--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #168
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest           Sunday, May 2 1999           Volume 01 : Number 168




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 17:43:41 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: Pistons

Barry,
Here is what they say...
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com



>Hi Matt here we go. ROSS  custom 3000GT pistons. These pistons were
>made using the latest advances in piston technology. This is NOT a 3000
>stock piston casting or copy, it is a proprietary casting that looks oval
>when viewed. The ring pack has been moved down to keep the rings away from
>the combustion chamber,since the rings have been moved down toward the pin,
>oil support rails are included. 4 anti detonation grooves have been cut
into
>the top of the piston to help quell detonation. The piston rides on a
>slipper skirt forging for minimum contact area on the cylinder walls to
>decrease friction, and the forging was made in such a way to make the
piston
>as light as possible without having to use the milling machine to carve out
>the excess weight. The material 2618T-61, and machining they use also allow
>you to run a little tighter piston to wall clearance, so you don't sound
>like a diesel truck when you are running. The piston pins are $$ costly
>0.866 Super Duty 4340 taper wall pins that are full floating and come with
>Spirolox, along with the pistons being machined with lock removal indents.
>The pins have already been precision cut, fit, and chamfered, their already
>to go. The ring set is not standard issue 3000GT either, they are Total
Seal
>rings made for these pistons, and will NOT fit a stock 3000GT piston. The
>compression height remains, the stock 8.0-1 as we feel that this is optimal
>compression for turbocharged motors, and the top of the piston is  baby
>smooth with no sharp edges to help eliminate the chance of "hot spots".
>Background on ROSS:
>ROSS leads the way, with the latest in equipment and quality personnel to
>make a superior piston. This is their mission; "Make the best piston money
>can buy" regardless of price. They are not cheap, and they don't care, or
>wheel and deal on pistons. They do very little advertising, as they don't
>need to, they are swamped ALL the time with orders. One of the biggest
>differences between ROSS and companies like JE, Arias, etc., is that ROSS
>has machinery that is stae of the art, and much more up to date and they
are
>constantly investing, to make sure that they stay ahead of the competition.
>Their quality control checks are second to none, and all the pistons are
>checked by optical laser, nothing gets past them. One of the biggest thing
>that makes ROSS stand apart in respect to the piston manufacturing is their
>"gang cutter" this is a machine that cuts the ringlands into the piston.
The
>machine they have holds the piston in such a way that when the cutting tool
>contacts the piston to cut the ringlands , it is held in place VERY
rigidly,
>and the ringlands are cut perfectly warp free, and totally flat. JE, Arias
>and the rest have yet to buy one of these machines. You ask what does this
>mean to me? Well, imagine this: if the ring grooves are totally warp free
>and straight, the rings lay flat on the piston ringlands, this is
especially
>critical when you are really revving the motor because the rings are being
>pulled up and down, and if the rings don't have a completely flat surface
to
>put pressure on, they tend to flutter, because they do not have the full
>contact area. When the rings start to flutter to much, this is when rings
>start to break. Also another by product of totally flat ringlands, is
better
>sealing of the rings.
>
>These pistons are not to be confused with lesser forged pistons that are
>merely stock piston copies, using stock pins and stock specs etc.These are
>the best custom pistons money can buy. Sure you can buy cheaper pistons,
but
>that's what you get....


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:07:04 -0400
From: "Scotty" <omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Overboost

Brent,

        I overboosted my 92 RT Turbo, I had a Greedy Profect Turbo Adjuster
hooked up. Well The car seemed fine for a couple of days, but there I
started to seed that dreaded Blue Smoke coming out my tail pipes. To make
this story short, it cost me $4500 in Engine repairs, all new pistons rings,
and all that good stuff. Just keep an Eye on it. Hope you don't have to go
through what I did.

Scotty
92 Stealth RT
omnitech@fast.net
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brent & Tara Maksymiw <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: 3SI Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Overboost


> I ran into an overboost situation tonight during a bleeder valve install.
> During the install, I must have accidentally pulled off the sense line
from
> the corner of the Y-pipe to the H connector.  So even though my bleeder
> valve was shut, the pressure to the waste gates was straight to
atmosphere.
> I have an SPI boost gauge and was modulating throttle in 2nd gear to see
> what the boost would be.  On my first run, the boost went to 16psi, so I
> pulled over and made sure the bleeder was shut.  I couldn't see any
> disconnected lines.  I then went and did another 2nd gear pull and this
time
> the boost went to 17psi (I never had it under WOT).  It stumbled three
times
> really quick before I could get my foot off of the accelerator.  It was a
> stumble and not a face-through-the-windshield fuel cut.  It was probably
> never over 15psi on either of the two pulls for more than two seconds.
>
> Now the question.  What are the chances I did damage to the pistons/rings?
> I have since put the sensing hose back on and the car runs fine.  No loss
in
> power that I could tell (other than the fact it is back down to stock
> boost).
>
> Comments please!!!!
>
> Brent M.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 18:30:03 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: RH drive shaft

I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?

Dave
'91 RT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:08:01 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would shimmy....Any
idea's?

Josh-
Mine and I'm sure many others will respond that our '95 VR-4s
front brake rotors warp severley.  I have installed my third set
and they will warp soon, causing the shimmy you have.  I have no
solutions to offer, but the lists have promising alternatives.
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:39:57 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors

> Sounds good.  Do they require new calipers when installed on
>> VR4s ?  Anyone got an address or phone no. for  Porterfields
>> or an outfit that sells them?


>Rich just mentioned that they work with the stock calipers so I know I'm
>redunant for mentioning.  They are just aftermarket replacements though.

>Dave mentioned that he got his Wagner (but they might be Warner??)
>rotors from a local parts dealer.  However, I think the cryogenically
>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost rotor option
>currently.  Also, I made a mistake -- George is running cross drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated).  Here are the prices again:
>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+ front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled $50

>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph.  They
>are the only two folks that have snapped/broken rotors completely.  Dave
>should be inflicting the most punishment though since he has the big
>Porsche caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad Bedal.  Soooo, the
>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven low cost rotor to date.


Ken-

Thanks!
Regards, ptg

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 20:41:50 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors

>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost rotor option
>currently.  Also, I made a mistake -- George is running cross drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated).  Here are the prices again:


>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+ front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled $50
>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph. 

Ken-
Thanks for the info!
Regards, ptg



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 21:27:03 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors

>
>>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph.  They
>>are the only two folks that have snapped/broken rotors completely.  Dave
>>should be inflicting the most punishment though since he has the big
>>Porsche caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad Bedal.  Soooo, the
>>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven low cost rotor to date.
>
When I described my experiences snapping PowerSlots to the Porterfield
expert, he suggested that perhaps the rotors were breaking at the hub
because of cornering stresses. Topeka is primarily a left-hand track which
puts most of the stress on the right front wheel, and I did break two
right-hand rotors on two separate occasions, both breaking in the very
first driving session -- one on the 4th lap, one at the end of the first 20
min. session.

It does not matter, however, whether PowerSlots snap because of excessive
heat or cornering stresses. Either way, they are not suitable for open
track events. I don't want to use anything that might break into two pieces
and render my vehicle unbrakable again. The last time was kinda
frightening, when the brakes went at about 100 mph with a tight right
approaching. A long runoff area saved my big butt.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!

 
.


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 19:30:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RH drive shaft

These things can be a PITA.  They have a spring clip of some sort.  Prying
by itself won't usually cut it.  What you need to try and do is get a big
wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure on
the pry bar to push the shaft outwards.  I have seen people with "the knack"
do it with one simple blow.  The percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
with the ouutward pressure, off it comes.  I was not able to pry mine off.
Popping it with a blow or two did it.  The half shafts gave me the most
trouble.  I doubt I could pull it off twice in a row.  On one side I simply
pulled it off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
replacement.  Even though I had one side off I simply could not get the
other one to budge.  *shrug*

Hope that helps.



Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
> to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
> seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?
>
> Dave
> '91 RT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 00:09:08 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

The person who had the car before, had cross dilled rotors put on, I don't
know what type.  When I feel the rotor it feels really nice and smooth and
no warping.  I know on my SL when my rotors warped, they had ridges.  I was
thinking maybe the tire's aren't balance, but could they be warped and the
rotor be smooth?

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley [mailto:ptgolley@ro.com]
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:08 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies
when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would
shimmy....Any
idea's?

Josh-
Mine and I'm sure many others will respond that our '95
VR-4s
front brake rotors warp severley.  I have installed my third
set
and they will warp soon, causing the shimmy you have.  I
have no
solutions to offer, but the lists have promising
alternatives.
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 21:29:36 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

> When I feel the rotor it feels really nice and smooth and
>no warping.  I know on my SL when my rotors warped, they had ridges.  I was
>thinking maybe the tire's aren't balance, but could they be warped and the
>rotor be smooth?
>

you can't check warping by feeling the rotor --- you need to use a runout gage and slowly
turn the rotor. It only takes .010 " or so to  cause shimmy. To check while driving just
slowly apply light pressure on the brakes and if the rotors are warped the steering
wheel will rock back and forth 1\8 " or so at the same frequency as the wheels are turning.

         Jim Berry

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 23:14:19 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RH drive shaft

Thanks for the tip.  A pickle fork made a handy wedge, and wedging it in there clear of
the seal and giving it a couple firm whacks made it pop right out.  Once I got the
shaft out, I got to see the culprit.  The end of the shaft has a little notch about
1/4" from the end, where a circular clip is installed.  It actually just looks like a
piece of wire in a semicircle of slightly larger diameter.   The shop manual indicates
"N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!

Thanks,

Dave
'91 RT TT


"Barry E. King" wrote:

> These things can be a PITA.  They have a spring clip of some sort.  Prying
> by itself won't usually cut it.  What you need to try and do is get a big
> wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure on
> the pry bar to push the shaft outwards.  I have seen people with "the knack"
> do it with one simple blow.  The percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
> with the ouutward pressure, off it comes.  I was not able to pry mine off.
> Popping it with a blow or two did it.  The half shafts gave me the most
> trouble.  I doubt I could pull it off twice in a row.  On one side I simply
> pulled it off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
> replacement.  Even though I had one side off I simply could not get the
> other one to budge.  *shrug*
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
> > I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> > the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
> > to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> > it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
> > seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> > special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?
> >
> > Dave
> > '91 RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 00:57:01 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VPC on 94+ cars (slightly OT)

xwing wrote:

> > Maybe this info isn't forthcoming because you guys want to hold on to
> > your advantage ;), hmmm?
>
> mmmMMOOOHHHOHOHHHHhhhahhhahhaahhhhahaahhhhhh!
> Does anybody remember Daystrom, the guy on that original Star Trek
> episode, who built the M5 computer to run the ship but it went wild and
> destroyed innocents, and Daystrom went mad himself?   hehehe.

Hey, that's a great episode:  "The Ultimate Computer".  That's the
one where Kirk makes M5 agree that murder is bad and it should
be punishable by death, then he convinces M5 that is has itself
committed murder.

> it DID take me about a week in off hours, late nights, all the while talking to
> Barry King, Jeff Wong, Tom  in Idaho, Mike M, etc on MIRC trying to keep my mouth
> shut like that mathematics wizard who solved Fermat's last theorum with 7 years
> of work all in secret from his best friends...

Actually, Andrew Wiles would never have solved FLT if it wasn't
for the invaluable help of his friends/colleagues, and that includes
some of the final pieces that fell into place.  Furthermore, after Wiles
solved it he was happy to share the knowledge with others and make
it readily available.  [jab jab]

But I guess I can understand your motives to keep it under wraps
so that Mike can profit from his efforts, and all of your benevalent
yet Machiavellian nonsense about helping performance shops earn
a buck.  We all know that you just want Mike to give you good
deals on NOS.  ;)

Joshin' ya,

- --Errin H.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:05:23 -0400
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE9483.4B4089E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>Acc.Acc. gave Andy the same price on the clutch as the participants in =
the GP. I
>have not been informed by Matt or Frank that there is another friend =
who takes
>one. But, this is what a GP organizer is for.
>
>All: This seems to be an ongoing GP :)

I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original purchaser in the =
GP on these clutches. I am and was in need for one within a 3 week =
period so I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at RPS, and he had =
responded that they would be out within 2 weeks or close to that not the =
originally stated 2 months.  I had figured that I would have my clutch =
in time to reassemble my car by the Ocean City Gathering but now it =
doesn't appear that that will happen. I'm not sure on the date that my =
order had gone in but it appears that it wasn't soon enough to be =
included in that quoted shipment time :(   As far as others I had =
e-mailed one person that had said that they had originally received a GP =
price before the count down had been started.  The reason for this was =
that I had at that time just been quoted a price of $500 for that same =
clutch from Acc. Acc.

Andy


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV>&gt;Acc.Acc. gave Andy the same price on the clutch as the =
participants in=20
the GP. I<BR>&gt;have not been informed by Matt or Frank that there is =
another=20
friend who takes<BR>&gt;one. But, this is what a GP organizer is=20
for.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;All: This seems to be an ongoing GP :)</DIV>
<DIV><BR>I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original =
purchaser in=20
the GP on these clutches. I am and was in need for one within a 3 week =
period so=20
<FONT color=3D#0000ff>I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at =
</FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff face=3D"">RPS, and he had responded that they would be =
out within 2=20
weeks or close to that not the originally stated 2 months</FONT>.&nbsp; =
I had=20
figured that I would have my clutch in time to reassemble my car by the =
Ocean=20
City Gathering but now it doesn't appear that that will happen. I'm not =
sure on=20
the date that my order had gone in but it appears that it wasn't soon =
enough to=20
be included in that quoted shipment time :(&nbsp;&nbsp; As far as others =
I had=20
e-mailed one person that had said that they had originally received a GP =
price=20
before the count down had been started.&nbsp; The reason for this was =
that I had=20
at that time just been quoted a price of $500 for that same clutch from =
Acc.=20
Acc.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Andy</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE9483.4B4089E0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 17:20:08 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP

> I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original purchaser in the GP
> on these clutches.

This is true and unfortunately, somehow Andy's name came into this "private
meant" discussion. This was wrong and I'd like to apologize for that as it
caused many confusion.

Again, sorry for that !
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 08:31:18 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: RH drive shaft

David Margrave wrote:

>  The shop manual indicates
> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
> should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!
>

Hi Dave;

I must be missing something here. I don't understand why you want to replace a non
replaceable part. Is it broken, damaged, lost, unretrievable, or for some reason you're
unable to reuse it? I know it is nice to put new parts in, particularly small cheap things
that may may fail and compromise your work, but isn't non replaceable non replaceable?
However, on the other side of the things, if you find a part # be sure and post it  for
future reference :-)

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 09:35:32 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RH drive shaft

>David Margrave wrote:
>
>>  The shop manual indicates
>> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
>> should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!
>>
. I don't understand why you want to replace a non
>replaceable part. Is it broken, damaged, lost, unretrievable, or for some reason you're
>unable to reuse it? >
>

The confusion is the use of the term non-replaceable, the proper term is non-reusable.
Some parts stretch or otherwise deform when installed, used or removed, therefore
they want you to use a new part.
In this case, sense it's a retainer clip it could probably be reused, as long as its not bent
and is in no danger of coming off of the shaft.

Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 14:52:41 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP

Oskar,
We ended up with enough for the $450 price on the turbo clutch carbon which
is excellent for a $649 clutch.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP


>Roger and Frank,
>did we get enough participants to get into the better price brackets?
>Oskar
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Meyer <meyer2@erols.com>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 20:47
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
>
>
>>Roger,
>>Andy is a participant in the GP. He ordered at the same time as everyone
>>else.
>>Frank
>>www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>
>>>
>
>
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Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 19:43:34 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Team3S: clutch release bearing

sorry I'm so lame, but I can't figure out how to get the clutch bearing
off the trans input shaft.  The shop manual shows a snap ring, but I
can't find one except the one holding the input shaft in, which I'm not
going to screw with.

you wouldn't BELIEVE how much crud was inside the bellhousing!



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