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(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #174
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Team3S
Digest Sunday, May 9
1999 Volume 01 :
Number
174
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 8 May 1999 11:27:51 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Service Manuals
Just another newbie reminder, if you have any of
the service manuals
already, you can purchase the manuals on CD-ROM and use
them instead of
mucking up your real paper manuals. Some of the manuals on
the CD are out of
print and quite hard to find. There are other advantages to
having them on
CD too!
The www site has been totally redone with a
separate section for 3/S owners
and DSM owners. The layout is virtually
identical, and MUCH easier to
navigate. Tell me what you all think!. For
those of you that do have the CD
manual's, please send some feedback my way
to see how I can improve it
(since it's a CD-R, I can implement changes very
easily).
If you need more info, check out the www site in my tag-line.
Also, any A/T
3/S member is welcome to join the other site I now am in charge
of, "Club
DSM A/T (automatic)".
About the A/T Vr-4's, I was told there
was no such thing, that would be
great if someone could find more info about
such a mythical car :). Are
there any Galant Vr4's with a/t? (91/92 US
editions only).
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
(Sorry if this sounded like an ad, I didn't think it did, and
since all this
service manual talk was going around, and I didn't get
mentioned, I thought
it would be relevant to say something. Thanks for
understanding!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 8 May 1999 18:34:02 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Engine
steam!!!!
Yesterday I did an oil flush, and switched to mobil one
synthetic oil.
My oil pressure has actually gotten a little worse off since
then, the
needle use to go half way up while the engine warmed up and
now it barely
makes it to the first big mark during startup. Another
thing......after
doing the flush and change, I drove my car from
Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville,
Tn (137 miles) and along the way I pulled over
and I had Steam coming out
from behind my firewall, and the engine seemed
extremely hot back there near
the rear turbo around the
firewall. My heat sheild that is connected to the
big black intake
pipe is warped. Any ideas on what may be going on?? Since
I did the flush and change....my results haven't seemed to be so
impressive................92 All Stock Vr-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 8 May 1999 18:41:11 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Vacuum problem
I was actually stupid enough to take my car
into another Mitsubishi
dealership to have general diagnostics
ran...... They came up with......my
car is running 13 inches of vacuum
and they say it is supposed to be
running around 18 inches of
vacuum. Also and EGR flow code is on, and the
temp. sensor is reading
10 degrees F. They said this could be causing my
turbo
problem......and it could be due to improper valve timing or a vacuum
leak. The problem is......They don't know how to check the valve
timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So my car is sitting and a "Mater Tech"
((supposively))
Is having to wait until monday to call Mitsubishi to
see what to do!!!!!!
Any ideas or opinions?? I'm going to
be looking for a vacuum leak.....but if
anyone has any ideas on where to
start or anything ....please let me know...
Any word on how to check
the valve timing?? Oh yeah....my timing belt
checked out in
time........and my ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
just
because the timing belt lines match up and show it's in time.....it
doesn't
mean the cams are in time........Mitsubishi has never shown me they
know how to work on their cars.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 May 1999 01:06:47 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Engine steam!!!!
> needle use to go half way up while the
engine warmed up and now it barely
> makes it to the first big mark during
startup.
Of course this depends on the viscosity of the oil you used.
This sounds like
0W-40 to me.
> from behind my firewall, and the
engine seemed extremely hot back there near
> the rear turbo around
the firewall. My heat sheild that is connected to the
> big black
intake pipe is warped.
What heat shield ? There is no heat shield
attached to any intake pipe ! The
only shields are around the front turbo and
one attached to the rear IC pipe
comming from the turbo. As it is black too I
think you are referring to this.
I usually tend to sound negative and
always see bad things behind such messages.
But here's my look into the the
things:
The engine flush (if done correctly) frees up some old/snake oil
deposits and
get everything (dirt, metal, coins <g>...) into the oil
filter. You did not tell
us but I think you changed the oil-filter too (at
least I hope so). A drawback
from an engine flush (if not done well) could be
that some of this deposit
cloggs up the oil lines to/from the turbos. A
result would be that this stuff in
the line is getting damn hot and cannot be
cooled as the fresh oil cannot get to
the turbo shaft to cool it. The dirt
finally will getting very hot together with
the turbo itselfs.... and burns
the turbo seals. This will cause a somewhat
darker steam (brunt oil) compared
to white/blue steam from boiled coolant. The
later is also possible as the
coolant that runs through the turbos will also get
very hot and due to the
broken seals will boil. As you say that the heat shield
behind the manifold
got bent I can only suppose that the rear turbo is finally
gone :(( I just
hope that the given signs will finally not confirm my
conclusion
!
Have you noticed the water temperature raised a little
too ?
Good luck,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 May 1999 01:21:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vacuum problem
> car is running 13 inches of
vacuum and they say it is supposed to be
> running around 18 inches
of vacuum. Also and EGR flow code is on, and the
> temp. sensor is
reading 10 degrees F.
The EGR code could be caused by the EGR valve that
got toasted by the excessive
heat that came from outside the path. If the
temperature readout is totally off
(damaged temp sensor in the MAS) for sure
the ECU selects a different fuel map
and this could explain the behaviour in
the past ! First let them totally check
the MAS and the connector/wires to
it. This can be done by removing the plug and
using a voltmeter and a
hairdryer. The procedure is fully explained in the
workshop manual. If this
problem is solved (hopefully only bad contacts) then go
to the next step in
getting your car back onto the road.
> They don't know how to check
the valve timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wrong dealer !
> Is having to
wait until monday to call Mitsubishi to see what to do!!!!!!
>
Any ideas or opinions?? I'm going to be looking for a vacuum
leak.
As I already mentioned, if the ECU is reading a totally off
temperature, it will
never selects the appropriate fuel table. Therefore the
vaccum could be
different too as the ECU controls the idle stepper motor. If
it is more open the
vacuum is closer to 0 than with a correct
behaviour.
> Any word on how to check the valve timing??
Oh yeah....my timing belt
> checked out in time........and my
ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
> just because the
timing belt lines match up and show it's in time.....it
> doesn't mean the
cams are in time........Mitsubishi has never shown me they
> know how to
work on their cars.
So he supposes then that the cam gears are mounted
off. AFAIK, this is not
possible due to the bolts, but I'm not 100%
sure.
Good luck Nr.2
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 8 May 1999 22:26:18 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RH drive shaft
> now that the clutch is done, I can't get the darn
thing back in!
> any advice here?
Line it up straight, compress the
joints by pushing on the outer end and
whack the end of the shaft with a
rubber mallet. Should pop right in... If
you don't have a mallet,
a slightly less sophisticated approach is to just
line it up and give the
whole assembly a good hard shove and it should pop
in after a few
tries.
- -Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 08 May 1999 23:56:17 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Vacuum problem
I think I would take the car (unless it's
under warranty and that's the
only Mitsu dealer around) to another
mechanic...someone that knows what
they're doing, if only for a second
opinion.
Bill Wagner
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> I
was actually stupid enough to take my car into another Mitsubishi
>
dealership to have general diagnostics ran...... They came up
with......my
> car is running 13 inches of vacuum and they say it is
supposed to be
> running around 18 inches of vacuum. Also and
EGR flow code is on, and the
> temp. sensor is reading 10 degrees F.
They said this could be causing my
> turbo problem......and it could
be due to improper valve timing or a vacuum
> leak. The problem
is......They don't know how to check the valve
>
timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So my car is sitting and a "Mater Tech"
((supposively))
> Is having to wait until monday to call Mitsubishi
to see what to do!!!!!!
> Any ideas or opinions?? I'm
going to be looking for a vacuum leak.....but if
> anyone has any ideas on
where to start or anything ....please let me know...
> Any word on how to
check the valve timing?? Oh yeah....my timing belt
> checked
out in time........and my ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
>
just because the timing belt lines match up and show it's in
time.....it
> doesn't mean the cams are in time........Mitsubishi has
never shown me they
> know how to work on their cars.
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 08 May 1999 21:05:27 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: cooling question
Group;
For those of you interested in the
prior scoop thread, I finally received
Todd's http's for you, so you can go
there and have a "look see" yourselves.
> Mirror sites at
> http://www.brightok.net/~tds
> http://www.qsl.net/n5mya
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 12:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: cooling
question
>
> >Hi Henri;
> >
> >As Chris noted,
Bozz makes (pricey) extraction scoops (heat extraction
> isn't a
bad
> >idea), and at least one member, Todd Shelton, has forward facing
ram type
> scoops where
> >these shock tower "blisters" bolt on.
Visit his homepage (don't have it
> handy)...are you
> >out here
Todd?
> >
> >Best
> >
>
>Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 9 May 1999 03:01:05 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: More rotors
Very correct again Jack,
The hub assembly
is built very strong on our cars.. Metal does fatigue
though. Put 30%
more braking force on a front hub, along with race tires..
You get way out of
the "design" spec of the front end. I agree that the
front end is
very strong, but this should not be overlooked in this
dangerous
situation.
The rotors are breaking in a clean ring (on the 94+
rotors) As you know the
hub and swept area of the rotor is separated by
a drilled area. The rotor
is separating there.
Power slots have
done this, along with KVR. I suspect defective castings on
the rotors,
however we will let the "experts" determine that.
> Brad
Check out
my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
I don't think flex of bearings/hub assy is large
contributor here.
I have never heard of such a thing being any significant
factor,
but that doesn't mean much. However--
If true, why does
no other brand of rotor do this?
Do the rotors come off as a solid ring, or
are they fractured
THROUGH one of those "slots" or grooves in the
rotors?
Jack
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 09 May 1999 23:36:04 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Center Guage Pod
I removed my center gauge pod
this weekend. Surprisingly, it only
took about two hours. I was able to
do this by removing the passenger
airbag to get access to the mounting screws
on the back of the pod. You
have to have a right angle ratcheting
phillips screw driver through. If
you do not have a passenger airbag, I
don't think is possible to get the
gauge pod out without removing the
dash. One thing that I cannot
emphasize enough, if you do remove the
airbag, YOU MUST DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY AND LET IT SIT FOR AT LEAST A MINUTE
BEFORE TOUCHING THE AIRBAG
OR ITS' CONNECTIONS. playing with the airbag
is like trying to
disassemble a loaded gun which is pointed right at
your head. If that
thing goes off while you are messing with the dash,
death is very
possible.
So now that I have the pod
out, the question is what type of gauges
do I put back in. I would like
to install a dual oil pressure/temp
gauge, an engine temp gauge that has
actual numbers and a real boost
gauge. The boost gauge is easy, since I
just need to relocate the one
from the gauge pod. Now onto the
others:
Oil pressure and engine temperature: If I purchase an
aftermarket
electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires? I
think both
gauges are only ohm meters, so as long as they are calibrated the
same I
should be OK. However, how do I determine this without buying
the gauge
and testing it? Do all gauges use standard values?
Oil
Temp: Since this is not something the ECU monitors, I would have
to
install a temp sensor. Anyone ever done this? And if so, do
you have
to drill into the block? I would prefer an electrical vs.
mechanical
gauge. Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press.
gauge.
Thanks,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #174
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm