--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #175
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Tuesday, May 11
1999 Volume 01 : Number
175
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 04:06:31 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: success!
After a month of being up on stands, waiting for parts,
waiting for
tools, mangling the ball joint boots, etc. my clutch is finally
done!
Now I'm a seasoned veteran, and I'd like to give thanks to everyone
who
helped out. My only observations after ~30 miles on the new clutch
are
the pedal effort seems to be less than before, engagement
feels
different, and I can notice a slight clutch odor after parking the
car.
No slippage like before when I stomp on it in 4th or 5th. I assume
the
smell is not abnormal as the clutch gets broken in. I'm leaving
some
cardboard under it tonight, because I sure as hell want to know
if
anything is leaking!
Thanks,
Dave
'91 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 11:35:51 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Gtech Pro
Does anyone know where to get the Gtech Pro
cheap?
Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 10:15:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: success!
Dave,
How long was your car on jack
stands???? Were you
really able to do the clutch using only jack
stands???
Just curious since the last time I had to replace a
fog
lamp bulb in my brother's 92 VR-4 it sat on ramps
overnite. not a fun job
indeed.
===
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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For
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 10:50:35 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gtech Pro
- -----Original Message-----From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
|Does anyone know
where to get the Gtech Pro cheap?
|
|Thanks,
|Gavin
I think
someone mentioned recently that J.C. Whitney is now carrying
them at a
discount...
F
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 16:01:50 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Differences in Plug gap ??
Can someone explain a little on the
significance of gapping the
plugs at a smaller gap? What are the pros
and cons to changing
the factory setting (.044) to like .035.
I
just put in new NGK plugs and Magnecor wires. The plugs came
from
Mitsubishi gapped at around .044. I have a Borla cat back
exhaust and
a K&N FIPK. I gapped the plugs at .040. Am I doing
any harm
or good?
Thanks,
Jeff
- --
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK,
Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 14:21:36 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Differences in Plug gap ??
Jeff;
Smaller gaps are used
at higher boost pressure where there is a tendency for
the high boost to
literally blow the spark out before combustion can occur.
This is the
stumbling at high RPM's that many people complain about when
adding a boost
controller and turning up the boost. With the modifications
you have,
the stock plug gap is what you need.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>Can
someone explain a little on the significance of gapping the
>plugs at a
smaller gap? What are the pros and cons to changing
>the factory
setting (.044) to like .035.
> I just put in new NGK plugs and
Magnecor wires. The plugs came
>from Mitsubishi gapped at around
.044. I have a Borla cat back
>exhaust and a K&N FIPK. I
gapped the plugs at .040. Am I doing
>any harm or good?
>
Thanks,
> Jeff
>--
>
Jeff Schwartz
> 1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
> Borla, K&N FIPK,
Magnecors
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 23:36:29 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Differences in Plug gap ??
Jeff,
This highly depends on
what boost you are running on. If you plan to add a boost
controller I
recommend to decrease the gap down to 0.034" as this will prevent
misfires.
Usually one should expect a worser mileage with a smaller gap but I
never
noticed any difference due to this.
The cat-back and filter do not play
any rule here.
// Roger
> Can someone explain a little on the
significance of gapping the
> plugs at a smaller gap? What are the
pros and cons to changing
> the factory setting (.044) to like
.035.
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius
Street Race pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 23:53:05 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Center Guage Pod (oil gauges)
Hey Mike,
> Oil pressure
and engine temperature: If I purchase an aftermarket
> electrical
gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires?
99% no. This because the
sweep is different as well the electrical resistance.
> I think both
gauges are only ohm meters
They are more volt-meters as the current that
flows through the small wire in
the instrument cause a small magnetic field
that finally moves the dial.
Depending on the spiral wire and the magnetic
field the behaviour can be totally
different. I would measure the voltage on
the stock gauge itselfs to determine
what range it runs on. Then remove it
and apply the same small voltage to the
gauge with the help of an adjustable
power supply. Check the voltage at the
different levels shown by the dial and
watch for a linearity. With this you can
now determine what kind of gauge you
need.
> Do all gauges use standard values?
No, this depends
always on the type of sender they use.
> Oil Temp: Since this is
not something the ECU monitors, I would have to
> install a temp
sensor. Anyone ever done this? And if so, do you have
> to
drill into the block? I would prefer an electrical vs. mechanical
>
gauge. Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press.
gauge.
Well, you can use an oil-stick-temp sensor. You remember the dumb
rubber oil
temp sensor on the dyno ? There is a better, hard type available
that can be
attached easily. It was about DM 29.90 in Germany. This one works
good with the
most temp gauges that use the same type of thermocouple (I
guess k-type, but
have to recheck).
The Autometer gauge I do have came
with a sensor and some bolt adapters. I
expect to mount it instead of the oil
drain plug in the pan. But I'm not sure if
this is the best idea as the oil
temp may be lower as around the heads. This is
why I measure the heads
temperature as well.
All the best,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 19:39:31 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Center Guage Pod
Can you please tell us how you took the air bag
and everything apart. I
would really appreciate it.
Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chapleski [mailto:mike.chapleski@ibm.net]
Sent:
Sunday, May 09, 1999 5:36 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Center Guage
Pod
I removed my center gauge pod this
weekend.
Surprisingly, it only
took about two hours. I was able to do this
by removing the
passenger
airbag to get access to the mounting screws on
the back of
the pod. You
have to have a right angle ratcheting
phillips screw driver
through. If
you do not have a passenger
airbag, I don't think is
possible to get the
gauge pod out without
removing the dash. One thing that I
cannot
emphasize enough, if you
do remove the airbag, YOU MUST
DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY AND LET IT SIT FOR
AT LEAST A MINUTE BEFORE TOUCHING
THE AIRBAG
OR ITS' CONNECTIONS.
playing with the airbag is like trying
to
disassemble a loaded gun
which is pointed right at your
head. If that
thing goes off while
you are messing with the dash, death
is
very
possible.
So now that I have the pod
out, the question is what
type of gauges
do I put back in. I would
like to install a dual oil
pressure/temp
gauge, an engine temp gauge that
has actual numbers and a
real boost
gauge. The boost gauge is easy,
since I just need to
relocate the one
from the gauge pod. Now onto
the others:
Oil pressure and engine temperature: If I purchase
an
aftermarket
electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing
wires? I
think both
gauges are only ohm meters, so as long as they
are
calibrated the same I
should be OK. However, how do I determine
this without
buying the gauge
and testing it? Do all gauges use
standard values?
Oil Temp: Since this is not something the ECU
monitors, I
would have to
install a temp sensor. Anyone ever done
this? And if so,
do you have
to drill into the block? I would
prefer an electrical vs.
mechanical
gauge. Hopefully one that is
both an oil temp and press.
gauge.
Thanks,
Mike
C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 13:30:45 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: For Sale
Rock bottom price must sell.
$8500
Firm
For Sale '91 3000 GT VR-4
90k miles
Recent <3k miles
months:
Tires (p7000 ss 275/40 R 245/40 F)
Transfer Case (<1000 miles
brand new and warrantied)
Clutch (brand new and Warrantied)
Master/Slave
Cylinders (brand new and warrantied
See Pics at
http://www.glco.com/andrew/marksvr42.jpg
http://www.glco.com/andrew/marksvr41.jpg
-
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct
(OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 18:49:15 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: success!
it was off its wheels for a month due to various delays
getting parts and tools, going
out of town for a week at a stretch,
etc. Yeah, I did it with a 3-ton floor jack,
transmission jack rented
from the local rental place, and engine hoist borrowed from a
friend of a
friend. Getting the transmission out from under the car once I had
it
lowered out was a little tricky. I used the engine hoist to lift it
off the jack, then
got the jack out of the way, and put a couple dozen wooden
dowels underneath a piece of
plywood, and lowered the transmission onto the
plywood. Then I was able to slide it
out from under the car pretty
easily, with plenty of clearance. I call the wooden
dowel and plywood
trick the "ancient egyptian" technique.
Frank Chen
wrote:
> Dave,
> How long was your car on jack
stands???? Were you
> really able to do the clutch using only jack
stands???
> Just curious since the last time I had to replace
a
> fog lamp bulb in my brother's 92 VR-4 it sat on ramps
>
overnite. not a fun job indeed.
>
> ===
>
-Frank-
>
"JEEPers"
> EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
>
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 21:40:46 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Engine
Steam...Low oil pressure Pt. 2 What do I do next?
As I said.....I
did an oil flush.... and switched to mobil 1 10w30. that
same night
(two nights ago) I drove from Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville, Tn
(apprx.
137 miles) and I had steam which smelled like a hot engine or coolant
was
coming from the firewall area seemingly underneath the rear turbo and EGR
pip area. Since then ......I have inspected the turbine wheel in
the turbo
(while in the vehicle) and it was clean.....and seemed to be in
healthy
condition. I also checked all my vacuum lines for pinholes,
cuts etc... My
front turbo seems to have a LITTLE (not REAL bad)
carbon or oil build up on
the inner wall of the housing. I
replaced my fuel filter, and fuel pressure
regulator. The car
heated up......and the steam is back......not to the same
degree...but, none
the less, still there. My oil pressure is still low as
well
(obviously). My question is....what do I do next??? Another oil
flush?
Two more oil flushes? What do I do??
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 21:22:45 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Center Guage Pod
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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Mike,
brave man! Prepare your significant other for some
alone time, because
replacing the gauges will take you a while. While
you were able to remove
the center gauge pod assembly without removing the
dash, you will NOT be
able to install the new gauges without removing the
dash. This btw is not
as bad as it may seem. A repair handbook is
essential to perform this
though.
> So now that I have the pod out,
the question is what type of gauges
>do I put back in. I would like
to install a dual oil pressure/temp
>gauge, an engine temp gauge that has
actual numbers and a real boost
>gauge. The boost gauge is easy,
since I just need to relocate the one
>from the gauge pod.
If you
plan to mount your gauges behind the slanted stock lenses I recommend
that
you get 52mm gauges. I found that Autometer was the only brand that
had
all the gauges I wanted in this size. I have not seen a dual gauge
for
oil temp/pressure.
>Oil pressure and engine temperature:
If I purchase an aftermarket
>electrical gauge, can I just tap into the
existing wires? I think both
>gauges are only ohm meters, so as long
as they are calibrated the same I
>should be OK. However, how do I
determine this without buying the gauge
>and testing it? Do all
gauges use standard values?
The ECU does not use oil pressure, so you can
discard the stock sender and
mount your aftermarket sender unit in this
hole. As for the water temp
probe, under the coil pack there are two
senders for water temp. One is for
relaying information to the ECU and
the other one is for the stock gauge.
But there is also a third hole which is
capped from the factory. This you
can use for the water temp
probe.
>Oil Temp: Since this is not something the ECU monitors,
I would have to
>install a temp sensor. Anyone ever done this?
And if so, do you have
>to drill into the block? I would prefer an
electrical vs. mechanical
>gauge. Hopefully one that is both an oil
temp and press. gauge.
Find out where the manufacturer suggest
installing this probe. Depending on
the requirements for installing the
oil temp sender you may be able to
install this one in the same location by
using a T.
So how the heck do you install these gauges under the
dash? This is how I
went about it. The stock gauges are all
contained in one assembly. I
discarded this, but retained the lenses
(one piece) and the plate that holds
the lens to the stock gauge
assembly. Using a dremmel I carefully removed
the “half-moons” that
cover up the needle base from this mounting plate. I
then fabricated a
mounting bracket for the Autometer gauges out of
high-grade 3/8”
plywood. After cutting this to size, I painted the front of
it flat
black and mounted the stock lens assembly to the front of it. I
was
able to install my new assembly into the stock installation points using
the
stock installation brackets.
Attached is a picture of the
results. The gauges are Autometer 2 1/16"
Phantom series: 0-100 psi
electrical fuel pressure gauge, 0-100 psi
mechanical oil pressure gauge and
120-240F mechanical water temp gauge. I
choose to mount my boost gauge
on the A-pillar.
Good luck! E-mail if you have any further
questions.
Oskar,
'95 R/T TT
K&N FIPK, Magnecor wires, NGK
plugs, Apex-i Super AVC-R, RS*R springs,
Stillen cross-drilled rotors, metal
matrix pads, Razo pedals, Buschur short
shifter, NR white gauge faces,
Autometer boost, oil pressure, water temp,
fuel pressure gauges
-
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-
------=_NextPart_000_018B_01BE9B2B.3EFB2CE0--
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 10 May 1999 20:09:16 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine Steam...Low oil pressure Pt. 2 What do I do
next?
Hmmm... I assume you followed the flush instructions to the T and
that should have done
the trick. Shoulda! That shoulda included changing the
filter BTW.
The gauge may or may not be sending accurate information.
It's suspect until proven
otherwise. Was it always on the low side or did it
develop low readings only recently?
Of particular concern is the problem
with this steam. Have you determined the exit point
of it yet? That is, where
is it coming/venting from? It sounds like a cooling system
leak by the
description and smell you relate. That being the possible case, it
is
unlikely that it's related to the gauge, and that you have two separate
problems. That's
unlikely, but not impossible. Things could be worse though:
trouble usually comes in
threes! Your head gaskets are okay I
hope!
First find the source of the steam as your top priority, and
then immediately get your
oil pressure checked to insure that it isn't a
faulty gauge...or have both done at a
reputable place. Sometimes it's worth
biting the bullet if you have a reputable person
sort it out and it takes out
the anxiety. However, if approaching it yourself, and if
the gauge is
accurate, and if you performed the flush as directions indicate, then the
oil
pump is the next item to check as being suspect. Don't drive it hard until
you
determine what the oil problem is or isn't and don't drive at all if you
loose pressure
entirely. Sorry but that's about all I can offer...maybe
someone else has an observation
that I am missing which is self
evident....forest for the trees!
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 11 May 1999 10:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
Subject:
Team3S: AGIP oil in our Getrag
My mechanic wants to put AGIP oil in my
Getrag transmission as it is currently
having a new output shaft installed
(I saw it this morning. We got the new
shaft from MD Auto. The
synchros looked fine). This is the 2nd recommendation
that I got for AGIP.
The other place that recommended it was from an exotic
shop (Porsche). I
have Redline MT90 right now (which we saved in a bottle).
I wouldn't
mind trying AGIP. Is there any reason why I shouldn't?
- --
'93 R/T
Turbo
3SI Member 0269
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #175
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm