--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #161
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Saturday, April 24 1999 Volume
01 : Number
161
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 07:04:39 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
I want to apologize to the
list (and Accelerated Accessories!) for
unintentionally starting this pissing
contest. I, like many others on
this list, have been frustrated by
weeks of contacting various retailers
in the states via Email (too expensive
to phone from here) only to be
completely ignored by most, but it wasn't fair
to single out Accelerated
Accessories. In fact, as I said in my
original post, they at least were
very prompt about responding to my
quotation request, and they have
since gotten back to me about completing the
order.
The purpose of my original post was to find out if I should
follow
through with my Abex purchase or go with the Pagids using stock
calipers
and untreated rotors. My understanding is that Pagid pads are
too
aggressive for untreated rotors, but recent posts indicate otherwise.
As AA's delay in responding to my order request essentially delayed
any
purchase commitment, I had time to change my mind based on input
from
the list. I received no input, and now feel obligated to follow
through
with AA.
I expect Accelerated Accessories to fill my order
promptly and would be
happy to respond to personal Emails asking about my
overall experience
with them upon the completion of this order and delivery
of the pads. I
also plan to post my assessment of the Abex pads once
they are installed
and I have had a chance to put them to the test on the
Autobahn.
Thanx, and again, sorry for the excessive bandwidth consumed by
this
thread.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From:
Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
>>Sent:
Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:55 AM
>>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
>>
>>I
considered the Pagids but thought they would be too aggressive for
the
>>stock rotors. Not the case? Please let me know...
while Accelerated
>>Accessories was quick to give me a quote on the
Abex pads, they don't
>>seem to be interested in taking my money and
completing the order. I
>>can get Pagids locally, I
think.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 12:41:03 EDT
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE:
Team3S: Intake Plenum
In a message dated 4/23/99 9:31:32 AM, bbedell@austin.rr.com
wrote:
<<Roger,
You are correct on the runner
length. I am hoping to only reduce the
length about 1" or
so. I am not sure how well this will work, however I am
going to
try.
I will include a small velocity stack on the inlet of the
runners.
(protruding into the tank about 1/4") The runner diameter will
be 1 3/4"
(44mm) I am hoping the velocity stack and smoother
tubes will keep the
torque range similar to the stock manifold.
I will be
port matching the upper piece to the gasket., maybe leave it a
little smaller
than the gasket and let the end used finish it to the
individual
car.
My plenum will also taper, thus keeping the velocity up. Any
ideas/thoughts
on this would be appreciated. Inlet will be 2.75",
and downsize to 2
(tube) Throttle body is about 2.5"
8 ports may be hard
to do. I had forgotten about the BOV though. I will do
what I
can.
To keep the price down, I need a better source for the tubing.
I am paying
way too much for tubing. I hope to sell about 10 units and
get a decent
break on the price of tubing. I have not checked the possibility
of this yet
though.
Ceramic coating may be an option also. Cost should
not exceed about 150.00
for the manifold.
As for the EGR. My reason to
remove it is to get the heat away from the
manifold. I was planning on
using the actual valve area for the additional
vacuum ports (to keep them out
of site and clean looking)
Spray mounts may be difficult. Make me a
drawing so I can see what you
mean.
>
Brad>>
Brad,
Damn then maybe it will make you run 11.8 !!!
Haaaa :)
Adam
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 10:04:36 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
Matthews
wrote:
snip
> The purpose of my original post was to find out if I
should follow
> through with my Abex purchase or go with the Pagids using
stock calipers
> and untreated rotors. My understanding is that
Pagid pads are too
> aggressive for untreated rotors, but recent posts
indicate otherwise.
> As AA's delay in responding to my order request
essentially delayed any
> purchase commitment, I had time to change my
mind based on input from
> the list. I received no input, and now
feel obligated to follow through
> with AA.
snip
Does Pagid come
in a size for our stock calipers?
The problem with stock rotors is that
they warp too quickly. That means
they are not suitable for extreme
braking conditions.
I still would like to see someone who has broken a
rotor (Dave or Rich
:)) test the Porterfield cryogenically treated
rotors with the Pagid
pads and with stock or (but preferably) upgraded
calipers (Hey Rich,
when is your next track event ;) ?). If they don't
break and they don't
warp, this could be the best low cost rotor option for
us! If they
work, that means Brad's kit at about $1570 ($70 more for
the Porterfield
rotors than the KVR) would be an extremely awesome and cost
effective
brake upgrade for us!
- --
How many roads must a man
travel down before he admits he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:11:49 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
Hi
Jim,
I was wondering the SAME thing! When I had
my 911SC I was a member of PCA and a LOT
of my
partners in crime had GREAT luck with the Pagid brake pads. If they work
as
well on
out cars with the stock calipers and rotors
it would make a terrific, relatively low
cost
alternative.
I would really appreciate it if you would let
me know how the combination works out
for you.
Thanks!
Randy
94
VR4
Profec 'A' running at 1.0 bar
modified air box with K&N Filiter-charger
3si
#0053
Matthews wrote:
> I want to apologize to the list (and
Accelerated Accessories!) for
> unintentionally starting this pissing
contest. I, like many others on
> this list, have been frustrated by
weeks of contacting various retailers
> in the states via Email (too
expensive to phone from here) only to be
> completely ignored by most, but
it wasn't fair to single out Accelerated
> Accessories. In fact, as
I said in my original post, they at least were
> very prompt about
responding to my quotation request, and they have
> since gotten back to
me about completing the order.
>
> The purpose of my original post
was to find out if I should follow
> through with my Abex purchase or go
with the Pagids using stock calipers
> and untreated rotors. My
understanding is that Pagid pads are too
> aggressive for untreated
rotors, but recent posts indicate otherwise.
> As AA's delay in responding
to my order request essentially delayed any
> purchase commitment, I had
time to change my mind based on input from
> the list. I received no
input, and now feel obligated to follow through
> with AA.
>
>
I expect Accelerated Accessories to fill my order promptly and would be
>
happy to respond to personal Emails asking about my overall experience
>
with them upon the completion of this order and delivery of the pads.
I
> also plan to post my assessment of the Abex pads once they are
installed
> and I have had a chance to put them to the test on the
Autobahn.
>
> Thanx, and again, sorry for the excessive bandwidth
consumed by this
> thread.
> --
> Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
> matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
>
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
> Michelin Pilot
XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4
13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> 1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft
torque
>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From:
Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
>
>>Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:55 AM
> >>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
>
>>
> >>I considered the Pagids but thought they would be too
aggressive for the
> >>stock rotors. Not the case?
Please let me know... while Accelerated
> >>Accessories was quick to
give me a quote on the Abex pads, they don't
> >>seem to be
interested in taking my money and completing the order. I
>
>>can get Pagids locally, I think.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:24:00 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: New Pirelli
P7000 Tires 4 sale
A set of 4 Pirelli P7000 in size 225/40/18. Used less
then 1 week.
My son's friend is selling these (just wrecked his car)
if
anybody can use them. $425. Shipping included
Email me privately
Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:48:38 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: mods and effect on HP vs. TORQUE (was: Intake Plenum)
Brad Bedell
wrote:
>
> Hey everyone, I am considering making several upper
intake plenums for the
> 3000 VR4.
>
> It will look similar
to the IMP manifold, and I am sure performance gains
> will be similar
(IMP claims 30hp FWIW)
Note that the intake manifold on our cars is a
complex and well-designed
system that works well throughout the RPM range (it
is even mentioned
specifically in Corky Bell's book Maximum Boost, complete
with cutaway
drawing). As with most mods, it is relatively easy to
increase peak
horsepower but this is typically at the expense of torque and
overall
drivability. If improved high-RPM WOT acceleration times is
what's
important for some, then perhaps trading torque for horsepower is
the
way to go in these cases. But if drivability and overall
flexibility is
the goal, then this mod would steal more low end grunt from an
engine
that already suffers from a low compression ratio and considerable
turbo
lag.
So what about some of the recently developed mods that
improve
performance without such tradeoffs? We are driving 80s
technology and
there are several new developments from which I think we can
benefit.
Yesterday I posted a question about VATN turbos. This
seems like a mod
that would increase horsepower AND torque while reducing
turbo lag.
That no one has responded with any additional information is
hopefully
not a sign that this is just a pipe dream.
Another
technology I've been wondering about is variable valve timing.
This seems
like another great idea that increases horsepower AND torque,
kind of the
next step up from our stock plenums with twin runners.
Anyone know if such
systems can be retrofitted to engines such as ours?
These days, high
compression, N/A engines with VVT are approaching the
power output of our
cars. What would our engines be like with VVT, VATN
turbos and the
appropriate supporting fuel system upgrades? I suspect
these mods will
not be cheap, but all of these little lag-inducing
torque-stealing mods may
add up to close to the same!
Back to the plenum idea and similar.
May I suggest that the tradeoffs
of such mods be made very clear to those who
may see easy horsepower
advertised but not understand the drawbacks.
More than a few
disappointed N/A folks spent a good chunk of change on
free-flow exhaust
systems after being told that they would increase
horsepower (which they
do) but who were not told that it would come at a
significant sacrifice
in torque. I hate to see that sort of thing
happen to folks. It's only
fair to tell the whole story, with
measurements if possible.
Just my $.02. -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:08:53 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
mods and effect on HP vs. TORQUE (was: Intake Plenum)
> Another
technology I've been wondering about is variable valve timing.
> This
seems like another great idea that increases horsepower AND torque,
> kind
of the next step up from our stock plenums with twin runners.
> Anyone
know if such systems can be retrofitted to engines such as ours?
> These
days, high compression, N/A engines with VVT are approaching the
> power
output of our cars. What would our engines be like with VVT, VATN
>
turbos and the appropriate supporting fuel system upgrades? I
suspect
> these mods will not be cheap, but all of these little
lag-inducing
> torque-stealing mods may add up to close to the
same!
Would you gain much by variable valve timing? I'd think that
since the
intake charge is being rammed into the cylinders by the turbos that
VVT
wouldn't have as much effect in a turbo car. I think a cam profile
with
longer time open on the intake would help some if you are really trying
to
jam a lot of air in there. Seems like VVT would be difficult to
retrofit
onto the motor as well. Not impossible, just difficult - and
the expense
would be high.
- -Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 13:20:57 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
>The problem
with stock rotors is that they warp too quickly. That means
>they
are not suitable for extreme braking conditions. I still would like
to
see someone who has broken a rotor (Dave or Rich >:)) test
the
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors with the Pagid
>pads and
with stock or (but preferably) upgraded calipers (Hey Rich,
>when is your
next track event ;) ?).
I'm not sure. Got some work to do first.
Maybe not until July.
I spoke with an engineer at Performance Friction, and
he said:
The pads I have been using were street pads. I should use a race
pad.
He does not like slotted or drilled rotors. They act like a cheese
grater
and cut pad life
He recommends a stock rotor.
He says cryogenic
treatments are good.
He also says -- and here's the kicker -- that the VERY
BEST thing we can do
is duct air to the brakes for cooling. This will improve
life of pads
greatly.
He also says all Trans-Am cars use
water-injected cooling on street
courses. He says it drops brake temps by
200-300 deg. Just don't (as Roger
says) squirt water directly on the rotors.
Instead, move the injector 12-18
in. back in the duct.
So, I am going
back to stock rotors with Performance Friction 460-80 (not
full race)
pads.
I am also going to seal up my air ducting system to make sure I trap
all
the air collected by the scoops.
And I will try to rig up a water
injection system into the ducts.
If all that works, I'll save up some money
and buy Brad's Porsche calipers.
Of course, I will keep the group posted
on my progress, if I have any.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 12:00:14 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
Merritt
wrote:
>
> Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >The problem with stock
rotors is that they warp too quickly. That means
> >they are not
suitable for extreme braking conditions. I still would like
> to see
someone who has broken a rotor (Dave or Rich >:)) test the
>
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors with the Pagid
> >pads and
with stock or (but preferably) upgraded calipers (Hey Rich,
> >when is
your next track event ;) ?).
>
> I'm not sure. Got some work to do
first. Maybe not until July.
> I spoke with an engineer at Performance
Friction, and he said:
> The pads I have been using were street pads. I
should use a race pad.
> He does not like slotted or drilled rotors. They
act like a cheese grater
> and cut pad life
That is exactly what
the slotted rotors are designed for -- to keep a
fresh flat surface on the
pad. I'm not too sure about the crossdrilled
rotors with chamfered
holes though.
i.e (here comes some wonderful ASCII art
:))
___ ____
\ /
|
|
or
|
|
\___
___
/
|
|
I wouldn't think
they would 'grate' as much (if at all) as the slotted
ones. I think the
benefits of allowing gas to escape thus enhancing
braking would outweigh any
negatives providing we can find a high
quality unit that won't break or
crack. After all, Porsche and numerous
other manufacturer use cross
drilled rotors as stock equipment (i.e. my
friend's '96 Twin Turbo
Porsche).
> He recommends a stock rotor.
> He says cryogenic
treatments are good.
> He also says -- and here's the kicker -- that the
VERY BEST thing we can do
> is duct air to the brakes for cooling. This
will improve life of pads
> greatly.
> He also says all
Trans-Am cars use water-injected cooling on street
> courses. He says it
drops brake temps by 200-300 deg. Just don't (as Roger
> says) squirt
water directly on the rotors. Instead, move the injector 12-18
> in. back
in the duct.
>
> So, I am going back to stock rotors with
Performance Friction 460-80 (not
> full race) pads.
I hope you
don't mean stock OE Mitsu rotors -- they will warp. At least
try the
Porterfield cryogenically treated rotors. Without cross
drilling, they
should run about $110 each.
> I am also going to seal up my air
ducting system to make sure I trap all
> the air collected by the
scoops.
> And I will try to rig up a water injection system into the
ducts.
> If all that works, I'll save up some money and buy Brad's Porsche
calipers.
>
Keep up the good work with the cooling
investigation. Can anyone help
out with a thermocouple solution and
modified brake backing plates? I'd
be willing to contribute a few bucks
to Rich's testing :), anyone else?
- --
How many roads must a man travel
down before he admits he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:22:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Braking, pads
> Does Pagid come in a size for our stock
calipers?
Yes, the same size fits all years (Blue or the
RS-R,orange)
Mikael (US, 296mm rotors) and me (EU, 314mm) are using exactly
the same pads.
// Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:22:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Braking, pads
> Does Pagid come in a size for our stock
calipers?
Yes, the same size fits all years (Blue or the
RS-R,orange)
Mikael (US, 296mm rotors) and me (EU, 314mm) are using exactly
the same pads.
// Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ testpipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 16:19:07 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Intake Plenum
If your talking about the last picture in your
website. It's the Bozz
Speed car, they created a whole new manifold to
support the T67 Turbos
the car utilizes, but there was a lack of clearance
which caused the
hood to be remade. The turbo's were the main problem. It's
not utilizing
a MAF meter since they are using a VPC and additional
controllers, but
they had to pretty much remove accessories like cruise
control to
accomodate the piping.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 14:35:05 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injectors
Hi. I have a set of 6 RC 560cc
injectors. I didn't really plan on
selling them. I am between
cars right now. They are just sitting
here in a bag. I will sell
them to you for $475 shipped. Let
me
know.
Chris
>
>Hi,
>
>Does
anyone know if the 550cc Nipondenso Injectors for the 88-91
Mazda RX7 will
fit a VR4??
>
>Or if anyone have a set of used RC560 to sell, please
email me
PRIVATELY!
>
>/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 01:11:47 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
So anyway I was
thinking about this last night, which is a very dangerous
thing. Someone had
suggested using something like a windshield washer setup
to accomplish this.
Here's my contribution: use the existing windshield
washers. If you're racing
you shouldn't need to run the washers during the
event. Run a second set of
lines leading down to the brakes for the water so
they could be switched.
Splice a switch into the existing harness which just
runs the washer (instead
of washer and wiper like what's there). Everything
you need is already there.
You don't need an extra reservoir or pump. I
think our washers hold about a
gallon of fluid. I don't know if this would
be enough, but it's a good start.
OK, I'll go back to lurking now.
> He also says all Trans-Am cars
use water-injected cooling on street
> courses. He says it drops brake
temps by 200-300 deg. Just don't (as Roger
> says) squirt water directly
on the rotors. Instead, move the injector 12-18
> in. back in the
duct.
>
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:52:28 EDT
From: MikeVR4@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Stillen/Brembo replacement rotors
OK, Porterfield needs all kinds of
measurements, flange, eye, hole sizes and
numbers, chamfer...Geez, I don't
know what is better - Pulling a rotor and
just sending it to them(knocking
the car out of commission for
who-knows-how-long) or beating the specs out
of Stillen?!
Brad, thanks for the tip-off on the 95+ F-body, I'll see if
I can get a look.
George Kuo mentioned he uses the larger 94+ year rotors
with the
Stillen/Brembo calipers. Has anyone else done this and
experienced no
problems, besides the clearance with 1st gen. 17"
wheels?
Mike Willis
'93 Pearl White VR-4
Next TWS Porsche Education
Event -> 22-23 May, Register Now!!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:55:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
At 01:11 AM
4/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
>So anyway I was thinking about this last night,
which is a very dangerous
>thing. Someone had suggested using something
like a windshield washer setup
>to accomplish this. Here's my
contribution: use the existing windshield
>washers. If you're racing you
shouldn't need to run the washers during the
>event. Run a second set of
lines leading down to the brakes for the water so
>they could be switched.
Splice a switch into the existing harness which just
>runs the washer
(instead of washer and wiper like what's there). Everything
>you need is
already there. You don't need an extra reservoir or pump. I
>think our
washers hold about a gallon of fluid. I don't know if this would
>be
enough, but it's a good start.
That is more or less what I had in mind.
Gotta be careful that both lines
are the same length, or one brake might get
more fluid than the other. Also
gotta worry about how to activate it. If we
could disable the wiper blades
- -- maybe by pulling a connector -- then the
hand control on the steering
column would work.
I'd also
connect to the brake light switch. That way, every time ya hit the
binders,
it would spray water. The harder and longer you hit the brakes,
the more
water you get.
If it ain't enough, then you could use the hand control
to spray some extra
whilst traversing the front straight.
I'm
concerned about what happens if I use the normal windshield wiper pump
and
control circuitry -- in stock form, it goes through a sequence of
squirting
and running the wipers. While I can probably unplug the wipers, I
wonder if
it would still go through its standard squirting timing. With a
separate pump
and switch, I could control the squirt time more accurately.
I could also
position the pump squarely between the wheels to obtain equal
tubing
distances.
A little experimentation should solve the problem.
If I
can't make the stock system work to satisfaction, I can buy an
entire
system with reservoir and pump from JC Whitney for $12.95.
I'm still pondering over what to use to squirt water into the ducts.
Some
sort of plant mister, someone suggested. I gotta check the local stores
and
see what's available.
>OK, I'll go back to lurking
now.
All such advice is welcome. None of us has done this before. Thanks
for
contributing.
Rich/old poop/Somebody STOP me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 05:59:44 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
mods and effect on HP vs. TORQUE (was: Intake Plenum)
Matthews
wrote:
> Yesterday I posted a question about VATN turbos. This
seems like a mod
> that would increase horsepower AND torque while
reducing turbo lag.
> That no one has responded with any additional
information is hopefully
> not a sign that this is just a pipe
dream.
Last I checked over a year ago, there were no VATN turbos with
sufficient
airflow to support our engines at high hp levels.
Jack
T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:04:57 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Adventures in braking-1999
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adventures in
braking-1999
>So, NONE of you guys ever tried to have the STOCK
rotors cryo'ed, to see if
>they would warp or not......
Hey
Folks!
Even though I am a retired mechanical engineer with a major in
metallurgy,
(from 1958), I have no idea if this is a plausible idea. My
first thought
is
that it might require final machining after the cryo
treatment. Hope
someone
tries this; it would be a winner if it
worked!
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:21:24 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
When I was in the citrus
business we used a little emitter called
a MicroJet. They are very
cheap and come in a myriad of sizes.
Regards,
Lynn
Merritt
wrote:
>
I'm still pondering over what to use to squirt water
into the ducts.
Some
> sort of plant mister, someone suggested. I gotta
check the local stores and
> see what's available.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:21:48 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Basic brake upgrade
>On a personal note.. I think I should have went
straight for the Brembo
>big brake set-up.. I wasted a lot of small money
(that added to big
>money!) on trying to upgrade the stock brake system..
Gota love them
>Brembos.. gave me alot more confidence in braking my 2 ton
monster..
>
>George Kuo
George-
Do the Brembos not
warp? I don't race (but I do live on a small mountain),
and my OEM
rotors have warped severly! Seems like I got a post from
Jack Tertadian
that said the Brembos warp too. Jack: are you still on the
line?
I bought two new OEM front rotors yesterday, and expect to
install
them
early next week. I don't consider my driving to be as
severe as competition
driving, but my OEM rotors quickly went to
hell!
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:34:26 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
> George-
> Do the Brembos not
warp?
George has the Stillen/Brembo brakes. His Stillen rotors did
not last,
so now he
has the Porterfield cross drilled rotors that he seems
very happy with.
- --
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:37:21 EDT
From: UNCLEDONUT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Adventures in braking-1999
In a message dated 4/23/99 8:09:51 PM Eastern
Daylight Time, ptgolley@ro.com
writes:
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Adventures in
braking-1999
>
>
> >So, NONE of you
guys ever tried to have the STOCK rotors cryo'ed, to see
if
>
>they would warp or not......
>
>
> Hey
Folks!
> Even though I am a retired mechanical engineer with a major
in metallurgy,
> (from 1958), I have no idea if this is a plausible
idea. My first thought
> is
> that it might
require final machining after the cryo treatment. Hope
>
someone
> tries this; it would be a winner if it
worked!
> Regards, ptg
>
Hi
there,
I have access to liquid Nitrogen at work. If someone
could explain this
"cryogenic process" I would be more than happy to try it
and report back on
what I find.
- -Dave Rich
'91 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:39:42 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mist nozzel...Braking
Anything like this will work, there are
lots of misting nozzels available in the
Horticulture trade....BUT, make sure
you're using absolutely clean, pure, unadulterated
water, as the hole size is
veeeeery small and will become plugged with impurities
fast.
Best
Darc
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
> When
I was in the citrus business we used a little emitter called
> a
MicroJet. They are very cheap and come in a myriad of
sizes.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> Merritt
wrote:
> >
> I'm still pondering over what to use to squirt
water into the ducts.
> Some
> > sort of plant mister, someone
suggested. I gotta check the local stores and
> > see what's
available.
> >
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:53:19 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Basic brake upgrade
>--- Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:
>On a personal note.. I think I should have went straight for the
Brembo
>big brake set-up.. I wasted a lot of small money (that added to
big
>money!) on trying to upgrade the stock brake system.. Gota love
them
>Brembos.. gave me alot more confidence in braking my 2 ton
monster..
All-
Are you addressing only the front pads on the
VR-4? That seems to be
my only warped rotor problem, but I'm not
sure.
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:10:58 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
550cc injectors on a 96VR4
>Has anyone installed aftermarket
injectors on an OBDII VR4/TTStealth ?
Hi All-
Can anyone tell me
how to determine whether or not I have OBD-I, or
OBD-II on my 1995 VR-4
Mitsu?
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:49:29 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mist nozzel...Braking
>Anything like this will work, there are lots of
misting nozzels available
in the
>Horticulture trade....BUT, make sure
you're using absolutely clean, pure,
unadulterated
>water, as the hole
size is veeeeery small and will become plugged with
impurities
fast.
A cheap fuel filter should suffice to keep particulates
out ---- distilled
water would prevent buildup of deposits.
The
question I have concerns water pressure --- most misters want to see
50 to 60
pounds of pressure. I doubt that a windshield washer provides
anywhere near
that kind of pressure!!
Jim Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:08:15 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Basic brake upgrade
"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
> Do Brembos not
warp? I don't race;
> my OEM rotors warped severly! Seems I
got post from
> Jack Tertadian said Brembos warp. Jack: are you
still on the
> line? I don't drive severe competition, but my OEM
rotors quickly went to hell!
Paul:
Yes, the Stillen Brembo fronts with
Pagid Blues warped for me after 3 x 2-day
track events, and alot of street
driving. I have never had them turned,
so I will be doing that
next.
Jack
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:18:57 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
>Do the Brembos not warp? I
don't race (but I do live on a small mountain),
>and my OEM rotors have
warped severly! <snip> > I don't consider my
driving to be as
severe as competition
>driving, but my OEM rotors quickly went to
hell!
>Regards, ptg
>
Your rotors and pads might be getting
hot because of (1) where you live and
(2) how you brake. I suspect you heat
up your pads ferociously because you
PROBABLY are on the brakes constantly,
applying light to medium pressure.
This is the worst possible kind of
braking, and will burn up the pads and
smoke the rotors worse than racing
does.
I remember driving down the road from Wiamea Canyon on
Kawai in a rental.
Signs said "descend the mountain in a lower gear." Poo, I
thought, what do
they know? Halfway down, I had to find a place to pull
off and let the
brakes on the rental cool, because they were smoking. Guess
they knew what
they were talking about!
Tis far better to get on and
get off them quickly, as in racing. Of course,
this is virtually impossible
to do on the street.
You might be an ideal candidate for air cooling
ducts to the front brakes.
Fortunately, this is easily and cheaply
done.
Rich/old poop/Somebody Stop Me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:45:19 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
550cc injectors on a 96VR4
"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
> >Has
anyone installed aftermarket injectors on an OBDII VR4/TTStealth ?
> Can
anyone tell me whether I have OBD-I or
> OBD-II on 1995 VR-4
Mitsu?
1995 Federal car should be OBD I still.
In 1996 they went to
left bank front, left bank rear, right bank front, right bank
rear O2
sensors, and added a barometric pressure sensor. These are the OBD
II
cars.
The VPC does work on 1994-95 cars which have the 4-plug Molex
connector
to the ECU (rather than the 3-plug version as on 91-93 cars, and
which comes
with the VPC as delivered by HKS). There are modifications
to the wiring to
make it so. Vineet Singh's CD ROM manual came in most
handy here!
Since I needed a VR4 that actually runs, for daily driving and
winter,
now that my '93 is (like many experiment-mobiles) not running half
the time, I
bought a '94 last month so had reason to make my '93's VPC work
on a 94+.
It works fine, with my 720cc injectors :)
and I like the stereo way better,
and those bigger
brakes...
Apparently, from what Mike says, the VPC will work on OBD II
cars too; the
barometric pressure/O2 sensor change seems a
non-issue.
BTW, the 94+ are a LITTLE faster than 91-93. I got my 94
to go 12.6/107 its
first outing, with only a fish-valve bleeder and gutted
main cat, K&N.
Stock exhaust. That is about 1-2mph/.1-.2
faster; my 93 went 12.7/107 but
had Borla exhaust also. I think the Borla was
worth the 1-2 mph and .1-.2...
The cars weigh about the same.
Interestingly, the 94 seems to go much
faster than it
should...SOMEtimes. On Vericom it has gone 12.1-12.2 114-116
at
night 2AM (cold) when I do my Vericom runs...but at track was
hotter/humid.
Vericom at night/cold on my car usually reads faster than track
DAY.
The knock sensor kicking in/different timing maps REALLY makes a
big
difference, and I wonder if the 94+ 12psi computers were "mapped out" to
a higher
boost range than the 91-93, which only were supposed to goto 9.7psi
stock.
That may be partly why 94+ are a little faster with most all else the
same; the 6 speed
does have tighter ratio spacing but first gear is about
exactly the same.
Merry Xmas ;)
Jack
Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:05:50 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
Merritt wrote:
> You might be an
ideal candidate for air cooling ducts to the front brakes.
> Fortunately,
this is easily and cheaply done.
>
Rich...you're going to have to
take some pictures of your setup for the Team. That's all
there is to it
mate. :-) A picture is worth a thousand words, and saves a
kazillion
questions on discriptions not visualized
adequately.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:27:45 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
tranny leak
>I did. The part you need is this one it's
only like
>http://www.concentric.net/~Bcdmad/tranny1.jpg
$4-$5 from Tallahassee Mits.
>
>I couldn't figure out how it got out
... and I still can't figure out how
>it goes in. I put it in
Backwards and it works. I'll be taking out the
>tranny soon for a
new throwout bearing and will fix it the right way.
Just an
afterthought--- as I recall you said that an internal bolt
prevented the
disk/stem plug from going in all the way. Is the
allen head bolt tight or has
it loosened and backed out preventing
the insertion of the
plug.
Jim berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:43:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
- --- "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com> wrote:
>
George-
> Do the Brembos not warp? I don't race (but I do
>
live on a small mountain),
> and my OEM rotors have warped severly!
Seems like I
> got a post from
> Jack Tertadian that said the
Brembos warp too.
Well.. from all these brake discussion I think we
concluded that most
all rotors warp.. what I meant to say is that i like the
stopping power
Brembos gave me.. as for the rotors.. I rather use cheaper
pre-treated
rotors from
Porterfield...
George
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:37:53 EDT
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Brakes -
Update on Brad's Kit
After 160+ racing laps at Summit Point using stock
Wagner 1995 front rotors,
Pagid Orange pads, and Brad's modified
Brembo/Porsche calipers ;
1) Used 1/16" of pad. Full pad thickness is
1/2".
2) No warping. Rotors look good. Unlike previous 93 stock rotors using
Perfomance Friction pads which would either warp or develop heat
cracks.
3) Bleed brakes. Very little discoloration on fronts. Rear's were
just a
little darker. Suspect very little rear brake used.
4) This is
without any cooling ducts.
FWIW watching Tran-Am race. Car had front torn
up. They mentioned that they
needed to keep the cooling ducts and FANS in
tack. Sounded like they used
high speed fans IN the cooling
ducts.
Will update status again after next event
Dave 93 VR4 -
Brake, Brake,Brake,Gas,Gas,Gas. Instructors can be so
repetitive :)
:)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:43:38 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Braking, was: Business ethincs!?!? - Apology
We did exactly this to spray
the intercoolers when racing. It works.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Schmalzried <Q11981@email.mot.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, April 23, 1999 6:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Braking, was: Business
ethincs!?!? - Apology
>So anyway I was thinking about this last
night, which is a very dangerous
>thing. Someone had suggested using
something like a windshield washer setup
>to accomplish this. Here's my
contribution: use the existing windshield
>washers. If you're racing you
shouldn't need to run the washers during the
>event. Run a second set of
lines leading down to the brakes for the water
so
>they could be
switched. Splice a switch into the existing harness which
just
>runs
the washer (instead of washer and wiper like what's there).
Everything
>you need is already there. You don't need an extra reservoir
or pump. I
>think our washers hold about a gallon of fluid. I don't know
if this would
>be enough, but it's a good start.
>OK, I'll go back
to lurking now.
>
>> He also says all Trans-Am cars use
water-injected cooling on street
>> courses. He says it drops brake
temps by 200-300 deg. Just don't (as
Roger
>> says) squirt water
directly on the rotors. Instead, move the injector
12-18
>> in. back
in the duct.
>>
>--
>Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
>-You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
>-Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 06:44:33 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Injectors
Sorry about the 2 public posts. It was an
accident.
Thanks,
Chris
>
>Hi. I have a set
of 6 RC 560cc injectors. I didn't really plan on
>selling
them. I am between cars right now. They are just sitting
>here
in a bag. I will sell them to you for $475 shipped. Let
me
>know.
>
>Chris
>
>
>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>Does anyone know if the 550cc Nipondenso Injectors for
the 88-91
>Mazda RX7 will fit a VR4??
>>
>>Or if anyone
have a set of used RC560 to sell, please email
me
>PRIVATELY!
>>
>>/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>>
>>
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
_______________________________________________________________
Get
Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:40:23 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
>Rich...you're going to have to take
some pictures of your setup for the
Team. That's all
>there is to it
mate. :-) A picture is worth a thousand words, and saves
a
kazillion
>questions on discriptions not visualized adequately.
My
son has a digital camera. We'll take a couple of shots and make
them
available.
May take a week or two to figure out how to do it,
though.
Rich/old poop/Somebody Stop Me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:08:56 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Twin Turbo Chargers For Sale from 3000GT VR-4
I will give you $150 for
them. Let me know.
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Brent W <bwiscombe@email.msn.com>
To:
Stealth-3000GT Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
JYTurbo
Email List <jyturbo@onelist.com>; diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
<diy_efi@efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu>;
blown@f-body.org <blown@f-body.org>
Date: Thursday, April
22, 1999 11:21 AM
Subject: Team3S: Twin Turbo Chargers For Sale from 3000GT
VR-4
>Hello,
>I have for sale the two turbos that came on
the factory twin turbo 3.0
liter
>V-6 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 (the
brother to the Dodge Stealth). I only have
>the turbos themselves without
any other items. These are the TDO4 series
>turbochargers by
Mitsubishi.
>
>These two turbos were working perfectly when removed
prior to converting
the
>car into a race car. The car only had about
15,000 miles on it at the time
>when the turbos were removed for the
conversion, so these turbos are gently
>used. These turbos have the
built-in wastegates which make using them on
>turbo conversions so much
easier and much more compact. These turbos have
>fittings to attach a
lubricating oil inlet and outlet supply line, as well
>as fittings to
attach an engine coolant inlet and outlet supply line, if
you
>want to
use coolant to help keep the turbo bearings cooler.
>
>These turbos
would work really great on any 2.2-3.5 liter twin turbo engine
>setup
whether it be a V-6 or a straight 4 cylinder engine. Or you could use
>a
single turbo for any 1.0-2.0 liter single turbo engine setup, maybe
a
>turbocharged Mazda Miata or Harley Davidson?!!!
>
>Please
contact me if you have a desire to purchase these turbos from me.
>I will
sell them to the best offer.
>
>Thank you,
>Brent
Wiscombe
>bwiscombe@msn.com
>Mesa,
AZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #161
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm