--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #168
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Sunday, May 2
1999 Volume 01 :
Number
168
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 1 May 1999 17:43:41 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
Pistons
Barry,
Here is what they say...
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
>Hi
Matt here we go. ROSS custom 3000GT pistons. These pistons
were
>made using the latest advances in piston technology. This is NOT a
3000
>stock piston casting or copy, it is a proprietary casting that looks
oval
>when viewed. The ring pack has been moved down to keep the rings
away from
>the combustion chamber,since the rings have been moved down
toward the pin,
>oil support rails are included. 4 anti detonation grooves
have been cut
into
>the top of the piston to help quell detonation. The
piston rides on a
>slipper skirt forging for minimum contact area on the
cylinder walls to
>decrease friction, and the forging was made in such a
way to make the
piston
>as light as possible without having to use the
milling machine to carve out
>the excess weight. The material 2618T-61,
and machining they use also allow
>you to run a little tighter piston to
wall clearance, so you don't sound
>like a diesel truck when you are
running. The piston pins are $$ costly
>0.866 Super Duty 4340 taper wall
pins that are full floating and come with
>Spirolox, along with the
pistons being machined with lock removal indents.
>The pins have already
been precision cut, fit, and chamfered, their already
>to go. The ring set
is not standard issue 3000GT either, they are Total
Seal
>rings made
for these pistons, and will NOT fit a stock 3000GT piston.
The
>compression height remains, the stock 8.0-1 as we feel that this is
optimal
>compression for turbocharged motors, and the top of the piston
is baby
>smooth with no sharp edges to help eliminate the chance of
"hot spots".
>Background on ROSS:
>ROSS leads the way, with the
latest in equipment and quality personnel to
>make a superior piston. This
is their mission; "Make the best piston money
>can buy" regardless of
price. They are not cheap, and they don't care, or
>wheel and deal on
pistons. They do very little advertising, as they don't
>need to, they are
swamped ALL the time with orders. One of the biggest
>differences between
ROSS and companies like JE, Arias, etc., is that ROSS
>has machinery that
is stae of the art, and much more up to date and they
are
>constantly
investing, to make sure that they stay ahead of the competition.
>Their
quality control checks are second to none, and all the pistons
are
>checked by optical laser, nothing gets past them. One of the biggest
thing
>that makes ROSS stand apart in respect to the piston manufacturing
is their
>"gang cutter" this is a machine that cuts the ringlands into the
piston.
The
>machine they have holds the piston in such a way that when
the cutting tool
>contacts the piston to cut the ringlands , it is held in
place VERY
rigidly,
>and the ringlands are cut perfectly warp free, and
totally flat. JE, Arias
>and the rest have yet to buy one of these
machines. You ask what does this
>mean to me? Well, imagine this: if the
ring grooves are totally warp free
>and straight, the rings lay flat on
the piston ringlands, this is
especially
>critical when you are really
revving the motor because the rings are being
>pulled up and down, and if
the rings don't have a completely flat surface
to
>put pressure on,
they tend to flutter, because they do not have the full
>contact area.
When the rings start to flutter to much, this is when rings
>start to
break. Also another by product of totally flat ringlands,
is
better
>sealing of the rings.
>
>These pistons are not
to be confused with lesser forged pistons that are
>merely stock piston
copies, using stock pins and stock specs etc.These are
>the best custom
pistons money can buy. Sure you can buy cheaper pistons,
but
>that's
what you get....
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 1 May 1999 20:07:04 -0400
From: "Scotty" <omnitech@fast.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S:
Overboost
Brent,
I
overboosted my 92 RT Turbo, I had a Greedy Profect Turbo Adjuster
hooked up.
Well The car seemed fine for a couple of days, but there I
started to seed
that dreaded Blue Smoke coming out my tail pipes. To make
this story short,
it cost me $4500 in Engine repairs, all new pistons rings,
and all that good
stuff. Just keep an Eye on it. Hope you don't have to go
through what I
did.
Scotty
92 Stealth RT
omnitech@fast.net
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: Brent & Tara Maksymiw <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
To:
3SI Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, April 30, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Overboost
> I
ran into an overboost situation tonight during a bleeder valve install.
>
During the install, I must have accidentally pulled off the sense
line
from
> the corner of the Y-pipe to the H connector. So even
though my bleeder
> valve was shut, the pressure to the waste gates was
straight to
atmosphere.
> I have an SPI boost gauge and was modulating
throttle in 2nd gear to see
> what the boost would be. On my first
run, the boost went to 16psi, so I
> pulled over and made sure the bleeder
was shut. I couldn't see any
> disconnected lines. I then went
and did another 2nd gear pull and this
time
> the boost went to 17psi
(I never had it under WOT). It stumbled three
times
> really
quick before I could get my foot off of the accelerator. It was a
>
stumble and not a face-through-the-windshield fuel cut. It was
probably
> never over 15psi on either of the two pulls for more than two
seconds.
>
> Now the question. What are the chances I did
damage to the pistons/rings?
> I have since put the sensing hose back on
and the car runs fine. No loss
in
> power that I could tell
(other than the fact it is back down to stock
> boost).
>
>
Comments please!!!!
>
> Brent M.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 01 May 1999 18:30:03 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RH drive shaft
I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the
RH drive shaft out of
the transmission. The shop manual calls for
prying against the housing
to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it
out, but I can't get
it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the
shaft has. It
seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does
it specify any
special steps to remove a clip. Has anyone been through
this before?
Dave
'91 RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:08:01 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brakes shimmy question
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joshua
<joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy
question
>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors,
shimmies when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why
they would shimmy....Any
idea's?
Josh-
Mine and I'm sure many
others will respond that our '95 VR-4s
front brake rotors warp
severley. I have installed my third set
and they will warp soon,
causing the shimmy you have. I have no
solutions to offer, but the
lists have promising alternatives.
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:39:57 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
More rotors
> Sounds good. Do they require new calipers when
installed on
>> VR4s ? Anyone got an address or phone no.
for Porterfields
>> or an outfit that sells
them?
>Rich just mentioned that they work with the stock calipers
so I know I'm
>redunant for mentioning. They are just aftermarket
replacements though.
>Dave mentioned that he got his Wagner (but they
might be Warner??)
>rotors from a local parts dealer. However, I
think the cryogenically
>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost
rotor option
>currently. Also, I made a mistake -- George is running
cross drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated). Here are the
prices again:
>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+
front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled
$50
>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors
since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+
mph. They
>are the only two folks that have snapped/broken rotors
completely. Dave
>should be inflicting the most punishment though
since he has the big
>Porsche caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad
Bedal. Soooo, the
>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven
low cost rotor to date.
Ken-
Thanks!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 1 May 1999 20:41:50 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
More rotors
>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost rotor
option
>currently. Also, I made a mistake -- George is running cross
drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated). Here are the prices
again:
>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+
front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled
$50
>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors
since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+
mph.
Ken-
Thanks for the info!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 01 May 1999 21:27:03 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More rotors
>
>>It sounds like Rich and Dave give
the most punishment to rotors since
>>they are attending track events
and routinely brake from 120+ mph. They
>>are the only two folks
that have snapped/broken rotors completely. Dave
>>should be
inflicting the most punishment though since he has the big
>>Porsche
caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad Bedal. Soooo,
the
>>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven low cost rotor to
date.
>
When I described my experiences snapping PowerSlots to the
Porterfield
expert, he suggested that perhaps the rotors were breaking at the
hub
because of cornering stresses. Topeka is primarily a left-hand track
which
puts most of the stress on the right front wheel, and I did break
two
right-hand rotors on two separate occasions, both breaking in the
very
first driving session -- one on the 4th lap, one at the end of the first
20
min. session.
It does not matter, however, whether PowerSlots snap
because of excessive
heat or cornering stresses. Either way, they are not
suitable for open
track events. I don't want to use anything that might break
into two pieces
and render my vehicle unbrakable again. The last time was
kinda
frightening, when the brakes went at about 100 mph with a tight
right
approaching. A long runoff area saved my big butt.
Rich/old
poop/Somebody stop me!
.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 1 May 1999 19:30:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RH
drive shaft
These things can be a PITA. They have a spring clip of
some sort. Prying
by itself won't usually cut it. What you need
to try and do is get a big
wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard
with a bit of pressure on
the pry bar to push the shaft outwards. I
have seen people with "the knack"
do it with one simple blow. The
percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
with the ouutward pressure, off it
comes. I was not able to pry mine off.
Popping it with a blow or two
did it. The half shafts gave me the most
trouble. I doubt I could
pull it off twice in a row. On one side I simply
pulled it off the
knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
replacement. Even though
I had one side off I simply could not get the
other one to budge.
*shrug*
Hope that helps.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't
get the RH drive shaft out of
> the transmission. The shop manual
calls for prying against the housing
> to remove the shaft rather than
trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> it to budge more the the tiny
amount of in/out play the shaft has. It
> seems like there's a clip
holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> special steps to remove a
clip. Has anyone been through this before?
>
> Dave
>
'91 RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 May 1999 00:09:08 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
The person who had the car before, had
cross dilled rotors put on, I don't
know what type. When I feel the
rotor it feels really nice and smooth and
no warping. I know on my SL
when my rotors warped, they had ridges. I was
thinking maybe the tire's
aren't balance, but could they be warped and the
rotor be
smooth?
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley [mailto:ptgolley@ro.com]
Sent: Friday, April
30, 1999 10:08 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
-----Original
Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy
question
>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors,
shimmies
when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out
why they would
shimmy....Any
idea's?
Josh-
Mine and I'm sure
many others will respond that our '95
VR-4s
front brake rotors warp
severley. I have installed my third
set
and they will warp soon,
causing the shimmy you have. I
have no
solutions to offer, but the
lists have promising
alternatives.
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 1 May 1999 21:29:36 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brakes shimmy question
> When I feel the rotor it feels really nice
and smooth and
>no warping. I know on my SL when my rotors warped,
they had ridges. I was
>thinking maybe the tire's aren't balance,
but could they be warped and the
>rotor be smooth?
>
you
can't check warping by feeling the rotor --- you need to use a runout gage and
slowly
turn the rotor. It only takes .010 " or so to cause shimmy. To
check while driving just
slowly apply light pressure on the brakes and if the
rotors are warped the steering
wheel will rock back and forth 1\8 " or so at
the same frequency as the wheels are
turning.
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 01 May 1999 23:14:19 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RH drive shaft
Thanks for the tip. A pickle fork made a
handy wedge, and wedging it in there clear of
the seal and giving it a couple
firm whacks made it pop right out. Once I got the
shaft out, I got to
see the culprit. The end of the shaft has a little notch about
1/4"
from the end, where a circular clip is installed. It actually just looks
like a
piece of wire in a semicircle of slightly larger diameter.
The shop manual indicates
"N" in one of the figures for this part, which
indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
should try to track down a
replacement. What a pain!
Thanks,
Dave
'91 RT
TT
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> These things can be a
PITA. They have a spring clip of some sort. Prying
> by itself
won't usually cut it. What you need to try and do is get a big
>
wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure
on
> the pry bar to push the shaft outwards. I have seen people with
"the knack"
> do it with one simple blow. The percussion seems to
pop the snap ring and
> with the ouutward pressure, off it comes. I
was not able to pry mine off.
> Popping it with a blow or two did
it. The half shafts gave me the most
> trouble. I doubt I
could pull it off twice in a row. On one side I simply
> pulled it
off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
>
replacement. Even though I had one side off I simply could not get
the
> other one to budge. *shrug*
>
> Hope that
helps.
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> >
> >
> > I'm doing a clutch
replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> > the
transmission. The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
>
> to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't
get
> > it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft
has. It
> > seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere
does it specify any
> > special steps to remove a clip. Has
anyone been through this before?
> >
> > Dave
> > '91
RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 May 1999 00:57:01 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VPC on 94+ cars (slightly OT)
xwing wrote:
> >
Maybe this info isn't forthcoming because you guys want to hold on to
>
> your advantage ;), hmmm?
>
>
mmmMMOOOHHHOHOHHHHhhhahhhahhaahhhhahaahhhhhh!
> Does anybody remember
Daystrom, the guy on that original Star Trek
> episode, who built the M5
computer to run the ship but it went wild and
> destroyed innocents, and
Daystrom went mad himself? hehehe.
Hey, that's a great
episode: "The Ultimate Computer". That's the
one where Kirk makes
M5 agree that murder is bad and it should
be punishable by death, then he
convinces M5 that is has itself
committed murder.
> it DID take me
about a week in off hours, late nights, all the while talking to
> Barry
King, Jeff Wong, Tom in Idaho, Mike M, etc on MIRC trying to keep my
mouth
> shut like that mathematics wizard who solved Fermat's last theorum
with 7 years
> of work all in secret from his best
friends...
Actually, Andrew Wiles would never have solved FLT if it
wasn't
for the invaluable help of his friends/colleagues, and that
includes
some of the final pieces that fell into place. Furthermore,
after Wiles
solved it he was happy to share the knowledge with others and
make
it readily available. [jab jab]
But I guess I can
understand your motives to keep it under wraps
so that Mike can profit from
his efforts, and all of your benevalent
yet Machiavellian nonsense about
helping performance shops earn
a buck. We all know that you just want
Mike to give you good
deals on NOS. ;)
Joshin' ya,
-
--Errin H.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 May 1999 10:05:23 -0400
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE9483.4B4089E0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
>Acc.Acc. gave Andy the same price on the clutch as
the participants in =
the GP. I
>have not been informed by Matt or
Frank that there is another friend =
who takes
>one. But, this is what
a GP organizer is for.
>
>All: This seems to be an ongoing GP
:)
I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original purchaser in
the =
GP on these clutches. I am and was in need for one within a 3 week
=
period so I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at RPS, and he had
=
responded that they would be out within 2 weeks or close to that not the
=
originally stated 2 months. I had figured that I would have my clutch
=
in time to reassemble my car by the Ocean City Gathering but now it
=
doesn't appear that that will happen. I'm not sure on the date that my
=
order had gone in but it appears that it wasn't soon enough to be
=
included in that quoted shipment time :( As far as others I had
=
e-mailed one person that had said that they had originally received a GP
=
price before the count down had been started. The reason for this was
=
that I had at that time just been quoted a price of $500 for that same
=
clutch from Acc. Acc.
Andy
-
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE9483.4B4089E0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV>>Acc.Acc. gave Andy
the same price on the clutch as the =
participants in=20
the GP.
I<BR>>have not been informed by Matt or Frank that there is
=
another=20
friend who takes<BR>>one. But, this is what a GP
organizer is=20
for.<BR>><BR>>All: This seems to be
an ongoing GP :)</DIV>
<DIV><BR>I'm not sure what this was
about, but I was an original =
purchaser in=20
the GP on these clutches. I
am and was in need for one within a 3 week =
period so=20
<FONT
color=3D#0000ff>I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at
=
</FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff face=3D"">RPS, and he had
responded that they would be =
out within 2=20
weeks or close to that not
the originally stated 2 months</FONT>. =
I had=20
figured
that I would have my clutch in time to reassemble my car by the
=
Ocean=20
City Gathering but now it doesn't appear that that will happen.
I'm not =
sure on=20
the date that my order had gone in but it appears
that it wasn't soon =
enough to=20
be included in that quoted shipment
time :( As far as others =
I had=20
e-mailed one
person that had said that they had originally received a GP
=
price=20
before the count down had been started. The reason
for this was =
that I had=20
at that time just been quoted a price of $500
for that same clutch from
=
Acc.=20
Acc.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Andy</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_001A_01BE9483.4B4089E0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 May 1999 17:20:08 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
> I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an
original purchaser in the GP
> on these clutches.
This is true and
unfortunately, somehow Andy's name came into this "private
meant" discussion.
This was wrong and I'd like to apologize for that as it
caused many
confusion.
Again, sorry for that !
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 May 1999 08:31:18 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RH drive shaft
David Margrave wrote:
> The shop
manual indicates
> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which
indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
> should try to track down a
replacement. What a pain!
>
Hi Dave;
I must be missing
something here. I don't understand why you want to replace a non
replaceable
part. Is it broken, damaged, lost, unretrievable, or for some reason
you're
unable to reuse it? I know it is nice to put new parts in,
particularly small cheap things
that may may fail and compromise your work,
but isn't non replaceable non replaceable?
However, on the other side of the
things, if you find a part # be sure and post it for
future reference
:-)
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 May 1999 09:35:32 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RH drive shaft
>David Margrave wrote:
>
>> The
shop manual indicates
>> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which
indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
>> should try to track down a
replacement. What a pain!
>>
. I don't understand why you want
to replace a non
>replaceable part. Is it broken, damaged, lost,
unretrievable, or for some reason you're
>unable to reuse it?
>
>
The confusion is the use of the term non-replaceable, the
proper term is non-reusable.
Some parts stretch or otherwise deform when
installed, used or removed, therefore
they want you to use a new part.
In
this case, sense it's a retainer clip it could probably be reused, as long as
its not bent
and is in no danger of coming off of the shaft.
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 2 May 1999 14:52:41 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RPS Clutch GP
Oskar,
We ended up with enough for the $450 price on the
turbo clutch carbon which
is excellent for a $649 clutch.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, April 29, 1999 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
GP
>Roger and Frank,
>did we get enough participants to get
into the better price brackets?
>Oskar
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Meyer <meyer2@erols.com>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date:
Thursday, April 29, 1999 20:47
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
GP
>
>
>>Roger,
>>Andy is a participant in the GP.
He ordered at the same time as
everyone
>>else.
>>Frank
>>www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>
>>>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 02 May 1999 19:43:34 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: clutch release bearing
sorry I'm so lame, but I can't figure out
how to get the clutch bearing
off the trans input shaft. The shop
manual shows a snap ring, but I
can't find one except the one holding the
input shaft in, which I'm not
going to screw with.
you wouldn't
BELIEVE how much crud was inside the bellhousing!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #168
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