--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #182
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest Wednesday, May 19 1999 Volume 01 : Number 182

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:15:51 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo question

There does exist a TD05-16G 8cm^2 turbo kit for the 3000GT. It includes stainless steel
manifolds and utilizes external wastegates. I've been offering this kit for awhile. But
customers usually back away after finding out the pricing for it. The turbo kit is bolt
in, with exception to having to modify the downpipe and intercooler pipe to fit it.

chris hill wrote:

> there is a japanese website out there, with a gto using twin TDO5 units,
> from dsm's. would this be a difficult mod. someone on this list posted
> the website sometime ago,and i forgot the thing. anyway, it was in
> japanese, so the only thing i could understand was the pictures. i could
> be wrong ,but i think these units were 14B, unlike my 9B 1st, generation
> vr4 TDO4's.
> someone overseas made them work, so why cant we? if anyone knows
> anything about this mod, let me know if its fesable. thanks again.
> chris hill
> 91,vr4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:50:23 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Question-Off topic

In a message dated 5/18/99 7:10:56 AM Central Daylight Time, SHaBEEF@aol.com
writes:

<< Can you Fit a 315-35-17 on a 17by9inch wheel? I just want to know if it
will
fit!

Thanks
Cliff >>

You're asking if the 315/35/17 tire can fit a 17x9 wheel? The answer is yes;
BUT you have to check and see if the wheel offset and tire side wall will fit
our cars!? In my opinion (I may be wrong), I do NOT think that this set up
will work on our cars. I have NOT heard of anyone from our list that has
taken such a large width tire and fitted it on our cars, yet. ( I definitely
DO NOT recommend wheel spacers for our cars, either!)

Good luck,
Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:03:41 EDT
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops

Okay guys, since we are on the subject of hood scoops; I recall a
certain 3000GT website that included Japanese alterations; it also had a
section on Kaze and Bozz Speed hood scoops. The Kaze section had a
"headlight intake" modification (1st. generation only - I am very interested
in this part - price: $120); Also Bozz Speed makes "Bonnet scoops" for our
1st. generation cars. I would like to include the webpage link with this
post I'm sending but I'm not sure if I'll be breaking our mailing list
guidelines; so here are the webpage addresses:

http://home.adelphia.net/~rpmmotor/html/kaze.html
&
http://home.adelphia.net/~rpmmotor/index.html

Hope this helps!
Good luck,

Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 07:40:13 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply

A 2" or more drop doesn't sound like much but is rather dramatic. GC
suggested that 2" would be the outer limit from a practical standpoint
without causing other serious suspension and steering geometry problems.
You could try it but I suspect you'll run into clearance issues if not
worse. A 1.5" to 1.75" drop makes the car's stance very agressive and is
still more or less practical on the street.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:33 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
>
>
> In a message dated 5/17/99 10:03:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
> beking@home.com
> writes:
>
> << According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess
> of 2" but it
> is
> advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
> geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.
>
> The kit isn't intended for "slamming" the car, but to offer a range of
> adjustment for tuning the ride height for performance handling
> reasons while
> maintaining full suspension travel unlike lowering springs.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry >>
>
>
> This sounds like what i want.. WOuld a drop of 2.25 be WAY to
> much do you all
> think? I am not looking for the "G funk, low rider look" I am
> going for the
> lowered, racecar look. : ) and would like to have good suspension..
>
> jeff.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:10:31 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux

Let me try the open track question again....

I asked:

> I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal ride height
>> car to an open track event. When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the
car, increase the
>> camber, adjust out the high speed push, and just have a better handling
car. When I'm all
>> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
>> stock height, and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
Anybody see a problem with this?

Barry said:
>>
>Nope. That'll work just great. Check the price on their camber kit. It is
>affordable.
>
Oops, I mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.

What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.

I don't want to have to check corner weights or set the camber every time I
do this.

As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
again. N'est ce pas?

I may have to fiddle with ride heights at the first coupla track events to
find the ride height settings that eliminate push, but once that's
accomplished (and the settings noted), I forsee being finished with further
fiddling, Fred.

I am envisioning a SIMPLE trackside procedure, not a major alignment project.

NOW does anyone see a problem with this?

If it ain't as easy as I hope, I may have to start trailering to and from
events. It's tough enough running the Old Poop Brake Shop all weekend, I
don't need to open a front end shop too. Open Track events are supposed to
be FUN.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:50:39 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux

I'm sure you can get it close, but i would still check the alignment
somehow. I'm sure you know that you will probably eat up a set of tires
each time you go to the track, right? When you factor in the price of a new
set of tires each time you go to the track, a $70 alignment starts to sound
pretty cheap.......

At 10:10 AM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>Let me try the open track question again....

>Oops, I mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.
>
>What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
>jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
>back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
>then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.

>As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
>increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
>height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
>again. N'est ce pas?

>NOW does anyone see a problem with this?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:00:45 -0700
From: Vect0r0 <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need help finding Chapor ID kits! Anyone?

I was recently in a $10K accident and two months later, I still haven't gotten my car
back. The origional Chapor ID kit ripped while being removed. The old
www.alldata.com\chapor\ address is invalid. Please mail me if you have his e-mail or
web address. Thanks in advance.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:50:22 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

> The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...

How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny? Are you sure he
didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD? Or did he just somehow swap
the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work. I'm pretty sure
there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
and have it work.

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:01:50 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

Hmm, this could be a pretty good way to go since Corvette parts are a lot
more readily available than the Mitsu stuff.. Thanks for the info!

- -Matt

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joshua [mailto:joshua@princelaw.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 11:51 AM
> To: 'Matt Jannusch '
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
> I donno what the guy said is he kept the case which kept the 4
> wheel drive
> working but put in a corvette gear box.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Sent: 5/18/99 12:50 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>
> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny? Are you sure
> he
> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD? Or did he just somehow
> swap
> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work. I'm pretty sure
> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop
> it in
> and have it work.
>
> -Matt
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:06:13 +0100
From: "Moravek, David" <David.J.Moravek@wcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA150.BDB6A7B4
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just got on this list yesterday, and everything I've seen has been =
great.
I think the people that reply to these question are very knowledgeable =
and
helpful. Therefor I thought I would put all you to the test.

I replaced my motor because of an internal problem. But now that I've
replaced the motor a Yugo and kick my ass. My car feels like it has an
injector problem. I've had the injectors cleaned but no help. I was
wondering what else I might check.

These are my symptoms

=B7 It is VERY slow when I first drive off from a standstill. =20
=B7 It also has very bad hesitation when my foot is into it. =20
=B7 It has moments of good acceleration, but only for a sec.=20
=B7 It feels like it will never build full power. But if I pump the =
gas
peddle it feels like it will accelerate faster but nothing too quick.
=B7 I still have good power at the top end but it takes me forever to =
get to
that speed.
=B7 My check engine light is "ON"

I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4, and no a Yugo has not beating me but I =
won't
race anything right now :).

I was wondering if could be a timing problem because of the back =
firing?

Can anyone help with this problem? Can a diagnostic check find my =
problem?=20

David Moravek

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA150.BDB6A7B4
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DISO-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2569.0">
<TITLE>Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

I just got on this list yesterday, and =
everything I've seen has been great.  I think the people that =
reply to these question are very knowledgeable and helpful.  =
Therefor I thought I would put all you to the test.

I replaced my motor because of an =
internal problem. But now that I've replaced the motor a Yugo and kick =
my ass. My car feels like it has an injector problem. I've had the =
injectors cleaned but no help.  I was wondering what else I might =
check.

These are my symptoms


=B7 It is VERY slow when I first drive =
off from a standstill.  
 =B7 It also has very bad hesitation =
when my foot is into it.  
 =B7 It has moments of good =
acceleration, but only for a sec. 
 =B7 It feels like it will never build =
full power.  But if I pump the gas peddle it feels like it will =
accelerate faster but nothing too quick.

=B7 I still have good power at the top =
end but it takes me forever to get to that speed.
 =B7 My check engine light is =
"ON"


I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4,   =
and no a Yugo has not beating me but I won't race anything =
right now :).


I was wondering if could be a timing =
problem because of the back firing?

 

Can anyone help with this =
problem?  Can a diagnostic check find my problem? 

 

David Moravek


</BODY>
</HTML>
- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BEA150.BDB6A7B4--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:37:01 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

Okay, the key questions are:

1) What year and model is the Corvette tranny. I'm sure there are a few.
2) What modifications were required to accept it. I'm sure it just doesn't bolt in,
regardless of whether or not he retained the transfer case for AWD.
3)How well does it function/shift. Still seems too good to be true.
4) Who is this unnamed guy. Have him post so we can discus his brilliance.

Best

Darc

> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>
> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny? Are you sure he
> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD? Or did he just somehow swap
> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work. I'm pretty sure
> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
> and have it work.
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:41:54 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!

David...

Admin notice...please turn off your HTML when sending to this list (use
Plain Text only). Thanks.

Now, timing is a possibility. Plug gap is also a potential culprit (how wide
are they gapped?). Did you replace the plug wires with the rebuild? Given
the heat in our engine compartments, the wires should be replaced if they're
old or mis-handled. It could also be a vacuum leak in any of the lines.

Yes, a good diagnostic check should identify problems related to A/F
mixture, timing, etc.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Moravek, David [mailto:David.J.Moravek@wcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 10:06 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
<snip>

Can anyone help with this problem? Can a diagnostic check find my problem?

David Moravek
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:03:21 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!

>· It is VERY slow when I first drive off from a standstill.
>· It also has very bad hesitation when my foot is into it.
>· It has moments of good acceleration, but only for a sec.
>· It feels like it will never build full power. But if I pump the
> gas peddle it feels like it will accelerate faster but nothing too quick.
>· I still have good power at the top end but it takes me forever to get to
that speed.
>· My check engine light is "ON"
>I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4

First thing to do is to find out what code the ECU is storing. That'll
likely give you a good direction to start looking. Could be some sort of
injector problem or a timing problem, possibly a bad connection to the MAF
sensor.

>I was wondering if could be a timing problem because of the back firing?

You might get backfiring if the mixture is very rich also. If the MAF is
sending funky readings to the ECU, and that's what the ECU is indicating
with the Check Engine light, then it goes into a "failsafe" mode and runs
the motor super-rich which could appear as the symptoms you describe.

>Can anyone help with this problem? Can a diagnostic check find my problem?

Hope that maybe helped, but I'd find out what the code is first before
starting to tear into the problem very far. You can construct a very simple
tool to read the codes from the computer and post the code to the list and
I'm sure someone can tell you what it means.

http://www.myzero.com/electrical/code.html

The codes on that page are for the DSM cars, but I believe the diagnostic
connector and the way it clocks out codes are the same at least for early
VR4's since the TMO Datalogger works on both. If I'm wrong, I'm sure
someone will correct me. ;-)

Hope that helps!

- -Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:07:21 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!

David;

Did you replace the engine with a new engine, a rebuilt engine,
or a used engine?
How many miles are on it? (60K performed?)
Have you reset the ECU? (unhooked your battery positive for 15
mins)
Are all your vaccum hoses all connected and fault free? (No
cracks, splits, etc)
Is your MAS plugged in properly?( ie have you or your mechanic
recently had your air filter off)

Best

Darc

(Victoria, BC)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:32:17 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!

This needs to be taken care of, it's probably the source of your problem. Most
dealers will only charge for 1/2 - 1 hour labor to retrieve the code. Just tell
them you want to know what is setting the code, and you will fix it yourself.
This should cost about $30.

At 12:06 PM 5/18/99 , you wrote:

>
> · My check engine light is "ON"
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:34:26 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: FREE MOD!!! was:1st Gen Hood scoops

Instead of getting that $120 headlight intake that will allow only a
trivial amount of air in, take the WHOLE headlight cover off!!!! I just
did it and can confirm that due to the wall around the headlight assembly
and the bump on the inside of the hood, there's only one finger of
clearance (sometimes less) for air to get thru. but still, you'll be
flowing a LOT more air than that little headlight intake (which I
understand is not even readily available). And you'll still have the use
of the headlight. It'll be ugly but functional.

I believe this friday is test & tune at Atlanta Dragway!!! anybody
coming??? I don't know yet if I'm gonna take the Supra and break 12s or
VR4 to try to get low 13s.

The bonnet scops are nice too but to say it's overpriced is an
understatement. That's why one of the guys here is working to design one
(hopefully).

On Tue, 18 May 1999 09:03:41 EDT TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
> Okay guys, since we are on the subject of hood scoops; I
>recall a >certain 3000GT website that included Japanese alterations; it
also had
>a >section on Kaze and Bozz Speed hood scoops. The Kaze section had a
>"headlight intake" modification (1st. generation only - I am very
>interested >in this part - price: $120); Also Bozz Speed makes "Bonnet
scoops"
>for our >1st. generation cars.
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:00:50 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------

I read the origional post and the guy said that the Getrag internals were replaced
with Corvette transmission internals thus leaving the Mitsu case.
My response now as then is --- ya right !!! I'll beleive that when I see it.

Jim Berry ---- 93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
 K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" -- Blitz SSBC
 [soon ] --- GAB struts -- Stillen SS lines
 GC/Eibach springs 550# F/350#R
 G-tech 0-60 = 4.75 sec ---- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:49:36 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RE: YUGO's <~EXACT SAME ISSUE HERE

Okay....everyone who has been reading my posts about my car......What was
said about the car in the yugo post...............is EXACTLY TO THE LETTER OF
EVERYTHING GOING WRONG WITH MY CAR SINCE I DID MY ENGINE SWAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just never put it in words like that in one post. My only computer codes
kept giving me EGR flow codes... I've replaced alot of things in the EGR
system. The code is gone....been gone for 500 miles.........but the car
still has the same problem. The MAS seems to be ok too. I'm still
searching for the problem.
.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:12:47 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: YUGO's <~EXACT SAME ISSUE HERE

So, gutting the pre-cats didnt fix it????

At 03:49 PM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>I'm still
>searching for the problem.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:21:08 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?

One quick comment,
are we all forgetting about HKS here? In my opinion after working with
Greddy, Blitz, and APEX'i electronic boost controllers, I think the HKS
works great at a decent price(roughly 450 for the EVC4). I would never
give up my EVC for anything as of now. The APEX'i interests me a little
but for a strait to the point, easy to program, easy to adjust boost
controller I think the EVC4 is damn hard to beat.
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:54:33 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: YUGO's <~EXACT SAME ISSUE HERE

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> Okay....everyone who has been reading my posts about my car......What was
> said about the car in the yugo post...............is EXACTLY TO THE LETTER OF
> EVERYTHING GOING WRONG WITH MY CAR SINCE I DID MY ENGINE SWAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> I just never put it in words like that in one post. My only computer codes
> kept giving me EGR flow codes... I've replaced alot of things in the EGR
> system. The code is gone....been gone for 500 miles.........but the car
> still has the same problem. The MAS seems to be ok too. I'm still
> searching for the problem.
>

Hmmm...disconnected the battery to reset ECU, unplugged and replugged the MAS just to
confirm a good connection while battery was disconnected, checked it's wires for breaks
or shorts, checked all vaccum hoses?? Dunno...is the timing belt off or about slip big
time (60 k??)>> Did you get a used engine advertised at 45k but really at 80k? Hard to
say...whatyaexperts say?

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:01:44 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

Jim Berry wrote:

> > > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> I read the origional post and the guy said that the Getrag internals were replaced
> with Corvette transmission internals thus leaving the Mitsu case.
> My response now as then is --- ya right !!! I'll beleive that when I see it.
>

Mmmmm...I was tactfully trying to imply the same Jim, while leaving the door slightly ajar for that 1
in100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 chance that a brilliant lad somewhere (Alpha
Centuri maybe) had actually solved the Getrag Blues.

On another note, I hear the shop in San Diego (grapevine up here in Canada) has Getrag parts..or at
least receives them wrapped in German newspaper. Maybe the flood gates are about to be cracked open?

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:22:42 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Gutting the Pre-cats HELPED

Gutting the pre-cats did help....i have alot more horsepower than
before....and the car goes a little faster...but I still have the same
problems......also........my acceleration seems to only work between 3500 and
5500 rpms......before 3500 rpm the car hesitates too much...and after 5500
rpm I don't have enough fuel.
If I drive slow....my car runs RICH ....if I drive FAST the car runs Lean
is how it seems. Plug wires will be my next investment.......
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:24:39 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

David_J or David Jimenez posted this on the Message Board a couple of weeks back. Nothing further has been said about the deal, other than here in the Tech Forum. I would say, that if nothing has been said by now, IT'S A DEAD ISSUE. Time to move on to fixing our problems with KNOWN SOLUTIONS - like Kormex really machining sets of synchros and having them available in June. My main surprise is that somebody like Kormex or MD Auto haven't latched onto this before - since they are in the rebuild business. Otherwise, if the supply pipeline is really that closed, then where do they get their parts from. I know that selling a $2,000 tranny is probably more profit for them than selling a set of synchro rings, so maybe their motive has been almost like Mitsu's - except giving us a much better price (sounds familiar doesn't it).
- --

On Tue, 18 May 1999 10:37:01 wce wrote:
>Okay, the key questions are:
>
>1) What year and model is the Corvette tranny. I'm sure there are a few.
>2) What modifications were required to accept it. I'm sure it just doesn't bolt in,
>regardless of whether or not he retained the transfer case for AWD.
>3)How well does it function/shift. Still seems too good to be true.
>4) Who is this unnamed guy. Have him post so we can discus his brilliance.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>
>
>> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
>> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>>
>> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny? Are you sure he
>> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD? Or did he just somehow swap
>> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work. I'm pretty sure
>> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
>> and have it work.
>>
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

HotBot - Search smarter.
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:24:46 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question

I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
tight....does that really effect the spark?? How tight should I get them
with a socket?? I have to torx wrench. Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:36:51 -0400
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.

Gwynne Spencer

At 11:59 AM 5/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
>
>> << someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a corvette 6
>> spd. >>
>> I believe 6 speed vette trans is by Getrag;
>> our car, Supra, Corvette and
>> Camaro.
>> I'll keep list posted with my progress.
>>
>> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
>
>The Vette etc. trans will not work.
>The basic problem is that OUR engine is TRANSVERSE
>(mounted sideways) and has 3 (THREE) power output
>points coming out of the transmission: 2 for front wheels, and
>one coming out BACK toward engine going INTO transfer case which
>changes direction of shaft rotation from SIDEWAYS
>to LONGITUDINAL (going front-to-back) to get to
>rear differential. Corvette, Supra etc are REARwheel
>drive and have very simple trans bolting to engine, and
>power output going from engine BACK to trans BACK to
>rear differential.
>
>I don't know what internal parts may be interchangeable,
>if any. I have been unable to get hold of my Getrag
>contacts for over a month ++...
>Of interest: Getrag is making the trans for an upcoming
>Audi AWD of about 350hp, I wonder what trans THAT
>uses, if it is heavier duty than ours etc.
>Getrag calls our 5-speeds "440" transaxles; the
>6-speeds are called "446" transaxles in their company's
>naming system.
>
>Jack Tertadian
>
>PS Contact Joe Kou for Ground Control group purchase, or
>goto website http://www.ground-control.com
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:52:09 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug question

There may be a spark plug torque specification in the manual, but I've never
used a torque wrench to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
much torque I apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.

More important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
than factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
the archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched to
the +4 plugs?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question

I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
tight....does that really effect the spark?? How tight should I get them
with a socket?? I have to torx wrench. Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:29:36 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux

In theory, if you align the car at a given ride heiht, adjust it on eway or
the other, then adjust it back, the alignement SHOULD be the way it was
before.

The trick is getting it back to precisely the same place.

In your case I highly recommend that a) you accept that camber and toe
adjustments are as critical as ride height especially for track use b) you
invest a bit in camber and alignment goodies that you can haul around and
use trackside very easily once you get the hang of it -- it isn't rocket
science. Ask the GC people about these tools and they can direct you to a
couple of manufacturers. Probably not what you wanted to hear but for a few
hundred more you'll be in much better shape.

That being said, I believe the first paragraph holds true.

Note that tire wear will be different on the track vs street (as you are
aware) and that handling at street height will be affected somewhat by the
different wear induced at the track height and track conditions.

Shouldn't be a big deal though.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Let me try the open track question again....
>
> I asked:
>
> > I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal
> ride height
> >> car to an open track event. When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the
> car, increase the
> >> camber, adjust out the high speed push, and just have a
> better handling
> car. When I'm all
> >> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
> >> stock height, and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
> Anybody see a problem with this?
>
> Barry said:
> >>
> >Nope. That'll work just great. Check the price on their camber
> kit. It is
> >affordable.
> >
> Oops, I mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.
>
> What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
> jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
> back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
> then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.
>
> I don't want to have to check corner weights or set the camber
> every time I
> do this.
>
> As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
> increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
> height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
> again. N'est ce pas?
>
> I may have to fiddle with ride heights at the first coupla track events to
> find the ride height settings that eliminate push, but once that's
> accomplished (and the settings noted), I forsee being finished
> with further
> fiddling, Fred.
>
> I am envisioning a SIMPLE trackside procedure, not a major
> alignment project.
>
> NOW does anyone see a problem with this?
>
> If it ain't as easy as I hope, I may have to start trailering to and from
> events. It's tough enough running the Old Poop Brake Shop all weekend, I
> don't need to open a front end shop too. Open Track events are supposed to
> be FUN.
> >
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:27:43 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply

There is NO kit. I have outlined the procedure before and sent a
drawing to some for the rear. It is tricky but can be done.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:53:40 -0400
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: (Fwd) Water Injection...

He intends to... as far as his other notes said.

Bill

On 18 May 99, at 2:34, TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/17/99 10:07:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
> millebi@kw.igs.net writes:
>
> << Doug is thinking about building a water injection system for < $300? (I
> think). He has the capability and has made one work in the past, he is just modifying
> his old design to work for a 3S.
>
> Bill >>
>
> Will he be selling these?

Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:34:51 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply

You mean no kit for the rear, right? If so then agreed, noone is making
one, at least not any of the top companies (TEIN, Cusco, HKS, GC etc.).
TEIN does make an upper pillow ball mount for the rear of our cars but it is
non-adjustable since that feature requires mods to the lower suspension
parts as well.

There are a number of kits for front camber adjustment. There are offerings
from GC, Cusco (HKS is the same kit) and TEIN. They include upper pillow
mounts as well. The GC kit is superior in that it also uses a special
bushing which drastically reduces wear and tear on the pillow ball mount.
It is however a universal fitment kit which uses four mounting hoels rather
than the three the stock upper plate uses. Some minor fabrication is
required.

Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> There is NO kit. I have outlined the procedure before and sent a
> drawing to some for the rear. It is tricky but can be done.
>
> Ron

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:42:30 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: 2 Quick Questions

1. Whats so good about the EVC I. I have the chance to get one but I
am undecided if it is better then the DSBC or EVC IV.
2. What MODIFICATION must be done to the HKS Sequential Blow Off valve
for it to fit a 94+. I have never installed on and was curious if this is
hard or very time consuming. Any info very much appreciated.
Thanks
Joshua
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:04:57 -0400
From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo Shelby is stronger than the
trans in my VR-4..

I think that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)

Regards,
Roger Crawford
94 Black VR-4
3SI #241

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.

I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.

Gwynne Spencer

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:18:16 -0400
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug question

30 ft. lbs - OUCH. I have owned many cars with aluminum heads and have
never seen a factory torque value that high. Most are in the 15 to 20 lb
range. For instance BMW cars up through 1992 call for 15 to 22.

I would be VERY worried about stripped threads at 30.

Gwynne Spencer

At 05:52 PM 5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>There may be a spark plug torque specification in the manual, but I've never
>used a torque wrench to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
>much torque I apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.
>
>More important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
>they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
>than factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
>the archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched to
>the +4 plugs?
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question
>
>
>I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
>tight....does that really effect the spark?? How tight should I get them
>with a socket?? I have to torx wrench. Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
>plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

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