--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #144
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Tuesday, April 6
1999 Volume 01 : Number
144
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:01:09 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Compresion Check
Mike,
I'm happy that the compression
check showed that good figures :)) Compared to
Jim's figures they are about
the same as we only did a quick measuring on the
fronts without the rear bank
nor the intake manifold removed and also the
injection fuse was still there.
Therefore you both do not have to worry and the
readings are
good.
> since there has to be an explanation for that temperature
probe
> being pushed out of your dipstick hole.
The same happened
to me before the rebuild and not anymore afterwards. Also I
never had any
leaking oil cap until the problem arose. I also think Jim doesn't
have this
problem anymore since he got my original oil cap.
> Is it possible
your oil level was too high and the crank was beating up the
> oil,
somehow raising the pressure?
Here, also the different oils (heaviness)
may play a rule but I'm also not sure
about this. BTW, since my rebuild the
oil pressure readings are in the lower
regions than before and also I do have
much less oil in the intake parts than
before. I think we'll not measure the
oil temperature on the next dyno session
to avoid the oil on the
windscreeen.
Later,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 08:18:05 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Relative difficulty of ABS retrofit
Lynn;
Are you certain
you need to retrofit? It may be that there was just no fuse. Stranger
things
have happened. And, sounds like the OEM pads are great for your application.
Once
a person starts getting into high speed braking situations like many,
make that some, of
the members, then aftermarket pads, rotors, etc, become
necessary considerations. It
sounds to me like you have gotten good value
from the stock pads for your driving
habits. Stick with it until one changes.
FWIW Tal Mitsu has good prices for
stock
replacement.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 11:22:06 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Relative difficulty of ABS retrofit -Reply
Shouldn't be too
difficult...ABS was a $300 or so option on the ES's. So
most likely most of
the setup is there and ready to go, (as is evidence of
the ABS fuse).
If your lucky...call a dealer and it will only be about $500
installed.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> William Lynn
Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net> 04/04/99
09:26pm >>>
When I purchased my car, I believe that the dealer told
my insurance
company that my '93 ES had ABS. I never changed my
braking
technique,
but in hindsight I don't recall ever sensing that the
ABS was doing
anything. Recently, I noticed that there was no fuse in the ABS
fuse
block and have concluded that there is no ABS. It is lucky that
there
have been no incidents while my wife was driving my car since
I
instructed her in the use of ABS: push as hard as you can and let
the
ABS do its thing.
How difficult would it be to retrofit ABS on my
car. I have 65K on my
car and figure that I probably need front pads;
haven't checked, but
haven't heard chirpers either. Question here is
what would you guys
suggest as the best pads for a daily driver that is never
raced (I've
only had it over 140 twice), never had a warped rotor that I
noticed and
intend on keeping stock rotors??
Thanks and
regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 09:31:14 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <
andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Weight Stripping
OKay, I have decided to keep my VR-4, but as it
is my 4th car I won't
need to worry about anything but one thing.. PURE SPEED
BABY. Right now
I am going to start by putting the big bad 3000 on a
diet... Ideas???
Anything I can take out everybody tell me. I am
planning on buying some
of those cheaper than dirt seats from summit, they
are under $40 and
weigh around 9 lbs. If it makes the car not street
legal, don't tell me
about it. I still want to drive it around from
time to time. What are
the heaviest parts of the exhaust? The
Interior? On the interior of
GT-1 Cars I noticed that they look kind of
nice, are they powder
coated? Or anything of the like. Is there a
carbon fiber, or aluminum
dash for the 3000? Any ideas are greatly
appreciated. What is the
lowest anyone has got the curb weight down
to. I think 3400 lbs is not
unrealistic for this big luxo car.
What made the 2g's lighter than the
91-93's? Do the popup motors add
weight? If so, maybe a little
plexiglass over the top, and remount the
bulbs fixed and then remove the
popup machinery, etc. This would also
allow space where the light/motor
would be for cold air? Or maybe combine
this mod with a cold air intake
of some kind? Ideas?? My goal
with this car is to go 11 seconds, on
stock turbos. I just want to try
and see if you can.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 08:43:35 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Trany leak
Hey Ron;
Did you have your car serviced in the
recent past? They could have topped up your fluids
and overfilled. Just a
thought.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 10:49:42 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Leaking coolant
Whilst crawling around under the 94 VR4
yesterday, I spotted a coolant leak.
It was collecting on the oil
filter, then dripping off.
Not a lot, but I never saw any leaks
before.
I poked and prodded and peered, but couldn't spot anything with
the car
only a jackstand off the floor. I also could not spot anything from
the top.
Now I see that I have a low coolant indicator.
Any ideas
where this leak might be coming from?
Gotta fix it: we're going racin' in
two weeks.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 08:56:35 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Leaking coolant
Rich wrote
> snip
>
> I
poked and prodded and peered, but couldn't spot anything with the car
>
only a jackstand off the floor. I also could not spot anything from the
top.
>
> Now I see that I have a low coolant
indicator.
>
> Any ideas where this leak might be coming
from?
> Gotta fix it: we're going racin' in two
weeks.
>
Start her up and pressurize the system while on the
jackstands. If it's not a pinhole
sized leak, it may well give itself away
when you're under there. If you've already
tried this, sorry for stating the
obvious.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 09:01:10 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Stripping
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew
Brilliant [
mailto:andrewb@infowest.com]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 8:31 AM
To: Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Weight
Stripping
OKay, I have decided to keep my VR-4, but as it is my 4th car I
won't
need to worry about anything but one thing.. PURE SPEED BABY.
Right now
I am going to start by putting the big bad 3000 on a diet...
Ideas???
<snip>
Ideas?? My goal with this car is to
go 11 seconds, on
stock turbos. I just want to try and see if you
can.
============================
Andrew...
First off, ditch the
seats (front & back) and your spare tire. That will be
at least 100lbs.
Ditch the stereo and speakers (20lbs?). Get rid of the
wasted part of the
exhaust that goes to the right side of the bumper, it
doesn't do anything and
weighs 40 lbs. Better yet, if this isn't for the
street, ditch the exhaust
completely. There's a carbon fiber hood out there
somewhere but, as I recall,
they're expensive. Get a dry cell battery, they
weigh only 14lbs (compared to
40?). All the power goodies and associated
wiring are targets. The chrome
wheels (with tires) are 58lbs each. Alloy
rims would be a big gain. There was
an article in Street Power a couple
years ago about someone who remounted the
engine, replaced the tranny and
made a VR4 RWD. It save a huge amount of
weight (and surely cost a huge
amount of $$$).
The list goes on and
on. Keep us posted on your progress.
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell
battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy
turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 09:04:35 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Leaking coolant
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 8:50 AM
To:
stealth@starnet.net;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Leaking coolant
Whilst crawling around under the 94 VR4
yesterday, I spotted a coolant leak.
<snip>
Any ideas where
this leak might be coming from?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
======================
Rich...
Mine has done this twice in hot
weather (rare in Oregon), after being run
hard.
In my case it was
just the radiator overflow (which is why the light has
come on
now).
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS
Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished
throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at
.034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and
test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 12:17:48 -0400
From: RPM Motorsports <
rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight Stripping
One of my friends had completely gutted his
first generation 3000, he
had removed all seating, front active aero and
replaced it with the
non-aero skirt, pulled the entire cruise control unit
out, a/c, and then
some. I have some pictures of his interior. As I recall I
think he
installed a Cusco 10 or 12 pt roll cage also. I know he was posting
mid
or low 12 second passes with stock turbos and a malfunctioning MAF
meter
since his car was coughing black smoke everywhere and spitting
flames.
Pretty sure he can go faster actually fixed the meter.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 09:38:13 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Clutch problems-- need advice...
Because of all the hills here in San
Francisco, it's a local joke about how
quickly folks go through brakes and
clutches... It looks like I'm about to
become another
statistic.
I smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend who
lives up in the
hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a
30-degree hill around
curves and stumps for about 200 feet. I could
smell the disc burning so I
knew the harm I'd done...
That was a year
ago, but I haven't had problems until now. Whenever I try
to accelerate
hard on the highway (for passing, etc), the engine revs high
as if I'm
slipping the clutch, and then pops back in. It seems to happen
most
when I'm at fairly low revs for that gear (2nd gear and up) and I
accelerate
rather than downshifting to be in the 'proper' power band.
Is my disc
just polished or does this sound more like a throwout bearing or
adjustment
problem? I've already ordered one of the new RPS clutches as
part of
Roger's group purchase, but I'm wondering if I should worry that
something's
going to die completely before the clutch comes in... Any
similar
experiences out there...??? Advice...???
TIA,
Forrest
'94
Stealth NT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 12:39:53 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Weight Stripping -Reply
Incidentally, i don't think 11's with stock
turbos is possible, just plain not
enough power by my math. Unless of course
your planning in a
carbon-fiber frame? :).
Additional ideas: (btw- i
don't have a good feel if this is race only?)
- - a/c unit
- - fiberglass,
fiberglass, fiberglass. Replace as much as you can with
it....hood, front,
wing, trunk, etcc. Carbon fiber is an option, but so much
more expensive.
After fiberglass the back, get rid of the active aero
wing motor. Get rid of
the front control arm and motor as well.
- - exhaust: get a something like
the borla, stainless steel weights much
less. Get a single tube. Then take
out the active exhaust motor as well.
- - carbon fiber parking brake lever
:)
- - carbon fiber drive shaft @
www.nexusmotorsports.com- -
interior trim (plenty of that heavy crap)
Unsprung weight ~ 4x more
important
- - Cooltech rotors/calipers. Much much less weight then iron, 5x
thermal
conductivity, 2x the strength.
- - Volk wheels. 1/2 stock
weight.
- - Aluminum suspension components. Dunno much about these...but
i
think some of the parts are out there.
Ok i went till i got bored
;)
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/fiberglass Erebuni front
>>>
Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
04/05/99 12:01pm >>>
Andrew...
First off, ditch the seats
(front & back) and your spare tire. That will be
at least 100lbs. Ditch
the stereo and speakers (20lbs?). Get rid of the
wasted part of the exhaust
that goes to the right side of the bumper, it
doesn't do anything and weighs
40 lbs. Better yet, if this isn't for the
street, ditch the exhaust
completely. There's a carbon fiber hood out
there
somewhere but, as I
recall, they're expensive. Get a dry cell battery,
they
weigh only 14lbs
(compared to 40?). All the power goodies and
associated
wiring are
targets. The chrome wheels (with tires) are 58lbs each. Alloy
rims would be a
big gain. There was an article in Street Power a couple
years ago about
someone who remounted the engine, replaced the
tranny and
made a VR4 RWD.
It save a huge amount of weight (and surely cost a
huge
amount of
$$$).
The list goes on and on. Keep us posted on your
progress.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV,
Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 09:59:36 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [
mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Monday,
April 05, 1999 9:38 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
<snip>
That was a
year ago, but I haven't had problems until now. Whenever I try
to
accelerate hard on the highway (for passing, etc), the engine revs high
as if
I'm slipping the clutch, and then pops back in. It seems to happen
most
when I'm at fairly low revs for that gear (2nd gear and up) and I
accelerate
rather than downshifting to be in the 'proper' power band.
Is my disc
just polished or does this sound more like a throwout bearing or
adjustment
problem? I've already ordered one of the new RPS clutches as
part of
Roger's group purchase, but I'm wondering if I should worry that
something's
going to die completely before the clutch comes in... Any
similar
experiences out there...??? Advice...???
TIA, Forrest '94 Stealth
NT
=======================
Bob...
Does not sound like a throwout
bearing or poor adjustment. Sounds like a
perfectly polished "friction"
disc...which is not the way they were
designed. :-)
You
may have torched the pressure plate and flywheel as well, but the
pressure
plate and throwout bearing will be replaced with the new clutch and
you
should have the flywheel resurfaced at the same time.
I've done the same
to a number of clutches in my years at the dragstrips. In
those cases, you
have to replace if you're going to race. Under "normal"
street use, if it's
not slipping under all conditions, you have some life
left.
Suggestions...keep the revs up, avoid hard acceleration under lower
rpms,
stay off hills (move to Kansas?).
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell
battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy
turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 11:34:41 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <
andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Weight Stripping -Reply
Gavin Wallis wrote:
>
Incidentally, i don't think 11's with stock turbos is possible, just plain
not
> enough power by my math. Unless of course your planning in a
>
carbon-fiber frame? :).
- -snip-
Cummon man, where's the optimism
here?? Look even if You only pulled off low 12's think
of the
implications. If we just found a new way to shave some weight and drop .2
off
et's it would be worth the effort. Don't you think? They did
it on Gran Turismo, so it
must be possible, right?
My real question is
reguarding the headlight idea.
build an assembly looking like this:
http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpgThe
latch can come undone, and the whole assembly picots up 45 degrees, making a
perfect
cold air duct, for racing. You just unlatch it, and voila extra
HP. Any ideas, will
this work? When you leave the track, 2
seconds and your street legal. Loose the weight
of the motors,
etc. Any ideas for inexpensive projectors or reflective materials
to
use? Where can you get custom plexiglass cut? Car audio
shop?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 13:46:20 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheel/Tire combo for sale
I'm selling my stock 17" chrome wheels + brand
new Firestone SZ50's
25//40/17 tires.
The tires have around 500 very
easy highway miles on them. The
chrome wheels have minimal curb rash, not
noticeable from 5ft or so +
can't tell at all at night.
Asking $1750
for the whole deal. I'm going to buy some ultra lights ...
(sniff sniff....by
by chrome 4ever)
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 14:54:51 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Leaking
coolant
Rich, if any coolant got onto the belts it should be changed. The
coolant
will degrade the belts life dramatically.
Arty
In a
message dated 4/5/99 8:51:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: Leaking coolant
Date: 4/5/99
8:51:04 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
(Merritt)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com To:
stealth@starnet.net,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com Whilst
crawling around under the 94 VR4 yesterday, I spotted a coolant leak.
It was collecting on the oil filter, then dripping off.
Not a lot, but I never saw any leaks before.
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 14:54:11 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Weight Stripping -Reply -Reply
I didn't say it wasn't worth it or I
thought it was pointless. Quite the
opposite. Seeing "how low you can go" on
these cars is of paramount
importance...I applaud any efforts made.
I
just don't think it is feasible to hit 11's on stock turbos. Even
totally
gutted. If your gonna keep the basic
functions
present....awd...aws...etc...what makes a vr-4. Now if you remount
the
engine and make it RWD...I dunno, (still bet no).
Course, I would
LOVE/PRAY for someone to prove me wrong.
Gavin
'94 Black
VR-4
>>> Andrew Brilliant <
andrewb@infowest.com> 04/05/99 01:34pm
>>>
Cummon man, where's the optimism here?? Look even if You
only pulled
off low 12's think
of the implications. If we just found
a new way to shave some weight
and drop .2 off
et's it would be worth the
effort. Don't you think? They did it on Gran
Turismo, so
it
must be possible, right?
My real question is reguarding the
headlight idea.
build an assembly looking like this:
http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpgThe
latch can come undone, and the whole assembly picots up 45
degrees, making a
perfect
cold air duct, for racing. You just unlatch it, and voila extra
HP. Any
ideas, will
this work? When you leave the track, 2
seconds and your street legal.
Loose the weight
of the motors, etc.
Any ideas for inexpensive projectors or reflective
materials to
use?
Where can you get custom plexiglass cut? Car audio shop?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 14:42:35 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Weight Stripping
> I just don't think it is feasible to hit 11's on
stock turbos.
> Even totally
> gutted. If your gonna keep the basic
functions
> present....awd...aws...etc...what makes a vr-4. Now if you
remount the
> engine and make it RWD...I dunno, (still bet
no).
> Course, I would LOVE/PRAY for someone to prove me
wrong.
I'd tend to agree that 11's on the stock turbos would be
difficult. If you
could drop about 600 pounds off the VR4 and get it
down to Eclipse GSX
weight, us Eclipse guys still need to make at least 375
HP to get down the
track in under 12 seconds. Can you even get 350 HP
out of the stock turbos,
or do they run out of steam too early to hit that
high of a peak? I don't
think the power is so much the issue, but
finding 600 pounds of extra weight
is going to be the tough part...
That's a lot of weight to be ripping out!
I think you could find 200 pounds
easy enough, maybe 300.
A RWD VR4 I would love to see! :-)
-
-Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 12:48:48 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
- -----Original
Message-----From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
-
----------snip---------
|I've done the same to a number of clutches in my
years at the dragstrips.
In
|those cases, you have to replace if you're
going to race. Under "normal"
|street use, if it's not slipping under all
conditions, you have some life
|left. Suggestions...keep the revs up, avoid
hard acceleration under lower
|rpms, stay off hills (move to
Kansas?).
Sounds about right... I'm just so spoiled at being
able to bang it and
scoot in any gear that it's easy to forget... BTW,
I've already committed
to the RPS (with Roger's group purchase)-- but
has anybody out there had
negative experiences with the 'new' RPS Carbon
clutches for the S/3k NT?
And why KANSAS, (you fiend)??? Hasn't
anyone ever told them they're
actually allowed to LEAVE? :-) I'm
strictly a city boy...
TIA,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 13:27:12 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bob Forrest [
mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Subject:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
>
>
> Because of
all the hills here in San Francisco, it's a local
> joke about
how
> quickly folks go through brakes and clutches... It looks
> like I'm about to
> become another statistic.
>
> I
smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend who
> lives up in
the
> hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a 30-degree
> hill around
> curves and stumps for about 200 feet. I could
smell the disc
> burning so I
> knew the harm I'd done...
I
know this may be redundant redundant, but e-brake, my friend, e-brake.
While
I was going to school in Pittsburgh (not quite as bad as SF, but...)
I'm sure
that saved me several clutches. Use e-brake to hold you in place
as you
get off the brake pedal. Do the clutch/gas combo normally, drop
the
e-brake as you hit the friction point. People behind you'll think
you have
an automatic (although my old car-AT- would roll back on some hills
in SF).
If you use the e-brake correctly, you won't roll back *at all* and
there's
no danger of smoking the clutch, spinning the front wheels, or
hitting the
person behind you. Sorry if you already knew this, but a
surprising number
of people I talk to who have MTs have never heard of this
technique...
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
-
------
----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life
here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for
this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here
one will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone
without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality
here and now."
--T. S. Eliot
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 16:45:23 -0700
From: Nick Xiong <
nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Attn:
GA 3Sers: DX auto repair shop
DX Auto repair in Winder, GA will give ya
discounts on repairs. The
number is 770 867-5468, ask for Dang
Xiong. Dang used to work at
Peachtree Mitsubishi w/Ju Yang (head
mechanic, who did Parham's timing
belt for only $200). Dang now has his
own shop. He quoted me $250 for
labor on changing timing belt & all
belts. While Ju has gone to work for
Toyota. Anyway if ya want a
price quote give him a
call.
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.htmlor
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 16:45:47 EDT
From:
Dskull@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Ground
Control
Finally took the car out with the new set up. They sent me a top
plate for
the rear springs. Looks like the top plates for the fronts. Cut
the stock
bottom spring perches off the front GAB's. While I was cutting
them off,
though quite a bit about doing this to BRAND new struts. Worked
out Ok. For
now I have height on all four corners set to 1" above BOTTOM.
Have the camber
set 1/2 way, which is around 8 degrees or so. Need to modify
the rear camber
adjusters, think I will pull them out, elongate the holes,
and have the old
section filled with weld. Didn't push corners too much
first time out, but
turn in seemed to have improved quite a bit. Clearance
on the front tires is
tight between the tire and the adjuster collar. It's
about 1/4 in. I am
running 255/40/17's. Talks about LOW. With active aero
turned on in front I
have 3 1/4 " clearance. Spring rate seems pretty good,
650 front and 500
rear. Not as stiff as I expected, but stiffer than the
H&R's. Taking it down
to have balance adjusted on scales next. Also just
put in Porche 933 calipers
in front with pagid orange pads. Can't wait to
get on the track(s) again. 2
weeks to go :)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 15:48:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: RWD
Stealth
At least one exists. About a year ago on starnet, someone
posted a URL
about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT and converted it to
RWD. The
car had custom rear fenders to cover the whopping huge tires
he put on it
(I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90
degrees,
and had to add another set of the strut tower covers to give him
extra
clearance for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South
America,
as I recall.
Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL
where the pix were posted?
I can't find it. :(
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.netToday's mighty oak is
just yesterday's nut that held it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999, Matt
Jannusch wrote:
>
> A RWD VR4 I would love to see!
:-)
>
> -Matt
> '93 Eclipse GSX
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 16:52:07 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: RWD
Stealth -Reply
Yeah...that thing was a nightmare. Could not track
straight for it's life and
a whole slew of other problem.
Gavin
'94
Black VR-4
>>> Dennis Moore <
stealth@kiva.net> 04/05/99 04:48pm
>>>
At least one exists. About a year ago on starnet, someone
posted a URL
about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT and converted it to
RWD.
The
car had custom rear fenders to cover the whopping huge tires he
put on
it
(I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90
degrees,
and had to add another set of the strut tower covers to give him
extra
clearance for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South
America,
as I recall.
Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL
where the pix were
posted?
I can't find it. :(
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.netToday's mighty oak is
just yesterday's nut that held it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999, Matt
Jannusch wrote:
>
> A RWD VR4 I would love to see!
:-)
>
> -Matt
> '93 Eclipse GSX
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:21:32 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DSM Purchase Suggestions
Ask away Dennis, I had a 93 and
there are several friends that have a
variety of other models. As with the
3000GT, I don't have much use for
the Turbo FWD, not enough traction for the
power. If he plans to put
mods on it, it will only get
worse.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 15:24:24 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <
andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DSM Purchase Suggestions
I used to have a 300+ hp FWD ecliipse..
the steering wheel would go insane under
acceleration jumping 6-8 " back and
forth. It would lite up 2nd gear... given it was
cool to burn out for 1
full block, but it just didn't make much sense.
Ron Thompson
wrote:
> Ask away Dennis, I had a 93 and there are several friends
that have a
> variety of other models. As with the 3000GT, I don't have
much use for
> the Turbo FWD, not enough traction for the power. If he
plans to put
> mods on it, it will only get worse.
>
>
Ron
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:26:54 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit
MI) just opened this weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to
play soon. I'm running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors,
and all the HKS controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC
III, VPC, GCC etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs
boost. Car has a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS
Turbo Clutch (to be swapped with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it
dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current
set up with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the
street. Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise
boost to 20psi). Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels
including Mach 104 unleaded ($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is
there any reason I can't run leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would
the lead poison my O2 or damage anything else in the fuel
injection
system? I'm thinking a half tank of 104 or higher would be
good
security while running the car hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough
fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel delivery at the higher
engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch voltage during a run to
ensure the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich. What is the acceptable
voltage
during full boost from a stock O2 sensor? I do have an AFR gage
but
would rather look at actual voltage. I also have EGT probes for
both
front and rear banks, but they are located nearly a foot downstream
of
the turbos and therefore give marginal info at best.
Launch and
shifting Technique
I see that a majority of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving
1.8 second 60
foot times whether modified or near stock when aggressively
driven. Can
this be achieved without dumping the clutch. I'm
envisioning slipping
the clutch from around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me
during street
races). I've also come close to power shifting several of
my previous
cars but wont attempt this with the Stealth. I know
approximately .1
second can be made up with each shift by power shifting
(versus letting
off the gas and shifting as quickly as possible) - this based
on N.A.
cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power
shifting
all gears while the same car could only achieve 13.9's without
power
shifting (this was the fastest stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac
drag
get together at Milan last year - only mod was possibly a premium
fuel
calibration as downloaded from power programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right
foot
did not stay planted. Any way, do I have any hope of achieving mid
12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to power shift? What technique
have
some of the fastest cars out there used to achieve their times.
I
don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need to drive it
hard.
Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or better. Reason being
that
both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I can currently beat every
time out
but they are both ordering ATI superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they
expect to run mid 12's on street tires. So my mission is
to get the
most out of my car and perhaps upgrade as necessary to hang
or better yet
stay on top. BTY- is anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel
and or carbon fiber 2 piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best
lightweight rim out there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible
discussion board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:32:41 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trany leak
Nope, I was going to change the fluid because I
don't like the way it
shifts. That's when I noticed the
leak.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 15:37:42 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TORCO
Racing Fuel? & Launching?
When I raced at the import shootout in
Denver I never dumped the clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might
happen. plus the cost to replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what
I did was that I would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light
came on I would slowly let out the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus
keeping the turbos revved up and
then when the car starts to move then I
would pop it out the rest of the way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no
broken tranies. Now my time I ran was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft
above sealevel. So I'm sure if I dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would
be like what you stated in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at
what price do I want those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the
same technique since I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100
unleaded and the car ran great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas
that would be fine too but pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000
GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [
mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI)
just opened this weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to
play soon. I'm running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors,
and all the HKS controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC
III, VPC, GCC etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs
boost. Car has a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS
Turbo Clutch (to be swapped with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it
dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current
set up with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the
street. Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise
boost to 20psi). Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels
including Mach 104 unleaded ($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is
there any reason I can't run leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would
the lead poison my O2 or damage anything else in the fuel
injection
system? I'm thinking a half tank of 104 or higher would be
good
security while running the car hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough
fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel delivery at the higher
engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch voltage during a run to
ensure the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich. What is the acceptable
voltage
during full boost from a stock O2 sensor? I do have an AFR gage
but
would rather look at actual voltage. I also have EGT probes for
both
front and rear banks, but they are located nearly a foot downstream
of
the turbos and therefore give marginal info at best.
Launch and
shifting Technique
I see that a majority of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving
1.8 second 60
foot times whether modified or near stock when aggressively
driven. Can
this be achieved without dumping the clutch. I'm
envisioning slipping
the clutch from around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me
during street
races). I've also come close to power shifting several of
my previous
cars but wont attempt this with the Stealth. I know
approximately .1
second can be made up with each shift by power shifting
(versus letting
off the gas and shifting as quickly as possible) - this based
on N.A.
cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power
shifting
all gears while the same car could only achieve 13.9's without
power
shifting (this was the fastest stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac
drag
get together at Milan last year - only mod was possibly a premium
fuel
calibration as downloaded from power programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on 1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right
foot
did not stay planted. Any way, do I have any hope of achieving mid
12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to power shift? What technique
have
some of the fastest cars out there used to achieve their times.
I
don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need to drive it
hard.
Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or better. Reason being
that
both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I can currently beat every
time out
but they are both ordering ATI superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they
expect to run mid 12's on street tires. So my mission is
to get the
most out of my car and perhaps upgrade as necessary to hang
or better yet
stay on top. BTY- is anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel
and or carbon fiber 2 piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best
lightweight rim out there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible
discussion board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:55:59 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight Stripping
I've thought about this and I know Arty is
doing it. There is a ton,
almost literally of weight in our cars. Think about
all the luxo
features and what it takes to run them.
Power
windows
power door locks
power antenna
rear wiper
Exhaust
active
areo
cruise
AC
Full interior
Hood
Fenders
rear hatch
!!!!!
ABS pump
Stereo
The whole floor in the trunk
Active
stuts
28# flywheel
AIR pump and cats
stock wheels
discs
If
you think race car, barely street able there is tons of junk in the
car that
can go. 11 seconds is a reach but I don't think 600# is.
Ron
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Apr 1999 00:14:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
> Fuel
> To date,
I've run my current set up with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
> with good
luck on the street. Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
> track
(say I raise boost to 20psi).
The pro is that with racing fuel you can
prevent detonation with it and not by
dumping fuel in the chambers and
running too rich then. This will alow you to
lean it mroe out that finally
ends in more power :)
> Would the lead poison my O2 or damage anything
else in the fuel
> injection system?
I don't know if our O2 are
gonna be killed but the one on the Camaro of a friend
went south due to this.
It is not 100% sure because I think igniting gas in the
exhaust part was the
killer. Anything else will not be hurt by the lead.
> Also, is 4bars
(~59 psi) enough fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel delivery
> at the
higher engine speeds?
Where is your (new) redline ?
> What is
the acceptable voltage during full boost from a stock O2
sensor?
Unfortunately, the stock O2 sensors are somewhat digital and the
hysteresis of
the signal is very small. Therefore the signal jumps evry quick
from 900mV to
110mV and back. I learned that the readings are different on
the cars but the
ECU just looks for the change. To go the save way get a hig
hresolution O2
sensor (like Bosch) and hook up a Volt meter. Then around
750mV should be save.
> would rather look at actual voltage. I
also have EGT probes for both
> front and rear banks, but they are located
nearly a foot downstream of
> the turbos and therefore give marginal info
at best.
You may add some (50 or 100) degrees to the readings to get
close to what is
going on at the flame front.
> Launch and shifting
Technique
No add-on from me ... I'm maybe the worlds dumbest starter :-(
I know how to
drive very fast on tracks but starting is my weakest point. I
hope the RPS god
will help me in the future (info follows very
soon).
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.htmlFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 18:24:43 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RWD Stealth
> At least one exists. About a year ago
on starnet, someone posted a URL
> about a guy who had bought a Stealth
RT/TT and converted it to RWD. The
> car had custom rear fenders to
cover the whopping huge tires he put on it
> (I'm thinking 350's or
bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90 degrees,
> and had to add another
set of the strut tower covers to give him extra
> clearance for front end
of the engine. The owner lived in South America,
> as I
recall.
You sure you're not talking about a VR-4? If I'm remembering
correctly,
Todd Shelton posted a link to pictures he had on his site of a guy
that
took his first gen 3000GT w/ 2nd gen parts (or vice versa). He had
to
extended the panels on the side to accomadate a longer Porsche 944
RWD
driveshaft. When he rotated the engine 90 degrees, he had to put
two
additional strut covers on the hood for clearance. I'm searching out
the
pictures now. Hopefully if Todd sees this email he'll post the
URL.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:33:54 -0500
From: Wayne <
wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RWD Stealth
Okay,
The guys name is Isacc Perez, he lives
in Venezuala, and the car was
featured in "The best of Turbo magazine", if
that helps anybody.....
Wayne
At 05:24 PM 4/5/99 , you
wrote:
>> At least one exists. About a year ago on
starnet, someone posted a URL
>> about a guy who had bought a Stealth
RT/TT and converted it to RWD. The
>> car had custom rear fenders
to cover the whopping huge tires he put on it
>> (I'm thinking 350's or
bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90 degrees,
>> and had to add
another set of the strut tower covers to give him extra
>> clearance
for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South America,
>>
as I recall.
>
>You sure you're not talking about a VR-4? If I'm
remembering correctly,
>Todd Shelton posted a link to pictures he had on
his site of a guy that
>took his first gen 3000GT w/ 2nd gen parts (or
vice versa). He had to
>extended the panels on the side to accomadate a
longer Porsche 944 RWD
>driveshaft. When he rotated the engine 90 degrees,
he had to put two
>additional strut covers on the hood for clearance. I'm
searching out the
>pictures now. Hopefully if Todd sees this email he'll
post the URL.
>
>--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 18:37:04 -0400
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RWD VR-4 Found... I knew I could
This is a multi-part message in
MIME format.
- --------------6D2FA27171F625BEB87EB680
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Yup, here
ya'll go. A badass mobile on ONE of Todd's sites (aahah, Todd,
this is the
first time I've ever seen a personal site MIRRORED before..
good
work)
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/Perez.htmlYa,
thank me later. BTW, $50 finder's fee.heheheh
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
- --------------6D2FA27171F625BEB87EB680
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charset=us-ascii;
name="Perez.html"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Content-Disposition:
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Content-Base: "
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/Perez.html"
Content-Location:
"
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/Perez.html"
<html>
<head>
<meta NAME="Author" CONTENT="Todd
Shelton">
<meta NAME="GENERATOR" CONTENT="Mozilla/4.05
[en] (Win95; I) [Netscape]">
<title>Perez</title>
</head>
<body>
<a
HREF="Perez1.jpg"><img SRC="Perez1_s.jpg" HEIGHT="178"
WIDTH="300"></a> <a HREF="Perez2.jpg"><img
SRC="Perez2_s.jpg" HEIGHT="217" WIDTH="300"></a>
<p><a
HREF="Perez3.jpg"><img SRC="Perez3_s.jpg" HEIGHT="216"
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-
--------------6D2FA27171F625BEB87EB680--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 18:34:31 -0400
From: Gavin Wallis <
wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching? -Reply
High 11s? Hmm... I don't much
about your car...but if you are
successfully launching the way you say you
are and getting 12.7s don't
expect dropping the clutch to give you high 11s.
More like low 12s
maybe.
How much hp exactly do you have and what are
your mods? Not for this
discussion...just interested....
Gavin
'94
Black VR-4
>>> "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com> 04/05/99 05:37pm
>>>
When I raced at the import shootout in Denver I never dumped the
clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might happen. plus the cost
to
replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what I did was that I
would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light came on I would
slowly let out
the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus keeping the
turbos revved up
and
then when the car starts to move then I would pop it
out the rest of the
way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no broken
tranies. Now my time I ran
was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft above
sealevel. So I'm sure if I
dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would be
like what you stated in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at
what price do I want those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the
same technique since I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100
unleaded and the car ran great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas
that would be fine too but pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000
GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [
mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI)
just opened this weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to
play soon. I'm running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors,
and all the HKS controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC
III, VPC, GCC etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs
boost. Car has a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS
Turbo Clutch (to be swapped
with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it
dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current
set up with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the
street. Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise
boost to 20psi). Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels
including Mach 104 unleaded ($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is
there any reason I can't run leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would
the lead poison my O2 or damage anything else in the fuel
injection
system? I'm thinking a half tank of 104 or higher would be
good
security while running the car hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough
fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel delivery at the higher
engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch voltage during a run to
ensure
the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich. What is the
acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2 sensor? I do have
an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual voltage. I also have EGT
probes for both
front and rear banks, but they are located nearly a foot
downstream of
the turbos and therefore give marginal info at
best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority of the
fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether modified or
near stock when aggressively driven.
Can
this be achieved without dumping
the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from around 3500 rpm
(this worked well for me during street
races). I've also come close to
power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont attempt this with the
Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be made up with each shift
by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and shifting as quickly as
possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA
run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same car could only
achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest stock LS1 last
year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year - only mod was
possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on
1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way,
do I have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to
power shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there
used to achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but
I'll need to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to
hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is
anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2
piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion board
repetition
Joe Gonsowski
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 18:51:08 -0400
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Weight Stripping
> I'd tend to agree that 11's on the stock
turbos would be difficult.
Guys,
Is noone else aware that Adam
Weltz ran 12.32 (or very near), supposeldy with nothing
more than intake,
complete exhaust, and a boost controller. Also Mike Mahaffey ran
12.12@112.5 with stock turbos. I believe
virtually nothing was done to cut weight in
these cars. It aint all
that difficult guys.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 16:48:24 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <
pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TORCO
Racing Fuel? & Launching? -Reply
It is the way I'm launching because
my 60ft times are ranging from the
lowest of 2.1 and on that run a 2.5. I'm
loosing allot of time doing what I
do but it relief's the stress off of the
drive train. My mods are the same
as yours except for down pipe,hks
intercooler hard pipes, and gcc and
running ihi compressors over the 15g
setup. My mph is low which means I'm
loosing hp somewhere on top end which I
have yet to find out why??? I know I
have a bad injector that's being
replaced but I know I shouldn't of lost
that much from that so the search
does go on.
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Gavin Wallis [
mailto:wallisg@mwaa.com]
Sent: Monday,
April 05, 1999 4:35 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching? -Reply
High 11s?
Hmm... I don't much about your car...but if you are
successfully launching
the way you say you are and getting 12.7s don't
expect dropping the clutch to
give you high 11s. More like low 12s
maybe.
How much hp exactly do you
have and what are your mods? Not for this
discussion...just
interested....
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> "Palamara,
Peter" <
pala@gwl.com> 04/05/99 05:37pm
>>>
When I raced at the import shootout in Denver I never dumped the
clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might happen. plus the cost
to
replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what I did was that I
would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light came on I would
slowly let out
the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus keeping the
turbos revved up
and
then when the car starts to move then I would pop it
out the rest of the
way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no broken
tranies. Now my time I ran
was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft above
sealevel. So I'm sure if I
dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would be
like what you stated in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at
what price do I want those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the
same technique since I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100
unleaded and the car ran great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas
that would be fine too but pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000
GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [
mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI)
just opened this weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to
play soon. I'm running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors,
and all the HKS controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC
III, VPC, GCC etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs
boost. Car has a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS
Turbo Clutch (to be swapped
with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it
dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current
set up with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the
street. Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise
boost to 20psi). Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels
including Mach 104 unleaded ($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is
there any reason I can't run leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would
the lead poison my O2 or damage anything else in the fuel
injection
system? I'm thinking a half tank of 104 or higher would be
good
security while running the car hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough
fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel delivery at the higher
engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch voltage during a run to
ensure
the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich. What is the
acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2 sensor? I do have
an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual voltage. I also have EGT
probes for both
front and rear banks, but they are located nearly a foot
downstream of
the turbos and therefore give marginal info at
best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority of the
fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether modified or
near stock when aggressively driven.
Can
this be achieved without dumping
the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from around 3500 rpm
(this worked well for me during street
races). I've also come close to
power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont attempt this with the
Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be made up with each shift
by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and shifting as quickly as
possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA
run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same car could only
achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest stock LS1 last
year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year - only mod was
possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on
1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way,
do I have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to
power shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there
used to achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but
I'll need to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to
hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is
anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2
piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion board
repetition
Joe Gonsowski
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 18:11:58 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RWD
Stealth
pics are on todd shelton's mirror website:
http://www.qsl.net/n5mya/Perez.htmlOmar
92
r/t
>
> At least one exists. About a year ago on starnet,
someone posted a URL
> about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT and
converted it to RWD. The
> car had custom rear fenders to cover the
whopping huge tires he put on it
> (I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He had
rotated the engine 90 degrees,
> and had to add another set of the strut
tower covers to give him extra
> clearance for front end of the
engine. The owner lived in South America,
> as I
recall.
>
> Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL where
the pix were posted?
> I can't find it. :(
> > A RWD VR4 I
would love to see! :-)
> >
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 16:27:00 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaking coolant
Merritt wrote:
> Whilst crawling
around under the 94 VR4 yesterday,
> I spotted a coolant leak.
>
[snip]
> Any ideas where this leak might be coming from?
> Gotta fix
it: we're going racin' in two weeks.
Most likely it is a bad water
pump. I have this exact
same problem, and I am not repeat ~not~ happy
about
it. You definitely want to fix it because your timing
belt
could break if coolant got onto it. My local Mits quoted
me
$1000 to do the water pump and timing belt. I'll
probably end up doing
it myself. :-/
BTW, this is a fairly common problem with the
3000GT.
Not happy,
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 19:29:28 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <
twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
R.G. wrote:
>
> Also, is 4bars (~59 psi) enough fuel pressure to ensure proper fuel
delivery
> > at the higher engine speeds?
>
> Where is your
(new) redline ?
Through all the mods, I've maintained the stock redline
of 7,000rpm. Are many of you
running higher engine speeds? I
assume fuel cut-off is controlled in the ECU, right? I
don't think the
stock cam will make any usable power above 7,000rpm.
Joe
Gonsowski
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 20:20:40 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch problems-- need advice...
Bob,
Then move to Florida; it is
even flatter than Kansas, but a bit
more
hip!
Regards,
Lynn
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
>
And why KANSAS, (you fiend)??? Hasn't anyone ever told them
they're
> actually allowed to LEAVE? :-) I'm strictly a city
boy...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 19:24:05 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Water pump
Earlier, I asked from whence my coolant leak might be
coming, and several
people suggested that my problem may be a water pump
going south.
If this is the case, it should be covered under my extended
warranty.
What else should I have them take care of while they are in
there?
The car had its 60,000 mile service done last year, but I
don't know if
they replaced the tensioner (I bought the car with the service
completed).
Can I demand (successfully within the warranty) that they
replace the
timing belt on the grounds it may have been corrupted by the
coolant?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4 about 65,000 miles
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:59:12 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Powder Coating
Speaking of Powder Coating:
The March issue of
Powder Coating Magazine (it's a trade journal, no babes
in bikinis...)
features automotive applications for powder coating. In
addition to
wheels, springs, "cattle guards", valve covers, and other
applications which
have become quite common, Daimler-Chrysler (that still
sounds odd to say) is
using PC for corrosion control on the frame of the
SmartCar. It's the
first car in which the frame is 100% PC.
Also, DC is using powder coating
as the final clear coat for the SmartCar,
and all BMW's produced at their
Dingolfing Works plant have been PC finish
coated since 1996.
Now if
only someone would perfect a UV-curable do-it-yourself PC kit that I
could
apply in my garage...
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.netFor every action,
there is an equal and opposite criticism.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 20:50:45 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Powder Coating
Dennis Moore wrote:snip
> Also, DC is
using powder coating as the final clear coat for the SmartCar,
> and all
BMW's produced at their Dingolfing Works plant have been PC finish
>
coated since 1996.
>
How bullet proof is this PC clear coat (ie:
does it show the same swirls you'd get on a
clear coat over black, for
instance?)
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Apr 1999 00:15:07 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Paul,
I recently gutted all
3 of my cats, I won't begin to detail what a
pain it was, especially since
you didn't ask. The ECU acts no
differently, we did reset it for
this. My car idles very smoothly, no
apparent change from before.
The only draw-backs that I've noticed
would be an increase of exhaust fumes
when cold. I most frequently pull
nose first into my driveway, while
I'm backing up, usually with the
windows down, I can smell more
exhaust. I didn't replace the gaskets,
and it's possible I may have an
exhaust leak, but I have no reason to
believe so, no leaky exhaust
sounds. An exhaust leak would also explain
the rise in exhaust fumes
inside the cabin, but it seems to make sense
that no cats would do the
same.
On the plus side, my car definitely seemed to pull harder, and
it
sounds quite nasty now. It rumbles a bit at idle and low revs.
It
absolutely screams at high RPMs, especially through underpasses :)
It
will backfire mildly when it bounces off the rev limiter, and
sometimes
after letting off the gas or between shifting. Most of the
backfires
(if in fact that's what they are) are fairly mild pops, not like
you're
normal gunshot sounding backfire. It kinda disappointed me at
first,
but most of the seriously modified cars I've seen run sound very
similar
between shifts. It definitely doesn't sound smooth, kinda
rumbles and
gurgles. If you speak the language, it says I'm modified,
back off lest
I spank you severely :)
Jason
94 VR4
>
"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
>
> All-
> I would like to know what
concequences result from removal (or
> gutting)of
> either the main
cat, and/or the pre-cats on a '95 VR-4. Viz: What
> does
the
> ECU do differently as a result of the changed 02 sensor
outputs?
> Much thanks for any explanations.
> Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:51:27 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Concequences of Cat Removal
> -----Original Message-----
>
An exhaust leak would also explain
> the rise in exhaust fumes inside the
cabin, but it seems to make sense
> that no cats would do the
same.
I am not sure that I follow your reasoning here. If there is
no leak there
shouldn't be any more fumes in the cabin, but maybe without the
cats the
smell is stronger/different. *shrug*
>
On the plus side, my car definitely seemed to pull harder, and it
> sounds
quite nasty now. It rumbles a bit at idle and low revs. It
>
absolutely screams at high RPMs, especially through underpasses :)
It
> will backfire mildly when it bounces off the rev limiter, and
sometimes
> after letting off the gas or between shifting. Most of
the backfires
> (if in fact that's what they are) are fairly mild pops,
not like you're
> normal gunshot sounding backfire.
>
Jason
> 94 VR4
That is likely unspent fuel combusting in the
exhaust manifolds. It would
have been happening before too, but is now
likely just more noticale without
the extra baffling the cat would have
provided.
Reading your description piques my interest in hearing how
different my car
sounds with headers and the pre-cat eliminator pipes.
If I ever get the
damn engine in that is...
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:07:00 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Pre-cat eliminator pipes
>> -----In a related message Barry
wrote-----
>
>Reading your description piques my interest in hearing
how different my car
>sounds with headers and the pre-cat eliminator
pipes. If I ever get
Barry,
how did the pre-cat eliminator pipes
turn out? Is the fabricator willing to
turn out more of these, and if
so, do you know roughly how much they will
cost?
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:14:01 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: Free
part available
Anyone interested in a used fuel filter can come over to
my house and get
it - only problem is that it is still in the car... and the
bolts to the
fuel line are slightly rounded... I know we are not
supposed to swear on
this list, but sometimes it is just called for -
%$#@!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
tired and pissed off
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Apr 1999 01:46:03 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > An exhaust leak
would also explain
> > the rise in exhaust fumes inside the cabin, but
it seems to make sense
> > that no cats would do the same.
>
> I am not sure that I follow your reasoning here. If there is no
leak there
> shouldn't be any more fumes in the cabin, but maybe without
the cats the
> smell is stronger/different. *shrug*
Basically
as you said. I've got no reason to believe there is an
exhaust leak
besides the additional fumes. No rough running or loss of
power, no
whistles or other sounds. I'm assuming that what I smell is
due to not
being removed as the cats are intended to do. It also smells
somewhat
different, hard to explain though.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 22:44:04 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Pre-cat eliminator pipes
The pipes turned out great. I'll get some
new pictures sometime. Mine were
an experiement and they look good --
any new ones he builds should look even
better. They are Jet Hot
ceramic coated to boot which really adds a nice
touch to the look.
Seems a shame to put them in and have them turn color.
The coating should
help keep the heat in the pipe where it is supposed to be
and also make them
more durable (resistant to cracking from high temps).
The guy that built
them does not want to get into the fabrication game too
much, but may build
more of them if sufficient interest is generated. He
stated that he
definitely will not build them in quanitity and try and sell
them as there
just isn't any profit in it, so if any more are built they
will be on a per
customer order basis.
The front one is dead simple. The rear one is
the one that has scared off
so many other fabricators, yet this guy took a
look at it and wasn't
intimidated at all. It was a lot of work but it
turned out great. As to
price, I would expect them to be around $500 or
more for the pair with
ceramic coating, but I cannot speak for him.
Interested individuals would
have to call and ask him directly.
If
anyone wants his number please contact me privately. He also
does
exceptional headwork.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Barry,
> how did the pre-cat
eliminator pipes turn out? Is the fabricator
> willing to
>
turn out more of these, and if so, do you know roughly how much they
will
> cost?
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 06 Apr 1999 19:14:22 -0500
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> Subject: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? &
Launching?
> I wont attempt powershift with the Stealth.
approximately .1
> second can be made up with each shift by power shifting
(versus letting
> off the gas and shifting as quickly as possible) - this
based on N.A.
> cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's
with power shifting
> all gears while the same car could only achieve
13.9's without powershift.
> quick but right footdid not stay planted. do
I have hope of mid 12's
> if ~500 hp but refuse to power
shift? What technique have
> some of the fastest cars out there used
to achieve their times.
> Joe Gonsowski
I would not powershift
(leave foot on floor) to shift our cars if you want the synchros
to
last very long at all. You will start missing shifts (trans will block the
shift)
and then grinding gears. Also, on full boost, if you shift at
6700-6900 you will hit
revlimiter which can screw things up anyway. I
always lift throttle shift.
Jack Tertadian
'93 VR4 10.81 @
128.44
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 05:46:49 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
- -----Original
Message-----From: Gross, Erik <
erik.gross@intel.com>
|> I
smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend who
|> lives up in
the
|> hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a
30-degree
|> hill around
|> curves and stumps for about 200
feet. I could smell the disc
|> burning so I
|> knew the harm
I'd done...
|
|I know this may be redundant redundant, but e-brake, my
friend, e-brake.
|While I was going to school in Pittsburgh (not quite as bad
as SF, but...)
|I'm sure that saved me several clutches. Use e-brake to
hold you in place
- ------------friendly advice
snipped-----------
Absolutely. I'm glad you mentioned that for the
newer drivers... To many
of us old racers, though, using the e-brake
technique on anything less than
a killer hill would be an
embarrassment-- we pride ourselves on knowing our
car & clutch and
practiced exactly where the friction point is... I'll puff
out my chest
a bit by saying that on most hills up to 30 degrees (no,
Pittsburgh doesn't
have any, heh, heh...), I can get moving forward without
rolling back more
than a couple of inches WITHOUT using the e-brake method,
and without
slipping the clutch. But in San Francisco there are LOTS of
hills in
the 35 to 40-degree range where, in traffic, e-brake starts ARE a
must.
Recently, in our Team3S Bay Area Northwest Gathering in January
(BANG'99) I
took the other 8 S/3ks up a hill behind a 40-car waiting line to
see "Lombard
Street - the twistiest street in the world", and we ALL had to
e-brake up one
documented 38-degree, 600-foot hill, ONE car at a time
through the
intersection at the top just to get to it... And to give credit
to
those Team3S drivers-- none of us smoked the clutch (but mine started to
slip
a bit once it warmed up when we got near the top).
To keep this from just
being chat, let me make an important technical
point-- Our clutches
(even the ones on the turbos) are NOT made to take
that kind of punishment
any more than they are designed for towing farm
vehicles. Some racing
clutches can take 500 or 600 or more pounds of
holding pressure, but most
stock clutches can only take half that. (I
remember in a recent post
that Jack T's competition clutch did about 650# or
so...). I smoked my
clutch into oblivion, not with poor technique, but
because I simply made a
foolish choice-- going UP an unpaved 30-degree hill
(correction: my friend
told me it's 40-degree) IN REVERSE, and around
obstacles is just NOT
something the FWD Stealth NT was designed for...
(There are mountain bikes
that can't do it going forward!)
Any other feedback or advice on the
clutch replacement I ordered, the RPS
Carbon Claw, will be
appreciated...
TIA,
Forrest
For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:08:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Powder Coating
According to the article, BMW is convinced it's
superior. They spent
about 6 years on R&D before starting a pilot
project, and they went to
full production with it about a year
later.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.netToday's mighty oak is
just yesterday's nut that held it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
[snip]
>
> How bullet proof is this PC clear coat (ie:
does it show the same swirls you'd get on a
> clear coat over black, for
instance?)
>
> Best
>
> Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:08:04 -0500
From: Scott J Cowan <
sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
Hey all:
A buddy of mine made the mistake of thinking he
needed to go full-exec
and sold his Spyder last year, buying a LS 400.
That's right, a
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if
in the future he
was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with his
friends. (Ahem)
Anyway, what a surprise, his wife is now driving it
and he wants another
Spyder yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage,
black or white (no
red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last
year," and because
I have a VR4, I don't really know enough about the
Spyder's, so forgive
my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please
e-mail me privately, and
I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep
in mind we live up here in
sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd
probably prefer to find
something closer than New Zealand (no offense, Kevin,
Cheers!).
Thanks, and best
regards,
Scott
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 15:37:54 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <
Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: new toy
I just bought (stole, $12,750) a '94 VR-4. It has a few
bugs I need to get
worked out. My other car is a 91 RT/TT (for sale soon) so
I am not very
familiar with the new one.
The main things wrong with it
are:
1 active aero doesn't work
2 dash lamps don't work
3 interior fuse
#7, headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
work fine)
I
would look in my manual, but it's in Chicago. The car and I are presently
in
Los Angeles. I know how well Mitsu labels all their fuses, so was
wondering
if all 3 things are related. A short in the aero causes the fuse
to pop which
turns off the dash lights? I know I'm stretching, but to
troubleshoot you
mirrors you check the lighter. Is there anyone out there
who could help me
out.
Thanks
I love this car!!!
'94 Green VR-4
'91 Pearl
While RT/TT
'86 Yamaha V-max
gotta go! gotta go!
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com - -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
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page is
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End
of Team3S Digest V1 #144
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