--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #147
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S
Digest Friday, April 9
1999 Volume 01 : Number
147
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:14:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
It's not often that I ask for
help but today I got pretty nervous when driving
home :
This evening I
was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed traffic and I was only able to
drive in
1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2 meters more I pressed the clutch and the
rpm
came down to 850 while the car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm
immediatly
dropped and I got the christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I
immediatly
switched into second and dumped the clutch, the car came up to
live and I reved
it up a little. Again, the rpm came down and died again.
What the /&%&. And this
in traffic ? I did the dumping again and it
came back to live. AFter this, I
switched on A/C to prevent the rpms falling
down and this kept it alive.
After driving trough a tunnel at very low
speed (I felt my heart beating very
fast, .. just don't die in the tunnel) I
was able to increase speed. Then around
90mph I felt power is going away,
immediatly pressed the clutch and the rpm fell
down pretty quick. I released
the clutch again and it came back to live. I then
switched backt to third and
floored it. No problem reaching 1.02bars and it
pulled hard. I then pressed
the clutch quickly and the rpms fell down under 800
rpm where it almost died.
I tried to repeat this to find out wht is going on but
I was able to drive
home without any problems.
For sure I'm preparing now the Camaro to be
able to get to work tomorrow without
any problems but what the heck is going
on here ? I remember to had this problem
last year when the battery died but
the battery power looks pretty good now.
Luckly the weekend comes closer and
I can go over this but I don't know where to
start looking. I feel like I've
opened the hood the first time in my live :).
Any help/ideas are very
welcome.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/
tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:40:11 -0400
From: "Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
I have the same problem
sometimes.. Let me describe when it happens to me.
Start the car, drive
for approx. 1 hour. - Then let the car sit for 1-2
hours. - I then re-start
the car and it wants to idle at about 250 rpm. It
then will rev to 800, 250,
800, 250, 800,250 (about 1/2 second between each
change) -- Then I give it
some gas, and drive off.
Everything is fine when I drive it for 20
seconds at 3000rpm in 2nd gear. -
Then idle is normal.
I was going to
mention this problem to the mitsu dealership last time I had
my oil changed,
but what a pain to try to describe such and thing, and it
doesn't always do
it.
Eddie
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team3S
List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 5:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the
Car ?!!
>It's not often that I ask for help but today I got pretty
nervous when
driving
>home :
>
>This evening I was stuck in
a 15 miles slow speed traffic and I was only
able to
>drive in 1st and
2nd gear. As I moved 2 meters more I pressed the clutch
and the
>rpm
came down to 850 while the car still rolled slowly. Then the
rpm
immediatly
>dropped and I got the christmas tree on my dashboard.
Huh ??? I immediatly
>switched into second and dumped the clutch, the car
came up to live and I
reved
>it up a little. Again, the rpm came down
and died again. What the /&%&. And
this
>in traffic ? I did the
dumping again and it came back to live. AFter this,
I
>switched on A/C
to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept it alive.
>
>After
driving trough a tunnel at very low speed (I felt my heart
beating
very
>fast, .. just don't die in the tunnel) I was able to
increase speed. Then
around
>90mph I felt power is going away,
immediatly pressed the clutch and the rpm
fell
>down pretty quick. I
released the clutch again and it came back to live. I
then
>switched
backt to third and floored it. No problem reaching 1.02bars and it
>pulled
hard. I then pressed the clutch quickly and the rpms fell down
under
800
>rpm where it almost died. I tried to repeat this to find out
wht is going
on but
>I was able to drive home without any
problems.
>
>For sure I'm preparing now the Camaro to be able to get
to work tomorrow
without
>any problems but what the heck is going on
here ? I remember to had this
problem
>last year when the battery died
but the battery power looks pretty good
now.
>Luckly the weekend comes
closer and I can go over this but I don't know
where to
>start looking.
I feel like I've opened the hood the first time in my
live
:).
>
>Any help/ideas are very
welcome.
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>
>-----------------------
>Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
>93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
>ATR
DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided
brake
lines,
>Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
>
>Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 15:41:13 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
At 10:14 PM 4/8/99 +0200,
you wrote:
>It's not often that I ask for help but today I got pretty
nervous when
driving
>home :
Roger: I have no idea what your
problem is.
But if you run out of possiblities, consider that perhaps
one of your
electronic gadgets has taken an electrical hit (a surge or
transient,
perhaps from a nearby lightning strike).
If no other
solution arises from our brethren on the list, I would apply
the
last-in-first-out technique: i.e.,
what was the LAST change or modification
you made?
Undo it.
See if it works.
Good luck.
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 14:55:47 -0600
From: dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
-
--------------------------------------------------------------------
It's not
often that I ask for help but today I got pretty nervous when driving
home
:
This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed traffic and I was
only able t
o
drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2 meters more I
pressed the clutch and th
e
rpm came down to 850 while the car still
rolled slowly. Then the rpm immediatly
dropped and I got the christmas tree
on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
switched into second and dumped the
clutch, the car came up to live and I reved
it up a little. Again, the rpm
came down and died again. What the /&%&. And thi
s
in traffic ? I
did the dumping again and it came back to live. AFter this, I
switched on A/C
to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept it alive.
-
----------
for what it's worth, on my VW GTI, there is an ISV or Idle
Stabilizer Valve
which,
you guessed it, stabilizes the idle!
:) I had the exact same think happening
with
it.. the solution
was to simply unhook it, clean it out thoroughly with carb
cleaner and wait
for it to dry out.. good as new! I don't know if there's
a
similar
part on the VR4s, but I remember people talking about an
idle-stepper.. don't
know if it's related tho..
Dave
91
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:41:19 -0500
From: "Bill Davis" <wjdavis@inlink.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Roger,
It sounds like some
sort of fuel feed problem, or fuel
quality, like maybe moisture in the gas
tank.
By the way ,I changed my plugs, fuel filter, and cleaned
my
K&N, and the car immediately was running smoother.
I checked the
gap on the old plugs, .047 - .048 in., so they
were pretty toasted. The plugs
I took out were Nippon Denso's,
not NGK's.
After all that I took it in
for tire rotation, and oil change(free).
On my way out to the highway from
the dealer I was going
up a hill so I jumped on it. Everything was going
great, when all of a
sudden, I had nothing, no power, everytime I gave it gas
it
wanted to die, and I could hear my BOV louder than ever.
I pulled over,
and checked the Y pipe, and everything else
I had played around with while
changing the plugs, but everything
was on good and tight. I was able to drive
the car as long
as I did not boost it, so I limped back to the dealer with
my
tail between my legs, since I had just gotten done saying how
proud I
was of myself for changing the plugs, and getting everything
back together
right. I thought I had blown a turbo or something
even worse.
The
mechanic drove the car, ( like a maniac ), jumped out and said
yep it'syour
BOV. Turns out I blew off the soft line on my left intercooler.
He put it
back on, and tightened the rest of them down real good.
The damn thing must
have been leaking since I had the car, cause
now when I jump on it, boost
goes up much quicker.
Nevertheless, scared the crap out of me, having my
car almost die,
in fairly fast traffic.
Hope yours is no more serious
than mine was.
Bill Davis 95 VR-4
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team3S
List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 3:14 PM
Subject: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the
Car ?!!
> It's not often that I ask for help but today I got
pretty nervous when
driving
> home :
>
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 17:45:03 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Dave may have a point with the idle
stabilizer, but I swear this
incident and one that was brought up not long
ago sound like vapor
lock. Driving slow (engine heating up) maybe feul
is vaporizing in the
rail?? The other one was after driving a while, shutting
it off and then
it won't start until it sits for ~20min. Again max heat
is right after
you shut it off, feul vaporizes in rail and it won't
start. This was a
very well known problem with feul injected aircraft
engines.
Might be this, then
again...?????????
Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:49:59 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gremlins in the Car ?!!
> This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow
speed traffic and I
> was only able to drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I
moved 2 meters
> more I pressed the clutch and the rpm came down to 850
while the
> car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm immediatly dropped and
I
> got the christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
>
switched into second and dumped the clutch, the car came up to
> live and
I reved it up a little. Again, the rpm came down and
> died again. What
the /&%&. And this in traffic ? I did the
> dumping again and it
came back to live. AFter this, I
> switched on A/C to prevent the
rpms falling down and this
> kept it alive.
Not sure if the TT/VR4
cars are the same, but this exactly describes a
common problem on the DSM
cars. The ISC (idle speed controller) motor on
the throttle body
controls a bypass tube which allows air to flow through
when the throttle is
closed. A stepper motor controls how much air is
allowed to bypass
through. The motor has a certain range that it is
effective within, and
the adjustable part is called the "BISS" (base idle
set screw).
Adjusting that screw makes a more hardcore adjustment to the
bypass area,
which the ISC then makes smaller adjustments to.
I'd take a look at the
shop manual and see what the exact procedure is for
setting the base idle and
check that out first. I'd suspect you just ground
the timing test
connector and a pin on the scan-tool test connector and then
manually set the
idle for 750 RPM or whatever the VR4 spec is.
Your symptoms are identical
to those my Eclipse had a week ago and adjusting
the BISS solved it
completely. You'll probably want to clean the throttle
body real good
while you are in there in case some of the passages are
gunked
up.
Hope that helps...
- -Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 13:55:31 -0800
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
Put PowerSlots on my '92 VR-4 with
Axxis Metal Pads - they are recommended by PowerSlot. I got the rotors for
about $180 - $200 at Ultra Performance in Phoenix, AZ. They have been on
now for about 3 weeks and stopping power is real good. About $75 cheaper
than the Stillen Cross-Drilleds at the same place.
- --
On Thu, 08 Apr
1999 09:12:53 Roger Gerl wrote:
>> Powerslot rotors and my
K&K FIPK is on the way.
>
>Doran, good luck with the rotors !
Let us know how long it takes until they get
>warped. What pads are you
using with them ?
>
>Thanks,
>Roger,
Switzerland
>93'3000GT TT (killed two pairs of aftermarket rotors within a
month)
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
HotBot
- Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 15:02:54 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Eddie wrote:
> I
have the same problem sometimes.. Let me describe when it happens to
me.
>
> Start the car, drive for approx. 1 hour. - Then let the car
sit for 1-2
> hours. - I then re-start the car and it wants to idle at
about 250 rpm. It
> then will rev to 800, 250, 800, 250, 800,250 (about
1/2 second between each
> change) -- Then I give it some gas, and drive
off. [snip]
Ask the dealership to check the IAC.
- --Errin
Humphrey
Seattle, WA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:06:28 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Roger...
At least one other
person has offered my diagnosis...vapor lock. Virtually
all cars I've owned
experience this if they've been run hot, let sit for 15
to 20 minutes prior
to starting again. I used to think it was a "feature" of
carburetors, but
I've had the same experience with fuel injected systems.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 1:15 PM
To: Team3S List
Subject: Team3S: Team3S :
Gremlins in the Car ?!!
It's not often that I ask for help but today I
got pretty nervous when
driving
home :
This evening I was stuck in
a 15 miles slow speed traffic and I was only
able to
drive in 1st and 2nd
gear. As I moved 2 meters more I pressed the clutch and
the
rpm came down
to 850 while the car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm
immediatly
dropped
and I got the christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
switched
into second and dumped the clutch, the car came up to live and I
reved
it
up a little. Again, the rpm came down and died again. What the /&%&.
And
this
in traffic ? I did the dumping again and it came back to live.
AFter this, I
switched on A/C to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept
it alive.
<snip>
Any help/ideas are very
welcome.
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 15:27:04 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Eddie wrote:
>
What does the IAC stand for?
The layman's term for this is Idle Speed
Control, just
like that other guy was talking about in his post, but
for
some reason they call it the IAC. I'm not sure
exactly what it stands
for, but it is basically the same
thing as the ISC on DSM cars. It
controls the amount
of Air that that stabilizes your idle. My friend is
having
the exact same problem as your car, and he has had
it diagnosed as
the IAC. The part is about $250.
Good luck,
-
--Errin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:29:03 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno testing
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Allison
[mailto:dallison@siebel.com]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:31 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket
parts
<snip>
Saturday I'll be in Huntington Beach to do some
dyno runs on the
car. I'll have all my components installed by then and I'm
interested in
what kind of power she'll be producing.
This promises to
be a very cool weekend indeed.
Dave
Allison
======================
Dave...
Please post the result
of your dyno tests, along with your impressions of
the company. Also, to put
it all in perspective, it would be nice to have a
list of all your
mods.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS
Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc
injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU
upgrade, HKS SBOV, front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:44:41 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Barnhart [mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, April 07, 1999 5:07 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight
stripping)
<snip>
Besides, isn't the point whether it was
stock turbos or not?
Jason
==========================
Jason...
I wouldn't think
so. The weight of the car, the mods, the ambient
conditions, the track
conditions, the tires, AND the driver are all factors.
I thought we were
talking about how to influence the car's condition (by
removing weight).
Affecting the ambient and track condition will be
difficult. Given that we
(hypothetically) could take two EXACT duplicate
vehicles on the same track,
the final factor is the driver. I hope we all
keep in mind that some people
are better drivers than others (or are willing
to take greater risks with
their vehicles than others).
Bottom line (for me) is that if we take 600
pounds off a VR4, it is no
longer the same car as a stock VR4, whether it has
stock turbos or not. If
you look at Jack's times, you'll see he ran
SIGNIFICANTLY different (a 1/2
second faster) 1/4 mile runs with the same
turbos, just by adding nitrous.
What I'm always trying to do, along with
improving my own driving skills, is
to learn from others experiences in the
optimum mods and configuration of
those mods.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 18:11:48 -0400
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
I
> Powerslot
rotors
Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long it takes
until they
get
warped. What pads are you using with them ?
[Brian
Danley] I've had my powerslot rotors for 30K and haven't warped
them
yet. They seem to hold up pretty well. I use axis pads and have had
real good luck ..but still need Stainless Steel Brake Lines :( ... one
day
Brian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 18:15:19 -0400
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
JC Whittney carries
the G-tech Pro now also.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[SMTP:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 6:06 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
> >carries
G-Techs instock any more.
> So go directly to the source:
> http://www.gtechpro.com/
Tesla did
not sold the thing to individuals the last time I was in contact with
them
(and then never answered again). But the V8 dealers I'm getting my parts
from
do have it too and it's maybe worth to ask them if anyoine of you
is
interested. Let me know and I send the links this
evening.
Regards,
Roger
'93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 18:37:04 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys
We just installed one on my
friends '93 VR-4. Have not noticed any real
difference yet, but we
havn't got the fuel computer dialed in yet so I'll
let you know.
However, in my opinion you would be wiser to save the
money and put it
towards turbos and a fuel system.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 18:49:34 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 2nd Gear Syncro Fix Works!
Just my little story to everybody here
with bad syncros-KEEP THE FAITH!
I lucked out and got 1 brand new 2nd gear
syncro, 1 slightly used 2nd
gear syncro, and one new 2nd gear. Had a
race shop an hour and a half
away do the rebuild. Everything went
smooth and took very little
time(over easter weekend). Got the car back
with a great 1-2 shift and a
new RPS Turbo Clutch(wanted A.C.T. but everyone
is out). And I still got
the NEW 2nd gear syncro as an extra. My
point, don't believe the rumors
of welded shut cases or it being impossible
to rebuild. It can be done,
the guy at the shop that did mine said it
was very easy and he is quite
familliar with our tranny's anyways so it made
it that much smoother.
Now let's pray for someone to come out with
parts.
Sorry to babble but I'm soooooo damn happy that I got rid of that
crunch
I've been living with for the last 6 months.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 19:13:21 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BF tires
At 11:58 AM 4/8/99 EDT, you wrote:
>The $300
ones are G force T/A KD's. The shaved ones are G force T/A R1's and
>go
for around $170 a pop.
Originally, they were only available shaved.
Guess too many people complained.
I'd pay $170 for full tread, but $300 is
too much.
Guess Yoko 008s are next, soon as I wear down the
Michelins.
Right now, my Michelins are at racing depth.
So, where are
you going with them G Forces? A little track time, maybe?
How 'bout Topeka
next weekend?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 20:04:11 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Power steering fluid
After I installed air ducts to my brakes, I
turned the steering wheel
rapidly from side to side to make sure the ducts
would stay in place as the
wheels went lock to lock. I did this with the
engine off because the car
was on jackstands, no wheels were on, and
everything turned freely.
Afterward, I had a nice puddle of power
steering fluid under the car.
Argh! What did I do? Anything serious? It
doesn't seem to be leaking any
more.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 19:23:38 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Power steering fluid
Rich;
I must have missed a
post....how and where did you run your cooling ducts?
As far as the fluid
goes...sounds like more gremlins. Sit up tonight with a flashlight
and
revolver and do' em in when seen :-) Be quick, they're
fast!
Actually, if you haven't moved the car yet, look for the likely
trajectory/drop line,
and follow it up/back. There has to be a telltale wet
spot somewhere.
Best ( of luck)
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 22:30:33 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
If it suddenly won't hold the idle
without stalling, could be a vacuum
leak. My mom's camry had the same
problem, and it turned out to be the
intake tube between the airbox and
throttle body. With a TT you have
tons of hoses/clamps/places where they can
come loose.
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 23:03:23 -0500
From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Disabling Fuel Pump
On my Eclipse there is a fuse under the hood labeled
"MPI." I think the
3000GT has the same fuse, but I'm too lazy to go
outside and look. Check
for that fuse and if you find it, pull
it. Then you can do a compression
test or whatever without fuel
spraying everywhere.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)
<MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 11:18 AM
Subject: Team3S: Disabling Fuel
Pump
>How can I disable the fuel pump?
>
>I was trying
to check the compression prior to putting the plenum back on
>and I forgot
that the fuel pump and injectors still operate. i.e. fuel
>being
dumped into the cylinders when cranking.
>
>Is there a fuse to
disable the fuel pump so that fuel is not pumped
into
the
>cylinders?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
>'91RT/TT
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial
Support
>Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
>Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 09:10:58 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
> [Brian Danley] I've had
my powerslot rotors for 30K and haven't warped
> them yet. They seem
to hold up pretty well. I use axis pads and have had
> real good
luck ..but still need Stainless Steel Brake Lines :( ... one day
Good to
hear that they improved quality. I got my dimpled rotors that are made
by the
same manufacturer as the powerslots but instead of slotting they dimpled
them
and where cinc washed.
Unfortunately they got heavily warped after the
second 160+mph braking.
Fortunately, they took them back and gave me my money
back. At this time the
quality was really not
good.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 09:18:43 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Power steering fluid
> After I installed air ducts to my
brakes, I turned the steering wheel
> rapidly from side to side
>
Afterward, I had a nice puddle of power steering fluid under the car.
You
produced too much pressure from turning the steering wheel and the fluid
was
pushed out from the canister. Drive the car a little and check the level.
I
think you'll be fine then but make sure to clean everything because the
fluid is
aggressive.
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 03:15:49 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power steering fluid
>Rich;
>
>I must have
missed a post....how and where did you run your cooling ducts?
Nope, you
haven't missed anything. I just finished it today.
I bought a couple of
cheap scoops from J.C. Whitney, and mounted them over
the two 4 x 7 openings
in the front valence panel -- on both sides of the
front air dam. They stick
down about 1.5 inches, and have a 1x4 in.
rectangular opening.
Then I got
some 2 in. rubber flexible industrial duct ($6.50 per foot!!).
I removed the
shield from the back of the disk brakes.
Then I ran the hose from the back of
the scoop to immediately behind the
front calipers. To get to the scoop,
I just sorta jammed the hose into the
lower right corner opening in the
front fender well, which leads directly
to the scoop (very convenient - like
somebody designed it that way).
In most cars, you could point the hose
at the center of the rotor, but we
have this big 'ol halfshaft assembly
there. So the only real opening is at
the calipers.
I have a
clamp around the end of the hose, and the clamp is tiewrapped to
the brake
line fitting to keep it in place when the wheel turns. I don't
know if it
will stay there or if the tiewrap will slip up the hose. I'll
watch it
closely. What I'd really like to do is attach it to the top
caliper mounting
bolt - perhaps by finding a washer with a tab on it to put
under the caliper
bolt. That way, I could also tie off the ABS sensor line,
which is hanging
loose at the moment. Do such washers exist?
I dunno how the system works
yet. Tell ya after Topeka next weekend.
>Actually, if you haven't
moved the car yet, look for the likely
trajectory/drop line,
>and
follow it up/back. There has to be a telltale wet spot somewhere.
I've
already moved it.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 03:27:08 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power steering fluid
>
>You produced too much
pressure from turning the steering wheel and the
fluid was
>pushed out
from the canister. Drive the car a little and check the level. I
>think
you'll be fine then but make sure to clean everything because the
fluid
is
>aggressive.
>
Whew! That's a relief! Thanks,
Roger.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 07:36:40 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight
stripping)
Chris,
A statement was made that with stock turbos
11s might be out of reach
without weight stripping. I made the point of
how close Mike and Adam
have came to 11s with STOCK turbos. A statement
was then made that
someone didn't feel they were stock turbos, and another
statement made
about fuel system upgrades... They were stock turbos,
and whether the
fuel system was upgraded or not has nothing to do with
whether they're
stock turbos. I'm very aware of what factors come into
play when
racing. I feel that removing 600 bls is not necessary to
reach 11s,
this has been my statement from the
beginning.
Jason
> Jason...
>
> I wouldn't think
so. The weight of the car, the mods, the ambient
> conditions, the track
conditions, the tires, AND the driver are all factors.
> I thought we were
talking about how to influence the car's condition (by
> removing weight).
Affecting the ambient and track condition will be
> difficult. Given that
we (hypothetically) could take two EXACT duplicate
> vehicles on the same
track, the final factor is the driver. I hope we all
> keep in mind that
some people are better drivers than others (or are willing
> to take
greater risks with their vehicles than others).
>
> Bottom line
(for me) is that if we take 600 pounds off a VR4, it is no
> longer the
same car as a stock VR4, whether it has stock turbos or not. If
> you look
at Jack's times, you'll see he ran SIGNIFICANTLY different (a 1/2
> second
faster) 1/4 mile runs with the same turbos, just by adding nitrous.
>
> What I'm always trying to do, along with improving my own driving
skills, is
> to learn from others experiences in the optimum mods and
configuration of
> those mods.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 08:13:42 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Who makes a
crank for our cars?
I need a few suggestions on a reliable, hopefully
experienced company
that can make a stroked crank for our cars? June Racing
prices are just
unreasonable. If anyone has had one made what was the approx
cost?
Thanks for the help.
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 06:45:42 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
Jeff wrote:
> On my Eclipse there
is a fuse under the hood labeled "MPI." I think the
> 3000GT has the
same fuse, but I'm too lazy to go outside and look. Check
> for that
fuse and if you find it, pull it. Then you can do a compression
>
test or whatever without fuel spraying everywhere.
>
Can anyone
confirm this on the 3S for sure? I t sure would be easier than the standard
"
open the fuel pump access in the trunk and disconnect it there" described
earlier?
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 07:33:08 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Barnhart [mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
Sent: Friday,
April 09, 1999 4:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was
weight
stripping)
Chris,
A statement was made that with
stock turbos 11s might be out of reach
without weight stripping. I made
the point of how close Mike and Adam
have came to 11s with STOCK
turbos. A statement was then made that
someone didn't feel they were
stock turbos, and another statement made
about fuel system upgrades...
They were stock turbos, and whether the
fuel system was upgraded or not has
nothing to do with whether they're
stock turbos. I'm very aware of what
factors come into play when
racing. I feel that removing 600 bls is not
necessary to reach 11s,
this has been my statement from the
beginning.
Jason
======================
Jason...
OK, thanks
for the clarification. Sometimes these threads confuse me, as I'm
not sure
what's being proposed. I'd love to hear that someone has been
successful in
reaching the 11s with stock turbos and what mods/techniques
they used to get
there.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS
Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc
injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU
upgrade, HKS SBOV, front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 10:55:25 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What is a 'SAFE' boost level
I've just
installed a Greddy Profec 'A' in my car and I was
wondering if
it was
'safe' to leave it set for a max of 1.0 bar of boost all the
time
or should I reduce that number by some
amount. I'd LOVE to leave it
there cuz' it makes such a HUGE
difference in performance
but I don't want to risk
damaging my Baby. Also, does anyone have
any
programming
recommendations for it? I've just gone through
the
basic initial phase but would love to hear any 'tips and
tricks'
you
folks might have.
Many thanks to all the people
who have helped me with this,
especially;
Chris Winkley, Mike at http://www.alteredatmosphere.com
(great prices on
stuff
for our cars by the way), and David
Jimenez. Thanks guys!!!
Randy
94 VR4 (new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec 'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's, NGK's
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 10:56:23 -0400
From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: What is a 'SAFE' boost level
I've just
installed a Greddy Profec 'A' in my car and I was
wondering if
it was
'safe' to leave it set for a max of 1.0 bar of boost all the
time
or should I reduce that number by some
amount. I'd LOVE to leave it
there cuz' it makes such a HUGE
difference in performance
but I don't want to risk
damaging my Baby. Also, does anyone have
any
programming
recommendations for it? I've just gone through
the
basic initial phase but would love to hear any 'tips and
tricks'
you
folks might have.
Many thanks to all the people
who have helped me with this,
especially;
Chris Winkley, Mike at http://www.alteredatmosphere.com
(great prices on
stuff
for our cars by the way), and David
Jimenez. Thanks guys!!!
Randy
94 VR4 (new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec 'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's, NGK's
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 11:20:57 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Generator guestion
I am having problems with the AC unit in my car, and
i'm considering
removing the belt that drives the compressor, but I see in
the manual
that there is also a pulley for a generator. Is this the
alternator? If
not, what are the possible consequenses of removing it. If I
do remove
it, I'll have a place for a supercharger, as the cost to replace
the
broken parts of the AC and a supercharger kit are around the
same.
Thanks for the help.
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 08:21:10 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: What is a 'SAFE' boost level
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Randy MacAulay [mailto:rmacaulay@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Friday, April 09, 1999 7:55 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: What is a 'SAFE' boost level
I've just installed a Greddy Profec
'A' in my car and I was wondering if it
was 'safe' to leave it set for a max
of 1.0 bar of boost all the time or
should I reduce that number by some
amount. I'd LOVE to leave it there cuz'
it makes such a HUGE difference in
performance but I don't want to risk
damaging my Baby. Also, does anyone have
any programming recommendations for
it? I've just gone through the basic
initial phase but would love to hear
any 'tips and tricks' you folks might
have.
<snip>
Randy
94 VR4
(new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec
'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's,
NGK's
================
Randy...
I've kept mine at 1.0 bar for over
a year with no negative effects (other
than slamming my head into the
headrest). Everyone seems to agree that 15
psi is "safe" to run on a regular
basis. The real issue is the OTB (over
take boost) setting. I have mine set
at 1.2 bar (about 18 psi), but have
only used it a couple times, due to the
risks associated with detonation.
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and
polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A
boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front mounted
intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 08:27:24 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dyno testing
I'll be there all day Saturday and in anticipation
of a bored/pissed
off girlfriend, I've already bought tickets to Disneyland
on Sunday! :)
I'm also bringing my digital camera, so there will be tons
of
pictures of the installation processes, tuning, and dyno runs. I'm
spending
nearly $1000 on labor and dyno time above and beyond the cost of the
parts
that are being installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite excited to
spend
the $ on something this informative.
I'll give you a synopsis
and some pictures to look at come Monday
I
hope!
Seeya!
Dave
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Chris Winkley [mailto:cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 3:29 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno testing
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave
Allison [mailto:dallison@siebel.com]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 8:31 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket
parts
<snip>
Saturday I'll be in Huntington Beach to do some
dyno runs on the
car. I'll have all my components installed by then and I'm
interested in
what kind of power she'll be producing.
This promises to
be a very cool weekend indeed.
Dave
Allison
======================
Dave...
Please post the result
of your dyno tests, along with your impressions of
the company. Also, to put
it all in perspective, it would be nice to have a
list of all your
mods.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS
Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc
injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU
upgrade, HKS SBOV, front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 08:37:05 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Generator guestion - Alternator Answer
Michael:
You are
right, that belt also runs the alternator, or as the
book calls it, the
generator.
Rich
- ---------------------------------
Michael Booker
wrote:
>
> I am having problems with the AC unit in my car, and i'm
considering
> removing the belt that drives the compressor, but I see in
the manual
> that there is also a pulley for a generator. Is this the
alternator?
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 10:01:13 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
I am the
original poster of this thread. The nay-saying has just caused a
well of
motivation, I am now determined to run 11's with stock turbo's.
Yesterday I bought a
trailer for towing the "Project Car". I am now
utterly determined to run 11's with
stock turbos. There is not a doubt
in my mind it is possible. If we have run 12's 11's
are just one step
away. Maybe NOS? who knows. But think of the triumph it would be
for
Team 3S 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second
monster...$14,000 that would
be triumph for all of our cars. Even
if I could only get low 12's that would be
killer. I am aiming for a
$4500 max, and trying to keep it uner $3000 anybody have any
ideas for a list
of mods? Here is my list
EBC
AFC
Fuel Pump
560cc
Injectors
K&N Aircharger or AAM Filter
Thermo Wrap...everything the
entire IC piping setup
NOS?
Weight Stuff
New fold-up plexigalss
headlights with cold air intake
http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpg
New
Seats 8 lbs each
Remove all Interior I can get away
with
Remove:
Cruise Control
AC
unit
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
All sound deadenanig material
Some questions on the
following...
Running with _NO_ hood?
Window Glass replacements?? The
glass could remove some wight if there was a
lightweight inexpensive
alternative. Some type of plastic that would just keep wind
from comng
through. too much drag? What do they use on NASCAR, it's is somekind
of
flexible plastic?
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
Chris,
> A statement was made that with stock turbos 11s might
be out of reach
> without weight stripping. I made the point of how
close Mike and Adam
> have came to 11s with STOCK turbos. A
statement was then made that
> -snip-
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 09:06:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dyno testing
Dave Allison wrote:
>
> I'll be there all day
Saturday and in
So what are the directions to this place in case anyone
wants to come
watch ;)?
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but
three lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:02:54 -0400
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
Eddie,
We sell
the Brembo rotors that are both cross drilled and slotted for $300 a
pair
(front). I have semi-metalic pads in stock that work great with
these
rotors for $60 a pair(front). We sell the K&N FIPK for
$155. And we sell
the Alamo Downpipe (best on the market) for
$475. Let me know.
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Eddie <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, April 07, 1999 9:52 PM
Subject: Team3S: Please recommend a good
store for aftermarket parts
>Could someone please recommend a few
good stores that sell aftermarket
parts
>for a 92 stealth r/t tt- I am
interested in K&N FIPK, brembo rotors, a good
>recommendation for pads
(to go with the brembo's) - and an
aftermarket
>downpipe.
>
>Thank
you.
>Eddie
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 11:17:45 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
> Yesterday I
bought a trailer for towing the "Project Car".
> I am now utterly
determined to run 11's with stock turbos.
> There is not a doubt in my
mind it is possible. If we
> have run 12's 11's are just one step
away. Maybe NOS? who
> knows. But think of the triumph it
would be for Team 3S
> 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second
monster..
> $14,000 that would be triumph for all of our cars.
Even
> if I could only get low 12's that would be killer. I
am
> aiming for a $4500 max, and trying to keep it uner $3000
>
anybody have any ideas for a list of mods? Here is my list
If you are
talking NOS, then you aren't really getting it
into the 11's because of the
stock turbos. NOS should get
you easily into the 11's, but that's sorta
cheating... If
the point is to make the stock turbos go elevens, then
do
it with the turbos, and not some other horsepower trick.
If you are
going to do it with NOS anyway, then don't
bother stripping the car.
You'll make 11's no problem.
> Weight Stuff
> New fold-up
plexigalss headlights with cold air intake
> http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpg
I
doubt that those headlights would be street legal...
> Some questions
on the following...
> Running with _NO_ hood?
One of the DSM guys
tried it and times worsened due to the very poor
aerodynamics.
>
Window Glass replacements?? The glass could remove some
> wight if
there was a lightweight inexpensive alternative.
> Some type of plastic
that would just keep wind from comng
> through. too much drag?
What do they use on NASCAR,
> it's is somekind of flexible
plastic?
Lexan.
- -Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 10:29:16 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
OK we'll
leave out the NOS but everything else remains.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 09:36:14 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Hi
Andrew,
Lose the switchable exhaust and it's motor. You could
probably remove
everything behind the downpipe. If the tracks you'll go
to won't allow
open exhaust, you might have to put on a muffler. Gut
the precats
(free) and consider a new downpipe too ($350), although these may
not
help too much with stock turbos.
Also lose the active aero motors,
antenna, consider the removing the
rear wing.
I'm sure there is more
weight to lose...
Ken
Andrew Brilliant wrote:
>
> I
am the original poster of this thread. The nay-saying has just
caused a well of
> motivation, I am now determined to run 11's with stock
turbo's. Yesterday I bought a
> trailer for towing the "Project
Car". I am now utterly determined to run 11's with
> stock
turbos. There is not a doubt in my mind it is possible. If we have
run 12's 11's
> are just one step away. Maybe NOS? who knows.
But think of the triumph it would be for
> Team 3S 11's for under
$3000 Total cost for an 11 second monster...$14,000 that would
> be
triumph for all of our cars. Even if I could only get low 12's that would
be
> killer. I am aiming for a $4500 max, and trying to keep it uner
$3000 anybody have any
> ideas for a list of mods? Here is my list
>
> EBC
> AFC
> Fuel Pump
> 560cc Injectors
>
K&N Aircharger or AAM Filter
> Thermo Wrap...everything the entire IC
piping setup
> NOS?
>
> Weight Stuff
> New fold-up
plexigalss headlights with cold air intake
> http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpg
>
New Seats 8 lbs each
> Remove all Interior I can get away with
>
Remove:
> Cruise
Control
> AC unit
>
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
> All sound
deadenanig material
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three
lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 18:50:45 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
If you look in the manual under
compression testing (unfortunately I don't have mine with
me) it tells
you to disconnect the crank position sensor (I think that is what it
is
called). On the black plastic timing belt covers there are two plugs
attached just behind
the engine mount, underneath the rear intercooler pipe,
between the wheel well and the water
pump. They are about in the center
of the engine. The crank position sensor is the front
plug. Just
disconnect that one and it disables both the spark plug firing and the
fuel
pump.
Sorry my description sucks,
Mike C.
0018
'95
Stealth RT TT
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
Jeff wrote:
>
> > On my Eclipse there is a fuse under the hood
labeled "MPI." I think the
> > 3000GT has the same fuse, but I'm
too lazy to go outside and look. Check
> > for that fuse and if
you find it, pull it. Then you can do a compression
> > test or
whatever without fuel spraying everywhere.
> >
>
> Can
anyone confirm this on the 3S for sure? I t sure would be easier than the
standard "
> open the fuel pump access in the trunk and disconnect it
there" described earlier?
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 18:50:48 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dyno testing
Dave,
If you can I would
recommend installing a thermocouple temperature gauge in the
intake piping
before the throttle body. We did this in Zurich and it was really
helpful
in finding out when our cars were overheating. The dyno fan we
used was not at all
efficient for our cars and you could see that the
intercoolers were almost ineffective.
One thing I have not had a chance to do
is see just how inefficient they were. Since
intake temperature is so
important it is worth it to take the extra time to set it up.
We used a
standard type-K thermocouple attached to a thermocouple temperature gauge
that
recorded the max and min temps. For instance, if your intake temp
is 200 deg F on the
dyno, but only 150 deg F on the road, you actually have a
lot more power on the road
than was recorded on the dyno. We installed
the thermocouple by removing one of the
intercooler intake pipes from the
Y-pipe and running the thermocouple about 6-10 inches
into the Y-pipe (just
keep it out of the throttle body). Since the thermocouple is
nothing
more than a thin wire, it was possible to just install the intercooler pipe
over
the wire.
This equipment can be expensive ($200-300), but I would
think a fully equipped shop
would have something like this for testing
purposes.
Hope this helps,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT
TT
> I'm also bringing
my digital camera, so there will be tons of
> pictures of the installation
processes, tuning, and dyno runs. I'm spending
> nearly $1000 on labor and
dyno time above and beyond the cost of the parts
> that are being
installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite excited to spend
> the $ on
something this
informative.
>
>
I'll give you a synopsis and some pictures to look at come Monday I
>
hope!
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:05:41 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Good luck Andrew,
can't wait to hear how you do. After you have
accomplished 11's with
the stock turbos we'll challenge you to set new
records with big
turbos.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----Original Message-----
>I am
the original poster of this thread. The nay-saying has just caused
a
well of
>motivation, I am now determined to run 11's with stock
turbo's.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:06:38 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Another VR-4 going to Germany
Look out Jim and Mike, another modded VR-4
is on it's way over to Germany.
One of our local dealerships just got done
preparing it for a guy who just
got transferred to Germany - sorry don't know
where.
The car is a '98 black VR-4 with only 1800 miles. The mods
include HKS dual
tip exhaust, HKS intake and EVC-IV.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 10:14:28 -0700
From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Dyno testing
Great idea!
My preliminary impressions of the
dyno shop is that they will be
doing everything in their power to get me in
and out of their shop as
quickly as possible. I don't think they like to work
on Saturdays. It'll be
tough, but I'll try and insist they go the extra step
to measure the intake
charge temperature while on the dyno.
I myself
am pretty curious as to the efficiency of the stock
intercoolers. People on
this list like to talk about dumping more fuel into
the combustion chamber to
cool the fuel mixture to prevent detonation, yet
nobody ever seems to speak
about the obvious alternative: more efficient
intercoolers. I'me sure there
is room for improvement over the stock
intercoolers, I just want to know some
hard numbers on what the stock
intercoolers are doing to the intake
charge.
I have one of those LCD temperature gauges that mounts inside
your
house, to measure inside temp, and has a long wire that runs thru
the
windowsill to record the outside temerature. It runs on batteries. I
know
this may sound cheesy, but perhaps I could tape the unit to the
inside
bumper of the car to measure the pre-intercooled temp and run the wire
into
the y-pipe to measure the intake charge. My only concern would be if
the
sensor could handle the temperatures that would be thrown at it.
You
mentioned a possible 200F temp in the y-pipe. Is this from experience?
I
wonder if the sensor would go this high, since it was designed for
mesuring
weather temps. The cool thing about this unit is that it costs $9,
is very
small, and has a peak temp memory. I could ideally take the car for a
drive
about town with some boosting situations and review the results later.
It
stands to reason that the outside temp high would correspond with the
intake
charge high temp.
Any thoughts?
Dave Allison
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chapleski [mailto:mike.chapleski@ibm.net]
Sent:
Friday, April 09, 1999 9:51 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dyno testing
Dave,
If you can I
would recommend installing a thermocouple temperature gauge
in the
intake
piping before the throttle body. We did this in Zurich and it
was
really helpful
in finding out when our cars were overheating.
The dyno fan we used was not
at all
efficient for our cars and you could
see that the intercoolers were almost
ineffective.
One thing I have not
had a chance to do is see just how inefficient they
were.
Since
intake temperature is so important it is worth it to take the extra
time to
set it up.
We used a standard type-K thermocouple attached to a
thermocouple
temperature gauge that
recorded the max and min temps.
For instance, if your intake temp is 200
deg F on the
dyno, but only 150
deg F on the road, you actually have a lot more power on
the road
than was
recorded on the dyno. We installed the thermocouple by removing
one of
the
intercooler intake pipes from the Y-pipe and running the thermocouple
about
6-10 inches
into the Y-pipe (just keep it out of the throttle
body). Since the
thermocouple is
nothing more than a thin wire, it
was possible to just install the
intercooler pipe over
the
wire.
This equipment can be expensive ($200-300), but I would think a
fully
equipped shop
would have something like this for testing
purposes.
Hope this helps,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT
TT
> I'm also bringing
my digital camera, so there will be tons of
> pictures of the installation
processes, tuning, and dyno runs. I'm
spending
> nearly $1000 on labor
and dyno time above and beyond the cost of the parts
> that are being
installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite excited to
spend
> the $ on
something this
informative.
>
>
I'll give you a synopsis and some pictures to look at come Monday
I
>
hope!
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:12:47 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: '98
VR-4 repair manuals for $30
Brookdale Mitsubishi in Minneapolis is
clearing out factory repair manuals.
They have 2 sets of brand new manuals
for '98 VR-4. Both books for $30 +
shipping. Talk to Greg Kinne, Parts
Manager. 612.566.5600. And don't forget
to tell him I sent
you.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 15:02:41 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
snake eyes mod
Found out some side affects to doing the snake eyes mod on
my 93 Stealth
ES. Everything works okay, but...
When you turn on
the parking lights and the headlights, the light things
stay down and don't
come up. I know, that's the whole point of the
mod. But, when the
headlights are on, and the lights are down, you'd
think that you could just
push the pop-up button and they'd pop up..
WRONG! You have to turn off
the headlights to get them to pop up. The
same goes the other
way. You can have the headlights on and up, then
push the button for
them to go down.. You have the turn off the
headlights to get them to
go down by pushing the button.. Then you can
do the snake eyes by turning the
headlights back on.. Get my drift?
Anyone else have this
problem..?
Also, I found that I don't even have to remove the dash at all
to do the
splicing.. I took me all of one minute to do it
all..
Leland Gray
93 Stealth ES
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 14:04:59 -0500
From: "Brett Russell" <brussell@powercom.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
Leland,
I have heard that the different
years have had different rates of success
with the "snake eyes" mod. I
have a '92 ES and have absolutely no problems
whatsoever. I can put the
lights up or down with a push of the button no
matter if the lights are on or
off. Maybe this is a difference in the year,
then again, maybe there's
something wrong with the splice, it might be worth
a second look.
Hope
this helped some,
Brett
> Found out some side affects to doing the
snake eyes mod on my 93 Stealth
> ES. Everything works okay,
but...
>
> When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light things
> stay down and don't come up. I know, that's the
whole point of the
> mod. But, when the headlights are on, and the
lights are down, you'd
> think that you could just push the pop-up button
and they'd pop up..
> WRONG! You have to turn off the headlights to
get them to pop up. The
> same goes the other way. You can
have the headlights on and up, then
> push the button for them to go
down.. You have the turn off the
> headlights to get them to go down
by pushing the button.. Then you can
> do the snake eyes by turning the
headlights back on.. Get my drift?
> Anyone else have this
problem..?
>
> Also, I found that I don't even have to remove the
dash at all to do the
> splicing.. I took me all of one minute to do
it all..
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 14:12:53 -0500
From: Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: snake eyes mod
Leland:
This just happened to me...I had my
car in for a clutch vacuum booster
and somehow they jumbled all the
wires. I took it back apart, and used a
"parasite" clip to do the deed,
and voila, all was better. Something's
touching something in a bad way
down there. Check it all over again.
Good luck!
Scott
'92
VR4
>Found out some side affects to doing the snake eyes mod on my 93
>Stealth
>ES. Everything works okay,
but...
>
>When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light
>things
>stay down and don't come up. I know,
that's the whole point of the
>mod. But, when the headlights are on,
and the lights are down, you'd
>think that you could just push the pop-up
button and they'd pop up..
>WRONG! You have to turn off the
headlights to get them to pop up.
>The
>same goes the other
way. You can have the headlights on and up, then
>push the button
for them to go down.. You have the turn off the
>headlights to get
them to go down by pushing the button.. Then you
>can
>do the snake
eyes by turning the headlights back on.. Get my drift?
>Anyone else have
this problem..?
>
>Also, I found that I don't even have to remove
the dash at all to do
>the
>splicing.. I took me all of one
minute to do it all..
>
>Leland Gray
>93 Stealth
ES
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 17:43:59 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
snake eyes mod
You guys were right.. I went back and redid the
connection, and wha-la, it works, just
like it's supossed to. THANKS
FOR THE HELP!!!
Leland Gray wrote:
> Found out some
side affects to doing the snake eyes mod on my 93 Stealth
> ES.
Everything works okay, but...
>
> When you turn on the parking
lights and the headlights, the light things
> stay down and don't come
up. I know, that's the whole point of the
> mod. But, when the
headlights are on, and the lights are down, you'd
> think that you could
just push the pop-up button and they'd pop up..
> WRONG! You have to
turn off the headlights to get them to pop up. The
> same goes the
other way. You can have the headlights on and up, then
> push the
button for them to go down.. You have the turn off the
> headlights
to get them to go down by pushing the button.. Then you can
> do the snake
eyes by turning the headlights back on.. Get my drift?
> Anyone else have
this problem..?
>
> Also, I found that I don't even have to remove
the dash at all to do the
> splicing.. I took me all of one minute
to do it all..
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth ES
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
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