--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #183
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Thursday, May 20
1999 Volume 01 : Number
183
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:14:02 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Gutting the Pre-cats HELPED
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> Gutting
the pre-cats did help....i have alot more horsepower than
>
before....and the car goes a little faster...but I still have the same
>
problems......also........my acceleration seems to only work between 3500
and
> 5500 rpms......before 3500 rpm the car hesitates too
much...and after 5500
> rpm I don't have enough fuel.
>
If I drive slow....my car runs RICH ....if I drive FAST the car runs
Lean
> is how it seems. Plug wires will be my next
investment.......
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
If
you had a VPC this would be easy, it would be a hole/leak in the hose going
to
the VPC pressure sensor under the hood.
Did you gut main cat?
If
engine was gone thru, a cam (maybe even only ONE of the 4) that was off by a
tooth
of the camgear on the belt could do this too, and make
backfires.
Jack T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 09:28:34 -0400
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark Plug question
Further to my previous note re spark plug
torque - the NGK Master Catalog says:
Aluminum
head Cast iron head
For 14 mm plugs
W/ flat seat 18 - 21.6 lb ft 18 - 25.3
For 14 mm plugs W/ taper
seat 7.2 - 14.5 " 10.8 - 18
Gwynne Spencer
30
ft. lbs - OUCH. I have owned many cars with aluminum heads and have
never
seen a factory torque value that high. Most are in the 15 to 20 lb
range. For
instance BMW cars up through 1992 call for 15 to 22.
I would be
VERY worried about stripped threads at 30.
Gwynne Spencer
At 05:52
PM 5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>There may be a spark plug torque
specification in the manual, but I've never
>used a torque wrench to
install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
>much torque I apply, my
guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.
>
>More important
(IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
>they come
with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
>than
factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
>the
archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched
to
>the +4 plugs?
>
>Looking
forward...Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent:
Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plug question
>
>
>I remember someone mentioning
their sparks plugs were torqued to
>tight....does that really effect the
spark?? How tight should I get them
>with a
socket?? I have to torx wrench. Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
>plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:26:36 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Adjusting up and down redux
Merritt wrote:
> > can
drive perfectly aligned, normal ride height
> >> car to track.
I'll jack it up, lower car.
> >> When finished event, I jack
it up, adjust back to
> >> stock height, drive home with car
perfectly aligned again.
> >> Anybody see a problem with
this?
> by counting threads
> lower the car, camber
automatically
> increases, is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back
to street
> height, camber adjusts itself back to being perfect
again.
No, I think this is a fine idea.
If you count threads, and you
haven't literally BENT your suspension arms
or tie rods etc, and you
mechanically put the position back where it was pre-event,
then the alignment
WILL return to where you had it BEFORE.
There is no "mysterious
monkey-motion looseness" that will screw it up, as
the ONLY thing you
adjusted is the strut's spring perch height. You did
NOT touch the
camber adjust cams, they are as tight as ever and set
EXACTLY where you had
them BEFORE.
Unless you postulate some DAMAGE=BENDING of the suspension
from
the track event, it WILL return exactly to spec.
If you think it WILL
damage/bend/misalign, then changing the spring
height will NOT STOP THAT, it
would have happened anyway, and the
ride height adjust STILL ends up a
zero-sum once adjusted back to stock...
within miniscule statistical
variances/normal wear and tear changes
that would have ocurred with OR
WITHOUT adjusting spring height collar!
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 09:41:25 -0400
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: transmission questions.
It may be a "hypothesis" appied to
Stealth/Mitsu, but all the trannies used
by BMW have the tranny manufacturer
rating in newton meters in the model
designation. (model as named by the
manufacturer)
Also, often a choice of tranny is made for reasons other
than torque
rating. For instance, if the tranny is used in other models and
the cost of
a new part number in the inventory would exceed the saving on a
lighter
unit - or layout / dimensios are only available in that rating - or
gear
ratio choices are only available in that particular unit - or
any
combination of these factors.
Gwynne Spencer
At 07:04 AM
5/19/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo
Shelby is stronger than the
>trans in my VR-4..
>
>I think
that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)
>
>Regards,
>Roger
Crawford
>94 Black VR-4
>3SI
#241
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
>Sent:
Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
>I believe that
Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
>their
trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
>to
handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is
designed
>for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.
>
>Gwynne
Spencer
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 09:44:15 -0400
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: transmission questions.
I forgot to mention one other critical factor
- the fewer the number of
cylinders, the higher the torque rating has to be,
as the gears are
subjected to impulse loads and 4 cylinder engines are
typically much
rougher in this respect - diesels are even
worse.
Gwynne Spencer
It may be a "hypothesis" appied to
Stealth/Mitsu, but all the trannies used
by BMW have the tranny manufacturer
rating in newton meters in the model
designation. (model as named by the
manufacturer)
Also, often a choice of tranny is made for reasons other
than torque
rating. For instance, if the tranny is used in other models and
the cost of
a new part number in the inventory would exceed the saving on a
lighter
unit - or layout / dimensios are only available in that rating - or
gear
ratio choices are only available in that particular unit - or
any
combination of these factors.
Gwynne Spencer
At 07:04 AM
5/19/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo
Shelby is stronger than the
>trans in my VR-4..
>
>I think
that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)
>
>Regards,
>Roger
Crawford
>94 Black VR-4
>3SI
#241
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
>Sent:
Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
>I believe that
Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
>their
trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
>to
handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is
designed
>for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.
>
>Gwynne
Spencer
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 08:59:38 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux
>Unless you postulate some
DAMAGE=BENDING of the suspension from
>the track event, it WILL return
exactly to spec.
Thanks, Jack. That's what I wanted to
hear.
Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 08:42:52 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 100% IDC
I've been noticing that at 1bar of boost on my 93 I'm
pegging the IDC at
100. I've tried lowering the boost on my AVC-R to .80 and
still hit my head
on the 100 mark. Why is this happening? Does anyone else
experience this? I
don't like the idea of working the injectors so
hard.
Thanks.
Dave
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 12:40:34 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????
I have a grinding noise when I
corner. Seems like it could be a wheel
bearing or maybe a CV joint. Do our
cars have CV joints? ( I am assuming
they do ) I have not heard alot of
discussion about CV joint wearing out,
is this common? I originally though
the noise was just the tires but it
seems to be louder when I corner, then
it quiets up when I straighten out.
Any help would be
appreciated.
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 09:43:00 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 100% IDC
1- is your gauges
accurate
2- do you have sufficient fuel pressure? I think
you need some more flow
& pressure.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dave Allison <dallison@siebel.com>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: 100% IDC
>I've
been noticing that at 1bar of boost on my 93 I'm pegging the IDC at
>100.
I've tried lowering the boost on my AVC-R to .80 and still hit my head
>on
the 100 mark. Why is this happening? Does anyone else experience this?
I
>don't like the idea of working the injectors so
hard.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 09:52:15 -0700
From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plug question
BOSCH specifically does not recommend
+4 plugs for 3s
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gwynne W.
Spencer <gwynnes@isni.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, May 19, 1999 6:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug
question
>Further to my previous note re spark plug torque - the
NGK Master Catalog
says:
>
> Aluminum
head Cast iron head
>
>For 14 mm
plugs W/ flat seat 18 - 21.6 lb ft 18 - 25.3
>For 14 mm plugs W/ taper
seat 7.2 - 14.5 " 10.8 - 18
>
>Gwynne
Spencer
>
>
>
>
>30 ft. lbs - OUCH. I have owned
many cars with aluminum heads and have
>never seen a factory torque value
that high. Most are in the 15 to 20 lb
>range. For instance BMW cars
up through 1992 call for 15 to 22.
>
>I would be VERY worried about
stripped threads at 30.
>
>Gwynne Spencer
>
>At 05:52 PM
5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>There may be a spark plug torque
specification in the manual, but I've
never
>>used a torque wrench
to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
>>much torque I
apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.
>>
>>More
important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap
did
>>they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums
(gapped
tighter
>>than factory specs) are the only ones that work
well on our cars (refer to
>>the archives for this thread). Did you
have problems before you switched
to
>>the +4
plugs?
>>
>>Looking
forward...Chris
>>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>>Sent:
Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
>>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plug question
>>
>>
>>I remember
someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
>>tight....does
that really effect the spark?? How tight should I
get
them
>>with a socket?? I have to torx wrench.
Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum
+4
>>plugs with 4 Pre-gapped
tips.....they are not re-gap-able..
>>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
>>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 13:57:33 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: Spring
Rates for Ground Control Adjustable Springs GP
Lets try to kill as many
birds with one stone as possible. Lets assume
I have a 3SI that is
somewhat modded up, handling is more important than
ride, but I don't want to
have to wear a kidney belt either and I
rarely, if ever, do any track racing
but might occasionally participate
in a SCCA gymkhana. I'd like to take 1" to
1.75" off of my ride height
so that I reduce the space between the top of my
tire and the bottom of
the fender so that it looks racier. I know that I am
going to have to
work with a good chassis shop to find out how far I can
lower the car
and still be able to adjust the camber to within specs and if I
want to
go any lower than that, I may have to buy GC's caster-camber plate
for
the front and do some creative adjustment on the back (there was
a
thread a couple of months ago on one of the lists about elongating
that
attachment holes to do this and I will read up on this.)
What
spring rates would you chassis experts suggest for:
1) a twin turbo and
2) a NA DOHC car (I am assuming that this would also apply to a
base
SOHC.)
Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 11:33:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????
CV joints usually make a
popping or clicking sound as you turn the
wheel. Your symptoms are
probably the wheel bearings. Try jacking up
the suspected corner, then
grab the wheel at 12:00 & 6:00 o'clock and
try to wiggle. Then try 3:00
& 9:00. There should be no play
Since it is grinding, you will
probably also have to replace the hub
shaft too because of excess wear.
I had to replace my rear wheel
bearings (both wheels) and one hub at about
72K miles. Cost with a
local mechanic was about $540. You could
do it youself though.
Bearings and seals for two wheels should be under
$100. Can't remember
the cost of the hub though. Just
disassemble, take to a shop to have
old bearings removed and new bearings
pressed on, then reassemble.
Good luck,
Ken
> I have
a grinding noise when I corner. Seems like it could be a wheel
> bearing
or maybe a CV joint. Do our cars have CV joints? ( I am assuming
> they do
) I have not heard alot of discussion about CV joint wearing out,
> is
this common? I originally though the noise was just the tires but it
>
seems to be louder when I corner, then it quiets up when I straighten
out.
> Any help would be appreciated.
- --
How many roads must
a man travel down before he admits he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:37:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 2 Quick Questions
> 2. What
MODIFICATION must be done to the HKS Sequential Blow Off valve
> for it to
fit a 94+.
The HKS SBOV kit eliminates the stock bypass valve using a
large 90° bent pipe
with the SBOV sitting on the top. The pipe will be
attached to the hose comming
from the y-pipe. At this position and a little
more forward, it seems that it
interferes with the 6-speed tranny. What you
can do is to cut the pipe and just
use a small part of hose to connect it to
the y-pipe.
Hope this helps,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:41:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 100% IDC
> I've been noticing that at 1bar of boost on my 93
I'm pegging the IDC at
> 100. I've tried lowering the boost on my AVC-R to
.80 and still hit my head
> on the 100 mark. Why is this happening? Does
anyone else experience this? I
> don't like the idea of working the
injectors so hard.
The cause can be running bad or low octane gas. You
don't say what other mods
you have and how much miles it has but if you don't
experience fuel cut the
readings should be correct. If you have high mileage
the fuel filter could be
clogged up as well as the fuel rails and injectors.
Try to use a can of fuel
system cleaner (follow the instructions) and check
if the IDC goes lower.
Good luck,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:46:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plug question
ADMIN note:Murat, please always
<snip> the older parts of the message. Thanks !
> BOSCH
specifically does not recommend +4 plugs for 3s
I have to second this !
They may work well on other cars but get them off of our
V6 ! Bosch has new
+4 plugs where they say that they should be fine but I'm
happy with the NGK
:) My Supra friends used the +4 plugs, but as said, there are
newer ones. In
my opinion, throw em away and get new NGKs... I'm positive that
this will
solve some problems.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 15:39:30 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch break in period
Ok I just got a Dual Friction clutch and
they say to drive in town for 500
miles. Now my question is, does this
mean I can't be driving in 2nd gear at
45 mph and then switch to 3rd?
What I am trying to ask is, do I have to
keep the rpms down when I am
changing gears? I know they don't want you
dropping the clutch from a
stand still. I just don't wanna mess up the
clutch, thanks for nay and
all help.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 16:18:55 -0400
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>On another note, I hear the shop
in San Diego (grapevine up here in Canada)
>has Getrag parts..or at
least receives them wrapped in German newspaper.
>Maybe the flood gates
are about to be cracked open?
At the Gathering, Max Speed (yes, that's
his name... aka NYMaxx) mentioned
that not only does he have Getrag parts,
he's also geting solid brass
replacement / upgrade synchros made up for
them.
His shop is GTR Motorsports, in Brooklyn.
Unfortunately, I
don't have the email address or phone number on me at
the
moment.
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 13:42:39 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
** Getrag Info **
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Schwieg
<schwieg@ibm.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Thursday, May 06, 1999 7:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info
**
> I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just
tell me where to send them.
> Bryan
> ----------
> From: Jim
Berry[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:44 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info
**
=====================================================
Thanks
much --- I received the parts Monday and took them over to the
fabricator
Tuesday. I only have some preliminary info at this point but will
try to post to the
team in the next day or so.
Jim Berry
===>
93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
[soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS
lines
GC/Eibach 550# F/350#
R
Gtech ==> 0-60 = 4.75 sec -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 15:56:36 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Buying Ground Control springs
Dear DSM group:
OK, I
ordered my suspension. About half of us have done so.
We need the rest
of you who want Ground Control suspension kits to get
cracking, because we
don't get the 25% discount until all 20 of us order.
At the rate we're going,
it will take another week and a half.
BTW, I got 550 front and 315 rear.
The Willis dad/son team out of Texas
report that this is a good open track
setup for the VR4 with adjustable
suspension. They say it is a little stiffer
than stock on the tour setting,
and then goes to being on rails at the sport
setting. They also say
lowering the car a bit helps reduce push.
I did
not get the $75 front plates that give you an extra inch of travel:
Tony at
Ground Control says this is just for 2nd gen Eclipses, not VR4s. He
also said
I don't need the camber plate if I'm only going to lower it an
inch or so.
Guys who want to slam it down need the camber plate, though.
He also
suggests setting it to as much as 4 deg of positive camber. That
way, you
will even out the wear. At the track, you'll eat up the outside
edges, then
the increased camber will eat up the inside edges around down
to make up for
it.
They are in Northern California, so this would be a perfect time for
you to
call in your order. Hint, hint.
BTW, if anybody cares, I'll be
away from the computer until Sunday.
We're goin' to New Yawk to see some
shows.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 23:33:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Buying Ground Control springs
> We need the rest of you who
want Ground Control suspension kits to get
> cracking, because we don't
get the 25% discount until all 20 of us order.
> At the rate we're going,
it will take another week and a half.
Eh, don't tell such things as we
ARE PART OF THE DSM GP !! We do not need 20
people of us !
There are
already more than 20 or even 25 people who are on the list, proud DSM
owners
and we with the heavy brothers, and almost all have already ordered it
(as I
was told, but ...). I just ordered them for $299.96 plus something for my
Z
too :)
I got the 450/300 for a more comfortable ride. It's not the
smoothest but a good
compromise for a daily driver and a car that should see
the track 2 or more
times a year ;-)
> I did not get the $75 front
plates that give you an extra inch of travel:
> Tony at Ground Control
says this is just for 2nd gen Eclipses, not VR4s. He
> also said I don't
need the camber plate if I'm only going to lower it an
> inch or so. Guys
who want to slam it down need the camber plate, though.
Even more, there
are no bushings anymore than and the ride will be very, very
harsh with the
plates mounted. No option for me as well.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 14:56:28 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
The San Diego Shop is MD Auto.
Talked with them before and they said NO to selling the synchros. That
might have changed since this was a couple of months ago when I made the
call.
I've tried emailing Maxx, but never received a response from him -
it's something like NYNYMaxx@aol.com. I've got his email on
my home computer.
- --
On Wed, 19 May 1999 16:18:55 Fein,
Edward wrote:
>
>>On another note, I hear the shop in San Diego
(grapevine up here in Canada)
>
>>has Getrag parts..or at least
receives them wrapped in German newspaper.
>>Maybe the flood gates are
about to be cracked open?
>
>At the Gathering, Max Speed (yes,
that's his name... aka NYMaxx) mentioned
>that not only does he have
Getrag parts, he's also geting solid brass
>replacement / upgrade synchros
made up for them.
>
>His shop is GTR Motorsports, in
Brooklyn.
>
>Unfortunately, I don't have the email address or phone
number on me at the
>moment.
>
> -Ed
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 15:10:11 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Need help finding Chapor ID kits! Anyone?
Just go to a local
print shop and have them cut a new set of vinyl ID
stickers for
cheaper.
Dave
- -----Original Message-----
From: Vect0r0 [mailto:vect0r0@ix.netcom.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 18, 1999 9:01 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Need help finding Chapor ID kits! Anyone?
I was recently in a
$10K accident and two months later, I still haven't
gotten my
car
back. The origional Chapor ID kit ripped while being removed.
The old
www.alldata.com\chapor\
address is invalid. Please mail me if you have his
e-mail or
web
address. Thanks in advance.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 16:54:38 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Buying Ground Control springs
At 11:33 PM 5/19/99 +0200, you
wrote:
>> We need the rest of you who want Ground Control suspension
kits to get
>> cracking, because we don't get the 25% discount until
all 20 of us order.
>> At the rate we're going, it will take another
week and a half.
>
>Eh, don't tell such things as we ARE PART OF THE
DSM GP !! We do not need 20
>people of us !
Tony tells me less than
half of our group have ordered so far.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 19:00:09 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Nippon
Denso -VS- NGK
Okay....my engine came from japan with Nippon Denso
platinum plugs and worked
fine for a while. So I have opted to put new
Nippon Denso platinum's in.....
and take out those shitty Bosch
plugs. Any opinions or experiences with
Nippon Denso....should I
have just bought NGK's?? Another thing....the
manual sais
the plugs should be torched at 25 lbs. for all those in
debate...look
on page. 00-46.
What should I gap my plugs to?? My car is
stock. thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 16:46:58 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Nippon Denso -VS- NGK
Three things:
1. Torque the
plugs as the manual states. My arm hasn't been calibrated
lately.
:-)
2. "Everyone" seems to concur that NGK double platinum are the plugs to
use
on 3KGTs. Give the NDs another go if you'd like, but it's something of
a
hassle to change them on an experimental basis.
3. Gap is relative to
boost. If you're going to leave your car stock, leave
the plugs with the
stock gap (.044"). If you plan, during the life of the
plugs, to increase the
boost to 15 psi (you REALLY do want to do this!!!)
and don't want to pull the
plugs again, gap them down to .034".
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 19, 1999 4:00 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Nippon Denso -VS- NGK
Okay....my engine came from japan with
Nippon Denso platinum plugs and
worked
fine for a while. So I have
opted to put new Nippon Denso platinum's
in.....
and take out those
shitty Bosch plugs. Any opinions or experiences with
Nippon
Denso....should I have just bought NGK's?? Another
thing....the
manual sais the plugs should be torched at 25 lbs. for
all those in
debate...look on page. 00-46.
What should I gap my plugs
to?? My car is stock. thanks.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 18:06:03 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Getrag & MD Auto
Aloha,
I couldn't resist saying that
after spending the last 10 days on Kauai's
south shore at Poipu
Kai.
Anyway I just called MD Auto, 619-390-0450, in San Diego to follow
up
with recent Getrag questions floating around. I spoke with Mike for
at
least 20 minutes and he is very friendly and helpful. MD Auto as
you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions and transfer cases and
also
sells some parts.
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt
transfer case $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny $2295
rebuilt transfer case
$850
(refundable) core charge $500
Tranny & transfer case have 12
month unlimited milage warranty.
Only gears and synchros that are
out of spec are replaced. Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a
source in Europe. He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll
tell you that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink). He
uses them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his
source will stop providing him
access. New bearings, shaft, transfer
unit spool, and seals are used,
see below.
There is no problem
swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.
Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape
than the small shafts. He said this is because
the small shaft's 18
splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines
wear more. ???
His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.
Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core. He doesn't
rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.
Now he
also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM
$225
Shafts, OEM quality $695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality $695
(double ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case
$175
He also sells used gears & housings.
I asked him
about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts. He
didn't sound
too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.
Mike is a Corvette
man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend
of his had Getrag problems. He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in
the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over
$7K.
Aloha,
Ken
- --
How many roads must a man travel down
before he admits he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 21:04:12 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
G-Force ECU Up-Grade
Hello all,
Does anyone
on the list have experience using g-force
ECU upgrades? Any feedback would be
appreciated. I
want to use their ECU with 15g's, 550cc injectors,
boost
controller, DP with hi-flo cat and gutted pre-cats and a
higher
flowing fuel pump. I don't need to run more boost
than 93 octane will allow
(~18 lbs?) and would like to keep
the stock cat-back. Anyone with a similar
setup on the
list? Also, is there any benefit to taking the rev limiter
up
to 7,500 rpm with just these
mods?
Thanks for any advice you can
offer,
Wayne 3SI
#87
'91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 20:44:38 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60K Service...
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA238.69AD83C0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Wayne-
I live in Huntsville, Alabama, and I would
definitely be interested in =
having
you do my 60K service. It
will be a year or two before I get to 60K, =
but
I will check to see if
you are still making this offer when I do. =20
Regards, ptg=20
-
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA238.69AD83C0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Wayne-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I live in Huntsville, Alabama, and I
=
would=20
definitely be interested in
having</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>you do my 60K service. =
It will be
a=20
year or two before I get to 60K,
but</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I will check to see if you are still =
making this=20
offer
when I do. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards,
=
ptg </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA238.69AD83C0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 00:47:45 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 100% IDC
"R.G." wrote:
> I've been noticing that
at 1bar of boost on my 93 I'm pegging the
IDC at
> 100. I've
tried lowering the boost on my AVC-R to .80 and still hit
my head
> on the 100 mark. Why is this happening? Does anyone else
experience
this? I
> don't like the idea of working the
injectors so hard.
The cause can be running bad or low octane gas.
If you have high
mileage the fuel filter could be
clogged up as
well as the fuel rails and injectors.
I thought we had already
discussed similar topics and determined that
the ECU simply aint that
smart. I'm going solely on info I've gathered
here, no scientific
data, but this is what makes sense... If the ECU knew what the
exact
air/fuel ratio was, would we need to remap the fuel curve EVER?
We
could just throw
on our 1000cc injectors and go with it. I get
the impression the ECU
measures the air coming in (at the MAS) and determines
the IDC based on
this while
assuming that the injectors are stock.
By all means, put some octane
boost in, while running quality gas, replace
the filter and run some
injector cleaner through,
but I doubt very
seriously this would have any impact on the situation.
Btw, I'm
running 1.0 on my AVC-R, on my 94 VR4. I also get maxed
injectors, but
after measuring the air/fuel ratio it's about perfect.
This disappoints me
somewhat as I've heard the 2nd gens run rich and I was hoping to lean
it
out a bit and get a little more power. I'd be willing to bet that
your
ECU will max the
injectors out at .80 atmosphere and run safely
rich. Of course it can't
max them out any more at higher boost.
Try dropping the boost as low as
possible and
see what
happens.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 19 May 1999 22:35:38 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag & MD Auto
> Now he also sells some parts:
> Bearings,
Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM $225
> Shafts, OEM quality
$695 (ouch!)
> Transfer spools, OEM quality $695 (double ouch!)
>
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case
$175
==========================================================================
I'm
not familiar with the term transfer spool --- Is it the same as the bronze
coated
" cones " that are part of the synchro assembly [ Inner ring ---
cone --- outer ring ---
synchronizer ring and hub ]. The cone is the actual
wear part.
If it includes the synchro assembly [ inner ring -- cone --
outer ring ] for all five speeds
it doesn't sound too bad.
I would like
to know the price of the bootleg sets that were extracted from Getrag
and
what they consisted of. E.g.. did they include the sleeve and hub -- and
was
second gear available --- When the synchro goes out the sleeve
often causes wear
on the gear affected [ usually second ].
Also, the term
OEM quality is a little disconcerting --- I have an aftermarket warranty
and
I'd like to think I'd get OEM parts. [ now that I think about it maybe I don't
want
OEM parts ].
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 01:33:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: BDLSOO7@webtv.net (chris hill)
Subject:
Team3S: cams
are aftermarket cams ,or cam gears very beneficial in
increasing
horsepwer? i've heard that cam gears are worth about 6hp, to 8 hp.
but
i'm not sure about the cams themselves.
is it even worth
it? thanks,
chris hill 91
vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:37:33 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????
Hmmm.. Maybe there's something
different between how mitsu in different countries sell their parts because I
just changed my two front wheel bearings and they are only sold as a complete
kit with new bearings installed in the hub.
It's not possible to buy
just the front wheel bearings according to the Mitsubishi importer in Sweden (I
actually looked at their parts CD myself). The good thing with this is that it's
a very easy "do it yourself" job since you don't have to press on the bearings.
The bad thing is the price. :(
Is this another Getrag part??
;)
And YES changing bearings/hub solved the grinding sound I had when
cornering.
Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
<SNIP>
I
had to replace my rear wheel
>bearings (both wheels) and one hub at about
72K miles. Cost with a
>local mechanic was about $540. You
could do it youself though.
>Bearings and seals for two wheels should be
under $100. Can't remember
>the cost of the hub though. Just
disassemble, take to a shop to have
>old bearings removed and new bearings
pressed on, then reassemble.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 02:03 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Valve noise(?) at startup
You wrote:
>I have a '92
VR4, sometimes I get a horrible grinding noise on cold starts.
>The dealer
can't find the problem. Any ideas?
I'm not sure if it's the same sound
you're referring to, but I've had a similar
problem with my '92 VR4 for the
past 3 years. It started the day after I got my
car back from the dealership
after having the timing belt replaced at 60,000
miles.
It sounded like it
was coming from the transmission area. It would happen only
after
cold
starts, and would dissipate once the engine started warming up. It was
kind
of
an intermittent medium-pitched grinding sound, kind of like what a dry
clutch
release
bearing should sound like, and was particularly prevalent
on cold winter
Michigan
mornings. The sound would stop when I pushed the
clutch pedal, and would start
again
when the pedal was released, so I
assumed the problem was the clutch release
bearing.
Does this sound
familiar?
I had to replace the clutch in December, so I replaced the
throwout bearing at
the
same time, thinking that the noise would go away,
but it's still there. I don't
know
what it is, but it still goes away as
the engine warms up, and doesn't seem to
be
hurting anything as far as I
can tell.
If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears!!!
Jeff
Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 09:15:53 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: G-Force ECU Up-Grade
> want to use their ECU with 15g's, 550cc
injectors, boost
> controller, DP with hi-flo cat and gutted pre-cats and
a
> higher flowing fuel pump.
The ECU upgrade will replace the
stock CPU with a daugther board that contains
two EPROMS and the CPU itselfs
(with deactivated internal program). This allows
you to get another program
set later if you''re not happy or if you upgrade
another part.
The
main thing to the program is that they advance the timing curve and alter
the
fuel map acording to your mods (therefore only the 15G and 550cc)
> I
don't need to run more boost than 93 octane will allow (~18 lbs?)
Well,
93 octane does allow 15 psi when looking at the table. Of course,
when
dumping fuel into the chamber this would waste the energy but cool it
down as
well to provide a little more knock stability.
My experience
is very good with the G-Force, although I haven't had the chance
to test it
over a longer period. I felt a good low-end power increase although
the
program is made for 720cc and I adjusted the AFC to the rich side to get
it
running. Boost rised much quicker causing the well known "plopp" under the
hood
(y-pipe). Due to the advanced timing the rpms climbed faster than they
already
do but of course I also fell out of the MAP due to the stock
injectors. I do
have three version of the EPROMs , mild, wild, no-comment and
I just tried the
mild version. Comparing the contents of the EPROMs just
showed little difference
but this doesn't say anything as this could be
reference values that are used to
calculate other values.
> and
would like to keep the stock cat-back.
No problem
> Also, is
there any benefit to taking the rev limiter
> up to 7,500 rpm with just
these mods?
No, as this would be a real race setup and definitely needs
forged pistons and
real good rings. I've not seen any power curve of a
3k/Stealth that became
higher after the 6000 mark !
Hope this
helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 02:19:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: BDLSOO7@webtv.net (chris hill)
Subject:
Team3S: VPC question
what is the going rate for the vpc on our cars?
also, what other company
makes a comparable product to the vpc (it's
competetion). are they any
better?(cost wise, or performance wise?)
i
want to rip out my MAF, and run two metal pipes to the turbos, and im
looking
for more air
flow.
thanks
again,
chris
hill
91vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 11:39:12 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VPC question
The contributors were/are :
- - TRE MASC
(discontinued)
- - Wolf Racing (nobody has it on our cars)
- -
Haltech
The later are very sophisticated systems that can combine
ignition and air-flow
systems but of course on a nother price
well.
> what is the going rate for the vpc on our cars?
$750 -
$950 (used or new)
> i want to rip out my MAF, and run two metal pipes
to the turbos, and im
> looking for more air flow.
What turbos are
you running and do you upgrade to bigger intercooler and piping
as well ?
Also what injectors, fuel pump and exhaust modifications are done ?
You
see, installing only a VPC to get rid of the MAS only helps to get air
easier
in and you may feel this is a little better response. But the main
objective
of the VPC is to convert your car from air-mass into a speed-density
system.
To benefit of this, fuel pump and injectors are a must as well the fuel
pump.
More big $$$ ahead ! Finally, you have a better way to get more air in
but
the turbos are just too small for doing something better than before.
15Gs are
then just knocking on your door. And as your car can suck more air
in you also
want to get more air out. DP, gutting pre-cats and a cat-back are
then of
benefit.
A lot $$$ ahead...
Have
fun,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
thanks
again,
>
chris
hill
>
91vr4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 07:12:08 EDT
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Ground
Control Report
FWIW, I have had the GC system in my 93 VR4 for 3 months
now. I ordered 650
front / 500 rear WITH the camber plate kit for the
fronts. Using G-Force R1's
255/45/17 on stock 17" rims, GAB adjustable
shocks. Installation
instructions did not make alot of sense, and some parts
did not logically
look like they would work. After a few conversations and
faxes, Tony sent me
an updated diagram and some replacement parts for the
top of the rears, as
well as spacer O rings for the threaded sleeves. I did
cut the bump stops
down, but not quite in half. The method of attaching the
top spring plates to
the springs are tie wraps. Not the best setup. In order
to get more than
around 2 in. drop in front will require cutting off most of
the lower spring
perch on the struts. This is because the adjustable collar
starts to hit the
spring perch below 2" mark. I left enough material
attached to the shock to
properly support the sleeve. The camber plate kit
was fairly straight
forward. You must drill new mounting holes for these
plates. They are 4 hole
vs the stock 3 hole mount. They will automatically
increase the castor due to
the mounting location. Camber can be set back to
stock if desired. I have my
camber set at 3 deg. with zero toe. With the
extra castor the camber
increases above the static 3 deg. in the corners.
You MUST be extremely
carefull when coming down off jacks with this setup as
the springs are NOT
compressed without the weight of the car. You must also
make sure everything
is aligned when coming off jacks. What I do is lower
car until spring just
barely touches but has almost no compression. I then
jiggle it ( technical
term) until it seats correctly into the adjustable
collar as well as seating
the top portion into the thicker portion of the
piston.
Then I lower the car the rest of the way. It's sort of a pain, but if
you do
not do this you may bend a piston or have the spring POP into place
when
driving. The toe in/out WILL be affected greatly as you lower the car.
I
think I had around 1" of toe in with the increased castor and camber. The
rears are not as bad. I have not done anything yet to correct rear camber,
but I am leaning toward picking up lower control arms from a junk yard and
having 1/4 - 1/2 taken out of the length and rewelded. OK, so now I got them
in. was it worth it ?? Yeeeessssss. Car is almost too stiff for
street. But
it no longer rolls or dives in corners. With the same Yoko
A032's that I had
on last year my feeling is a 15% increase in cornering
ability along with NO
push in turn in. Car is very netual. With the G-force
I just toot the
locomotive horn in the corners (translation - riding on
RAILS ) Now to keep
this all in perspective these cars are HEAVY. It is one
of the heaviest sport
cars/ grand touring cars out there. For comparision a
corvette weighs about
600-700 lbs less. A gutted mustang will weigh around
2200, a difference of
3800-2200=1600 lbs.
Dave 93 VR4 -
Watkins Glen June 9th and 10th
Watkins Glen June 30th and July
1
Pocono Long Track July 10th and 11th
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:38:43 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tour/Sport flashing - Which mode is it in?
The other day it
happened to me too. The tour/sport lights
were flashing. Does anyone
know what mode it defaults to
when this happens? Felt like mode #2 to
me.
FYI!!! It wasn't a broken wire like most other people.
All
I did was disconnect both front connectors, and after I re-started
the ignition, everything was fine. It was very humid that day,
so
maybe I had a bad connection.
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green
Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors
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our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:10:42 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Small Hood Scoop
Racer Warehouse in GA has a ton of scoops.
On
Wed, 12 May 1999 18:00:14 -0500 "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
writes:
>All,
>
>Does anyone know were I might find a small
(6" x 8") hood scoop that I
>could>mount behind my passenger side
pop-up head light. I'm committed
to
>getting>fresh air into
my K&N, and it appears the only good way to do it
is a
>straight
shot through the
hood.
>
>Regards,
>DaveT/92TT
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:45:06 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A/F gauges?
Excuse me for my ignorance here, but I have to
ask..
Prior to buying my VR-4, I was heavily involved in the 4 Cyl
Shelby-Dodge
turbo cars. One of the absolute necessities when doing any mods
was an
accurate A/F gauge, like the Cyberdyne. I see no mention of them here.
While
I do see a lot of mention of fuel cutouts, and the fact that our cars
croak
at the top end, are the A/F gauges not as necessary here due to
the
management systems? An inquiring mind needs to know
:)
Regards,
Roger Crawford
94 Black VR-4
3SI #241
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:49:29 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tour/Sport flashing - Which mode is it in?
funny, same thing has been
happening occassionally to me after I
installed the RSRs...
On Thu, 20
May 1999 08:38:43 -0700 Jeff Schwartz
<jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
writes:
>The other day it happened to me too. The tour/sport lights
>were flashing. Does anyone know what mode it defaults to
>when this happens? Felt like mode #2 to
me.
>
>FYI!!! It wasn't a broken wire like most other
people. All
>I did was disconnect both front connectors, and after
I re-started
>the ignition, everything was fine. It was very humid
that day,
>so maybe I had a bad connection.
>--
> Jeff
Schwartz
> 1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
> Borla, K&N FIPK,
Magnecors
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:44:35 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
G-Force ECU Up-Grade
In a message dated 5/20/99 3:16:55 AM Eastern
Daylight Time,
robby@swissonline.ch
writes:
<<
Hope this
helps,
Roger
93'3000GT T >>
Roger,
Thanks for the insights. One more question though.
Why
is the maximum boost on 93 octane fuel so low? I know it
is hard to do
direct comparisons on other motors but I was
always able to run 17-18 lbs
boost on my Galant VR-4 as
well as Supra TT. I thought the low boost max was
due to
stock injector limits. If 15 lbs is the highest safe level, do
you
know about what horse power can be attained with the
mods listed? (Sorry
about all the added questions!)
Thanks for your insights, they
are very much
appreciated.
Wayne
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 20 May 1999 08:19:38 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????
Actually, if it is a
non-turbo (FWD) car, the bearings are sold seperatly
and have to be pressed
on. Only on the TT models does it come as a complete
hub. You're right
though, it's probably the easiest repair job on the
drivetrain. On the $$
side of things, you guys must be getting raped over
in Europe because the hub
assembly is only $65 here in the states. You may
want to find a stateside
source for you're parts....
Wayne
At 01:37 AM 5/20/99 , you
wrote:
>Hmmm.. Maybe there's something different between how mitsu in
different
>countries sell their parts because I just changed my two front
wheel
>bearings and they are only sold as a complete kit with new
bearings
>installed in the hub.
>
>It's not possible to buy
just the front wheel bearings according to the
>Mitsubishi importer in
Sweden (I actually looked at their parts CD myself).
>The good thing with
this is that it's a very easy "do it yourself" job since
>The bad thing
is the price. :(
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