--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #187
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest           Monday, May 24 1999           Volume 01 : Number 187




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 16:30:58 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Upgrades - possible installation mistakes?, VPC & BOV

I've written in several times now and have tried to keep up with the
posts.  I've learned a great deal and enjoy contributing when I can.
However, I'm still confused over some of the mods performed on my car.
It's a '92 Stealth RT TT that I purchased from Alan Lin last October.
By chance, does anyone out there know or better yet familiar with Alan
Lin's car?

As far as I can tell, the powertrain has been modified in the following
ways:

15G turbos
EVC III
VPC & GCC
 - HKS 550cc injectors w prom upgrade (not sure which prom)
 - HKS in tank fuel pump
G Force reprogrammed ECU
?Bullfrog racing cams?
HKS Intercoolers
Steel hard pipes (however y-pipe is still factory original)
Larger throttle body (not sure who's - purple throttle blade)
?HKS SHC (Super blow off valve High boost Controller)?
HKS Dual Power Flow (w Super Mega Flow filters)
2.5” t-304 stainless steel DP (not sure of make - DP doesn't replace
either precat)
3.0” t-304 stainless steel Borla cat back exhaust
gutted cats
Car once had headers (removed by previous owner after headers cracked
and replaced with stock exhaust manifolds)
NGK-R PFR6 J11 plugs (gapped to .032")
'93 5 speed with 25 spline transfer case

Lubricants / Oils I've changed:
engine: Mobil 1 10W30
transaxle:  Red Line MT 90
transfer case:  Red Line Heavy Shockproof
differential:  Red Line 75W90

I've verified most of the above mods (since purchase, I've sent the
turbos and heads out for rebuilds).  I have some documentation of
purchases from Alan, however since Alan did not perform the mods, he was
sketchy on exactly what was done.  What bothers me is that Alan's
mechanic (no offense if your on the list) appears to have fallen short
of an optimal installations.  Not only does there appear to be excess
hose length and subpar mounting locations but I fear some of it may be
hooked up incorrectly.  Despite this, the car does run quite well
(haven't run the quarter yet though).

Question:

VPC - Fontana's ABC's of VPC's is excellent, but I could really use more
pictures to make sense of some of the verbage.  On the pressure sensor
mounting, what will happen if the pressure sensor is mounted directly to
the firewall as opposed to upside down?  Also, with the mods I have, can
I remove the stock Turbocharger waste gate solenoid and just leave the
connector hanging (resides behind where Fontana shows his pressure
transducer mounted)?  Currently, the temp sensor is mounted at the end
of the intake manifold opposite the throttle body and the brake booster
vacuum line is at its stock location.  I'll be striving for a setup
nearly identical to Fontana's as I learn more about it.

BOV - I'm really confused here.  I've got an HKS BOV (not sure which
one) with two supporting sensors?/controllers? (sorry for the
description, but I don't know what they are).  The BOV itself is mounted
upright with the adjusting screw dangerously close to hitting the hood.
There are two vacuum ports, one is open to atmosphere (located on
underside of BOV) and the other evantually reaches manifold pressure
just past the throttle body (worth mentioning that there are three tee's
on this line sharing the signal).  I'll now try my best to describe the
two gadgets that seem to be part of the package.  One of the gadgets is
a silver cylinder (I'm guessing some sort of diaphram) with HKS written
on it in blue.  Off the back side is a vacuum line with an inline filter
(just like the in line filter on the VPC pressure sensor) that leads to
a tee located ~ 1 inch upstream the FPR.  This vacuum line seems
excessivly long as it routes around the battery (could remove at least
12" of length once I understand whats going on).  The other gadget is a
similar size dark green box with NOK stamped into it and 3208 written
below in blue ink.  There are a total of three vacuum ports on this
part, two at one end (both capped off) and one on the other which leads
to a tee on the BOV line.  There is a wiring harness that connects with
both of these gadgets leading ??.  I'm wondering why so many ports are
either capped off or open to atmosphere.

I'll feel better when I understand the workings of everything under the
hood, thanks for any help.

Joe Gonsowski

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 17:25:54 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: clutch pedal adjustment

After replacing my clutch last month, I decided to adjust the pedal
since I heard some other complaints about the drivetrain "thud" that
were related to the pedal adjustment.  I've noticed this noise slightly
sometimes when letting the clutch out in reverse, or when letting the
clutch out in 1st (after having just previously been in reverse).

The shop manual says the top of the pedal pad should be 177 to 182 mm
from the firewall.  I had to adjust the stop and pushrod to bring the
pedal up some to this value.  I measured between the clutch pedal and
the floor, after having pulled up the carpet.  There is still a bit of
padding under the carpet that I didn't pull up, but I added just a bit
of correction for that.  I had to adjust the pedal stop almost as far
out as it goes to get that height.

I got the pedal adjustment done without much trouble, then checked the
clearance with the pedal on the floor, which is supposed to be 55mm or
greater.  My pedal goes all the way to the floor still (same as before I
adjusted it).  There are marks in the carpet from the pedal.  I did
bleed the system when I replaced the clutch, as well as replacing the
stock bleeder screw with a speed bleeder, and I'm wondering why my pedal
doesn't meet the minumum height when depressed.  Is there supposed to be
a stopper on the floor (maybe the previous owner lost it when a stereo
was getting installed or whatever) or does this indicate some type of
problem with the master cylinder or slave cylinder?

^%#^&%#!

Thanks,

Dave
'91 R/T TT



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------------------------------

Date: 23 May 99 18:36:18 MDT
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control springs installed!

Hi Everyone,

I installed my Ground Control springs today. I ordered them before any mention
of a group purchase. :( I ordered 550s front and 400s rear because that is
roughly a 58/42 ratio like the stock ratio. My initial technical assessment is
WOW! The car feels totally neutral and I don't even have them properly
adjusted yet. I plan to find a shop nearby that has a set of wheel scales so I
can adjust the weight bias. Then a four wheel alignment will be in order. I
also ordered a pair of adjustable camber/caster plates although I didn't
install them. I'm going to wait and see if the car can be properly aligned
without them. If it can I'll see if any of you would like to take them off my
hands.

The car is definitely stiffer than it was before but not as stiff as I
expected it to be. The springs are a little bit "clanky" from bouncing up and
down on the lower adjuster. I used mechanics wire to secure the top spring
perch to the spring. I would think that if this could be done to the bottom
adjuster as well most of the clankiness (is that a word?) would go away. That
shouldn't interfere with the adjustment process.

Thanks for all of your input when I was trying to make the right decision. At
this point I'm very happy with the one that everyone helped me make.

Mark
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 20:55:57 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Report

>> Wow, this sounds very unsafe. What if you live in a city with bad potholes,
>
I think I missed something. What if you just lower the car 1- 1.5 in. and
run open track events?
Does the problem occur then?

What is the problem, exactly?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/Ground Control ordered
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:06:08 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control springs installed!

>
>I installed my Ground Control springs today.

I keep hearing stories about the cryptic nature of the Ground Control
instructions,  parts that don't fit, plates and landings that have to be
cut, and new diagrams that have to be faxed.

If any of thee who are installing or have installed the GC springs have any
advice to pass on or explanations that might help in our installations,
such inputs would be greatly appreciated.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
With child in anticipation of getting GC springs

,
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 23:38:44 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch pedal adjustment

David Margrave wrote:

> I got the pedal adjustment done without much trouble, then checked the
> clearance with the pedal on the floor, which is supposed to be 55mm or
> greater.  My pedal goes all the way to the floor still (same as before I
> adjusted it).  There are marks in the carpet from the pedal.  I did
> bleed the system when I replaced the clutch, as well as replacing the
> stock bleeder screw with a speed bleeder, and I'm wondering why my pedal
> doesn't meet the minumum height when depressed.  Is there supposed to be
> a stopper on the floor (maybe the previous owner lost it when a stereo
> was getting installed or whatever) or does this indicate some type of
> problem with the master cylinder or slave cylinder?
>
> ^%#^&%#!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> '91 R/T TT
Dave:

The 55mm that they are referring to is not where the clutch pedal should
stop when you push it, but rather the point where the clutch should
start to disengage. My pedal does, and always has, gone to the floor.

I wrote up a bunch of stuff last year regarding this problem. The
adjustment  cured my thud (but I didn't bleed the system). Is your thud
any better now?? How much did you give yourself for the black damping
material under the carpet??

Bill Wagner
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 00:57:52 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch pedal adjustment

I still seem to get an occassional thud whenever I change directions (i.e. let out
clutch in R from 1 or 1 from R).  It does seem better though.   I think I allowed about
5mm for the padding.  I really couldn't take the pedal up much higher, if at all.  I
may take it back down just a hair (maybe I corrected too much for the padding)...

Bill Wagner wrote:

> David Margrave wrote:
>
> > I got the pedal adjustment done without much trouble, then checked the
> > clearance with the pedal on the floor, which is supposed to be 55mm or
> > greater.  My pedal goes all the way to the floor still (same as before I
> > adjusted it).  There are marks in the carpet from the pedal.  I did
> > bleed the system when I replaced the clutch, as well as replacing the
> > stock bleeder screw with a speed bleeder, and I'm wondering why my pedal
> > doesn't meet the minumum height when depressed.  Is there supposed to be
> > a stopper on the floor (maybe the previous owner lost it when a stereo
> > was getting installed or whatever) or does this indicate some type of
> > problem with the master cylinder or slave cylinder?
> >
> > ^%#^&%#!
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dave
> > '91 R/T TT
> Dave:
>
> The 55mm that they are referring to is not where the clutch pedal should
> stop when you push it, but rather the point where the clutch should
> start to disengage. My pedal does, and always has, gone to the floor.
>
> I wrote up a bunch of stuff last year regarding this problem. The
> adjustment  cured my thud (but I didn't bleed the system). Is your thud
> any better now?? How much did you give yourself for the black damping
> material under the carpet??
>
> Bill Wagner
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:10:57 +1000
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Team3S: ECS failure

Recently the ECS on my car started to play up in that "sport/tour" mode
started to flash & the car would revert to a stiff suspension setting.
The battery was a bit old (actually very old) so I replaced it with a
high power Bosch battery & this seemed to fix the problem.
I went away over the weekend & left the alarm on & when I went to drive
the car this morning the ECS indicator started to flash.
Is this a common thing?
The alarm being left for a few days would drain the battery a bit, but I
wouldn't have thought that much that the ECS would start to fail.
Does the ECS draw a huge amount of power?
Does the 3KGT require a super powerful battery?
Any other remedies?
Thanks
Andrew
Australia
94 VR4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:26:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Upgrades - possible installation mistakes?, VPC & BOV

> By chance, does anyone out there know or better yet familiar with Alan
> Lin's car?

No, sorry.

> EVC III
> VPC & GCC
>  - HKS 550cc injectors w prom upgrade (not sure which prom)
>  - HKS in tank fuel pump
> G Force reprogrammed ECU

Therefore the VPC and ECU have (or should have) a specific PROM for this mods.
What label do the EPROMs in the VPC and ECU have ?

> ?Bullfrog racing cams?

Never heard of them (yet)

> Larger throttle body (not sure who's - purple throttle blade)

How large is larger ?

> ?HKS SHC (Super blow off valve High boost Controller)?

No, I don't know anything called like this. The EVC is already your boost
controller and I think you mean that this is an SBOV (Sequential Blow Off Valve)

> 2.5” t-304 stainless steel DP (not sure of make - DP doesn't replace
> either precat)

Sounds like the ATR

> (since purchase, I've sent the turbos and heads out for rebuilds).

Ouch !

> VPC - Fontana's ABC's of VPC's is excellent, but I could really use more
> pictures to make sense of some of the verbage.

Yes, more would help indeed (me too).

> On the pressure sensor mounting, what will happen if the pressure sensor
> is mounted directly to the firewall as opposed to upside down?

No problem !

> Also, with the mods I have, can I remove the stock Turbocharger waste gate
> solenoid and just leave the connector hanging (resides behind where Fontana
> shows his pressure transducer mounted)?

The ECU "sees" an non-present solenoid and MAY set a code, not 100% sure. I left
it connected, capped off the inlet port, removed it from the bracket and tied it
somewhere where it is out of my sight :)

> Currently, the temp sensor is mounted at the end of the intake manifold
> opposite the throttle body and the brake booster vacuum line is at its
> stock location.  I'll be striving for a setup nearly identical to Fontana's
> as I learn more about it.

The temperature in the intake path is the same so it doesn't care where the temp
sensor is installed to. It is NOT installed like HKS says in the copy I have and
I wonder where the clutch booster line is attached to now ? Bobs aim was to
reduce any unnecessary hoses and Ts. The best is to tap into the intake plenum
and not to T any hoses. Especially the fuel pressure hose should have its own
line to the FPR solenoid. The VPC paper speaks of splicing into the same line
with the BOV/BPV but I wouldn't do this as explained. It works for sure but is
just not the best that can be done.

> BOV - I'm really confused here.  I've got an HKS BOV (not sure which
> one) with two supporting sensors?/controllers? (sorry for the
> description, but I don't know what they are).

Well, are you sure you speaking of the BOV here ? I ask because a BOV has no
sensor nor controller but a larger in- and output and a vacuum hose connection
for the reference.

> There are two vacuum ports, one is open to atmosphere (located on
> underside of BOV)

Umpf, never seen a BOV with two ports but it sounds to me like this is one of
the Racing BOVs. Is the stock bypass valve still attached ?

> past the throttle body (worth mentioning that there are three tee's
> on this line sharing the signal).

If the devices attached to this lines do not really need fast reaction then it's
ok. Just make sure the fuel pressure line has it's own hose.

> Silver tank: Off the back side is a vacuum line with an inline filter
> (just like the in line filter on the VPC pressure sensor) that leads to
> a tee located ~ 1 inch upstream the FPR.

INMO, this is a vacuum/boost reservoir that allows to increase fuel pressure as
well as the FPR can act quicker due to the pressure already there.

> This vacuum line seems excessivly long as it routes around the battery
> (could remove at least 12" of length once I understand whats going on).

If it is a reservoir then the lenght shouldn't be a problem.

> The other gadget is a similar size dark green box with NOK stamped into it
> and 3208 written below in blue ink.  There are a total of three vacuum ports
> on this part, two at one end (both capped off) and one on the other which
> leads to a tee on the BOV line.

Isn't this a boost sensor device ? These things also provide to measure some
pressure difference using two ports and one for reference. If two are capped
off, the reference and difference is measured against ambient. Just an idea and
I'm not really use. You definitely have to find out where the canisters are
attached to electrically.
 
> I'll feel better when I understand the workings of everything under the
> hood, thanks for any help.

Me too :) Let us know if you found out more. Try to create a drawing like the
one in the VPC paper (but with electrical connections too). This then will help
you a lot when searching for problems or for fine tuning.

Regards,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:21:30 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear Wheel Bearings.... help. Wayne can I have your number?

Kevin,
The rear bearings are not quite as easy to do as the fronts. First you must
remove the CV Axles (take off the four bolts/nuts and move the axle out of
the way. No need to remove it from the differential) Then you will need to
remove the caliper, rotor, and ABS sensor. Next you remove the LARGE nut on
the backside which the axle was covering up and remove that flange. At this
point you can pull the shaft and bearings out from the wheel side of the
hub (you may need an axle puller). Once you have all this stuff removed,
you will need a press to get the outer bearing off the shaft. The inner
bearing will be inside the hub. Install everything in reverse order. That
large nut needs to be torqued down really good, somewhere in the neiborhood
of 200ft-lbs.

Keep in mind i'm going off memory, so this is not 100% accurate, but it
will give you a general idea of whats involved......Good luck....

Wayne


At 06:39 PM 5/21/99 , you wrote:
>Well I checked the wheel bearings last night and everything was tight, then
>I was sitting at work today and it struck me.  I had the E-brake on when I
>checked the wheels..... duh!  Well I checked it tonight, and sure enough the
>right rear wheel bearings are shot.  About 3/4" of movement at the tire !!!!
>And I drove to Ocean City like that !!  Anyway I took the tire off and
>looked at it and it is not apparent how to get it apart.  I did not receive
>my manual yet so I am in the dark.  Any help?  Can someone give me their
>number that has done this?  Also someone mentioned about the ABS sensor, I
>have that e-mail at work so I can not refer to it.  Something about being
>careful not to damage it?????
>
>Thanks guys,
>Kevin Schappell


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:57:24 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS failure

Andrew,
It's probably one of your front strut harnesses (top of the strut tower) I
have one i'll sell you if you are interested........I'll take $50

Wayne


At 04:10 AM 5/24/99 , you wrote:
>Recently the ECS on my car started to play up in that "sport/tour" mode
>started to flash & the car would revert to a stiff suspension setting.
>The battery was a bit old (actually very old) so I replaced it with a
>high power Bosch battery & this seemed to fix the problem.
>I went away over the weekend & left the alarm on & when I went to drive
>the car this morning the ECS indicator started to flash.
>Is this a common thing?
>The alarm being left for a few days would drain the battery a bit, but I
>wouldn't have thought that much that the ECS would start to fail.
>Does the ECS draw a huge amount of power?
>Does the 3KGT require a super powerful battery?
>Any other remedies?
>Thanks
>Andrew
>Australia
>94 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:12:52 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Crankshaft

Anybody have a extra crank to sell...improved 94 VR-4 model type.
Tks
Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:38:09 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Crankshaft prices

Tallah Mitsubishi can sell me the new 94 type crankshaft for $675.89
with my list discount.
Can I get this cheeper anyplace else?
Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:05:20 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft prices

Arty,
That sounds pretty cheap to me. I recently paid ~700 for a 91 version with
my standard 25% discount at my local dealer.

Wayne


At 09:38 AM 5/24/99 , you wrote:
>Tallah Mitsubishi can sell me the new 94 type crankshaft for $675.89
>with my list discount.
>Can I get this cheeper anyplace else?
>Arty 91 VR-4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:05:49 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 92 Tranny & Transfer case available $2350.

East Street Automotive claims they have a 92 Tranny & transfer case with
41000 miles on it from a 92 VR-4. They wanted $2350. if anybody is interested
in it
http://www.eaststreet.com/index.html
Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:19:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)

I noticed one day that while in "Tour" mode on the ECS, only my left
exhaust was expelling any air (as you look at the back of the car...). I
worried about this a little while I was driving the rest of the way to
rochester, ny from albany.  Then I thought perhaps when I put the ECS on
"Sport" mode, it would use both exhausts.  Lo and behold, when in "Sport"
mode, hot air was coming out of both exhausts, though less so from the
right one.  So my question is: is this the proper behavior for my '93
3000gt VR-4?  If not, what might be the reason?

Secondly, I've noticed that when I shift from say 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 there
is kind of a "click"? I don't know what else to call it, though it's more
substantial than that.  The reason I ask is: could this be a synchro
thing? I've read the list for a while, and know how much of a problem
people have with them.  So basically, what are the symptoms of synchros
going (having gone?) bad?

andy

- --------------------------------------------
1999: The people were lying on the ground. -- Douglas Coupland

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:26:22 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 92 Tranny & Transfer case available $2350.

I think they sold that one. I'm going down there tomorrow or wednesday,
i'll check it out....

Wayne



At 10:05 AM 5/24/99 , you wrote:
>East Street Automotive claims they have a 92 Tranny & transfer case with
>41000 miles on it from a 92 VR-4. They wanted $2350. if anybody is interested
>in it
>http://www.eaststreet.com/index.html
>Arty 91 VR-4


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:35:13 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)

Andy...

The right hand side exhaust outlet is really cosmetic (vs functional) as the
exhaust will always take the path of least resistance (the left hand, direct
route). That's why GReddy produces a straight 3" catback pipe, it's direct
and weighs less (but looks "unbalanced").

The "click", as you've described it, is normal. We have a "notchy" shifter,
although I would call it more of a "clunk". Nature of the beast. Watch out
for a "grind".

Looking forward...Chris
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Burke [mailto:burke@pas.rochester.edu]
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 8:20 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)


I noticed one day that while in "Tour" mode on the ECS, only my left
exhaust was expelling any air (as you look at the back of the car...). I
worried about this a little while I was driving the rest of the way to
rochester, ny from albany.  Then I thought perhaps when I put the ECS on
"Sport" mode, it would use both exhausts.  Lo and behold, when in "Sport"
mode, hot air was coming out of both exhausts, though less so from the
right one.  So my question is: is this the proper behavior for my '93
3000gt VR-4?  If not, what might be the reason?

Secondly, I've noticed that when I shift from say 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 there
is kind of a "click"? I don't know what else to call it, though it's more
substantial than that.  The reason I ask is: could this be a synchro
thing? I've read the list for a while, and know how much of a problem
people have with them.  So basically, what are the symptoms of synchros
going (having gone?) bad?

andy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:53:35 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: 2 quick questions abotu clutches

Ok When they say you should drive it easy around town for 500 miles, does
that mean your shouldn't switch gears with the car's rpms at anything about
3000-4000????  I know they don't want you dropping the clutch but does that
also mean changing gears at a high rpm?
Also I know a guy who has a dual friction clutch for 300 brand new but he
had bought it for a eclipse, is there any difference? Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:27:04 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)

I have noticed that they usually POP really hard going in to second.....and I
have been told that is a syncro problem....but I don't know much....so the
other guys will tell you.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:41:25 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: TPS question

I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need
any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.

Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:52:02 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

Hi all,

I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of us on
the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?  And
also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs straight from
the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11

Thanks in advance,
Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:13:15 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

all,
>
> I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of us on
> the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?  And
> also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs straight from
> the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11
=========================================================
Yes the 8.5mm wires are more then sufficient for our cars --- the 10mm are
overkill, they wont fit in the stock wire looms, they cost more, and they provide
no additional benefit [ maybe they look cool - size does count ].
The plugs come pre gapped at about .045, but are easily regapped using a plug
gapping tool [ it grabs the ground electrode and allows you to bend it carefully],
as mentioned in a previous post, don't tap the electrode to adjust.
Even though plugs are pregapped they should be checked anyway.


Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FPIK -- Magnecore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                           [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
                                 GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
                    Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:14:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

> I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
> the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
> under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
> it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> effectiveness and power?

Tap into the the TPS signal and use a comparator circuit with a power step to
activate the ESC. The voltage reference should be around 5 volts.

> Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need any kind of BOV ?

This answer should be given by the manufacturer as this pressure pushes the
propeller the opposite side. 1-3psi is not a lot but the bearing (if any) of the
e-motor can be the weakest thing in the path.

Good luck,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:18:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

>         I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of us on
> the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?

Any wires are good enough, even new stock ones :) The KV85 are the one I have.

> And also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs straight
> from the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11

Never heard of pregapped plugs for our need. HKS does them pregap but it depends
on how much do you want to pay.

Regards
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:20:25 -0700
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TPS question

The TPS is variable voltage. the switch that comes with the system is either
'on' or 'off.' with the right wiring and relays, i'm sure it could be set
up. You can get an RPM activated switch from places like JEGs, they go for
about $50 .BOV is used to protect turbos from compressor surge. in a 1 PSI
system with no turbo, and the fan shutting off at anything but WOT, i don't
think a BOV is useful or would even work.

Omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Michael Booker
> Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:41 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: TPS question
>
>
> I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
> the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
> under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
> it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need
> any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:41:39 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

In a message dated 5/24/99 12:16:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
fastmax@home.com writes:

<< Yes the 8.5mm wires are more then sufficient for our cars --- the 10mm are
 overkill, they wont fit in the stock wire looms, they cost more, and they
provide
 no additional benefit [ maybe they look cool - size does count ]. >>


That's too bad the 10mm Magnecor won't fit the VR4; I have the 10mm in my
Buick Grand National and would have liked to swap and see if they worked on
the VR4!

Thanks for your input, Jim & Roger!

By the way, has anyone heard of the Magnecor CN series?

Ahmed - '92 VR4  -
GReddy Profec B, GReddy turbo timer, SPI boost gauge with Pillar pod, Alamo
DP, Borla exhaust, Apex'i Blow-off valve, KVR Cross drilled rotors, Eibach
Springs (not installed yet)  & K&N filtercharger.
Coming soon:  New tranny and transfer case, Magnecor KV85 wires (maybe CN
series?) and new re-gapped NGK plugs! 
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:45:18 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft prices

Please, kill this question. I had to ordered it. I Can't find one used.
Thanks
Arty

In a message dated 5/24/99 7:42:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Aso8@aol.com
writes:

<< ubj: Team3S: Crankshaft prices
 Date: 5/24/99 7:42:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time
 From: Aso8@aol.com
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 CC: Aso8@aol.com
 
 Tallah Mitsubishi can sell me the new 94 type crankshaft for $675.89
 with my list discount.
 Can I get this cheeper anyplace else?
 Arty 91 VR-4 >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:56:09 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

> That's too bad the 10mm Magnecor won't fit the VR4; I have the 10mm in my
> Buick Grand National and would have liked to swap and see if they worked on
> the VR4!
>
> Thanks for your input, Jim & Roger!
>
> By the way, has anyone heard of the Magnecor CN series?
=================================================================
I doubt that a Buick spark plug wire could be used, as the connector on the
spark plug end is rather complex and to my knowledge there is no standard.
Also changing the rear three plug wires is a PITA and you sure wouldn't want
to do it more than once.

As to CN wires I have no idea. The web site is magnecore.com you could find out from
there.

 Good luck  Jim berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:02:55 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: transfer case and syncros for sale

Small spline transfer case for sale.  Good condition.

Best offer.

I have two sets of 5 speed syncros (1,2,3,4)  Don't have 5th or reverse
though.

Paid 230.00 each, sell for the same plus shipping.

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:05:02 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

I have to pipe in here and point out that this sounds
awfully similar to the TurboZet that Rommel and I installed
in his SL.  Perhaps you should check out the results from
our experimenting with this before you plunk down coin for
this device.

http://www.3si.org/turbozet.htm

Rich
- ---------------------------------------------------
> I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system
> that fits in the intake tube, and it has a switch that
> you are supposed to mount under the gas peddle so that it
> activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie it into the TPS,
> or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI,
> will I need any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
> #311
- --
"If you dig it, do it.
 If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce  (1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:16:59 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question


> I have to pipe in here and point out that this sounds
> awfully similar to the TurboZet that Rommel and I installed
> in his SL.  Perhaps you should check out the results from
> our experimenting with this before you plunk down coin for
> this device.
>
> http://www.3si.org/turbozet.htm
>
> Rich
> ---------------------------------------------------
> > I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system
> > that fits in the intake tube, and it has a switch that
> > you are supposed to mount under the gas peddle so that it
> > activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie it into the TPS,
> > or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> > effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI,
> > will I need any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Matt
> > #311
> --
> "If you dig it, do it.
>  If you really dig it, do it twice"
> - Jim Croce  (1943-1973)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:13 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: transfer case and syncros for sale

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brad Bedell <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 2:02 PM
Subject: Team3S: transfer case and syncros for sale


> Small spline transfer case for sale.  Good condition.
>
> Best offer.
>
> I have two sets of 5 speed syncros (1,2,3,4)  Don't have 5th or reverse
> though.
>
> Paid 230.00 each, sell for the same plus shipping.
>
> > Brad
> Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> > E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:25 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:56 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs


> > That's too bad the 10mm Magnecor won't fit the VR4; I have the 10mm in
my
> > Buick Grand National and would have liked to swap and see if they worked
on
> > the VR4!
> >
> > Thanks for your input, Jim & Roger!
> >
> > By the way, has anyone heard of the Magnecor CN series?
> =================================================================
> I doubt that a Buick spark plug wire could be used, as the connector on
the
> spark plug end is rather complex and to my knowledge there is no standard.
> Also changing the rear three plug wires is a PITA and you sure wouldn't
want
> to do it more than once.
>
> As to CN wires I have no idea. The web site is magnecore.com you could
find out from
> there.
>
>  Good luck  Jim berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:28 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft prices

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Aso8@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: <Aso8@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft prices


> Please, kill this question. I had to ordered it. I Can't find one used.
> Thanks
> Arty
>
> In a message dated 5/24/99 7:42:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Aso8@aol.com
> writes:
>
> << ubj: Team3S: Crankshaft prices
>  Date: 5/24/99 7:42:35 AM Pacific Daylight Time
>  From: Aso8@aol.com
>  Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>  Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>  To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>  CC: Aso8@aol.com
>
>  Tallah Mitsubishi can sell me the new 94 type crankshaft for $675.89
>  with my list discount.
>  Can I get this cheeper anyplace else?
>  Arty 91 VR-4 >>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:32 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:41 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs


> In a message dated 5/24/99 12:16:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
> fastmax@home.com writes:
>
> << Yes the 8.5mm wires are more then sufficient for our cars --- the 10mm
are
>  overkill, they wont fit in the stock wire looms, they cost more, and they
> provide
>  no additional benefit [ maybe they look cool - size does count ]. >>
>
>
> That's too bad the 10mm Magnecor won't fit the VR4; I have the 10mm in my
> Buick Grand National and would have liked to swap and see if they worked
on
> the VR4!
>
> Thanks for your input, Jim & Roger!
>
> By the way, has anyone heard of the Magnecor CN series?
>
> Ahmed - '92 VR4  -
> GReddy Profec B, GReddy turbo timer, SPI boost gauge with Pillar pod,
Alamo
> DP, Borla exhaust, Apex'i Blow-off valve, KVR Cross drilled rotors, Eibach
> Springs (not installed yet)  & K&N filtercharger.
> Coming soon:  New tranny and transfer case, Magnecor KV85 wires (maybe CN
> series?) and new re-gapped NGK plugs!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:34 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Omar Malik <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 3:20 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: TPS question


> The TPS is variable voltage. the switch that comes with the system is
either
> 'on' or 'off.' with the right wiring and relays, i'm sure it could be set
> up. You can get an RPM activated switch from places like JEGs, they go for
> about $50 .BOV is used to protect turbos from compressor surge. in a 1 PSI
> system with no turbo, and the fan shutting off at anything but WOT, i
don't
> think a BOV is useful or would even work.
>
> Omar
> 92 r/t
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> > [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Michael Booker
> > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:41 AM
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> > Subject: Team3S: TPS question
> >
> >
> > I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
> > the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
> > under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
> > it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> > effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need
> > any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
> >
> > Matt
> > #311
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:38 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs


> >         I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of
us on
> > the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?
>
> Any wires are good enough, even new stock ones :) The KV85 are the one I
have.
>
> > And also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs
straight
> > from the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11
>
> Never heard of pregapped plugs for our need. HKS does them pregap but it
depends
> on how much do you want to pay.
>
> Regards
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:41 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs


>
> all,
> >
> > I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of us on
> > the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?
And
> > also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs straight
from
> > the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11
> =========================================================
> Yes the 8.5mm wires are more then sufficient for our cars --- the 10mm are
> overkill, they wont fit in the stock wire looms, they cost more, and they
provide
> no additional benefit [ maybe they look cool - size does count ].
> The plugs come pre gapped at about .045, but are easily regapped using a
plug
> gapping tool [ it grabs the ground electrode and allows you to bend it
carefully],
> as mentioned in a previous post, don't tap the electrode to adjust.
> Even though plugs are pregapped they should be checked anyway.
>
>
> Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
>                        K&N FPIK -- Magnecore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
>                            [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
>                                  GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
>                     Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:48 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question


> > I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
> > the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
> > under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
> > it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> > effectiveness and power?
>
> Tap into the the TPS signal and use a comparator circuit with a power step
to
> activate the ESC. The voltage reference should be around 5 volts.
>
> > Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need any kind of BOV ?
>
> This answer should be given by the manufacturer as this pressure pushes
the
> propeller the opposite side. 1-3psi is not a lot but the bearing (if any)
of the
> e-motor can be the weakest thing in the path.
>
> Good luck,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:51 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: Magnecor wires and spark plugs


> Hi all,
>
> I recall that Magnecor wires are the ones preferred by most of us on
> the list.  Is the model series called KV85 (from magnecor) for our cars?
And
> also, is there a way to get already pre-gapped (.033) NGK plugs straight
from
> the manufacturer?  I believe the part # is:  PFR6J-11
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ahmed - '92 VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:17:54 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:41 PM
Subject: Team3S: TPS question


> I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system that fits in
> the intake tube, and it has a switch that you are supposed to mount
> under the gas peddle so that it activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie
> it into the TPS, or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI, will I need
> any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:18:03 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Couple of questions (ECS and a shifting issue...)


> I have noticed that they usually POP really hard going in to
second.....and I
> have been told that is a syncro problem....but I don't know much....so the
> other guys will tell you.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:07:26 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TPS question

The one thing I do notice, is the tubozet goes after the MAS.  The device
which he is talking about, goes before it which means the air flow sensor
will be able to know of the increase and the computer will use it to it's
advantage.  I would assume this would be much better..

-----Original Message-----
From: Rich [mailto:rleroy@pacifier.com]
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 2:05 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

I have to pipe in here and point out that this sounds
awfully similar to the TurboZet that Rommel and I installed
in his SL.  Perhaps you should check out the results from
our experimenting with this before you plunk down coin for
this device.

http://www.3si.org/turbozet.htm

Rich
---------------------------------------------------
> I was looking at this new electronic supercharger system
> that fits in the intake tube, and it has a switch that
> you are supposed to mount under the gas peddle so that it
> activates at WOT. Is there a way to tie it into the TPS,
> or the tach so that I can have a wider range of
> effectiveness and power? Also, If it only pushes 1-3 PSI,
> will I need any kind of BOV? Thanks for the help.
>
> Matt
> #311
--
"If you dig it, do it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce  (1943-1973)
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:19:34 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TPS question

> The one thing I do notice, is the tubozet goes after the MAS.  The device
> which he is talking about, goes before it which means the air flow sensor
> will be able to know of the increase and the computer will use it to it's
> advantage.  I would assume this would be much better..

Either way the intake air flows through the MAS.  Shouldn't make a
difference either way from an air metering perspective.

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:33:17 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: I have some info on a good dealer

Ok guys, I just got some stuff for my car from Brian at GT PRO.  The
merchandise was excellent and the service far exceeded my expectations. I
know there was a lot of bad feelings, but you also can not believe
everything you hear.  He offered to help me install the stuff over the phone
at any time and any time I ask him a question I get a response in less then
24 hrs.  He also got me stuff way cheaper then Nexus and other places on the
net and if you are looking for something, I say give him a call.  I hope
nobody has been offended by this post and I only posted because I want to
try to help everyone get the best prices and service.  I am not affiliated
with Brian or GT Pro or GT Alley in any way. 
Later
Joshua

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:46:29 -0400
From: "Bob" <rvowell@erols.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: I have some info on a good dealer

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 2:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: I have some info on a good dealer


> Ok guys, I just got some stuff for my car from Brian at GT PRO.  The
> merchandise was excellent and the service far exceeded my expectations. I
> know there was a lot of bad feelings, but you also can not believe
> everything you hear.  He offered to help me install the stuff over the
phone
> at any time and any time I ask him a question I get a response in less
then
> 24 hrs.  He also got me stuff way cheaper then Nexus and other places on
the
> net and if you are looking for something, I say give him a call.  I hope
> nobody has been offended by this post and I only posted because I want to
> try to help everyone get the best prices and service.  I am not affiliated
> with Brian or GT Pro or GT Alley in any way.
> Later
> Joshua
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:35:45 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need some help guys

Ok I just got my new turbo timer/boost gauge but I seem to have forgotten my
> Japanese.  Anyone who can give me some English directions, I would really
> appreciate it.  I thought America was top dog and we forced everyone to
put
> directions in English...sheesh it isn't worth being a world power anymore.

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:38:46 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control

Anybody hear how we are doing on our group purchase?

Did we get all 20 folks to actually order a system?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:51:43 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: transfer case and syncros for sale

.
>
> I have two sets of 5 speed syncros (1,2,3,4)  Don't have 5th or reverse
> though.
>
> Paid 230.00 each, sell for the same plus shipping.
===================================================================
I' be interested in the synchros [ one set ] --- are they new ?? and what
does each set consist of. [ eg. is 1st to 2nd a three peice set or just the
bronze wear cone??

  jim Berry

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:20:36 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need some help guys

> Ok I just got my new turbo timer/boost gauge but I seem to have forgotten my
> Japanese.

If you tell us WHAT BRAND/TYPE do you have then I think someone can help you.
But it would help to know :)

Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:29:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: TPS question

> The one thing I do notice, is the tubozet goes after the MAS.  The device
> which he is talking about, goes before it which means the air flow sensor
> will be able to know of the increase and the computer will use it to it's
> advantage.  I would assume this would be much better..

Nonono, physics are physics and can't be tweaked ! Air flow is air flow and
there is no difference in sucking air after the MAS or blowing air before the
MAS. It's that simple :))

If the thing goes before the MAS ... where the heck should then a filter be
installed ????

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:21:27 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control

> Anybody hear how we are doing on our group purchase?
> Did we get all 20 folks to actually order a system?

GC should know !

// Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:00:37 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 92 Tranny & Transfer case available $2350.

IMO that's a bit on the high side fella's.  You can get a rebuilt tranny and transfer case for just about that (will have to add a shipping charge to that) from Kormex or MD Auto THAT DOESN'T HAVE 41,000 MILES ON IT.  It's your money though.
- --

On Mon, 24 May 1999 11:05:49   Aso8 wrote:
>East Street Automotive claims they have a 92 Tranny & transfer case with
>41000 miles on it from a 92 VR-4. They wanted $2350. if anybody is interested
>in it
>http://www.eaststreet.com/index.html
>Arty 91 VR-4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:55:59 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need some help guys

Sorry and you are right, it is a Blitz I think it is the only one which has
both built into one.

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 3:21 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need some help guys

> Ok I just got my new turbo timer/boost gauge but I seem to
have forgotten my
> Japanese.

If you tell us WHAT BRAND/TYPE do you have then I think
someone can help you.
But it would help to know :)

Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:04:50 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need some help guys

> Sorry and you are right, it is a Blitz I think it is the only one which has
> both built into one.

Ah, ok. I can scan the english version in four ya (and everybody who needs it).
Do you have the right harness ??

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:08:48 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 92 Tranny & Transfer case available $2350.

> IMO that's a bit on the high side fella's.  You can get a rebuilt
> tranny and transfer case for just about that (will have to add a
> shipping charge to that) from Kormex or MD Auto THAT DOESN'T HAVE
> 41,000 MILES ON IT.  It's your money though.

Yeah, one from MD Auto or Kormex might have more miles on it.  At least on
the parts they decide don't require replacement, which is likely most of the
transmission.

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:04:12 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need some help guys

I thought the harness which comes with it works?  Am I wrong?  Thanks for
nay info and I could really use the English thanks...

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 4:05 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need some help guys

> Sorry and you are right, it is a Blitz I think it is the
only one which has
> both built into one.

Ah, ok. I can scan the english version in four ya (and
everybody who needs it).
Do you have the right harness ??

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:20:13 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 92 Tranny & Transfer case available $2350.

> > IMO that's a bit on the high side fella's.  You can get a rebuilt
> > tranny and transfer case for just about that (will have to add a
> > shipping charge to that) from Kormex or MD Auto THAT DOESN'T HAVE
> > 41,000 MILES ON IT.  It's your money though.
>
> Yeah, one from MD Auto or Kormex might have more miles on it.  At least on
> the parts they decide don't require replacement, which is likely most of the
> transmission.

On the rebuilts, all parts should be within spec.  New bearings and
seals at a minimum.  Most likely shafts and sleeves too.  Plus you get a
12 month unlimited milage warranty (at least from MD).  A 41,000 mile
tranny & transfer case with no warranty seems very risky to me.  Who
knows how it was driven!?

- --
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #187
****************************

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