--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #188
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Tuesday, May 25 1999          Volume 01 : Number 188




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:58:19 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

I got the first model of the scoops done.  Don't laugh at them :-)  Just
the basic surfaces, but it should give you an idea of what I am thinking
about.  If you have any suggestions please do not hesitate to comment, I
want the truth.  The grey surface is where the 4" duct would connect to the
air box and the green surfaces are the intake scoop.  I am not really happy
with the intake yet but once I cut it in foam I can alter it to my liking.
 Also the rear exit can be slotted or any other arrangement....
suggestions?

http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1iso.jpg
http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1back.jpg
http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1under.jpg

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:17:32 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

> Also the rear exit can be slotted or any other arrangement....
> suggestions?
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1back.jpg

I feel it would be a good idea to have rear exits... I am still
a strong believer that the problem lies with the hot air not being
above to get out, if this could also be combined with your "RamAir"
design, then I think it would be a winner...

Not too sure about having to duct a pipe back to the air filter,
it could be that the force of the air coming from the front of
the vehicle would defeat it's purpose?

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4

PS:  For an amusing ad by Toyota NZ have a look at this (3.9MB)
     http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8084/bugger.mpg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 00:30:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

Good start Kevin !!

One of the things that you should also think about is that the water that gets
into the scoop can get away without being sucked into the filter. Also the
slotted part at the rear is great to release hot air but I don't like the
thought that the ECS connections can get wet when the car sits in rain.

For the ram air effect, it is not of any use for the inlet but will create a
better cooling under the hood.

Can the design be used for both sides ??

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:31:55 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

> Not too sure about having to duct a pipe back to the air filter,
> it could be that the force of the air coming from the front of
> the vehicle would defeat it's purpose?

Looks like a good start, but for those of us with K&N FIPK's there's nowhere
to attach a hose to do the ram-air mod.  Most of the other air filters I've
seen (if not all of them) are big elements on the end with no airbox at all.
Do you have a plan on how you would want to hook up that hose somewhere?
Even with the stock airbox, where you'd connect the tube it isn't round
(right on the airbox).  The inlet end of the goofy tube that's attached to
the stock airbox terminates too close to the front of the car to allow a
decent bend in the hose, and would be a pretty long run compared to somehow
pumping it straight into the filter.

I don't have a solution, but I have the questions!  :-)

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:55:07 EDT
From: Cw7781@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale!!!!!!!

Hi all:

I have some parts from a 93 3000GT VR4 for sale

- - 95 active aero rear spoiler.,, factory green...very good condition ..MUST
SELL!!
- -"mitsubishi" back panel
- -automatic climate control unit (digital)
- -"storage trays "next to spare tires in the trunk...
- -driver side door panel (inside)
- -cargo storage cover (sliding )
- -passager side whether strip ( one piece acroos the top and the side) brand
 new never use
- -factory carpet for the trunk with the wood borad
- -Glove compartment
- -stock front rotors
- -4 stock springs
- -91 3000GT service manual + electrical volume
- -2  side mirrors .(power) factory red
- -ALL data CD-rom form Mercedes to Volvo....which includes Mitsubishi 3000GT
- -Plus..many small interior parts also some fuses and relays.. e-mail for
need...
Please e-mail me PRIVATELY!
Thanks for everyone's time..
Clint

Thanks very much ....
Clint
missed his 93 GTO TT VERY VERY VERY MUCCCCCCH!!!
=(***************

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:37:21 -0400
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

Wow!! Laugh , hell!! You did a great job!!  Look forward to your
progress.

Don
1993 R/T TT
3si #152

Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
> I got the first model of the scoops done.  Don't laugh at them :-)  Just
> the basic surfaces, but it should give you an idea of what I am thinking
> about.  If you have any suggestions please do not hesitate to comment, I
> want the truth.  The grey surface is where the 4" duct would connect to the
> air box and the green surfaces are the intake scoop.  I am not really happy
> with the intake yet but once I cut it in foam I can alter it to my liking.
>  Also the rear exit can be slotted or any other arrangement....
> suggestions?
>
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1iso.jpg
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1back.jpg
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/version1under.jpg
>
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.pacarsearch.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:36:37 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Synthetic and Warranty

Greetings folks,
        I was informed by my local Mitsubishi Service Manager that using a
        synthetic GL-4 (Redline MT-90) is _not_ recommended as per his talk
        with somebody at the Mitsubishi Tech. Line,  'cuz it may potentially
        damage the transmission.  But, he also informed me that they didn't
        know for sure if it would void the warranty as well, so he's gonna
        talk to the Mitsubishi regional tech. person to get a definitive
        answer.

        I thought we could use any ole GL-4 rated oil for the transmission.
        Atleast, the owner's guide doesn't state explicitly that synthetic oil
        shouldn't be used. 

Confused
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
We cannot allow any race as greedy and corruptible as yours to have
  free run of the galaxy.
    -- Norman the android, "I, Mudd," stardate 4513.3.
*******************************************************************************
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:48:19 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need your opinion on Hood Scoops

Wow!  Impressive graphics, Kevin!  Looks great so far with a few
considerations the other guys on the list have already mentioned!

Good luck,
Ahmed  - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:58:25 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Synthetic and Warranty

Sounds like he has his GL #'s mixed up.  Very unadvisable to use GL-5 in our tranny's - excellerated wear, but ours is supposed to run GL3 / GL4.
- --

On Mon, 24 May 1999 16:36:37   Yoss wrote:
>Greetings folks,
>        I was informed by my local Mitsubishi Service Manager that using a
>        synthetic GL-4 (Redline MT-90) is _not_ recommended as per his talk
>        with somebody at the Mitsubishi Tech. Line,  'cuz it may potentially
>        damage the transmission.  But, he also informed me that they didn't
>        know for sure if it would void the warranty as well, so he's gonna
>        talk to the Mitsubishi regional tech. person to get a definitive
>        answer.
>
>        I thought we could use any ole GL-4 rated oil for the transmission.
>        Atleast, the owner's guide doesn't state explicitly that synthetic oil
>        shouldn't be used. 
>
>Confused
>-sankar
>--
>*******************************************************************************
>We cannot allow any race as greedy and corruptible as yours to have
>  free run of the galaxy.
>    -- Norman the android, "I, Mudd," stardate 4513.3.
>*******************************************************************************
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:08:51 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exhaust Valve needed.

It would be GREAT if I could get just the valve, or at most the valve with
the muffler. I am in chicago (go to erie once or twice a year tho). Thats a
bit far to drive (have done it!) hehe. If you could take a hack saw blade to
it, it shouldn't be too hard. I will even pay for shipping/packaging and
give you a FREE 3/S Cd repair manual (look at the site). Thanks for your
offer!

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: 'Vineet Singh ' <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:52 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust Valve needed.


>
> I have the cat back exhaust off my 94 vr-4 that you can have if you want
but
> i live in Pennsylvania near Philadelphia.  I don't feel like cutting it up
> and shipping.  But if you live near you are welcome to it and have a big
> enough vehicle to take it all in one piece.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vineet Singh
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: stealth-d@starnet.net
> Sent: 5/20/99 10:28 AM
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Valve needed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:17:57 EDT
From: MikeVR4@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: TWS Track Report (LONG!!!!)

3Si Track Report (ATTN: Road Racers, Ground Control buyers, brake enthusiasts)
Lone Star Region Porsche Club of America
High Speed Driver Education
Texas World Speedway
May 22-23, 1999

For the first time in five driver education events, I got to drive on the
track at the same time as my son, Mike!  Because we started off sharing the
same '93 3000GT VR4, PCA put us in two different run groups, Mike in Blue and
me in Green (beginner).   After I was shamed by the instructors into buying
my own '93 VR4, Mike was quite comfortable driving in Blue, and I certainly
wasn't ready to move up.  Mike soloed on his third and fourth events, and
spent virtually all of this event alone in the car.   This time, I got a
"social promotion" into Blue.  You know, that's when the kid doesn't make the
grade, but because of his age, they pass him along.  Anyhow, I got to drive
on the track at the same time as Mike, but couldn't keep up.

Our cars have identical manufacture dates, identical suspension (Ground
Control), identical wheels (Volk TE37), identical tires (Yokohoma AO32R),
identical rear brakes (Stillen cross-drilled rotors with stock calipers and
Metal Matrix pads), identical wires (Magnecore 8.5 mm), identical intakes
(K&N Filter chargers), identical stock turbos,  identical aftermarket analog
boost gauges, and close to the same mileage (mine a little over 60K, his a
little over 70K).  But then there's the slight differences like his
dual-solenoid electronic boost controller running at 14 psi (Thanks Roger
Gerl for your excellent research!!!) versus my manual boost controller
running at 11.5 psi; his HKS exhaust versus my stock exhaust; his
Stillen/Brembo Big Brake upgrade on the front (12.5" cross-drilled rotor,
huge caliper, and PAGID pads) versus my stock front calipers, Stillen
cross-drilled 12" rotors, and Metal Matrix pads; his aftermarket ECU versus
my stock ECU; and, oh yeah, he gets to remove his sunroof (every little bit
of weight helps)!

Mike is turning 2 min 16 sec for 2.9 mile lap times versus my best laps of 2
min 22 sec.  You know, a VR4 goes quite a ways in 6 seconds!  Honestly, we
are driving approximately the same lines, but he has a tremendous advantage
in acceleration as well as the ability to dump a lot more speed in a short
distance especially in turn one at the end of the big straight in front of
the grandstands, not to mention 23 year old reflexes!

We had an interesting experiment with magnetic numbers.  We've been assigned
permanent three-digit numbers by the Porsche Club.  They're supposed to be
10" high and 1" wide.  We printed them out on my color laser jet printer at
home, attached them to self-adhesive magnetic panels, and covered them with
acetate.  Two of three on each car flew off during the first session.  We
fixed this by taping around the edges with 3M blue tape.  We saw some neat
vinyl letters that you reapply each time with some kind of adhesive.  I
wonder what that does to the paint?

We spent a lot of time this weekend dodging other cars.  160 cars entered
this event, which made for a crowded course.  In the first run session, a
Porsche spun in front of me in the last series of turns.  Next lap a
race-prepped Porsche, who didn't have an instructor (no passenger seat) but
should've, let out a rooster tail of oil that looked like either a wave
runner or a sperm whale, and proceeded to drive on the racing line though
three turns before exiting onto the oval.  That cut the session short, but
not until after two or three more cars exited somewhat less gracefully.  It's
strange that you can't really see the oil on the asphalt when you're driving.
 They put kitty litter on the track and ran over it on Standing Yellow Flag,
until it was all soaked up or smeared out.  The rest of Saturday seemed to be
taken up by traffic jams ("monkey trains")and teaching drivers how to give
passing signs.  My next excitement was when a Boxster spun in the "carousel"
( a tight, 180 degree decreasing radius turn) right in front of me, but it
was easy to avoid him on the outside just by letting up on the steering
input. Dodging wasn't as easy for the 924(?) behind me - he found some space
on the inside between the Boxster and the curb.  He had been looking the
wrong direction to see the Boxster start spinning and came by after the
session profusely thanking me and saying the tipoff was when he saw me go
wide and stop accelerating. Turns out he and I had been driving very
similarly, and he had been watching my line that session.  Oh, yeah, the
moron that painted the track with oil came back in the last session in time
to drive like a jerk and make a double pass without a signal that put him
three abreast at the end of a passing zone, cut across the driving line being
narrowly missed, locked up his brakes in the curve.  Mike got a verry close
look at this incident.  Later that same lap, the moron exited the track then
re-entered, at least partly, and was putting his two right wheels on the
grass throwing up gravel on a line of cars behind him.  Funny, we didn't see
him again on Sunday.  Dork.

Sunday was much better.  The cars were spaced out more, drivers were giving
passing signals, and maybe some of the ***holes went home.  Sunday morning
was cloudy and cool, which was good for the turbos, but it got even hotter
than Saturday later on.  Keeping hydrated is really important down here.  We
drink a 20 oz bottle of gatorade before the first session and after each run,
minimum.  They brought a corner worker in with an ambulance because he didn't
keep ahead of his sweating. 

Mike's friend, Chad, brought his Corvette back to the track and was promoted
to Blue and Solo on Sunday.  After his first solo session, he requested an
instructor.  He learns fast - there is a lot of stuff going on out there for
one set of eyes to capture.  Chad learned that DOT 3 brake fluid just doesn't
cut it.  He cooked it good on Saturday, then paid a Bozo at the Exxon station
to replace it Saturday evening with some Valvoline synthetic stuff, but the
bozo only bled the system from one caliper, so he got to learn how to bleed
brakes at the track on Sunday with some help from a Porsche club member who
also had a corvette(Thanks!).  Mike and I have been using Motul 600, and we
have had absolutely no problems with the fluid.  We are bleeding the system
before each track event.  The old stuff is discolored (brownish instead of
golden), but still translucent.

We did have some problems the last several track events with Mike's front
brakes.  The rotors warped slightly after the first event where we both used
them (last November).  We had them faced off (0.002") and they warped again
after the next event (February).  We had them faced off again.  We also
changed the pads.  We also replaced the front splash guards with screen to
get more air through the intercoolers and onto the brakes.  They warped again
at the next event (April).  Mike bought replacement rotors from Stillen for
this event.  My wife took Mike's car after each run session and drove it
along the feeder road until the calipers we cool enough to touch.  Mike's
rotors didn't warp this time.  Both sets of rotors were carefully broken in
according to Stillen's recommendations.  They also seem to have changed the
part number on them - Perhaps a change in manufacture?  We really are going
to have to look at 1) ducting air from under the car to the front brakes,  2)
cutting away the remainder of the inboard splash guard that we had to trim to
get clearance for the 12.5" rotors, and 3) replacement rotors from
Porterfield.  On the other hand, my cross-drilled stock rotors never warped,
and I did not drive to cool them down after each session.  Of course, I
wasn't having to dump the same amount of speed as Mike, and the surfaces of
my pads did get gassy late Sunday, so that I had to tap them good during the
warmup lap to make darn sure they would be there in Turn 1.

Late in the last session, I came around the track into Turn 10 and saw a
yellow flag.  A car was off the track - shoot, it was Mike!  He was on the
inside of the turn waving through the sunroof.  Turns out that a Carrera went
into a spin between turns 11 and 12, a Mustang Cobra locked up his brakes to
keep from colliding, and Mike was just passing the entry into the "S". 
Rather than try to negotiate 2 spinning/sliding cars in a turn, he just drove
straight off the track no harm done (good thinking:  grass is softer than
steel!)  All-wheel drive is also very nice for getting back on the track…The
tow trucks had a lot of business this weekend pulling Porsches back onto the
asphalt.

When Chad got into the Blue run group, I made this rude comment that I hadn't
passed any Corvettes all day, because there had been none in Blue.  Mike and
I put him on the track in front of us.  I couldn't keep up with either of
them, so I just went about my business.  At the end of the session, all of a
sudden I see this darn Corvette in my rear view mirror!  I didn't think I was
driving so slow that he could lap me in a 25 minute run session on a 2.9 mile
course!  I was so deflated, I just gave him the passing sign.  Turns out he
had gone into the hot pits to drop off his instructor and wound up behind me.
 What a cheap trick!

At the track, Mike and I lowered our suspension to the same extent -  ¾ of an
inch below stock ride height.  We griped before about how we had to modify
the setup for the rear suspension, and Ground Control shipped us new springs
(2" longer) and a new upper spring perch for the rear.  We swapped those out
before this event and they worked quite well.  Our mod had worked okay on
mine, but on Mike's the metal bell shaped housing we were using for a spring
perch was cutting into the rubber bushing that Ground Control originally
supplied.  Bottom line - Make sure you get the new rear setup!  The new
springs are supposed to be a little stiffer.  I think the larger spring
provides more controlled travel on the rear shocks.  I think the rear end
rides better.  Adjusting the ride height makes a huge difference in steering!
 I really wish we had some car scales so we could adjust corner weights.  We
haven't tried to do the four-wheel alignment again with the new springs, but
that is on our list.  Before we could not get Mike's into spec on the rear. 
We don't have any kind of aftermarket upper alignment plate on our cars.  So,
if you are interested in getting the Ground Control setup, you might want to
figure out how to get the wheel alignment problem solved before committing. 
Perhaps a special on adjustment plates, Ground Control? <hint hint>

Some comments on the mix of cars - they must have had a fire sale on
Boxsters!  Everybody and his twin sister had one.  Opinion: They really suck.
 One Supra was running in Blue, he had his boost cranked up on Saturday to
where Mike couldn't stay with him in the straight.  After unceremoniously
exiting the track, Supra-boy turned down the boost on Sunday and got whupped
by everybody.  There was actually a GST Spyder in the Green group!  The lady
driving it had a husband and son also driving an M3. There was also a Viper
driving in the Green group.  On Sunday, the local Supra Club arrived just
before parade laps.  They got on the track and showed just how little they
knew about the racing line, as well as general track etiquette(Although they
did immediately come by to look at our 3000's!).   Someone showed up in a
Prowler on Sunday - No track time though.  Somebody also brought a base model
Stealth to the track, but didn't have the courtesy<grin> to pay his respects
at the Mitsubishi Pavilion, our large white canopy with an obnoxious red
triple diamond painted on the front.  I was disappointed that I didn't see
the guy from the 3Si list that I ran into at a local shop in Houston.  Should
have brought a 3Si pamphlet with us…damn.

Don't get me wrong - The Lone Star Region PCA is great!  Most of the members
are incredibly courteous and very friendly, and they keep safety a VERY high
priority(As evidenced by the lower speeds they enforced after the oil spill
all day).  That 924 owner is one of our new friends, along with several other
Porsche owners who mistakenly remarked how light our car must be for it to
perform so well on the road course!!!  HAHA!  You just have to worry about
those other "guests" of the club who haven't yet shown their ingenuity in
throwing their expensive car in your direction…

The instructors were talking about promoting Mike into Yellow, because he's
driving at the top of the Blue Group.  That group has a bunch a race-prepared
cars.  It may be a long time before I get to drive on the track at the same
time as Mike again!  Oh yeah, by the last session Sunday the instructors were
getting bored riding around with me.  They said I could solo anytime I
choose.  The sad thing is, after one year and five PCA events at TWS, Mike is
getting transferred to Omaha, Nebraska.  "Rich Old Poop" has been talking a
lot about Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas. It'll probably be more convenient
for Mike than his driving from San Angelo to College Station.  I guess it's
time for me to look for a trailer and hitch.  Driving from Houston to Topeka
doesn't seem so appealing with four race tires, a tent, and all my tools
crammed in the back. I wonder if we can make it to Topeka in one day, and
still get the car prepped in time to drive Saturday.  I don't think we can
drive and tear down on Sunday and still have enough energy to drive home. 
Looks like some four day track weekends coming up!

Are these cars great or what?!       <- Our new mantra
Chuck Willis
'93 Pearl White VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:50:21 -0400
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TWS Track Report (LONG!!!!)

Mike,

That's the content of posts I like to see.  Thanks for sharing it with
us.

Don
1993 R/T TT
3si #152

MikeVR4@aol.com wrote:
>
> 3Si Track Report (ATTN: Road Racers, Ground Control buyers, brake enthusiasts)
> Lone Star Region Porsche Club of America
> High Speed Driver Education
> Texas World Speedway
> May 22-23, 1999
>
> For the first time in five driver education events, I got to drive on the
> track at the same time as my son, Mike!  Because we started off sharing the
> same '93 3000GT VR4, PCA put us in two different run groups, Mike in Blue and
> me in Green (beginner).   After I was shamed by the instructors into buying
> my own '93 VR4, Mike was quite comfortable driving in Blue, and I certainly
> wasn't ready to move up.  Mike soloed on his third and fourth events, and
> spent virtually all of this event alone in the car.   This time, I got a
> "social promotion" into Blue.  You know, that's when the kid doesn't make the
> grade, but because of his age, they pass him along.  Anyhow, I got to drive
> on the track at the same time as Mike, but couldn't keep up.
>
> Our cars have identical manufacture dates, identical suspension (Ground
> Control), identical wheels (Volk TE37), identical tires (Yokohoma AO32R),
> identical rear brakes (Stillen cross-drilled rotors with stock calipers and
> Metal Matrix pads), identical wires (Magnecore 8.5 mm), identical intakes
> (K&N Filter chargers), identical stock turbos,  identical aftermarket analog
> boost gauges, and close to the same mileage (mine a little over 60K, his a
> little over 70K).  But then there's the slight differences like his
> dual-solenoid electronic boost controller running at 14 psi (Thanks Roger
> Gerl for your excellent research!!!) versus my manual boost controller
> running at 11.5 psi; his HKS exhaust versus my stock exhaust; his
> Stillen/Brembo Big Brake upgrade on the front (12.5" cross-drilled rotor,
> huge caliper, and PAGID pads) versus my stock front calipers, Stillen
> cross-drilled 12" rotors, and Metal Matrix pads; his aftermarket ECU versus
> my stock ECU; and, oh yeah, he gets to remove his sunroof (every little bit
> of weight helps)!
>
> Mike is turning 2 min 16 sec for 2.9 mile lap times versus my best laps of 2
> min 22 sec.  You know, a VR4 goes quite a ways in 6 seconds!  Honestly, we
> are driving approximately the same lines, but he has a tremendous advantage
> in acceleration as well as the ability to dump a lot more speed in a short
> distance especially in turn one at the end of the big straight in front of
> the grandstands, not to mention 23 year old reflexes!
>
> We had an interesting experiment with magnetic numbers.  We've been assigned
> permanent three-digit numbers by the Porsche Club.  They're supposed to be
> 10" high and 1" wide.  We printed them out on my color laser jet printer at
> home, attached them to self-adhesive magnetic panels, and covered them with
> acetate.  Two of three on each car flew off during the first session.  We
> fixed this by taping around the edges with 3M blue tape.  We saw some neat
> vinyl letters that you reapply each time with some kind of adhesive.  I
> wonder what that does to the paint?
>
> We spent a lot of time this weekend dodging other cars.  160 cars entered
> this event, which made for a crowded course.  In the first run session, a
> Porsche spun in front of me in the last series of turns.  Next lap a
> race-prepped Porsche, who didn't have an instructor (no passenger seat) but
> should've, let out a rooster tail of oil that looked like either a wave
> runner or a sperm whale, and proceeded to drive on the racing line though
> three turns before exiting onto the oval.  That cut the session short, but
> not until after two or three more cars exited somewhat less gracefully.  It's
> strange that you can't really see the oil on the asphalt when you're driving.
>  They put kitty litter on the track and ran over it on Standing Yellow Flag,
> until it was all soaked up or smeared out.  The rest of Saturday seemed to be
> taken up by traffic jams ("monkey trains")and teaching drivers how to give
> passing signs.  My next excitement was when a Boxster spun in the "carousel"
> ( a tight, 180 degree decreasing radius turn) right in front of me, but it
> was easy to avoid him on the outside just by letting up on the steering
> input. Dodging wasn't as easy for the 924(?) behind me - he found some space
> on the inside between the Boxster and the curb.  He had been looking the
> wrong direction to see the Boxster start spinning and came by after the
> session profusely thanking me and saying the tipoff was when he saw me go
> wide and stop accelerating. Turns out he and I had been driving very
> similarly, and he had been watching my line that session.  Oh, yeah, the
> moron that painted the track with oil came back in the last session in time
> to drive like a jerk and make a double pass without a signal that put him
> three abreast at the end of a passing zone, cut across the driving line being
> narrowly missed, locked up his brakes in the curve.  Mike got a verry close
> look at this incident.  Later that same lap, the moron exited the track then
> re-entered, at least partly, and was putting his two right wheels on the
> grass throwing up gravel on a line of cars behind him.  Funny, we didn't see
> him again on Sunday.  Dork.
>
> Sunday was much better.  The cars were spaced out more, drivers were giving
> passing signals, and maybe some of the ***holes went home.  Sunday morning
> was cloudy and cool, which was good for the turbos, but it got even hotter
> than Saturday later on.  Keeping hydrated is really important down here.  We
> drink a 20 oz bottle of gatorade before the first session and after each run,
> minimum.  They brought a corner worker in with an ambulance because he didn't
> keep ahead of his sweating.
>
> Mike's friend, Chad, brought his Corvette back to the track and was promoted
> to Blue and Solo on Sunday.  After his first solo session, he requested an
> instructor.  He learns fast - there is a lot of stuff going on out there for
> one set of eyes to capture.  Chad learned that DOT 3 brake fluid just doesn't
> cut it.  He cooked it good on Saturday, then paid a Bozo at the Exxon station
> to replace it Saturday evening with some Valvoline synthetic stuff, but the
> bozo only bled the system from one caliper, so he got to learn how to bleed
> brakes at the track on Sunday with some help from a Porsche club member who
> also had a corvette(Thanks!).  Mike and I have been using Motul 600, and we
> have had absolutely no problems with the fluid.  We are bleeding the system
> before each track event.  The old stuff is discolored (brownish instead of
> golden), but still translucent.
>
> We did have some problems the last several track events with Mike's front
> brakes.  The rotors warped slightly after the first event where we both used
> them (last November).  We had them faced off (0.002") and they warped again
> after the next event (February).  We had them faced off again.  We also
> changed the pads.  We also replaced the front splash guards with screen to
> get more air through the intercoolers and onto the brakes.  They warped again
> at the next event (April).  Mike bought replacement rotors from Stillen for
> this event.  My wife took Mike's car after each run session and drove it
> along the feeder road until the calipers we cool enough to touch.  Mike's
> rotors didn't warp this time.  Both sets of rotors were carefully broken in
> according to Stillen's recommendations.  They also seem to have changed the
> part number on them - Perhaps a change in manufacture?  We really are going
> to have to look at 1) ducting air from under the car to the front brakes,  2)
> cutting away the remainder of the inboard splash guard that we had to trim to
> get clearance for the 12.5" rotors, and 3) replacement rotors from
> Porterfield.  On the other hand, my cross-drilled stock rotors never warped,
> and I did not drive to cool them down after each session.  Of course, I
> wasn't having to dump the same amount of speed as Mike, and the surfaces of
> my pads did get gassy late Sunday, so that I had to tap them good during the
> warmup lap to make darn sure they would be there in Turn 1.
>
> Late in the last session, I came around the track into Turn 10 and saw a
> yellow flag.  A car was off the track - shoot, it was Mike!  He was on the
> inside of the turn waving through the sunroof.  Turns out that a Carrera went
> into a spin between turns 11 and 12, a Mustang Cobra locked up his brakes to
> keep from colliding, and Mike was just passing the entry into the "S".
> Rather than try to negotiate 2 spinning/sliding cars in a turn, he just drove
> straight off the track no harm done (good thinking:  grass is softer than
> steel!)  All-wheel drive is also very nice for getting back on the track…The
> tow trucks had a lot of business this weekend pulling Porsches back onto the
> asphalt.
>
> When Chad got into the Blue run group, I made this rude comment that I hadn't
> passed any Corvettes all day, because there had been none in Blue.  Mike and
> I put him on the track in front of us.  I couldn't keep up with either of
> them, so I just went about my business.  At the end of the session, all of a
> sudden I see this darn Corvette in my rear view mirror!  I didn't think I was
> driving so slow that he could lap me in a 25 minute run session on a 2.9 mile
> course!  I was so deflated, I just gave him the passing sign.  Turns out he
> had gone into the hot pits to drop off his instructor and wound up behind me.
>  What a cheap trick!
>
> At the track, Mike and I lowered our suspension to the same extent -  ¾ of an
> inch below stock ride height.  We griped before about how we had to modify
> the setup for the rear suspension, and Ground Control shipped us new springs
> (2" longer) and a new upper spring perch for the rear.  We swapped those out
> before this event and they worked quite well.  Our mod had worked okay on
> mine, but on Mike's the metal bell shaped housing we were using for a spring
> perch was cutting into the rubber bushing that Ground Control originally
> supplied.  Bottom line - Make sure you get the new rear setup!  The new
> springs are supposed to be a little stiffer.  I think the larger spring
> provides more controlled travel on the rear shocks.  I think the rear end
> rides better.  Adjusting the ride height makes a huge difference in steering!
>  I really wish we had some car scales so we could adjust corner weights.  We
> haven't tried to do the four-wheel alignment again with the new springs, but
> that is on our list.  Before we could not get Mike's into spec on the rear.
> We don't have any kind of aftermarket upper alignment plate on our cars.  So,
> if you are interested in getting the Ground Control setup, you might want to
> figure out how to get the wheel alignment problem solved before committing.
> Perhaps a special on adjustment plates, Ground Control? <hint hint>
>
> Some comments on the mix of cars - they must have had a fire sale on
> Boxsters!  Everybody and his twin sister had one.  Opinion: They really suck.
>  One Supra was running in Blue, he had his boost cranked up on Saturday to
> where Mike couldn't stay with him in the straight.  After unceremoniously
> exiting the track, Supra-boy turned down the boost on Sunday and got whupped
> by everybody.  There was actually a GST Spyder in the Green group!  The lady
> driving it had a husband and son also driving an M3. There was also a Viper
> driving in the Green group.  On Sunday, the local Supra Club arrived just
> before parade laps.  They got on the track and showed just how little they
> knew about the racing line, as well as general track etiquette(Although they
> did immediately come by to look at our 3000's!).   Someone showed up in a
> Prowler on Sunday - No track time though.  Somebody also brought a base model
> Stealth to the track, but didn't have the courtesy<grin> to pay his respects
> at the Mitsubishi Pavilion, our large white canopy with an obnoxious red
> triple diamond painted on the front.  I was disappointed that I didn't see
> the guy from the 3Si list that I ran into at a local shop in Houston.  Should
> have brought a 3Si pamphlet with us…damn.
>
> Don't get me wrong - The Lone Star Region PCA is great!  Most of the members
> are incredibly courteous and very friendly, and they keep safety a VERY high
> priority(As evidenced by the lower speeds they enforced after the oil spill
> all day).  That 924 owner is one of our new friends, along with several other
> Porsche owners who mistakenly remarked how light our car must be for it to
> perform so well on the road course!!!  HAHA!  You just have to worry about
> those other "guests" of the club who haven't yet shown their ingenuity in
> throwing their expensive car in your direction…
>
> The instructors were talking about promoting Mike into Yellow, because he's
> driving at the top of the Blue Group.  That group has a bunch a race-prepared
> cars.  It may be a long time before I get to drive on the track at the same
> time as Mike again!  Oh yeah, by the last session Sunday the instructors were
> getting bored riding around with me.  They said I could solo anytime I
> choose.  The sad thing is, after one year and five PCA events at TWS, Mike is
> getting transferred to Omaha, Nebraska.  "Rich Old Poop" has been talking a
> lot about Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas. It'll probably be more convenient
> for Mike than his driving from San Angelo to College Station.  I guess it's
> time for me to look for a trailer and hitch.  Driving from Houston to Topeka
> doesn't seem so appealing with four race tires, a tent, and all my tools
> crammed in the back. I wonder if we can make it to Topeka in one day, and
> still get the car prepped in time to drive Saturday.  I don't think we can
> drive and tear down on Sunday and still have enough energy to drive home.
> Looks like some four day track weekends coming up!
>
> Are these cars great or what?!       <- Our new mantra
> Chuck Willis
> '93 Pearl White VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:53:08 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks for the comments on hood scoops  !!!!

    Well I just got in from the garage.  Disassembled my right rear hub.....
what a mess.  Looks like all the grease leaked out and everything had a nice
coating of rust on it.  Bearings were shot.   Everything came apart great
and thank you all for the advice and pics.  I saw the rust and my first
thought was that the car was a flood damaged vehicle but a carfax check gave
me a clean title. ( wheewww !! )
    Now onto the hood scoops.  I was planning on cutting the stock air box
but I did not think before I started.  Not to fear, I was planning on
getting a K&N filter anyway, so I think the best way to do this is a large
dia.  tube that would slip over the K&N filter to only allow cool air to
enter the filter.  Now the only question is.... is the opening on the scoop
large enough to supply the engine with sufficient air flow?  Also the water
issue,  I will look into making the rear opening so there is no chance of
water running on the ECS connectors.  The front opening is another story.
Maybe a water trap in the bottom might work.  A "T" piece of PVC with the
lower portion capped off with a hole to drain the water would work.  I will
let you all know when I get the prototypes done, and yes it will be for both
sides.   Now if I could only figure out how to route that flow to both front
brakes ;-)


Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:59:56 -0700
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: NSX owner's views on brakes

Check out this guys NSX Mods page for his views on brakes.
http://www.nsxfiles.com/NSX_mods.htm
take a look at the rails made to duct air to the brakes from under the car
just passing along what i read.

Omar
92 r/t

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 23:11:53 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks for the comments on hood scoops  !!!!

>     Now onto the hood scoops.  I was planning on cutting the stock air box
> but I did not think before I started.  Not to fear, I was planning on
> getting a K&N filter anyway, so I think the best way to do this is a large
> dia.  tube that would slip over the K&N filter to only allow cool air to
> enter the filter.  Now the only question is.... is the opening on
> the scoop large enough to supply the engine with sufficient air flow?

I also had this thought initially, but the problem then becomes how to allow
the hood to be opened with a tube attached and still allow it to retain its
full inside diameter with the hood closed.  Does the scoop hole in the hood
line up well enough to allow a large enough tube to snake through to the air
intake area?  My previous car was a '94 and the new one a '95 -- so no hood
scoops.  My roommate has a '91 with the removable scoops -- but I haven't
had them off to take a look how the alignment sets up.

> Also the water
> issue,  I will look into making the rear opening so there is no chance of
> water running on the ECS connectors.  The front opening is another story.
> Maybe a water trap in the bottom might work.  A "T" piece of PVC with the
> lower portion capped off with a hole to drain the water would
> work.  I will
> let you all know when I get the prototypes done, and yes it will
> be for both
> sides.   Now if I could only figure out how to route that flow to
> both front brakes ;-)

I think that problem would be easier to solve.  You could have a lip that
hangs down the back, or underneath the scoop (a bottom side of the scoop, if
you will) which would cover up the ECS connectors.

- -Matt


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 03:50:02 EDT
From: Cw7781@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale!!!!

Sorry...
But I just want to add that I also has the comlete set of factory seat belts
for sale..
front and back
Thanks
Clint
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:54:23 +1000
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS failure

Thanks Wayne for the reply & the offer, but I would still like to know
if the ECS draws alot of current & if the car requires a very powerful
battery, as this problem has only occurred when the charge of the
battery has been down slightly ie if the car hasn't been driven for a
few days.
Cheers
Andrew
Australia
Wayne wrote:
>
> Andrew,
> It's probably one of your front strut harnesses (top of the strut tower) I
> have one i'll sell you if you are interested........I'll take $50
>
> Wayne
>
> At 04:10 AM 5/24/99 , you wrote:
> >Recently the ECS on my car started to play up in that "sport/tour" mode
> >started to flash & the car would revert to a stiff suspension setting.
> >The battery was a bit old (actually very old) so I replaced it with a
> >high power Bosch battery & this seemed to fix the problem.
> >I went away over the weekend & left the alarm on & when I went to drive
> >the car this morning the ECS indicator started to flash.
> >Is this a common thing?
> >The alarm being left for a few days would drain the battery a bit, but I
> >wouldn't have thought that much that the ECS would start to fail.
> >Does the ECS draw a huge amount of power?
> >Does the 3KGT require a super powerful battery?
> >Any other remedies?
> >Thanks
> >Andrew
> >Australia
> >94 VR4
>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:46:25 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS failure

> if the ECS draws alot of current & if the car requires a very powerful
> battery, as this problem has only occurred when the charge of the
> battery has been down slightly ie if the car hasn't been driven for a

No the ECS only draws a little current during driving but nothing when the car
sits around. In my point of view you have a short cut between one of the
electric connections on the struts. I'd remove them, clean them with contact
spray and connect them again. Afterwards use some silicone spray to prevent
water to get into the contacts again. I do this before every winter on the
fronts and never had a problem.

BTW, the stock battery lasts between 3 - 5 years and I'd do a test for
deliverable power on a yearly base. Otherwise the car will just die during
driving without any pre-sign.

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:20:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TWS Track Report (LONG!!!!)

>3Si Track Report (ATTN: Road Racers, Ground Control buyers, brake
enthusiasts)


Chuck:  Great post!

>
>At the track, Mike and I lowered our suspension to the same extent -  ¾ of
an
>inch below stock ride height. 

Does this mean you lower the car when you get to the track?

 Ground Control shipped us new springs
>(2" longer) and a new upper spring perch for the rear.  <snip> Bottom line
- - Make sure you get the new rear setup! 

How do you tell? What do you ask for?

> So, >if you are interested in getting the Ground Control setup, you might
want to
>figure out how to get the wheel alignment problem solved before committing. 
>Perhaps a special on adjustment plates, Ground Control? <hint hint>

Is this a real problem?
>
>Some comments on the mix of cars - they must have had a fire sale on
>Boxsters!  Everybody and his twin sister had one.  Opinion: They really
suck.

Companies are giving away Boxsters and Z3s to new-hire engineers.

>Mike is >getting transferred to Omaha, Nebraska.  "Rich Old Poop" has been
talking a
>lot about Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas.  I guess it's
>time for me to look for a trailer and hitch.  Driving from Houston to Topeka
>doesn't seem so appealing with four race tires, a tent, and all my tools
>crammed in the back. I wonder if we can make it to Topeka in one day, and
>still get the car prepped in time to drive Saturday.  I don't think we can
>drive and tear down on Sunday and still have enough energy to drive home. 
>Looks like some four day track weekends coming up!

Come in on Friday. You can set up at the track, then leave everything
there. The track is locked up and guarded all night. We start at 8:00 am.
on Saturday.

OK, so that's three VR4s for the next event at Topeka.
We need some more cars from Kansas City, Tulsa, and St. Louis.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:58:56 -0400
From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Team3S: Admin question on hidden addy's

I apologize for a non-technical post, but how exactly do you reply privately
to purchase requests and that sort of thing when the email address is
masked, presumably by the list engine?


- -Mike
'93 Stealth ES

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:27:54 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS failure

Andrew;

Roger's advise is right on target. It is likely the connectors on top of the towers.
Check them for starters. It cannot be the battery...when mine was so low that starting
became problematic (replaced it) I still did not get the ECU light

Best

Darc

Roger Gerl wrote:

> > if the ECS draws alot of current & if the car requires a very powerful
> > battery, as this problem has only occurred when the charge of the
> > battery has been down slightly ie if the car hasn't been driven for a
>
> No the ECS only draws a little current during driving but nothing when the car
> sits around. In my point of view you have a short cut between one of the
> electric connections on the struts. I'd remove them, clean them with contact
> spray and connect them again. Afterwards use some silicone spray to prevent
> water to get into the contacts again. I do this before every winter on the
> fronts and never had a problem.
>
> BTW, the stock battery lasts between 3 - 5 years and I'd do a test for
> deliverable power on a yearly base. Otherwise the car will just die during
> driving without any pre-sign.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:10:42 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Admin question on hidden addy's

Michael:

The e-mail addresses of the members posting to our list are
*not* masked - look in the "from" field in the headers.

The software automatically adds the list address to the
"Reply To:" address which isn't awfully convenient to just
hit "Reply" when wanting to send a private message, but the
sender's address is displayed.

Hope this helps you.

Rich
Admin - Team3S
- -------------------------------------------------
"Michael D. Romano" wrote:
>
> I apologize for a non-technical post, but how exactly do you reply privately
> to purchase requests and that sort of thing when the email address is
> masked, presumably by the list engine?
>
> -Mike
> '93 Stealth ES
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
"If you dig it, do it.
 If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce  (1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:33:51 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Admin question on hidden addy's

> The e-mail addresses of the members posting to our list are
> *not* masked - look in the "from" field in the headers.
>
> The software automatically adds the list address to the
> "Reply To:" address which isn't awfully convenient to just
> hit "Reply" when wanting to send a private message, but the
> sender's address is displayed.

If you are using something like Outlook where there are multiple frames in a
window to view the messages, double-clicking on the message in the "message
list" pane will usually open the message in a separate window and display
the "real" from-to headers where you can read the address of the original
sender.  Your mail reader is the one doing the masking.

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:13:46 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: Installign stuff help`

I have a Blitz Dual turbo timer/boost gauge.  Has anyone installed this
without the harness which aren't due into the US until June?  Also I have a
94 vr-4 anyone have the directions of how to install the HKS SSBV in it?
Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:10:09 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: I need wheels...BAD

O.K. Everyone,
I'm in dire need of a pair of right side 17" 1st gen VR-4 wheels. The
problem is i'm not willing to pay more than $100 each. I have many things i
can offer as trade items (3/S related or otherwise) if $100 is too low.
Somebody has to know where i can find a pair......PLEASE HELP ME.....

Wayne
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:40:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsu wheels for sale

Hello all,

  Thought that I would drop this piece of information off to you all.

I have been looking around for some VR-4 chromies for a while now, and ran
across this fella who repairs & rechromes wheels, thensells them.
The place is called Arrow Tire & Wheel, and the fella I have been dealing
with is named Brian.

Now, being wary of anything off the internet, I wanted to make sure that I
could arrange something that would minimize my risk (before I even
considered purchasing).
Brian ships all his wheels COD, so there is little risk here.
All his wheels come with a 1 year warranty, and are resuraced, rechromed
(if they are chrome) and fully aligned.

Okay, now for the prices:

Okay, now for the prices:
    I ordered a full set of 4 repared and rechromed VR-4 wheels (17") for
$800.  He had a set fo 18" chromies going for the same price, but sold
them.
According to Brian, he still has a set of 94 VR-4 17" chrome wheels for
sale, and a few other sets of VR-4 and SStealth wheels available.


Since I have not receioved my wheels yet, I cannot report on the quality.
However, this price is much cheaper than any ither I have encountered, and
I thought that I would let you know about it.

The number is 800-884-4349. 
Talk to Brian and tell him you were corresponding with me about the Mitsu
wheels.  Since we had several lengthy discussions, he should remember the
wheels I am talking about.

Hope this helps!

Regards,
   Dennis


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:35:29 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need some help from the pros on installing a boost controller

Ok I got a HKS Evc I and it wants me to connect it to 3 ports.  Intake
manifold ( I assume the plenum), turbocharger compressor housing, and to the
wastegate.  So where abouts do I find these ports?  Which ports to use on
the plenum and the others?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks a
lot.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:50:01 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need some help from the pros on installing a boost co ntroller

Standard practice is to 'T' the intake manifold line from the BOV line.

There's actually a line from just in front of the rear turbo compressor
housing back down there - I think it has a dashed white line on it. If the
EVC wants a line from in front of the compressor, you can just use that and
disconnect your stock boost control solenoid. Putting in a line _after_ the
compressor would be difficult, but I don't see why the EVC would need it.

You actually have two wastegates - you'll want to T that output from the EVC
to both. You can use the stock 4-way T just below the stock boost control
solenoid, or run the lines directly to the wastegates on the turbochargers.

Get your hands on a shop manual - it helps a lot.

   -Ed


- -----Original Message-----
From: Joshua


Ok I got a HKS Evc I and it wants me to connect it to 3 ports.  Intake
manifold ( I assume the plenum), turbocharger compressor housing, and to the
wastegate.  So where abouts do I find these ports?  Which ports to use on
the plenum and the others?  Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks a
lot.
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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:04:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Installign stuff help`

> I have a Blitz Dual turbo timer/boost gauge.  Has anyone installed this
> without the harness which aren't due into the US until June?

As already mentioned, get a harness and you'll save alot of time and bloody
fingers. Hey, June is next week so I think the little wait is worth it :)

> Also I have a 94 vr-4 anyone have the directions of how to install the HKS
> SSBV in it?

If it's the 1st gen 5 speed then the thing goes on without any problem. Of
course you must have the 3000GT kit, otherwise you have to work out something.

Good luck
Roger

- ----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:25:04 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need some help from the pros on installing a boost  controller

> There's actually a line from just in front of the rear turbo compressor
> housing back down there - I think it has a dashed white line on it.

Please, BE CAREFUL what you advice !! No offend broh as we all appreciate your
help, but you are very wrong !

> If the EVC wants a line from in front of the compressor

If the thing really wants a line INFRONT of the compressor wheel ... throw it
away.  Usually three ports are used to sense boost, input and output, that's it.

> you can just use that and disconnect your stock boost control solenoid.

No,no again. Just disconnecting the solenoid is not good. At least the free port
must be capped. Even more this would make zero sense and it is boost INFRONT the
throttle body.

> Putting in a line _after_ the compressor would be difficult, but I don't
> see why the EVC would need it.

What are you speaking about ? You know an EVC is a boost controller that
controls the wastegates by letting pressure to them or not. And this pressure
comes from after the compressor wheel (ahem, where it is produced). EVERY boost
controller needs this boost on the input port and the output port goes then to
the wastegates and that's it.

> You actually have two wastegates - you'll want to T that output from the EVC
> to both. You can use the stock 4-way T just below the stock boost control
> solenoid, or run the lines directly to the wastegates on the turbochargers.

This is ok, and yes we have to wastegates (we also have two turbos). But why
running an extra line where we already have a hardline installed ????

> Get your hands on a shop manual - it helps a lot.

Ed, this is the best advice and I second it for sure. Please note that Josh is
learning the stuff from scratch and it doesn't help to confuse him :)

I think the best advice for Josh is to look around on different homepages and
checking out the different setups. Josh, also have a look on my Turbo Basics
page where a typical boost controller setup is drawn for our cars. And no, our
turbos do not have a port on the compressor housing as it may be drawn in the
manual of the EVC.

A last note, you also have to regap the plugs for higher boost. So be prepared
for more work to come.

Good luck, and go on slowly.
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:04:40 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hood Scoop Update

Well I just finished plotting out my patterns so tonight I should get the
plug done for the scoop.  I opened up the front opening and I am going to
start looking for some perforated stainless steel to cover the openings.
For those who are interested, I basically took the model and sliced it up
in .25" sections and I will take my plots and trace them onto .25" foam
board.  http://www.pacarsearch.com/images/slice.jpg   This will allow me to
glue the pieces together and then sand them to get the final shape. Notice
the .25" holes towards the middle of the scoop.  This is so I can line up
all the parts so they fit perfectly.   After it is in the shape I want it,
I will smooth it out with some body putty and then glass over it.  Once the
fiberglass is set I will be able to cut all the openings out and scrape out
the foam.  I will take my digital camera with me to the shop and document
everything and post it to my web site.  If anyone is interested in making
their own scoops I will make the cross-section patterns available so you
can duplicate what I did.  I don't know if I have the time to get these
made and sell to everyone, but I will gladly share how I did it and give
you all the information I can.  Once I am done with everything I will let
you guys know how to get the sections, and maybe some instructions.


Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

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