--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #172
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Thursday, May 6 1999          Volume 01 : Number 172




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 23:53:03 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: clutch bearing

I had some feedback from another list member that my new clutch bearing
might not be defective after all.  On the new bearing, I can move the
inner bearing back and forth inside the race.  The first time I looked
at it, it was not centered and I thought the sleeve portion of the
clutch fork cage was pressed in crooked.  After futzing with it a
little, it went "pop" and the bearing moved more back into center in the
race.

My only concern is that the old bearing doesn't have this looseness
between the bearing and race.  But maybe it gets squashed down some
after its had some load on it.

I'm just really 'noid about putting this thing in the car and then
finding out its screwed up.

Dave



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:26:51 -0700
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries

hehehe, I wanted to do something SIMPLE to my Dodge TT....change the spark
plug vires.

There was a thunderstorm coming, but I was thinking....rain won't be there
before at least 15 minutes...and I do NOT need that to do something as
simple as to swap the plugs wires..

WRONG......aarrgggllll

Seems that the Mitsu engineers are MORE perverted than the NISSAN engineers
(they were ranked 1st so far...)

So...tell me...do I really have to remove the intake plenum to change the
wires....how long will it take...what should I do at the same time (spark
plugs....probably)..is there a "how-to" somewhere on the net...etc, etc..

See you

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:46:40 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries

Hi

Yes you have to remove the intake plenum to change plugs and/or wires. The job can be done in about 1 houer and isn't as hard as it first looks. The only real problem is when you remove the (EGR pipe in the back, close to firewall) there is a small gasket that you have to guard with your life. If you drop that one... place a towel under it before you start and don't forget to take the towel away after the istallation. I did !! and that resultet in a nice big engine fire !!! and I know that atleast one more on the list have had a fire due to the same misstake (no names)

Change plugs at the same time, this isn't a job you would like to do again in the near future.  If you are planning on using higher boost gap the plugs 0.30-0.35. And use the NGK plugs they are the best.

Kevin have some information about the removal on his page.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_gto_manual.html

Oh one more thing, if you have problem to get the Y-pipe back on the throttle body then use a hot air gun to warm the Y-pipe. This will make it very easy to get it in place.


Hope it helps

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu

- -----Original Message-----
From: Genesiscon Lehir <lehir@genesiscom.ch>

>So...tell me...do I really have to remove the intake plenum to change the
>wires....how long will it take...what should I do at the same time (spark
>plugs....probably)..is there a "how-to" somewhere on the net...etc, etc..
>
>See you
>
>Henri
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:44:46 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems

MitsuVR41:

Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
for me.

Good luck.

Scott

On Wed, 5 May 1999 21:25:15 EDT MitsuVR41@aol.com writes:
>When I drive 80 mph in fifth gear.............and try to lightly
>accelerate.....my  boost gauge gets to 0 and I hear and feel a pop up
>front
>and my  car will not accelerate.  I have to be in 3rd gear to drive at
>80mph
>without tearing my turbos up.....this is  crazy......
>Cruise control  is totally out of the question as well.  If I put it 
>in 5th
>and try to even cruise at 90mph  when I reach a hill  the boost tries
>to
>build and  I hear the popping again.
>When I try to accelerate from a stop......the car gets good boost
>until the 
>needle gets to
>about 7  psi ?((which takes all of not even one second of course))  on
>the
>stock  guage and then  the  turbos start  cutting  out and I lose
>horsepower
>and the car stops accelerating......and my exhaust gets reall choppy
>basically....any accleleration  in my car has  to be  done with the
>RPM's
>above 4000!!!! or not done at all!!!!
>any ideas????????????
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:58:14 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch bearing

David:

Being a novice, I can only offer experience.  I had my clutch replaced
last June.  They replaced a seized TOB maybe two months later, indicating
the were made from a different material.  The second time they also lubed
the shaft.  I'm still not convinced the part is where it needs to be
versus "feel" from the previous one.  I question cutting of corners to
save $.

Regards,

SJ

On Wed, 05 May 1999 23:53:03 -0700 David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
writes:
>
>I had some feedback from another list member that my new clutch
>bearing
>might not be defective after all.  On the new bearing, I can move the
>inner bearing back and forth inside the race.  The first time I
>looked
>at it, it was not centered and I thought the sleeve portion of the
>clutch fork cage was pressed in crooked.  After futzing with it a
>little, it went "pop" and the bearing moved more back into center in
>the
>race.
>
>My only concern is that the old bearing doesn't have this looseness
>between the bearing and race.  But maybe it gets squashed down some
>after its had some load on it.
>
>I'm just really 'noid about putting this thing in the car and then
>finding out its screwed up.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:55:10 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

David and all:

Does not the new Nissan TT also use Getrag 6-speeds?  Won't they begin to
experience this problem too?

Regards,

SJ

On Wed, 05 May 1999 22:57:55 -0700 David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
writes:
>
>I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I
>think would be more persuasive than sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ...
>signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to inquiring
>with a couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the
>previous legal saber rattling on the 3000gt.com web board had went. 
>Answer: nowhere yet.
>
>My transmission is on the floor while I do the clutch, waiting for a
>replacement of a defective NEW release bearing which luckily I noticed
>before installing #@!$!  Anyway since its out of the car I noticed the
>wear on the rear output shaft spline, which is starting to show
>obvious and I'd say abnormal wear ridge patterns after only 35,000
>miles on the car.  Mine isn't gone yet, but I'd say the consistency of
>this one problem (shaft splines) demonstrates a design definciency in
>the transmission.  The synchros is an additional problem.   As I
>understand it, we'd have to prove that Mitsu knew about the problems
>and design deficiencies in the transmission and did nothing to correct
>it.  So those of you who, to your credit, have complained in writing
>and gotten the boilerplate "not our problem. pbbbbt!" letter back,
>keep that stuff around for possible future reference.
>
>email me privately so as not to crowd the list if you're pissed and
>you think you'd like to "join the class" if we go forward with this.
>
>Dave
>
>
>Terry Swift wrote:
>
>> Maybe if the "Originators" of both this list, 3si, and the 3000GT
>List got together and went before Mitsu (USA - Pierre Gagnon, CEO and
>Japan if necessary) to explain the problem from their overall
>perspective, then maybe we could get some action. As individuals, our
>wonderful Mitsu Corp folks, couldn't care less, as long as we keep
>opening our wallets to them.  Mitsu is in a world of hurt financially,
>along with Nissan, so maybe they would listen to a dollars and cents
>approach.  Of course nobody wants to keep shelling out money to
>rebuild a tranny, but if parts are more readily available, I think
>people would be willing to stay with the brand - but as long as they
>keep the upper hand and make us buy a whole unit - probably thinking
>greater dollars and cents on this one - the 3si community will
>continue to shrink.  I've got a car that's really worth about $12,500
>on the market, but with grinding synchros, my value drops a couple of
>grand.  Law of Economics says to ditch it !
>wh!
>> ile I can get what I can or continue to loose money hand over fist
>due to continued problems.
>> --
>>
>> On Wed, 05 May 1999 16:06:45   wce wrote:
>> >Kevin;
>> >
>> >The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a
>little different to
>> >do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics
>interspersed,  lack
>> >of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it
>difficult...but not
>> >impossible.
>> >
>> >Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a
>"one time only" order
>> >of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull
>by the horns and
>> >organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some
>serious investigative
>> >work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and
>aftermarket sources
>> >he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines.
>One, which Jack posted,
>> >was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of
>the two. Again, if
>> >we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a
>solution/new
>> >fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may
>be a good thing to
>> >have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake
>hands. How about making
>> >(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from
>this point on. That way,
>> >maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve
>train, etc, etc. With
>> >the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is
>endless...in one
>> >gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old
>place, endless
>> >beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or
>solve. Treat it as a
>> >classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
>> >upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next
>generation who are herein
>> >offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all
>(holiday city). Who'd
>> >want to miss it.
>> >
>> >Darc
>> >
>> >Kevin Schappell wrote:
>> >
>> >> I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help
>be a
>> >> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I
>think with
>> >> this many people on the list we could band together and make our
>own parts.
>> >>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop
>doing all
>> >> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of
>people
>> >> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the
>parts made
>> >> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be
>the main
>> >> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made
>of
>> >> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background
>or the
>> >> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
>> >>
>> >> Kevin Schappell
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>> >
>>
>> HotBot - Search smarter.
>> http://www.hotbot.com
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:04:01 -0400
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE97AA.91C69E20
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to send them.
Bryan
- ----------
From: Jim Berry[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:44 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

band together and make our own parts.
 
>

I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take to
a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts for
Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's feasible and
to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at least
some positive action would be made.

    Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry

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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:23:44 -0400
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE97AA.95929A40
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
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I talked to BRE about rebuilding my trans. prior to having Buschur =
racing perform it. What they talked to me about was a mod they would =
performed to it which would make it easier to shift, not rebuilding it. =
The mod would be the same as the dsm mod which enables you to speed =
shift. The problem was they had never done a mitsu getrag trans, didn't =
have parts to rebuild and needed a good trans to perform the mod., which =
btw cost $295 for dsm's. Any additional parts needed were extra. Their =
mod sounds interesting and if I had an extra trans I would try them, but =
I didn't want to wait, so I let Buschur rebuild it with synchro's from =
Jack. After 7k miles, I'm happy to report the car shifts great and I =
have no leaks.

Bryan

- ----------
From: Klusmanp@aol.com[SMTP:Klusmanp@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

In a message dated 99-05-05 13:56:37 EDT, you write:

snip

 The syncro's seem to be the main=20
 problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of=20
 brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the=20
 drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
  >>

I talked to a California company called BRE engines awhile back about=20
rebuilding trannys w/ bad synchros. They are a drag racing products =
company=20
that races everything from rail cars to street cars. Their cars hold =
several=20
national records (I think they sponsor a Civic, for example). They do a=20
rebuild UPGRADE for Talon/Eclipse/Laser transaxles that improves =
shifting=20
performance. An independent source confirmed that the upgrade is for =
real=20
after a test drive.

I called and talked to them about the difficulty in finding synchros for =
the=20
3000GT/Stealth and was told they have the capability for manufacturing=20
synchros out of solid brass if need be. I suggested that BRE might offer =

synchros if they got a chance to work on a tranny and take some =
measurements.=20
The guy I talked to seemed interested in the idea.

To get this ball rolling all we need to do is have someone take the =
plunge=20
and send in their bad tranny to BRE for a rebuild. I did, however, =
forget to=20
get a price for a rebuild (duuuuhhhh). First thing we need to do is =
contact=20
BRE and get an estimate on the rebuild cost and the price for individual =
and=20
partial/full sets of synchros.=20

=20

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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE97AA.95929A40--

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:23:09 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: 15G turbo specs

Hi

I wonder what makes a 15G a 15G.

Does anyone have the specs for a 15G turbo? How big is the inlet, outlet, shaft, trim level etc. All info I can get is great.

I also want to know the outside diameter of the inlet (from air filter) and outlet (to intercooler) of the turbo.

I ask this because I have found a company that performs 15g conversions for a very good price (in Sweden) but since the VR-4 are  so rare here I want to double check the specs so I don't get f...ed.

Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:47:06 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Is anyone going to the Ocean City Maryland event that is interested in
working on reproducing parts?  Maybe we can get together and try to work
out a game plan.  If anyone is going and can bring a syncro that would be
great.  I will be there early Saturday morning and I am not sure if I will
stay till Sunday.  E-mail me off of the list if you will be there and then
we can plan something.
I agree with David that forcing Mitsu to make the parts available would be
a better option.  No liability but would we get a stronger syncro?


Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: S J Cowan [SMTP:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 9:55 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>> >Kevin;
>> >
>> >The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a
>little different to
>> >do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics
>interspersed,  lack
>> >of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it
>difficult...but not
>> >impossible.
>> >
>> >Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a
>"one time only" order
>> >of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull
>by the horns and
>> >organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some
>serious investigative
>> >work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and
>aftermarket sources
>> >he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines.
>One, which Jack posted,
>> >was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of
>the two. Again, if
>> >we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a
>solution/new
>> >fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may
>be a good thing to
>> >have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake
>hands. How about making
>> >(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from
>this point on. That way,
>> >maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve
>train, etc, etc. With
>> >the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is
>endless...in one
>> >gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old
>place, endless
>> >beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or
>solve. Treat it as a
>> >classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
>> >upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next
>generation who are herein
>> >offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all
>(holiday city). Who'd
>> >want to miss it.
>> >
>> >Darc
>> >
 

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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:02:23 -0500
From: "Brad Younkman" <stealth@digitalexp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Maybe somebody could take a picture of the different parts and put it on the
3SI website so whoever has a contact on having these made can show them and
get a rough idea on how much they will cost to be made.

Brad #078
91 Dodge Stealth RT TT


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **


> I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to
send them.
> Bryan
> ----------
> From: Jim Berry[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:44 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>
> band together and make our own parts.
>
> >
>
> I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take
to
> a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts
for
> Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's
feasible and
> to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at
least
> some positive action would be made.
>
>     Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:08:10 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

- ----
From: David Margrave

>
>I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I think would be more persuasive
than >sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ... signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to
inquiring with a >couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the previous legal saber
rattling on the 3000gt.com >web board had went.  Answer: nowhere yet.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

We need to initiate more than one solution !! A class action lawsuit, if feasible
will take years to resolve. I for one will need parts in the next 6 months. My
second gear synchro is in its final stages of life.
Appearently Turboharry is working on something back east but I don't have
any solid information. I think their working on developing a 6 speed parts
supplier.
As for our European contingent I know there's a lot of racing fabrication going
on in Europe. Any chance of developing a supplier from that group.
Other items like bearings are probably easier, I doubt getrag manufactures
its own bearings. The bearings should be stamped with mfg. codes  which
might allow us to track down a supplier. For example my Yamaha V-Max
needed a front fork bearing --- Yamaha wanted $55 --- I got the same part
from a bearing supplier for $18

              Jim Berry

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:39:40 EDT
From: Htkclk@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question

<<  I can't see how it's possible to get 32MPG! >>

I just moved from CA to Florida, and I-40 in Arizona and New Mexico had 50
mph tailwinds.  Normally I get 16 mpg city and 20-22 highway.  With the
tailwind, though, I measured 29 mpg at 79 mph.  Remember, though, that many
stock odometers are about 3% optimistic (so it may have been "only" 28 mpg,
yet far more than I ever expected).  My wife's MR2 usually got 24 mpg best,
and on that same stretch passed 30 mpg.
Henry
'92 TT
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 20:54:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems

> Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
> much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
> for me.

Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?) noticed.

Usually, if your engine acts like this, boost is getting lost due to a leak
between the turbos and the throttle body. The popping you hear sounds like a
defect valve to me and I doubt that the turbos are the problem. Also the timing
could be off as this would cause the behaviour you described too but doesn't
explains the "pop" to me.

First, check all the hoses and pipes between the turbos, IC's and trottlebody.
Especially check the hoses running up to the y-pipe and look for cracks. Such a
crack would not cause a leak until boost exceeds an amount and then can open
pretty quick. This may cause the sound you hear. Also check the hose running
down to the by-pass valve and check the mounting of it too.

If you have a problem, please always add your mods or changes to the post as
this would make it easier to give you some advice :)

Hope this helps,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 14:55:36 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems

At 08:54 PM 5/6/99 +0200, you wrote:
>> Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
>> much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
>> for me.
>
>Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?)
noticed.

I am coming in late, but it sounds like it might be jumping time. Maybe a
worn timing belt? Maybe coolant leaked and damaged the belt. Just a thought.
>
Rich/old poop
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 15:31:57 -0500
From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems

Roger:

>Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?)
>noticed.

You may be right, but my car did make a "popping noise" under heavy
acceleration in 5th until I did the change.  Later I attributed it to be
a misfire.  <shrug>  Once I did the change, the car has never run better
and the world was a better place to pass on the highway.

Regards,

SJ
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 00:11:29 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems

> You may be right, but my car did make a "popping noise" under heavy
> acceleration in 5th until I did the change.  Later I attributed it to be
> a misfire.

Yes, this was under heavy load. Unfortunately, it's very hard to determine the
sound if not heard by myself. I agree with you on the wires and plugs to be
changed if they are old or do have a high milage. But it's an investment and for
some of us not easy to do by ourselfs. Anyway, if the tubing/hoses are ok the
wires plugs are the next step :)

Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 18:54:18 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: Raising compression in an NA

Instead of trying to use a supercharger or other forced-induction
system, How high can I raise the compression? Is there a formula that
can be used to get a compression ratio without valve problems. Is the
valve clearance listed in the repair manual? Thanks

Matt
#311
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:25:48 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries

Well, I am 21 and I have taken the intake plenum off of my vehicle several
times for multiple reasons.  I can tell you, the first time, there can be
alot to remember, a manual can be handy  just in case  you forget your
vaccuum  hose routings.  I think you can do it without  disconnecting any
vaccuum hoses (not sure though).  I have the manual with full vacuum hose
layout and mapping and a help section to assist you in removing the plenum if
you would be interested in having a copy.  As far as I remember,  you have 
to unbolt the     the throttle body, an intake pipe, the injector controller
up top, the egr pipes on the back, you can either unbolt the egr valve, or
disconnect the vacuum hoses to  it and  pull it out with the  plenum,  lets
see, you probably have to take your y pipe out and that's the bulk of  the
process.   ((A couple of tips)) the throttle  body has 4 bolts on the left,
and one bolt you might not be aware of on the backside near the bottum, 
*NOTE* when unbolting the throttle body, notice the nipple on the gasket and
remember it's position. And, to the best of my knowledge....when bolting the
throttle body back on, it is easiest to hand tighten the four main bolts not
too tight and make sure every thing lines up with the gasket holes, and it
makes it easier to install the rear bottum bolt mentioned above.  I have had
difficulty lining up  that paticular bolt after bolting the  four main bolts
too tight. GOOD LUCK  hope i helped :o)
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 21:03:29 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue

Darc,

I think we are seeing this because the oil's viscosity doesn't go up
until the oil (Castrol Syntec) gets _VERY_ hot.  Like I said, the oil
pressure will get up there if you are driving 70-80 with the air
conditioning on for a sustained period.

Regards,
Lynn

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Team;
>
> The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean out the ole system. My guess is
> it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps ......then go with Mobil 1
> 10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who here isn't)  I swore by
> Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will stay so,  unless something
> better comes along. Life is not static.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 02:40:27 EDT
From: SoCoDrnkr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries

Henri,
Are you ever in for a project!!!  Set aside an afternoon, yes the whole
afternoon, if this is the first time youhave swapped the pleg wires.  Go to
the Dodge dealership and get the intake plenum gasket, around $10, and remove
the plenum.  There is somewhere on the web that has the steps and the
diagrams for this.  Sorry i forgot where exactly it was.  It may be in the 3S
system, but not sure.  I know it deals with 3S though.  If your not up to
surfing the web goto the nearest Pepboys or the equivelant in your area (not
sure about Napa) and pick up the 1990 on Foreign or Domestic car manual by
Chiltons and they will give you the steps for just about everything, for the
3S.  That is around $22.  And pretty good but pretty big also.  I found that
by accident.  I am going to buy it because the service manual through Dodge
is around $40 or so.  But that is the only Servicing guide that i have foound
so far.  I think the average time to do this job on the first time is 2-3 hrs.
good Luck
\
Dan
91 ES
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End of Team3S Digest V1 #172
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