--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #190
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Thursday, May 27
1999 Volume 01 : Number
190
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 May 1999 19:22:11 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dual battery question
Why not just get one of the ground side
shutoffs from Racer Wholesale, or
Summit? They go inline off the ground
terminal and have a knob to open the
circuit. If you need particulars, or a
part # let me know, and I'll look it
up. Like $15 or so. You see them at a
lot of car shows, so as to save from
popping out the bulbs when the car's
open for show.
It doesn't solve the underlying problem, it sounds like a
highh impedance
short to ground somewhere in the car. Someone with a
sensitive DC ampmeter,
and start pulling fuses to find the draw sounds like
it would be in order
here :)
Hope that helps!!
Roger
Crawford
94 Black VR-4
3Si #241
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Stealth [mailto:cirrus@shore.intercom.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 26, 1999 6:37 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Dual battery question
Sears used to sell a dual mode battery,
which had a switch for a reserve of
power if the main cell was drained. Does
anyone know of any such a thing
that is available now? I really hate the idea
of it sitting for two weeks,
even if I do go start it every day, I don't want
to think about getting
caught with a dead battery after dark in Baltimore
without a backup of some
sort...and I know those so-called battery packs are
a rip-off and useless.
Robyn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 May 1999 18:13:10 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
brake cooling
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA7A3.697D9BE0
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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For those of you with a generous racing budget, and would like to
cure some brake cooling
problems take a look at this electric turbo. Look at
the video link on the web page. As an
inline blower a pair of them could
cool your front brakes, and, for a few bucks more you could
add some kind of
water injection.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/330#
R
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/Autoframe.htm
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA7A3.697D9BE0
Content-Type:
application/octet-stream;
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Supercharger.url"
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Supercharger.url"
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[DOC#8#9]
BASEURL=http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/LEFT.HTM
[DOC#8#10]
BASEURL=http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/autoprod.htm
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Modified=600431E9DCA7BE01C0
-
------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA7A3.697D9BE0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 09:40:25 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Need
Best priced Magnecor wires
Hi all,
Could someone please advise me on
who to contact for the best priced
Magnecor (KV85-CM series) spark plug
wires? I need the name of the company,
Phone # and price! I
recall this subject was discussed not too long ago and
I cannot recall the
details and price. Was it a group purchase price? And
if
so, may I contribute?
Thank you!
Ahmed - '92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 10:43:23 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dual battery question
Stealth wrote:
> I've had the car
dead as a doornail from the parking lights being
> on for three hours, or
the car door being just ajar enough for the little
> light to be on most
of the night.
Not sure about the batteries you speak of, but it
definately sounds like something else
is going on. I've left my
interior lights on for over 12 hours and my car started very
quickly.
Also keep in mind that it takes some driving, half an hour I've heard,
to
fully recharge the battery after the car was started. Multiple
starts should be fine as
long as it is driven some distance, but you don't
want to start it and only drive it a
couple miles and then shut it off.
Most people that do exactly that replace their
batteries
frequently.
hope it helps some,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 07:45:37 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: GC
group purchase
Any prodding being done on the Ground Control purchase ---
I checked yesterday
and was told not everyone had made their purchase yet. If
true we should open it
up again to get our twenty
count.
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 09:49:19 -0500
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dual battery question
I've noticed the same on my car
also. I figured having an active alarm
system has something to do with
it, but my battery croaks pretty easily.
In fact, I have a hell of a time
starting the car with the headlamp switch
in the "on" position, even though
they aren't "on". Neat. Oh, and don't
expect to charge your
battery if you're driving with those headlights on...
nothing's gonna charge
then.
Anyway, I'm just chalking it up to a long overdue battery
change. This is
a very new thing and the car hasn't been driven hard
for a while now. I
take the car out for about 20 minutes every evening
to help the charge out
(no headlights) so I can be sure it will start the
next day.
Good luck,
*Phillip
At 09:43 AM 5/27/99 ,
you wrote:
>Stealth wrote:
>
>> I've had the car dead as a
doornail from the parking lights being
>> on for three hours, or the
car door being just ajar enough for the little
>> light to be on most
of the night.
>
>Not sure about the batteries you speak of, but it
definately sounds like
>something else
>is going on. I've
left my interior lights on for over 12 hours and my car
>started
very
>quickly. Also keep in mind that it takes some driving, half an
hour I've
>heard, to
>fully recharge the battery after the car was
started. Multiple starts
>should be fine as
>long as it is
driven some distance, but you don't want to start it and only
>drive it
a
>couple miles and then shut it off. Most people that do exactly
that replace
>their
>batteries frequently.
>
>hope it
helps some,
>Jason
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
----------
Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Central Custom Programmer
<mailto:dangerwit@mediaone.net>dangerwit@mediaone.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 11:03:49 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dual battery question
Phil Johnson wrote:
> I've
noticed the same on my car also. In fact, I have a hell of a time starting
the
> car with the headlamp switch in the "on" position, even though they
aren't "on".
> Neat. Oh, and don't expect to charge your battery if
you're driving with those
> headlights on... nothing's gonna charge
then.
Now that you mentioned it, ever since I learned that driving with
your headlights on
during the day was safer I NEVER turn my headlights
off. I leave the switch on, start
the car easily, drive around, turn
the car off, open the door and they shut themselves
off. It's a 94 VR4
and I replaced the battery about a year ago, after not checking the
water,
with a high capacity one. I'm also known to play my radio loud. In
fact, at the
gathering I had my radio playing at a decent level for a good
couple of hours while the
car was off. It started right up. Is it
possible that the twin turbos, or different
years came with higher current
alternators?
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 10:28:44 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: GC group purchase
>Any prodding being done on the Ground
Control purchase --- I checked
yesterday
>and was told not everyone had
made their purchase yet. If true we should
open it
>up again to get our
twenty count.
I ordered mine!
I prodded last week and got admonished
for it by an admin.
I say open it up to the list again.
Rich/old
poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 08:35:03 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
brake rotors
I've been talking to a few folks about rotors and calipers
and a couple of them said that the
benefits of cryogenic treatment was lost
the first time you heat them up to that nice cherry
red state. While you're
not likely to get your brakes that hot in normal street driving, at a
track
event I'm sure it's a regular occurrence.
Anybody out there with
metallurgy/heat treating experience. Paying for cryo treatment
that goes away
during the first hard use is a waste of money if those comments are
true.
BTY most mentioned for saving your brakes is air cooling. I like
the idea of the air deflectors
used on the recently posted NSX web page [
cheap and easy ]. Also, the more I think about
it the more I like the idea of
using the turbo blower/duct to cool the brakes. While $300 per
blower is
steep it's a lot cheaper than a Brembo big brake setup. A pair of blowers
plus
ducting is $700 or so. The blower gives you air when you need it most
--- slow speed after
heavy braking. Turning the blower(s) on with heavy
braking and then having a twenty second
time delay to turn it off would be
fairly easy. The kit contains switches and relay but no time
delay. The
biggest problem is power draw -- 40 amps each --- one wouldn't be a problem
but
I'm not sure about two. A well charged battery would be a must and an
over-ride switch for
critical use only.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/330#
R
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 08:41:46 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dual battery question
I had the same problem about a year ago
('92 VR-4). One day the car was fine, the next - no start. Carried
it to a friends shop - Auto Electrician, who checked it all out. Outcome
was that the alternator / battery can't keep up with usage if you're running the
A/C, fog-running lights, radio, and then the lights. Don't even think
about running the rear window defogger with all that other stuff on either -
you'll be in Deadsville real quick. Watched my electrical usage pretty
much ever since and haven't encountered any other starting problems. Didn't ask
the rating of the current alternator, but wondered if there was a higher output
one available - didn't look into any further.
- --
On Thu, 27 May
1999 11:03:49 Jason Barnhart wrote:
>Phil Johnson
wrote:
>
>> I've noticed the same on my car also. In fact,
I have a hell of a time starting the
>> car with the headlamp switch in
the "on" position, even though they aren't "on".
>> Neat. Oh, and
don't expect to charge your battery if you're driving with those
>>
headlights on... nothing's gonna charge then.
>
>Now that you
mentioned it, ever since I learned that driving with your headlights
on
>during the day was safer I NEVER turn my headlights off. I leave
the switch on, start
>the car easily, drive around, turn the car off, open
the door and they shut themselves
>off. It's a 94 VR4 and I replaced
the battery about a year ago, after not checking the
>water, with a high
capacity one. I'm also known to play my radio loud. In fact, at
the
>gathering I had my radio playing at a decent level for a good couple
of hours while the
>car was off. It started right up. Is it
possible that the twin turbos, or different
>years came with higher
current alternators?
>
>Jason
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 12:01:50 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dual battery question
Check to see if your battery is drawing
excessive current with the
ignition off. Do you have a non factory
alarm that is bad?
I just replaced my battery and measured the current draw
just for
future reference.
After reconnecting the battery I
found that it draws approx.
200mA for the first 30 seconds, and then settles
down to 20mA
or so. It appears to be pulsing between 18mA and
22mA. I have
the factory alarm, and it was not set. Hope this
helps.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla,
K&N FIPK, Magnecors
Stealth wrote:
>
> I'll be going to
Baltimore in a week and a half from now, for two weeks of
> technical
training in the downtown area. I plan to leave the car in the
> hotel
garage for most if not the whole time (I despise heavy city driving,
> and
am too paranoid about the Stealth to expose it to the downtown
>
elements).
>
> My battery is only about a year old, but I have
noticed that it drains
> unreasonably quickly. The last battery did the
same thing, as did the two
> batteries I went through in my previous
Stealth, so I don't think it's the
> battery. I've had the car dead as a
doornail from the parking lights being
> on for three hours, or the car
door being just ajar enough for the little
> light to be on most of the
night.
>
> Sears used to sell a dual mode battery, which had a
switch for a reserve of
> power if the main cell was drained. Does anyone
know of any such a thing
> that is available now? I really hate the idea
of it sitting for two weeks,
> even if I do go start it every day, I don't
want to think about getting
> caught with a dead battery after dark in
Baltimore without a backup of some
> sort...and I know those so-called
battery packs are a rip-off and useless.
>
> Robyn
>
>
(any 3/S folks in Baltimore? e-mail me privately please,
> cirrus@shore.intercom.net)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 12:20:13 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: GC group purchase
We already have the 20 people. I'm pretty
sure it's over.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: team 3si <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, May 27, 1999 9:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: GC group
purchase
>Any prodding being done on the Ground Control purchase
--- I checked
yesterday
>and was told not everyone had made their
purchase yet. If true we should
open it
>up again to get our twenty
count.
>
>
Jim Berry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 13:53:56 -0500
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dual battery question
In my car I have an Alpine SEA-8080
alarm system. Aside from it being too
touchy, it isn't armed when in my
garage, and still the battery acts "low"
when I go to start it later
on. Again, I'm just going to try a new battery...
..but I'm not up
on my battery lore. Is diehard the way to go, are there
other things to
look at? Do spark plug types make a difference, or rather
the plug
wires?
*Phil <--- electrically challenged
At
02:01 PM 5/27/99 , you wrote:
>Check to see if your battery is drawing
excessive current with the
>ignition off. Do you have a non factory
alarm that is bad?
>I just replaced my battery and measured the current
draw just for
>future reference.
> After reconnecting
the battery I found that it draws approx.
>200mA for the first 30
seconds, and then settles down to 20mA
>or so. It appears to be
pulsing between 18mA and 22mA. I have
>the factory alarm, and it
was not set. Hope this helps.
>--
> Jeff Schwartz
>
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
> Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors
-
----------
Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Central Custom Programmer
<mailto:dangerwit@mediaone.net>dangerwit@mediaone.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 14:02:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Hic!
At 01:53 PM 5/27/99 -0500, you wrote:
>..but I'm
not up on my battery lore. Is diehard the way to go, are
there
>other things to look at?
As far as I'm concerned,
they are all the same.
Besides, I base my buying decisions on the one
critical question:
Do they support racing?
(Actually, I'm kinda glad
that Great Western stopped sponsoring cars,
because they make truly awful
wine.
I don't know about Arciero wine, because we can't get it
here.
There's a Mondavi car out there somewhere. At least I hope
so.)
Rich/old poop/hic!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 15:14:30 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Hic!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
>..but I'm not up on my battery lore. Is diehard the way to go,
are there
>other things to look at?
As far as I'm concerned,
they are all the same.
Besides, I base my buying decisions on the one
critical question:
Do they support racing?
-
---------------------------
I prefer sealed-cell batteries. They're
safer, lighter, smaller, more
dependable, and hold a more charge than
ordinary batteries. Oh yeah, and
they're a lot more expensive, which would be
the big downside.
In this category, most people get Optima or Black
Panther batteries.
I've got a Black Panther in my VR-4, and just
oredered an Optima from OG
Racing (http://www.ogracing.com/) for my
Impulse.
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 13:11:30 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dual battery question
Phil (and others)...
The
charging and/or holding a charge has nothing to do with your spark
plugs
and/or spark plug wires. The areas involved are the battery, the
battery
cables, the alternator and the connections between all of these.
I,
personally, store my car (in the garage, under cover) for months at a
time.
I may start it once a month, maybe even as little as once every six
weeks. I
have NEVER had the battery go dead, before or after I replaced the
original
aftermarket battery. Keep in mind, I don't arm the alarm while it's
in the
garage. A couple things to check:
1. The connections at the
battery. Even a little corrosion will prevent a
good charge. Take off the
cables and clean both sides.
2. The battery. Stock batteries on "all" cars
are the cheapest units money
can buy. They are generally excluded from
warranty so the manufacturer
doesn't care if it dies on the 366th day.
Replace it with a dry cell, you'll
drop some weight and gain some real estate
for mods.
3. The alternator. It should be putting out 13.5 VDC when running
above 2K
RPM (this is said w/o a manual in my hands, but generally true for
most
alternators). Check and see if you're getting that. Check to make sure
the
connections are good and clean.
4. The cables. Like all cables, the
will wear out if abused. Bending them
too much "can" break the strands inside
the jacket and/or at the terminal.
Check to make sure the connections are
good and clean.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle
body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller,
G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell
battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030",
ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Phil Johnson [mailto:dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net]
Sent:
Thursday, May 27, 1999 11:54 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dual battery question
In my car I have an Alpine SEA-8080
alarm system. Aside from it being too
touchy, it isn't armed when in my
garage, and still the battery acts "low"
when I go to start it later
on. Again, I'm just going to try a new
battery...
..but I'm not
up on my battery lore. Is diehard the way to go, are there
other things
to look at? Do spark plug types make a difference, or rather
the plug
wires?
*Phil <--- electrically challenged
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 14:13:24 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dual battery question
I've had my car for 8 years and I
replaced the battery twice in the first 4
years. The last time I put in
an Optima Red Top battery and it has been
going strong every since. It
was expensive ($139 if memory serves me), but
I would have probably replaced
it at least once (maybe twice) since then if
I used another
brand.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
<snip>
>..but
I'm not up on my battery lore. Is diehard the way to go, are
there
>other things to look at? Do spark plug types make a
difference, or rather
>the plug wires?
>
>*Phil
<--- electrically challenged
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 16:29:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject:
Team3S: Stuck Accelerator?
I was driving this morning and the throttle
seemed to get stuck. The car idles at 3000 RPM. I
checked the floor mat (it
wasn't in the way). There is a cable adjustment screw on a green box
mounted
on the drivers side fender well. This cable adjustment was very loose, I
tightened it but
that didn't work. The throttle is about 1/4" away from the
sensor. Any guesses?
got to go,
I'll try to fix it tonight
if I get home.
RAM
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 16:54:15 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dual battery question
I have
>the factory alarm, and it was not
set.
I'm confused: My '95 VR-4 has the factory alarm, but
to my
knowledge it is always set when it is locked. How do
you "not set"
your alarm, other than not locking the car?
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 17:49:14 -0500
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stuck Accelerator?
You might want to check the cable attached
between the pedal and throttle
body to make sure it didn't somehow tighten up
on you. I reset mine when I
did my plugs and wires, and was easy to
do. The cable is located just
behind the intake plenum, between it and
the firewall. There's two screws
on top you need to
loosen/remove. You may also want to consider removing
the Y-pipe if you
have a TT so you can see the throttle plate. (I have
pics of this if
you want any)
After my plugs were replaced, I put it all together and
worked on the
throttle cable. Here's what we did:
1. Get a
friend/spouse/etc. to work the accelerator. Leave the car off,
of
course.
2. I put the accelerator all the way to the floor, and asked my
buddy to
make sure I had a completely horizontal throttle plate.
3.
He then reattached the bolts holding the cable in place, making sure
the
cable was taut and the plate open when the pedal is all the way
down.
It's really pretty easy, and I apologize if you knew this.
But hey, it
might help some others too. =)
If it is the cable,
then the next step is to figure out why it got stuck.
That'd be an
interesting thing to know (from my point).
*Phil
At 04:29 PM
5/27/99 , you wrote:
>I was driving this morning and the throttle seemed
to get stuck. The car
>idles at 3000 RPM. I
>checked the floor mat
(it wasn't in the way). There is a cable adjustment
>screw on a green box
>mounted on the drivers side fender well. This cable adjustment was very
>loose, I tightened it but
>that didn't work. The throttle is
about 1/4" away from the sensor. Any
>guesses?
>
>got to go,
>
> I'll try to fix it tonight if I get
home.
>
>RAM
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
----------
Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Central Custom Programmer
<mailto:dangerwit@mediaone.net>dangerwit@mediaone.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 27 May 1999 19:58:55 -0400
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Ebay #109024551
Hi,
I saw the item on ebay and wondered if
it would be benefit to all of
us. It's a microfiche of 3000GT
parts from 1991-1997 including
illustrations. I'll bid on it if someone
can come up with a way to
convert the microfiche to a file or document. Maybe
it could be included
on the manual on CD?? Please give me some
input.
Thanks,
Don
1993 R/T TT
3si #152
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #190
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