.
>
> Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
> >
> > What size offset would be needed if
I change my rim size as follows:
> >
> > 91 VR-4
Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>
>
I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>
>
16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
> > be
specific
> >
> > The reason I'm looking to go to a
smaller wheel is due to the available
> > sizes of slicks &
weight savings.
> > Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> >
>>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:27:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
DBAsport rotors????
> Has anyone looked at the new DBAsport rotors for
our cars? They are both
> drilled and slotted. They seem
pretty nice. Just curious if anyone knows
> anything about
them. I am trying to get some prices of
them.
=========================================================================
I
have a catalog on order,I talked to the distributor briefly and got the
impression that they
were your run of the mill aftermarket rotors. BTY they
do sell some kind of fluid recirculation
system to go with their brakes, he
said there was info in the catalog.
I also got a Wilwood racecar brake
catalog ---- racing brakes and rotors --- yikes, high end
stuff is $3700 per
caliper although they do have stock car/road race calipers for $370. In
addition
they have the curved vane rotors for $70 and mounting hats for $90 [
low end ]. I'm not sure
if they make anything that fits our cars, but I'll
check. They have fluid recirculation also.
Jim
berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:27:17 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
VR4/stealth short block
I have access to a new, still in mitsu box,
VR4/stealth short block -- 4 bolt.
If anybody's interested email me at fastmax@home.com.
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 18:23:16 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
headers
I recently talked to a shop that claims to have fabricated
headers for the 3000/Stealth
TT in a failed effort to provide aftermarket
products for the turbo car. Any idea what
this aborted effort was?? I'm going
to talk to him in the next week or so to see what he
has to offer. It's in
the So. Cal area. Any guesses or input appreciated.
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:33:50 EDT
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: My new
web site (still in constrsuction)
try renaming default.htm to
default.html if that doesn't work try index.html
and
index.htm
X
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 01 Jun 1999 21:54:53 -0400
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts Microfiche
Thanks to all for your positive comments on the
parts microfiche. As it
turns out, the person that won the bid intends
to share his good
fortunate. Why not show your support and contact
him. His name is
Lorne and his e-mail address is vr4@cwia.com
Thanks,
Don
1993
R/T TT
3si #152
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:29:02 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes
Yes,
Check out this page to
see the details http://www.myzero.com look
at the
electronic section to see the info you need. If you have more
questions
I'll
help.
David
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:25:38 -0600
From: David J Moravek <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes
Yes
If you have a analog
votage meter it is very simple. There is a web page
that details the
"how to" on the page. It is located in the electronic
section of his
page. After reading that page and if you still have
questions. E-mail
me again, and I'll help you out.
Did you do ANYTING to the car or did
the Check light just come
on?
David
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:56:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: VR-4 calipers on an N/A
Hello all,
Here is a
question which I have been chewing on for a little while.
Not considering
the offset issue, is it possible to install VR-4 calipers
on a non-VR4 3/S
car?
My understanding is that all 3/S N/A cars have a 2 piston front
caliper
set-up, while the VR-4's have a 4 piston caliper setup.
I have
looked at the service manual, I don't immediately see any
differences which
would prevent this from happening.
What about the brake line? Is it
a different size?
I can't tell by the pictures in the maunual if it
is...
Do you VR-4 owners out there know what the size of the brake lines
are?
Regards,
Dennis
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:29:45 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes - (Long Post)
Hope this may help
someone in the future. I got fooled at first.
Thanks a lot anyway,
but I found the info in the manual under the
MFI section. It was a
strange problem that fooled me at first.
After drving for 1/2
hour, I had stopped and shut off the car.
I went to start it after 15
minutes and it was idling rough like
it was on 5 cylinders, and the "check
engine" light was on. Drove
it a little and it cleared up and the
light went out. It happened
again at the house, so I started to check
the wires with a timing
light to find that one wire wasn't firing. I
assumed that since I
put in Magnecors and new plugs last week, something
fell off, or the
wire just went bad, or maybe the plug went bad. (not
likely) Well,
my luck, it was one of the rear plugs. Had to rip it all
apart
again to find there was nothing wrong with the plug or wire.
This
is after I took the old plug and wire, and watched the plug fire
outside of the engine, so I knew it was either the wire or plug.
So I put the old plug and wire back in for hell of it. Started it
and found the same problem. That's when I checked the code from
the "check engine" light. I refused to believe it was an injector
like
the code was telling me since I knew the plug wasn't firing.
I grounded pin#1
of the OBD connector and read the code right from the
check engine
light. Ripped the plenum out AGAIN, and found that a wire
had popped
out of one of the injectors. I repaired the the connector,
and that was
it! I guess I should have trusted the OBD/check engine
light!
I had
assumed that since there was no spark, the ECU was shutting off
the injector
to that cylinder. The whole funny thing is now that all
is working, I
still can't get the timing light to be triggered off that
one wire, and it's
not even the same cylinder that had the bad injector
connector. I
guess the timing light dosn't trigger well with the
Magnecors, but it's
strange how it's just that one wire. If I take
the wire and plug out,
the timing light fires fine, it's only when the
plug is in the engine!
Who knows!! I'm just happy to find the problem.
Thanks for all your
help.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla,
K&N FIPK, Magnecors
David J Moravek wrote:
>
>
Yes
>
> If you have a analog votage meter it is very simple.
There is a web page
> that details the "how to" on the page. It is
located in the electronic
> section of his page. After reading that
page and if you still have
> questions. E-mail me again, and I'll help you
out.
>
> Did you do ANYTING to the car or did the Check light just
come on?
>
> David
>
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:48:34 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Changing to
Solid Lifters?
Any information on changing to solid lifters? 91
VR-4.
My engine builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done it or
tried to do
it?
Any suggestions pro or con appreciated.
Thanks Arty 91
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 12:00:29 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Changing to Solid Lifters?
Arty,
There are several
advantages to using solid (mechanical) lifters. You can
switch to dual valve
springs, get more radical with cam profiles, run
higher RPM's, and have a
more "bullet proof" upper end, to name a few.
Out of all the Starion
engines i built for racing purposes, only one left
my possesion with
hydraulic lifters, only because the guy did not want to
have to adjust his
valve lash every month or so. The problem with
converting a 3/S to mechanical
lifters is availability. Unlike the starion
engine which had an older,
mechanical lifter version which made it easy to
convert, the 3.0L V6 has
always had hydraulic lifters. This means you will
have to pay (dearly, i'm
sure) somebody to make you a set, instead of using
some from a older engine
platform.
Aside from the $$$ issue, mechanical lifters
require frequent adjustment.
You already know how much of a pain it is to
change spark plugs, imagine
having to go one step further and remove the
valve covers to adjust the
lifters about every 1000 miles......I hope this
helped some...
Wayne
At 10:48 AM 6/2/99 , you
wrote:
>Any information on changing to solid lifters? 91
VR-4.
>
>My engine builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done
it or tried to do
>it?
>Any suggestions pro or con
appreciated.
>Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 18:59:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Changing to Solid Lifters?
You may ask Brian at GT-Pro about
them. We spoke about them almost a year ago
and I think he does have some
information for ya. His email address is still "GT
PRO" thegtalley@email.msn.com
Regards,
Roger
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> Any
information on changing to solid lifters? 91 VR-4.
>
> My engine
builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done it or tried to do
>
it?
> Any suggestions pro or con appreciated.
> Thanks Arty 91
VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just
Rosso)
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:05:26 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Aftermarket rotors
Do Brembo or other aftermarket calipers bolt directly
to the stock hub
or do they usually have an adapter bracket.
Also does
anyone know the mount center spacing [ the distance between
the mounting
holes ] and the mount radius [ the distance of a mounting hole
from the
center of the spindle ] on the 93 stock
caliper.
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:39:30 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Strange Spool-down noise
Greetings
folks,
I had to get my tranny
replaced under warranty (yay! that's the
second
tranny for me - does the
car become a lemon after _three_
tranny
replacements?) and I'm not
quite satisfied with this one as
well.
When I'm in gear, and
when I take the foot off the gas pedal, I hear
a
whining noise similar to that of
an airplane turbine jet engine
spool
down (tho not nearly that
loud, but the same tone; actually I have
to
turn off the A/C and the radio
to hear it distinctly.) When I
depress
the clutch pedal or shift
to neutral, this sounds goes away.
The
sound is prominent in the 1500
to 2000 rpm ranges, but I can hear
it
from 3000 down to 1000.
The technician at the dealer claims that
he
talked with the Mitsubishi
tech. line and was apparently informed
that
this noise was normal.
But, it doesn't sound normal to me, given
the
circumstances of its
occurance.
BTW, I also had the
clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing
replaced
and now the clutch pedal
is not nearly as stiff as it used to be,
and
I'm able to downshift with
little to no 'jerkiness.'
- -sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N
FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads
in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4
tires.
- --
*******************************************************************************
You
took my last chip, you could at least smile, Worf.
Smiling would break his
concentration.
-- Pulaski and Geordi, "The Emissary",
stardate
42901.3
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 17:07:15 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Strange Spool-down noise
Yoss,
This sounds like normal gear
noise. Ever watched a Can-Am race on TV;
those Butstangs and others
sound like remote control cars they have so
much gear noise. You can also
hear quite a bit on Formula-1 cars as
well.
If that is what it sounds
like it could be OK.
Regards,
Lynn
Yoss wrote:
>
> When I'm in gear, and
when I take the foot off the gas pedal, I hear
a
> whining noise similar
to that of an airplane turbine jet engine
spool
> down (tho not
nearly that loud, but the same tone; actually I have
to
> turn off the A/C and
the radio to hear it distinctly.) When I depress
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 02 Jun 1999 20:44:30 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Strange Spool-down noise
So you think they put in straight
cut gears instead of helical cut?
That sure would make shifting
easier...
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #195
****************************
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