--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #165
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Wednesday, April 28 1999        Volume 01 : Number 165




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:07:59 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds!

Henry:
If the watercooled AP calipers are around $2200, how much are the
discs/rest of kit?  Is it $2200 for ONE caliper or for 2?  How does the
water circulate?  How much for the whole watercooled setup?  Sounds like
that is the max effort brake kit for the front we know of so far if it
can work...I want to have WAY TOO MUCH BRAKING ability, I am tired of
fade and boiling!   I wonder how much/if the dual caliper-per-wheel is
more capable than the watercooled single?

BTW, the AP 14" brakes are pictured in an Option 2 magazine September
1996.  That issue is FILLED with tests of different ROTORS;
CALIPERS/kits from AP, Brembo, Endless, Nissan, TRD, Alcon, Endless;
brake PAD tests on computer logger/graphing of temp stability vs.
force/fade for Pagid, Hawk, Ferodo, Brembo, FET, Endless, Quest, GAB,
Super Sprint, Zeal, Image, Performance Friction, HKS, etc.
Has tests of brake FLUID, braided brake LINES, additional items like
cooling ducts, caliper paints, temp monitor strips, etc and all in
Japanese so it was pretty much useless to this Gaijin except for the
pictures.  Has a red GTO with AP 6 piston 14" (355mm) brakes.  Neat.
The pads are long but somewhat narrower width compared to some others
(Brembos).

If I change fronts, I'd rather like to put my Brembo 12.2" on the back
of the car if possible...wonder how hard that would be.
- -----------------------------------------------------------
- --->DRAGSTRIP GATHERING:  TOMORROW  (Today, on Weds!)
- --->Wednesday 4/28/99  at Union Grove, Great Lakes Dragaway, Union
Grove, Wisconsin

A moderately large group of cars including around 6-7 Diamond Stars and
at least 3 3000GT VR4's will be at Great Lakes Wednesday night for some
time runs etc...I'll have my '94...gotta get the daily car up to snuff!

Jack Tertadian

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:34:06 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999

>There is also a process that uses vibration to equalize internal
>stresses in weldments, castings and fabrications. I'm not sure that
>this will help rotors stabilize and prevent warping but it will
>stabilize the internals stresses which cause the warping. Is this a
>thorough enough process?
>
>I have a friend locally that owns a heat treating facility that
>performs this process and it could help. I'll check with him to see if
>he also does cryo too.


Ron-
Do check this out! It would be a godsend to us VR-4 owners
if something like this could be done to our front brake rotors,
alleviating the horrible warping that the OEM rotors develop
after a few miles. 
Regards, ptg

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:45:14 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: FS: Apex'i Turbo Timer

I have an Apex'i turbo timer that I will likely not use.  I have had it for
nearly a year and it still just sits here.  You'd think by now it would have
made its way into the car. ;)

I also bought a harness for it so installation is easy.

New, original box with harness $100.00 + shipping, firm.


Regards,

Barry

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:27:50 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: GTO continuation, injector malfunction

> And, aren't 3 catalitic converters too many?  Is it a
> okay idea to
> remove two of them and leave only one?

Actually, this is a popular mod amongst the lists. Gutting the precats. All
they do is "pre"catalyze the exhaust until the engine is up to temperature
and the main cat can take over. Well at least that's my interpretation.
Someone let me know if i'm wrong.

Omar
92 r/t


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:36:24 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds!

>that is the max effort brake kit for the front we know of so far if it
>can work...I want to have WAY TOO MUCH BRAKING ability, I am tired of
>fade and boiling!   I wonder how much/if the dual caliper-per-wheel is
>more capable than the watercooled single?


Jack-
Do any of the "super-cars" resort to water cooled brakes?  E.G:
Ferraris, Lambos, Maclarins, (spelling?)etc.  I've just put the third set
of front rotors on my '95 VR-4 and I expect them to warp within
a few weeks (or days).  It only takes about 30 minutes to install
new ones, but it is a real pain that its so often necessary.  I think that
warp-free rotors could be made for our cars if someone thought
it was a profitable venture. 
Regards, ptg

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:29:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report

- --- Trent <rtrent@nlci.com> wrote:
> It seems I've underestimated the need for better air
> into our induction
> system.

My bro and his buddy both have '98 M3s.. they raced on back streets and
both of the cars were exactly the same in performance.  Weeks ago my
bro replaced the supposely restrictive stock air box with a supposely
better flow K&N-type cone air filter (Weapon-R). They raced again and
my bro's car was 1-2 car lengths slower!! We then figured out that the
cone filter was actually sucking up hot air around the engine area..
and the stock air box actually have a ram/cold air effect from the
front factory grill..

I then seriously checked out our intake area and find no air inlets..
if somehow i can get cold air to flow thru there.. bang! HP!!  I
checked out the ram air mod from the 3SI.org but couldnt figure out the
instructions~ =(  Now i'm thinking of cutting up the hood and put a
scoop where the K&N is... but still havent found a good looking scoop
yet... anyone have other ideas?

George
Irvine, CA

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:40:24 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood

:
>
>> > I've decided to look into modifying a 1st gen. hood for
>> > improved air inlet.
>>
>> I think it would be worth looking into outlet's rather
>> than inlets
>
>...which would mean that instead of a hood, buy a set of shock tower
covers/hood
>blisters, for a lot less and do some modifications to them.

I recently modified the shock covers on my 93 TT to open electrically using
modified Ford Explorer mirror motors. They pivot at the back and the lift at
the front of the cover is about 2 3/4".
Preliminary temp measurements are disappointing, in that,
I can open the vents while driving and get little change in intake air temp.
I have one air thermocouple [ 1 sec equilibrium ] mounted by the intake
and a second bead thermocouple [ 4 or 5 sec equilibrium ] mounted just
before the throttle body in the Y pipe. As mentioned the intake air is
probably 15 degrees above ambient and opening the vents only changes
the temp by a few degrees.The bead thermocouple is a little slow in
response time and is of limited use.
Of note is the large increase in input air temp under WOT --- preliminary
measurements show as much as 40 degree increase. I've only spent an hour
or so playing with the system and therefore have limited results.
I'm going to be getting a dual input meter and another air thermocouple
which will allow me to take differential measurements over a wider range
of conditions.


Jim Berry                    ------93     "arrest me red" Stealth  TT -----
                   SSBC @  1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @ .034
                             G--Tech    0 --60  4.75 sec.    1/4  13.3 @ 110
                                               [ suspension mods next ]




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 23:40:23 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: SRS light revisited

A while back Ken Middaugh wrote:
>Recently, the battery on my '91 VR4 died.  Since then, the damned SRS
>light has remained on.  The 'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure
>has not worked the numerous times I've tried it.  Is there a trick with
>this procedure

Any luck Ken??
I have had the same problem since I temporarily removed my passenger side
airbag.  What is the 'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure?  Is it
documented in the service manual?  I briefly looked thru chapter 23 tonight,
but was unable to find anything on this topic.

To the Team3S list:
Can SRS components be disconnected and then reconnected without any special
procedures?  Or will disconnecting SRS components cause fault codes to be
stored in the computer - if so, how do I best get this condition reset?

Oskar Persson
'95 R/T TT

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:00:37 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report

George;

Check out Todd's website for a forward facing scoop. He seems to do well with it.

Other options are modifying the hood blisters (as previously noted) to extract air, and
fabricating inlets/miniscoops to ram cool air in at the bottom of the dam/spoiler. This
would create a flow of cool in and up and hot air up and out. Engine bay temps drop,
cooler air to air filter, intercooler temps drop, etc. Has to be a way to do this cheap.
Don't we have R&D people here or do I have to get my sorry ass out there and do it
myself. Limitations accepted, I may have to.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:29:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Raise hood? (was: Inlet air Temp. Report)

  Has anyone tried to raise the rear of the hood? This might be a good
way to exit some hot air.. I did this mod in my previous car (Eagle
Talon TSI) with just a buncha thick washers.. the car looked like it
had major engine work done and hood wouldn't close! =) haha.. it looked
pretty good and Im sure it vented alot of hot air..
  My friend tried to do it in his vr4 years ago but failed.. he tried
to do it himself and the hood was too heavy.. i think he bent the
joints.. so no attemp was done again..
  Of course the Talon didnt have the hydralic absorber thing for the
hood stand.. so I dunno if that will make a difference.. any input?

George
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:30:51 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood

james berry wrote:

snip

> I recently modified the shock covers on my 93 TT to open electrically using
> modified Ford Explorer mirror motors. They pivot at the back and the lift at
> the front of the cover is about 2 3/4".

snip

Jim, this sounds like you're using them for intake scoops rather than for extraction of
hot air. What would it be like if you could vent it out at the back of them, moving hot
air out, so cool air could enter via the bottom of the car? Just a thought.

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 01:08:56 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Raise hood? (was: Inlet air Temp. Report)

i recall we had been over this before on one of the lists, but isn't that a
high pressure area right where the hood meets the windshield? Why would they
put the heater air inlet there if it weren't? I forget who was right, but
there was a suggestion to attach pieces of yarn or something with tape at
various points to see which way the air flows over that area.

Omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of George Kuo
> Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 12:30 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Raise hood? (was: Inlet air Temp. Report)
>
>
>   Has anyone tried to raise the rear of the hood? This might be a good
> way to exit some hot air.. I did this mod in my previous car (Eagle
> Talon TSI) with just a buncha thick washers.. the car looked like it
> had major engine work done and hood wouldn't close! =) haha.. it looked
> pretty good and Im sure it vented alot of hot air..
>   My friend tried to do it in his vr4 years ago but failed.. he tried
> to do it himself and the hood was too heavy.. i think he bent the
> joints.. so no attemp was done again..
>   Of course the Talon didnt have the hydralic absorber thing for the
> hood stand.. so I dunno if that will make a difference.. any input?
>
> George
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 01:27:33 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood

> Jim, this sounds like you're using them for intake scoops rather
> than for extraction of
> hot air. What would it be like if you could vent it out at the
> back of them, moving hot
> air out, so cool air could enter via the bottom of the car? Just
> a thought.>
> Darc

I recently tried something along these lines in my NA car. raised the backs
of the blisters, and added a dryer duct going from my intercooler port (R/T)
to the general air filter area. It wasn't sealed up in any way around the
air filter. Just sort of a method of setting up air flow combined with the
hood blisters. Well. I didn't notice too much difference. Then i tried to
seal off the air filter away from the rest of the engine the best i could.
In other words i used laminated cardboard and duct tape. I also add a layer
of foam on top for a thermal barrier. At first, i couldn't really tell the
difference. I left it in there for a week to experiment. It seems it does
work to some extent. Hot days and cool nights is a good way to test this
here in houston. And over time i realized that my car always seemed just a
little more peppy at night if anything. No real performance gains as i
didn't test for such, but a definite difference once i paid attention to it.
Basically, airflow does need to be set up through the air filter area, but
it should be somehow isolated aerodynamically and thermally from the rest of
the engine. I'm sure it can be prototyped cheaply, but it would take some
time and effort to come up with a good design. The TT cars would benifit
greatly.

Omar
92 r/t


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:17:45 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?

Robyn...

Try locking the door with the key.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Stealth [mailto:cirrus@shore.intercom.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 2:36 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?

>Turning off the BC will do nothing to cool your turbos, which is what the
TT
>is designed to do. Basically, it allows you to lock your car and walk away
>with the engine running

Hhmm, mine automatically unlocks the doors upon shutoff. If I need to lock
the car when I park, I have to either sit there and wait for it to shut off
after the designated time frame or manually override it and shut it off
myself.

I think it's a safety feature designed to keep people from locking their
keys in the car. Although unlocking after it shuts off has its negative
features...

Robyn
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:27:59 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: For Sale : AFC, 560cc Injectors, 1998 Repair Manuals

I have the following items for sale.  No haggling.
I will negotiate if someone is interested in everything.

APEXi Super AFC $250 Shipped
RC Engineering 560cc Injectors $425 shipped
1998 Repair Manuals (new just opened) $40 shipped

Please Email me privately only. <---------- LOOK

Thanks,
Chris




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:23:40 -0400
From: "Michael Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Economy Question

Hi everyone,

I have been getting poor fuel mileage for over a year now.  I was loosing
about 40-50 kms per tank.  Last year I had a hole in my downpipe, which I
had temporarily fixed and last month I had my plugs changed and wires, fuel
filter etc checked.  No real improvement.

I suspected that one of my cats were blocked so I waited until I had the
time to get an HKS downpipe installed (which took almost one year to get).
Its design eliminates one of the pre-cats and upon inspection, the main cat
was not blocked.

I seems that I am getting better mileage, how can this be?  I've had the
downpipe on for about a week now.  No other mods yet other than an air
filter.

Mike
91TT



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:41:56 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Active aero stops air? was: 1st Gen. Hood Mods -Reply

Can anyone comment on this? If they have observed what the
differences are? I would gladly dump the front active aero in favor of
letting more air in. Of course if it's barely any difference i don't see why
bothering...

BTW- does anyone know the total weight savings of removing front
active aero?

Thanks,
Gavin

>>> "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com> 04/27/99 09:00pm >>>
A quick inspection of the air filter area shows that air for the most part,
can only get in or out from underneath.  Even this route is largely blocked
by the active aero/shrouding behind the front spoiler.  My concern with
using the blister opening for an outlet is that your drawing warm engine
air
right past the filter on its way out.  If you've removed the blister, you
will have noticed that the usefull opening is only about 8 sq. in. and
behind the filter.  I suspect the over priced boze speed blisters are
useless.  Initially, it makes more sense to me to bring in ambient air as
close to direct to the inlet as possible.  Let the warm air get out however
it does now, just as long as when the filter is sucking the 720 cfm it
needs, theres a close supply of ambient air available.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:44:09 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Economy Question

Michael...

Was the precat blocked?

Did you gut the rear precat as well as replace the front?

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Chan [mailto:michael.chan@hcl.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 7:24 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Fuel Economy Question

Hi everyone,

I have been getting poor fuel mileage for over a year now.  I was loosing
about 40-50 kms per tank.  Last year I had a hole in my downpipe, which I
had temporarily fixed and last month I had my plugs changed and wires, fuel
filter etc checked.  No real improvement.

I suspected that one of my cats were blocked so I waited until I had the
time to get an HKS downpipe installed (which took almost one year to get).
Its design eliminates one of the pre-cats and upon inspection, the main cat
was not blocked.

I seems that I am getting better mileage, how can this be?  I've had the
downpipe on for about a week now.  No other mods yet other than an air
filter.

Mike
91TT



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:56:44 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds! -Reply

Well sounds like it would behoove you and us to send the magazine to
someone on the list who could possibly translate the results.

Anyone know Japanese?

Gavin

(DAMNIT i know someone on the stealth.net who does....argh)

>>> xwing <xwing@execpc.com> 04/28/99 10:07am >>>
BTW, the AP 14" brakes are pictured in an Option 2 magazine September
1996.  That issue is FILLED with tests of different ROTORS;
CALIPERS/kits from AP, Brembo, Endless, Nissan, TRD, Alcon, Endless;
brake PAD tests on computer logger/graphing of temp stability vs.
force/fade for Pagid, Hawk, Ferodo, Brembo, FET, Endless, Quest, GAB,
Super Sprint, Zeal, Image, Performance Friction, HKS, etc.
Has tests of brake FLUID, braided brake LINES, additional items like
cooling ducts, caliper paints, temp monitor strips, etc and all in
Japanese so it was pretty much useless to this Gaijin except for the
pictures.  Has a red GTO with AP 6 piston 14" (355mm) brakes.  Neat.
The pads are long but somewhat narrower width compared to some
others
(Brembos).

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:59:00 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: hood scoops

>
>> I recently modified the shock covers on my 93 TT to open electrically
using
>> modified Ford Explorer mirror motors. They pivot at the back and the lift
at
>> the front of the cover is about 2 3/4".
>
>Jim, this sounds like you're using them for intake scoops rather than for
extraction of
>hot air. What would it be like if you could vent it out at the back of
them, moving hot
>air out, so cool air could enter via the bottom of the car? Just a thought.
>

It would require some elaborate machine work to make them extraction
vents --- the shock towers are at the back and leave no room for motors.
I did remove a little of the interior hood structure to provide a larger
opening for more air flow.
No effort has been made yet to isolate the intake area such that it gets
all of its air from the vent. I don't see that as a particularly good option
as it would require the vents to be open all the time. The object in my
case was only to open the vents in certain circumstances to improve
power or efficiency.
At minimum it will be an interesting engineering exercise and I'm sure
that I could improve the input air temp for drag racing. As I mentioned
before the WOT temps were very high --- isolating the intake and
opening  the vent should drop the intake charge 40 degrees or so.
I'll post more as I get data.

             Jim Berry


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:48:55 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: make new hood was: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood -Reply

Incidentally someone on the stealth list was going to get a new fiber and
carbon fiber hood fabricated...however stealth.net has stopped/died
recently...maybe someone else could take on this project? We really just
need someone who can work with fiber and make molds.

Anyone know such a contact?

Gavin
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:58:29 -0400
From: "Michael Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Economy Question

Chris,

I don't believe that the precat was blocked (I will have to unwrap it and
look) and I did not have the rear one gutted.  Emission testing (for my car
next year) has me a little worried.  I just can't figure out why I might be
getting slightly better results.

I will fill up, before April 30!  =;-) and see how it goes for the next few
weeks or so.

Mike



- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 10:45 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel Economy Question


>Michael...
>
>Was the precat blocked?
>
>Did you gut the rear precat as well as replace the front?
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:27:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: make new hood was: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood -Reply

Gavin,
  Checkout www.techhoods.com  They are called US Body
Source and they are located in Fl.  They should be
able to help.  I had post this over the weekend but I
guess no one saw the post.

- --- Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com> wrote:
> Incidentally someone on the stealth list was going
> to get a new fiber and
> carbon fiber hood fabricated...however stealth.net
> has stopped/died
> recently...maybe someone else could take on this
> project? We really just
> need someone who can work with fiber and make molds.
>
> Anyone know such a contact?
>
> Gavin
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

===
- -Frank-
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:42:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS light revisited

Oskar wrote:
>
> A while back Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >Recently, the battery on my '91 VR4 died.  Since then, the damned SRS
> >light has remained on.  The 'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure
> >has not worked the numerous times I've tried it.  Is there a trick with
> >this procedure
>
> Any luck Ken??
> I have had the same problem since I temporarily removed my passenger side
> airbag.  What is the 'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure?  Is it
> documented in the service manual?  I briefly looked thru chapter 23 tonight,
> but was unable to find anything on this topic.

The most useful response was from Mike Klassen:
"I just looked up the TSB's at all data, what do you suppose this one
says?

080293 JAN 93       Supplemental Restraint Diagnostic Code Erase
Function "

Does anyone have access to the full document?

I think the 'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure is in the Owner's
Manual.

- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:50:37 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds!

"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
>
snip
> Ferraris, Lambos, Maclarins, (spelling?)etc.  I've just put the third set
> of front rotors on my '95 VR-4 and I expect them to warp within
> a few weeks (or days).  It only takes about 30 minutes to install
> new ones, but it is a real pain that its so often necessary.  I think that
> warp-free rotors could be made for our cars if someone thought
> it was a profitable venture.

Paul,

Within the last week and a half, two rotors were mentioned that seem
strong and won't warp.  George Koa says he is running Porterfield non
cross drilled rotors (Porterfield also has cryo treatment as an
option).  Dave (who recently broke the KVR rotor with Brad's Porsche
caliper upgrade) said he is now running non cross drilled Wagner
(Warner??) rotors.  Both guys punish their brakes and are very happy
with these rotors.  They are both about the price of stock Mitsu rotors.


- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:56:49 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors

Joshua wrote:
>
> Which is better cross drilled or Cryogenic?  Thanks

They are not mutually exclusive, you can get both!  However, current
list reports favor the non cross drilled rotors.  Folks have reported
that the low cost cross drilled rotors will crack around the holes.
Roger & Mikael speak favorably of the expensive Bremsa rotors which I
believe are cross drilled.  No one has yet tried the Porterfield cryo
treated and cross drilled rotors on the track yet.  They may be
satisfactory!?!?
- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:44:27 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: techhoods.com was: Re: make new hood

Well i talked to www.techhoods.com, WHAT AN ABSOLUTE @)#$@#$.
For starters, they will not do anything for us, or at least that's what the
lady said. On top of the she was such a, (read above). Very rude and
simply had no idea about jack.

I don't think they will be any help to us, but if someone would like to probe
deeper then that stupid, (read above), be my guest. They said they only
do domenstics....so if someone does call, i would only require for the
stealths.

Gavin

>>> Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com> 04/28/99 01:27pm >>>
Gavin,
  Checkout www.techhoods.com  They are called US Body
Source and they are located in Fl.  They should be
able to help.  I had post this over the weekend but I
guess no one saw the post.

- --- Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com> wrote:
> Incidentally someone on the stealth list was going
> to get a new fiber and
> carbon fiber hood fabricated...however stealth.net
> has stopped/died
> recently...maybe someone else could take on this
> project? We really just
> need someone who can work with fiber and make molds.
>
> Anyone know such a contact?
>
> Gavin
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

===
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                                    "JEEPers"
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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:01:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors

- --- Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com> wrote:

> No one has yet tried the
> Porterfield cryo
> treated and cross drilled rotors on the track yet.
> They may be
> satisfactory!?!?

I have the Porterfield cross drilled rotors.. I dunno if they were cryo
treated or not.. I got these 2-3 years ago.. i believe they told me it
was 'specially-treated, not just ordinary stockers'..

I haven't gone out to the track for the past year or two due to afraid
to damage the engine (rebuilt last yr) plus i'm broke.. but i did get 2
weekend events out of them 2-3 years ago.. one thing I notice the most
is that the cross-drilling didnt eat up the pads like my other cheap
x-drills and the brembo x-drills (pad compounds filled the x-drills)..

I'm still using the rotors today, the \ / still looks great.  When i
was at Stillen's open house, I checked out the sales (Ryan)'s stealth
with the brembo kit.. his \ / was all gone and it looked like this |
|... with some pad compound in the x-drillings.. and i know he never
been on an open track event!

I forgot exactly how much I paid for these rotors.. but I recall it
wasnt as much as what they are trying to sell now...

Hope all that \ / | | make sense.. learned it from Ken! =)

George
'92 RT TT

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:49:54 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: techhoods.com was: Re: make new hood -Reply

Sorry, i forgot....the site does have a lot of good pics for hood ideas
though. I especially liked the dual ram air idea.

Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:09:32 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

Ok I found a place that is more then happy to fabricate a hood for us, out
of any material we want, cheap fiber, carbon fiber, ultra-space age
carbon fiber. Once they make the mold it is basically up to the individual
to pick how high a quality he/she wants.

Anyways, what is needed to get there: Please send me detailed shots of
the hood. The hood closed from a couple angles, the hood open from a
couple angels and all the mounting points. That will let us begin the
conversations of what is feasible. After this point, they will need a actual
hood. Anyone if Southern Cali? If not I MAY be able to send out my hood
in a couple weeks while it is getting some performance work done.

http://advancedcompositeseng.com/

I told him we would want a ram air effect, room for a strut bar, and any
other good ways to vent heat. Note to Rich: think about if maybe there is
some way you could use a duct in the hood to feed the brakes?

I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air to the filter on the
passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity. The maybe to
much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the brakes?

Let's get the ball rolling.

Gavin

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:25:40 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

I can get some pics of  my mom's 95 spyder hood tonight with my digital
camera, tell em where to send them.

-----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Wallis [mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 4:10 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes
stuff too

Ok I found a place that is more then happy to fabricate a
hood for us, out
of any material we want, cheap fiber, carbon fiber,
ultra-space age
carbon fiber. Once they make the mold it is basically up to
the individual
to pick how high a quality he/she wants.

Anyways, what is needed to get there: Please send me
detailed shots of
the hood. The hood closed from a couple angles, the hood
open from a
couple angels and all the mounting points. That will let us
begin the
conversations of what is feasible. After this point, they
will need a actual
hood. Anyone if Southern Cali? If not I MAY be able to send
out my hood
in a couple weeks while it is getting some performance work
done.

http://advancedcompositeseng.com/

I told him we would want a ram air effect, room for a strut
bar, and any
other good ways to vent heat. Note to Rich: think about if
maybe there is
some way you could use a duct in the hood to feed the
brakes?

I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air
to the filter on the
passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity. The
maybe to
much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the
brakes?

Let's get the ball rolling.

Gavin

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:40:34 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply

Right to me please. That goes to anyone else...

Do you or does anyone else know if the spyders have the same hood?
I'm going to cruise the web for pics...I believe it's the same as 2nd gen
3000gts though.

Gavin

>>> Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com> 04/28/99 04:25pm >>>
I can get some pics of  my mom's 95 spyder hood tonight with my digital
camera, tell em where to send them.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:40:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors

>> No one has yet tried the
>> Porterfield cryo
>> treated and cross drilled rotors on the track yet.
>
OK, I ordered a set of front rotors for my 94 VR4.
I am getting Porterfield rotors that are cryogenically treated with
Porterfield R4 race pads.
The rotors are not drilled or slotted.
Allegedly, these will NOT WARP.

I'll install the rotors with stock pads and keep them in until about a week
before the next event -- probably in June  -- then stick the R4s in and bed
them. I'm also getting a much larger pad than I have been using (I forget
all the dimensions and part numbers), but it appears that the R4s will be a
little longer and a little taller, providing a bit more surface area.

Tim at Porterfield says the R4s won't last diddly on the street -- maybe
3,000 miles, tops -- but they will last an entire weekend on the track. He
says I can drive to the track no problem, but I should swap back to street
pads between race events. Because of the R4 compound, I can use street pads
on the same rotors.

Tim says we could put a more aggressive pad on the rears, which might help
the bite back there. Maybe later. I say let's solve one problem at a time.

So this means I'm the guinea pig...er, test vehicle...for the 3S list, eh?
My pleasure.

There is a possibility I might be able to get it all together for an event
at Heartland Park in Topeka on May 15, but that may be pushing it. I'm
still working on my water-injected ducting system (I have enough parts to
build a prototype this weekend).

Geez, if all this works, I won't know where to give the credit: to the new
rotors, new pads, better air ducts, or the water injection system. Still,
who cares?

I'll keep the list posted.
If anyone else wants to talk to Tim at Porterfield, call 800-537-6842
I told him that if this system works, they'll have to work overtime to keep
up with the demand from racers on the 3S list.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:46:19 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report

> checked out the ram air mod from the 3SI.org but couldnt figure out the
> instructions~ =(

Yes, because the idea is for the NA cars.

> Now i'm thinking of cutting up the hood and put a
> scoop where the K&N is... but still havent found a good looking scoop
> yet... anyone have other ideas?

Why not adding a middle hood scoop ? They are available for our
Camaros/Birds/Vettes and is usually only meant for dress-up (big block hood
style). Under this scoop the hood can be cut out and some plastic parts can
guide the air to the filter as well as to the intake plenum and down to the rear
turbo. Dunno how this will look on our car but will probably work fine :)

Maybe a good PainShop work could give us an idea :)

Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:16:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer? -Reply

> Anyone know how the Blitz FATT (Full Auto Turbo Timer) works?

Read my last post about the Blitz Timer :)

> I thought it was basing the time off of the engine's RPM, but after
> installing the DSBC, it has increased the average idle time, which I
> agree with, I just don't know how it knew.  As far as I can tell, it has no
> knowledge of the boost level.

Dunno the FATT but my Blitz Dual Timer does have a boost sensor as it is also a
boost gauge.

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:33:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds!

> Do any of the "super-cars" resort to water cooled brakes?  E.G:
> Ferraris, Lambos, Maclarins, (spelling?)etc.

I never heard of or saw any of such cars using water-cooled brakes. Ferrari and
Lamorghini both are using Brembo brakes. The street McLaren also uses Brembo but
I heard the racing version uses ap-Racing.

// Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:31:01 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller

> > Ok ... but where is the IN coming from ??
> Straight from the Y-pipe.

Good :)

> It should always have more pressure than the DSBC
> is putting out, so the response time should not matter.

This is true as the valves are alternated.

> Oh, I thought you only had to increase pressure from the DSBC to the
> wastegate actuator.

Not increase but the solenoids just let the pressure in the y-pipe to the
wastegate actuators to open the WGs (or alternating them)

> I thought the actual air to the IC, piping, Y-Pipe,
> came straight from the turbos with the wastegate closed.

The wastegate is not on the fresh air path but on the exhaust path. Opening the
wag causes the gases passing the turbine wheel that drives the compressor wheel.
If the WG is open, the turbine spools slower and therefore less boost is
produced. The fresh, compressed air is then going to the intake path directly
from the turbo. Just look at my drawing on the turbo basics page :)

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:50:05 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

>I told him we would want a ram air effect, room for a strut bar, and any
>other good ways to vent heat.

I am all in favor of getting a front strut bar.
As for venting heat, be sure to NOT vent heat at the back center of the
hood -- that's the fresh air inlet for our ventilation system. Instead,
vent at the side rear of the hood. The rear sides? Backsides? At the back
of the hood but at the sides? Hope you catch my drift, pardner.

Note to Rich: think about if maybe there is
>some way you could use a duct in the hood to feed the brakes?

No. The ducts under the valence work just fine-- they are just a little
vulnerable to ground clearance problems. But they lead straight into the
brakes.  Maybe next they could fab up a lower valence panel with bigger
intercooler openings and some built-in brake duct scoops.

But thanks for thinking of me.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!

>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:54:35 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply

I catch your drift like i can catch a airborn elephant. Re-describe what
you mean using "side near windshield" and "side near front fascia" or
something...allthough i believe i get what your saying since i know where
the vent. system pulls air.

As for the bigger front openingss...check out www.spoilers.com. As
you prolly know i just got their front put on my car. Lots more room for
air, although their certainly becomes a opinion of taste.

Gavin

>>> Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> 04/28/99 04:50pm >>>
I am all in favor of getting a front strut bar.
As for venting heat, be sure to NOT vent heat at the back center of the
hood -- that's the fresh air inlet for our ventilation system. Instead,
vent at the side rear of the hood. The rear sides? Backsides? At the
back
of the hood but at the sides? Hope you catch my drift, pardner.

Note to Rich: think about if maybe there is
>some way you could use a duct in the hood to feed the brakes?

No. The ducts under the valence work just fine-- they are just a little
vulnerable to ground clearance problems. But they lead straight into the
brakes.  Maybe next they could fab up a lower valence panel with bigger
intercooler openings and some built-in brake duct scoops.

But thanks for thinking of me.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!

>

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:01:57 PDT
From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

>other good ways to vent heat. Note to Rich: think about if maybe
there is
>some way you could use a duct in the hood to feed the brakes?
>
>I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air to the
filter on the
>passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity. The maybe to
>much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the brakes?
snip

Appreciate the offer to to all the legwork but...first impression is
that this is going to be a $1,000+ hood based on the thunderbird hood
they fabricated w/o all the extra scoops and ducts.
I'm curious about the interest in a hood at this cost and would hate
for you to do all the work just to end up with a wicked hood that no
one could afford.
Thanks,
Mike

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:11:10 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: brakes; Dragstrip Outing Weds!

From what I have been informed Water Cooled Brakes are the most idea
brake system. Balanced brakes are used heavily in touring cars mainly to
increase the cooling of the rotor by using two seperate smaller calipers
and pads than one huge 8 piston caliper system. Water cooled Brakes
would seem the best route, but it requires a return fluid lines, water
cooler, and a pump system to make the system work. Another alternative
would be to have a brake fluid recirculation system with a cooler that
would function primarily the same  to cool the brake fluid off. I heard
the most advanced brake system available would be a carbon brake system
that would roughly fall $10K range and up. But has been outlawed in many
classes for the stopping power that it offers.
The $2200 would be for one caliper without the pump and cooler seperate,
not including the rotors, brackets which would probably run into the 8K
or so for the entire front kit.
As for the rear brake system you can't utilize the front 12" rotor from
the big brake kit since you have to take into account for the rear drum
and how the bell would have to accomodate this that is why you would
need to fabricate something new. But the pricing isn't that steep at
list price of around $2600 for a race version w/o parking brake 4 POT,
and $2800 for a streetlegal version with parking brake 2 POT.
These are approximate pricing since no one has actually said they wanted
one for me to get a FINAL price on it.
I have looked into Alcon brakes, and from what I can tell Alcon's have
really no special advantages over the AP except for a temperture sticker
on the caliper which tells you temperature of the caliper. But I have
seen gauges in Japan which can be used to monitor brake pad temperature
from within the vehicle. I'm not sure if anyone offers this within the
US yet though.
The maximum size I seem to be able to get the front rotors is in a
massive 15" for the front but I have heard that 14" is pretty much
enough already for us.

As always if I can find enough people which I usually can't seem to
find, I can provide a discount one these kits.
Those people who have done group orders, know what I'm talking about ;)



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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:08:50 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply

Hmm...i don't see where they did the work on a thunderbird? I only see a
caprice and impala hood under "Custom products"...but anyways. Well
the hood could be significantly less if it were made out of fiber...and i
believe with a group purchase we could still have carbon fiber pretty
cheap.

Hope to hear more feedback.

Gavin

>>> "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com> 04/28/99 05:01pm >>>
Appreciate the offer to to all the legwork but...first impression is
that this is going to be a $1,000+ hood based on the thunderbird hood
they fabricated w/o all the extra scoops and ducts.
I'm curious about the interest in a hood at this cost and would hate
for you to do all the work just to end up with a wicked hood that no
one could afford.
Thanks,
Mike

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Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:09:39 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS light revisited

Ken,

Check out this URL for TSBs:

http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/stealth1.html

Regards,
Lynn

Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Oskar wrote:
> The most useful response was from Mike Klassen:
> "I just looked up the TSB's at all data, what do you suppose this one
> says?
>
> 080293 JAN 93       Supplemental Restraint Diagnostic Code Erase
> Function "
>
> Does anyone have access to the full document?
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:13:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...

> I told him we would want a ram air effect ...

This will only help on NA cars. Ours will not gain of the ram air effect in any
way and at low speeds the effect is too small to help eliminating soem lag
between shifts.

> I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air to the filter on the
> passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity. The maybe to
> much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the brakes?

Hood to the brakes ? I doubt that there is enough space for sumething like this.

$1000 for a hood ?? Ouch. $600 maybe $750 for a perfect design and manufacturing
is the most I'd pay. But the thing is maybe not shippable to Europe :(

Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:25:15 -0400
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Question on  factory parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BE919C.1479B9C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was wondering if anyone has ordered parts through Tallahassee =
Mitsubishi?  I put in a price quote a few weeks ago and have heard =
nothing.  Any other info on Dealers offering a discount on parts would =
be greatly appreciated.  Have my 93 VR4 on a lift an am awaiting for my =
clutch.(Group purchased)  Has anyone received word on shipping time?  =
Accelerated Accessories have yet to respond to me on my questions, I was =
told a few weeks and it has been well over that now. So I'm stuck =
waiting :(

Thanks,
Andy
93 VR4

Please respond via e-mail thanks

- ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BE919C.1479B9C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was wondering if anyone has =
ordered parts=20
through Tallahassee Mitsubishi?&nbsp; I put in a price quote a few weeks =
ago and=20
have heard nothing.&nbsp; Any other info on Dealers offering a discount =
on parts=20
would be greatly appreciated.&nbsp; Have my 93 VR4 on a lift an am =
awaiting for=20
my clutch.(Group purchased)&nbsp; Has anyone received word on shipping=20
time?&nbsp; Accelerated Accessories have yet to respond to me on my =
questions, I=20
was told a few weeks and it has been well over that now. So I'm stuck =
waiting=20
:(</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andy</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>93 VR4</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Please respond via e-mail =
thanks</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0044_01BE919C.1479B9C0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:43:20 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on  factory parts

> Have my 93 VR4 on a lift an am awaiting for my clutch.(Group purchased)  Has
> anyone received word on shipping time?

If you have any question on the GP why not asking me :) I sent an email last
week to all participants stating the clutchesshould be shipped mid May as
supposed.

For factory parts try :

Dave Daniels (DSMDealer@aol.com)
Conicelli Mitsubishi
(800) 892-8994

They answered me very quick and have good prices.
As for a test I just ordered two hood scoops that I will work on for venting the
hot air out.

// Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:44:17 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...

I think $100 is way too high.  But in his design he should make an area for
a front strut brace!!!!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 5:14 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...

> I told him we would want a ram air effect ...

This will only help on NA cars. Ours will not gain of the
ram air effect in any
way and at low speeds the effect is too small to help
eliminating soem lag
between shifts.

> I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air
to the filter on the
> passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity.
The maybe to
> much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the
brakes?

Hood to the brakes ? I doubt that there is enough space for
sumething like this.

$1000 for a hood ?? Ouch. $600 maybe $750 for a perfect
design and manufacturing
is the most I'd pay. But the thing is maybe not shippable to
Europe :(

Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:49:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

- --- Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com> wrote:

>  Anyone if Southern Cali? If not I MAY be able
> to send out my hood
> in a couple weeks while it is getting some
> performance work done.

Well, I'm in s. cal.. 909 shouldnt be that far from me.. but the cost
seem kinda high for me.. i kinda just wana modify the stock hood with
an air scoop for the K&N and some slots in the rear to vent hot air..
but if people want to donate to the Starving Student Fund please give
me an email! =)

George

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:45:37 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...

Sorry meant $1000

-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua [mailto:joshua@princelaw.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 5:44 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...

I think $100 is way too high.  But in his design he should
make an area for
a front strut brace!!!!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 5:14 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood
manufactor...

> I told him we would want a ram air effect
...

This will only help on NA cars. Ours will
not gain of the
ram air effect in any
way and at low speeds the effect is too
small to help
eliminating soem lag
between shifts.

> I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts
to feed cool air
to the filter on the
> passenger side and then one of the other
for uniformity.
The maybe to
> much smaller scoops for straight ducts to
feed to the
brakes?

Hood to the brakes ? I doubt that there is
enough space for
sumething like this.

$1000 for a hood ?? Ouch. $600 maybe $750
for a perfect
design and manufacturing
is the most I'd pay. But the thing is maybe
not shippable to
Europe :(

Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:15:15 EDT
From: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too

In a message dated 4/28/99 4:49:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
amkreadgto@yahoo.com writes:

<< i kinda just wana modify the stock hood with
 an air scoop for the K&N  >>

yeh.. that's what i'm looking at.. also.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:37:47 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply

At 04:54 PM 4/28/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I catch your drift like i can catch a airborn elephant. Re-describe what
>you mean using "side near windshield" and "side near front fascia" or
>something...allthough i believe i get what your saying since i know where
>the vent. system pulls air.

If you know where the vent system pulls air, just don't exhaust underhood
heat there.
I don't care where you put the outlets, just not over the air conditioning
intake.

>
>As for the bigger front openingss...check out www.spoilers.com  . As
>you prolly know i just got their front put on my car. Lots more room for
>air, although their certainly becomes a opinion of taste.

Looks OK. I don't want to spend $1400 on better brake ducts, though. I
druther spend $1400 on some Porsche Big Red calipers.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:42:07 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor... -Reply

Let me rephrase. It doesn't have to be "RAM-AIR" exactly, but have the
ducts in place should allow someone creative to do either.

What i meant by "ram air" ducts was ducts simply to flow fresh cooler air
straight to the filter, which would undoubtely have benefits.

Gavin

>>> "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch> 04/28/99 05:13pm >>>
This will only help on NA cars. Ours will not gain of the ram air effect in
any
way and at low speeds the effect is too small to help eliminating soem
lag
between shifts.

> I'm thinking maybe to large ram air ducts to feed cool air to the filter on
the
> passenger side and then one of the other for uniformity. The maybe to
> much smaller scoops for straight ducts to feed to the brakes?

Hood to the brakes ? I doubt that there is enough space for sumething
like this.

$1000 for a hood ?? Ouch. $600 maybe $750 for a perfect design and
manufacturing
is the most I'd pay. But the thing is maybe not shippable to Europe :(

Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:53:11 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cooler airflow

Is it more efficient to cool the already charged air, or the intake air?
It's been awhile since I've studied physics.  Couldn't we achieve the same
effect of bringing ambient air to the intake by making the intercoolers more
efficient?  If not, why not have a smaller intercooler to allow for ducting
to the air intake?

Michael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:37:52 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer? -Reply

> > Anyone know how the Blitz FATT (Full Auto Turbo Timer) works?
>
> Read my last post about the Blitz Timer :)

Actually that triggered my question.

> Dunno the FATT but my Blitz Dual Timer does have a boost
> sensor as it is also a
> boost gauge.

The FATT just uses the harness to plug into the ignition, plus the safeties
(shift lock, parking brake & speed sensor).  Too bad I can't read Japanese
or I'd just look at the directions.

Michael


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:43:59 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply

Perhaps your onto something though. Maybe we could have this guy just
make scoops or something...may get tricky attention carbon fiber to
metal, but i have no idea.

Anyone?

Gavin

>>> George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com> 04/28/99 05:49pm >>>
Well, I'm in s. cal.. 909 shouldnt be that far from me.. but the cost
seem kinda high for me.. i kinda just wana modify the stock hood with
an air scoop for the K&N and some slots in the rear to vent hot air..
but if people want to donate to the Starving Student Fund please give
me an email! =)

George

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:03:30 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cooler airflow

Won't cooler air before the turbine increase the turbines efficiency as it can only spin
so much, and denser air in=more compressed air out.

After the turbine the amount of airflow has already been determined you will just casue
the intake charge to be more dense, but not increase the total volume?


Michael Dorsey wrote:

> Is it more efficient to cool the already charged air, or the intake air?
> It's been awhile since I've studied physics.  Couldn't we achieve the same
> effect of bringing ambient air to the intake by making the intercoolers more
> efficient?  If not, why not have a smaller intercooler to allow for ducting
> to the air intake?
>
> Michael
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:20:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service

Gavin and all,
   I had not called them but was just passing
information on from a Jeep source.  They are on the
east coast and in Bob Fontana's backyard no less.
Both techhoods and Bob F. are in Fl.  It was just a
thought since the consensus of ppl were leaning toward
a fiberglass hood at a decent price.


===
- -Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:23:03 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies when braking.  The
rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would shimmy....Any idea's?
Thanks
Joshua 
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:45:21 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Found a hood manufactor...brakes stuff too -Reply -Reply

The front fascia alone will only set you back around $400. If you have a
3000gt VR-4 the sides already look good, and IMHO that spoiler is about
as butt-ugly as it gets.

Gavin

>>> Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> 04/28/99 06:37pm >>>
Looks OK. I don't want to spend $1400 on better brake ducts, though. I
druther spend $1400 on some Porsche Big Red calipers.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:06:04 -0400
From: "Micheal A. Whelan" <mwhelan@pdtech.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service

Looking for Fiber Glass or Carbon fiber hood try sending an e-mail to GTPro.
The address is thegtalley@email.msn.com.  They offer a discount to 3SI
members.  Price for glass around $650 and Carbon fiber about $120
additional.....Mike

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 7:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service


> Gavin and all,
>    I had not called them but was just passing
> information on from a Jeep source.  They are on the
> east coast and in Bob Fontana's backyard no less.
> Both techhoods and Bob F. are in Fl.  It was just a
> thought since the consensus of ppl were leaning toward
> a fiberglass hood at a decent price.
>
>
> ===
> -Frank-
>                                     "JEEPers"
>      EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
>      http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>      http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:11:48 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service

But that is without any air inlet and or room for a strut brace...all that
is more and I think that is a lil steep.

-----Original Message-----
From: Micheal A. Whelan [mailto:mwhelan@pdtech.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 8:06 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service

Looking for Fiber Glass or Carbon fiber hood try sending an
e-mail to GTPro.
The address is thegtalley@email.msn.com.  They offer a
discount to 3SI
members.  Price for glass around $650 and Carbon fiber about
$120
additional.....Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 7:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: techhoods.com and bad service


> Gavin and all,
>    I had not called them but was just passing
> information on from a Jeep source.  They are on the
> east coast and in Bob Fontana's backyard no less.
> Both techhoods and Bob F. are in Fl.  It was just a
> thought since the consensus of ppl were leaning toward
> a fiberglass hood at a decent price.
>
>
> ===
> -Frank-
>                                     "JEEPers"
>      EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
>      http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>      http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:17:23 PDT
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

The shimmy does not come just from the braking, check the balance of
the wheel, the rim could be warped, the rubber out of round or front
suspension needs work.

Things to look at.

Eric



>From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
>Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:23:03 -0400
>
>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies when
braking.  The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would shimmy....Any
idea's?
>Thanks
>Joshua 
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:38:36 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

>The shimmy does not come just from the braking, check the balance of
>the wheel, the rim could be warped, the rubber out of round or front
>suspension needs work.


My 93 TT shudders when stopping hard from higher speeds [100 +].
At lower speeds and lesser braking forces there is no noticeable
shimmy.

                 Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:38:51 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question

Joshua wrote:
>
> On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies when braking.  The
> rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would shimmy....Any idea's?

This sounds like the typical warped rotor syndrom.  Do you feel the
shimmy in the steering wheel and brake pedal?
- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:38:37 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on  factory parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0192_01BE91C7.DB75C340
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Andy and others,
I thought everyone in the group purchase was aware that RPS will not be =
shipping the clutches until mid May. Sorry Andy if you were not made =
aware of this. BTW we sell Mitsu factory parts at a discount similar to =
Tall.=20
Thanks,
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Andy Carberry <acarberry@snet.net>
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 5:26 PM
    Subject: Team3S: Question on factory parts
   =20
   =20
    I was wondering if anyone has ordered parts through Tallahassee =
Mitsubishi?  I put in a price quote a few weeks ago and have heard =
nothing.  Any other info on Dealers offering a discount on parts would =
be greatly appreciated.  Have my 93 VR4 on a lift an am awaiting for my =
clutch.(Group purchased)  Has anyone received word on shipping time?  =
Accelerated Accessories have yet to respond to me on my questions, I was =
told a few weeks and it has been well over that now. So I'm stuck =
waiting :(
    =20
    Thanks,
    Andy
    93 VR4
    =20
    Please respond via e-mail thanks

- ------=_NextPart_000_0192_01BE91C7.DB75C340
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Andy and others,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>I thought =
everyone in the=20
group purchase was aware that RPS will not be shipping the clutches =
until mid=20
May. Sorry Andy if you were not made aware of this. BTW we sell Mitsu =
factory=20
parts at a discount similar to Tall. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Frank</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.AcceleratedAccessories.com">www.AcceleratedAccessories=
.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Andy Carberry &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:acarberry@snet.net">acarberry@snet.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Wednesday, April 28, 1999 5:26 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Team3S: =
Question on=20
    factory parts<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was wondering if anyone has =
ordered parts=20
    through Tallahassee Mitsubishi?&nbsp; I put in a price quote a few =
weeks ago=20
    and have heard nothing.&nbsp; Any other info on Dealers offering a =
discount=20
    on parts would be greatly appreciated.&nbsp; Have my 93 VR4 on a =
lift an am=20
    awaiting for my clutch.(Group purchased)&nbsp; Has anyone received =
word on=20
    shipping time?&nbsp; Accelerated Accessories have yet to respond to =
me on my=20
    questions, I was told a few weeks and it has been well over that =
now. So I'm=20
    stuck waiting :(</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Andy</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>93 VR4</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Please respond via e-mail=20
thanks</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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