--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #178
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest Friday, May 14 1999 Volume 01 : Number 178

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:22:28 EDT
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Funny Joke 8)

On the farm lived a chicken and a horse who loved to play together. One day,
the two were playing together when the horse fell into a bog and began to
sink. Scared for his life, the horse whinnied for the chicken to go get the
farmer to go get help! Off the chicken ran, back to the farm. Arriving, he
searched and searched for the farmer but to no avail, for he had gone to town
with the only tractor. Running around, the chicken spied the farmer's new
3000GT VR4. Finding the keys inside, the chicken sped off with a length of
rope, hoping he still had time to save his friend's life. Back at the bog,
the horse was surprised, but happy, to see the chicken arrive in the shiny
B'mer, and managed to get a hold of the loop of rope the chicken tossed to
him. After tying the other end to the rear bumper of the farmer's car, the
chicken then drove slowly forward, and with the aid of the powerful car
rescued the horse! Happy and proud, the chicken drove the VR4 back to the
farmhouse, and the farmer was none the wiser when he returned. The friendship
between the two animals was cemented - best buddies, best pals.

A few weeks later, the chicken fell into a mud pit, and soon he too, began to
sink, and cried out to the horse to save his life! The horse thought a
moment, walked over, and straddled the large puddle. Looking underneath, he
told the chicken to "grab his thingie" and he would then lift him out of the
pit. The chicken got a good grip, and the horse pulled him up and out, saving
his life.

The moral of the story? When you're hung like a horse, you don't need a
3000GT to pick up chicks.

X
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:53:57 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore

Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:48:37 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecore

Mine are red. Not sure if they are available in black.

Oskar
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 16:52
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore

>Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
>stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks
>
>Wayne
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:00:55 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Will not Idle?

> Well.. I've been letting my car idle for about an
> hour and a half now, and it's still not wanting to
> idle with the airconditioner off, and ideas?

Might pay to check the MAS connection, as this can
come loose and cause problems. Also check the y-pipe
connection as when this comes off/loose it will cause
problems idling.

You may like to also adjust the idle speed (see site
at http://beam.to/GTO_Manual), but this is probably not
an issue in your case.

Cheers,
Kevin.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:01:07 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecore

Mine are orange/red in color. Do not know if other colors are available.

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

>Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
>stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks
>
>Wayne

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:08:47 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecor

Magnecor's Home page is at http://www.magnecor.com/

The Race wires are Red, and the Conventional High
Performance wires are dark green/black. You can
have a look at some pictures of their products
at http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/Products.htm

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 15:09:58 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecore

Orange is what they sent me direct from the factory. They didn't give me a
color choice.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:54 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore

Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 07:22:46 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:

> xwing wrote:
> > MAYBE everybody else's cats but mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
> > some people's are only PARTLY plugged up, and they are wandering around
> > WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as fast as some of those others
> > Any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust costs performance/spoolup.
>
> Jack... I agree with you here...any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust is a
> problem. But, the stock system,
> if operating properly, is properly tuned. Gutting
> and a test pipe are cheapest solution in this case and will in all likelihood give a seat of the
> pants performance boost when compared to blocked exhaust performance which was occurring prior
> to this. However, if the stock system is operating as it should, gutting may find results that
> are a lot less than what were anticipated, including lower end bog. It also will create the
> Emissions Inspection problem noted earlier which can be a major hassle for someone who did not
> consider the ramifications of it. If the car is being prepped for the track, then I am with you
> a 100% on gutting the stock system, adding downpipes, test pipe, and replacing it from the cats
> back . My advise: follow Jack's if you're into
> major mods and/or track use...follow mine if you've modest mods and using it for a daily driver.
> Darc

Sounds like we agree! ExCellEnt!
Jack T.
Member
Road Warrior Contingent

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:58:54 -0400
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE9D90.392AA4A0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I found gutting the cats made a big difference in my car's performance, =
a '92 stealth tt. The car spools up quicker and definitely pulls much =
harder on the top end. Also the exhaust note, stock system, now sounds =
mean and switching to the tour mode is now a noticeable noise reduction =
where before I could hardly tell when it was activated. I wasn't able to =
do measured performance before and after due to prior to gutting I had a =
bad 2nd synchro, but trust me the car is much more responsive now.
I have 2 modded dsm's so I know a little about modding turbo cars and =
anything you can do to free up the exhaust helps, period! I could see =
how the stock cat-back might not be restrictive, but the stock downpipe =
is a joke. Small piping and 90* bends, I can't believe an aftermarket dp =
wouldn't help here. To give you an idea how a good flowing exhaust helps =
a turbo car consider this. On my talon, running 16g full 3" exhaust, I =
run 18lbs of boost on the street. Replacing the 3" exhaust with the =
stock system, 2" w/ cat, boost dropped to 14lbs and full boost was =
achieved 350rpms later. Btw fuel economy dropped 4mpg with the stock =
exhaust on. Granted a dsm exhaust is probably more restrictive than the =
3000 but it shows what a good exhaust gives you with a turbo car, =
increased power, quicker spool up which more than makes up for any low =
rpm torque loss, increased fuel economy. The power increase, which comes =
from the engine breathing easier, hence working easier, also has the =
benefit of longer life for your engine.=20

- ----------
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca[SMTP:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 1:49 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

However, gutting cats on an essentially stock
vehicle (stock turbos, stock injectors) is foolish and will likely net =
you more problems
than you want (Immissions Inspections) ofr marginal to negliable top end =
performance,
and poorer bottom end. The same holds true for the cat back =
system...for performance
your bucks are better spent elsewhere. Unless you're going to go wild =
and hairy with
fuel and turbos, leave the cats alone. Replacing them after the fact can =
be veeeery
expensive.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 04:37:55 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

I finaly got my exhhaust dropped.....and gutted the front pre-cat. I'll do
the rear in the morning. Let me tell everyone!!! I used a can of stuff
called PB blaster....it's or seized nuts and bolts....and it did the trick.
Now I still had to put some muscle behind the work....I used my legs to pop
em loose... but It beat paying a shop to torch em loose!! This PB blaster is
highly effective in loosening seized or rusted nuts and bolts. Oh...I need no
new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
re-usable condition. Another thing....my little trick on the pre-cat was to
drill around the edges first...and chop it all up after it was seperated from
the housing. So far so good. I cranked the car up and it sounds tacky but
mean as hell with no exhaust hooked up!!! I feel alot better right now.
Any word on whether or not I should go ahead and gut the main CAT?? Is it
a good idea or not? I have no mods. All stock here.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:02:07 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Will not Idle?

> Might pay to check the MAS connection, as this can
> come loose and cause problems. Also check the y-pipe
> connection as when this comes off/loose it will cause
> problems idling.

Unfortunately, this will not help as the car would also not run with the A/C on
if the MAS not properly connected (my own experience)

The best is always to drive the car and not only let it sit at idle ! The ECU
has to relearn from idle up to the midrange rpm and under different loads.

Hope this helps,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:52:05 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

> ... but the stock downpipe is a joke. Small piping and 90* bends, I can't
> believe an aftermarket dp wouldn't help here.

It looks funny and theoretically doesn't work well but it does. Remember the
rear bank is only a 3-cylinder 1.5 liter engine part and the exhaust flow is not
that big.

> On my talon, running 16g full 3" exhaust, I run 18lbs of boost on the street.

16G, this is the keyword here ! With our 2 9B (or 13Gs) running 15 psi the
exhaust (without the cats) is no restriction. This is fact ! Going for bigger
turbos and improving the fuel system will then need a better exhaust for sure.

> Granted a dsm exhaust is probably more restrictive than the 3000 but it
> shows what a good exhaust gives you with a turbo car, increased power,
> quicker spool up which more than makes up for any low rpm torque loss,
> increased fuel economy.

No offend broh, but you suggest that a "better exhaust" (what is a better
exhaust ?) will help on these issues for sure. This is not really true and it is
important to say "may gives you more power". The dyno showed that the car with
the stock exhaust had more torque in the lower rpm area as well as he peaked out
the highest hp rate. My figures would maybe be higher (with 13Gs) with the car
properly tuned in but the winter tires almost glow up on the dyno. There was
absolutely no advantage on the cars with the exhaust mods and the higher torque
curve in the midrange is due to the 13Gs.

> The power increase, which comes from the engine breathing easier, hence
> working easier, also has the benefit of longer life for your engine.

This are benefits that come from physical explainable issues, like temperature
drop, pressure drop. But you then run on 18psi compared to 16 psi and I doubt
that this will give you a longer engine live.

Nevertheless, I hope to put the car onto the dyno with removed pre-cats
sometimes this year so we'll be able to see real figures.

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:32:07 -0700
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions

>>4. This will sound strange; the belt is too limp. Pull it all the way
>>out and iron it, yes iron it with some starch at the Nylon setting on
>>the iron so you don't melt it. It is so limp that it folds and and
>>wrinkles so it binds and won't retract.

No offence, but I'd rather NOT do that !!!

If you're off by a couple degree, and even if it's NOT visible,
you'll start to change the fabric capability to expand, thus
seriously limiting the effectiveness of the belt in case of a crash.

That's for the SAME reason that a belt being used in an accident MUST be
replaced. When the belt locks, it'll heat at the shoulder contact point,
and the belt will perform nicely...once...second time, the belt may
really be "cut here"....and yes, Police and insurances companies know
about it, and they DO check it.

Henri

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:09:56 -0700
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Other Newbie Questions

Ok guys, my 92 RT/TT-S is still stock (so far), have about 60.000 kms
(40kmi), and I have the following problems..

Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
WOT...then it runs great.

Check everything in there, and it seems that Magnecore and regappingthe
plugs might be the answer, but I'm not the expert. I already got the plug
wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
the correct plug number.

The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me). Even
if I clutch in all the way to the floor, I can still feel the gears
contacting (probably 2nd and 3rd synchro start to go south, maybe 4th as
well). The clutch by itself is still in good condition, i.e not slipping.
And yup, I'm in the Turbo Clutch G.P.

Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...

The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
DBSC is still in the box)

Option number one.

I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)
When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
Redline in there.

Option number Two

I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
"warranty".....do you think they are.

I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
SERIOUS problems.

Another problem I have is that the "best" mitsu dealership in my area do NOT
know the car very well. In fact, even if they have a couple (like in TWO)
3000-GT, they NEVER changed the plugs in a 3-S (8-o(.

Best

Henri

PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
performed on the car at the same time ???

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 09:49:40 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

We use a product at work called Kroil (www.kanolabs.com) It works like
nothing I have ever used before. It's amazing, I have never had a bolt snap
off when using this product. Also a good tip is to rap on the nut you are
trying to loosen with a hammer after you spray your penetrant. This helps
the solvent creep into the cracks. I recently did an exhaust system on a
Honda and the shop that worked on it last time just welded the nuts
attaching the converter to the main pipe. Made my day just a little
brighter !

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 5:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

>I finaly got my exhhaust dropped.....and gutted the front pre-cat. I'll do
>the rear in the morning. Let me tell everyone!!! I used a can of stuff
>called PB blaster....it's or seized nuts and bolts....and it did the
trick.
> Now I still had to put some muscle behind the work....I used my legs to
pop
>em loose... but It beat paying a shop to torch em loose!! This PB blaster
is
>highly effective in loosening seized or rusted nuts and bolts. Oh...I need
no
>new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
>re-usable condition. Another thing....my little trick on the pre-cat was
to
>drill around the edges first...and chop it all up after it was seperated
from
>the housing. So far so good. I cranked the car up and it sounds tacky but
>mean as hell with no exhaust hooked up!!! I feel alot better right
now.
>Any word on whether or not I should go ahead and gut the main CAT?? Is
it
>a good idea or not? I have no mods. All stock here.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:54:32 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.
If you took one of your old ones and a new one, and screwed them both onto
a stud you will see that the old one will go on much easier. Another thing
is, they don't need to be torqued down more than 30 ft-lbs or so (the book
will tell you how much) I'm thinking this may be part of the reason they
were so hard to remove, because the last person to tighten them did so with
an impact wrench to about 100 ft-lbs.

Wayne

At 03:37 AM 5/14/99 , you wrote:
>Oh...I need no
>new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
>re-usable condition.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 09:00:19 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Other Newbie Questions

Henri:

>Option number one.
>
>I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped
>plugs)

Do this yourself and be sure it's done right. This will make a hugs
difference. Do this ASAP.

>When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and
>put
>Redline in there.

I'd recommend using Redline Shock Proof Heavy in the transfer case for
sure. However, I haven't had a great experience with it in the
transaxle, and personally prefer GM SynchroMesh.

Good luck!

Best regards,

SJ
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:18:05 -0400
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE9DF3.440A6BE0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

- ----------
From: R.G.[SMTP:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 4:52 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

=20

16G, this is the keyword here ! With our 2 9B (or 13Gs) running 15 psi =
the
exhaust (without the cats) is no restriction. This is fact ! Going for =
bigger
turbos and improving the fuel system will then need a better exhaust for =
sure.
Yeah, good point, with the stock turbos maybe they just can't flow =
enough air to take advantage of a freer flowing exhaust system, but =
gutting the cats definitely made a seat of the pants improvement for me. =
I would like to see if there's a difference above 15 psi, like at 18 or =
20.
=20
No offend broh, but you suggest that a "better exhaust" (what is a =
better
exhaust ?) will help on these issues for sure. This is not really true =
and it is
important to say "may gives you more power". The dyno showed that the =
car with
the stock exhaust had more torque in the lower rpm area as well as he =
peaked out
the highest hp rate. My figures would maybe be higher (with 13Gs) with =
the car
properly tuned in but the winter tires almost glow up on the dyno. There =
was
absolutely no advantage on the cars with the exhaust mods and the higher =
torque
curve in the midrange is due to the 13Gs.

By better exhaust I mean freer flowing exhaust, less restriction being =
the key here. I think to get really good info on mod improvement its =
best to be using the same car. There might be a lot of other variables =
between cars to try to compare the hp of 1 verses another. It would be =
best to perform the mods on 1 car and record the changes back to back.=20
I haven't seen a loss in low end torque in the dsm's from bigger =
exhausts, I believe its better, but maybe its because the stock turbo's =
in the dsm flow better than the 3000's. I can believe the stock 3000 =
exhaust is not that restrictive from the cat back, it looks pretty good, =
I have a problem with the looks of the dp, there has to be improvement =
available there.

This are benefits that come from physical explainable issues, like =
temperature
drop, pressure drop. But you then run on 18psi compared to 16 psi and I =
doubt
that this will give you a longer engine live.

I agree, what I was trying to convey is an easier working engine will =
last longer, an engine is an air pump, the easier you can get air in and =
out the more power you'll make or have the ability to make.

Nevertheless, I hope to put the car onto the dyno with removed pre-cats
sometimes this year so we'll be able to see real figures.

Now that would be interesting, and it could be that the precats =
prevented you from seeing any benefit of the dp, or maybe the =
aftermarket dp is just not an improvement over stock, design wise.

Bryan
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake =
lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:04:42 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60K Service...

- --=====================_92526560==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

All this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and price of
work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what if i offered a
60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to travel to Memphis to
have it done? The advantage to having me do it is, unlike the dealers, i take
pride in my work and take my time to do it right. I have 10 years experience
working on Mitsubishi's, starting with Starions, moving on to DSM's, and now
3/S's. Here's a run down of what you would get, and the price;

PARTS REPLACED:
Timing belt
Tensioner
Water Pump
Drive belts
Spark plugs
Air filter
Oil filter

FLUIDS CHANGED:
Oil
Trans fluid
X-fer case
Rear diff

PARTS INSPECTED:
Brake pads
CV Boots
Steering rack seals
Ball joints
Hoses

TRAVEL TIME:
Chicago - 8 hours
ST. Louis - 4 hours
Atlanta - 6 hours

PRICE: $750
As an added bonus, the car will be clean when you get it back...........

Wayne Hietala
901-363-3197

- --=====================_92526560==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
All this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and
price of work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what
if i offered a 60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to
travel to Memphis to have it done? The advantage to having me do it is,
unlike the dealers, i take pride in my work and take my time to do it
right. I have 10 years experience working on Mitsubishi's, starting with
Starions, moving on to DSM's, and now 3/S's. Here's a run down of what
you would get, and the price; 
 
PARTS REPLACED: 
Timing belt 
Tensioner 
Water Pump 
Drive belts 
Spark plugs 
Air filter 
Oil filter 
 
FLUIDS CHANGED: 
Oil 
Trans fluid 
X-fer case 
Rear diff 
 
PARTS INSPECTED: 
Brake pads 
CV Boots 
Steering rack seals 
Ball joints 
Hoses 
 
TRAVEL TIME: 
Chicago - 8 hours 
ST. Louis - 4 hours 
Atlanta - 6 hours 
 
PRICE: $750 
As an added bonus, the car will be clean when you get it
back........... 
 
Wayne Hietala 
901-363-3197 
</html>

- --=====================_92526560==_.ALT--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 08:06:03 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Other Newbie Questions

Hi Henri;

Change the plugs and wires yourself and it should take care of the hesitation, no
problem. I'd also be tempted to do the tranny fluid change myself as well and see if it
makes a difference. You never know, it could be a bit low. But, before this it might
also be prudent to take it into Mitsu and take them for a test drive to illustrate the
problem. They may try to say it's not enough of a problem yet for warranty work, but at
least this way you start the documentation process (have them record your complaintand
the symptoms) of a tranny starting to go south.

Best

Darc

Genesiscon Lehir wrote:

> Ok guys, my 92 RT/TT-S is still stock (so far), have about 60.000 kms
> (40kmi), and I have the following problems..
>
> Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
> WOT...then it runs great.
>
> Check everything in there, and it seems that Magnecore and regappingthe
> plugs might be the answer, but I'm not the expert. I already got the plug
> wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
> my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
> not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
> the correct plug number.
>
> The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me). Even
> if I clutch in all the way to the floor, I can still feel the gears
> contacting (probably 2nd and 3rd synchro start to go south, maybe 4th as
> well). The clutch by itself is still in good condition, i.e not slipping.
> And yup, I'm in the Turbo Clutch G.P.
>
> Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
> words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...
>
> The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
> DBSC is still in the box)
>
> Option number one.
>
> I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)
> When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
> Redline in there.
>
> Option number Two
>
> I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
> mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
> the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
> there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
> "warranty".....do you think they are.
>
> I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
> SERIOUS problems.
>
> Another problem I have is that the "best" mitsu dealership in my area do NOT
> know the car very well. In fact, even if they have a couple (like in TWO)
> 3000-GT, they NEVER changed the plugs in a 3-S (8-o(.
>
> Best
>
> Henri
>
> PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
> performed on the car at the same time ???
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:30:44 -0500
From: "Grant McFarlane (EUS)" <EUSGTME@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges

I'm thinking about installing a boost gauge on the A-pillar using the pods
that are available from a number of places. My question is, how much extra
work is involved by mounting on the pillar? Anyone here done it ? Let me
know your experiences.

Thanks,
Grant.
'93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:52:43 -0400
From: "Marc Jaffe" <marc@marcjaffe.com>
Subject: Team3S: ABS Modulator Motor woes!

For those of you who wish they did not have antilock brakes here is how you
do it!!!

Send me your ABS pump motor located under the passenger side fender. Easy as
that!
My motor is toast due to water getting in through the bolt..totally rusted
and the magnets are loose.

Mitsu wants $2600 for this motor.

It goes with out speaking that i will be without ABS for some time...

Any ideas for replacement? another company? any thing made in the US.?

Rebuildable?

I will be looking at junkyards...do these guys know what this part is worth?

Any other cars use this part so i can get it with out the stigma of the
"sports Car" setback?
The car has 69k miles so I do not belive i can yell at mitsu...
I will be talking to the dealer i bought me car off of lease from.
Any Help out there for this?
Thanx
Marc.

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:07:27 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS Modulator Motor woes!

>It goes with out speaking that i will be without ABS for some time...

I could be wrong, but I think emission and safety-related items are covered
under a different warranty.
It may actually be covered by Mitsu. I doesn't hurt to ask.

Rich/old poop/>

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:55:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS Modulator Motor woes!

> I could be wrong, but I think emission and safety-related items are covered
> under a different warranty.
> It may actually be covered by Mitsu. I doesn't hurt to ask.

Same here in Europe. Mitsu did the replacing of the two G-sensors in the fenders
on "good will" a year ago. Zero cost for me.

I think you should have to contact another dealer as I'm sure that the price you
were given is absolutely stupid. Try to contact Conicelli Mitsubishi(800)
892-8994 (DSMDealer@aol.com) and, isf possible, give them the part number for
the quote. Just make sure it is only the pump as the ABS ECU could also be
included.

Hope this helps,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 21:04:44 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges

I'm just painted the dual pod gauge holder from Autometer to fit the greyish
interior. The pod fits very good and is usally mounted with the delivered
plastic screws (or push ins). This doesn't look good and due to the good
fittment I'm gonna use a small dual side adhessive tape (used to stick carpets
to the ground)

Depending on what gauges you want you have to route the wires/hoses somewhere.
This can be done by drilling holes into the a pillar cover. But this is not what
I wanted to do.

The dual pod I have can be mounted pretty low, i.e. close fit to the dashboard.
Mounted this way, it should be possible to drill a hole close to the top of the
ventilation port on the left side and route them trough the slit between
dashboard an a-pillar to the new hole.

There are others on the list (like Mike in Germany) who have done this already
and it looked great.

> '93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4
 ^^^^^^
I like this, hehe :)

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:48:36 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Other Newbie Questions

Henri,

> Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
> WOT...then it runs great.

- - Running a can of injector cleaner may help (it did on mine)
- - wires
- - fuel filter
- - fuel pump resistor/relay
- - at 90'000km the big-big service should be done (Mitsu replaced the water pump
and tensioner pulley as well)
- - not sure about regapping as you are still running stock boost levels (do you
?)
- - how's the milage (mine is between 12-14l/100km)

> wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
> my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
> not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
> the correct plug number.

Henri, you have my number ! I'm 10 minutes away from Mitsu headquarter. They do
have almost everything in stock.

> The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me).

Our trannies are somewhat crunchy. Compared to the 200SX and 300ZX (three times)
I drove the difference is very noticeable (i.e. much better on teh Nissans). The
mechanic just would say that this is normal :/

> Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
> words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...

Pfhhu, try to drive with a friend in the car listening to the sound. I also
though it is comming from the back but finally it was the noise from the air
filter box :)

> The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
> DBSC is still in the box)

You know our dealers and they will say that all this stuff is pretty normal for
this car with the amount of km and even more that it is an imported one. The
most important one is the tranny and I don't know if Mitsu will do the work on
the Stealths. The headquarter garage in Winterthur already had some 3000GT from
the States and they have three people who know the cars (plus me, haha)

> I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)

Sure, plugs and wires are not a big deal.

> When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
> Redline in there.

Check the oil in the tranny at first. Especially look for any metallic
praticles.

> I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
> mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
> the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
> there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
> "warranty".....do you think they are.

As mentioned, they will probably say that this is quite normal. They probably
will do the the oil stuff (but using what oil ?) but not the plugs/wires as they
don't know how to do it. And I wouldn't feel good if anyone touches the car who
never say a manual !

> I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
> SERIOUS problems.

Agreed. Try what you can do and complain about both the problems (hesitation and
tranny) If you're in my area let me know and we can compare the cars.

> PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
> performed on the car at the same time ???

Yes, there was a brake line TSB. Not a big deal and they did it because I knew
about it and told them to do :)

Good luck and let us know the outcome

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 21:29:37 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

> You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
> expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.

I have and never had any problems reusing it. Also the Mitsu dealer reuses them
if they are not damaged due to taking them off the hard way (and they try to
sell you everything). No problems if everything looks good.

> If you took one of your old ones and a new one, and screwed them both onto
> a stud you will see that the old one will go on much easier.

Yes,due to the temperature expansion.No new ones really needed, just luxury :)

Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 13:06:39 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges

For the boost gauge, do you have to run a vacuum hose all the way into the passenger
compartment, up to the gage, or is there a remote sending unit?

"R.G." wrote:

> I'm just painted the dual pod gauge holder from Autometer to fit the greyish
> interior. The pod fits very good and is usally mounted with the delivered
> plastic screws (or push ins). This doesn't look good and due to the good
> fittment I'm gonna use a small dual side adhessive tape (used to stick carpets
> to the ground)
>
> Depending on what gauges you want you have to route the wires/hoses somewhere.
> This can be done by drilling holes into the a pillar cover. But this is not what
> I wanted to do.
>
> The dual pod I have can be mounted pretty low, i.e. close fit to the dashboard.
> Mounted this way, it should be possible to drill a hole close to the top of the
> ventilation port on the left side and route them trough the slit between
> dashboard an a-pillar to the new hole.
>
> There are others on the list (like Mike in Germany) who have done this already
> and it looked great.
>
> > '93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4
> ^^^^^^
> I like this, hehe :)
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 15:01:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

Which kind of self-locking nuts are we talking about here? Nylon/plastic
insert, interference threads, etc? That makes a HUGE difference on
whether they are reusable or not.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

On Fri, 14 May 1999, R.G. wrote:

> > You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
> > expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.
>
> I have and never had any problems reusing it. Also the Mitsu dealer reuses them
> if they are not damaged due to taking them off the hard way (and they try to
> sell you everything). No problems if everything looks good.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 23:00:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges

> For the boost gauge, do you have to run a vacuum hose all the way into the passenger
> compartment, up to the gage, or is there a remote sending unit?

This depends if you have a mechanic or electronic boost gauge. But also
electronic bosot gauges do have the boost sensing device mounted internally
(like the Blitz DSBC). The AutoMeter 30-30 boost gauge is mechanic and uses a
very small tube to sense boost.

// Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 23:02:47 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!

> Which kind of self-locking nuts are we talking about here? Nylon/plastic
> insert, interference threads, etc? That makes a HUGE difference on
> whether they are reusable or not.

No plastic nor nylon. The nuts do have a small flange that slightly compress the
nut when tightened. That's why reusing them is no problem. The nuts used on the
cat have a small interference to prevent from getting loose.

// Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 19:14:17 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

Roger and all,
None of the two cars is using a cat. and the one with more mods AND more
boost is still falling behind with the gutted pre cats and downpipe. So
far both cars have pretty safe EGT's. That is why in my experiences
gutted pre cats and a downpipe do not help 1/4 mile times much with stock
turbos.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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