--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #151
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Tuesday, April 13 1999 Volume 01
: Number
151
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:25:56 -0400
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sidemarkers
Roger has them on his... I have a set
but hate to cut holes in my car ...I'll get them in one
day.
Brian
I think it would look tight. I think all it would
take is a hole, and some splicing to
the turn signal/parking light. That way
it's on w/ the parking lights, but also flashes
w/ the
blinker.
Leland
CHiLER555@aol.com wrote:
> How do
u think sidemarker lights would look on our cars? And how hard do
>
yours think it would be to install?
>
> Larry A.
>
> 94
3000gt SL
>
> glacier pearl white
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 07:29:21 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Suspension & Brakes installation
Hi all,
I'm having rotors,
pads, steel braided brake lines and lowering springs
installed on my '95 R/T
TT. The quotes I'm getting seem a bit high on the
labor and I was
hoping to get some comments from the group. This is all
from the labor
rate guide, but I'm wondering if there isn't some overlap
built in. I
have my own parts.
Springs:
Front 2.6 hrs
Rear 2.8 hrs
Brake hose: (incl.
bleeding)
Front 1.6
hrs
Rear 1.6 hrs
Brake
pads
Front 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew rotors 0.8 hrs
Rear 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew
rotors 0.8 hrs
Total 11.8
hrs
The alignment is supposedly thrown in for free. The rotors are
brand new
Stillen cross drilled. Is it correct to assume they can just
be installed,
or do they have to be turned first?
Thanks for any
comments,
Oskar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 00:12:43 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: ellusive high speed problems
Me too. Tried inserting a
wadded up sock into the opening just in
front of the passenger head rest but
it only muffled the squeal and
started a pounding near the center of the
console which could be felt
on my right side with increasing intensity. after
slowing, there was
complete cold silence.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:23:01 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Boost and octane
Stock car w. intake and Boost controller can safely run
15 PSI on 93 octane
pump gas - right? To what point can I raise the
boost on 100 octane
unleaded without encountering
detonation.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
SAVC-R, K&N FIPK, new NGKs,
Magnecor 8.5
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:36:09 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost and octane
Oskar wrote:
> Stock; intake and Boost
controller can safely run 15 PSI on 93 octane
> pump gas? what
can boost 100 octane
> unleaded without detonation?
>
Oskar '95 R/T TT SAVC-R, K&N, NGK, Magnecor 8.5
I
would say 18-20psi is ok. Maybe more, especially considering you have
stock
turbos and will only be able to go over 20psi for short duration before
turbos
run out of steam at higher rpms...and if you have stock BOV then may
not even get
much beyond 17psi in any case.
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 00:53:05 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bonneville Salt Flats (was Ahh some good news...) -Reply
In a message
dated 4/12/99 6:05:42 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
andrewb@infowest.com
writes:
<< No, we just sort of.. drove out there, there wan't
anything official about
it. In fact
it was apparently
illegal. >>
I have been on the salt twice with no problems. I
didn't know it was illegal!
But I was more low-key. Drove about
three miles north of the sign and the
portapotty before stopping. They
probably can't see you that far out
especially from the interstate. Didn't
go over 90 mph and my fun consisted
mainly of practicing hand brake turns
and bootleg turns (in a rental car, but
washed it anyway). For safety
sake I would recommend that others check out
the route at low speed first as
I saw some chuck holes in the salt as I went
by at 90, but that was a little
west of the track area.
It is BLM land I think, definitely not National
Park. The reason the salt is
thinning is that it is being loaded up
and shipped off. Loss of a national
treasure.
I hope this isn't too
off topic for the group but it is worth the short trip
off of I-80 for any
list members traveling through the area. Satisfies that
need for speed, well
for a little while anyway.
Dennis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 06:43:02 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs
james berry wrote:
>
> >
> >I've just recently purchased a 1992 VR-4 and
absolutely love it. The
> >only thing I've noticed as a problem
is that, at roughly 2500-3500 RPMs,
> >I will occassionally (about once
every 30 times) hear a noise that can
> >best be described as a
"groan." The groan lasts until I pass 3500 RPMs
> >and then disappears.
If I slow down, I usually can't get the groan
> >back
>
>
If you have the HKS filter it sounds like you're talking about the
hooting
> sound that shows up about .5 BAR. As long as you can hold boost
at
> that level you can hear the hooting. I assume its some kind of
resonance
> in the inlet system. Mine started after I installed the FIPK
filter.
I bet James is right and you're hearing the intake resonance
commonly
experienced by those who install aftermarket air intake systems such
as
the FIPK. I had this problem on my car (and got good at sustaining
it!)
and completely eliminated it with a Blitz BOV (the only reason
I
installed it). However, there may be a free fix... as I was
installing
the BOV, I removed the FIPK and saw in the intake the tubes
through
which the stock bypass valve (BPV?) recirculates the air back into
the
intake. The hose from the BPV splits into two small tubes, one
pointed
towards the rear turbo and one towards the front. The ends of
these
tubes are about the size of the mouth of a soda bottle, and since
the
resonance does resemble the sound of air being blown over the mouth of
a
bottle, I bet using a file to change the shape of those tube ends
might
also solve the problem.
If you try this, please let me know if
it works! Would certainly be a
cheaper solution than an aftermarket
BOV. Not that you should make sure
the pieces of plastic filed off do
not end up in the turbos. Good
luck!!
- --
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:35:39 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost and octane
> Stock; intake and Boost controller can
safely run 15 PSI on 93 octane
> pump gas?
Yes, if your engine is
in good health. Please note that any oil in the intake
parts will cause
lowering the octane !!
> what can boost 100 octane unleaded without
detonation?
Around 18psi but I wouldn't go higher but for short spikes.
Also check out the
O2 sensors for any lean situation. Also, you're in a very
high danger to run
into fuel cut (18psi+ if your engine is in good
condition). Furthermore, watch
the IDC as your injectors are getting maxed
out after 15psi and running them
over 95% (or even 90%) for a longer period
can cause damage to them. Last but
not least your fuel pump may run out of
steam too.
My advice, with 100 octane you prevent detonation but your
fuel system is maxing
out. You can run maybe up to 18psi but watch closely O2
and IDC !
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 05:42:37 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Management - Split Second
I forgot who posted it. I
checked out http://www.splitsec.com.
They
make MAF Kits. I asked if they had any plans on making them for
the
3000GT. Here is there response.
-
----------
Chris,
Thank you for the interest in Split Second
products. We are very
interested in producing a kit for the 3000
GT. If you know of someone
located near us please so we could develop a
kit please let me know.
I'm sure it would work out very well and produce
good power.
Thank you,
Eric
- ----------
They are
located in California. Hopefully someone can look into this.
I am in
Michigan so that doesn't help much. This could be a great
solution for
the 94+
cars.
Thanks,
Chris
_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:16:20 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
176mph
Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats should dispell
a
notion discussed in a previous shred: that our cars are NOT
prevented
from exceeding 165mph by a limiter synchronized to a
165mph speedometer
max.
Best
Darc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:33:00 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 176mph- reply
I can tell you right now that _my_ car anyway does
not stop at 165mph, and thats a fact,
I have gone well past 165 on my speedo
twice now. I'm prety sure that the drag is what
stopped me. It
just felt like the car couldn't acclerate anymore. No fuel
cut,
nothing.
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats should dispell a
>
notion discussed in a previous shred: that our cars are NOT
> prevented
from exceeding 165mph by a limiter synchronized to a
> 165mph speedometer
max.
>
> Best
>
> Darc.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:46:03 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
176mph- reply
That's exactly how the adaptive soft speed limiter works in
the VR4 as
explained to me by a ECU guy who worked in Japan on various ECUs
including
the VR4. It isn't a hard speed limiter like a Supra Mk IV for
instance.
When the rate of acceleration drops below a certain point AFTER
155 MPH (or
was it 154?) the adaptive speed limiter stops the car from
accelerating
without any drama just as though you ran out of steam. If
you have the
power to exceed the rate of acceleration the ECU is watching
(whatever that
is), the car will continue to accelerate.
This should
be easy to test actually. Run up to about 154-155 mph and back
off the
throttle just enough to stop accelerating (but not slow down) then
nail the
throttle again. If the soft limiter is indeed working as described
you
should not accelerate past 156 mph.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I can tell you right now that _my_ car anyway does
not stop at
> 165mph, and thats a fact,
> I have gone well past 165
on my speedo twice now. I'm prety sure
> that the drag is
what
> stopped me. It just felt like the car couldn't
acclerate
> anymore. No fuel cut,
> nothing.
>
>
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
>
> > Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats
should dispell a
> > notion discussed in a previous shred: that
our cars are NOT
> > prevented from exceeding 165mph by a limiter
synchronized to a
> > 165mph speedometer max.
> >
> >
Best
> >
> > Darc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:21:02 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 176mph- reply
Well, we are back to the old discussion. It's hard
to find out if we really have
a "soft limiter" but if you can get around this
then for what is it ? I made
over 170mph as well several times and never felt
anything like a limiter. Once I
felt the car will not go faster but a later
dyno showed that I was back on less
than 300 horses.
G-Force, who does
the reprogramming on our ECU do not know anything about a
limiter. Maybe some
countries do have this limiter as our friend in the UK had
to install a speed
governour when he imported it.
Anyways, my EU car does not have a limiter
at all ;-)
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:22:45 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 176mph- reply
All of this has left me wonderign.. WHY?? It's okay
to go fast as long as you can
accelerate quickly? What purpose did this
serve when mitsubishi designed it? Does the
ECU upgrade ie GFORCE
resolve this speed limiter thing?
"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
That's exactly how the adaptive soft speed limiter works in the VR4 as
>
explained to me by a ECU guy who worked in Japan on various ECUs
including
- -snip-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:25:17 -0500
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Drag racing at Rock Falls WI
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to
send out one more e-mail to see if anyone else is interested
in joining the
"Minnesota 3/S" group at Rock Falls Raceway on Sunday, April
18th. So
far we have seven cars that are going to be running (three 3/Ses,
two DSMs,
and two others) If your interested, check out our events page at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/events.html
Later,
Curt
G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:43:42 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
176mph- reply
You'll notice on their web site that they offer the option
of deleting the
speed limiter. This is on the VR4 specific
page.
I have no idea why they would choose this sort of mechanism but it
certainly
explains the observed behavior of various top-end runs. I
also tend to
trust the TechTom people in Japan since they pioneered VR4
ECU
modifications.
If 300 HP was just enough to get the car to
accelerate more or less to 155
MPH but (usually) no more then maybe it makes
sense. Certification for sale
only has to pass whatever contrived tests
governments devise. Maybe there
was some loophole in the Japanese law
that Mitsubishi exploited? Dunno.
Maybe it had something to do with
the way the rules were structured in the
Japanese N-class where the VR4 was
raced for a time. If they couldn't
perform ECU mods but could do things
to add power they would have a top
speed advantage over other cars?
Purely speculation.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> All of this has left me wonderign.. WHY?? It's okay
to go fast as
> long as you can
> accelerate quickly? What
purpose did this serve when mitsubishi
> designed it? Does
the
> ECU upgrade ie GFORCE resolve this speed limiter thing?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:51:15 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wheels and tires
Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car..
a 93 Stealth ES.
I'm note sure what size rims I have, I think they are
16" Is it
possible to run 18"s in the front and 20"s in the rear?
Is this wise as
far a performance and safety? Also, I was thinking
about doing some
lowering springs.. Would a larger size wheel impact this in
any way?
Would there be rubbing?
Leland Gray
93 Stealth
ES
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:59:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheels and tires
My first question is "Why Z-rated?" Unless you
drive _really_ hard (i.e.
autocross or other racing), the Z rating is
overkill for an ES. ("In My
Opinion", of course...) Dropping down
to a V-rated tire will save you
some $$ and give you longer tire life.
As for changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's done
it...
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth
ES
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held it's
ground.
On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, Leland Gray wrote:
> Currently I
am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car.. a 93 Stealth ES.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:02:09 PDT
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: APEXi Super AFC For Sale on Ebay
I found an APEXi Super AFC for
sale on Ebay today. Says its new in
the box never used. I just
bought one so I don't need it. Here is
the link if anyone is
interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=90594639
Chris
_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:02:43 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: eclipse gsx
Curt,
My brother is looking at getting an
eclipse for his wife to drive. I told
him that a used '95+ GS-X is the
way to go. This car would be driven all
year round.
Can you tell
me a little about your experiences so far. Mileage,
reliability, cost
to insure, etc..compared to your stealth(this will give me
something to
compare as well.)
Also, you're driving a '96.... What should he
expect to pay for a similar
car with what kind of
mileage.
Thanks,
Mark
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 12:16:36 -0400
From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wheels and tires
In addition to what Dennis said, by putting
18"s on the front and 20"s on
the back, you lose your ability to rotate your
tires, and the performance
gains (if any) would be small. I would think it
would actually hurt your
handling quite a bit. It would probably cancel out
any handling improvements
you might get from proper lowering
springs.
You indicated that your current tire size was P225/55ZR-16, so
yes, you do
have 16" rims.
Just an opinion, but it sounds like you'd
be spending a lot of money (20"
rims are big $$$) just for looks and actually
hurting your cars performance.
- -Mike
'93 Stealth ES
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dennis Moore
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 12:00 PM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
>
>
> My first question
is "Why Z-rated?" Unless you drive _really_ hard (i.e.
> autocross
or other racing), the Z rating is overkill for an ES. ("In My
>
Opinion", of course...) Dropping down to a V-rated tire will save
you
> some $$ and give you longer tire life.
>
> As for
changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's done it...
>
>
Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth
ES
>
> Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held it's
ground.
>
> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, Leland Gray wrote:
>
>
> Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car.. a 93 Stealth
ES.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:26:36 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Well, I'm back from UPRD in
Huntington Beach, CA, where I installed
the basic beginners package of
components and ran the car on the dyno.
Let me first start with
Accelerated Accessories. They were the ones
I ordered the parts from
initially. They had competitive prices and I liked
how Matt and Frank were
not the type to try to sell me items I didn't need.
Then again, their stock
is pretty minimal and I got the feeling I was
dealing with a middleman to get
my parts. They didn't seem to have anything
actually physically in stock.
Everything was either ordered from some other
place or drop shipped to me
from the distributor. This is obviously not
preferable. Too much chance for
an order to get screwed up since the order
must be repeated to another
company. Fortunately I had a pretty simple
order. They quoted like 2-3 weeks
on the correct plugs that I wanted. Of
course they only told me this AFTER I
had placed the order. When I placed
the order it was with the stipulation
that they get the order to me in a
little over 1 week. I did not want to be
driving down to LA with half my
parts. After much babysitting of the order (I
had to call them once a day to
make sure things were moving on the order) the
majority of the parts came in
one the absolute last day acceptable. The only
thing missing was the pillar
mount gauge pod. This I didn't receive until
yesterday... 5 days late and
completely useless to me now. They neither
offered to refund me the part nor
jumped thru hoops to send me another one
when it had not shown up on
Wednesday with the other parts. I'm not knocking
em... most places would not
jump thru hoops either... but then, that's the
difference between an average
business and a customer oriented business. So
we're talking about an average
business, which is neither good nor bad...
just... average. Matt seemed very
knowledgeable about our cars and what was
needed tho.
Now, I have to be careful about my reporting of UPRD and
their shop.
There were things about the shop that impressed me and things
that
definitely did not. Let me first start by saying that their facilities
are
quite large and they have BIG plans for expansion. If these guys
complete
even HALF of what they say they are working on, we may very well be
looking
at an honest version of GT Alley. They're not even officially open
yet and
they have tons of cars sitting in the shop that they're working on.
Here's
the rundown:
* Big shop. Lots of space. Lots of room for
development. They have plans for
an engine dyno with a remote controlled room
on the other side of the
window. Very impressive.
* Knowledgeable
staff. These guys are good. While down there I saw a yellow
'94 3000GT and I
was pretty impressed. It had a custom fabricated Spearco
intercooler and a
fiberglass hood. It had an VPC and was running at 17psi I
think they said.
The thing ran like a bat outta hell and was pulling in 4th
gear.
*
Nice guys. This may not seem very important, but if you don't get along
with
the guys working on your car, you're not going to be able to
communicate with
them about what you want.
OK... here's the stuff I was NOT impressed with
(sorry UPRD)
* Flaky. I moved the dyno date from the 17th to the 10th to
accommodate the
Long Beach grand prix they said they were attending. The
night I'm leaving
for UPRD I get a call from them telling me they had been
trying to reach me
all week to tell me that the mechanic's dad had been
stricken ill and they
had no mechanic to work on Saturday. The thing is...
the phone number is my
cell phone, which is no farther than 2 feet from my
body 24 hours a day.
Obviously they didn't call me. Anyway, I stressed to the
guy that I had
already made arrangements and reservations for the weekend and
he would be
costing me lots of money if he just decided to cancel the
appointment. I
mean, gimme a break, I'm about to leave in an hour and they're
telling me
it's cancelled!!! They also offered to supply the components for
the install
and never bothered to call me once to confirm the parts or even
to actually
order the parts for me. It was fortunate that I relied on a 3rd
party for
the parts or else it would have definitely been cancelled. They
were quite
vocal of the fact that they were not usually open on Saturdays and
that this
was a favor they were doing by scheduling this for me during the
weekend. In
fact all day Saturday I got the distinct impression that they did
not want
to be there on Saturday, did not want to bother with the car, and
generally
wanted to finish as fast as possible so they could go
home.
* Uncomfortable with equipment. These guys were no doubt great with
a wrench
and I saw some outstanding example of their custom jobs for other
customers.
The problem was with the dyno. They simply did not know how to use
it. It
was new to them and it made me a bit nervous sometimes to see them
forget to
turn the cooling fan on or lower the car when it was time to drive
the car
off the dyno. Javier, the owner, seemed more comfortable with the
dyno and
was able to explain some of its workings, but he was not available
later in
the day and the other guys had to try and figure it out.
*
Dyno. I was unimpressed. This dyno simply sucks, unfortunately. If
you've
ever seen the dyno results from Roger Gerl and the others, you
will
definitely be disappointed. The dyno seems to work well enough, I just
think
it's either a lacking in the software or perhaps the techs are not
using it
correctly. You don't get a dyno chart. You don't get an accurate HP
reading
either. They run your car in 3rd up to 80mph and then, at WOT, the
dyno
equalizes the acceleration force produced by the cars wheels to keep
the
rollers pegged at 80mph. This gives a wheel hp measurement. The 80mph
speed
is held for 3 seconds and then the car is allowed to accelerate to
85,
whereupon it is once again held to 85 by the resistance produced from
the
rollers. Remember, the car is at WOT the whole time during this
procedure! 3
seconds more and it proceeds to 90, where it is held again
before the test
finishes and the driver slows down to a stop. So instead of a
nice graph of
the entire rpm range, all you get is 3 arbitrary speed (not
rpm) points with
the corresponding WHEEL hp. Try making a graph out of that!
This would not
be so bad if the results were accurate. But they're not. They
simply can't
be.
The dyno reported a wheel hp reading of 197 with the
HKS exhaust and
HKS intake. After installing the EGT probe/gauge, boost
gauge, new intake
element, Apexi AVC-R @ 1 bar (BTW, the stock boost was
measured at 7psi!!),
and HKS SBOV, the dyno reported an increase of wheel hp
to 227. What kinda
result is that? I actually called UPRD afterwards and
asked them if perhaps
the dyno was reporting results in KW instead of SAE hp!
No matter how I
slice it, I cannot understand how my car, which has more mods
than either
Mike Chapleski or Jim Matthews cars is reading less power than
both! Those
guys dynoed at 406hp! What the hell am I missing here? Also the
"peak hp"
they reported occurred at 5100-5400! Um... that doesn't make much
sense
either! I should be seeing max hp closer to 6000rpm based on
others'
experiences. I'm still waiting for the guys from UPRD to send me
the
detailed results from the dyno. I'm hoping they don't just forget about
me
now that I've paid my money and went back up north.
* Work. Let me
first say that what these guys DID install worked great,
looks great, and I'm
quite happy with it. Unfortunately, the stuff they
either didn't install or
have the materials to install was a bit of a
disappointment. As I said
earlier, the gauge pod never arrived in time and I
asked them to mount the
gauges in the glove compartment. Except they had no
plastic to mount it
properly, so they laft the guages rolling around in the
glovebox. They also
didn't have the proper gaskets in stock to replace the
plugs and wires. They
decided to not do the plugs and wires without so much
as calling me. I only
learned when I arrived that they had decided not to do
it. Did they knock off
a few bucks in labor since the gauges were
semi-installed and the plugs and
wires were not even attempted? Nope. They
charged me the full quoted amount
for what they did do. I guess I could have
complained, but they're a nice
buncha guys and I didn't start to really
think about it until after I drove
away. A bit late to start thinking about
asking for a discount,
huh?
So... final damage: $720 at UPRD and $1350 at
Accelerated
Accesories.
Will I go back to Accelerated Accesories?
Sorry, no. Too many other
places will likely give better service and fulfill
their promises.
Will I go back to UPRD? Yes. probably. For all their
small problems
this place has tons of potential and some real talented
mechanics. I do hope
they learn how to use their dyno. I'm MORE confused now
about the power my
car is producing than before I had them strap it on the
dyno!! The dyno was
a complete waste of time and money. I had expected them
to use it as a
tuning tool to find the threshold of detonation. Not only did
it not serve
that purpose... it couldn't even tell me how much power the car
is
producing! I'll stick to quoting numbers produced by the dynos near
Roger
Gerl. What would you rather quote as your horsepower: 406 flywheel or
227
wheel??
I'm gonna post some pics of the trip/dyno/shop in the next
few days
for those that are interested.
Seeya!
Dave
Allison
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:28:42 -0500
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Please ignore "Team3S: eclipse gsx"....meant to be private.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 12:41:05 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
wheels and tires -Reply
Uhh, don't take this wrong way, but if you don't
understand that
225/55zr-16 means you have 16inch rims, (notice the 16 on the
end),
you may want to slow up a bit.
For starters, you have a front
wheel drive car, putting 18"s up front and
20"s in the back will make most
people think your an idiot, (those who
know a stealth ES is FWD). 2ndly, if
you have performance in mind, this
is NOT the route you want to go (too many
reasons to list...#1 being
weight). Your talking about roughly $4000 in
wheels and tires going the
route your talking about. For $3000 you can get 4
Volk 17" or 18" rims
and nice tires that will give you immensly better
performance then what
your talking about. (incidentally you would want the
17"s for best
performance on a SL). You also get to rotate that tires since
they are all
the same size.
But if this is strictly looks, well i
dunno, whatever you like :).
Gavin
>>> Leland
Gray <grayda@erols.com> 04/13/99
11:51am >>>
Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car..
a 93 Stealth ES.
I'm note sure what size rims I have, I think they are
16" Is it
possible to run 18"s in the front and 20"s in the rear?
Is this wise as
far a performance and safety? Also, I was thinking
about doing some
lowering springs.. Would a larger size wheel impact this in
any way?
Would there be rubbing?
Leland Gray
93 Stealth
ES
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 10:03:35 -0700
From: "Art Charette K6XT" <k6xt@arrl.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Suspension & Brakes installation
You've definitely got
overlap.
I'd find someone who will give a package price. My mechanic
(when I'm too
lazy) does, I hang out and discuss it with him. If you don't
ask, the answer
is usually no.
It takes 10 or 15 min to put on a new
rotor. Having done that, it takes 5 to
put new pads in the (already removed)
caliper.
A new car dealer will try this trick every time. The 50 bux for
an alignment
sure won't compensate for the flat rate manual.
Art
Charette
k6xt@arrl.net
-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Oskar
Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 5:29 AM
To: Team
3S
Subject: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
Hi
all,
I'm having rotors, pads, steel braided brake lines and lowering
springs
installed on my '95 R/T TT. The quotes I'm getting seem a bit
high on the
labor and I was hoping to get some comments from the group.
This is all
from the labor rate guide, but I'm wondering if there isn't some
overlap
built in. I have my own
parts.
Springs:
Front 2.6
hrs
Rear 2.8 hrs
Brake hose:
(incl. bleeding)
Front 1.6
hrs
Rear 1.6 hrs
Brake
pads
Front 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew rotors 0.8 hrs
Rear 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew
rotors 0.8 hrs
Total 11.8
hrs
The alignment is supposedly thrown in for free. The rotors are
brand new
Stillen cross drilled. Is it correct to assume they can just
be installed,
or do they have to be turned first?
Thanks for any
comments,
Oskar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:10:30 -0400
From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Sheesh!! How hard would it
have been to send one of the boys out to a nearby
Mitsu/Dodge dealer to see
if they had the gaskets in stock?? It's the least
they could have
done.
Memo to shop owners on the list: Stuff like that goes a long way to
help
guarantee return business....or guaranteeing that customers won't
return....
Sorry to hear about your trip!
- -Mike
'93 Stealth
ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dave Allison
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 12:27 PM
>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
>
> * Work. Let me
first say that what these guys DID install worked great,
> looks great,
and I'm quite happy with it. Unfortunately, the stuff they
> either didn't
install or have the materials to install was a bit of a
> disappointment.
As I said earlier, the gauge pod never arrived in
> time and I
>
asked them to mount the gauges in the glove compartment. Except
> they had
no
> plastic to mount it properly, so they laft the guages rolling
>
around in the
> glovebox. They also didn't have the proper gaskets in
stock to replace the
> plugs and wires. They decided to not do the plugs
and wires
> without so much
> as calling me. I only learned when I
arrived that they had
> decided not to do
> it. Did they knock off a
few bucks in labor since the gauges were
> semi-installed and the plugs
and wires were not even attempted? Nope. They
> charged me the full quoted
amount for what they did do. I guess I
> could have
> complained,
but they're a nice buncha guys and I didn't start to really
> think about
it until after I drove away. A bit late to start
> thinking about
>
asking for a discount, huh?
>
> So... final damage: $720 at UPRD and
$1350 at Accelerated
> Accesories.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:28:24 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheels and tires
Dennis,
I thought the exact same thing, but now that
I have the V rated tires, I
wish I hadn't done it. The V rated tires
don't have the traction that
the Z rated tires did. I squeal my
tires 3 out of 4 times leaving a
red light and I am forever getting a
little shifting to second also.
My Z rated tires never did this. I will
be buying Z rated when these
V tires wear out! (Toyo Proxes by the way
Z rated wer T-1 Plus and
the V rated are
FZ94s.)
Regards,
Lynn
Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> My
first question is "Why Z-rated?" Unless you drive _really_ hard
(i.e.
> autocross or other racing), the Z rating is overkill for an
ES. ("In My
> Opinion", of course...) Dropping down to a
V-rated tire will save you
> some $$ and give you longer tire
life.
>
> As for changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's
done it...
>
> Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:44:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
> It takes 10 or 15 min
to put on a new rotor. Having done that, it takes 5 to
> put new pads in
the (already removed) caliper.
Ahem, I've changed the rotors many times
during the last year but 10-15 minutes
is really extremely good. Jacking the
car up, removing the wheels, removing the
pads, removing the two caliper
bolts, replacing the rotor and same step
backwards normally takes about half
an hour. But then the pads are not cleaned,
nor the calipers and I think a
good mechanic does this. BTW, you CANNOT put new
pads in a removed caliper,
otherwise the will fall thru, haha :)
> A new car dealer will try
this trick every time. The 50 bux for an alignment
> sure won't compensate
for the flat rate manual.
It always depends where you live ! COme over to
Europe and you'll search for a
thicker wallet to be able to pay the prices
here.
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual
Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:14:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Dave,
Thank you very much
for your report, and I'm sorry that you've been used by UPRD
to learn more
about their dyno. But welcome to the club ! I just remember our
Supra friend
that tried to dyno his automatic :)
Jim 5680, 79.5, 185,
264.5, 266
Roger
Dave Allison wrote:
>
> Well, I'm back from
UPRD in Huntington Beach, CA, where I installed
> the basic beginners
package of components and ran the car on the dyno.
>
> Let me first start with
Accelerated Accessories. They were the ones
> I ordered the parts from
initially. They had competitive prices and I liked
> how Matt and Frank
were not the type to try to sell me items I didn't need.
> Then again,
their stock is pretty minimal and I got the feeling I was
> dealing with a
middleman to get my parts. They didn't seem to have anything
> actually
physically in stock. Everything was either ordered from some other
> place
or drop shipped to me from the distributor. This is obviously not
>
preferable. Too much chance for an order to get screwed up since the
order
> must be repeated to another company. Fortunately I had a pretty
simple
> order. They quoted like 2-3 weeks on the correct plugs that I
wanted. Of
> course they only told me this AFTER I had placed the order.
When I placed
> the order it was with the stipulation that they get the
order to me in a
> little over 1 week. I did not want to be driving down
to LA with half my
> parts. After much babysitting of the order (I had to
call them once a day to
> make sure things were moving on the order) the
majority of the parts came in
> one the absolute last day acceptable. The
only thing missing was the pillar
> mount gauge pod. This I didn't receive
until yesterday... 5 days late and
> completely useless to me now. They
neither offered to refund me the part nor
> jumped thru hoops to send me
another one when it had not shown up on
> Wednesday with the other parts.
I'm not knocking em... most places would not
> jump thru hoops either...
but then, that's the difference between an average
> business and a
customer oriented business. So we're talking about an average
> business,
which is neither good nor bad... just... average. Matt seemed very
>
knowledgeable about our cars and what was needed tho.
>
> Now, I have to be
careful about my reporting of UPRD and their shop.
> There were things
about the shop that impressed me and things that
> definitely did not. Let
me first start by saying that their facilities are
> quite large and they
have BIG plans for expansion. If these guys complete
> even HALF of what
they say they are working on, we may very well be looking
> at an honest
version of GT Alley. They're not even officially open yet and
> they have
tons of cars sitting in the shop that they're working on. Here's
> the
rundown:
>
> * Big shop. Lots of space. Lots of room for
development. They have plans for
> an engine dyno with a remote controlled
room on the other side of the
> window. Very impressive.
>
>
* Knowledgeable staff. These guys are good. While down there I saw a
yellow
> '94 3000GT and I was pretty impressed. It had a custom fabricated
Spearco
> intercooler and a fiberglass hood. It had an VPC and was running
at 17psi I
> think they said. The thing ran like a bat outta hell and was
pulling in 4th
> gear.
>
> * Nice guys. This may not seem
very important, but if you don't get along
> with the guys working on your
car, you're not going to be able to
> communicate with them about what you
want.
>
> OK... here's the stuff I was NOT impressed with (sorry
UPRD)
>
> * Flaky. I moved the dyno date from the 17th to the 10th
to accommodate the
> Long Beach grand prix they said they were attending.
The night I'm leaving
> for UPRD I get a call from them telling me they
had been trying to reach me
> all week to tell me that the mechanic's dad
had been stricken ill and they
> had no mechanic to work on Saturday. The
thing is... the phone number is my
> cell phone, which is no farther than
2 feet from my body 24 hours a day.
> Obviously they didn't call me.
Anyway, I stressed to the guy that I had
> already made arrangements and
reservations for the weekend and he would be
> costing me lots of money if
he just decided to cancel the appointment. I
> mean, gimme a break, I'm
about to leave in an hour and they're telling me
> it's cancelled!!! They
also offered to supply the components for the install
> and never bothered
to call me once to confirm the parts or even to actually
> order the parts
for me. It was fortunate that I relied on a 3rd party for
> the parts or
else it would have definitely been cancelled. They were quite
> vocal of
the fact that they were not usually open on Saturdays and that this
> was
a favor they were doing by scheduling this for me during the weekend. In
>
fact all day Saturday I got the distinct impression that they did not
want
> to be there on Saturday, did not want to bother with the car, and
generally
> wanted to finish as fast as possible so they could go
home.
>
> * Uncomfortable with equipment. These guys were no doubt
great with a wrench
> and I saw some outstanding example of their custom
jobs for other customers.
> The problem was with the dyno. They simply did
not know how to use it. It
> was new to them and it made me a bit nervous
sometimes to see them forget to
> turn the cooling fan on or lower the car
when it was time to drive the car
> off the dyno. Javier, the owner,
seemed more comfortable with the dyno and
> was able to explain some of
its workings, but he was not available later in
> the day and the other
guys had to try and figure it out.
>
> * Dyno. I was unimpressed.
This dyno simply sucks, unfortunately. If you've
> ever seen the dyno
results from Roger Gerl and the others, you will
> definitely be
disappointed. The dyno seems to work well enough, I just think
> it's
either a lacking in the software or perhaps the techs are not using it
>
correctly. You don't get a dyno chart. You don't get an accurate HP
reading
> either. They run your car in 3rd up to 80mph and then, at WOT,
the dyno
> equalizes the acceleration force produced by the cars wheels to
keep the
> rollers pegged at 80mph. This gives a wheel hp measurement. The
80mph speed
> is held for 3 seconds and then the car is allowed to
accelerate to 85,
> whereupon it is once again held to 85 by the
resistance produced from the
> rollers. Remember, the car is at WOT the
whole time during this procedure! 3
> seconds more and it proceeds to 90,
where it is held again before the test
> finishes and the driver slows
down to a stop. So instead of a nice graph of
> the entire rpm range, all
you get is 3 arbitrary speed (not rpm) points with
> the corresponding
WHEEL hp. Try making a graph out of that! This would not
> be so bad if
the results were accurate. But they're not. They simply can't
>
be.
>
> The dyno
reported a wheel hp reading of 197 with the HKS exhaust and
> HKS intake.
After installing the EGT probe/gauge, boost gauge, new intake
> element,
Apexi AVC-R @ 1 bar (BTW, the stock boost was measured at 7psi!!),
> and
HKS SBOV, the dyno reported an increase of wheel hp to 227. What kinda
>
result is that? I actually called UPRD afterwards and asked them if
perhaps
> the dyno was reporting results in KW instead of SAE hp! No
matter how I
> slice it, I cannot understand how my car, which has more
mods than either
> Mike Chapleski or Jim Matthews cars is reading less
power than both! Those
> guys dynoed at 406hp! What the hell am I missing
here? Also the "peak hp"
> they reported occurred at 5100-5400! Um... that
doesn't make much sense
> either! I should be seeing max hp closer to
6000rpm based on others'
> experiences. I'm still waiting for the guys
from UPRD to send me the
> detailed results from the dyno. I'm hoping they
don't just forget about me
> now that I've paid my money and went back up
north.
>
> * Work. Let me first say that what these guys DID
install worked great,
> looks great, and I'm quite happy with it.
Unfortunately, the stuff they
> either didn't install or have the
materials to install was a bit of a
> disappointment. As I said earlier,
the gauge pod never arrived in time and I
> asked them to mount the gauges
in the glove compartment. Except they had no
> plastic to mount it
properly, so they laft the guages rolling around in the
> glovebox. They
also didn't have the proper gaskets in stock to replace the
> plugs and
wires. They decided to not do the plugs and wires without so much
> as
calling me. I only learned when I arrived that they had decided not to
do
> it. Did they knock off a few bucks in labor since the gauges
were
> semi-installed and the plugs and wires were not even attempted?
Nope. They
> charged me the full quoted amount for what they did do. I
guess I could have
> complained, but they're a nice buncha guys and I
didn't start to really
> think about it until after I drove away. A bit
late to start thinking about
> asking for a discount, huh?
>
> So... final damage:
$720 at UPRD and $1350 at Accelerated
> Accesories.
>
> Will I go back to
Accelerated Accesories? Sorry, no. Too many other
> places will likely
give better service and fulfill their promises.
>
> Will I go back to UPRD?
Yes. probably. For all their small problems
> this place has tons of
potential and some real talented mechanics. I do hope
> they learn how to
use their dyno. I'm MORE confused now about the power my
> car is
producing than before I had them strap it on the dyno!! The dyno was
> a
complete waste of time and money. I had expected them to use it as a
>
tuning tool to find the threshold of detonation. Not only did it not
serve
> that purpose... it couldn't even tell me how much power the car
is
> producing! I'll stick to quoting numbers produced by the dynos near
Roger
> Gerl. What would you rather quote as your horsepower: 406 flywheel
or 227
> wheel??
>
> I'm gonna post some
pics of the trip/dyno/shop in the next few days
> for those that are
interested.
>
> Seeya!
>
> Dave Allison
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual
Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:20:05 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
SORRRY !!
The last email
was sent during a dead Nescape email crap. The correct one will
follow soon
:)
Again. I'm very sorry for this.
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:11:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Dave,
Thank you very
much for your report, and I'm sorry that you've been used by UPRD
to learn
more about their dyno. But welcome to the club ! I just remember our
Supra
friend that tried to dyno his automatic :)
Regarding your dyno
number these are the numbers from Jim, Mike and me
:
rpm loss wheel
fly DIN
Mike 6230, 78.0, 184, 262.0, 264
Jim 5680, 79.5, 185, 264.5, 266
Roger 5450, 73.5, 188, 261.5,
263
The figures are in kW. Taking your wheel reading of 197 (I come to
the 227
later) these are 147kW, only around 39kW (52.3hp) less than our
readings. Using
a loss of around 77.0kW this equals to around 300hp flywheel
uncorrected. Trying
to correct it to SAE results in 337hp SAE. As the
correction factor is more
wrong in the "lower" hp area you'll read around
330hp SAE. A 10hp gain with
intake and exhaust... well, let's say only the
intake and a good engine as the
exhaust dosn't help anything in this boost
area. My calculations assume your
wheel readings are not corrected to
anything.
Now, I'm a little bit confused about the S-AVCR. You say that
you've set it to
1.00 bars but have you driven it around a while to let it
learn the proper curve
? Also you haven't said anything about the boost the
meter peaked on the dyno
and this is the first important thing. The second
one are the EGT readings and
finally readings of the intake temperatures for
the comparison would be great
too.
Ok, let's take the 227hp now that
equals in 169.3kW, +77kW loss = 246.3kW (~16kW
less than we had). Now with
the correction factor this results in 370hp SAE
flywheel.
Analysing
the given data from you tells me the following story :
1. As your max
power was around 5100-5400 the BC has not finished to learn.
Correct me if I'm wrong but these are typical indicies for this.
2. Your
reading could be ok as the non-stock exhaust hurts more than it
really
helps. It would be very important to see the torque data
(curve) as well as
the power curve in the 5500 region.
3.
If the timing got retarded after 5400 it's possible that the engine
is
running in early detonation causing to lower the power
then.
4. If the dyno is the problem than extrapolate your reading to our
curves and
you'll end around 382hp SAE at 5500-5600. This is
absolutely possible and
not inaccurate if your boost readings on
the meter was ok.
Here the non-tech stuff :
> Will I go back to
Accelerated Accesories? Sorry, no. Too many other
> places will likely
give better service and fulfill their promises.
Not a lot people or shops
do understand the power of the Internet and the list.
I hope Matt & Frank
will taking care of you as they will loose their reputation
pretty quick. I
just remember the GT Alley thing and how fast his name got bad,
very bad
!
That's it on this thing as we all know that flame-wars are not allowed
on the
list but informing us about the experience (good and bad) is helpful
to other
buyers.
Again, thanks for the
information.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/
tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:23:34 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Seating
Hey everyone:
I got a sparco seat catalog and I was flipping
through it I didn't realize
they sell allot of stuff from brakes to clothing
to seats. What I noticed
though they sell adjustable strut braces for more
than 140 applications. I
saw one in the catalog that just may work for our
cars with the hood
clearance were it sinks down and then bends around to
accommodate what on
our cars would be the intake plenum. I'm curious if
anyone else has tried to
do this with these braces???
92 3000 GTO
MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:34:08 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
My local brake and
muffler shop just charged me $35 (all labor, no
materials) to do the
following:
1. Remove all four wheels.
2. Check rear pads
3. Remove
front rotor, replace broken wheel stud (I supplied)
4. Install new carbon
metallic pads (I supplied) in front -- while doing
this, he
cleaned all the little parts, ground down the edges on the old
carbon
metallic pads that came out (so I can use them for backup pads),
and
reassembled everything.
5. Bleed all four brakes, fill up with Racing
Blue (I supplied). Lots of
evil black stuff came out, mostly from the
calipers. Guess we cook even the
racing fluid, eh? (We put in Racing Blue
last year).
6. Hand-tighten the wheel lugs, then torque (with a real wrench,
not an air
tool) to 100 in-lb.
Total elapsed time: 1.5 hr.
I
usually have the brake shop install new pads prior to an event, because
I
feel spending $35 3-4 times per year is a good investment. That way,
a pro
looks at the braking system on a regular basis. I can handle a
brake job
when necessary (I installed the new PowerSlot rotors, for
example),
especially at trackside, and I've had the system apart a few times
whilst
installing the cooling ducts.
Like most road racers, I carry a
complete brake tool kit with me to events
(spare rotors, pads, fluid, huge
channel locks, small channel locks, torque
wrench, drain hose for bleeding,
etc.) It's a useful skill to have when you
road race.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:26:17 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 176mph- reply
> You'll notice on their web site that they
offer the option of deleting the
> speed limiter. This is on the VR4
specific page.
Yes, Barry is right and I didn't knew this. ALso the speed
limiter is disabled
by default and the only option is to rise the rpm limiter
(the most dangerous
thing)
Sorry for the confusing (I should stop work
so much)
Later,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:05:13 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 176mph- reply
I don't think there is a speed limiter which
exists in the VR-4's ECU.
I've heard of many people in Japan running to
280km/h to 300km/h+
without modifying the ECU. The only modifications would
exist in the VPC
and additional fuel control, while using the the stock ECU
and an F-CON
unit. I have heard that the car has severe drag limitation at
300 km/h
though.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:44:45 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
Don't know much about the
brakes, but when a friend of mine had his
reprogrammed ECU installed and
springs installed (all four corners), the
total labor time charge for the two
was 2.75 hours. However an alignment
was not included.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:14:51 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
wheels and tires
Thanks for all the replies.. I thought that larger
wheels meant better handling and
better performance.. So would there be
a significant difference in going with a larger
rim and lower profile
tires? Right now, after thinking, I think I'm gonna go with
17's.
The previous owner has always had ZR's on there, and that's what was on it when
I
bought it. I'd kinda like to stick with the ZR's, because of the
performance.. Has
anyone out there delt with, I think its this, the Nitto 555
or something like that,
that's supposed to be the #1 Z rated tire with 69%
tread touching at all times? Here
are some wheels that I'm interested
in:
O.Z. Monte Carlo chrome 17 x 8"
O.Z. Competition 18 x 9"
Mille
Miglia Emotion 17 x 8"
Fittipaldi AV3 17 x 8"
TRMotorsport Sniper 17 x
8"
What do you guys think of these? Anthing else I should look
at..? I also like the
Enkei WUN-GUN
wheels....
Leland
Leland Gray wrote:
> Currently I am
running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car.. a 93 Stealth ES.
> I'm note sure
what size rims I have, I think they are 16" Is it
> possible to run
18"s in the front and 20"s in the rear? Is this wise as
> far a
performance and safety? Also, I was thinking about doing some
>
lowering springs.. Would a larger size wheel impact this in any way?
>
Would there be rubbing?
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth
ES
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:40:49 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 176mph- reply
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Tuesday, April 13, 1999 1:26 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 176mph- reply
> You'll notice on their web site that
they offer the option of deleting the
> speed limiter. This is on
the VR4 specific page.
Yes, Barry is right and I didn't knew this. ALso
the speed limiter is
disabled
by default and the only option is to rise
the rpm limiter (the most
dangerous
thing)
Sorry for the confusing
(I should stop work so
much)
Later,
Roger
===============================
Roger, et.
al...
Just a clarification, since I just had my ECU upgraded by G-force.
You have
to sign a paper to have you rev limiter changed (to absolve them of
any
responsibility). There are two choices, adjust it to a higher limit,
or
remove it completely.
BTW...one of their claims is the removal of a
speed limiter. Since I've
never hit it, I don't know if it was really there
or not. Speedometer error
could account for some of the observed (but not
measured) speeds that are
above 159mph (which I believe is what Car &
Driver reported as max speed for
a stock VR4).
I'm hoping to find a
smooth enough surface to break the 180mph mark. :-)
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:31:58 -0500
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Exhaust Tips for Stealth
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE85F5.0F911280
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hi All, Does anybody have FACTORY exhaust tips that will
fit my 1992 =
Dodge Stealth R/T
I am switching from single to dual
exhaust. Let me no how much you want =
for them. Thanks Ken
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE85F5.0F911280
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi All,
Does anybody have FACTORY =
exhaust tips=20
that will fit my 1992 Dodge
Stealth R/T</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I am switching from single to dual =
exhaust. Let=20
me no how
much you want for them. Thanks
Ken</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE85F5.0F911280--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:06:28 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Suspension & Brakes installation - Roger
>It always depends where
you live ! COme over to Europe and you'll search
for a
>thicker wallet
to be able to pay the prices here.
>
Roger, I know firsthand about
prices in Europe. I was born and raised in
Sweden. When I was a
young boy, the men used to carry those disco looking
handbags that you carry
by the wrist. I thought it was because they wanted
to be cool, after
all this was in the 70's. In reality it was just so they
could carry
enough cash to pay for a couple packs of smokes and gas :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #151
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