--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #164
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Tuesday, April 27 1999 Volume 01
: Number
164
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Apr 1999 19:37:59 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electronic vs Mechanical AWD and an AWS question
Are there any
cars out there with Electronically controlled
Transfer
case/differentials? If so what would be the advantages of that
sort of
system, disadvantages.
My other question is reguarding the
AWS. I was driving the VR-4 out to
a friends cabin about a year ago, on
a dirt road. I noticed that as
soon as I was going fast enough for the
AWS to kick in the car was
completely out of control. Is it possible to
turn off the AWS, or is
more likely that I was just going faster, and that
was the result. It
felt like it instantly changed from in excellent
control to almost none
at all.
- --
Andrew
Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Connections, Inc.
OTC
BB: GLCO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:20:50 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: RSRs
installed
thanks Mike@Altered Atmoshere. the VR4 can now park
w/pride next to the
Supra (the canyons are gone!!! :-) however the
steering feels a little
loose now, will an alignment solve this? no
alignment done
yet.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 11:47:08 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Stillen/AP brakes
RPM Motorsports wrote:
> AP has 14" kit
available for 3000GT/Stealth
> Turbo; REQUIRES 18 inch rims. Kits
available by AP for turbo
> cars:
> 12.2" AP Racing One Piece 6
POT
> 13" AP Racing Two Piece 6 POT
> 14" AP Racing Two Piece 6
POT
> All available kit form, with Fluid, Stainless lines, pads,
bracket
> Also available is Greddy Alcon Brake system. But expect pricing
to be
> around $4000-$5000 for this kit.
Henry:
What is cost
of each above AP kit NOW? What is so great about the
Greddy/Alcon Brake
System (never heard of it), why so much more,
is it worth it, is it ANY
better than the AP 14" kit?
Do you know what pads for AP 6 piston cost?
In Pegasus catalog, the
'AP 6 pot 18mm thick' pads are like $100/set + more
than almost any
other brand ($280-380)
Jack T.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 08:56:51 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
AP Brakes for BTCC
I was looking at a Racing program yesterday and they
tested the BTCC/STCC Nissan Primera.
They talked allot about the brakes
from AP, they are a 6 pot design and the callipers are WATERCOOLED !!!
BTW The brakes costed 8.500$ but that included 1 set of pads
:)
/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:35:52 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject:
Team3S: brake upgrades
I recently upgraded my front rotors to powerslots,
which I like although
I haven't given them much serios punishment yet.
I'd like to install
braided steel brake hoses, and I was wondering what a
good source would
be. Are there any tradeoffs other than extra firmness
of the pedal when
going with steel hoses?
Also, I recently called
speed bleeder inc. to inquire on a set of
bleeders, and they said that their
application list for the stealth was
incorrect and they didn't know the right
size. Does anyone know the
correct bleeder screw size, and have you
tried speed bleeders?
Dave
'91 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 02:42:39 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: brake
upgrades
normally 10mm x 1 which is what i have on my car at all
corners
I've heard on some TT cars it could be 7mm in the rears. Will
someone
confirm which years/models
Best bet would be to buy a pair of 10mm
x 1 from pep boys for the fronts,
pull of the rears and see if they're
smaller. If so, they're probably 7mm.
Is speed bleeder a company? The ones i
have are from Russell and are also
called speed bleeders, which i picked up
from pep boys. Work great by the
way. I've bled the system 3 times in the
last year, and never had any
problems doing it.
Omar
92
r/t
> Also, I recently called speed bleeder inc. to inquire on a set
of
> bleeders, and they said that their application list for the stealth
was
> incorrect and they didn't know the right size. Does anyone
know the
> correct bleeder screw size, and have you tried speed
bleeders?
>
> Dave
> '91 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 04:19:17 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 92 VR4
with a 92 GTO engine HELP!!
I have a 1992 VR4 california car with
california ECU and emissions. I
recently had a GTO
engine from
Japan installed. The car ran good for a month, then I had a
problem
with the
injectors. I replaced the injectors. Since then, my car
has idled extremely
rough, and the the exhaust doesn't flow, it pulses like
a heartbeat!! Also,
the exhaust only comes out the left pipe half the
time. I can hear the
valves tinging, the exhaust pops and backfires,
and the turbos aren't allowed
full boost, they keep cutting my
horsepower out. Can someone help??? Also,
I need some help finding out
if the GTO engine has the same injectors,
ignition timing, and cam
timing. I need some specs on this engine. Can
someone help me, I
don't know what to do, my car has been in the shop for
almost a
year!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 02:31:53 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: brake upgrades
yeah, http://www.speedbleeder.com. I
didn't know a similar product was available
retail, thanks.
Omar Malik
wrote:
> normally 10mm x 1 which is what i have on my car at all
corners
> I've heard on some TT cars it could be 7mm in the rears. Will
someone
> confirm which years/models
> Best bet would be to buy a
pair of 10mm x 1 from pep boys for the fronts,
> pull of the rears and see
if they're smaller. If so, they're probably 7mm.
> Is speed bleeder a
company? The ones i have are from Russell and are also
> called speed
bleeders, which i picked up from pep boys. Work great by the
> way. I've
bled the system 3 times in the last year, and never had any
> problems
doing it.
>
> Omar
> 92 r/t
>
> > Also, I
recently called speed bleeder inc. to inquire on a set of
> > bleeders,
and they said that their application list for the stealth was
> >
incorrect and they didn't know the right size. Does anyone know
the
> > correct bleeder screw size, and have you tried speed
bleeders?
> >
> > Dave
> > '91 R/T TT
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 05:36:53 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake upgrades
At 12:35 AM 4/27/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>
>I recently upgraded my front rotors to powerslots, which I
like although
>I haven't given them much serios punishment yet.
Having broken two of them at open track events, I suggest you stick
to
street and autocross events, where they won't get too hot.
Rich/old
poop/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 04:26:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
99 VR-4 Review in Turbo
Short review of the last sports car. 99 vr-4
white.
They stated something along the lines of better than
expected
handling and 300zx is comparable to the VR-4
and the other sports cars lacked
lower rung models to
supplement and support the VR-4. I believe it was
in
the June 99 issue with a Top Fuel Honda hatchB.
===
-
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 07:54:25 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Stillen/AP brakes
I'm not quite sure why the market in
Japan has just recently floated
over to the Alcon brakes and that Greddy has
chosen to be exclusive
importers of Alcon now. But here's alcon's
website to look it up
http://www.taaget.co.uk/news/newfrm01.htm
I'm
trying to get some more information about Alcon's now. But for the
most part,
I would assume that Alcon is pricey name similar to HKS
products and that the
kit is completely custom for our cars.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 08:59:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com
Subject:
Team3S: No Boost
I am in need of help regarding my '92 Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo. I had a remanufactured long block installed 1,700 miles ago.
When I
received the car back from the dealer I noticed that it was very sluggish, but I
attributed that to the newness and
lack of being broken in. After the 500 mi
service and oil change the car ran much better but I still took it easy.
The problem is that the boost never goes above 2lbs. The gauge needle
stays low then suddenly jumps to "0". No matter how hard
I push it. The car
is slow. It seems like the turbos begin to spool then flatten out. The dealer
and tech can't figure out the
problem. They replaced the wastegate solenoid
and checked the boost gage, no help. They seem at thier wits end.
Can
anyone help?
RAM
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 10:35:02 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake upgrades
1992 Stealth TT has 7mm in rear. Built
date: January 1992.
It does however has the 25 spline transmission!
:)
Jose
Omar Malik wrote:
>
> normally 10mm x
1 which is what i have on my car at all corners
> I've heard on some TT
cars it could be 7mm in the rears. Will someone
> confirm which
years/models?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:53:45 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
> 1. My
assumption is that the boost controller, is just detecting and
> applying
pressure from the hoses attached to it, in which case I would be
> better
off with smaller diameter hose for a quicker response, versus a
> larger
hose for more flow. Should I go for a larger or smaller
diameter?
Your assumption is not fully correct as the DSBC is not like
other BCs. The
"boost detecting" hose is the small plastic tube delivered
with the Blitz stuff
that runs from the intake plenum to the controller in
the passenger compartment.
I used a larger dia hose as the additional boost
meter needs that. The "applying
pressure" hoses are the larger hoses
connected to the solenoid valves from the
DSBC mounted in your engine
compartment. Use the delivered hose as well as a
coupler to a smaller size
for the y-pipe connection.
> 2. There is a 4 way split on the
original hose to the Y-pipe.
> a.
Y-Pipe
> b. Original Wastegate
solenoid
> c & d. Turbos???
c
& d are rear/fron wastegate actuators
> If
my assumptions are correct, can I run a hose from each of the turbos
> to
a Y next to the DSBC, since I no longer need the Y-Pipe connection or
>
original solenoid?
Yes, but this is already there and the line to the
front WG is a hard pipe. What
you'd gain in lenght to the front turbos you'd
loose for the rear turbo
connection. Just place the solenoid box close to the
rear or front just where
you have place enough and where you can use as short
as possible hoses.
> 3. According to my 98 Service Manual
(15-27-II) the factory wastegate
> should actuate at 6.68psi and may be
damaged at more than 8.53psi. Will it
> handle the increased
pressure, or should I replace the wastegate.
Of course, you don't mean to
replace the wastegate but the wastegate actuator :)
But what wastegate
actuator would you like to get ? It is possible that the
actuators can cause
to leak over a longer period but I've not seen an already
broken
one.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:48:51 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 92 VR4 with a 92 GTO engine HELP!!
> I have a 1992 VR4
california car with california ECU and emissions. I
> recently had a
GTO engine from Japan installed. The car ran good for a
> month,
then I had a problem with the injectors. I replaced the
injectors.
First, what problem have you had have with the injectors and
why did you
replaced them ?
> Since then, my car has idled
extremely rough, and the the exhaust doesn't
> flow, it pulses like a
heartbeat!!
This could mean that some cyls. are either not filled with
gas or no ignition on
this. Also the timing could be totally off.
>
Also, the exhaust only comes out the left pipe half the
time.
Normal.
> I can hear the valves tinging
Also
somewhat normal but has nothing to do with your problem.
> I need some
help finding out if the GTO engine has the same injectors,
Injectors are
the same for this engine (even the EU cars have no sign of any
bigger
injectors)
> ignition timing, and cam timing. I need some
specs on this engine.
There is no sign of any timings that have been
changed on the engine on any
year. The California cars had more O2 sensors
and other small changings to be
carb approved for Cal. and maybe the Cal.ECU
(if there is any specific) needs
the input of these sensors.
But you
said that it runned well for a month and then went south. If really
the
injectors were dead I'm pretty sure something else around them is in
bad
condition too. This could be the fuel filter, pump, pressure regulator,
pump
resistor, injector resistors, etc. Also a badX-Mozilla-Status: 0009he
cause.
The most important thing is that a mitsu dealer with a MUT tester
can check
everything out on the car. Switching each injector on/off helps a
lot as well as
seeing the MAS information. For specific engine information,
try to get a manual
and backup CD.
Good luck,
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
Can
> someone help me, I
don't know what to do, my car has been in the shop for
> almost a
year!!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:49:22 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
> 1. My
assumption is that the boost controller, is just detecting and
> applying
pressure from the hoses attached to it, in which case I would be
> better
off with smaller diameter hose for a quicker response, versus a
> larger
hose for more flow. Should I go for a larger or smaller
diameter?
Your assumption is not fully correct as the DSBC is not like
other BCs. The
"boost detecting" hose is the small plastic tube delivered
with the Blitz stuff
that runs from the intake plenum to the controller in
the passenger compartment.
I used a larger dia hose as the additional boost
meter needs that. The "applying
pressure" hoses are the larger hoses
connected to the solenoid valves from the
DSBC mounted in your engine
compartment. Use the delivered hose as well as a
coupler to a smaller size
for the y-pipe connection.
> 2. There is a 4 way split on the
original hose to the Y-pipe.
> a.
Y-Pipe
> b. Original Wastegate
solenoid
> c & d. Turbos???
c
& d are rear/fron wastegate actuators
> If
my assumptions are correct, can I run a hose from each of the turbos
> to
a Y next to the DSBC, since I no longer need the Y-Pipe connection or
>
original solenoid?
Yes, but this is already there and the line to the
front WG is a hard pipe. What
you'd gain in lenght to the front turbos you'd
loose for the rear turbo
connection. Just place the solenoid box close to the
rear or front just where
you have place enough and where you can use as short
as possible hoses.
> 3. According to my 98 Service Manual
(15-27-II) the factory wastegate
> should actuate at 6.68psi and may be
damaged at more than 8.53psi. Will it
> handle the increased
pressure, or should I replace the wastegate.
Of course, you don't mean to
replace the wastegate but the wastegate actuator :)
But what wastegate
actuator would you like to get ? It is possible that the
actuators can cause
to leak over a longer period but I've not seen an already
broken
one.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 09:47:46 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: No Boost
RAM;
Check all of your small vacuum hoses and
vacuum connections for leaks, cracks, splits,
etc.
Best
Darc
snip
> The problem is that the
boost never goes above 2lbs. The gauge needle stays low then suddenly jumps to
"0". No matter how hard
> I push it. The car is slow. It seems like the
turbos begin to spool then flatten out. The dealer and tech can't figure out
the
> problem. They replaced the wastegate solenoid and checked the boost
gage, no help. They seem at thier wits end.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:52:38 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Erebuni Kit
Well I got the car back Sat. (that was scary...my girlfriend
had to drive
the Mystique back following me out of New York and it was her
first time
driving stick!! You have NEVER seen NY'ers that pissed...) The
front
came out great. Snug fit, lines up well, used 100% factory
mounting
points, and retained the active aero. On top of that, the active
aero looks
cooler then ever. If you go to www.spoilers.com you will see that
the
middle bottom of the new front fasci sorta comes/indents up for a
couple
feet. The words "active aero" come down and fill that exact
spot
PERFECTLY. Looks awesome...
I'll get pictures up and start
experimenting with performance increases,
(ducts), ASAP. Incidentally once it
is painted Erebuni is going to get the
car into Street Sport magazine.
Woohoo...bonified rice boy now!
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:06:33 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: aluminum y-pipe
Anyone know of someone building aluminum y-pipes
for the Twin Turbo?
I have a friend looking for
one.
Thanks
> Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:53:49 -0700
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: No Boost
When I had that problem I had a loose Y pipe
connection...
> > The problem is that the boost never goes above
2lbs. The gauge needle
stays low then suddenly jumps to "0". No matter how
hard
> > I push it. The car is slow. It seems like the turbos begin to
spool then
flatten out. The dealer and tech can't figure out the
> >
problem
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:59:38 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions about hoses for boost controller
Roger,
Why do we often
(but not always) see duplicates of your responses?
Roger Gerl
wrote:
>
> > 1. My assumption is that the boost
controller, is just detecting and
> > applying pressure from the hoses
attached to it, in which case I would be
> > better off with smaller
diameter hose for a quicker response, versus a
> > larger hose for more
flow. Should I go for a larger or smaller diameter?
>
> Your
assumption is not fully correct as the DSBC is not like other BCs. The
>
"boost detecting" hose is the small plastic tube delivered with the Blitz
stuff
> that runs from the intake plenum to the controller in the
passenger compartment.
> I used a larger dia hose as the additional boost
meter needs that. The "applying
> pressure" hoses are the larger hoses
connected to the solenoid valves from the
> DSBC mounted in your engine
compartment. Use the delivered hose as well as a
> coupler to a smaller
size for the y-pipe connection.
> etc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:05:10 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Stillen/AP brakes
I got some information back regarding
the brake kits.
As for the AP Kits, my pricing isn't quite as cheap Stillen's
pricing,
but here it goes, the following are all AP calipers
14" Two Piece
6 POT $4000
13" Two Piece 6 POT $3500
12.2" One Piece 6 POT $2750
These
all include pad's Hawk HPS Pads, along with stainless steel lines,
DOT4
fluid
I've also located a possible source for a big brake kit for the rear
of
our cars utilizing a 12.4" 2 Piece AP Two POT for the street. While
if
your not planning to use the handbrake's, a 6 POT AP. This can also
be
utilized witha Double Master Cylinder even though it still will
work
with the factory unit.
The main difference is basically the Handbrake
the problem with the drum
in the rear.
Pricing for the Rear Kit would
roughly be around $2500 for the race
version and a bit more for the street
legal version.
I can offer a group purchase price for these kits, if you
guys can get
more than 4 kits together.
These kits can be cross
drilled/slotted or left alone.
A Balanced Brake kit could be available
but I doubt many customers would
want it, where you would utilize two smaller
4 piston calipers on the
front and back of the front rotor. It would roughly
be 25mm and 30 mm
bores. This is rather pricey and is mainly for
touring.
Then there is finally a 6 POT Liquid Cooled AP Caliper available
for the
car, but this is rather custom and your expecting to pay
roughly $2200
just for the caliper.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:06:31 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
> The most
recent being the boost controller. I've got a few of
> questions
about the hoses going to the boost controller. I'm
> shortening
excessive hose length, and removing hoses that are
> no longer
necessary.
Where did you install the DSBC? One thing I did was to
ask the
list where was a good spot. After a few responses from
people
(and a couple to pictures to and from Mikael Akesson), I decided
on
the spot behind the battery, up against the firewall.
This has resulted in
very short (approx 20cm) hose lengths. As
for your other
questions... They are a little techo for me
:)
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:04:22 -0700
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
I might have been
a witness to his last one...I also hit reply to the same
message that he did
and the list came up twice as a recipient... I happened
to notice it and
deleted one of them...I think you get it more often when
you hit reply
all...
- -Bill
> Roger,
>
> Why do we often (but
not always) see duplicates of your responses?
>
> Roger Gerl
wrote:
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:14:24 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: running
rich
Well I just got off the phone with John at rc engineering. I had
sent him my
6 550cc injectors because two cylinders were running extremely
rich. He just
told me all 6 are fine and must be another problem. I am
clueless on what
the other problem would be??? Compression is fine. I was
running the bcpr7es
plugs and now switched to the 6 series but still that
would not cause 2
cylinders to run rich. Compression is fine oh and these two
injectors where
not on the same location of the fuel rail one was on the rear
bank and one
in the front. Could this be a vpc problem or a computer problem
because I
did by a g-force upgrade from hennessee motorsports at the same
time as the
vpc??? Oh and no vacume leaks according to the boost gauge.
:(
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 13:42:43 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: running rich
Peter...
Hmmmm, very interesting. I'm
also experiencing a extreme rich condition
after a G-force ECU upgrade. I
DIDN'T add a VPC, so we "might" be able to
eliminate that. Compare your mods
with the list in my signature. Are we
talking the same basic setup? Robert
(at G-force) has been rather adamant
that this isn't a programming problem
(and he's done one set of leaner
programs already), but the turbos, fuel
pump, and RC 560 injectors all came
from another car that was running
perfectly. The only variable (in my case)
seems to be the ECU upgrade.
Questions...
How do you know it's two specific injectors? Do you have
actual air/fuel
numbers? Load or no load?
I'm having to buy a $300
exhaust gas analyzer to get to the bottom of this.
:-(
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Palamara, Peter [mailto:pala@gwl.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 27,
1999 1:14 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com';
'codsm@co.dsm.org'
Subject: Team3S:
running rich
Well I just got off the phone with John at rc engineering. I
had sent him my
6 550cc injectors because two cylinders were running
extremely rich. He just
told me all 6 are fine and must be another problem. I
am clueless on what
the other problem would be??? Compression is fine. I was
running the bcpr7es
plugs and now switched to the 6 series but still that
would not cause 2
cylinders to run rich. Compression is fine oh and these two
injectors where
not on the same location of the fuel rail one was on the rear
bank and one
in the front. Could this be a vpc problem or a computer problem
because I
did by a g-force upgrade from hennessee motorsports at the same
time as the
vpc??? Oh and no vacume leaks according to the boost gauge.
:(
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:04:15 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: running
rich
Well I found out because I was fowling plugs on those two cylinders.
The
other 4 where brown but not like the other two. There has to be some sort
of
programming problem with the vpc or g-force because I have my vpc turned
to
0 and I still only get upto a max of 700 Celsius on the egt :( I mean I
am
at 5800 ft above sealevel and I know that is part of the problem but not
all
of it. I have almost exactly the same upgrades as you except for
the
exhaust,i use a hks boost controller, and plugs gapped at 28 thous. Oh
and I
have 550cc instead of 560's. Strange huh!
92 3000 GTO MMC
500
H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Winkley [mailto:cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 27, 1999 2:43 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: running rich
Peter...
Hmmmm, very interesting. I'm
also experiencing a extreme rich condition
after a G-force ECU upgrade. I
DIDN'T add a VPC, so we "might" be able to
eliminate that. Compare your mods
with the list in my signature. Are we
talking the same basic setup? Robert
(at G-force) has been rather adamant
that this isn't a programming problem
(and he's done one set of leaner
programs already), but the turbos, fuel
pump, and RC 560 injectors all came
from another car that was running
perfectly. The only variable (in my case)
seems to be the ECU upgrade.
Questions...
How do you know it's two specific injectors? Do you have
actual air/fuel
numbers? Load or no load?
I'm having to buy a $300
exhaust gas analyzer to get to the bottom of this.
:-(
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Palamara, Peter [mailto:pala@gwl.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 27,
1999 1:14 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com';
'codsm@co.dsm.org'
Subject: Team3S:
running rich
Well I just got off the phone with John at rc engineering. I
had sent him my
6 550cc injectors because two cylinders were running
extremely rich. He just
told me all 6 are fine and must be another problem. I
am clueless on what
the other problem would be??? Compression is fine. I was
running the bcpr7es
plugs and now switched to the 6 series but still that
would not cause 2
cylinders to run rich. Compression is fine oh and these two
injectors where
not on the same location of the fuel rail one was on the rear
bank and one
in the front. Could this be a vpc problem or a computer problem
because I
did by a g-force upgrade from hennessee motorsports at the same
time as the
vpc??? Oh and no vacume leaks according to the boost gauge.
:(
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:58:47 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Porterfield rotors
I was gonna buy some new stock rotors for my
94 VR4 until I found out they
are $103 each. Sheesh, slotted or drilled
rotors are not all that much more
expensive.
Roger's brake site says
Porterfields are $70 each. I find that hard to
believe.
Anybody got a
contact phone no. or know a supplier? I went to their web
site, but (aside
from being very confusing) it has no contact information.
I picked off their
e-mail address (info@porterfieldbrake) but I suspect it
will take them
several days to respond (just a WAG).
I also recall a recent thread
reporting that Porterfield said, "What's a
Mitsubishi? (or something like
that)."
Has anyone actually used Porterfield rotors, or are they still in
development?
Here's something interesting: for race pads, Porterfield
recommends
Performance Friction pads.
Someone else has Warner rotors
on his 95 VR4, and reported good success
with 'em.
Are these different
from stock rotors? Where do you get them? How much?
Rich/old
poop/Somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:15:35 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
I mounted the DSBC
next to the K&N filter. I decided to remove original
hose from the
Y-pipe and just run the OUT from the DSBC directly to the
4-way split.
I'm using the hoses that came with the DSBC, but I believe
that running a
smaller diameter hose from the OUT of the DSBC will allow it
to control the
wastegates quicker due to the smaller volume of air that
would need to be
pressurized.
Michael
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Where did you install the DSBC? One thing I
did was to ask the
> list where was a good spot. After a few
responses from people
> (and a couple to pictures to and from Mikael
Akesson), I decided
> on the spot behind the battery, up against the
firewall.
> This has resulted in very short (approx 20cm) hose
lengths. As
> for your other questions... They are a little
techo for me :)
>
> Cheers,
> Kevin Clark
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:19:43 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Make
shift turbo timer?
Soon i will have a Blitz DSBC installed in my car.
Could i not just turn the
boost totally off for the last few minutes i'm
driving the car to accomplish
the same effect as a turbo
timer?
Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240
:).
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:29:20 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors
Ooops. I discovered that the Porterfield
e-mail address does not work.
However, in the process of checking it again on
the site, I found the
contact info.
In case anyone else is seeking
it:
Porterfield
1767 Placentia Ave. Costa Mesa, Calif.
92627
(949) 548-4470
Fax(949)548-7783
OutsideCa.(800)537-6842
E-Mail: info@porterfieldbrake (does not
work)
I know the phone number works, because I just talked to a nice
lady.
She has to fax me a form to fill out, so I can get the right
rotor.
Apparently, they differ from month to month.
Rich/old
poop/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:37:42 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Gavin...
Turning off the BC
will do nothing to cool your turbos, which is what the TT
is designed to do.
Basically, it allows you to lock your car and walk away
with the engine
running. Passing oil through the turbos at idle is what
cools them, which has
very little to do with the amount of boost you're
running when on the road. A
TT should be considered a "must" for any
turbocharged vehicle.
Of
course, the alternative is to sit in your car for 60 seconds with the
engine
at idle when you've gotten to wherever you're going.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Wallis [mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
April 27, 1999 2:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Soon i will have a Blitz DSBC installed
in my car. Could i not just turn the
boost totally off for the last few
minutes i'm driving the car to accomplish
the same effect as a turbo
timer?
Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240
:).
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:42:04 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Gavin...
BTW...just in case I
answered the wrong question...turning off the BC does
not turn off the
turbos, it merely returns the wastegate actuator
programming to
stock.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS
Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc
injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU
upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test
pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Wallis [mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
April 27, 1999 2:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Soon i will have a Blitz DSBC installed
in my car. Could i not just turn the
boost totally off for the last few
minutes i'm driving the car to accomplish
the same effect as a turbo
timer?
Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240
:).
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:42:27 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Porterfield rotors
For email to Porterfield try either of
these:
info@porterfieldbrakes.com (brakes
- plural...)
or
timg@globalpac.com (he's the " mailto " on
the website)
Forrest
- -----Original Message-----From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
|Ooops.
I discovered that the Porterfield e-mail address does not
work.
|However,
in the process of checking it again on the site, I found
the
|contact
info.
|In case anyone else is seeking it:
|
|Porterfield
|1767
Placentia Ave. Costa Mesa, Calif. 92627
|(949)
548-4470
|Fax(949)548-7783
|OutsideCa.(800)537-6842
|E-Mail:
info@porterfieldbrake (does not work)
|
|I know the phone number works,
because I just talked to a nice
lady.
|She has to fax me a form to fill
out, so I can get the right rotor.
|Apparently, they differ from month to
month.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:43:42 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Make shift turbo timer? -Reply
I understand the concept of the turbo
timer...not having to worry, lock
your car and walk away. But turning off the
boost should still accomplish
the same effect albeit without having the
luxury of driving hard until you
stop. If the boost is turned off, the turbos
should stop spinning and
creating heat which will allow oil to circulate
through them at a much
lower tempature avoiding scalding from lack of oil or
high tempature oil.
Unless your saying the oil to the turbochargers acts
differently at idle
then while driving. Which doesn't make much sense.
Because you do not
need to use a turbocharger if you run your car very
lightly and not utilize
the turbos for the last few minutes...essentially the
same effect as
turning off the boost....i think.
Someone please clear
up.
Thanks,
Gavin
>>> Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
04/27/99 05:37pm >>>
Gavin...
Turning off the BC will do
nothing to cool your turbos, which is what the
TT
is designed to do.
Basically, it allows you to lock your car and walk
away
with the engine
running. Passing oil through the turbos at idle is what
cools them, which has
very little to do with the amount of boost you're
running when on the road. A
TT should be considered a "must" for any
turbocharged vehicle.
Of
course, the alternative is to sit in your car for 60 seconds with the
engine
at idle when you've gotten to wherever you're going.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy
PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum
plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust,
GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Wallis [mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
April 27, 1999 2:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Soon i will have a Blitz DSBC installed
in my car. Could i not just turn the
boost totally off for the last few
minutes i'm driving the car to accomplish
the same effect as a turbo
timer?
Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240
:).
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:35:53 -0400
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
>Turning off the BC will do
nothing to cool your turbos, which is what the
TT
>is designed to do.
Basically, it allows you to lock your car and walk away
>with the engine
running
Hhmm, mine automatically unlocks the doors upon shutoff. If I
need to lock
the car when I park, I have to either sit there and wait for it
to shut off
after the designated time frame or manually override it and shut
it off
myself.
I think it's a safety feature designed to keep people
from locking their
keys in the car. Although unlocking after it shuts off has
its negative
features...
Robyn
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:57:31 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Make shift turbo timer?
> I understand the concept of the turbo
timer...not having to worry, lock
> your car and walk away. But turning
off the boost should still accomplish
> the same effect albeit without
having the luxury of driving hard until you
> stop. If the boost is turned
off, the turbos should stop spinning and
> creating heat which will allow
oil to circulate through them at a much
> lower tempature avoiding
scalding from lack of oil or high tempature oil.
The turbines don't stop
spinning just because you aren't under boost. The
exhaust gasses are
still spinning them, just at a slower rate which doesn't
produce boost.
When you turn the car off, they are still spinning until the
friction in the
bearings makes them come to a stop. There's no switch that
magically
makes them stop, since they are spun by the exhaust gasses.
Keeping your
foot off the gas just before getting home will definitely help
keep the temps
in the turbos down, without having to change boost levels.
Self-restraint is
just as effective (if not more so) than reducing the boost
levels.
The
boost controller only controls how much pressure the wastegate
actuators
"see". By making them see less of the actual pressure, you
produce more
boost by making the wastegates open later. If you turn off
your boost
controller, you allow the wastegate actuators to see the "real"
manifold
pressure, and they will open sooner, thereby making the turbos
produce less
boost.
I think you might be misunderstanding some of the
concepts about how the
turbo system works and how the wastegates control the
boost. You might want
to check out a book like "Maximum Boost" by Corky
Bell to get caught up on
all the terminology. It explains it all more
clearly than can be done in an
e-mail.
- -Matt
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:44:38 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Make shift turbo timer? -Reply
Oh...well i'm not saying to turn off the
Boost controller? (did i say that?
oops if i did)....i'm talking about
turning off the boost....below stock.
Gavin
>>> Chris
Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
04/27/99 05:42pm >>>
Gavin...
BTW...just in case I answered
the wrong question...turning off the BC
does
not turn off the turbos, it
merely returns the wastegate actuator
programming to stock.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy
PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum
plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust,
GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gavin Wallis [mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
April 27, 1999 2:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
Soon i will have a Blitz DSBC installed
in my car. Could i not just turn the
boost totally off for the last few
minutes i'm driving the car to accomplish
the same effect as a turbo
timer?
Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240
:).
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:09:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer?
- --- Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com> wrote:
>
> Neat...going from 450hp down to an SL's 240 :).
>
Hmmm..
is that
possible??
George
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:10:07 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: running rich
Peter;
It seems odd the the G-Force ECU
would signal just two injectors to pulse
more fuel than the other
four...Could the problem be a weak spark at those
cylinders? That would
explain the fouling and the low EGT's. I'm not sure
how you would check
it other than installing an aftermarket ignition system
and seeing if the
problem goes away.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>Well
I found out because I was fowling plugs on those two cylinders. The
>other
4 where brown but not like the other two. There has to be some
sort
of
>programming problem with the vpc or g-force because I have my
vpc turned to
>0 and I still only get upto a max of 700 Celsius on the egt
:( I mean I am
>at 5800 ft above sealevel and I know that is part of the
problem but not
all
<snip>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:16:48 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
1st Gen Hood
I've decided to look into modifying a 1st gen. hood for
improved air inlet.
Any suggenstions on where to get one in fair condition
would be greatly
appreciated.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
rtrent@nlci.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:27:02 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Inlet
air Temp. Report
It seems I've underestimated the need for better air
into our induction
system. After installing a temp. probe 2in. behind
my K&N (between K&N and
battery about 2in. down from the top of the
K&N), I was shocked to find the
air temp. was between 80 and 90 F.
The problem was that ambient was a
horsepower rich 60 F at the time.
Theres a good 20 F to be gained just by
pulling in abient
air!
Regards,
DaveT/92TT/13g/500cc/AFC/AVC/EGT/NBC
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:04:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
> I mounted the
DSBC next to the K&N filter.
Same as my (current) setup.
>
I decided to remove original hose from the Y-pipe and just run the OUT
from
> the DSBC directly to the 4-way split.
Ok ... but where is
the IN coming from ??
> I'm using the hoses that came with the DSBC,
but I believe
> that running a smaller diameter hose from the OUT of the
DSBC will allow it
> to control the wastegates quicker due to the smaller
volume of air that
> would need to be pressurized.
Oh no, just look
at the intercooler, IC piping and the y-pipe. You have (almost)
the same
pressurized air in all of these parts and therefore the smaller pipes
do not
help in this point of view. Finally it really depends on how much parts
are
connected to the vacuum lines and how much of them vent to anywhere (like
the
small valves in the DSBC box). The only important thing is that the hoses
do
not expand under pressure.
BTW, the location with about 20cm lenght
of hoses is a really good one.
Regards,
Roger
(hopefully sending
only one message)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:24:06 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Make shift turbo timer? -Reply
Ahem, why not just lift your right
foot ?
> But turning off the boost should still accomplish the same
effect albeit
> without having the luxury of driving hard until you
stop.
Your boost will still be around 0.5bars with hot oil.
>
If the boost is turned off, the turbos should stop spinning
NONONO ! Your
turbos can't stop spinning without shutting the engine off !! If
you want to
do this you MUST BYPASS the turbine wheel. Just recap how a turbo
works ;-)
You can do this by fully open the wastegates but this can only be done
with
pressure applied to the wg actuators. You can do this with an extra
pressure
reservoir, a bunch of solenoid valves and a switch and headache .... or
get a
timer for ~$100.
> Unless your saying the oil to the turbochargers
acts differently at idle
> then while driving. Which doesn't make much
sense. Because you do not
> need to use a turbocharger if you run your car
very lightly and not utilize
> the turbos for the last few
minutes...essentially the same effect as
> turning off the boost....i
think.
Ok, we know now that turning off boost is only possible with a lot
of work. The
Blitz Dual Timer calculates the time of keep the car running
after shutting it
off upon the measured boost over a period of driving. With
this the timer showed
up to 58 seconds and when just cruising around then the
time got lowered in
seconds steps down to 10 sec minimum. But the time
increases on a vacuum of
about -5hg, not yet in the boost area. Letting the
car idle for a time will give
the turbos the chance to cool down and not the
oil (little to nothing).
Therefore the oil in the turbos will then not glaze
when there is no more
pressure and flow as the case already cooled down a
little.
BTW, driving 5 minutes in the 1 bar region without going down
(typical Autobahn
situation) increased the time up to 2 min 45 sec. Almost
98% before I switch off
the car the timer shows the min of 10
seconds.
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:26:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Porterfield rotors
> Roger's brake site says Porterfields are
$70 each. I find that hard to
> believe.
That's from a message out
of the discussion. I already deleted the original mail
and this could indeed
be a typo. Please let me know if anybody has the real
pricing
information.
Thanks,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:35:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: running rich
Only a small idea. The injectors are driven with an
inline resistor (the
resistor bank at the firewall). What if the resitors are
having more tolerances
between each others than expected ? I'd measure the
resistance of each one to
find out if this injectors are maybe delivering
more fuel than the others. Just
an idea.
Also, in what cylinders have
you seen the fouled plugs ?
Finally, have you checked your fuel pressure
and is everything ok with the fuel
rail ?
Just brainstorming
:)
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:41:18 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report
> battery about 2in. down from the top
of the K&N), I was shocked to find the
> air temp. was between 80 and
90 F. The problem was that ambient was a
> horsepower rich 60 F at
the time.
Very true !
> Theres a good 20 F to be gained just
by
> pulling in abient air!
... or drawing the hot air
out.
Place the probe into the y-pip liek we did on the dyno to see how
effective the
IC works.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:56:32 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report
> air temp. was between 80 and 90
F. The problem was that ambient
> was a horsepower rich 60 F at the
time. Theres a good 20 F to be
> gained just by pulling in abient
air!
I have also done the same. It is also interesting to note
that
the temperature will climb rapidly when stopped! The
underhood
temperature climbs to between 104-140F after being parked
for
just 5 minutes! It also takes a long time for the temperature
to
go back down, so a few of you may like to change the way you
prepare for 1/4
mile events :)
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:59:28 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood
> I've decided to look into modifying a
1st gen. hood for
> improved air inlet.
I think it would be worth
looking into outlet's rather
than inlets... I feel these cars should be
getting
more than enough airflow coming from the front end
and that it is
just a matter of venting the "hot"
air out...
Cheers,
Kevin
Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:05:14 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Make shift turbo timer? -Reply -Reply
Why not just lift your right foot?
Cuz that's a pain and a nusiance i was
trying to avoid.
oops...sorry
i'd mean actually stopping the turbines...i meant more fully
opening the
wastegates to simulate the same thing as idle.
Where i lacked knowledge
was that fact that the WG actuators could not
open fully by themselves to
vent pressure. Gotcha now, and thank you.
Gavin
>>>
"R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
04/27/99 06:24pm >>>
Ahem, why not just lift your right foot
?
Your boost will still be around 0.5bars with hot oil.
NONONO ! Your
turbos can't stop spinning without shutting the engine
off !! If
you want
to do this you MUST BYPASS the turbine wheel. Just recap
how a turbo
works
;-) You can do this by fully open the wastegates but this can only
be
done
with pressure applied to the wg actuators. You can do this with an
extra
pressure reservoir, a bunch of solenoid valves and a switch
and
headache .... or
get a timer for ~$100.
> Unless your saying
the oil to the turbochargers acts differently at idle
> then while
driving. Which doesn't make much sense. Because you do
not
> need to
use a turbocharger if you run your car very lightly and not
utilize
>
the turbos for the last few minutes...essentially the same effect as
>
turning off the boost....i think.
Ok, we know now that turning off boost
is only possible with a lot of
work. The
Blitz Dual Timer calculates the
time of keep the car running after shutting
it
off upon the measured boost
over a period of driving. With this the timer
showed
up to 58 seconds and
when just cruising around then the time got
lowered in
seconds steps down
to 10 sec minimum. But the time increases on a
vacuum of
about -5hg, not
yet in the boost area. Letting the car idle for a time will
give
the
turbos the chance to cool down and not the oil (little to nothing).
Therefore
the oil in the turbos will then not glaze when there is no more
pressure and
flow as the case already cooled down a little.
BTW, driving 5 minutes in
the 1 bar region without going down (typical
Autobahn
situation) increased
the time up to 2 min 45 sec. Almost 98% before I
switch off
the car the
timer shows the min of 10 seconds.
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:09:28 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report
I've done this very same test for the past
3 days or so and found that the
temperature at the intake is 10-20F degrees
warmer, depending on the speed
of the car (amount of inlet air being brought
into the engine compartment)
I've also found that on an 80F day, turning off
the engine and leaving the
car parked allows the underhood temps to rise up
to 130F degrees. I plan to
measure the intake charge in the Y-pipe and
simultaneously just after the
turbos (before the intercoolers) next week.
This should give me a a baseline
to compare to when I upgrade the
intercoolers.
Thanks.
Dave Allison
- -----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 27, 1999 3:41 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Inlet air Temp. Report
> battery about 2in. down from
the top of the K&N), I was shocked to find
the
> air temp. was
between 80 and 90 F. The problem was that ambient was a
> horsepower
rich 60 F at the time.
Very true !
> Theres a good 20 F to be
gained just by
> pulling in abient air!
... or drawing the hot air
out.
Place the probe into the y-pip liek we did on the dyno to see how
effective
the
IC works.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:10:57 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood
Sounds like the Bozz Speed Bonnet Scoops to
me.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>
>I
think it would be worth looking into outlet's rather
>than inlets...
I feel these cars should be getting
>more than enough airflow coming from
the front end
>and that it is just a matter of venting the
"hot"
>air out...
>
>Cheers,
>Kevin Clark
>'91
GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:47:51 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors
"R.G." wrote:
>
> >
Roger's brake site says Porterfields are $70 each. I find that hard to
>
> believe.
>
> That's from a message out of the discussion. I
already deleted the original mail
> and this could indeed be a typo.
Please let me know if anybody has the real
> pricing information.
I
just confirmed the prices via phone:
front rear
91-93 rotor $79 each
$75
94+ rotor $99 $85
cryogenic treatment $40 each
cross drilling
$50 each
- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits
he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:40:21 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
No Boost
could be a leaking bypass valve
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: rammer11@ix.netcom.com <rammer11@ix.netcom.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, April 27, 1999 10:04 AM
Subject: Team3S: No Boost
>I
am in need of help regarding my '92 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo. I had
a
remanufactured long block installed 1,700 miles ago.
>When I received
the car back from the dealer I noticed that it was very
sluggish, but I
attributed that to the newness and
>lack of being broken in. After the 500
mi service and oil change the car
ran much better but I still took it
easy.
>
>The problem is that the boost never goes above 2lbs. The
gauge needle stays
low then suddenly jumps to "0". No matter how
hard
>I push it. The car is slow. It seems like the turbos begin to spool
then
flatten out. The dealer and tech can't figure out the
>problem.
They replaced the wastegate solenoid and checked the boost gage,
no help.
They seem at thier wits end.
>
>Can anyone
help?
>
>RAM
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:52:17 EDT
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: GTO
continuation, injector malfunction
When I had injector problems, I had
gasoline dripping out of the tips of my
exhaust.
An injector was either
leaking or stopped up or something, but you could
smell gasoline when you
opened the hood. I actually drove almost 200 miles
with the car in
this condition because I had no choice. That is the problem
I had with
the injectors so I replaced the fuel rail, fuel pressure
regulator, and
injectors with ones off my old engine pulled out of the car.
Does
anyone think maybee my catalitic converters are more than likely
damaged? And, aren't 3 catalitic converters too many? Is it a
okay idea to
remove two of them and leave only one?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:59:18 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Questions about hoses for boost controller
> > I
mounted the DSBC next to the K&N filter.
>
> Same as my
(current) setup.
<G> Used your page for a lot of the
install. Kudos to you and John Adams.
> > I decided to
remove original hose from the Y-pipe and just
> run the OUT from
>
> the DSBC directly to the 4-way split.
>
> Ok ... but where is
the IN coming from ??
>
Straight from the Y-pipe. It should
always have more pressure than the DSBC
is putting out, so the
response time should not matter.
> > I'm using the
hoses that came with the DSBC, but I believe
> > that running a smaller
diameter hose from the OUT of the
> DSBC will allow it
> > to
control the wastegates quicker due to the smaller volume
> of air
that
> > would need to be pressurized.
>
> Oh no, just
look at the intercooler, IC piping and the
> y-pipe. You have
(almost)
> the same pressurized air in all of these parts and
therefore
> the smaller pipes
> do not help in this point of view.
Finally it really depends
> on how much parts
> are connected to the
vacuum lines and how much of them vent
> to anywhere (like
> the
small valves in the DSBC box). The only important thing
> is that the
hoses do
> not expand under pressure.
Oh, I thought you only
had to increase pressure from the DSBC to the
wastegate actuator. I
thought the actual air to the IC, piping, Y-Pipe,
came straight from the
turbos with the wastegate closed.
Michael
BTW: I'm just
learning about turbo's and high performance cars in general,
so please treat
my posts as someone trying out ideas and looking for
opinions from the
expert's rather than as fact.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:05:23 -0400
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Make shift turbo timer? -Reply
> Blitz Dual Timer
calculates the time of keep the car running
> after shutting it
>
off upon the measured boost over a period of driving. With
> this the
timer showed
Anyone know how the Blitz FATT (Full Auto Turbo Timer)
works? I thought it
was basing the time off of the engine's RPM, but
after installing the DSBC,
it has increased the average idle time, which I
agree with, I just don't
know how it knew. As far as I can tell, it has
no knowledge of the boost
level.
Michael
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:12:14 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: A little good
news to share
Hey Guys,
My little Black 97 Honda Civic turbo is in the
June Issue of Sport Compact
Car - Finally. They have been saying this
article would appear since about
January. I here the spread is about 5 pages
- I have not seen it but I just
got an Email saying its there. I'm going to
go looking for a copy but its
hard to find around me. I hope its for real.
If you have a copy of this
issue, just Email me its in there.
Thanks
:)
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:31:58 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need 1st Gen Hood
Kevin Clark wrote:
> > I've
decided to look into modifying a 1st gen. hood for
> > improved air
inlet.
>
> I think it would be worth looking into outlet's
rather
> than inlets... I feel these cars should be getting
>
more than enough airflow coming from the front end
> and that it is just a
matter of venting the "hot"
> air out...
...which would mean that
instead of a hood, buy a set of shock tower covers/hood
blisters, for a lot
less and do some modifications to them. If you come up with
something sharp,
very functional, and reasonably priced, you might have a captive
market. I've
always thought a kit for performing mods to the blisters was a good
marketing
idea along these lines.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:37:29 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
brake upgrades
>>I recently upgraded my front rotors to powerslots,
which I like although
>>I haven't given them much serios punishment
yet.
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Rich-
Old
Poop maybe, but probably not older than I: (63+ yr.)
I just installed
new OEM rotors because my originals
had warped until I couldn't hold the
steering wheel
still while braking. How much better are the
Powerslots?
I have a '95 VR-4, which has 10.7 inch diameter front
discs. Do the Powerslots use the OEM calipers, or do
you need to
buy new calipers/pads too?
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:08:58 -0700
From: David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: brake upgrades
I love my powerslots. They're a drop-in
replacement for the old rotors, no caliper
upgrade req'd. One drawback
is you can't resurface them, so we'll see how long they
last. The stock
rotors warped almost immediately (2000 miles) after being resurfaced,
which
made me try powerslot to begin with.
"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
>
>>I recently upgraded my front rotors to powerslots, which I like
although
> >>I haven't given them much serios punishment
yet.
>
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
Rich-
> Old Poop maybe, but probably not older than I: (63+ yr.)
> I
just installed new OEM rotors because my originals
> had warped until I
couldn't hold the steering wheel
> still while braking. How much
better are the Powerslots?
> I have a '95 VR-4, which has 10.7 inch
diameter front
> discs. Do the Powerslots use the OEM calipers, or
do
> you need to buy new calipers/pads too?
> Regards,
ptg
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:00:49 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1st
Gen. Hood Mods
A quick inspection of the air filter area shows that air
for the most part,
can only get in or out from underneath. Even this
route is largely blocked
by the active aero/shrouding behind the front
spoiler. My concern with
using the blister opening for an outlet is
that your drawing warm engine air
right past the filter on its way out.
If you've removed the blister, you
will have noticed that the usefull opening
is only about 8 sq. in. and
behind the filter. I suspect the over
priced boze speed blisters are
useless. Initially, it makes more sense
to me to bring in ambient air as
close to direct to the inlet as
possible. Let the warm air get out however
it does now, just as long as
when the filter is sucking the 720 cfm it
needs, theres a close supply of
ambient air available.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:14:44 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Porterfield rotors
I am assuming that this is Warner as in Borg-Warner
and they should be
available all over the place. Maybe wrong; just my
$0.02
Regards,
Lynn
Merritt wrote:
>
> Someone
else has Warner rotors on his 95 VR4, and reported good success
> with
'em.
> Are these different from stock rotors? Where do you get them? How
much?
>
> Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:12:31 -0400
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Porterfield rotors
Which is better cross drilled or
Cryogenic? Thanks
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
[mailto:middaugh@omega.gat.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 27, 1999 7:48 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Porterfield rotors
"R.G." wrote:
>
> >
Roger's brake site says Porterfields are $70 each. I
find that hard
to
> > believe.
>
> That's from a message out of the
discussion. I already
deleted the original mail
> and this could indeed
be a typo. Please let me know if
anybody has the real
> pricing
information.
I just confirmed the prices via phone:
front
rear
91-93 rotor $79 each $75
94+ rotor $99 $85
cryogenic treatment
$40 each
cross drilling $50 each
--
How many roads must a man
travel down before he admits he is
lost!
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:29:02 EDT
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Used
Parts for Sale!
All,
I have the following used
parts for sale.. e-mail if interested!
2 x A'PEXi AFC
1 x HKS Fuel
Pump
Tan leather seats..18,000miles
Front Drivers...excellent
condition (looks new)
Front Passenger...excellent condition (looks
new)
Carpet (tan)...excellent condition (looks new)
Console side
covers...excellent condition (looks new)
Please e-mail LotoBoost@aol.com if
interested!
Thanks,
Mike
1994 Steath tt
Best et: 11.4 Best mph:
122
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:27:17 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: brake upgrades
>I just installed new OEM rotors because my
originals
>had warped until I couldn't hold the steering
wheel
>still while braking. How much better are the
Powerslots?
I think they are very good for street and autocross.
Don't
try any open track events or driver's schools, because they break.
>I
have a '95 VR-4, which has 10.7 inch diameter front
>discs. Do the
Powerslots use the OEM calipers, or do
>you need to buy new calipers/pads
too?
I have a 94, and I just used the stock calipers. I installed
some
Performance Friction carbon metallic street/performance pads, and the
whole
package worked pretty good (until I got it on a track). I suspect that
your
old pads are probably shot if the rotors are that bad.
Rich/old
poop/somebody stop me!
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:40:40 EDT
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Used
Parts for Sale!
Forgot to mention the rear seats
also...
Mike
......
All,
I have the following used parts for sale.. e-mail if
interested!
2 x A'PEXi AFC
1 x HKS Fuel
Pump
Tan leather seats..18,000miles
Front
Drivers...excellent condition (looks new)
Front Passenger...excellent
condition (looks new)
Carpet (tan)...excellent condition (looks
new)
Console side covers...excellent condition (looks
new)
Please e-mail LotoBoost@aol.com if
interested!
Thanks,
Mike
1994 Steath
tt
Best et: 11.4 Best mph: 122
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
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------------------------------
End
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