--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #177
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Thursday, May 13
1999 Volume 01 : Number
177
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 13:59:52 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
Doesn't gutting the cats give your turbos
quicker spool up so your quarter
miles times be a lil
faster????
-----Original Message-----
From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 12, 1999 2:02 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
On May 12, wce@bc.sympatico.ca said:
> Just a
short note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat)
....Dyno tests in
>
Europe indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if
any, effect
upon
> 3S TT's which are running over 400hp with stock exhaust
systems.
Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a
boost
controller?
This sounds too good to be true. If this were indeed
true,
then I know what
my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I already have a
K&N filter in
an otherwise
stock (performance-wise)
car.
-sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake
lines,
Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder,
weatherstrip airflow mod,
Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.
--
****************************************************************************
***
Welcome
to the bridge, Mr. LaForge.
-- Picard, "Contagion",
stardate
42609.1
****************************************************************************
***
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 13:12:43 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Just picket the dealership
in question.. Stand out front of their new car
sales area with signs and
flyers saying:
Don't' buy Mitsubishi, they do not honor their
warranty.
About two hours of this on a busy Saturday, they will honor the
warranty.
They can't afford not to.
Just make sure to check to see if you
have to have a permit and check local
laws regarding "non-violent
demonstrations" before you begin.
> Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Terry Swift
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:06 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Doesn't surprise me one
single bit. They (Mitsu) will do anything from
having to honor an
agreement they put in place themselves. They have proven
that over and
over again especially with the 3si.
My advice is to have the guy take all
his documentation on when he first
started having problems with the tranny
(hopefully he visited a dealership
and got some type of documents) and the
receipt for the boost controller and
show them that it happened prior.
Then get on the horn / fax to Mitsu Corp.
both here in the USA and Japan and
lay it all out and DEMAND they stand up
to THEIR warranty. If that
doesn't work, then the BBB and other Consumer
Agencies. Another resort
is to get ahold of the local TV stations that do
Consumer Action type items
and have them do a report on it (that is if it's
up and up). Alot of
publicity like this in the news will usually get some
action - especially
when it looks bad for the Dealerships / Manufacturer.
- --
On Wed, 12
May 1999 10:00:43 Nick Xiong wrote:
>Hi guys I forwarding this
from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any
advice
>contact him
>
>> Basically, after months of
fighting different Mitsubishi dealerships
>and > explaining to them
that my transmission was failing; I had finally
>found
>one >
that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
>warranty
(
>> from last July of 1998 when I had a new transmission put
in).
>Everything
>was > set and had an appointment to install a
new transmission yesterday
>under
>> warranty. Well after I
dropped my car, the service manager had called
>me
>> back and
stated that, "Your car has been altered by an
after-market
>boost
>> controller; that voids and Nulls any
warranty you have on your VR4. I
>did
>> not know that
about your car when you came to us last week".
This
>Service
>> manager stated to me that he even documented my
vin# in Mitsubishi's
>system
>> that my car was "altered &
modified". Meaning that no other Mitsubishi
>
>> dealership
would honor any warranty transmission. In other words, he
>"black
> balled" (service manager's own words)
me!
>>
>> I don't understand?!; There are several
Mitsubishi dealers and other
>> manufacturer's (such as Toyota) that
allow their customers warranty
>work
>even > with their
modifications. But this guy just tried to act
>conservative
with
>> me! I truly thought of removing my boost controller and
boost gauge
>before
>I > dropped the car; but when I took the car
in last week and explained
>my
>> problem with the transmission,
they had originally approved it and made
>an
>> appointment for
me!? But after my whole day of planning (taking
time
>off
>> from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4
off for the warranty
>> transmission that I was entitled to; they
DENIED me of my right to my
>> warranty transmission.
>>
Anyway, I have spoken to several other VR4 owners and they stated to
>find
> this Letter from GReddy that states that the GReddy Profec
B
>conforms to
>> manufacturer's standards; and that will help my
case. All I want is
>what I
>> am entitled to: the
new transmission under my warranty. I was DENIED
>that!
>>
I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that
boost
>> controller but had transmission problems way before I
installed the
>>
modification.
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get
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>or
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>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 11:17:24 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
> Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any
advice
> contact him
> > back and stated that, "Your car has been
altered by an after-market
> boost
> > controller; that voids
and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4
I doubt that it's that
easy for them to void a warranty. SEMA the aftermarket trade
group has been
fighting this problem for years. One of the key points on your
side is that
they have to prove that the modification resulted in the failure of
the
transmission. The modification was not done to the
transmission.
[ spend a few bucks and talk to a contract lawyer
].
You can argue that you were running moderate boost and used it
primarily
for passing on two lane roads. You might also try to talk to
someone at SEMA
maybe they can recommend a course of action. Or maybe
just a small claims
action might jog the dealer into action, in Calif.
you can get up to $5000 in a
small claims judgment . I assume in that
case you need to spend money
to repair it first .
Another point is
to get the dealer to decline in writing and state the reason for
not
repairing your car. In addition write down as many details of this search
to
find a dealer as you can while the memory is still fresh. If you go to court
the
more written documentation you have the
better.
Good
luck -- Keep us up to-date -- Jim Berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 15:07:40 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
> > Hi guys I forwarding
this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any
advice
> > contact him
> > > back and stated that, "Your
car has been altered by an after-market
> > boost
> > >
controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4
I know that here in Va, and possibly other states, the manufacturer cannot void
a
warranty based on modifications. They can deny a repair where the
loss was caused as a
direct result of a modification, and they have to
substantiate this. I'd definitely get
it in writing, and refer to the
owner's manual. Coverage's are stated there, and if
what they say isn't
in the manual, they're lying. Get it in writing, with the reason
why
they refuse to cover it, I'd even go as far as to have them site the
owner's
manual/warranty book in the letter. I'd then take the letter to
the BBB and other
places, not sure the insurance commissioner would get
involved in warranty claims. I
like the idea of picketing also, check
the laws first though.
Had I known the above when I had my trans
replaced over 2 years ago, I would have
laughed and shoved my old
transmission up the service advisor's a** after he told me my
clutch was
releasing high, and my new trans would have no warranty if I didn't
replace
the clutch also.
Here's to Mitsu, they suck and
blow...
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 15:21:25 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!! i'M BLACKED TOO!!!
I was black listed
by MITSU AS WELL!!! My engine had problems under
warranty. I
took it to Mitsu 4 times to have it fixed. The 4th time it was
supposively completely fixed
The next day....the car threw a rod.
Mitsu told me they were going to
warranty the car....then 15 min.
later....they told me they changed their
mind. Mitsubishi
is very rediculous and sorry in America. They also don't
know
how to work on their own cars. You will never get them to warranty it
now....unless you pay thousands for an attorney.
I like my
car....but I HATE Mitsubishi with a passion.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 15:24:50 -0500
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Smart Tire
Hey everyone,
I ran across this product on the
DSM digest and I thought I would forward it
to the group. Its a tire
pressure monitor. The sensors go inside each tire
and the monitor
mounts in the cabin of your car. Looks really cool. I
think its
similar to what the new Vettes have. Has anyone tried
this
product? Check it out at: http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html
Any
thoughts??
later,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S
at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 23:57:21 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
> Does anyone know if you gut the pre-cats,
will we still pass
> New York State instpection?
Why not asking the
department <g> ?
How do they do the test and how do they want to find
out if the pre-cats are
still there ? With our pollution test here in
Europe, the pre-cats do not give
anything when the main cat is hot. On my car
currently running no cat (for
tests, of course) it smells different when hot
than with a cat. When driving out
of the garage in the morning smell is the
same.
Cheers,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius
Street Race pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 23:48:52 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
The one thing that works good for this
purpose is direct Water Injection.
Unfortunately, we do not have a lot space
left in the engine bay and I still
haven't found a place for the pump
:(
Get more information on the Aquamist homepage
:
Cheers,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius
Street Race pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 00:03:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
> Doesn't gutting the cats give your turbos
quicker spool up so your quarter
> miles times be a lil
faster????
This is one of the main purposes speed-wise. Power-wise the
effectivity of the
turbos will raise and the same compressed air will be less
heaten up. The last
is caused by the better effectivity, plus the less heat
due to the better
evapuration of the O2 sensor
housing.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 00:00:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
> Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air
filter and a boost controller?
> This sounds too good to be
true.
FOR SURE it is TRUE ! Remeber, you are running on an ultra-save
boost-level and
high-rich fuel system. Cranking up the boost is the basic mod
on all turbo
engines. No way around this !
> If this were indeed
true, then I know what my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I
> already have a
K&N filter in an otherwise stock (performance-wise) car.
BUT, please
follow any advice you find on teh net and DO NOT OVERBOOST ! You can
check
out my ignorance-pictures on my web site ;-/
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race
pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 00:08:14 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
Just a small note :)
> Just a short
note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat) ....Dyno tests in
> Europe
indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if any, effect upon
> 3S
TT's which are running over 400hp with stock exhaust systems.
All three
cars still had their pre-cats still in the path. Mikes and mine both
had a
testpipe and cat-back while Jims had still the full stock exhaust
installed.
Jims peaked at the highest hp level while mine had the higher tourque
curve
in the mid rpms (due to the 13Gs). For sure the pre-cats will be
eliminated
sometimes and then the dyno should show the real figures
again.
Cheers,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 23:52:41 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
My european owners manual says
the following :
"Changing the system in any way not aproved by Mitsubishi
will void your
worldwide 3year warranty"
I think this is clear enough
... and, of course, you will change the performance
mods back to stock before
you go to a dealer ;-)
Cheers,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 00:13:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
Sorry, forgot the URL for the water
injection :
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 00:21:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Smart Tire
For sure a good product !
But why do they not
tell you any price ?? Furthermore, they let YOU give a price
when you want to
order it. So how much would you pay for this feature ?
> Has anyone
tried this product? Check it out at:
> http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html
Cheers,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 15:32:28 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
Roger is absolutely correct with his
advise here, and can be backed up by a myriad of
others who found out the
hard way---*do not boost past 1 bar* (that's 15psi). Otherwise
count on a
rebuild sooner or later, and it'll likely be sooner than you want, and
more
expensive than you dreamed!!!. Set it at 1 bar and leave it there! If
you decide on the
fuel mods and turbo mods, then peruse our archives for
threads on this... or start
interacting with Roger, Chris, Barry, Jack, and
numerous others here, who are the bona
fide heavyweights with these mods and
can save you a whole bunch of heartache with some
advise.
R.G.
wrote:
> > Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a
boost controller?
> > This sounds too good to be true.
>
>
FOR SURE it is TRUE ! Remeber, you are running on an ultra-save boost-level
and
> high-rich fuel system. Cranking up the boost is the basic mod on all
turbo
> engines. No way around this !
>
> > If this were
indeed true, then I know what my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I
> >
already have a K&N filter in an otherwise stock (performance-wise)
car.
>
> BUT, please follow any advice you find on teh net and DO
NOT OVERBOOST ! You can
> check out my ignorance-pictures on my web site
;-/
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz
DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
> ATR DP/testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
> Bremsa
brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads
>
> Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 18:37:55 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!
Hey
guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
OFFWHEN
THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
forth all
day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking. this is
highly agrivating!!!!! I've tried to use wd-40 on it and
everything. What
tool or method am I going to have to use
to get these damn things off???
Please help!!!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:02:56 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Drag Slicks question
I don't know about full drag slicks in
17's. Nitto makes some nice Drag
Radials in a 275/40-17
though.
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:38:36 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
Nitrous won't hurt anything if properly
used. If you only want something
to make up for hot weather a small 40
or 50 shot will be plenty, and
still small enough not to do any damage as
long as you keep enough fuel
flowing.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:26:29 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Sorry for what happened that
really sucks. But, lesson learned. The
ball is in the dealers
court when they get the car, they don't like the
mods they keep their
tranny. I for one would NEVER leave a boost
controller in for warranty
work unless you know the people personally.
Leaving it in with unfamiliar
people is just begging for trouble. Well
now you can join in on the
bandwagon to get some damn parts released for
the Getcrap
tranny's.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:35:22 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
A quick comparison-
my friend and I both have
1G VR4's. He has many more mods than me
INCLUDING gutted pre-cats and
an ATR downpipe. So far he hasn't beat me
at the track or on the street
(I have stock downpipe and stock pre cats)
I usually get him by a reasonable
amount until about 115mph and up where
he is SLIGHTLY quicker. So in my
opinion, if you have stock turbos a
downpipe and gutted pre cats. DO NOT have
a big effect until higher
speeds which you will never reach in the 1/4
mile. However, with more
mods, (bigger turbos, etc.) I think that it
will help a lot.
Just my experienced .02 cents
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:10:52 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Taking out cats
First of all anything over 150 dollars for two
small pre cat replacements
is rediculous. Don't get me wrong, I am in
no way a cheap skate, but I
think that anyone willing to spend 300, 500, etc.
on pre cat replacements
needs their heads completely examined. A new
pipe will NOT make that
much of a difference over gutting them. And I
also DO NOT agree with the
theory of gutting them will make the exhaust
gasses expand to quickly and
therefore lose velocity. Think about it,
the exhaust gasses coming out
of the turbo are running dead smack into a
brick wall when your pre cats
are in tact. Save the money on
replacements for something else and just
gut them.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 18:00:14 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Small
Hood Scoop
All,
Does anyone know were I might find a small (6" x
8") hood scoop that I could
mount behind my passenger side pop-up head
light. I'm committed to getting
fresh air into my K&N, and it
appears the only good way to do it is a
straight shot through the
hood.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 19:17:33 EDT
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Valve noise question
In a message dated 99-05-12 04:26:14 EDT, you
write:
<< It went into the shop yesterday & today they rang
& told me that 21 of
the 24 lash adjusters were worn & the
whole set are now going to be
replaced ( gotta love that extended
warrantye ) >>
Did they describe what criteria they use to
determine worn valves? I'm
thinking of opening up my engine to clean the
lash adjusters and I'd like to
know how to identify worn adusters. It would
be nice if I could take some
kind of measurement with a calipers to
determine worn/not worn.
Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 16:27:53 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newbie Q's - Common Probs
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
|This is a list of the more common problems with these cars:
> |
3. Driver's seatbelt failing to retract
> The seatbelt
retraction problem is usually due to the retractors
> "gunking up", and
can be fixed by cleaning the guides with a
> pen-knife or blade. Of
course if you kink them up, the ironing
> trick works too...
I had
this same problem for some time, and I found out the cause
just
recently. I had the plastic seatbelt access cover off, and I
noticed
that the seatbelt was "twisted" once over inside this cover.
I flipped it
over (you have to re-weave it through the guide) so
that it was properly
aligned, and now it retracts perfectly.
Two problems that are rather
problems that weren't mentioned
are: 1) faulty ECS system, 2)
faulty active aero system ... AMHIK
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 20:18:18 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Smart Tire
Funny, I just checked it out about an hour ago. I got as
far as
starting to order one for each of my vehicles and then it came up
with
the price of $299.00 for a passenger car. I bailed at this point:
that
is just way too much money! I'll use my $5 air gauge tank
you.
Regards,
Lynn
"R.G." wrote:
>
> For sure a
good product !
>
> But why do they not tell you any price ??
Furthermore, they let YOU give a price
> when you want to order it. So how
much would you pay for this feature ?
>
> > Has anyone tried
this product? Check it out at:
> > http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html
>
> Cheers,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
>
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 18:51:14 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!
Hi
MitsuVR41;
Try using penitrating oil---soak it on overnight and then
break them loose in the
morning. If they still are seized, you might have to
cut them off ( with a blade or a
cutting torch). The price of of new nuts and
bolts is insignificant to the hassel
involved
though.
Best
Darc
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> Hey
guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
>
OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
>
forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking. this
is
> highly agrivating!!!!! I've tried to use wd-40 on it and
everything. What
> tool or method am I going to have to
use to get these damn things off???
> Please
help!!!!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 22:32:39 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Brad's right, A guy did
this 3 Saturdays in a row here and the dealer
is now closed. Shame them into
it and don't give in easily.
> Just picket the dealership in
question.. Stand out front of their new car
> sales area with signs and
flyers saying:
>
> Don't' buy Mitsubishi, they do not honor their
warranty.
> About two hours of this on a busy Saturday, they will honor
the warranty.
> They can't afford not to.
> Just make sure to check
to see if you have to have a permit and check local
> laws regarding
"non-violent demonstrations" before you begin.
>
> >
Brad
> Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Terry Swift
> Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:06
PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner
blacklisted by mitsu!!!
>
> Doesn't surprise me one single
bit. They (Mitsu) will do anything from
> having to honor an
agreement they put in place themselves. They have proven
> that over
and over again especially with the 3si.
>
> My advice is to have
the guy take all his documentation on when he first
> started having
problems with the tranny (hopefully he visited a dealership
> and got some
type of documents) and the receipt for the boost controller and
> show
them that it happened prior. Then get on the horn / fax to Mitsu
Corp.
> both here in the USA and Japan and lay it all out and DEMAND they
stand up
> to THEIR warranty. If that doesn't work, then the BBB and
other Consumer
> Agencies. Another resort is to get ahold of the
local TV stations that do
> Consumer Action type items and have them do a
report on it (that is if it's
> up and up). Alot of publicity like
this in the news will usually get some
> action - especially when it looks
bad for the Dealerships / Manufacturer.
> --
>
> On Wed, 12
May 1999 10:00:43 Nick Xiong wrote:
> >Hi guys I forwarding
this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any
advice
> >contact him
> >
>
>> Basically, after months of fighting
different Mitsubishi dealerships
> >and > explaining to them that my
transmission was failing; I had finally
> >found
> >one >
that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
>
>warranty (
> >> from last July of 1998 when I had a new
transmission put in).
> >Everything
> >was > set and had an
appointment to install a new transmission yesterday
> >under
>
>> warranty. Well after I dropped my car, the service manager had
called
> >me
> >> back and stated that, "Your car has been
altered by an after-market
> >boost
> >> controller; that
voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4. I
>
>did
> >> not know that about your car when you came to us last
week". This
> >Service
> >> manager stated to
me that he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
> >system
>
>> that my car was "altered & modified". Meaning that no other
Mitsubishi
> >
> >> dealership would honor any warranty
transmission. In other words, he
> >"black > balled"
(service manager's own words) me!
> >>
>
>> I don't understand?!; There are several
Mitsubishi dealers and other
> >> manufacturer's (such as Toyota)
that allow their customers warranty
> >work
> >even > with
their modifications. But this guy just tried to act
>
>conservative with
> >> me! I truly thought of removing my
boost controller and boost gauge
> >before
> >I > dropped
the car; but when I took the car in last week and explained
>
>my
> >> problem with the transmission, they had originally
approved it and made
> >an
> >> appointment for me!?
But after my whole day of planning (taking time
> >off
> >>
from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4 off for the warranty
>
>> transmission that I was entitled to; they DENIED me of my right to
my
> >> warranty transmission.
>
>> Anyway, I have spoken to several other
VR4 owners and they stated to
> >find > this Letter from GReddy that
states that the GReddy Profec B
> >conforms to
> >>
manufacturer's standards; and that will help my case. All I want
is
> >what I
> >> am entitled to: the new
transmission under my warranty. I was DENIED
> >that!
>
>> I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that
boost
> >> controller but had transmission problems way before I
installed the
> >> modification.
> >
> >
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> >For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 10:16:42 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> HOW GET
BOLTS OFF WHEN RUSTED OVER?
> tools keep breaking. I've
tried wd-40. What
> tool or method?
Best
way: Get a compressor and a half-inch impact wrench with
a set of
extended reach impact sockets. The PROPER size will
probably zing off
all the rust and then spin around the bolt, but then
the 1mm SMALLER size
will fit and work great. I know,
I just did it the other day.
Airpowered impact wrenches RULE
for this, and harmonic damper bolts,
etc.
BTW, the Ingersoll-Rand model 2131 is best so far, it spins
the
Snap-On and Mac impacts in REVERSE when my buddies have
"Impact Wars"
to see what tools are really top dog :)
Jack T.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 20:41:16 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!
- -----
Original Message -----
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my
cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!
> Best way: Get a
compressor and a half-inch impact wrench with
> a set of extended reach
impact sockets.
Additional note --- use a six point socket for
best grab, the twelve point
do have a tendency to round the nut easier.
Impact sockets are generally
six point but many folk don,t have a complete
set.
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 10:59:22 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gutting out cats
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
gutting
precats, main cat Dyno tests in Europe
> indicate gut cats have
marginal if any effect on 3S TT's
> running over 400hp with stock exhaust
equipped with only a
> BC and K&N. To increase HP over this larger
injectors
> and turbos are next step, after which consider exhaust
system. gutting cats on
> stock turbo stock injector is foolish and
will likely net you more problems
> for negliable top end performance and
poorer bottom end. same for the cat back system.
> Unless you're
going to go wild and hairy with
> fuel and turbos, leave the cats
alone.
> Darc
I disagree with this cat statement. With all
due respect to the dyno testing which has been
interesting, it is still
anecdotal and here is my anecdote.
My stock 94 3000VR4 did a 14.79 @
90mph after I bought it in March 1999.
It was slow. It was a
TURD. I took the wastegate hoses
OFF for max boost potential and that
didn't help.
I gutted the main cat and did a 13.24 @ 103, feathering the
throttle to avoid
the now-easy to hit fuelcut! It spooled like a
dream!
The main cat was semi melted/filled with crap. It turns out that
(just discovered
last weekend) the rear PREcat had totally self-destructed
and sent all its material
into the frontend of the maincat, and a fist-sized
chunk of the after-part of the
FRONT cat did the same...so plugging up the
maincat, and costing BIG
performance.
MAYBE everybody else's cats but
mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
some people's are only PARTLY plugged
up, and they are wandering around
WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as
fast as some of those others on the
internet, 'cause the CATS can't be to
blame because some dyno tests said...
Any restriction to a properly tuned
turbo's exhaust costs performance/spoolup. If the
dyno cars lost
SIGNIFICANT bottom end then they may have been too lean on the bottom
and
computer didn't understand it; there may be some effect of superior
cylinder
cleanout that the cam/mixture/ignition is not optimized for. I
agree that the stock
exhaust is really not bad, but as you increase gas flow
it starts to choke off
further gains more and more, like a
parabolic/logarithmic curve.
Gutting cats is a basic mod IMO. It is a
factor
easily removed from the equation for free (or replace them for small
cost) that
CAN make from little (in some experiences) to an unbelievable LOT
(in my
experience on one of my 2 VR4) of difference.
The same 94 with
bleeder valve boost control, K&N, and gutted MAIN
cat (rear precat
also blown out as noted above) did 12.682@107.20mph
at dragstrip.
The
first mod on these cars is a bleeder valve for upping the boost.
If you want
some minor increases from that first and most important step,
get a K&N
filter (kit for DSM's since cheaper and bigger filter; I can't document
how
much filter helps, I think it is quite minor but is cheap) and
I'd say main
cat replace with testpipe or gut 'for offroad use only'.
After that, gut
precats and consider a downpipe and an exhaust.
Then you will be
frustrated with fuelcut and will be needing bigger
fuelpump and 550/560
injectors and VPC to control injectors...
BTW, VPC/GCC with 720 injectors
took car to 12.386 and 109.5mph at drags,
front precat still partly there, no
other changes. Stock exhaust except gutted main
and rear precat.
Nice and quiet!
And then some bigger turbos...
Once you are over
18psi you are starting to court piston breakage unless you have
excellent
(over 100 octane) gas. Of course, it is certainly possible to go
to
22-25psi with a little nitrous and do just fine for a pretty long time,
too...
"ask yourself one question: do you feel lucky?" Forged
pistons are needed here.
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 23:20:21 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts
off!!!
fwiw, I had the same problem (yeah, I know.. who hasn't..)
and there was NO
F%@#ing way it was coming off with oil or an impact
wrench.. took it to my
favorite local muffler guy who proceeded to
heat it to a nice glowing orange
with a torch.. came right off although
it still took some effort.. now, I
know you might not want to ask a
shop to do the cat excavation work, but once
it's broken free you could take
it back home and do it.. I would also suggest
taking new nuts and bolts
to replace the rusted ones.. (make sure they're
brass though to keep
them from seizing again.. I think brass is right..)
hmm.. it
just dawned on me that the car may not be in a drivable condition..
in that
case, nevermind.. also, don't bother trying to use a propane torch..
it
won't get nearly hot enough..
Dave
ex 91 VR4 owner :(
but
actively looking for a replacement! :)
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi MitsuVR41;
>
> Try using penitrating oil---soak it on
overnight and then break them loose in the
> morning. If they still are
seized, you might have to cut them off ( with a blade or a
> cutting
torch). The price of of new nuts and bolts is insignificant to the
hassel
> involved though.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> MitsuVR41@aol.com
wrote:
>
> > Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL
DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
> > OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've
been riding my bike back and
> > forth all day ....miles
now.......because tools keep breaking. this is
> > highly
agrivating!!!!! I've tried to use wd-40 on it and
everything. What
> > tool or method am I going to
have to use to get these damn things off???
> >
Please help!!!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 12 May 1999 23:25:39 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Small Hood Scoop
on a related subject, I think the bozz speed
bonnet scoops for the '91-'93 look pretty
cool, but there is no way I'm
paying $380 for two unpainted pieces of fiberglass. I'm
futzing around
with molds and plaster casts right now, just for the hell of it.
I
might try making my own.
Dave
Trent wrote:
>
All,
>
> Does anyone know were I might find a small (6" x 8") hood
scoop that I could
> mount behind my passenger side pop-up head
light. I'm committed to getting
> fresh air into my K&N, and it
appears the only good way to do it is a
> straight shot through the
hood.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 18:26:27 +1000
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a
message dated 99-05-12 04:26:14 EDT, you write:
>
> << It
went into the shop yesterday & today they rang & told me that 21
of
> the 24 lash adjusters were worn & the whole set are now
going to be
> replaced ( gotta love that extended warrantye )
>>
>
> Did they describe what criteria they use to determine
worn valves? I'm
> thinking of opening up my engine to clean the lash
adjusters and I'd like to
> know how to identify worn adusters. It would
be nice if I could take some
> kind of measurement with a calipers to
determine worn/not worn.
>
> Paul Klusman
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
I'm
not sure Paul.
The service guy just said that 21 of weren't "within spec".
But I'm not
sure of the measurement that they
use.
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 02:30:54 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: NHRA Rule book?
- -----Original Message-----From: Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>
|Is there a copy of the
NHRA Rule Book on line someplace?
It's about 300 pages if I remember
correctly, so I doubt it...
Sears Point Raceway has a 5 page summary of the
most pertinent rules
as they interpret them. Download it at:
www.bobforrest.com/Team3S/NHRA-Rules.zip
If
there's something questionable, check with your local track
for
clarification.
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 11:38:12 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
> I usually get him by a reasonable amount
until about 115mph and up where
> he is SLIGHTLY quicker. So in my
opinion, if you have stock turbos a
> downpipe and gutted pre cats. DO NOT
have a big effect until higher
> speeds which you will never reach in the
1/4 mile.
Well, I assume that you both have the main cat in place, right
? It would help
to see if the temperature inside the y-pipe decreased after
gutting the
pre-cats. With this, you can increase the boost a little that
finally gives the
advantage. Just watch out to stay rich and the IDC is not
going too high ;-)
Also your friend got a test-pipe for the ATR dp and I
wonder if he ever used it.
Last but not least, the comparision MUST be done
at exactly the same boost
level, otherwise you can't say the one is faster
than the other.
> However, with more mods, (bigger turbos, etc.) I
think that it will help a
> lot.
Yep, upgrading the exhaust makes
only sense after the fuel system has been
upgraded. Jack went the cheap and
performance-wise way. For him a cat-back like
the Borla would help to save a
lot of weight that finally gives better 1/4 mile
times but not really a lot
of performance. On my car the weight of the stock
exhaust kept the car low,
with the Borla I got a SUV....
I mentioned a technical explanation to the
pre-cats in a previous post and about
2 years ago we measured the pressure
and temperature in the O2 sensor housing
using an O2 sensor replacement. The
result was that the pressure was higher than
supposed (I wish I saved the
readings) to be and that's why I then ordered the
downpipe and high flow cat.
Unfortunately, I never did such a test again as the
session as just too
expensive for just finding out what the new backpressure is.
At this time I
never saw a pre-cat but for sure gutting them will lower this
backpressure
and therefore increases the turbos ability to spool
up.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 11:47:21 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts
off!!!
Everything is already said but I never used a torch on my cars.
Heating the
exhaust up is the key point to get the damn bolts off. I always
drive about 15
minutes before I start to remove anything on the exhaust. Of
course I wear some
think gloves then, hehe. Also a heat gun (better
hairdryer) and lots of WD-40
overnight did a good job for me.
Good
luck !
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 11:43:36 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Small Hood Scoop
> Does anyone know were I might find a small
(6" x 8") hood scoop that I could
> mount behind my passenger side pop-up
head light.
Search on the net for "hood scoop" and you'll get some
different sites with such
scoops. Of course cutting the hood will be the most
effective mod but you can
also do something good to the headlight cover. Just
remove the cover and drive
the car (not in rain). If possible, place a temp
meter probe close to the filter
and do a back-to-back test. If you see a
difference you can either design a
headlight scoop like the one from KAZE but
cheaper as well as you can take a
factory cover and mount the scoop on it.
This will be cheaper and easier to do
as cutting the hood.
Let us know
:)
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 15:51:13 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Gremlins update .... (maybe solved)
Maybe you remember that I
spoke about the Gremlins in my car that caused the car
to die during traffic
and also some stumble in the higher rpms. As I have to
redo some of the mods
due to our 5 year interval of government testing (no
comment please) I
thought it's a good idea to check the behaviour afterwards.
here my findings
:
a) replaced the HKS SBOV with the stock bypass valve
I
experienced more lag (with the 13Gs) at the very first ride afterwards.
But
the small hesitation when driving on the Autobahn with the cruise
control
engaged was gone ! This leads me to the conclusion that a Blitz BOV
setup with
the stock bypass valve works the best for performance and
cruising. The
stumbling during acceleration was still the same.
b)
checked the front plugs
Found out that I've torqued them down way too much.
Redid them and I'm happy
that they are still ok
c) During a test ride
I exceeded 1bar and then the car stumbled and died
Yeah, of course it rained
cats and dogs and I was 3 miles away from home in the
dark forest (huuuhu).
The y-pipe was fine and the intercooler piping as well ...
but not the front
hard pipe that goes below the water hose. There is a clamp
underneath that
was loose.... tststs (I'm my biggest enemy). Car runned good
afterwards but
with a lot stumbling above 3000rpms (code set ?)
d) The stumbling
behaviour
The exact same behaviour in any gear but starting around 3500
indicated to me
that there is any ignition problem. Unhooked battery to reset
any code ... same
results. Inserted back the plastic y-pipe tubing inside the
intake pipe (after
the MAS, coming from the bypass valve hole) ... same
results.
e) Gremlins ...
My stomach said that this stumbling and the
Gremlins I had earlier seem to come
from the same problem: Ignition. Checked
the wires : damn loose boots ! I found
No.3 and 6 were so loose that they
didn't made good contact.i.e. higher rpms,
less spark -> stumbling ->
hesitation. I regapped the contacts, cleaned them and
hooked them up again
... all problems gone (so far).
The last ignition wire plug (Nr.6) is
very close to the water hose and therefore
can be pushed out by it during
vibration. The best would be a 45° angled boot
would be prefect for it but
only custom made wires feature this. As the wire
contact problem seems to be
the solution for my "Gremlins" I think it's good to
check them early and
often for a prefect seat.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads (too
soft)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 09:10:39 -0500
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 93 Stealth TT for sale
Hey everyone,
A friend of mine is
selling his 93 Stealth R/T TT. Go to:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/for-sale.html
to get all the
details about it. The car is located in Minnesota.
Please send all e-mails
privately.
Thank you,
Curt G
95 R/T
TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 09:13:15 -0500
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts
off!!!
There has been some good advice on how to remove the bolts,
however, if
what you told me on the phone the other night is true about the
engine
being replaced recently, you may be trying to remove the wrong
bolts
because they should have been removed recently to swap engines. I think
you
may be going after the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the rest of
the
downpipe. I would leave these 2 alone until the downpipe is out from
under
thew car. If you can at least remove all necesary bolts to drop
the
downpipe, (2 up front next to the motor mount, 2 in the rear up above
the
tee in the downpipe, and 2 at the rear of the downpipe in front of the
main
cat) the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the downpipe itself will
be
much easier to remove with the aid of a vise and a saw. (or taking it to
a
shop that has an acetelene torch)
Wayne
PART NUMBERS
Pre-cat
nut - MB059359
Pre-cat stud (if any break) - MD014195
Pre-cat gasket -
MB687002
Main cat gasket - MB687004
At 05:37 PM 5/12/99 , you
wrote:
>Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE
BOLTS
>OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike
back and
>forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep
breaking. this is
>highly agrivating!!!!! I've tried to
use wd-40 on it and everything. What
>tool or method am
I going to have to use to get these damn things
off???
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 16:42:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the boltsoff!!!
Good
advice, but I'd took the dp WITH the cat in place down. This because the
nuts
infront the cats are stuck for sure. I had to cut them.
> downpipe. I
would leave these 2 alone until the downpipe is out from under
> thew car.
If you can at least remove all necesary bolts to drop the
> downpipe, (2
up front next to the motor mount, 2 in the rear up above the
> tee in the
downpipe, and 2 at the rear of the downpipe in front of the main
> cat)
the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the downpipe itself will be
> much
easier to remove with the aid of a vise and a saw. (or taking it to a
>
shop that has an acetelene torch)
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 08:11:10 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gutting out cats
xwing wrote:
> snip
>
>
MAYBE everybody else's cats but mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
>
some people's are only PARTLY plugged up, and they are wandering around
>
WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as fast as some of those others on
the
> internet, 'cause the CATS can't be to blame because some dyno tests
said...
>
> Any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust
costs performance/spoolup.
snip
Jack... I have to agree with you
here...any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust is a
problem,
which would include the interior meltdown you have mentioned. But, the
stock system,
if operating properly, is properly tuned. If not, as in the
case of chunks of crap melting and
blocking it up, then performance has been
compromised and it will be clearly evident. Gutting
and a test pipe are
cheapest solution in this case and will in all likelihood give a seat of
the
pants performance boost when compared to blocked exhaust performance
which was occurring prior
to this. However, if the stock system is
operating as it should, gutting may find results that
are a lot less than
what were anticipated, including lower end bog. It also will create
the
Emissions Inspection problem noted earlier which can be a major hassle
for someone who did not
consider the ramifications of it. If the car is
being prepped for the track, then I am with you
a 100% on gutting the stock
system, adding downpipes, test pipe, and replacing it from the cats
back
(err,,,where the cats used to be). But if used consistently as a daily vehicle,
I'm not
certain this advise is really the best, as low end performance in
stop and go traffic has been
consistently reported as compromised, (whereas
top end has been reported as better) and
emissions testing will be a big
problem down the road. My advise: follow Jack's if you're into
major mods
and/or track use...follow mine if you've modest mods and using it for a daily
driver.
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 10:13:07 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Rotary noise from engine bay
Greetings
folks,
I'm hearing a rumbling
rotary noise coming from behind and below
the
engine. It's quite
periodic and sounds similar to a diesel
engine.
I don't hear this sound
while driving, but only when parked
and
idling.
Before I get this
thing checked at the dealer's tomorrow, I thought
I'd
ask you experts
first.
Thanks!
- -sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R
downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front,
SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.
- --
*******************************************************************************
Data:
"If I were not a professional, and an android, I would be insulted."
-
--Data, "The Icarus Factor", Stardate
42
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 09:51:26 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rotary noise from engine bay - Addendum
For all you
diagnosticians out there, when Sankar and I
were listening to this noise, it
was *not* the typical
lifter-tick noise (which was also present, but at a
low
level). This sound *seemed* to be deeper within the
engine,
more-or-less located below the intake plenum, maybe
more pronounced on the
passenger side, and sounded similar
to a large diesel engine. Certainly
not a "normal" noise.
Would a broken piston wrist pin make a noise like
this?
A bad cam journal?
Rich
-
-------------------------------------
Yoss wrote:
>
> Greetings
folks,
> I'm hearing a
rumbling rotary noise coming from behind and below
the
> engine. It's
quite periodic and sounds similar to a diesel
engine.
> I don't hear
this sound while driving, but only when parked
and
> idling.
>
> Before I get this thing
checked at the dealer's tomorrow, I thought
I'd
> ask you experts
first.
>
> Thanks!
> -sankar
> '97 VR4
> Mods:
K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and
R4S
> brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod,
Michelin Pilot
> XGT Z4 tires.
> --
>
*******************************************************************************
>
Data: "If I were not a professional, and an android, I would be
insulted."
> --Data, "The Icarus Factor", Stardate 42
>
*******************************************************************************
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
"If you dig it, do it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
-
Jim Croce (1943-1973)
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 13 May 1999 17:18:07 EDT
From: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Will
not Idle?
hey,
I know this has been discussed on this list, but
last night, i opened the
hood of my car, to do some foglight work, and the
negative end of the battery
came of, thus disconecting my battery, and now,
my computer won't let the car
idle, unless the airconditioner is on..
So, i've been told to let the car
idle for a while, and it will eventually
reset itself, which i have done,
before this time, to it.. Well.. I've been
letting my car idle for about an
hour and a half now, and it's still not
wanting to idle with the
airconditioner off, and ideas?
thanks.
jeff.
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #177
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