--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #184
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest Friday, May 21 1999 Volume 01 : Number 184

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:31:00 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????

Wayne,

I do have a TT so I will have to do the entire hub, which is probably
easier than pressing out the bearings anyway. Thanks for the advice, I
will let you know how the repair goes.

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [SMTP:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:20 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????

Actually, if it is a non-turbo (FWD) car, the bearings are sold seperatly
and have to be pressed on. Only on the TT models does it come as a complete
hub. You're right though, it's probably the easiest repair job on the
drivetrain. On the $$ side of things, you guys must be getting raped over
in Europe because the hub assembly is only $65 here in the states. You may
want to find a stateside source for you're parts....

Wayne

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:52:42 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????

I know price information is slightly off topic but you guys might want to know that I payed 157$ (65$ in US) for each front bearing/hub (no installation), and that was directly from Mitsu Sweden without the dealers %.

Mikael "raped" Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>

<SNIP> On the $$ side of things, you guys must be getting raped over
>in Europe because the hub assembly is only $65 here in the states. You may want to find a stateside source for you're parts....
>
>Wayne

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:59:52 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????

Kevin,
My only advise is to pull the ABS sensors out of the spindle so when the
axle gets moved around it does'nt damage the sensor. Other than that, it's
simple; Pull the wheel, caliper, rotor, and hub, in that order. The job
should take about 1 hour per side. Good luck...(not that luck is needed in
this case)

Wayne

At 08:31 AM 5/20/99 , you wrote:
>Wayne,
>
>I do have a TT so I will have to do the entire hub, which is probably
>easier than pressing out the bearings anyway. Thanks for the advice, I
>will let you know how the repair goes.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Kevin Schappell
>Auto Answers
>http://www.pacarsearch.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:15:10 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Team3S: Owners that have replaced their own clutch.

Anyone that has replaced their own clutch in their VR4/TT..i.e without
hoist, etc. I would appreciated it if you could email me privately about
your experiences.

I know that there was someone one the list that recently did this, but I
deleted the emails.

I don't have any problem with my mechanical skills(I think that I can tackle
the job). My concern is, being able to get the car high enough to get the
tranny out from under the car after it is removed.

Thanks,

Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager: 601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:20:35 -0500
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

Hello everyone,

Me and my "Minnesota 3/S" group are going drag racing on Saturday. Tomorrow
I'm making a trip to a Texaco station that sells racing gas. They have 100
octane unleaded and 110 octane leaded gas. My question is, can I use LEADED
racing gas?? What if I mix it half and half with 93 unleaded. Will this be
safe? I remember hearing of other people doing it. Or should I just stick
with 100 unleaded.

One more question. If I have a blended octane rating of close to 100, am I
safe running 17-18psi of boost? What if my blended rate is only 97 octane.
Then what is a safe level. With 93 octane, I keep the boost set at 15psi.
I know a lot of these topics have been talked about before, but I was hoping
to get more of a consensus on the subject. (good luck on a mailing list)

Thanks,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:28:26 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Valve needed.

Hello 3/S people!

From what I understand, most AWD 3/S cars came with an adjustable valve for
the exhaust from 91 to about 95(?). If any of you have upgraded your factory
exhaust, do you still have this section? It seems like it is connected to
the 1st muffler (and obviously the 2nd one, further away).

I would like to obtain at LEAST the valve section, cut off from the
mufflers. The electronic part near the gas tank would be nice too, but not
absolutely necessary. I am willing to pay shipping, and a little more if
necessary. I will also give a FREE 3/S CD manual (if you own a real manual
already). Thanks a lot!

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:32:05 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Small Hood Scoop

I stumbled upon Showcars-Bodyparts Unlimited.
They have a 8" naca duct that would be perfect
and hundreds of others.

http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/

Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:32:27 -0500
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Filter

Can someone please send me instructions on how to change the fuel filter on
a 94 VR-4. Got the filter at the dealer for like 33 bucks(most expensive
filter I've ever bought), but now I can't figure out how to change it.
Thanks in advance,
Gabriel Estrada
94 VR-4
92 GMC Typhoon

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:36:48 -0500 (CDT)
From: BDLSOO7@webtv.net (chris hill)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

i would like to ad to this question by asking is aviation ,or av gas
leaded or not,and is it safe for our cars? i have a friend at an airport
in texas that used to let me pump AV gas in my old big block mopar, and
that stuff was way,way over 100 octane, and it kicked some serious but,
just want to know if its safe for 3si's or not.
 chris hill
 91vr4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:45:30 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

I think the lead will fry your Cat. and oxygen sensors...

Chris

>
>i would like to ad to this question by asking is aviation ,or av gas
>leaded or not,and is it safe for our cars? i have a friend at an airport
>in texas that used to let me pump AV gas in my old big block mopar, and
>that stuff was way,way over 100 octane, and it kicked some serious but,
>just want to know if its safe for 3si's or not.
> chris hill
> 91vr4
>

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:58:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

> i would like to ad to this question by asking is aviation ,or av gas
> leaded or not,and is it safe for our cars? i have a friend at an airport

(my first teamlist post) :)

Leaded gas is not good for unleaded cars. I know that there are some
people have used leaded gas on rare occasions, and reported that it helps.
However, none of them have ever driven a car like a Japanese import sports
car.

(side note: An acquaintance of mine, who drives an older RX-7, has always
sworn that adding a little Marvel's mystery oil to his gas tank helps.
odd...)

I would wait until someone else tries it first.

Regards,
 Dennis

93 Stealth with a brother who is an airplane mechanic.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:27:43 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Report

Wow, this sounds very unsafe. What if you live in a city with bad potholes,
Chicago for example. In my truck I often hit holes deep enough to bottom
(top?) out the suspension. I think a travel limiter is called for. I used to
have one on my Torino for drag racing. Just a simple chain, or cable to keep
the front suspension from extending too far. It may not look the best, but I
don't like my suspension coming apart while I'm driving.
Just a thought.
Todd

> You must also make sure everything
> is aligned when coming off jacks. What I do is lower car until spring just
> barely touches but has almost no compression. I then jiggle it ( technical
> term) until it seats correctly into the adjustable collar as well as seating
> the top portion into the thicker portion of the piston.

- --
Todd Schmalzried q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:24:40 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

Someone else answered this to the point:
leaded gas will plug up you cats and foul
your O2 sensors. It will also leave residues
on other fuel system parts although using
once or twice shouldn't be a big deal, but
the first admonition makes this a moot point.

Aviation gas is leaded. They call the 100
octane low lead, but by automotive standards
it has a lot in it. The 140 octane has even
more in it.

So, unless you are using it in a strictly
racing car with no emissions equipment, stay
with no lead, IMHO.

Regards,
Lynn

"Gendron, Curt" wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> My question is, can I use LEADED racing gas??
> What if I mix it half and half with 93 unleaded.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:52:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Valve noise(?) at startup

> It sounded like it was coming from the transmission area. It would happen only
> after
> cold starts, and would dissipate once the engine started warming up. It was
> kind of
> an intermittent medium-pitched grinding sound, kind of like what a dry clutch
> release
> bearing should sound like, and was particularly prevalent on cold winter
> Michigan
> mornings. The sound would stop when I pushed the clutch pedal, and would start
> again
> when the pedal was released, so I assumed the problem was the clutch release
> bearing.

A lot of folks report this exact noise. Since it not the throw-out
bearing, it is most likely a bearing inside the tranny. I got my noise
to go away once for a few days after I filled my tranny with Redline
MT90 GL4. I left the front of the car on jack stands overnight. I
think that a bearing that normally gets splashed was soaking in the new
oil (lot of speculation here). Anyway the noise was completely absent
for a few days and I originally thought it was due to the Redline oil.
The noise did return a few days later though. I've had my noise for
30K.

- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:54:30 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

> Me and my "Minnesota 3/S" group are going drag racing on
> Saturday. Tomorrow I'm making a trip to a Texaco station
> that sells racing gas. They have 100 octane unleaded and
> 110 octane leaded gas. My question is, can I use LEADED
> racing gas?? What if I mix it half and half with 93 unleaded.
> Will this be safe? I remember hearing of other people doing
> it. Or should I just stick with 100 unleaded.

You'd need a test-pipe and have gutted out both pre-cats. If you keep the
cats on, the lead adheres to the cats and plugs them. I ran a couple tanks
through my Eclipse at the Diamond Star Shootout last year and my O2 sensor
survived just fine and I didn't notice any ill effects, other than the
coating of silverish lead on the 4" exhaust tip and back of my car. That
was with 115 octane leaded race fuel and 23 psi (in the GSX).

One tankful shouldn't be enough to hurt the O2 sensor, but I have heard that
it really does a number on your cats. Don't mix the gas if you can help it
as it drastically reduces the octane rating of the race fuel. Half and half
110 and 93 is more like 96 octane. What I did with my Eclipse last year was
to bring an empty 5-gallon gas can to the track. I put a hose on the return
fitting of the fuel pressure regulator and jumpered the fuel pump test
connector to the battery, pumping out the 93 octane into the empty can and
then pumped in the race fuel. :-)

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:19:49 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Small Hood Scoop

BTW their number is 800-397-7815 or 770-998-7777 for GA or 317-639-0725
for IN

On Thu, 20 May 1999 08:10:42 -0700 Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com> writes:
>Racer Warehouse in GA has a ton of scoops.
>
>On Wed, 12 May 1999 18:00:14 -0500 "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com> writes:
>>All,
>>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:16:15 -0700
From: Morgan Holly <morgan@popstudios.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Valve noise(?) at startup

I got the 100K mile warranty when I bought my car, so I'm gonna stick on
the dealer until he fixes it. I did find a service bulletin that speaks of
"valve noise at startup." My plan is to record the noise and show up at the
dealer with the tape blaring in the car radio ;)

I'll let you know what happens.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:17:26 +0100
From: "Moravek, David" <David.J.Moravek@wcom.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E4.A2614C22
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

SORRY but I can't change my format to non-HTML SORRY....

DON'T USE AV GAS OR LEADED FUEL.... Av gas as too many other additives =
in
the gas that will deposit in your engine and Fuels containing lead =
must be
used for off highway racing purposes only. Leaded fuels will damage
catalytic converters and oxygen sensors when used in vehicles expressly
designed for unleaded fuels. Leaded fuels deteriorate quickly when =
exposed
to direct sunlight. Keep storage containers and gas tanks sealed =
tightly at
all times, and place them in a cool environment away from ultra-violet
light. Plus the Trick fuel has a 105 Octane and your engine runs =
cooler.
You will also notice it called "trick racing GASOLINE" and not FUEL =
that is
because Trick is a very refined gas and they hate it when you call it =
fuel
:-). Also if you are looking for a gas that is leaded they have fuel =
that
the Octane is 118 (WOW)

But I do that the answer "TRICK RACING GASOLINE"

They can be found at http://trick.com/ <http://trick.com/> ( call =
them to
find a company that sells it in your city 800-444-1449 )

I live in Colorado Springs and most every racer at the Pikes Peak Hill =
Climb
- - runs this fuel. =20

They have a GREAT UNLEADED Gasoline

TRICK Performance Unleaded

Street legal gasoline that is excellent in muscle cars, showroom stock =
road
racing, sport bikes, circle track and performance
highway applications. Will not damage catalytic converters, knock =
sensors
or oxygen sensors. A must for all street rods!=20
Meets California Phase II Reformulated Gasoline regulations.

Research Octane (R.O.N.) 105
Motor Octane (M.O.N.) 95
Anti-Knock Index (R+M/2) 100
Reid Vapor Pressure 6.9
Distillation Curve (=BAF)
 -Initial Boiling Point 110
- -10% 175
- -50% 211
- -90% 230
- -End Point 260
Tetra Ethyl Lead (gm/gal) 0.0
Specific Gravity .7525
Color Clear

-----Original Message-----
From: William Lynn Larsen [mailto:wlarsen@ibm.net]
<mailto:[mailto:wlarsen@ibm.net]>=20
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 10:25 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>=20
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

Someone else answered this to the point:
leaded gas will plug up you cats and foul your O2 sensors.
It will also leave residues on other fuel system parts although using =
once
or twice shouldn't be a big deal, but the first admonition makes this a =
moot
point.
Aviation gas is leaded. They call the 100 octane low lead,
but by automotive standards it has a lot in it. The 140 octane has even =
more
in it.
So, unless you are using it in a strictly racing car with no
emissions equipment, stay with no lead, IMHO.
Regards,
Lynn
"Gendron, Curt" wrote:
>=20
> Hello everyone,
>=20
> My question is, can I use LEADED racing gas?? =20
> What if I mix it half and half with 93 unleaded.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm =
<http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>=20

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E4.A2614C22
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2569.0">
<TITLE>RE: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

SORRY but I can't change my format to =
non-HTML SORRY....


DON'T USE AV GAS OR LEADED FUEL.... Av =
gas as too many other additives in the gas that will deposit in your =
engine and  Fuels containing =
lead must be used for off highway racing purposes only.  Leaded =
fuels will damage catalytic converters and oxygen sensors =
when used in vehicles expressly designed for unleaded fuels.  =
Leaded fuels deteriorate quickly when exposed to direct =
sunlight.  Keep storage containers and gas tanks sealed tightly at =
all times, and place them in a cool environment away from ultra-violet light. Plus the Trick =
fuel  has a 105 Octane and your engine runs cooler. You will also =
notice it called "trick racing GASOLINE" and =
not FUEL that is because Trick is a very refined gas and =
they hate it when you call it fuel J.  Also if you are =
looking for a gas that is leaded they have fuel that the Octane is 118 =
(WOW)
 

But I do that the answer "TRICK RACING =
GASOLINE"


They can be found at <A =
HREF=3D"http://trick.com/">http://trick.com/</A>   ( call them to find a company that sells it =
in your city 800-444-1449 )


I live in Colorado Springs and most =
every racer at the Pikes Peak Hill Climb - runs this fuel.  =



 They have a GREAT UNLEADED =
Gasoline


TRICK Performance Unleaded


 Street legal gasoline that is =
excellent in muscle cars, showroom stock road racing, sport bikes, =
circle track and performance

 highway applications.  Will =
not damage catalytic converters, knock sensors or oxygen =
sensors.   A must for all street rods! 

 Meets California Phase II =
Reformulated Gasoline regulations.


Research Octane (R.O.N.)        105
 Motor Octane (M.O.N.)   =
        95
 Anti-Knock Index (R+M/2) =
       100
 Reid Vapor Pressure              &nb=
sp;   6.9
  Distillation Curve =
(=BAF)
    -Initial Boiling =
Point =
              110
 -10%        &nbsp=
;           =
        =
        175
 -50%        &nbsp=
;           =
        =
         211
 -90%        &nbsp=
;           &nbsp=
;          =
     230
 -End Point          &nb=
sp;           &nb=
sp;       260
 Tetra Ethyl Lead (gm/gal) =
      0.0
 Specific Gravity          &nb=
sp;          =
   .7525
 Color          &nb=
sp;           &nb=
sp;            =
Clear

 
 
 
 
<UL><UL><UL><UL><UL>
<A NAME=3D"_MailData">-----Original =
Message-----</A>
</UL></UL></UL>
From:   William Lynn =
Larsen <A =
HREF=3D"mailto:[mailto:wlarsen@ibm.net]">[mailto:wlarsen@ibm.net]</A>
 Sent:   Thursday, May 20, 1999 10:25 AM
 To:     <A =
HREF=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com</A>
 Subject:       =
 Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas =
safe?


Someone else answered this to the =
point:
 leaded gas will plug up you cats and =
foul your O2 sensors. It will also leave =
residues on other fuel system parts although =
using once or twice shouldn't be a big =
deal, but the first admonition makes this a moot =
point.

Aviation gas is leaded. They call the =
100 octane low lead, but by automotive standards it =
has a lot in it. The 140 octane has even more in =
it.

So, unless you are using it in a =
strictly racing car with no emissions equipment, =
stay with no lead, IMHO.
<UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL><UL>
Regards,
 Lynn
</UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL></UL>
"Gendron, Curt" wrote:
 >=20
 > Hello everyone,
 >=20
 > My question is, can I use =
LEADED racing gas??  
 > What if I mix it half and =
half with 93 unleaded.
 For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our =
web page is <A =
HREF=3D"http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm">http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm</A>

</UL></UL>
</BODY>
</HTML>
- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E4.A2614C22--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:32:11 +0100
From: "Moravek, David" <David.J.Moravek@wcom.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Filter

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E6.B166DC9E
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Okay

1) you have to un-pressurize your fuel system. Take your spare tire out
and open up the cover that leads to your fuel tank. There you will find =
an
electrical connection that you need to unplug. Then try to start your =
car,
if it starts let it run until it dies.
2) Remove your battery.=20
3) Remove your windshield wiper tank
4) You might have to remove your air cleaner and all the extra crap.
5) Get a rag
6) Use 2 wrenched to take the high pressure line off the top. I think a
=BE inch will work
7) Remove the lower line
8) Remove the filter from the holding clamp
9) Do everything in reverse

Yes the filter is costly, I got my for about 25 from Pep Boys.
If your "check engine light comes on after the install. Your computer =
will
be reading a 12 the air flow sensor that would be because your sensor =
was
disconected. To clear the code, just keep the positive cable off the
battery. You will not get have to do this, if you make sure the last =
thing
you do is connect the battery.=20

David Moravek

-----Original Message-----
From: Gabriel Estrada [mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 8:32 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Filter

Can someone please send me instructions on how to change the
fuel filter on
a 94 VR-4. Got the filter at the dealer for like 33
bucks(most expensive
filter I've ever bought), but now I can't figure out how to
change it.
Thanks in advance,
Gabriel Estrada
94 VR-4
92 GMC Typhoon

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E6.B166DC9E
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DISO-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2569.0">
<TITLE>RE: Team3S: Fuel Filter</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

Okay


<OL TYPE=3D1><LI>you have to =
un-pressurize your fuel system. Take your spare tire out and open up =
the cover that leads to your fuel tank. There you will find an =
electrical connection that you need to unplug. Then try to start your =
car, if it starts let it run until it dies.</LI>
<LI>Remove your battery. </LI>
<LI>Remove your windshield wiper =
tank</LI>
<LI>You might have to remove your air =
cleaner and all the extra crap.</LI>
<LI>Get a rag</LI>
<LI>Use 2 wrenched to take the high =
pressure line off the top. I think a =BE inch will work</LI>
<LI>Remove the lower line</LI>
<LI>Remove the filter from the holding =
clamp</LI>
<LI>Do everything in reverse</LI>
 
</OL>
Yes the filter is costly, I got my for =
about 25 from Pep Boys.
 If your "check engine light comes on =
after the install. Your computer will be reading a 12 the air flow =
sensor that would be because your sensor was disconected. To clear the =
code, just keep the positive  cable off the battery.  You =
will not get have to do this, if you make sure the last thing you do is =
connect the battery. 
 

David Moravek

<UL><UL>
<A NAME=3D"_MailData">-----Original =
Message-----</A>
 From:   Gabriel Estrada =
[<A =
HREF=3D"mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net">mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net</=
A>]
 Sent:   Thursday, May 20, 1999 8:32 AM
 To:     stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Subject:       =
 Team3S: Fuel Filter


Can someone please send me =
instructions on how to change the fuel filter on
 a 94 VR-4.  Got the filter at =
the dealer for like 33 bucks(most expensive
 filter I've ever bought), but now I =
can't figure out how to change it.
 Thanks in advance,
 Gabriel Estrada
 94 VR-4
 92 GMC Typhoon


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our =
web page is <A HREF=3D"http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm" =
TARGET=3D"_blank">http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm</A>

</UL></UL>
</BODY>
</HTML>
- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA2E6.B166DC9E--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:05:34 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag & MD Auto

> I'm not familiar with the term transfer spool --- Is it the same as the bronze coated
> " cones " that are part of the synchro assembly [ Inner ring --- cone --- outer ring ---
> synchronizer ring and hub ].

Nope. I think it is the shaft in the transfer case that has the female
end that accepts the output shaft from the tranny.

> I would like to know the price of the bootleg sets that were extracted from Getrag
> and what they consisted of. E.g.. did they include the sleeve and hub -- and was
> second gear available --- When the synchro goes out the sleeve often causes wear

Well, the sets that Jack was able to obtain from Getrag cost about $110
a set, and there are three sets. It sounded like the sychro sets
actually had a bunch of parts.

Also remember whatever was implied ;), I didn't say they were bootleg
parts from Getrag. He didn't absolutely confirm his source or the
synchro manufacturer for fear of having his European pipeline to parts
shut off. Even though it would be nice to be able to buy all synchro
sets for $350, I think that we should be happy knowing that his rebuilt
trannys will have the out-of-spec synchros (NOT ALL) replaced with NEW
ones. Also I think we should respect his wishes and refrain from
speculating or saying that he has access to Getrag parts in a public
forum.

> Also, the term OEM quality is a little disconcerting --- I have an aftermarket warranty
> and I'd like to think I'd get OEM parts. [ now that I think about it maybe I don't want
> OEM parts ].

The reason I asked about this was because people were asking if a better
than OEM tranny or parts could be obtained. He only confirmed that the
bearings are actually better. His thoughts are that an OEM or his
rebuilt tranny will need to be replaced every 60K either due to a worn
shaft or synchros :(. He also seemed to think that there aren't enough
units in the field to inspire a fabricator to provide aftermarket parts
like synchros. However if that were the case, why can we get
aftermarket shafts and transfer spools? I think it is still a good idea
to pursue trying to get synchros and other parts fabricated. At least
the bearings and seals are affordable from MD Auto and the shafts &
transfer spools too even though they seem way too expensive.

- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:36:50 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Valve noise(?) at startup

Ken:

>A lot of folks report this exact noise. Since it not the throw-out
>bearing, it is most likely a bearing inside the tranny. I got my
>noise
>to go away once for a few days after I filled my tranny with Redline
>MT90 GL4.

<snip>

I've had a lot of noises. The first one was two months after clutch, TOB
and pressure plate were replaced. They replaced the TOB. Recently,
another different one showed up, heard when the pedal was on the way back
up and when the car was in neutral, with e- brake on (found this one at
lunch the other day, moving the kids bikes. Since I cannot hear the one
described, I am not sure if they are the same. But, I can offer they are
changing the pressure plate today.

Good luck,

Scott
___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:38:00 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag & MD Auto

>Also remember whatever was implied ;), I didn't say they were bootleg
>parts from Getrag. He didn't absolutely confirm his source or the
>synchro manufacturer for fear of having his European pipeline to parts
>shut off. Even though it would be nice to be able to buy all synchro
>sets for $350, I think that we should be happy knowing that his rebuilt
>trannys will have the out-of-spec synchros (NOT ALL) replaced with NEW
>ones. Also I think we should respect his wishes and refrain from
>speculating or saying that he has access to Getrag parts in a public
>forum.

That's for sure on the release of parts like these - where they come from. In all my searches, once a location is found, very shortly after that, it goes dry. So, if want to keep this thing going - PARTS AVAILABILITY - then we have to keep it amongst the group in private, NOT PUBLIC.

>> Also, the term OEM quality is a little disconcerting --- I have an aftermarket warranty
>> and I'd like to think I'd get OEM parts. [ now that I think about it maybe I don't want
>> OEM parts ].
>
>The reason I asked about this was because people were asking if a better
>than OEM tranny or parts could be obtained. He only confirmed that the
>bearings are actually better. His thoughts are that an OEM or his
>rebuilt tranny will need to be replaced every 60K either due to a worn
>shaft or synchros :(. He also seemed to think that there aren't enough
>units in the field to inspire a fabricator to provide aftermarket parts
>like synchros. However if that were the case, why can we get
>aftermarket shafts and transfer spools? I think it is still a good idea
>to pursue trying to get synchros and other parts fabricated. At least
>the bearings and seals are affordable from MD Auto and the shafts &
>transfer spools too even though they seem way too expensive.
>

I wouldn't mind having a tranny go 60k miles. For most of us that's equivalent to 4-5 years. It's much better than 4,200; 47,000; and 84,000 miles repectively.

Terry Swift
'92 BLACK VR-4

>--
>How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!
>
>Ken Middaugh
>General Atomics
>San Diego
>(619) 455-4510
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:01:40 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: [none]

All of you NA people should check out www.electricsupercharger.com . They
have a very small electric powered supercharger that fits between the MAF
and your K&N. They CLAIM 4-6% HP increase.

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:14:11 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

> Thanks for the insights. One more question though. Why
> is the maximum boost on 93 octane fuel so low?

Well the problem is that a lot people use fuel to cool the chamber and with this
to prevent detonation. This will waste the energy in the fuel and washes out the
chamber. The Supra TT is running even more rich than our cars and that's why
almost every owner does have a Field AF computer installed.

> I know it is hard to do direct comparisons on other motors but I was
> always able to run 17-18 lbs boost on my Galant VR-4 as well as Supra TT.

Yes, and did you know if your timing got retarded ? Have you noticed some power
drops at the peak hp point ? The high speed knock is very hard to hear and I
heard it only once on my car on the dyno. But the dyno showed this the hard way
as increasing boost increased power until the timing got retarded. The curve got
a hard gap then !

Also ask the Supra TT people about what boost they have to run to achive a
proper power ? What our cars do on 15 psi Supra TT needs close to 18 psi. A
friend of mine is now running 22psi with some mods and boosting out around 450hp
now. Guess what our cars will do with this boost... It definitely depends on the
design of the engine and in our case knock is the biggest enemy we have :(

> I thought the low boost max was due to stock injector limits. If 15 lbs is
> the highest safe level, do you know about what horse power can be attained
> with the mods listed?

With 15psi of boost our cars have been dynoed up to 405 SAE hp (engine, SAE
corrected). At 1.25bars of boost my peak was around 467hp DIN (around 500hp
SAE). Therefore with a good fuel system and a healthy engine, together with race
fuel you'll get a real fast car then !

Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:04:14 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

Sorry,
I almost forgot, don't have your cats. on the car when running LEADED
race gas.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:08:04 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag & MD Auto

I think we should all stop mentioning this so that Getrag doesn't put the
clamps down on his place. Remember Gear Centre? So lets be safe and
keep this great resource by trying to stick with private e mails to
people that you know.
Del

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:51:53 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/F gauges?

The Cyberdyne guages are pretty inacurate, that is one of the main
reasons for not a lot of talk about them here. Pretty much the best way
to go is to get a good E.G.T. guage (a lot of money). However a friend
of mine just installed the BRAND NEW Autometer Air/Fuel ratio guage. So
far after a week of testing, it seems VERY accurate.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:56:28 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

By the way,
my friend is currently running 19 to 20 psi on the street on 93oct. pump
gas, with the GForce ECU.
Del

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:54:47 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

Friend of mine has a GForce ECU in his '93 VR4. Didn't notice a whole
lot as far as 1/4 mile times go, however if your car feels like it still
has a kot left in the upper RPM range, moving the rev limiter up to
7500RPM's is a very nice feature. One other thing is that on his car the
timing does not feel like it gets retarded as much up top.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:02:09 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Is leaded racing gas safe?

Racing gas is safe but it can possibly lead to problems. The main
problems are 1-fouled out spark plugs(not a terrible thing, but not good
when our plugs are $70 a pop, and take too long to replace)
2-can burn out your cars o2 sensors. (Little pricey, and some labor)
Other than that no problems, you won't do any type of permanent damage.
In my experiences you can easily crank it to 18 to 21psi on 116oct. and
easily go 17 or 18psi on 100oct. unleaded.
Good luck at the track,
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:21:03 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/F gauges?

Very true, if you figgeling around with the fuel a good A/F meter is necessary.
The Cyberdyne is a simple voltmeter and the resolution is too low.

> Prior to buying my VR-4, I was heavily involved in the 4 Cyl Shelby-Dodge

Greetings from my old LeBaron 2.2T

> I do see a lot of mention of fuel cutouts, and the fact that our cars croak
> at the top end, are the A/F gauges not as necessary here due to the
> management systems? An inquiring mind needs to know :)

Fuel cut is initiated by the ECU jumping out of the fuel maps. If then someone
is installing injectors and fuel systems a fuel gauge is always somewhare
installed (or just a multimeter hoocked at the O2 sensors)

Regards,
Roger

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:21:11 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

Wayne...

I have a G-force ECU upgrade and somewhat similar set of mods (see signature
line). My experience with G-force has been mediocre. They have had trouble
creating an A/F map for me that works across the entire RPM range. HOWEVER,
I should be clear, I have chosen NOT to buy (yet) a AFC/VPC to separately
control the A/F ratio. My premise has been that, if the G-force claims are
accurate (they say they can program each 400 RPM step individually), there
should be no need for a separate controller. They (G-force) have agreed but,
at the point I blew one of my 15Gs, we were still running rich at the top
end of the range (4800 RPM and up).

Soooo, the jury (for me) is still out. It's debatable whether or not the ECU
mod (at $750) is a value add if I'm still going to have to install a AFC or
(preferably) VPC. What I did get was a "no limit rev limiter" and no speed
limiter (although some have hypothesized the latter doesn't exist). Why NO
rev limiter? I don't like the cut you get when you hit it. My guess is, with
the design of the crank, rods, and pistons on the 2nd gen engines, we should
easily run 8K RPM without problems. Why not have them program one at 8K? I
just felt it would be easier to have it removed completely. So far, I
haven't run it past 7500 RPM. As Roger pointed out, the question is, do we
still produce additional HP up there? Probably not, but it allow us to stay
in the top end of the power band after a shift.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

- -----Original Message-----
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com [mailto:TTurboAWD@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 6:04 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

 Hello all,
 Does anyone on the list have experience using g-force
ECU upgrades? Any feedback would be appreciated. I
want to use their ECU with 15g's, 550cc injectors, boost
controller, DP with hi-flo cat and gutted pre-cats and a
higher flowing fuel pump. I don't need to run more boost
than 93 octane will allow (~18 lbs?) and would like to keep
the stock cat-back. Anyone with a similar setup on the
list? Also, is there any benefit to taking the rev limiter
up to 7,500 rpm with just these mods?
 Thanks for any advice you can offer,
 Wayne 3SI #87
 '91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:23:46 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/F gauges?

Del, how much segments do the AutoMeter A/F gauges have ??

> However a friend of mine just installed the BRAND NEW Autometer Air/Fuel
> ratio guage. So far after a week of testing, it seems VERY accurate.

Thanks, Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:22:35 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

Del...

With an AFC or VPC?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Del A Kolasinski [mailto:pearlvr42c@juno.com]
Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 2:56 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

By the way,
my friend is currently running 19 to 20 psi on the street on 93oct. pump
gas, with the GForce ECU.
Del
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:55:06 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Report

> FWIW, I have had the GC system in my 93 VR4 for 3 months now. I ordered 650
> front / 500 rear WITH the camber plate kit for the fronts. Using G-Force R1's
> 255/45/17 on stock 17" rims, GAB adjustable shocks. Installation
> instructions did not make alot of sense, and some etc. etc.
==========================================================
Good input -- thanks
I'd like to know what shock settings you're using, for track and for street.
can you soften the ride on the street by backing off on the shocks??
Also do you keep 3 degree camber on the street ??

 Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:49:51 -0400
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!

My '93 Stealth Turbo has been flagged by Chrysler; sometime between the time
I bought it and last summer.

I know now that it was a recovered theft, but when I transferred the 7/70
warrantee right after buying it (different dealer) I got a copy of the
service records...no indication of any problem.

When I tried to have a minor problem fixed under the 7/70, they told me it
was listed as a SALVAGE car, and the warrantee is voided. Either the
paperwork to "flag" the car had not been done when it was originally stolen
and the insurance compny paid out as a total loss (it wasn't, just a bit
scraped and scratched up), or perhaps my insurance company had it flagged as
a SALVAGE because of my own accident...they had to pay out a total of
$22,000 to fix my car.

It wouldn't have been so much, if they hadn't discovered as they went along,
that they would have to use brand new parts almost exclusively instead of
salvaged ones off a junker. It rides and drives and looks perfect; one would
never know it had been wrecked. Even the tires don't show any sort of uneven
wear, and the AWD is just fine. I was lucky. The Camaro wasn't. :)

So I can commiserate with you on the flagged status of your car...my Dodge
dealer had no clue what the boost controller was, thought the extra wires
and harness were for some sort of aftermarket alarm system, and the box was
for the stereo. Oh yes, sure, great sounds, alright! Like *stereo* turbos,
or *quadrophonic* drive wheels contacting asphalt! They didn't even question
the exhaust...:)

They did, however, suggest they'd prefer never to see the car again, and let
'em have a peaceful life repairing minivans and Neons, since they weren't
obligated to fix it anymore.

Wretches.

Robyn

Central Office Technician
Bell Atlantic

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:20:14 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!

> My '93 Stealth Turbo has been flagged by Chrysler; sometime between the time
> I bought it and last summer.

> When I tried to have a minor problem fixed under the 7/70, they told me it
> was listed as a SALVAGE car, and the warrantee is voided.
=======================================================================

I don't think anybody will issue a warranty for a car with a salvage title!!
I know two people who had the same problem.Their attitude is, if you
don't like it, take your business elsewhere.

Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:03:09 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: Valve noise.....could it be the tensioner belt??

Is the noise a squeking noise??? If so....my car does it....and I think it
is the tensioner belt......I think the tensioner belt loosens up when
heated....and needs to be re-tightened every so often.... THIS IS A
POSSIBILITY....JUST MY IDEA!!!!! Mine squeeks.....warms up an goes
away.....I am pretty sure it has something to do with my tensioner
belt.......get up under your car when it is running......you might see what I
mean.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:05:46 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

Chris,
My friend is currently running the AFC with his GForce ECU but ordered a
VPC last Friday to replace it with. Not that he didn't like the AFC, he
actually never got it tuned(just put on his car two weeks ago or so, he
just plans on doing more in the future so he wanted the VPC plus getting
rid of the MAS always helps the intake.
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:03:17 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/F gauges?

Roger,
The Autometer A/F guage goes from extreme lean all the way to extreme
rich. It has 3 different colored segments(each segment almost an inch)
but each segment has a lot of space in it. A light moves through the
segment bars to indicate where you are. At first I thought it was going
to be just as cheesy as the Cyberdyne unit, but so far it is dead on. So
far under initial throttle and a boost spike, it goes down into the
fairly lean area and slowly rises until you get into the upper RPM's
where it goes pretty rich because the pump is now spewing out as much
fuel as it can. Kind of hard to explain, and my explanation wasn't that
great but it seems to be great so far.
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:31:37 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A/F gauges?

Is it still using the O2 sensor input, the same as the Cyberdyne? I'm
getting the impression our VR's run solely from the ECU maps, and aren't
adaptive, as the Shelby ones are..

Thanks!!

Roger

- -----Original Message-----
From: Del A Kolasinski [mailto:pearlvr42c@juno.com]
Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 8:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/F gauges?

Roger,
The Autometer A/F guage goes from extreme lean all the way to extreme
rich. It has 3 different colored segments(each segment almost an inch)
but each segment has a lot of space in it. A light moves through the
segment bars to indicate where you are. At first I thought it was going
to be just as cheesy as the Cyberdyne unit, but so far it is dead on. So
far under initial throttle and a boost spike, it goes down into the
fairly lean area and slowly rises until you get into the upper RPM's
where it goes pretty rich because the pump is now spewing out as much
fuel as it can. Kind of hard to explain, and my explanation wasn't that
great but it seems to be great so far.
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:55:59 +0200
From: "Grant McFarlane (EUS)" <EUSGTME@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Team3S: extended warranty

Does anyone have any recommendations for an extended warranty company for my '93 VR-4. I've just been refused by the folks at http://www.warrantydirect.com and http://www.warrantygold.com because it's a VR-4.

Thanks,
Grant.

P.S. Is this message formatted in HTML ? If so, sorry. I don't know how to turn it off in outlook.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:54:54 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: extended warranty

If you find one please let me know who.. I've tried, and tried, and tried.
Even the Obscure warranty companies. They run like scalded dogs when they
hear "VR-4"

Regards,
Roger
94 Black VR-4

Nope, your message wasn't in HTML :)

Does anyone have any recommendations for an extended warranty company for my
'93 VR-4. I've just been refused by the folks at
http://www.warrantydirect.com and http://www.warrantygold.com because it's a
VR-4.

Thanks,
Grant.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:16:34 -0400
From: David Nacamuli <dnacamu1@twcny.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: extended warranty

I have one on a 1995 VR-4 from WG warranty. It was purchased through Auto
Advantage

http://www.autowarranties.com/

Can't hurt to see if they still sell them for our cars. Mine was $1360.00
for 6 years 100,000 miles no deductible. It has paid for itself (1 oil
cooler replacement, ABS problem that cost $1800 to fix).

Good luck

Dave Nac

At 08:54 PM 5/20/99 -0400, you wrote:
>If you find one please let me know who.. I've tried, and tried, and tried.
>Even the Obscure warranty companies. They run like scalded dogs when they
>hear "VR-4"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:26:00 -0500
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: extended warranty

You can try Ryan, I have my Warranty through them, plus we use Universal her
at our dealership, and I believe that they offer warranties. If you are
interested, let me know and I'll see if I can get you a deal through our F&I
Dept.
Gabe Estrada
94 VR-4
92 Typhoon
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 7:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: extended warranty

> If you find one please let me know who.. I've tried, and tried, and tried.
> Even the Obscure warranty companies. They run like scalded dogs when they
> hear "VR-4"
>
> Regards,
> Roger
> 94 Black VR-4
>
> Nope, your message wasn't in HTML :)
>
>
> Does anyone have any recommendations for an extended warranty company for
my
> '93 VR-4. I've just been refused by the folks at
> http://www.warrantydirect.com and http://www.warrantygold.com because it's
a
> VR-4.
>
> Thanks,
> Grant.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:50:27 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

In a message dated 5/20/99 6:12:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
robby@swissonline.ch writes:

<< Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT >>
 Roger,
 Thanks again for the help.
 Wayne 3SI #87
 '91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:05:53 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

 Chris,
 Thanks for the info. Have you run your car in the
1/4 mile? If so, what kind of trap speeds did you get?
What boost do you run on 93 octane gas?
 Thanks,
 Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:07:49 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

> > I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to send them.
> > Bryan
> =====================================================
> Thanks much --- I received the parts Monday and took them over to the fabricator
> Tuesday. I only have some preliminary info at this point but will try to post to the
> team in the next day or so.
=======================================================

I took the set of used synchros, along with a second gear to Mueller Fabricators,
at this point I only have some preliminary observations.
He [Mueller ] really seems to be knowledgeable in the fabrication of automotive
parts. His shop sells billet flywheels and pressure plates plus other miscellaneous
stuff. When I was there his shop [ fairly small ] was doing parts for the Honda race
team. When I explained our problem he said he thought somebody back east was
working on it [ he'll do some checking ]. In addition since he's been involved in the
manufacture of OEM parts for many manufacturers he has some contacts he'll
check with.
His observations on our parts --- sure no problem --- how much do you want to
spend. Herein lies the problem, fabrication of a part from scratch is expensive.
The 1st /2nd synchro consists of -- first gear - outer ring - cone [ bronze coated ] -
inner ring - synchronizer sleeve and hub - inner ring - cone - outer ring - second
gear. In the case of the used parts I got from Bryan the bad parts were the
second gear cone and the second gear. The bronze coated cone was badly
worn and the synchronizer sleeve had chipped the matching " teeth" on the
second gear. If your second is going out shift easy and match revs as often
as possible to minimize damage to second gear.
To make the assembly, inner/cone/outer, would be several hundred dollars
per set in low volume. However, he said that he could 'probably' clean the
bronze off of the cone, have it recoated, machine it and polish the inner and
outer ring. The cost is still probably $100 per set and you need a set for each
bad gear. The $100 is based on ten sets plus you must have cores.
In addition some one time front end costs are present, metallurgist, jigs,setup time.
The portion of the second gear that meshes with the synchro sleeve needs to be
replaced. It needs tooling, and setup then the removal of the old "teeth" fabrication
of new and rewelding onto the second gear. No cost at this point.

In the set I had, first was in good shape, second was shot, third was in bad shape
and forth was good. The third forth setup has less parts but nonetheless two sets
would be needed plus a new/repaired second gear.

some observations ---
his first reaction when seeing the parts was-- no wonder, the gear [ second ] is
way to heavy for the size of the synchro. He would cut the weight of the gear in
half [no additional information as to how at this point ].

Rev matching will extend the life of the synchro [ learn to do it as a part of your
daily driving ].

A light weight flywheel will allow the engine to slow faster and cause less stress
on the synchros [ a bit of a plug by him -- he sells them ]. In the same vein I assume
the low compression ratio for our turbo car causes the same problem.

I'm convinced that Muiller could build what we need --- however what price are we
willing to pay? How to get front money, probably several hundred dollars.

What other action is going on -- east coast parts are they or aren't they?

 Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:24:12 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hood Scoops

Hey guys, I was bored tonight so I took my hood bumps off and drove around
for a while. Really seemed to help the engine breath better and I felt a
seat of the pants difference. I also noticed the engine temp drop a little.
( I could be seeing things though) I am going to pick up a temp. monitor
from Radio Shack tomorrow and test it both ways. Also while I had the bumps
off I traced them and I am going to draw them in my CAD system tomorrow.
There is enough room to get a 4" tube in front of the strut tower if I cut
part of the hood away under the bump. Do you think this is enuff to feed
the engine. I plan on making a custom scoop and routing the tube to either
the air box or making a box to feed a K&N filter. Is there something about
the stock box that is restrictive? I think if I just got the drop-in K&N
filter and plumb the cold air into the stock air box this would be a good
start. Also it occured to me that the car would benefit from an air outlet
on the backside of the scoop to vent the hot underhood air. Any opinions on
that? Once I get a design done, I will post it on my server so you guys can
comment on the look of it. Once I get something I like, I plan on getting
it made in plastic or fiberglass.

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:48:27 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Hi Jim;

Would you explain rev matching in a manner that even the great unwashed could understand.
Tips are always helpful for mechanical longevity and we have lots of lurkers.

On another note, Kormex Transmissions (Frank) 1-800-429-5464, which Jack posted on sometime
back, make hardened shafts/splines for our cars. I believe they're out east and a query
there may find if they have other things available. Some 800 numbers do not work from up here
in the Great White North.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:23:42 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

Wayne,
We and others have had good success with 15gs and g-force ecus. I would
recommend 720 injectors since 15gs can easily max out 550s and not much if
any difference in price. Email privately or call 301 824 3337 for low prices
on all of above.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com <TTurboAWD@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:07 PM
Subject: Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade

> Hello all,
> Does anyone on the list have experience using g-force
>ECU upgrades? Any feedback would be appreciated. I
>want to use their ECU with 15g's, 550cc injectors, boost
>controller, DP with hi-flo cat and gutted pre-cats and a
>higher flowing fuel pump. I don't need to run more boost
>than 93 octane will allow (~18 lbs?) and would like to keep
>the stock cat-back. Anyone with a similar setup on the
>list? Also, is there any benefit to taking the rev limiter
>up to 7,500 rpm with just these mods?
> Thanks for any advice you can offer,
> Wayne 3SI #87
> '91 Stealth TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:48:31 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

> On another note, Kormex Transmissions (Frank) 1-800-429-5464, which Jack posted on sometime
> back, make hardened shafts/splines for our cars. I believe they're out east and a query
> there may find if they have other things available. Some 800 numbers do not work from up here
> in the Great White North.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

Darc:

One of the people from Kormex placed a post at the 3SI website. They
intend to start making their own synchros, and hopefully will have some
available by the end of June. I talked to them months ago, and they kept
saying that "they were expecting them any minute". Well, the minutes
turned into hours, then days, then.....well you get it.

In any case, in the web post , the Kormex guy (Frank) indicated that
someone had kept CLAIMING they could provide the parts, but they never
came through (explaining the constant delays). That's when they decided
to start making their own. He also indicated that the quality of the
Getrag parts appears to be very inconsistent....I think he mentioned the
hardness of the metal parts varying considerably from transaxle to
transaxle. They do not have all the parts yet, but they do seem to be
looking into it.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:40:40 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Kormex is in Ontario, CA - just up the road from MD Auto in San Diego. Yes, they too offer shafts / splines, etc - BUT NO SYNCHROS YET. Frank did post a message on the board, and they are currently working on the 1-2 gears, since that seems to be the major problem areas.

Trying to get all these messages (and their content) straight. Am I right in saying the bottom line is, when you experience GEAR CLASH, it's NOT the teethed synchro pieces that's going bad, but another piece in that 3-ring set - an intermediate ring. If that's the case, then why can't we just replace those pieces, instead of the whole set.

I ask, since my clash problem was originally in 1st gear (not real noticeable or a problem to me, as downshifting into 1st doens't happen as much), but after my rebuild by a national tranny chain - Lee Myles - the problem got moved to 2nd, so it's now a MAJOR ISSUE, as I get it both upshifting and downshifting into 2nd. To top it all off, the tranny was replaced twice before (under warranty) for the exact same problem - when I bought it a year ago with 71,000 miles, it had the problem then - after being replaced last at 47,000 miles. And yes, Mitsu claims it has no reponsibility in any of this, other than to rip me off further, buy selling me ANOTHER rebuilt (weak) unit for over $4k. I guess they think my pockets are full of cash.

'92 BLACK VR-4
(3 trannies, 1 transfer case, 1 engine (oil pump dumped/spun bearings), and who knows what else - can't read the service codes - can anybody help with that, as Mitsu spent alot of money during the warranty period fixing this car)

- --

On Thu, 20 May 1999 23:48:31 Bill Wagner wrote:
>> On another note, Kormex Transmissions (Frank) 1-800-429-5464, which Jack posted on sometime
>> back, make hardened shafts/splines for our cars. I believe they're out east and a query
>> there may find if they have other things available. Some 800 numbers do not work from up here
>> in the Great White North.
>>
>> Best
>>
>> Darc
>>
>

HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:56:01 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Hey Bill;

As an admin here, I don't peruse the other groups (one of the reasons we started this group) but I
can say I'm glad you do. This information is really encouraging and it sounds like at least two
places are, or shortly will be up to speed with parts and rebuilds for our trannies...maybe even
more outlets in the offing. The hardened parts Kormex indicates they will provide really sound
better than OME, and the Mueller (possible) redesign of gears which he says are too big for the
synchros involved (see Jim's post) even makes things more interesting. The dam has sprung a leak
for sure.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:03:44 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Two fronts here -

East Coast was Max in Brooklyn at NYMaxxNY@aol.com
West Coast was Frank in Ontario, CA at Kormex Trans Parts kormex@earthlink.net in CA 1-800-429-5464. They, according to Frank will have something available in June or the 1-2 gears for about $100 per set.

After looking thru all my notes on this issue (and there's lots of them), another company named Trico was mentioned (think they were in N.Y. as well, but hd no number for them).

Never heard anything else from Lance Aalten, The Gear Centre, up in Alberta. Guess his source dried up too.

My reco would be to hold off on the synchros, but maybe see what the 2nd gear redesign would be like, especially if this is the real cause of premature failure - cause we'll be back for more synchros in very short order. Can we get a signed letter from your source that the gear design is not sufficient for the synchros involved - I'd like to punch this back to Mitsu and Getrag for their inputs. This could also be VERY USEFUL in any future lawsuits, complaints, etc. that the design is truly flawed.

- --

On Thu, 20 May 1999 19:07:49 Jim Berry wrote:
>
>> > I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to send them.
>> > Bryan
>> =====================================================
>> Thanks much --- I received the parts Monday and took them over to the fabricator
>> Tuesday. I only have some preliminary info at this point but will try to post to the
>> team in the next day or so.
>=======================================================
>
>I took the set of used synchros, along with a second gear to Mueller Fabricators,
>at this point I only have some preliminary observations.
>He [Mueller ] really seems to be knowledgeable in the fabrication of automotive
>parts. His shop sells billet flywheels and pressure plates plus other miscellaneous
>stuff. When I was there his shop [ fairly small ] was doing parts for the Honda race
>team. When I explained our problem he said he thought somebody back east was
>working on it [ he'll do some checking ]. In addition since he's been involved in the
>manufacture of OEM parts for many manufacturers he has some contacts he'll
>check with.
>His observations on our parts --- sure no problem --- how much do you want to
>spend. Herein lies the problem, fabrication of a part from scratch is expensive.
>The 1st /2nd synchro consists of -- first gear - outer ring - cone [ bronze coated ] -
> inner ring - synchronizer sleeve and hub - inner ring - cone - outer ring - second
>gear. In the case of the used parts I got from Bryan the bad parts were the
>second gear cone and the second gear. The bronze coated cone was badly
>worn and the synchronizer sleeve had chipped the matching " teeth" on the
> second gear. If your second is going out shift easy and match revs as often
>as possible to minimize damage to second gear.
>To make the assembly, inner/cone/outer, would be several hundred dollars
>per set in low volume. However, he said that he could 'probably' clean the
>bronze off of the cone, have it recoated, machine it and polish the inner and
>outer ring. The cost is still probably $100 per set and you need a set for each
>bad gear. The $100 is based on ten sets plus you must have cores.
>In addition some one time front end costs are present, metallurgist, jigs,setup time.
>The portion of the second gear that meshes with the synchro sleeve needs to be
>replaced. It needs tooling, and setup then the removal of the old "teeth" fabrication
>of new and rewelding onto the second gear. No cost at this point.
>
>In the set I had, first was in good shape, second was shot, third was in bad shape
>and forth was good. The third forth setup has less parts but nonetheless two sets
>would be needed plus a new/repaired second gear.
>
>some observations ---
> his first reaction when seeing the parts was-- no wonder, the gear [ second ] is
> way to heavy for the size of the synchro. He would cut the weight of the gear in
> half [no additional information as to how at this point ].
>
>Rev matching will extend the life of the synchro [ learn to do it as a part of your
>daily driving ].
>
>A light weight flywheel will allow the engine to slow faster and cause less stress
>on the synchros [ a bit of a plug by him -- he sells them ]. In the same vein I assume
>the low compression ratio for our turbo car causes the same problem.
>
>I'm convinced that Muiller could build what we need --- however what price are we
>willing to pay? How to get front money, probably several hundred dollars.
>
>
>What other action is going on -- east coast parts are they or aren't they?
>
>
> Jim Berry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 01:56:34 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

DON'T SEND ANYTHING TO GETRAG OR MITSUBISHI!!!!! THOSE PRICKS WILL
PROBABLY HIRE A LEGAL TEAM TO "ENFORCE" THEIR PROPRIETARY POLICY. In
reality, I suspect they can't "enforce" ANYTHING legally, but I bet they
have enough clout to scare the hell out of some of the small companies
that are DOING US A BIG FAVOR!!!

The ONLY thing Mitsubishi and Getrag have demonstrated to me is that
they're willing to produce and rebuild CRAP and then shove it down the
throats of consumers.

Well, now that I'm in a bad mood again, I guess I can look forward to
losing several hours of sleep (again) over this issue.

Sorry for the language,

Bill Wagner

Terry Swift wrote:
>
> Two fronts here -
>
> East Coast was Max in Brooklyn at NYMaxxNY@aol.com
> West Coast was Frank in Ontario, CA at Kormex Trans Parts kormex@earthlink.net in CA 1-800-429-5464. They, according to Frank will have something available in June or the 1-2 gears for about $100 per set.
>
> After looking thru all my notes on this issue (and there's lots of them), another company named Trico was mentioned (think they were in N.Y. as well, but hd no number for them).
>
> Never heard anything else from Lance Aalten, The Gear Centre, up in Alberta. Guess his source dried up too.
>
> My reco would be to hold off on the synchros, but maybe see what the 2nd gear redesign would be like, especially if this is the real cause of premature failure - cause we'll be back for more synchros in very short order. Can we get a signed letter from your source that the gear design is not sufficient for the synchros involved - I'd like to punch this back to Mitsu and Getrag for their inputs. This could also be VERY USEFUL in any future lawsuits, complaints, etc. that the design is truly fla
>
> --
>
> On Thu, 20 May 1999 19:07:49 Jim Berry wrote:
> >
> >> > I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to send them.
> >> > Bryan
> >> =====================================================
> >> Thanks much --- I received the parts Monday and took them over to the fabricator
> >> Tuesday. I only have some preliminary info at this point but will try to post to the
> >> team in the next day or so.
> >=======================================================
> >
> >I took the set of used synchros, along with a second gear to Mueller Fabricators,
> >at this point I only have some preliminary observations.
> >He [Mueller ] really seems to be knowledgeable in the fabrication of automotive
> >parts. His shop sells billet flywheels and pressure plates plus other miscellaneous
> >stuff. When I was there his shop [ fairly small ] was doing parts for the Honda race
> >team. When I explained our problem he said he thought somebody back east was
> >working on it [ he'll do some checking ]. In addition since he's been involved in the
> >manufacture of OEM parts for many manufacturers he has some contacts he'll
> >check with.
> >His observations on our parts --- sure no problem --- how much do you want to
> >spend. Herein lies the problem, fabrication of a part from scratch is expensive.
> >The 1st /2nd synchro consists of -- first gear - outer ring - cone [ bronze coated ] -
> > inner ring - synchronizer sleeve and hub - inner ring - cone - outer ring - second
> >gear. In the case of the used parts I got from Bryan the bad parts were the
> >second gear cone and the second gear. The bronze coated cone was badly
> >worn and the synchronizer sleeve had chipped the matching " teeth" on the
> > second gear. If your second is going out shift easy and match revs as often
> >as possible to minimize damage to second gear.
> >To make the assembly, inner/cone/outer, would be several hundred dollars
> >per set in low volume. However, he said that he could 'probably' clean the
> >bronze off of the cone, have it recoated, machine it and polish the inner and
> >outer ring. The cost is still probably $100 per set and you need a set for each
> >bad gear. The $100 is based on ten sets plus you must have cores.
> >In addition some one time front end costs are present, metallurgist, jigs,setup time.
> >The portion of the second gear that meshes with the synchro sleeve needs to be
> >replaced. It needs tooling, and setup then the removal of the old "teeth" fabrication
> >of new and rewelding onto the second gear. No cost at this point.
> >
> >In the set I had, first was in good shape, second was shot, third was in bad shape
> >and forth was good. The third forth setup has less parts but nonetheless two sets
> >would be needed plus a new/repaired second gear.
> >
> >some observations ---
> > his first reaction when seeing the parts was-- no wonder, the gear [ second ] is
> > way to heavy for the size of the synchro. He would cut the weight of the gear in
> > half [no additional information as to how at this point ].
> >
> >Rev matching will extend the life of the synchro [ learn to do it as a part of your
> >daily driving ].
> >
> >A light weight flywheel will allow the engine to slow faster and cause less stress
> >on the synchros [ a bit of a plug by him -- he sells them ]. In the same vein I assume
> >the low compression ratio for our turbo car causes the same problem.
> >
> >I'm convinced that Muiller could build what we need --- however what price are we
> >willing to pay? How to get front money, probably several hundred dollars.
> >
> >
> >What other action is going on -- east coast parts are they or aren't they?
> >
> >
> > Jim Berry
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 02:27:28 EDT
From: NYMaxxNY@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: MD auto,Getrag,GTR MOTORSPORTS

Ok, guys, let me make it clear.
MD auto has been buying parts from us for the past 17 month. That's why the
prices are so much higher. For example we sell them the bearing kit for $180,
output shaft for $430, they mark it up and make profit like that. NO, they do
not get any parts from Germany. Mike gets used trannys from a local
Mitsubishi dealer and takes them apart. If the synchros or other parts are in
good condition, he uses them as a replacement in a rebuild unit. That's why
the core is so important for him. He has no connection with Getrag in Germany
what so ever.
Ok, now the good news
We finally found a manufacturer that will produce the synchros for us. It
will be the solid brass synchros. In order to cut the cost of the product we
will probably use the original ring with a new brass coat, but that is not
confirmed yet.
We also developing a carbon fiber engine kit that will replace the timing
belt covers, front spark plugs cover, and few other small parts.
The look alike Bozz Speed exhaust system is also in the works. It will use
the 4 in. piping and two chrome mufflers on each side. It will retail for
around $800. some mods to the gas filler pipe will be nessesary.
We will stock some of the Rally Art, and Bozz Speed products as well.
Erebuni agreed to work with us on a new body kit that will look much classier
than their Shou Gun kit.
I always dreamed of a shop that will specialize in 3000GT and I finally made
that dream come true.
The 36 000 sq.ft. facility is located in Brooklyn N.Y. 800# will be available
next week, and the web site will be done by the end of May.
Sincerely,
 Max at
 GTR MOTORSPORTS.


- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------------------------------------------
"5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny $2295
rebuilt transfer case $850
(refundable) core charge $500

Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage warranty.

Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are replaced. Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in Europe. He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink). He uses them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source will stop providing him
access. New bearings, shaft, transfer unit spool, and seals are used,
see below.

There is no problem swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft. Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape than the small shafts. He said this is because
the small shaft's 18 splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines wear more. ???

His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds. Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core. He doesn't rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.

Now he also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM $225
Shafts, OEM quality $695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality $695 (double ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case $175

He also sells used gears & housings.

I asked him about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts. He
didn't sound too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.

Mike is a Corvette man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend of his had Getrag problems. He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over $7K.

Aloha,
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 03:06:55 -0500
From: Gabe Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel Filter Info.

> Thanks all for those of you who sent me info on how to change the fuel
> filter. Not something that I want to do every day! The only thing I didn't
> like about the location of the filter is that there isn't really a good way
> to test for leaks. Oh well. Now I have to tackle the back 3 plugs. Can
> someone sent me the P# for the correct plugs to use. And if any of you have
> hints on the best way to change them.

Thanks!
Gabe Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
92 Typhoon

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:36:46 +0000
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hood Scoops

I've been half-working on a similar project for a bit. I thought the bozz speed bonnet
scoops were pretty cool, but the price is absurd ($380). So I got some stuff at the
local art store and played around taking molds of the stock covers, making plaster
casts, tweaking the shape with modeling clay, etc. My goal is to come up with a cast
of the desired shape that I can use for fiberglassing. I'm aiming for a shape similar
to the bozz speed extraction scoops.

A couple concerns I had were that the bottom of the covers is curved slightly, and
there's also the ridge that the rubber gasket fits onto. I'm not sure how successful
I'd be in getting that detail accurately. And while the shape of the scoop is pretty
much up to how I want to make it, the bottom pretty much needs to be the stock shape so
it can fit on there. And I also wasn't sure how I'd go about getting the studs
embedded into the bottom of the cover. The choice of materials pretty much seems to
be fiberglass or possibly vacuum formed polystyrene plastic.

Kevin Schappell wrote:

> Hey guys, I was bored tonight so I took my hood bumps off and drove around
> for a while. Really seemed to help the engine breath better and I felt a
> seat of the pants difference. I also noticed the engine temp drop a little.
> ( I could be seeing things though) I am going to pick up a temp. monitor
> from Radio Shack tomorrow and test it both ways. Also while I had the bumps
> off I traced them and I am going to draw them in my CAD system tomorrow.
> There is enough room to get a 4" tube in front of the strut tower if I cut
> part of the hood away under the bump. Do you think this is enuff to feed
> the engine. I plan on making a custom scoop and routing the tube to either
> the air box or making a box to feed a K&N filter. Is there something about
> the stock box that is restrictive? I think if I just got the drop-in K&N
> filter and plumb the cold air into the stock air box this would be a good
> start. Also it occured to me that the car would benefit from an air outlet
> on the backside of the scoop to vent the hot underhood air. Any opinions on
> that? Once I get a design done, I will post it on my server so you guys can
> comment on the look of it. Once I get something I like, I plan on getting
> it made in plastic or fiberglass.
>
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.pacarsearch.com
> Pennsylania's newest auto classifieds site.
> Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #184
****************************

For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm