--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #148
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest
Saturday, April 10 1999 Volume
01 : Number
148
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 00:02:10 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
Locate the MFI relays fuse (I think No.1 at
the front pass side, 20A) and pull
it. This will disable any fuel related
devices but the starter should still
work. Note, this will not releave fuel
pressure from the lines.
> > On my Eclipse there is a fuse under
the hood labeled "MPI." I think the
> > 3000GT has the same fuse,
but I'm too lazy to go outside and look. Check
> > for that fuse
and if you find it, pull it. Then you can do a compression
> >
test or whatever without fuel spraying everywhere.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 23:12:48 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno testing
I double this as I'll even do the temp checking on
the road.
At our dyno session the weather was cold and the loss of
intercooling efficiency
was compensated with an open hood and air intake
temperature around max 10°C. Of
course if you drive at this temps then the
air is cooler on the road but our
test was like driving around 20°C outside
temp.
Dave, please check out the dyno manufacturer and software version.
Also let them
reconrd raw wheel hp and the correct curve as well. Finally set
boost to 1.00
bars max before you crank it up to find the level where the
timing gets
retarded.
Good luck and a lot of fun,
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 23:44:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
The more
boost, the more fuel and the higher octane you need ! This are key
factors as
well as the pistons and rings are. You can run 20psi on the stock
turbos for
sure but will your rings still be alive afterwards ?
This is why I just
don't understand who started this thread with "stock turbos".
The turbos are
not the first limitation and adding a bigger turbo will increase
the
volumetric efficiency as well as it will able to hold boost at the
higher
rpms. But there are much more weaker elements, like injectors, pump
and of
course the ECU that can be changed without touching the
turbos.
> 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second
monster...$14,000
Injectors = $1000
Pump = $400
Boost controller =
not necessary, just remove the vacuum line from the
wastegate controllers (do
not do this on the street)
VPC = $850 (removes the MAS = more air)
Filter
= $200 (like Blitz SUS)
Gutting precats = free
Dowpipe with testpipe =
$350
Cat-Back = who needs this ? Just run one 3" pipe from the test-pipe and
add a
mini muffler if really necessary (rules?) = $350
Race Gas = I don't
know how much.
This are $3150 and if you are running with 116 octane
you'd be able to reach
20psi without a big danger.
> Thermo
Wrap...everything the entire IC piping setup
Does not really help as the
piping will be heated up from the ambient. I'd
believe in this if somebody is
really making temp measurments and sees 1°C lower
temps.
>
NOS?
No, not at this moment because running on the juice is another world
and you'd
get a small mark on the best of the best lists.
> New
fold-up plexigalss headlights with cold air intake
Remove the lights
fully and add a snorkel to the right opening.
> New Seats 8 lbs
each
You only need one seat :)
> Remove all Interior I can get
away with
> Remove:
> Cruise
Control
> AC unit
>
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
> All sound
deadenanig material
Remove the sunroof if you have one. Also the stock
exhaust is very heavy ...
replace it with the stuff described. Next, open the
door sills and remove the
heavy crash bars that should guard you from side
impacts. If you want to stripe
more, get some very lightweight wheels (mucho
$$)
> Some questions on the following...
> Running with _NO_
hood?
Umpf, not sure but it would look too crazy :)
Next steps
would be :
- - Replace all fuel lines from the tank to the rails =
$500
- - Big adjustable fuel pressure regulator = $150
- - Big high flow
fuel filter = $90
- - Rework the fuel rails for the bigger flow = ~$300
-
- Replace the small pipe that conencts the rails with a big one = ~$100
- -
Add bigger intercoolers and hard IC pipes = ~$2500
- - Change ECU = $850
-
- Water/Alcohol injection (not NOS but cools down chamber) = $800
- - for
sure here bigger turbos would do a lot in delivering the appropriate
amount
of air :) = $2000
- - Biiig clutch = $450 (hehe)
This nets in ~$7650
plus the first ~$3200 gives you a damn fast, scary,
explosive AWD rocket for
"only" $11000.
Well, I don't know how long the tranny will last then as
well as labour is not
included.
Happy modding,
Roger
-
----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads ... and Gremlins
too
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 17:31:27 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Records for stock turbos?
> The more boost, the more fuel and the
higher octane you need !
> This are key factors as well as the pistons and
rings are. You
> can run 20psi on the stock turbos for sure but will your
rings
> still be alive afterwards ?
Can you explain what you mean
about the rings? I don't understand why the
rings would care if you are
running stock turbos or larger turbos... If you
are running 20 psi on
stock turbos or upgrades, the pistons/rings only see
20 psi of "preload" in
the cylinder. Or did you mean that a lack of fuel at
20 psi would cause
detonation and take out the rings?
- -Matt
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 16:50:17 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Records for stock turbos?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
Sent: Friday,
April 09, 1999 3:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Records for stock turbos?
> The more boost, the more
fuel and the higher octane you need !
> This are key factors as well as
the pistons and rings are. You
> can run 20psi on the stock turbos for
sure but will your rings
> still be alive afterwards ?
Can you
explain what you mean about the rings? I don't understand why the
rings
would care if you are running stock turbos or larger turbos... If
you
are running 20 psi on stock turbos or upgrades, the pistons/rings only
see
20 psi of "preload" in the cylinder. Or did you mean that a lack of
fuel at
20 psi would cause detonation and take out the rings?
-
-Matt
===========================
Matt...
Correct...at least one
member (Roger) has lost his rings due to detonation.
Primary cause: too
much boost
Secondary cause: engine runs too lean.
Tertiary cause: the
engine is so well insulated, and your screaming (due to
20 psi boost) drowns
out the sound of detonation. You never even know it's
happening until
something breaks. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier
Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished
throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost
controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front mounted
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 01:51:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
> So
basicly 15 psi is the max you can go without detonation even with
> big
injectors, fuel pump etc. on pump gas? Any updates on the water
>
injection?
Well, you can "dump" in a lot fuel to cool down the combustion
chamber. This
will alow you to increase boost but you'll run way too rich
then and do not make
the power you are looking for. Also the too large amount
of fuel compared to the
delivered air is washing out the cylinder walls and
the rings will wear out
sooner than expected. Fighting against our enemy
called detonation can done by
reducing intake temperature or increasing the
octane rating. The last is not
only done with a 1 or 2 point booster as for
18psi of boost you'll need about
112 octane. I only recall this figure but I
haven't the formula handy. I think
Barry was very helpful on this
:)
The WI uses the water to remove the heat from the intake air and with
this it
provides detonation resistance like fuel up to 140 octanes. Of course
the system
will be tuned in to deliver the appropriate amount needed for the
application.
Therefore more water is needed for a 20psi setup than for a
15psi and this can
be done by the different jets delivered with the kits.
Racing fuel with 120
octane is more efficient than a WI system with pump gas
boosted up to 120 octane
with it. This because the fuel can be burnt and
produces energy while the water
just enters the chamber as a steam and
therefore lowers the total energy. At
this point, adding more fuel can be
delivered that will be burnt at higher
pressures.
The water injection
will be my way for sure but it's a little bit a problem of
my wallet at the
moment. Also, Mikael just wrote me about the new "Haligator"
from Haltech. It
is a boost controller with many accessoires function that also
can control a
water inejction system based upon MAP, rpm and other values. This
may reduce
the inital WI system cost but first I have to know what this
thing
costs.
So you see that only adding a WI system doesn't help a
lot because our cars fuel
system is at its end pretty soon. After upgrading
this parts the WI system does
it's job very effective as I can't drive the
whole time with racing gas.
Expensive and waste of money. The WI system kicks
in when preventing detonation
is needed and this is good to know
then.
Due to ERL I'd be able to run 1.2 to 1.3 bars of boost with the
upgraded fuel
parts and the basic WI system. If the pistons and rings can
withstand this
pressure is written on another paper.
> Every
one of your posts is a learning experience for me. Thanks for
>
sharing your knowledge with me and everyone on the list.
Oh, this belongs
to everyone on teh list and there are a lot more with much more
experience
than I have.
Later (better said tomorrow)
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 01:51:37 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Records for stock turbos?
> Can you explain what you mean
about the rings? I don't understand why the
> rings would care if
you are running stock turbos or larger turbos...
I meant this related to
the boost and bigger turbos can mean more boost.
> If you are running
20 psi on stock turbos or upgrades, the pistons/rings
> only see 20 psi of
"preload" in the cylinder.
You say "only", but what do the rings and
ringlands think of this power ? Are
they designed to withstand this preloaded
and finally produced pressure in the
chamber ? Unfortunately not and a new
"stock" words comes up : stock
pistons/rings.
Detonation can occur
allover the rpm band but it's mostly seen around the peak
power (5600 on
ours). As our cars rev up so quick when boost is up the area is
stepped
thrugh pretty quick in the lower gears. At this time, a huge pressure
can
produce a "kick" to the piston that may result in breaking. This happended
to
three of mine and all on the same side. The parts looked as they where
broken
due to a extreme short but heavy kick from the chamber. An ultra-lean
condition
would more produce bad things to the upper piston area but they
still looked
pretty good. The ringlands are also a critical part when
increasing boost. This
is why forged pistons do have a thicker and therefore
stronger design in that
area. Just compare the JE pistons to the stock ones.
Also compare the stock
rings to really good ones and you'll
understand.
> Or did you mean that a lack of fuel at
> 20 psi
would cause detonation and take out the rings?
As mentioned in the other
message, too much fuel can wash out the walls and
causing too much ring-wear.
But detonation will hurt them also for sure. But
often more fuel doesn't
really help as also more octane is needed to really
prevent the
enemy.
Later,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 15:55:28 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Stock turbo 11's
buildup
I truly believe that it is possible. Adam went 12.32 full
exhaust,
boost controller, intake, and an AFC. Mike ,from what I know,
had
nothing too fancy, and I've personally seen a 12.6 on pump gas with a
bleeder
valve, air filter, and gutted main cat.
You need good weather
conditions, a good launch, good 60ft. time, and
good shifts.
No major
overkill is needed if you get those 4 things. No major
weight
reduction, probably just spare, jack, and tools.
I think it can be
done with a full 3" exhaust including gutted cats.
A boost controller running
17 to 20 psi (crank 'er up till fuel cut)
A big filter such as K&N
Aircharger
And some fuel mods- AFC(maybe a VPC, possibly 550 injectors if you
are
running out of juice up top, and a high flow pump.
I think that is
what it takes, remember driving skill is all the
difference in the
world!
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 20:53:57 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Stock
turbo 11's buildup
When you mention a "good 60 foot time" in order to do
11's...
It may be possible, but it will be a GREAT FEAT!
Consider that our
fastest cars (without Nitrous) are doing 1.69 The Great Bob
Fontana,
Jack
T. at 1.70 (wow, I matched superman's time) and Adam at 1.71 are all
doing
11's.
Then consider that Jack T our very own legend number ONE car with
Nitrous is
only 2/10's better at 1.5 and think of the power it takes to do
these times.
These cars are truly MONSTERS in the HP dept. With good
drivers (dare I say
great). It will be no walk in the park to get a stock
car into the 11's
without juice. Maybe with Helium in your tires.:)
Go
for it! I think its possible with serious weight reduction.
Arty 91
VR-4
In a message dated 4/9/99 8:11:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pearlvr42c@juno.com
writes:
<< ubj: Team3S: Re: Stock turbo 11's buildup
Date:
4/9/99 8:11:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: pearlvr42c@juno.com (Del A
Kolasinski)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
I truly believe that it is possible. Adam went 12.32
full
exhaust, boost controller, intake, and an AFC. Mike ,from
what I know,
had nothing too fancy, and I've personally seen a 12.6 on
pump gas with a
bleeder valve, air filter, and gutted main cat.
You need good weather conditions, a good launch, good 60ft. time,
and
good shifts.
No major overkill is needed if you get those
4 things. No major weight
reduction, probably just spare, jack,
and tools.
I think it can be done with a full 3" exhaust including
gutted cats.
A boost controller running 17 to 20 psi (crank 'er up till
fuel cut)
A big filter such as K&N Aircharger
And some
fuel mods- AFC(maybe a VPC, possibly 550 injectors if you are
running
out of juice up top, and a high flow pump.
I think that is what it
takes, remember driving skill is all the
difference in the
world!
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 23:03:58 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S:
overheating, NA 92 r/t
Well i've finally hit my first big problem with my
car. I was driving along
around 40 MPH, check engine light comes on and took
a look at my temp gauge.
GREAT! the needle is sitting in the red! I also saw
that the oil pressure
was slowly going down. I drove about a block, found
somewhere to park and
shut her off. Everything seems fine, other then it
being VERY hot! Oil level
was fine, no leaks under the car. Then i looked at
the coolant overflow
bottle. It looks like coolant had leaked out of the
overflow tube. Only a
couple drops on the pavement. The frame of the car
immediately below the
bottle was also wet. I took the cap of the bottle, and
coolant was slowly
steaming out. Also, before i shut the car off, i ran the
heater full blast,
my lame attempt at trying to cool the engine. absolutely
no heat came out at
all. Maybe the coolant wasnt flowing through the heater
core?
The check engine light doesn't come on anymore, and i was able to drive
the
car about a block to my office after letting it cool for three hours.
Didn't
run long enough for the needle to get higher then the very last line
on the
temp gauge. Any insight might be helpful if this has happened to
anyone else
before. What would the general consensus be here? Water pump?
Could it be
anything else? clogged radiator or water hose somewhere? Should i
try and
figure out the check engine error code? Should be getting my manuals
back in
a couple days, maybe that will help. Should i take it to the dealer?
I
really have NO money to spend right now, i hope it's something
simple.
Thanks,
Omar
92 r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 00:22:03 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Records for stock turbos?
Roger,
In reading about the epic battle
between more boost and the lack of
octane to prevent detonation and the use
of water injection (this was
used on WWII piston fighter planes), I was
suddenly struck with absence
of what was supposed to be the savior of the
seventies during the feul
crisis: alcohol, or more specifically, methanol.
Isn't this how the Indy
cars get around this quandry when ringing all that
horsepower out of
those tiny little engines. I know the mileage is
horrible and there are
issues with compatability between methanol and certain
materials used
along the feul path, but doesn't it deliver very high octane??
(I am
speaking qualitatively. I have no idea what the numbers
are
quantitavely.) And isn't it very, very
cheap?
Regards,
Lynn
"R.G." wrote:
> As mentioned in
the other message, too much fuel can wash out the walls and
> causing too
much ring-wear. But detonation will hurt them also for sure. But
> often
more fuel doesn't really help as also more octane is needed to really
>
prevent the enemy.
>
> Later,
> Roger
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 21:21:47 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
overheating, NA 92 r/t
>Well i've finally hit my first big problem
with my car. I was driving along
>around 40 MPH, check engine light comes
on and took a look at my temp
gauge.
>GREAT! the needle is sitting in
the red! I also saw that the oil pressure
>was slowly going down. I drove
about a block, found somewhere to park and
>shut her off. Everything seems
fine, other then it being VERY hot! Oil
level
>was fine, no leaks under
the car. Then i looked at the coolant overflow
>bottle. It looks like
coolant had leaked out of the overflow tube. Only a
>couple drops on the
pavement.
sounds like it might be as simple as a stuck thermostat
---- sudden onset
of problem usually means it's not radiator. Belts are a
possibility, but
sense we have a serpentine belt there would be other
indications --
alternator, A/C, power steering. Another possibility is water
pump but
they usually give advance notice of failure e.g. leaking. The cheap
fix
and easy fix is thermostat.
good luck --- Jim
berry 93 TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 23:39:15 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
overheating, NA 92 r/t
> sounds like it might be as simple as a stuck
thermostat ---- sudden onset
> of problem usually means it's not radiator.
Belts are a possibility, but
> sense we have a serpentine belt there would
be other indications --
> alternator, A/C, power steering. Another
possibility is water pump but
> they usually give advance notice of
failure e.g. leaking. The cheap fix
> and easy fix is
thermostat.
>
> good luck --- Jim berry 93
TT
Thanks for the quick response Jim, i'll look into these things in
the
morning. I really hope it's only the thermostat. If the thermostat
didn't
open, would that mean coolant wouldn't flow? Maybe that explains no
heat out
of the vents? This happened after driving for about an hour. If
the
thermostat failed, wouldn't it fail in the open position?I'll let you
guys
know tommorrow. Thanks again for you're help. Don't know what i'd do
without
this list.
Omar
92 r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 00:44:10 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil leak
I've just recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and
noticed oil on
the ground just in front of the left front tire. I
thought it was
leaking from the oil filter as it' in the same area so today I
changed
the oil and filter and cleaned the area around it. I've driven
the car
a bit and noticed that it's still leaking oil in the same
place. I
haven't had a chance to get underneath it yet, but I was
wondering if
this might be a known problem with a simple and inexpensive
solution (oh
please, please, PLEASE!) For what it's worth, the leak
seems to be in
FRONT of the oil pan, but I won't know for sure until I get
the car up
in the air and can really examine
it.
Thanks!
Randy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 00:48:44 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Leak
I've just
recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
oil on the ground
just
in front of the left front tire. I thought it was
leaking from the oil
filter as it' in the same area so today I changed
the oil and filter and
cleaned the area around it. I've driven the car
a bit and noticed that
it's still leaking oil in the same place. I
haven't had a chance to get
underneath it yet, but I was wondering if
this might be a known problem with
a simple and inexpensive solution (oh
please, please, PLEASE!) For what
it's worth, the leak seems to be in
FRONT and to the left of the oil pan, but
I won't know for sure until I
get the car up
in the air and can really
examine it. Any
suggestions??
Thanks!
Randy
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 22:07:24 -0700
From: jsp <jsp@rancho.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
overheating, NA 92 r/t
thermostat....?......mine did that about a month
ago
Omar Malik wrote:
> Well i've finally hit my first big
problem with my car. I was driving along
> around 40 MPH, check engine
light comes on and took a look at my temp gauge.
> GREAT! the needle is
sitting in the red! I also saw that the oil pressure
> was slowly going
down. I drove about a block, found somewhere to park and
> shut her off.
Everything seems fine, other then it being VERY hot! Oil level
> was fine,
no leaks under the car. Then i looked at the coolant overflow
> bottle. It
looks like coolant had leaked out of the overflow tube. Only a
> couple
drops on the pavement. The frame of the car immediately below the
> bottle
was also wet. I took the cap of the bottle, and coolant was slowly
>
steaming out. Also, before i shut the car off, i ran the heater full
blast,
> my lame attempt at trying to cool the engine. absolutely no heat
came out at
> all. Maybe the coolant wasnt flowing through the heater
core?
> The check engine light doesn't come on anymore, and i was able to
drive the
> car about a block to my office after letting it cool for three
hours. Didn't
> run long enough for the needle to get higher then the very
last line on the
> temp gauge. Any insight might be helpful if this has
happened to anyone else
> before. What would the general consensus be
here? Water pump? Could it be
> anything else? clogged radiator or water
hose somewhere? Should i try and
> figure out the check engine error code?
Should be getting my manuals back in
> a couple days, maybe that will
help. Should i take it to the dealer? I
> really have NO money to spend
right now, i hope it's something simple.
>
> Thanks,
>
Omar
> 92 r/t
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 01:20:31 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Leak
Randy,
The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it sounds
like this may be
where it is coming from. Try getting a sealing washer
or some teflon
tape on the threads.
Regarsd,
Lynn
Randy
MacAulay wrote:
>
>
I've just recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
> oil on the
ground
> just in front of the left front tire. I thought it
was
> leaking from the oil filter as it' in the same area so today I
changed
> the oil and filter and cleaned the area around it. I've
driven the car
> a bit and noticed that it's still leaking oil in the same
place. I
> haven't had a chance to get underneath it yet, but I was
wondering if
> this might be a known problem with a simple and inexpensive
solution (oh
> please, please, PLEASE!) For what it's worth, the
leak seems to be in
> FRONT and to the left of the oil pan, but I won't
know for sure until I
> get the car up
> in the air and can really
examine it. Any suggestions??
>
>
Thanks!
> Randy
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 22:29:09 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Leak
- ----
By all means try a fiber or copper washer, don't just
keep
tighting untill you strip the bolt. Most auto parts stores sell
the
washers. Mine leaks also I just haven't gotten around
to
it.
>The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it sounds like
this may be
>where it is coming from. Try getting a sealing washer
or some teflon
>tape on the
threads.
>
>Regarsd,
>Lynn
>
>Randy MacAulay
wrote:
>>
>>
I've just recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
>> oil on
the ground
>> just in front of the left front tire.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 03:21:51 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Leak
If it isn't the washer, you might want to check the oil
cooler lines. My '91
sprung a leak and it didn't take long to go from a drip
to a river. The
lines connect to the block at the filter. There is insulation
around the
line, so it could be hiding the leak and running it down the line.
Hope it's not this. There are 3 lines and they cost about $200
total.
Randy MacAulay wrote:
>
> I've just recently
taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
> oil on the ground
>
just in front of the left front tire. I thought it
was
>
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 01:39:33 -0700
From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: service
manuals on CD
I had to format my hard drive and forgot to back up my
bookmarks. Could
anyone tell me the url for the 3000GT service manuals on CD?
Thanks.
Regards,
Kyle
black '94 3000GT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 01:40:39 -0700
From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: octane
boost in NA's
I was wondering if anyone on the list recommends or is
using octane
boost on a regular basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the car to
run
more consistently and it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for
10:1
compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a specific brand of
octane
boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks
for
any info.
Kyle
black '94 3000GT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:39:58 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: overheating, NA 92 r/t
> Thanks for the quick response Jim,
i'll look into these things in the
> morning. I really hope it's only the
thermostat. If the thermostat didn't
> open, would that mean coolant
wouldn't flow?
Yes, exactly. You got the check engine light as the
temperature gauge was
sitting in the red and the ECU activates the light as
the gauge could be defect
> Maybe that explains no heat out of the
vents? This happened after driving
> for about an hour. If the thermostat
failed, wouldn't it fail in the open
> position?
The thermostat is
a spring loaded bi-metal that switches to open if a specific
temerature is
reached (180° or 160°). If the thing breaks the spring keeps it in
closed
position. Change it and watch the water temp the next time you drive
(10
times around your block) or just let it sit and idle. If the temp goes
just a
little higher than the mod position shut it off. Unfortunately, then
the water
pump must be replaced but that's not a big deal. I've let change it
at the 60k
service too.
Later,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:40:02 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: More boost = more octane (was: stock turbo record)
> crisis:
alcohol, or more specifically, methanol. Isn't this how the Indy
> cars
get around this quandry when ringing all that horsepower out of
> those
tiny little engines.
I think there are specific rules that say how much
octane the gas can have and
what kind it is. Also, as far as I know the turbo
engines are not allowed to
have a WI system anymore. AT the F1 Turbo area
they got around 1000hp out of an
1.5 litre turbo engine (ahhhhhh). This with
140 octane gas AND water/alcohol
injection.
> I know the mileage is
horrible and there are issues with compatability
> between methanol and
certain materials used along the feul path, but doesn't
> it deliver very
high octane?? (I am speaking qualitatively. I have no idea
> what the
numbers are quantitavely.) And isn't it very, very cheap?
I don't know
the cost mut availability is a problem too (at least here). You're
absolutely
right about methanol and one more important thing is that methanol is
not
giving you as good greasing as racing gas.
I'm curently prepare
everything for the car to get water injected and in my path
I'll use a
mixture between methanol and water. I currently don't know the
balance but
it'll be around 1/3 alcohol. This will give the additional power and
octane
rating while I do not run in danger that the water freezes in winter.
Also
the amount of fuel can be lowered a little on the desired boost
level.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:42:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: octane boost in NA's
No, there is no need for octane booster for
your car ! Just make sure you are
running good pump gas. You can use a good
fuel system cleaner every 30k or so.
This will remove carbon deposits on the
valves while cleaning the injectors.
> compression anyways. Does
anyone recommend a specific brand of octane
> boost? Should I use it every
fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks for
> any info.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:44:07 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: service manuals on CD
This is the link to Vineets CD Backup
manual :
http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/
>
I had to format my hard drive and forgot to back up my bookmarks. Could
>
anyone tell me the url for the 3000GT service manuals on CD? Thanks.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:23:13 -0400
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: snake eyes mod
You should check the directions at the 3SI
site. I did it the way it states
and did the under dash splice and the
light will operate will raise and
lower with the popup switch, no
matter the status of the actual headlight
operation. They will lift with or
without the lights on or off.
Andy
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 09:31:58 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Buyer's index resource.
-
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Buyer's Index
Listings for: Automotive
Do not Click on the above link unless you have
an extra couples of hours
to sit at the computer!!!!
I stumbled
accross this today. EXCELLENT resource. Something
for
everybody.
Have fun....and feel free to curse my name for wasting
a few hours of
everybody's time.
- --
- -Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
-
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7
Content-Type: text/html;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!doctype html
public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0
transitional//en">
<html>
<a
href="http://www.buyersindex.com/brca/8.htm">Buyer's Index Listings
for:
Automotive</a>
<p>Do not Click on the above link unless you have
an extra couples of hours
to sit at the computer!!!!
<p>I stumbled
accross this today. EXCELLENT resource. Something
for
everybody.
<p>Have fun....and feel free to curse my name for wasting a
few hours of
everybody's time.
<p>--
<br>-Jeff
Crabtree
<br> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
<br>
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
<br>
St.
Louis, MO
<br> </html>
-
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 08:39:39 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: octane boost in NA's
Hey, Kyle,
Again, this question never
reached the list... Reread the rules page for
instructions on using the
digest (you can't hit reply-- you must address
questions to the main
list...) Whatever gas you choose to use, the computer
reads what's
happening and gives it the best setting for that kind of gas.
I always use 93
in my NT, and it always goes like a bat. Theoretically, the
ECU is set
for that octane, so if you're going to higher octane, you might
want to
disconnect the battery after a couple of fill-ups, so the ECU can
re-learn
what's going on in the engine. You'll get more answers if you post
to
the list... :-)
Best,
Forrest
- -----Original
Message-----From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
To: TEAM 3/S <stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, April 10, 1999 1:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: octane boost in
NA's
|I was wondering if anyone on the list recommends or is using
octane
|boost on a regular basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the car to
run
|more consistently and it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for
10:1
|compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a specific brand of
octane
|boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks
for
|any info.
|
|
|Kyle
|black '94 3000GT
|For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 13:17:23 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Leak
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
> Randy,
> The
oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it sounds like this may be
>
where it is coming from. Try getting a sealing washer or some
teflon
> tape on the threads.
Or a really good (but kinda cheesy way)
to make a gasket is to cut a
disc out of an old bike innertube, and then cut
the hole in the middle a
bit smaller than the drainn plug, and slip it over.
It fits tight, and
doesn't leak.
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 13:24:45 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Leak
Michael Booker wrote:
> William Lynn
Larsen wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> > The oil pan drain
plug us a known leaker and it sounds like this may be
> > where it is
coming from. Try getting a sealing washer or some teflon
> > tape
on the threads.
> Or a really good (but kinda cheesy way) to make a gasket
is to cut a
> disc out of an old bike innertube, and then cut the hole in
the middle a
> bit smaller than the drainn plug, and slip it over. It fits
tight, and
> doesn't leak.
>
Thanks for
the input, but I've already replaced the washer on the drain plug and
there
doesn't appear to be any oil leaking around it at all. I must admit that I
was
REALLY hoping there would be though. I have a feeling that the
problem could be
somewhere between the oil pan and the oil cooler. Any
easy (relative term, I know...)
way to access this and check it
out??
Thanks!
Randy
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 14:52:37 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
snake eyes mod
Andy,
I have been considering getting into this
thread, not because I want the
snake eyes, but because I would like to be
able to run with just the
driving/fog lights on without having to turn on my
low beams. From you
statement below, I suppose I could let the lights operate
as per normal
(fog lights come on with low beams when you have the fog light
button
activated), but leave them in the down position. I'd have snake
eyes
with my fog/driving lights, right??
Regards,
Lynn
Andy
Carberry wrote:
>
> You should check the directions at the 3SI
site. I did it the way it states
> and did the under dash splice and
the light will operate will raise and
> lower with the popup switch,
no matter the status of the actual headlight
> operation. They will lift
with or without the lights on or off.
>
> Andy
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 15:12:35 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
octane boost in NA's
Kyle,
I agree totally with Roger and
Bob. I use strictly 93 octane Shell
and/or 93 octane Amoco and have had
no problems at all. If you decide
to go ahead and use booster you
should develop a procedure that lets you
put in the same ratio every time:
Fill up at 1/4 tank left by putting in
10 gal of gas and 1 bottle of booster
(this is for example only!! not
meant to be a recommendation for
quantities!!) Then follow Bob's
suggestion after a couple of fill ups (this
will make certain that all
of the feul through out the system is consistent)
of disconnecting the
battery to reset the ECU.
Are you getting
detonation or does the engine want to keep running when
you shut it
off?? These would be the kind of things that might make you
want to try
the booster.
Regards,
Lynn
Kyle Patton wrote:
>
>
I was wondering if anyone on the list recommends or is using octane
>
boost on a regular basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the car to run
>
more consistently and it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for 10:1
>
compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a specific brand of octane
>
boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks for
>
any info.
>
> Kyle
> black '94 3000GT
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 18:36:27 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
overheating, NA 92 r/t
Thanks to everyone that replied to my original
post. Well, it turned out to
be the thermostat, just as everyone had
suggested.
But i think between the time it went to the red zone, and the
time i saw it
and stopped, something happened to the water pump. I changed
the thermostat,
had to put in about 2 gallons of water/antifreeze, warmed the
engine up for
10 minutes and started to drive around the block. Everything
was fine, temp
gauge stayed where it normally did, heater was pumping out
heat. Near the
end of my 30 minute "test" run, i start to hear this nice high
pitch
squeel/whine. You know, the kind where you KNOW there's something
wrong. I
stopped and got out, and lo and behold, i've got coolant literally
raining
out of under the car right underneath where the water pump
is.
Well. guess i have to put her up on stands, pull out the good old
service
manual and get cracking on the water pump, timing belt and all the
other
goodies. I'm kind of glad it was the water pump, and not the timing
belt.
Gives me an excuse to do the 60k mile tune up. I guess while i'm at it,
i'll
rip everything else off, clean everything and put it back together.
Thanks
everyone for the help!
btw, what's the proper way to get rid of
coolant? can it be flushed down the
toilet, or do i have to take it
somewhere?
Omar
92 r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #148
****************************
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