--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #194
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Tuesday, June 1 1999          Volume 01 : Number 194




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:57:04 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: DBAsport rotors????

Has anyone looked at the new DBAsport rotors for our cars?  They are both
drilled and slotted.  They seem pretty nice.  Just curious if anyone knows
anything about them.  I am trying to get some prices of them.
Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 00:07:12 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where is the ECU in my 94 vr-4??/

Josh,

No need to connect the speed sensor ! Just use the handbrake switch for it and
you're fine.

BTW, the timer is called "Dual Timer"

> I am trying to find the ECU in my 94 vr-4 cause I need to connect to pin 86
> for my Blitz turbo timer/boost gauge.  Pin 86 is the speed sensor.  Thanks
> for your help.

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:11:51 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Where is the ECU in my 94 vr-4??/

Doesn't it need the speed sensor or auto determine how long the car should
stay on?  Also where will I find or what color is the e-brake wire?  Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 6:07 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Where is the ECU in my 94
vr-4??/

Josh,

No need to connect the speed sensor ! Just use the handbrake
switch for it and
you're fine.

BTW, the timer is called "Dual Timer"

> I am trying to find the ECU in my 94 vr-4 cause I need to
connect to pin 86
> for my Blitz turbo timer/boost gauge.  Pin 86 is the speed
sensor.  Thanks
> for your help.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:30:08 -0500
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Door LEDs

There's a web page floating around that discusses how someone replaced
their LED's in the door switches, AND how he added them to the passenger
door.  Does anyone know of this page, or how I might go about this?  I
don't have the LED's in hand so I don't remember their ratings.

Thanks,

*Phil

- ----------
Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Central Custom Programmer
<mailto:dangerwit@mediaone.net>dangerwit@mediaone.net

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:03:20 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS Turbo Clutch Carbon

I got my car back with the new clutch (GP RPS Turbo Carbon) and new
warrantied
transmission on Friday.  First thing I did was stall the car, I always seem
to
do that with a new clutch.  I immediately jumped in the car and headed to
Panama City Beach.  Here's a list of my observations on the trip.

1.  To my surprise, the clutch requires about 20-30% LESS force than the
stock
    clutch
2.  When either slowly or only partially engaging the clutch (like when
you're
    inching forward in traffic), it tends to jump and jerk around, rather
than
    smoothly applying power.  My old Integra used to do this, so I figure
it's
    normal and just a result of the materials it's made out of.
3.  The clutch catches a lot quicker than the factory.  If you don't
rev-match
    properly, you get one hell of a case of whip-lash.

Overall I'm happy with the clutch.  I haven't tried any launches, as I want
to
let it break in first.  Is breaking in necessary with these?

Michael

BTW: I'm heading up to Nashville tonight for the week, if anyone can
recommend
     some good roads to drive on while I'm up there, or just want to get
     together and talk cars, drop me a line.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:05:13 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Door LEDs

> There's a web page floating around that discusses how someone replaced
> their LED's in the door switches, AND how he added them to the passenger
> door.  Does anyone know of this page, or how I might go about this?  I
> don't have the LED's in hand so I don't remember their ratings.

He didn't actually _replace_ any _LEDs_ as much as he added them... stock all of the
"amber" lights are simply white lights w/ rubber coverings. What he did was go in there,
remove the lights, add resistors to the + side of the LEDs and fit them in.. best thing
to do is know which wires are + and - and solder an LED to 'em (with the resistor on the
+ side). The passenger side buttons are the _same_ buttons as the driver side, so all
you'll need to do is find some +/- wires controlled via the light settings (parking
lights setting) and drill some holes... it's complicated in a sense... sorry I don't
have the URL.

- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:59:07 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Turbo Clutch Carbon

  Is breaking in necessary with these?



Yes!!, Break in is necessary.  4-500 miles very low boost (3-5 psi), No
load, and no slipping of the clutch.

Matt

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:10:50 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Turbo Clutch Carbon

>   Is breaking in necessary with these?
>
>
>
> Yes!!, Break in is necessary.  4-500 miles very low boost
> (3-5 psi), No
> load, and no slipping of the clutch.
>
> Matt

I've been shifting with low power, but once the clutch is engaged, I've been
giving it full throttle.  Should I quit doing that?  What are the effects if
you don't break it in properly?

Michael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:08:40 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Turbo Clutch Carbon

Not according to Rob Smith.  Supposedly the carbon kevlar composite clutches
do not require the same breakin method as resin bound fiber clutches.

My specific question to him was "Can I take this directly to the track and
have it work as expected?" to which he responded "No problem".  I would
think this would NOT be true for fiber/resin clucthes.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>   Is breaking in necessary with these?
>
>
>
> Yes!!, Break in is necessary.  4-500 miles very low boost (3-5 psi), No
> load, and no slipping of the clutch.
>
> Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:25:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Turbo Clutch Carbon

The point of breaking in a cluch is not unlike bedding in brake pads.  The
binding resins need to cure and emerge to the surface which requires heat.
As the material cures some of these resins escape and burn off.  Babying the
clutch is typically not recommended so it sounds like you are doing just
fine.  If the clutch is babied, it will only get a little bit hot, usually
hot enough to cause glazing but not allow the resins to actually burn off.
Slipping the clutch is typically not a great idea anyway.  Proper engagement
with spirited but not abusive driving should allow your clutch to last a
long time and take more abuse later on.

The authorative answer should come from the manufacturer since it is they
with whom you must deal in the unlikely event of premature failure.  So if
they say something different, follow their instructions, not a dealer, not
me nor anyone else unless they agree to pay for the clutch if it falls apart
2000 miles from now ;).


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> >   Is breaking in necessary with these?
> >
> >
> >
> > Yes!!, Break in is necessary.  4-500 miles very low boost
> > (3-5 psi), No
> > load, and no slipping of the clutch.
> >
> > Matt
>
> I've been shifting with low power, but once the clutch is
> engaged, I've been
> giving it full throttle.  Should I quit doing that?  What are the
> effects if
> you don't break it in properly?
>
> Michael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:22:19 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: My new web site (still in constrsuction)

http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/~mk4supra/

then click on default.htm
Anybody know how to set it up so that default.htm starts automatically?

it's only 1/4 done w/lots of Pics to come.  Is Chris Dotur on this list?
because I have pics of him & his Vr4 (although not posted yet). 

for JACK T.:
do you mind if I post your pic from Turbo Mag?

any advice on the site greatly appreciated
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:43:59 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: **my new website update**

http://personal.atl.bellsouth.net/atl/m/k/mk4supra/Default.htm

I was told that address will work, but somehow I couldn't get it to work
in Netscape
IE did load it w/o any probs.
try it.
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:43:32 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed

What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:

91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
             I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
                                    16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
be specific

The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
sizes of slicks & weight savings.
Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:51:44 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed

Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 23:46:27 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Dual Timer setup

> Doesn't it need the speed sensor or auto determine how long the car should
> stay on?  Also where will I find or what color is the e-brake wire?  Thanks

No, the time is calculated by the amount of pressure or vacuum read over the
whole time the car runned. This is the only "true" Turbo Timer and work damn
good :)

The purple wire is needed to sense the handbrake signal. Just run the car,
switch of the ign. key and do not connect the purple wire to anything. The timer
will stop immediatly. Now do the same and make contact to the chassis and the
timer will count down until it stops the engine. Use a voltmeter to find out
what wire it has to be attached to at the handbrake switch. It must show 0 volts
when the handbarke is on and something else when off. This should work then for
you. You can test this by just sliding the purple wire into the boot of the
other one and see how it works. Finally just splice into the wire and the thing
works.

Hope this helps,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:58:13 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed

Actually, since Arty has a '91, he may very well be able to find a 16" that
fits over the front calipers. Note the key word MAY... But I'm pretty sure a
16" without any interior bulges will fit over the smaller older calipers.

Arty:
Stock offset is 46mm on all of our wheels. You will want something slightly
LOWER than this to push the wheels outboard to prevent rubbing. How much
lower depends on how wide a tire you're going to run. Reducing the offset by
half the increase in width of the tire will keep the inner sidewall of the
tire in teh same location...

    -Ed

- -----Original Message-----
From: josesini [mailto:josesini@engin.umich.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 2:52 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed


Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work?
Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #194
****************************

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