--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #140
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Thursday, April 1 1999         Volume 01 : Number 140




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 11:48:14 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny Question -Reply

At 11:54 AM 3/31/99 -0500, you wrote:
>How long of a warranty are you getting when you have these new
>tranny's installed? I plan to getting mine replace soon under my extended
>warranty...(poor shifting, noisy, erratic behavior).
>
Mine was done at the Mitsu dealer. They warrant it for a year.
My extended warranty still covers it to 96,000 (30,000 from now)

Rich/old poop
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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 12:21:58 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info

You guys are reffering to the twin turbo models i hope
My 92 NT is 10mm all the way around.

Omar


> Better make that Jan 92 - May 93.  Mine is a Jan 92 and has the 7mm
> rears.
>
> Later,
>
> Jose

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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 14:01:19 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Erebuni Update

Well I just got off the phone with Erebuni's prez. The good news is that
they successfully made the mold for my 94 2nd gen. AND with a little
pushing & work, I got them to make the mold capable of retaining the front
active aero.

The only thing that wasn't perfect was fitting the new front around the
intercoolers. They had to bend the lower outside corners of each
intercooler a little. This bend really won't make any difference in
performance or reliability. The intercoolers are already fed more air from
the massive ducts of the new front, (BTW- talk about opportunity galore
for "ram air-ing" the engine and brakes).

Incidentally Erebuni has been great to work with, very professional. Even
offered to paint the new piece since they were going to take 2-3 days
longer to finish the mold. (told them no cuz I'm painting the whole car
when it gets back).

All in all, woo hoo.

Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/new front
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Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 12:10:00 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Items for sale

I have some items for sale which perhaps someone will find useful.  I will
consider offers on this stuff.  Buyer pays shipping + insurance from
Phoenix, AZ.  Prefer prepaid by money order, but will consider COD.  Can
provide digital imagines to serious enquirers.

Stock exhaust system from a 1994 Mistubishi 3000GT VR4.  Offers
Decent condition.  Active exhaust bits not included.  Downpipe also
availble.  Does NOT include catalytic converter.  This will be a pain to
package for shipment and freight charges will likely be expensive.  Prefer
pickup in Phoenix, AZ.

Set of 6 stock injectors from a 1994 3000GT VR4. Offers
Removed from car in working condition at 47,000 miles.  365 cc/min.

New, never installed or used Apex'i Turbo Timer. $100
Comes with with original box and manual.  Also have the wiring harness.
Bought it a year ago or less, likely won't get installed so it may as well
go.

Stock turbos from a '94 VR4.  TD04L-9B 6 cm^2.  $350.00 OBO (pending)
Removed in working condition at 47,000 miles.



Regards,

Barry

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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 11:49:06 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info

Omar, you wrote ;

> You guys are reffering to the twin turbo models I hope
> My 92 NT is 10mm all the way around.

snip

Yours had to be  produced before the dates quoted Omar, hence 10 mm all round, as it is
my 92 TT.

> snip
>
> > Better make that Jan 92 - May 93.  Mine is a Jan 92 and has the 7mm
> > rears.
> >

Best

Darc

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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 15:23:53 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Torque Wrench

Anybody out there have a 1/4" drive, in-lb, dial type torque wrench they
would be willing to lend to a fellow Mitsu mechanic? (You know, the one
used to adjust the timing belt tension)

Also, speaking of timing belts, The book tells you to put a pin through the
tensioner's shaft, apply 7ft-lbs of torque to the tensioner pully, tighten
up the pulley's lock bolt, then remove the pin. Maybe i'm missing something
here, but 7ft-lbs is not going to be nearly enough pressure to press the
piston in enough to remove the pin. It took quite a bit of 'muscle' using a
vise to press the piston in. Is there a trick to performing this operation?
Thanks for any help you can provide....

Wayne
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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 14:10:44 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench

Wayne:

As I recall from doing mine, the tensioner pin is in place
in the tensioner, then torque is applied using the special
tool on the pulley in the direction against the
held-in-place pin, then the bolt is torqued holding the
pulley.  After the recommended turning of the pulleys by
hand (# of turns one way, # of turns another, if I remember
correctly), to make sure everything is correct, the pin may
be removed from the tensioner.  Trust me, the pin will come
out easily enough.

On a related note, are you replacing the tensioner and water
pump while you've got the chance?  After all the
monkey-motion it takes to get there, another $125 for a
couple parts might save future costs.

Rich

Wayne wrote:

<snip>
 
> Also, speaking of timing belts, The book tells you to put a pin through the
> tensioner's shaft, apply 7ft-lbs of torque to the tensioner pully, tighten
> up the pulley's lock bolt, then remove the pin. Maybe i'm missing something
> here, but 7ft-lbs is not going to be nearly enough pressure to press the
> piston in enough to remove the pin. It took quite a bit of 'muscle' using a
> vise to press the piston in. Is there a trick to performing this operation?
> Thanks for any help you can provide....
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Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 16:53:20 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench

Rich,
I thought about that too, but the water pump was replaced at about 50k
miles, and the tensioner took so much force on the vise to compress, i
figured it must be in pretty good shape also.

Did you torque the belt to 7ft-lbs, or did you just hold it "tight" with a
ratchet? The reason i ask is this; I borrowed the "special tool" from an
aquaintence at the dealer. The pins are bent in such a way that suggests
over torqing. I'm thinking maybe he torques it down pretty tight because
the last time he did 7ft-lbs, the car came back with a bad engine. What did
you torque yours to, and how long has it been "holding on"?

Wayne

At 02:10 PM 3/31/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Wayne:
>
>On a related note, are you replacing the tensioner and water
>pump while you've got the chance?  After all the
>monkey-motion it takes to get there, another $125 for a
>couple parts might save future costs.
>
>Rich


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 18:01:09 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny Question -Reply

This is great since I'm about to install a 6 speed in my 93 VR4 due to a
damaged transmission and transaxle.  I though the 6 speeds didn't have the
problems that the older 5 speeds did.  Well I hope I don't run in to
anything like this once I get mine installed.
After checking on my car I found out that the transmission had been replaced
a few years back under warranty.  I since then found out that the warranty
on the newly installed transmission was only for one year.  Oh well thought
there might have been a chance there.

Andy
93 VR4



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 15:03:07 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench

Wayne:

My tensioner also took quite a bit to compress (the trick is
to go slooooowly), but I replaced it anyway.  For the $27 or
so, it was cheap insurance. 

The torque I used for everything was dead-nuts from the
book.  I don't remember the exact values, but whatever it
called for I used - 7 ft-lbs sounds right.  I didn't bend
the pins on the little tool though, that's for sure.  It
sounds like somebody got a little heavy-handed there.

I did my 60k shortly after it rolled 60k on the odo (maybe
63k?), and I'm better than 75k now (it's a daily driver &
grocery-getter).  Knock wood, I haven't had any problems
from anything done at the 60k other than a squeaky A/C belt
when I turned the unit on.  It took several adjustments on
the idler to get the tension right on that.

Hope this helped.

Rich

Wayne wrote:
>
> Rich,
> I thought about that too, but the water pump was replaced at about 50k
> miles, and the tensioner took so much force on the vise to compress, i
> figured it must be in pretty good shape also.
>
> Did you torque the belt to 7ft-lbs, or did you just hold it "tight" with a
> ratchet? The reason i ask is this; I borrowed the "special tool" from an
> aquaintence at the dealer. The pins are bent in such a way that suggests
> over torqing. I'm thinking maybe he torques it down pretty tight because
> the last time he did 7ft-lbs, the car came back with a bad engine. What did
> you torque yours to, and how long has it been "holding on"?

<snip>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 17:23:51 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench

$27????? I'm picking up the phone right now!!!! I figured they were at
least $100......

At 03:03 PM 3/31/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Wayne:
>
>For the $27 or
>so, it was cheap insurance. 


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 22:24:53 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Team3S: RE: New Tranny Question

Ok here is some more info....http://www.concentric.net/~Bcdmad/tranny1.jpg
 It's the part with the line under it.


On the 5 speed vr-4 tranny there a plug I'm having a problem with.  On the
side of the tranny with the drain plug (the side that faces the passenger
side wheel) there is a plug.  It looks like a mushroom with a flat top.
 It's above the drain plug about 8-10 inches and forward about 3-4 inches.
   From the side profile the plug looks like a "T"  with the plug part
being on top and a shaft coming out if it.  It plugs a hole about 2 1/2
inches in diameter.  It tried to push the shaft into the tranny but there
was no slot in the hole for it to slide into.  I know this is where it goes
but it seems to have a Allen head bolt where the shaft should go into the
tranny.  Can anyone help me with this.  The manuals don't show this side of
the tranny and thus are no help.

Thanks,

Brian
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 20:47:34 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: New Tranny Question

>Ok here is some more info....http://www.concentric.net/~Bcdmad/tranny1.jpg
> It's the part with the line under it.
>
>
>On the 5 speed vr-4 tranny there a plug I'm having a problem with.  On the
>side of the tranny with the drain plug (the side that faces the passenger
>side wheel) there is a plug.  It looks like a mushroom with a flat top.


not much help for you, but, a month or so ago there was a post
about a trans repair and a comment about this plug being
removed to access the bolt for disassembly of the trans.
.
.

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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 04:45:02 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Bumper Skirt

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

I would like to put dual exhaust, either a bolt on or have a custom made =
for my 1992 stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only the oem exhaust =
cutout in it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match my color or =
what is a person to do run duals back as far as you can and then put =
them together before the bumper. Please need help!

- --Boundary_(ID_tx1CeWkQOCLRKfPQheP85w)
Content-type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I would like to put dual exhaust, either a bolt on =
or have a=20
custom made for my 1992 stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only the =
oem=20
exhaust cutout in it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match my =
color or=20
what is a person to do run duals back as far as you can and then put =
them=20
together before the bumper. Please need help!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- --Boundary_(ID_tx1CeWkQOCLRKfPQheP85w)--
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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 08:17:10 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Torque Wrench

With our discount from Tall. Mitsu (15% + 5% if we pay the $8 shipping...15%
and they pay shipping)
Tensioner = $62.62
Water Pump = $78.54

Mark
'91RT/TT


- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:24 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench


$27????? I'm picking up the phone right now!!!! I figured they were at
least $100......

At 03:03 PM 3/31/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Wayne:
>
>For the $27 or
>so, it was cheap insurance. 


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 10:34:50 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Bumper Skirt -Reply

Goto www.spoilers.com.

This is Erebuni, (see my message from yesterday about them). You can
buy a rear skirt that will give you dual exhaust holes and in my opinion, a
better looking rear. Cost is ~300.

Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/new Erebuni front

>>> Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com> 04/01/99 05:45am >>>
I would like to put dual exhaust, either a bolt on or have a custom made
for my 1992 stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only the oem exhaust
cutout in it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match my color or
what is a person to do run duals back as far as you can and then put
them together before the bumper. Please need help!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:22:21 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Team3S: New hood insulation-received and installed

FYI,

I received my new hood insulation yesterday from Tall. Mitsu.  It came in a
very large box.

I received it undamaged and it is molded to fit my hood exactly.

The cost was $35+$8 shipping

I bought the one for the '91 VR4 and it fits my '91 RT/TT perfectly

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:59:22 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Team3S: K&N Aircharger instead of K&N FIPK

A while ago, there was a discussion about using an Aircharger from a '95-'98
Eclipse on our Stealths and VR4s.  Well...I bought the Aircharger for
80bucks and installed it. The Aircharger is much larger than the FIPK and I
had to modify the bracket(drilled one hole) to mount the filter firmly to
the fender well so it didn't move.  It took me about 1/2hr to install.

Things to consider....

-This is much larger than the FIPK(It appears to be longer, not
thicker and therefore there is not a hood clearence problem).  Because it is
larger, I would guess that I flows better(I have not measured this).

-I was not able to install my Blitz DSBC solenoid in the place that
is common(R.G. and John Adams location), because the filter extends into
that area.  I had to mount it under the Relay/Fuse box near the filter.
There is a cover under the box that unsnaps.  I drilled two holes in this
cover and bolted the solenoid to it(works great! and is hidden from view).

-This filter is not C.A.R.B approved.  I don't think that this
matters unless you live in Calif.(you may want to check this)

-Cost $80 for the Aircharger, $145 for the FIPK

-The kit does not come with cleaner or oil($8), but does come ready
to use(pre-oiled).


I think that this is a great alternative to the more expensive FIPK.

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
 
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 12:27:34 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo upgrade question

If I were to put 15g's in my car now...without making the necessary fuel
management mods and boost mods, would I necessarily be hurting
anything?

I assume that the 15g's will simply hold stock 12.5psi boost to the redline
and I will not be in any danger of running lean.

So...any benefits? any dangers?

Thanks,
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:51:08 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit

Has anybody installed the Erebuni ground effects kit on a 1st gen (part #
366)?  I was wondering how well it fit and if any major/minor modifications
were necessary to either the body or the kit were necessary.

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 13:29:53 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
Subject: Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit -Reply

It will fit very well if you have someone who knows fiberglass. They are
quality kits though...i've recently seen a bunch.

Gavin

>>> "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> 04/01/99 12:51pm >>>
Has anybody installed the Erebuni ground effects kit on a 1st gen (part #
366)?  I was wondering how well it fit and if any major/minor
modifications
were necessary to either the body or the kit were necessary.

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #140
****************************

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