--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #155
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk

Team3S Digest          Sunday, April 18 1999          Volume 01 : Number 155

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 02:39:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade

- --- Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au> wrote:
> Recently I had my car on a track on a club day &
> after 20-30 fairly
> heavy laps my brakes gave up & cooked the rotors,
> pads & fluid.....very
> expensive day.

Wow! that's alot of laps! ... my stock set-up over-heated after 4-5
hotlaps around a 2.5 mile course..

> My question is , can I just use high performance
> pads & fluid with out
> having to buy better rotors for "occasional" track
> days? Has anybody had
> experiences with using upgraded pads & fluids on
> tracks with the
> standard rotors?

I had pretty good luck with Motul Racing brake fluid with Porterfield
Carbon Kevlar pads (with stock cross-drilled rotors and stock
caliper).. both have very high temp tolerance and added alot more
hotlaps around the course.. the carbon kevlar pads are pretty
rotor-friendly.. I would also recommend a set of Goodridge brake
lines..

George
'92 RT TT
LA, CA
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:37:21 -0600
From: "Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: T bar metal clamps for Y-Pipe to throttle body connection

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BE88BE.463CB520
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was reading over some old posts. When you guys talk about using a T =
bar metal clamp as a better clamp to use to hold the y pipe onto the =
throttle body, is this a muffler clamp that you are talking about? I =
could not find anyone that new what a T clamp was. A muffler clamp by =
my definition is a U shaped rod threaded on both ends with a curved flat =
bar with holes that slide on top of the U and then can be bolted down to =
apply pressure. =20

I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of boost and have heard =
you guys talk about better clamping methods than the ring clamps that =
come factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new Y-pipe).

Brent M.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BE88BE.463CB520
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was reading over some old =
posts.  When you=20
guys talk about using a T bar metal clamp as a better clamp to use to =
hold the y=20
pipe onto the throttle body, is this a muffler clamp that you are =
talking=20
about?  I could not find anyone that new what a T clamp was.  =
A=20
muffler clamp by my definition is a U shaped rod threaded on both ends =
with a=20
curved flat bar with holes that slide on top of the U and then can be =
bolted=20
down to apply pressure.  </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at =
15lbs of=20
boost and have heard you guys talk about better clamping methods than =
the ring=20
clamps that come factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new=20
Y-pipe).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Brent M.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BE88BE.463CB520--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:46:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: T bar metal clamps for Y-Pipe to throttle body connection

> I was reading over some old posts. When you guys talk about using a T bar
> metal clamp as a better clamp to use to hold the y pipe onto the throttle
> body, is this a muffler clamp that you are talking about?

No, it's not the known muffler clamp as this is called U-clamp (at least in
Europe). A T-clamp can usually be found in Truck shops (especially Turbo Trucks
like Iveco, Volvo, etc.) They use the T-clamps for the intercoolers and often
for the water hoses too.

> I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of boost and have heard you
> guys talk about better clamping methods than the ring clamps that come
> factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new Y-pipe).

Well, I never heard anyone popping the y-pipe off up to 15psi if the clamp was
tightened enough and not damaged. Mine only popped off once at around 20psi but
this is another story.

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:56:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade

> My question is , can I just use high performance pads & fluid with out
> having to buy better rotors for "occasional" track days?

You should not mixing different pads (material) on a rotor. If you want to go to
carbon metallic or kevlar then just have another set ready on the track but
don't change them with the stock ones after a race. This is due to the particles
of the pads that are getting pressed into the the rotors surface under high
pressure and high temperatures.

As George already said, change the fluid (I use Castrol SRF and I'm very happy),
use some good pads (like carbon metallic or others) and follow the right
procedure to season the rotors with the new pads and padding in the pads.
Reaplacing the brake lines will finally complete this.

Please note the stock rotors will be in danger to get warped when using pads
with a higher temperature coefficient as the surface temperature will rise. Also
you may not be warned by any fading then (depends on the pads of course).

Happy braking,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:57:46 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: T bar metal clamps for Y-Pipe to throttle body connection

T-bolt clamps are not muffler clamps although some high end muffler clamps
may use T-bolts.

Hose clamps usually have a short threaded bolt which consumes threads on the
band. Good T-bolt clamps have a long bolt and are usually hinged where they
are attached to the band. The band may be threaded but often there is a
nylock nut attached to the band on a hinge.

The advantage to T-bolt clamps is that they disperse the clamping force more
evenly around the band and can usually hold more torque. Standard hose
clamps tend to pinch more in one place than others.

Run of the mill shops don't seem to have a clue what they are even though
they are used all over the place. They are used extensively in aircraft and
race applications.

NAPA does have a limited selection in their catalogs but you may have to
point them out to whomever is behind the counter. I have also seen them on
various places on the WWW and the odd time on shelves at run of the mill
auto parts shops. Also check out local reputable race shops.

Barry

- -----Original Message-----

I was reading over some old posts. When you guys talk about using a T bar
metal clamp as a better clamp to use to hold the y pipe onto the throttle
body, is this a muffler clamp that you are talking about? I could not find
anyone that new what a T clamp was. A muffler clamp by my definition is a U
shaped rod threaded on both ends with a curved flat bar with holes that
slide on top of the U and then can be bolted down to apply pressure.

I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of boost and have heard you
guys talk about better clamping methods than the ring clamps that come
factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new Y-pipe).

Brent M.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 19:23:14 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AVC-R learning

Oskar wrote:
>
> My question has to do with the learning. I'm not sure of the best way
> fastest way to let the BC learn. It seems you do a few runs in different
> gears, is that it? What gears? I will want to go slow and safe to begin
> with. After that, is it advisable to disconnect things to "erase" the
> memory, and then let it learn under higher boost conditions, or will the BC
> adjust as I apply the leadfoot??

What the SAVC-R is learning is how fast boost comes on and what it needs
to do to sustain your max boost pressure setting throughout the RPM
range. I agree with Barry that a good initial setting is 1.00 bar @ 66%
BADC. First, get out on the road and drive so that you're seeing 2000
RPMs in third gear. At this point, go WOT and hold it there until boost
builds and stabilizes at 1.00 bar. Then shift to fourth or fifth and
again go WOT from 2000 RPMs until you see a stable 1.00 bar. After a
few runs like this, start paying attention to any overboost, which you
will see early in the runs (2500-3500 RPM) and not after boost has
stabilized. If it's overboosting more than you want, decrease the BADC
setting and retrain from scratch.

For a car with stock U.S.-spec turbos and fuel system, running the car
to redline makes little to no difference, IMO. Above 6k RPM, the turbos
can't flow enough to sustain 1.00 bar and the IDC will exceed 90%,
defeating the SAVC-R learn process.

Note that my dyno sessions were with unlearned settings of 1.00 bar @
72% BADC. In normal driving, these settings result in short overboost
to 1.05 bar followed by a stable 1.00 bar to 6k RPM. IMO, this is the
maximum safe setting for a stock engine on 93 octane pump gas.

Good luck, and enjoy the new power you just unleashed! :-)

- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:38:43 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning Under The Hood

I personally have never done this to my 3000, but my friend does it to
his. He got some kind of pink cleaning acid and sprayed it all over
everything in the engine compartment. Covered up intake filter and was
careful around plug wires. He lets it sit for a minute and then goes
crazy with the hose spraying everything off. I personally cannot bare
the thought of spraying water all over everything that is why I
personally havn't done it. But his car runs great (mid 12's with stock
turbos) and has been doing it for almost 50,000 miles.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 10:16:07 +1000
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade

Thanks Roger & George for the advice,

R.G. wrote:

> You should not mixing different pads (material) on a rotor. If you want to go to
> carbon metallic or kevlar then just have another set ready on the track but
> don't change them with the stock ones after a race. This is due to the particles
> of the pads that are getting pressed into the the rotors surface under high
> pressure and high temperatures.
>
> As George already said, change the fluid (I use Castrol SRF and I'm very happy),
> use some good pads (like carbon metallic or others) and follow the right
> procedure to season the rotors with the new pads and padding in the pads.
> Reaplacing the brake lines will finally complete this.
>
> Please note the stock rotors will be in danger to get warped when using pads
> with a higher temperature coefficient as the surface temperature will rise. Also
> you may not be warned by any fading then (depends on the pads of course).

So basically, I can't just use higher quality pads & leave them in for
everyday use with the stock rotors as then the rotors become the weak
link...yes? If I want to "improve" the brakes do I really need to do the
rotors aswell to make the whole exercise worth while?

Thanks again
Andrew
Australia 94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:44:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tires

Hello,

   I just recently changed tires on my SL to 225/50ZR16 and I still
have a set of the factory recomended size 225/55VR16 that still have
the nipples on them. I have only used them for about 1200 miles. They
are Goodyear Eagle directionals, I hear they run about 800 a set. If
anyone is interested please e-mail me privetly, I also have 3 factory
16 in. SL rims that I need to get rid of so make me an offer.

    Thanks, Dustin
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:14:32 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning Under The Hood

Del;

If you could research the product name and the specific method of
application/employment, it might be of some interest to subscribers who would otherwise
shy away from attempting this, for fear of causing the problems noted by other
subscribers who responded with warnings against attempting cleaning 3S engine
compartments.

Best

Darc

snip

> I personally have never done this to my 3000, but my friend does it to
> his. He got some kind of pink cleaning acid and sprayed it all .....

snip

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:22:08 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade

George Kuo wrote:

snip

> I had pretty good luck with Motul Racing brake fluid with Porterfield
> Carbon Kevlar pads (with stock cross-drilled rotors and stock
> caliper).. both have very high temp tolerance and added alot more
> hotlaps around the course.. the carbon kevlar pads are pretty
> rotor-friendly.. I would also recommend a set of Goodridge brake
> lines..

Out of curiosity George, wht did it cost, and how well did they mangae to cross drill
your stock rotors? Was it a decent job? And, it sounds like they performed reasonably
well as an option to the full race financial maiming aftermarket options...or am I
"trying" to read to much into this :-)

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 02:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade

- --- Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au> wrote:

> So basically, I can't just use higher quality pads &
> leave them in for
> everyday use with the stock rotors as then the
> rotors become the weak
> link...yes? If I want to "improve" the brakes do I
> really need to do the
> rotors aswell to make the whole exercise worth
> while?

Well... Porterfield claims that their race pad (carbon kevlar) are
rotor-friendly and you can use it for daily driving.. and they don't
need to be heated up 1st like other race pads..

As for me.. I have 2 sets.. a street pad for daily driving.. and race
pads for the occasional road courses..

On a personal note.. I think I should have went straight for the Brembo
big brake set-up.. I wasted a lot of small money (that added to big
money!) on trying to upgrade the stock brake system.. Gota love them
Brembos.. gave me alot more confidence in braking my 2 ton monster..

George Kuo
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #155
****************************

For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm