--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #170
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Tuesday, May
4 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
170
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 11:13:19 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dragstrip Outing
Mikael Åkesson wrote:
> >1994 Mitsu
VR4 with K&N, bleeder valve, gutted maincat, VPC/GCC, 720cc injectors
(I had them laying around :)
> >12.386 @ 108.19mph...best mph
109.50. Full interior except spare and jack.
Geez.
>
> It would be interesting to know how much the 720 injectors
did. Do you have any idea about what dutycycle they where on during WOT? I guess
that they where far away from maxing out.
Nope no idea.
> I
would also like to know more about the GCC, is it an ignition controller or is
it just an aoption to the VPC?
It is fuel adjustment in several rpm
bands, like AFC. Hooks up to VPC with one connector.
(oops some old
messages have gone unanswered...)
Jack
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 03 May 1999 21:45:26 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
I had spoken to MD Auto in my quest to find
parts. He had everything, but the synchros and WOULD NOT SELL THEM, if he
had them. For those of us who need just the synchros, I guess the SEARCH
GOES ON - any more leads out there.
- --
On Mon, 3 May 1999
19:31:12 CEnder (Chris Chiasson) wrote:
>maybe this guy
could build us a better tranny that fit stock specs, but that
>wouldn't
break as much --- special metals.... titanium/carbon fiber...
etc
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ken
Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
The Browns <mabs@cts.com>
>Sent:
Monday, May 03, 1999 5:57 PM
>Subject: Team3S: ** Getrag Info
**
>
>
>> Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all.
>> >
>>
> I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth
AWD
>transmission.
>> > My warranty company did not want to
pay for a new transmission and
>transfer
>> > case.
Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a
San
>Diego
>> > shop called MD Auto. Their address is
6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
>> > California. Phone number
is (619)390-0450. I was told that they fix
>> > Stealth/VR-4
Getrags all the time.
>> >
>> > After hearing all the
problems with locating Getrag parts, is it
>possible
>> > that
we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the
correct
>parts?
>> > I'm quite skeptical that they would have
it when no one else (except
>Kormex)
>> > would have
it.
>> >
>> > If someone living in San Diego is
interested in confirming that this
>shop
>> > fixes 3S Getrags
all the time and has the right parts, or if someone
>knows
>>
> anything about this shop, please let me know.
>>
>> I
just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto. This is for real.
He
>> has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years. He said a
lot of Mitsu
>> & Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies
know about him and
>> use him.
>>
>>
Prices:
>> $2695 for rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case, I
didn't ask for
>> seperate prices
>> $500 core
charge
>> ~$200 round trip shipping to Atlantic
coast
>>
>> He uses new parts. Although he wouldn't
devulge his sources, he did say
>> they use new bearings (I forgot the
name but they're from France). They
>> use new synchro's although
they only replace the bad ones, they use
>> Mitsu seals, they also do
the 18 or 25 spline shafts. He said that you
>> cannot replace a
small 18 spline shaft with the larger 25 spline shaft
>> since the hole
in the case is a different size. I forgot to ask if the
>> shafts
they use are of better quality than the original. I also
didn't
>> ask if they just sell parts.
>>
>> Shipping
takes two boxes because of weight. He said tranny alone is
>>
about 120 lbs. They use UPS. They put the tranny in a plastic bag,
put
>> it in a box, then fill the box with foam. You are supposed
to send back
>> the cores in the same boxes.
>>
>> He
is faxing me some literature as I write this. Send me your
questions
>> and I'll phone him again soon.
>>
>>
Ken,
>>
>> P.S. Sam, it looks like your warranty company
is instructing your
>> mechanic to buy the rebuilt parts and he will
just do the removal &
>> re-installation.
>>
>>
--
>> How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is
lost!
>>
>> Ken Middaugh
>> General
Atomics
>> San Diego
>> (619) 455-4510
>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 3 May 1999 22:32:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
Subject:
Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
wrote:
>I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto. This is
for real. He
>has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.
He said a lot of Mitsu
>& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty
companies know about him and
>use him.
Hi Ken.
Wow.
They've been doing it for 4 years, yet no one from our group has known
about
them? I sure hope this is for real.
>since the hole in the
case is a different size. I forgot to ask if the
>shafts they use
are of better quality than the original. I also didn't
>ask if they
just sell parts.
Well, I am interested in finding out whether or not
those shafts are factory
parts or after-market. If they're
after-market, I too would like to know if
they are better quality than the
factory. Of course, the shop would claim
that they are. But how
can we really find out? I really hate to be a
guinea
pig.
>He is faxing me some literature as I write
this. Send me your questions
>and I'll phone him again
soon.
I think it would help a lot of us if we could get a scan of the
literature
onto the 3si website.
>P.S. Sam, it looks like
your warranty company is instructing your
>mechanic to buy the rebuilt
parts and he will just do the removal
&
>re-installation.
Actually, my mechanic told me that he only
got approval to purchase the
shaft and sleeve, not for the entire
transmission/transfer case. At this
time, he hasn't opened up the
transmission yet so we do not know if we'll
need new synchros as well.
He has already sent money to MD Auto for the
parts.
Thanks for
looking into this Ken. Let us know what else you
find.
Sincerely,
Sam.
- --
Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 10:22:23 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: New
Virus
Guys, this was fowarded to me. I have very little computer
knowledge so I
hope this is worthwhile information and 4 real.
Arty 91
VR-4
PASS THIS ON TO ANYONE YOU HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR. IT IS REAL
AND
>NOT A JOKE:
>
>If you receive an email titled "It Takes
Guts to Say 'Jesus' DO NOT
>OPEN IT. It will erase everything
on your hard drive. This
>information was announced yesterday morning from
IBM; AOL states that
>this is a very dangerous virus, much worse than
"Melissa", and that
>there is NO remedy for it at this
time.
>
>Some very sick individual has succeeded in using the
re-format
>function from Norton Utilities causing it to completely erase
all
>documents on the hard drive. It has been designed to work
with
>Netscape Navigator and Microsoft Internet Explorer. It
destroys
>MacIntosh and IBM compatible computers.
>
>This is a
new, very malicious virus and not many people know about
>it. Pass this
warning along to EVERYONE in your address book and
>please share it with
all your online friends ASAP so that this threat
>may be
stopped.
>
>Please practice cautionary measures and tell anyone that
may have
>access to your computer.
>
>Forward this warning to
everyone that might access the internet.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 11:05:35 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
New Virus
Arty,
This a hoax that has resurfaced. I don't think
this kind of thing is
allowed on the list even if it were real. Here is
a website to check
out these kinds of things on:
http://snopes.simplenet.com/spoons/spoons.htm#spoons
Regards,
Lynn
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 08:15:21 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Virus
Thanks for the update, Lynn; you are correct on both
counts-- it IS
an old hoax, and
IT IS NOT ALLOWED (nor are
corrections, either). From the
rules:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
05.
Urban Legend Stories and Virus Warnings. Do not post these
to
the
list. These are stories that have been floating around for
years,
and
we're all sick of hearing about them. If you have a Virus
Warning
you
feel is legitimate, send it to the admin and ask for it to
be
reviewed.
If the administrator feels a warning is appropriate, WE will
issue
the
warning. Anyone who posts a virus warning to the list will
be
banned
permanently without
warning.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Do
not EVER send these (or comments about them) to the
list!
Thanks,
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
- -----Original
Message-----From: William Lynn Larsen
<wlarsen@ibm.net>
|Arty,
|
|This
a hoax that has resurfaced. I don't think this kind of thing
is
|allowed
on the list even if it were real. Here is a website to
check
|out
these kinds of things
on:
|
|http://snopes.simplenet.com/spoons/spoons.htm#spoons
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 10:03:20 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: New Virus
It's bunk, it has been another net rumor floating
around. Probably by someone trying to
Anti-Spam a religious
organization. I have run across this danged thing 3
times
already. Just look at the wording, it was written in High School
level english. It
came from IBM? IBM is announcing virus
detection now? It's much more dangerous than
Melissa, but you don't
hear about it on the 6 O'clock news??? Yeah, It's pretty safe to
say this is
bunk. Not to mention that you would have to execute an application in
order
to run the virus, not just open the email. Opening an email is a
passive operation, you
have to actively open something contained in the
email. Although some things could be
done with Java, or Active X.
I will say of 99% ashurity this is BS. There is no such
thing as a
virus that cannot be removed... NO SUCH THING.. there is no software
problem
that FDISK cannot solve a little saying from tech
school.
Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
> Guys, this was fowarded to me. I have very little computer
knowledge so I
> hope this is worthwhile information and 4 real.
-
-snip-
- --
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global
Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext:
2961
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 09:21:41 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
** Getrag Info **
>
>Ken Middaugh
>
>>I just got
off the phone with Mike at MD Auto. This is for real.
He
>>has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years. He said a
lot of Mitsu
>>& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies
know about him and use
him.
>
I'm a little confused --- does he
do an exchange or does he rebuild your
trans.
Could get time consuming for
East coast folk !! If your syncros are shot
along
with other
problems then he just fixes the half of the job he can handle
???
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 19:14:13 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Drag racing
Hi
I will do some some drag racing during the summer
and I wonder what's the difference between bracket racing and "normal"
racing?
/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 13:25:20 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Syntec
-Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
I was just wondering if
there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil
is
better.
Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
I switched to Castrol Syntec a while
back..........and I have noticed my oil
pressure stays
lower,
especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two
above
the L!!!
When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes
above
it......even when boost is
applied.
Is this
normal?????????? Thanks guys
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 13:38:27 -0400
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Drag racing
Regular drag racing - The fastest
wins
Bracket Racing - You dial-in by telling the officials what you think
your
car will run. (by writing it on the side window of the car) Then
you are
handicapped if you are faster than the person you are racing or
given a
head start if you are slower. Then the person who gets to the
finish line
first without going under his or her dial in-time wins.
When you go under
your time it's called breaking out. This allows more
competitive racing
between a wide variety of cars. Theoretically if I
was a good enuff driver
I could beat a door slammer in a 72 Ford
Pinto.
Hope it helps,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Akesson [SMTP:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Tuesday, May
04, 1999 1:14 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Drag racing
Hi
I will do some some drag racing during the
summer and I wonder what's the
difference between bracket racing and
"normal" racing?
/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 10:47:08 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure
issue
MitsuVR41...
Questions: What weight Castrol are you using?
Ambient temperature?
Comments...when we did a survey some months ago, of
those using synthetic
(92% of those who responded), the majority (~70%) are
using Mobil 1. I've
been using Castrol 5-50w for over two years and have been
satisfied with it.
However, something sounds odd about your oil pressure
indications (which is
why I asked about the weight). When I'm at idle, the
gauge reads just below
the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running
anything above 2K rpm,
it's nearly at the higher of the two large marks and
stays there, regardless
of throttle position.
I wish we had real
gauges (with psi markings), for all I know, the oil
pressure gauge is as
unreliable as the boost gauge. :-(
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal
mod)
- -----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
May 04, 1999 10:25 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
I was just wondering
if there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil
is
better.
Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
I switched to Castrol Syntec a while
back..........and I have noticed my oil
pressure stays
lower,
especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two
above
the L!!!
When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes
above
it......even when boost is
applied.
Is this
normal?????????? Thanks guys
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 11:55:23 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Drag racing
Bracket racing is based mostly on consistency since
you are placed in a class with people running similar times.
It's not a
competition for the fastest time, the fastest time with people who run the same
times? Am in confusing this too much?
Mikael Åkesson
wrote:
> Hi
>
> I will do some some drag racing during the
summer and I wonder what's the difference between bracket racing and "normal"
racing?
>
> /Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct
(OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 14:07:20 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag
racing
A Drag race = the fastest time wins.
A Bracket race = the one
closest to the time he says he will run wins.
Example 2 cars, car 1 says he
will run 12.5 he runs
12.4
car 2 says he will run 12.5 he runs 12.00
Car 1 wins. He is closer to his
selected time.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 5/4/99 10:23:08 AM
Pacific Daylight Time, vr4@bahnhof.se
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: Drag racing
Date: 5/4/99
10:23:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: vr4@bahnhof.se
(Mikael_Åkessonerve.com>)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Hi
I will do some some drag racing during the summer and I
wonder what's the
difference between bracket racing and "normal"
racing?
/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 15:29:29 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure
issue
MitsuVR41,
I have been using Syntec 5W-50 since I bought the
car and have noticed
exactly what you are talking about. However, get
out on the interstate
in the summer with the air on and you will see the
pressure keep rising
for about the first 15 miles or so and it will get (on
my gauge) within
1-2 lines of the top mark. The first winter I spent in
Raleigh, '96, was
exceptionally cold and I got so worried because my oil
pressure would
barely get above the low normal that I switched to Castrol
20-50, which
I use in everything else and I also noted a lot more valve
noise.
I am about to switch to Mobil 1 because the concensus seems to be
that
the valve noise is less with it. Also, about a month ago there was
a
URL given to very extensive oil filter study and it gave the Mobil 1
oil
filter very good marks. So, I figured I'd switch to the oil and
the
filter.
Regards,
Lynn
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> I
was just wondering if there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil
>
is better.
> Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
> I switched to Castrol
Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil
> pressure
stays
> lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a
mark or two
> above the L!!!
> When driving the needle stays at the
first BIG mark and never goes above
> it......even when boost is
applied.
Is this
> normal?????????? Thanks guys
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 16:25:25 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
I'm going to race for the first
time this Friday. From what I've been
reading here, I should be able to
get a higher octane fuel at the track? If
so, should I be able to
increase my boost while running a higher octane
gas?
Michael
K&N Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 16:20:52 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
>
However, something sounds odd about your oil pressure
> indications (which
is
> why I asked about the weight). When I'm at idle, the gauge
>
reads just below
> the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running
anything
> above 2K rpm,
> it's nearly at the higher of the two
large marks and stays
> there, regardless
> of throttle
position.
I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my gauge
being near the
bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two large
marks when
driving.
Michael
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 13:33:03 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
Michael...
All depends
on the track. There's two 1/4 strips here in the Portland
(Oregon) area,
neither one carries race gas.
However, there's two places in town that do
carry race gas. FYI, the
unleaded (104 octane) is $4.75/gallon, the leaded
(110 octane) is
$525/gallon. If you run your tank almost dry and put five
gallons (unleaded
only if you haven't removed all three cats), you should be
able to run the
boost up to 20 psi w/o risking damage to your engine.
However, if you still
have stock turbos, you won't hold that boost at higher
revs.
GOOD LUCK, let us know how the runs go!!!
BTW...I'd be
curious to know what others are paying for race gas, along with
octane and
your location.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Michael Dorsey [mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
I'm going to race for the first
time this Friday. From what I've been
reading here, I should be able to
get a higher octane fuel at the track? If
so, should I be able to
increase my boost while running a higher octane gas?
Michael
K&N
Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 14:36:25 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if
anyone elses does
Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92
mph
I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph
cruise control
Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of a
tank just from going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24
miles
Is this normal
When going very fast. Full throttle
continuously. I can burn a 1/8 tank in 5 or 6
miles So at 160 mph
I eat up fuel at 2 mpg? That is nuts anyone else with this problem
or
si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate
Only mod I have is a bleeder valve,
and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear. 38psi Front
and 32
Rear
- --
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 15:48:43 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
>
>BTW...I'd be
curious to know what others are paying for race gas, along with
>octane
and your location.
At Heartland Park, Topeka, we have three choices. The
cheapest is 102
octane at $4+ per gallon. The others were more
expensive.
Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 17:17:32 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Gas
mileage Question -Reply
All sounds normal to me.
Stop and go with
a 2 ton car requires plenty of power, which in turn
uses plenty of
gas.
Having the momentum already there and having minimal change in
engine
speed at 5th/6th gear at 92mph should yield very good MPG.
As
for 160, that's just a different ball game. The upper end of
the
engines power...although 2mpg seems to be a lot of gas, it
doesn't
surprise me.
Gavin
>>> Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com> 05/04/99 04:36pm
>>>
Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if anyone elses
does
Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92 mph
I got 32 mpg
going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph
cruise
control
Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of
a tank just from
going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24
miles
Is this normal
When going very fast. Full throttle
continuously. I can burn a 1/8 tank in
5 or 6
miles So at 160
mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg? That is nuts anyone else
with this
problem
or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate
Only mod I have is a
bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.
38psi Front
and 32
Rear
- --
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 14:24:17 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Andrew...
I think either your
speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I
keep pretty careful
track of my mileage. Before I changed my turbos and
injectors I consistently
got between 12 and 14 mpg in the city (with a fair
amount of WOT). On the
highway, with speeds of up to 140+ mph, I get around
17 or 18 mpg. On a trip
to the Bay area this January, I actually used the
cruise control at 85 mph in
sixth gear and checked my mileage after a half
tank of gas. It was 22 mpg, an
all time high. I doubt that it's possible to
get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under
any speed, on flat terrain.
Check for loose mechanical connections,
and/or check your math.
BTW...could you give me the complete size of the
tires (275/xx-18 or
275/xx-17) on your VR4? What brand? Any clearance
problems?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/blown turbo seal mod)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew
Brilliant [mailto:andrewb@infowest.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:36 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if
anyone elses does
Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92
mph
I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph
cruise
control
Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of
a tank just from
going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24
miles
Is this normal
When going very fast. Full throttle
continuously. I can burn a 1/8 tank in
5 or 6
miles So at 160
mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg? That is nuts anyone else with
this
problem
or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate
Only mod I have is a
bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.
38psi Front
and 32
Rear
- --
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 16:25:14 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
>When going very fast. Full
throttle continuously. I can burn a 1/8 tank
in 5 or
6
>miles So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg? That is nuts
anyone else
with this problem
>or si the Fuel gauge kind of
inacurate
On an open track, I burn a quarter tank in a 20 minute
session.
It goes down so fast, I almost ran out of gas once.
I guess we
run about a 75-80 mph average, because a 2.25 mile lap takes
about 1:50 or
so.
Let's see, at 80 mph that's 0.75 min./mile for 20 min., or about 27
miles.
A quarter tank is -- what? 4 gallons?
So that's about 6.75 mpg.
Glad I just use 92 octane and not racing gas.
Rich/old
poop/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 14:33:32 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gas mileage Question
On May 04, Chris Winkley said:
>
Andrew...
>
> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or
your calculations. I
Hm...
If he spent 1/8 tank to traverse 6 miles doing 160mph, that's
2.475
gallons to drive for
0.0375hr, or 66gph (isn't this the spec. for
the
stock fuel pump?)
>
I doubt that it's possible to get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any speed,
on
> flat terrain.
I think it was Bob Fontana who stated that he
noticed much better mileage
after installing the VPC (upper 20s, but I don't
think it was 32mgp tho.)
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Troi:
"It's not like Data to be secretive."
Wesley: "And cautious. He's got
that lab locked every minute."
LaForge: "Now how do you know that?"
-
--Troi, Wesley, and LaForge, "The Offspring", Stardate
43
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 15:50:16 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas mileage Question
As for the calculations I can tell you
exactly what happend..
Gas was about 94cents/gallon back then but listen
to what happend
$10 in the tank. So roughly 10 gallons, car had the
gas light on
Traveled 312 Miles to donw town SLC (the olive garden) from
St. George BLVD, a St.
George in rougghly 3.75 hours. After the
$10 fillup it rad a little under 3/4 tank
full Maybe the pump was messed,
because I _never_ duplicated this. My G/F was driving,
and she never
did any WOT 3rd gear passes like I always do. Has anyone ever heard of
a
gas pump being inacurate before?
10 galllons 315 miles, maybe the
speedo is WAY off who knows
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
Andrew...
>
> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or
your calculations. I
> keep pretty careful track of my mileage. Before I
changed my turbos and
- -snip-
- --
Andrew M.
Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB:
GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 May 1999 00:28:35 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure
issue
Interestingly, here in Europe we do have Castrol Synthetic (RS, TT,
TXT) and the
new Syntec (in Switz. since this year) I run 5W40 in Winter and
10W60 in Summer
and have consistent readings. Idle is just a little under the
normal mark and on
very high speeds the needle stays below the upper larger
mark. The only
"problem" (more a Gremlin) is that with an oil level below the
full mark the
oil-warning light comes up when I accellerate hard or on high
speeds up a hill.
Lifting the throttle cures this. We replaced the oil level
switch (I did not
found in the US manual !) but didn't help
yet.
> I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my gauge
being near the
> bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two
large marks when
> driving.
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 May 1999 00:31:36 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
> i thought the rotor discs are sort
of "hollow" from the inside to help air
> carry heat away?
Yes,
correct. Some rotors have different internal grooving design to draw air
or
out.
> couldn't the inside surfaces of the rotor be painted? (in
the middle of the
> actual disc, between the braking surfaces. At least
that's what i thought it
> looked like last time i had my wheel off. I
could be wrong. please let me
> know if i am.
You can but I see no
adantage in doing this.
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 18:07:42 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes
and Heat question
> > couldn't the inside surfaces of the rotor be
painted? (in the
>
> You can but I see no adantage in doing
this.
Well basically i was saying although negligeable, black radiates
more heat
then any other color...
and hey, a good high heat paint should
prevent rust too :)
how hot can brakes get during conditions it would
glow red?
Omar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 18:14:49 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brakes and Heat question
> Well basically i was saying although
negligeable, black radiates more
> heat then any other color... and hey, a
good high heat paint
> should prevent rust too :)
Doesn't black
absorb the most heat? If you set a black piece of plastic in
the sun
next to a white piece, doesn't the black piece become hotter than
the white
piece?
I'd suspect that any paint on the rotor or caliper would help hold
the heat
in, since paint would transfer heat more slowly than metal.
-
-Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 16:42:45 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure
issue
Team;
The low pressure "may" be eleviated with a flush
to clean out the ole system. My guess is
it needs the gunk and cooked oil
cleaned out from high temps ......then go with Mobil 1
10-30. Back in my
muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who here isn't) I swore
by
Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will stay so,
unless something
better comes along. Life is not
static.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 May 1999 07:05:49 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost with higher octane fuel
Michael Dorsey wrote:
>
race for the first time I should get higher octane fuel at track?
If
> should I increase boost while higher octane?
>
Michael K&N Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC
yes, run tank near
empty when arriving at track; then put in maybe 4 gallons of highest
unleaded
gas the track sells (100-104). Then turn the boost up as HIGH as you
can
without hitting fuelcut!! Max it out!
Jack T.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 20:06:14 EDT
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Valve
noise question
I noticed some valve noise on my '91 VR4 about 3 or 4
weeks ago. I've decided
to try a flush treatment next oil
change.
Full set of valve lifters was replaced about 2 years ago by
previous owner.
My first oil change since buying the car was with Mobil 1
syn. last Oct.
Previous owner used non-syn.
2nd oil change was about
2 months ago - Mobil 1 syn.
1)Is there any kind of treatment I can do to
the car now before next oil
change?
2)Any advantage to doing the
flush treatment/oil change now, as opposed to
waiting untill the next oil
change (about 4-5 mo. away)?
3)If I let the valves continue to clatter,
am I doing any kind of permanent
damage I might avoid by doing the flush
now?
Thanks for the help!
Paul Klusman
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 18:04:56 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Whatever you've done to your car, pass it
on. I've never gotten over 25-27 mpg on the highway - of course that's doing
almost a constant 80 or better with cruise and lots of flat spaces. In
city, maybe 15 mpg, if I'm lucky.
- --
On Tue, 04 May 1999
15:50:16 Andrew Brilliant wrote:
>As for the calculations I
can tell you exactly what happend..
>
>Gas was about 94cents/gallon
back then but listen to what happend
>
>$10 in the tank. So
roughly 10 gallons, car had the gas light on
>
>Traveled 312 Miles
to donw town SLC (the olive garden) from St. George BLVD, a St.
>George in
rougghly 3.75 hours. After the $10 fillup it rad a little under 3/4
tank
>full Maybe the pump was messed, because I _never_ duplicated
this. My G/F was driving,
>and she never did any WOT 3rd gear passes
like I always do. Has anyone ever heard of a
>gas pump being
inacurate before?
>
>10 galllons 315 miles, maybe the speedo is WAY
off who knows
>
>Chris Winkley wrote:
>
>>
Andrew...
>>
>> I think either your speedo is wildly
inaccurate, or your calculations. I
>> keep pretty careful track of my
mileage. Before I changed my turbos
and
>
>-snip-
>
>--
>Andrew M.
Brilliant
>Webmaster
>IS Department
>Global Web Direct (OTC
BB: GLCO)
>801-852-4961
>1-800-500-1847 ext:
2961
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 18:13:14 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
I just
changed over to Castrol Synthetic 5-50 (using a K&N filter) and my oil
pressure increased. most of the time at idle it reads like 1/4 on the
gauge (halfway between lowest and mid lines) and during cruising, it normally
reads 1-2 lines above the middle. Before, when I was using the SynBlend
with a Fram, my pressure at idle would sometimes drop to the 2nd from the bottom
(got a little nervous at that point) and when cruising it would sit a 1 line
above mid-level.
- --
On Tue, 4 May 1999 16:20:52
Michael Dorsey wrote:
>
>> However, something sounds odd about
your oil pressure
>> indications (which is
>> why I asked
about the weight). When I'm at idle, the gauge
>> reads just
below
>> the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running
anything
>> above 2K rpm,
>> it's nearly at the higher of the
two large marks and stays
>> there, regardless
>> of throttle
position.
>
>I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my
gauge being near the
>bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two
large marks when
>driving.
>
>Michael
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 18:21:57 -0700
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
I've gotten 28mpg on the flats between
Bakersfield, CA and Las Vegas, NV...
- -Bill/'95 VR-4 Spyder
>
> I doubt that it's possible to get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any
speed,
on
> > flat terrain.
>
> I think it was Bob
Fontana who stated that he noticed much better mileage
> after installing
the VPC (upper 20s, but I don't think it was 32mgp tho.)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 18:22:33 -0700
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Jim,
That's why they charge a 'core
charge.' He'll ship you one as soon as he gets the payment
(VISA/Cash/Purchase Order). You get the tranny, put it in, take the old
used piece of #$@! out, and return it to him. He should then refund your
core charge. If you decide you want to keep it as a paperweight or
whatever, he keeps the core charge. Don't know where he gets his synchros
- closely guarded secret I imagine, cause if he tells, the MitsuStapo will be
there and cut him off at the knees. We've seen that happen whenever
somebody has publicly announced a pipeline. GUESS WHO'S WATCHING??????
- --
On Tue, 4 May 1999 09:21:41 Jim Berry
wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Ken
Middaugh
>>
>>>I just got off the phone with Mike at MD
Auto. This is for real. He
>>>has been rebuilding
Getrags for *** 4 *** years. He said a lot of Mitsu
>>>&
Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and
use
>him.
>>
>
>I'm a little confused --- does he do
an exchange or does he rebuild your
>trans.
>Could get time
consuming for East coast folk !! If your syncros are
shot
>along
>with other problems then he just fixes the half of the
job he can handle
???
>
>
Jim Berry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 18:56:42 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve noise question
> 1)Is there any kind of treatment I can
do to the car now before next oil
> change?
>
> 2)Any
advantage to doing the flush treatment/oil change now, as opposed to
>
waiting untill the next oil change (about 4-5 mo. away)?
>
> 3)If I
let the valves continue to clatter, am I doing any kind of permanent
>
damage I might avoid by doing the flush now?
>
Hey Paul;
Oil
and filters are cheap investments, even when synthetic. Changing frequently is
one
of the best things you can do, and a flush will take the speculation out
of the equation
if you do it now rather than
wait.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 21:06:05 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brakes and Heat question
Black both absorbs _and_ radiates heat better
than all lighter colors.
Dennis
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Matt Jannusch <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, May 04, 1999 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes and Heat
question
[snip]
> Doesn't black absorb the most heat? If you set
a black piece of plastic
in
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 21:49:51 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost with higher octane fuel
>If you run your tank almost dry and put
five gallons (unleaded
>only if you haven't removed all three
cats),
Won't this ruin the O2 sensors?
>BTW...I'd be curious to
know what others are paying for race gas, along
with
>octane and your
location.
>Looking forward...Chris
>
I get 100 octane
unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
sell 110 leaded and I
am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well. 93
octane pump gas runs
about $1.20.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 20:03:20 -0700
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
BASTARDS...
We're paying
$1.82 for premium in Vegas, if you shop around,
otherwise
$1.91...ARGH!
(I know, I know, you live in a friggin'
desert, what do you expect?)
- -Bill
> I get 100 octane
unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
> sell 110 leaded
and I am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well. 93
> octane pump
gas runs about $1.20.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 22:12:31 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
>I wish we
had real gauges (with psi markings), for all I know, the oil
>pressure
gauge is as unreliable as the boost gauge.
:-(
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
I swapped out my
center gauges for some Autometer gauges. I replaced both
the oil and
water temp gauges with mechanical gauges. I also installed
an
electrical fuel pressure gauge in the place vacated by the boost
gauge.
I'm running Mobil-1 10W30 with ambient temperature ranging from
40-70.
Initially upon cold startup I see 80psi. This slowly drops as
the engine
warms up . After running the car for a while I will get
around 10-15 psi at
idle. While driving, the oil pressure varies
between 30-65 psi depending on
RPM. My stock gauge barely moved at
all. It was always pegged just above
center, except at idle when it
would drop two notches. I suspect that it is
purposely tuned this way as not
to worry the average driver.
I plan on running some Gunk motor flush thru
the engine soon. It will be
interesting to see if this makes a
difference on the readings. I also plan
on running Mobil-1 15W50 this
summer. I suspect I will get slightly higher
readings with this
viscosity. My car is a '95 R/T TT with just over 30k
miles. It
has had a pretty easy life so far.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 23:29:59 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Gas mileage Question
I am experiencing similar problems.
When I drive
from Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville, Tn and to Birmingham, AL I
general
drive from 75-to-85 mph average and sometimes the first quarter tank
lasts for 150 miles and sometimes it lasts only 70 to 80 miles.
usually the
last 3 quarter tank increments go down each step
too. 1st 150 miles
2cnd
80miles 3rd 60miles and then about 45 miles.
I have also
noticed my car runs best at 90 to 100 miles per hour. It runs
smoothest,
reacts and turns the best. And seems to get better gas mileage??
maybee it just seems that way. I think the guage is
inacurate......my car
has been close to empty before and the light would go
on and go off
constantly.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 23:36:16 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> I
switched to Castrol Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil
pressure stays lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a
mark or two above the L!!!
> When driving the needle stays at the first
BIG mark and never goes above it......even when boost is
applied.
Is this
> normal?????????? Thanks guys
I used Syntec before I
went to Mobil 1. The ONLY reason I ever went with
Syntec was because it was
on sale. I did notice the oil pressure with
the Syntec was lower than with
the Mobil 1, but NOT as low as you're
reporting. I haven't really had any
problems with either, but since the
Mobil 1 indicates a higher pressure
(probably indicating it's probably a
bit denser when hot) I'll probably stick
with it.
I don't know how good the oil pressure guage really is, or
how
accurately it scales with changes in oil pressure. With Mobil 1, and
the
car warmed up, my guage reads slightly below the first large mark
at
idle and will run up between the upper 1/3rd of the guage
between
3k-4kRPM.
Perhaps your sending unit or oil pump are
bad.
Good Luck,
Bill Wagner
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 4 May 1999 23:40:26 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Valve
ticking here as well!!!!!
I also recently have had a valve start
ticking....and it has gotten a little
louder than it was......but not loud
enough to be a rod. To do the oil
flush....is it safe to trust a local
10 min oil change ......or should I dig
into the pockets and (heaven forbid)
trust Mitsubishi to do it???? I'm not
into taking my car into
Mitsubishi unless I HAVE to. Seems to me my car is
always
delivered with more problems than it had before I took it in when I
take it
to Mitsubishi....In fact.......Mitsubishi told me my car was
completely
fixed and I threw a rod the next day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 21:53:12 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gas mileage Question
This is teh EXACT SAME BHAVIOR
can't
be coincidence
I do think though that as far as the 90 mph handling
goes. I used to have an Eclipse,
this is a GT car, it is designed to
handle smooth at 90 mph I think it's a Pain in the
city... stiff clutch,
rough ride.. But at 100 mph smooth as ice
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> I am
experiencing similar problems.
> When I drive from Chattanooga, Tn to
Nashville, Tn and to Birmingham, AL I
> general drive from 75-to-85
mph average and sometimes the first quarter tank
> lasts for 150
miles and sometimes it lasts only 70 to 80 miles. usually the
> last
3 quarter tank increments go down each step too.
1st 150 miles
> 2cnd 80miles 3rd 60miles and then about 45
miles.
> I have also noticed my car runs best at 90 to 100
miles per hour. It runs
> smoothest, reacts and turns the best. And
seems to get better gas mileage??
> maybee it just seems that way. I
think the guage is inacurate......my car
> has been close to empty
before and the light would go on and go off
> constantly.
> For
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-
--
Andrew Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Connections,
Inc.
OTC BB: GLCO
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 05 May 1999 00:02:30 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Valve noise question
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> I
noticed some valve noise on my '91 VR4 about 3 or 4 weeks ago. I've
decided
> to try a flush treatment next oil change.
What kind of
noise?? Is it a slight clicking or does it sound like
someone is lightly
tapping the side of the top end with a hammer? Does
the noise ever go away??
Are you sure the noise is coming from the valve
area and not the underside of
the engine??
I'm curious because I suspect that one of my lifters is
failing (back
cylinder bank, of course!!). I get the noise that sounds as if
someone
is tapping the top end lightly with a hammer, but it's
eratic...often
not present at all. Following the procedures in the
manual, I slowly
rev the car from idle to 3000rpm and back 3 times
(about 30 sec. for
each). In most cases, my clacking will
disapear...particularly at higher
revs when the oil pressure goes up.
Sometimes it will be clacking away
and then disappear all on it's
own.
It's good to have a list back!
Thanks,
Bill
Wagner
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 04 May 1999 23:39:35 -0500
From: Gabe Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
Here in the Kansas City Area we
have one station with 107 Octane and it runs around
3.50 a gallon. At
our Local track it runs around .75 cents higher. Great stuff,
just
drains the wallet!
Gabe Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
92 GMC
Typhoon
Oskar wrote:
>
>
> I get 100 octane
unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
> sell 110 leaded
and I am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well. 93
> octane pump
gas runs about $1.20.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
>
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------------------------------
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