--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #139
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Wednesday, March 31 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
139
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:57:08 -0800
From: jsp <jsp@rancho.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad
clutch master or slave cyl?
had the same thing happen to me......mechanic
said dont replace the master unless you
replace the slave as well......i
replace the master.....a month later the slave went
out and it cost me
more...........i would do both......youve got a nice car......dont
cut
corners on something as small a cost as that.....do em both.....just
my
experience......take it for what its worth
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
> I've been
having problems with the clutch on my '91 VR4. Once or twice a day
> now I
get a nearly resistance-less motion on the clutch pedal for about half
>
the clutch pedal stroke when I step on the pedal to shift. The clutch
does
> disengage, allowing me to shift, but when I let out the pedal once
again the
> clutch hooks up much earlier than normal (i.e. the clutch did
not go full
> travel when I stepped on the clutch pedal to shift - it just
went far enough
> to barely disengage)
>
> I can get the
clutch to return to normal operation by stepping on the clutch
> pedal
several times while in neutral. I intrepret this as building up pressure
>
in the system once again. I had the system bled several days ago -
didn't
> help.
>
> So, I think I have a bad master or slave
cylinder. But which one? I don't have
> any leakage from the slave and the
level of the fluid in the reservior doesn't
> change as far as I can tell,
so I think the master is bad.
>
> That is all fine and dandy, but a
Mitsu parts dealer who posted to this group
> tells me that he sells a few
slaves now and then, but doesn't even stock the
> master as he never sells
any. Hmmm.
>
> I need as many replies as I can get reporting failure
of either the slave or
> master cylinder for the clutch. Also please
report year and model - SL, VR4,
> RT, RT/TT, etc. I'm trying to get a
better idea of the regularity of failures
> for the slave vs. master. This
will help me make a more educated wag. Please
> private email to me. I'll
tally the results and post for others general
> knowledge.
>
>
Thanks!
>
> Paul Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 10:27:22 -0700
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Daily Driver
Every one on this list, knows as well as I do, that owning
one of our
cars can be very expensive. Many people have been working on
lowering
the cost of owning our vehicles. I think this is a commendable a
effort,
and as far as myself I would like to add something else. How
to
purchase cheap reliable transportation. The daily driver is a
very
important tool that is widely overlooked, as a way of cutting
ownership
cost of our vehicles. I found out through the years that you can
buy a
good second vehicle for around 1200 to 2000 bucks. You might ask how
can
you get a price like that on a vehicle very simple auto auctions.
That
is where I bought my car when I was in collage. I paid 550 bucks
for it
cash. This price included tax. Auctions are everywhere and
in every
city most dealers don't like you to go to them because at auctions
you
can get a car at wholesale price and most of the time below
wholesale
value. When looking for an auction in your area check the
yellow pages
and call the auction houses and ask them are you open to the
general
public eight out of nine our only a few are dealer only. Before you
go
make sure and buy an, NADA book that has the retail value along with
the
wholesale value of the car. This is a great tool for spotting the
good
deal. Still another avenue to check for vehicle are banks and
Credit
Union,. Banks and Credit Unions reposes cars and sale them for
what
ever they can get and most don't really advertise the vehicles for
sale,
but most of the vehicles for sale or like a year old or a little
order.
I saw many awesome deals out their. I once even saw a two year old
VR4
that got reposed for sale. I believe it sold for around 22k.
Remember
they don't car how much they get the highest bidder get the vehicle.
As
far as vehicle inspecting, check bring someone with you or read up
on
things to look for when purchasing a vehicle. I am trying to keep
this
post short, so I will not go into that.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 10:20:26 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size
Info
> I'd like to
verify if the brake bleeder screw size for the '97
3000GT
> VR4 is
1.0x10mm. I talked to a Speedbleeder rep. and she informed
me
> that this was the
size she had in her "majik decoder ring" book
but
> she also warned me
that she received a few returns from a
certain
> 3000GT club
members 'cuz the bleeders don't fit in their cars.
Hi Sankar,
You
could always pull one front screw and one back screw and compare
their sizes
and thread pitch. Or you could just order both sizes, then
return the
unused ones. So far, I've only heard of these two sizes for
our
cars: 10 mm x 1.0, part # SB1010; and 7 mm x 1.0, part # SB7100.
These are great! Order an SB1010 for your clutch slave cylinder
too.
Good luck.
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three
lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 14:06:02 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: steering
pump sending unit?
I am curious what the purpose of the pressure
switch on the power steering
pump is? This is on my '91 NT 3000GT and it is
ont the top of the p.s. pump.
Anyone know what it
does?
SteveC
'91 3000GT
SL
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 11:23:12 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Changing struts, was: GAB Sport strut prices
> Is changing the
struts something someone with average hand tools can do
> at
home?
I recently changed my struts and springs myself. I used
the
instructions from the posts below. I was planning on rewritting
the
instructions for the do-it-yourselfer but haven't gotten around to
it
yet. However, here are a few pointers.
Note the position of
the front camber adjustment bolts before you loosen
them.
I removed
the front assemblies, then took them to a local tire shop
(with a spring
compressor) to swap the hardware. It cost $40. You
could rent a
spring compressor and do it yourself but this is very
dangerous!
For the rear struts top mount, I used a small pipe wrench to hold
the
large washer with 'flats', then used a wrench to turn the nut. If
you
use a wrench to hold the strut shaft instead of the large washer,
you
will bung up the threads on the ECS strut.
Note that the rear
strut lower mount hole is flared, so put it on the
flared stud
correctly.
When installing the rear top mount, pull the metal spacer
(that fits on
the strut shaft) up so that it sits only halfway into the top
rubber
bushing. Then place the lower washer over spacer. Next,
place the top
washer and nut on. The top washer will rest on the spacer
while the
bottom washer will fit around the spacer. Thus when you
tighten the
nut, the spacer will be pushed all the way to the stop and you
will
assured that the lower washer will be around the spacer instead
of
offset and resting on the top of the spacer.
Good
luck,
Ken
- ------- Included file from Henri Feusi
-------------
ATTENTION:
You _DO_NOT_
need a spring compressor to replace the rear struts.
You can replace the struts in about 30
minutes(15min a piece).
I have done this twice(during intermission while watching a
Penguins
Hockety Game), and it is extremely simple.
Do the
following:
1. Place a
standard 2 ton hydraulic shop jack(the one with the long
handle) directly under the lower arm on your rear
end of your
suspension - make sure it is a solid
point.
2. Jack the car
up until the wheel is off the ground - you will
have
to jack quite a bit since you are jacking the car
up on the
suspension, and the spring is
compressing.
***
IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP*** Place a jack stand raised to the proper
level under the regular jack point on the car
****
3. At this point,
remove the wheel(you might want to crack the lugs
on
the ground before jacking if you don't have an air
impact wrench).
4. Now,
from inside the car, remove the strut covers in the trunk
located under the roll-up tarp.
5. Remove the rubber
dust cup, tehn unplug the wiring harnes from
the
strut.
6. Loosen the
BIG nut on the strut - you may require two wrenches
to
do this, one to keep the center from rotating, and
one to do the
work.
Do this slowly just to
be safe(if you did not compress the spring
enough,
you may experience a surprise :)- completely remove
the
nut.
7. Go back under the car, and remove the bolt
holding the strut in
place. Once removed, you may
require a bit of prying effor to get
the
strut
to slide off the lower mount.
8. Once the strut is off the lower mount, you'r
done! Slide it out
and
you are ready to put the
new one in.
OPTIONAL - but cool
looking.
** If you wish
to check/paint your springs(Yellow is always nice),
this is a good time to lower the jack slowly(leave the jack stand
in
place). The spring will decompress and you can
simply remove that
as
well.***
Installation is reversal of
removal.
NOTES:
Mitsubishi replaced their struts after 92 with a
"one size fits
all"
model. There is a TSB
on this, and and easy fix. The 91(92
too?)'VR4's
had a small spacer installed under the retaining nut,
this
was removed on later models because the strut is
just a little
shorter. You cannot buy the older
struts anymore, so you are stuck
with the shorter
ones. - This is not a problem, just discard the
spacer and you'll be OK.
While you are at it, I recommend purchasing new
Rubber stops -
these
get worn pretty bad, and if
they are torn, they are no good.
Should
be
small $$ at a mitsu dealer.
I can provide picture
of the strut installtion if anyone requires
them.
It's a SIMPLE and
SAFE procedure.
H.
- ---------------- Included file from Jose
----------------
Henry,
First of all, thanks for the post about
the rear struts.
Now, for the front ECS struts:
1) loosen lug
nuts, raise front and put on jack stands (for
safety),
remove
wheel.
2) Open your hood, remove the 3 nuts on the
strut assembly, remove the
rubber
dust cover. Now you'll see the ECS
electrical connector. Just pull it
straight
out, do not
rotate.
3) Now for the bottom part, using a breaker bar or something
similar (I
used a
1/2" socket wrench with a 4 ft long tube attached to it
for more
torque!!!)
remove the two nuts that attach the struts to the
brake assembly. Use a
lot of
WD-40 and let it soak for about 15
min.
4) To remove the bolts just tap them out with a hammer. NOTE: Before
you
tap
this bolts out, remove all the brackets that attach the brake
lines to
the strut
assembly.
5) Now you should be able to move
back and forth the strut assembly
until it
comes out of the brake
assembly.
With the proper breaker bar (4 ft long in my case! :) )
it took me
about 40
minutes to remove the first one, and about 10 to 15
min for the second
one
because I already knew how to do it.
Good
luck!
- -Jose
- -------------------------
Two wrongs don't make
a right, but three lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 11:48:05 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info
Ken;
Is the part # SB1010 an
all round fit on the first generation (ie: x 5)?
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 12:02:14 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info
Hi Darc,
> Is the part #
SB1010 an all round fit on the first generation (ie: x 5)?
It is for my
'91 VR4. Someone's recent post however mentioned that the
size for
their rear calipers is the 7 mm x 1.0 (SB7100). I think their
year is
'93 but I don't remember the model
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right,
but three lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:07:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! Day 3
Friends,
The GP is doing
well and we hope to get some more to get another price drop :)
Please
note this GP will end on April 4th, so check out the GP page with the
FAQ
asap and let me know personally if you want one (or more) or if you have
more
questions.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
Of
course, let all your friends at the Dragnet/Starnet know about the
GP.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:16:32 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! Day 3
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
I
just noticed that GeoCities has a big problem and all the pages
are
unavailabel at the moment. So please be patient and try again later
:)
Thanks,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 13:40:12 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! Day 3
I just visiited and the page is
back up as of 1.40 pm West Coast time.
Darc
R.G.
wrote:
> > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
>
>
I just noticed that GeoCities has a big problem and all the pages are
>
unavailabel at the moment. So please be patient and try again later
:)
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 17:40:47 -0500
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
touch-up paint
So I go try to get touch-up paint from my local Dodge
dealer for my 93
Stealth ES, which is silver in color, and they don't have
any. I pay
for it and order it, and the guy says it will be a couple of
days. O go
back a week later, and it isn't there. I go back
today, which is two
weeks after I ordered it. It's still not
there. The guy checks
Chryslers computer to see if they've sent
it. It turns out that they NO
LONGER MAKE the stuff. I'm like,
Oh! Great! Now what am I going to do?
Hopefully, he says, we can have
it sent from another Dodge dealer that
has some left. Has anyone else
run into this problem??
Leland
1993 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 18:26:15 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: FP
gauge install options
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_011F_01BE7ADA.CC3A8900
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hey everyone,
I see two options for installing my
electronic Autometer fuel pressure =
gauge. I'd like to solicit
opinions from the group on these =
alternatives. Maybe there are other
alternatives as well??
1. Tap the fuel rail and install transducer
right there
2. Tap banjo bolt on the outgoing fuel line out of the fuel
filter. =
Using a reducer (1/4 to 1/8), install transducer in the hole
on top of =
the banjo bolt. When installing I will make sure the
transducer do not =
block the passage into the fuel line.
In my
opinion it is easier to install the transducer into the banjo =
bolt.
This
installations option was recommended by a local speed shop.
=
Apparently they have used this kind of setup for NOS installations in
=
the past.
I need help with opinions/experiences here - Is the banjo
bolt install =
going to give me accurate readings? Can I expect the
same fuel pressure =
at any point between the fuel filter and the FP
regulator? If not, am I =
better off installing closer to the FP
regulator, or closer to the fuel =
filter. Also if there is pressure
drop, it would be interesting to know =
roughly how much the drop could be
expected to be, maybe it is =
negligible?
Thanks in advance for
sharing your comments with this inexperienced =
mechanic.
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
- ------=_NextPart_000_011F_01BE7ADA.CC3A8900
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hey everyone,<BR><BR>I see two
options for installing my electronic =
Autometer fuel pressure
gauge. I'd like to solicit opinions from =
the group=20
on these
alternatives. Maybe there are other alternatives
as=20
well??<BR><BR>1. Tap the fuel rail and install
transducer right=20
there<BR>2. Tap banjo bolt on the
outgoing fuel line out of the =
fuel=20
filter. Using a reducer
(1/4 to 1/8), install transducer in the =
hole on=20
top of the banjo
bolt. When installing I will make sure the =
transducer
do=20
not block the passage into the fuel line.<BR><BR>In my
opinion it is =
easier to=20
install the transducer into the banjo
bolt.<BR>This installations option =
was=20
recommended by a local
speed shop. Apparently they have used this =
kind of=20
setup
for NOS installations in the past.<BR><BR>I need help
with=20
opinions/experiences here - Is the banjo bolt install going to give
me =
accurate=20
readings? Can I expect the same fuel pressure
at any point between =
the=20
fuel filter and the FP regulator?
If not, am I better off =
installing=20
closer to the FP regulator, or
closer to the fuel filter. Also if =
there is=20
pressure drop,
it would be interesting to know roughly how much the drop =
could=20
be
expected to be, maybe it is
negligible?<BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Thanks in advance for
sharing your comments with this
=
inexperienced=20
mechanic.<BR><BR>Oskar<BR>'95 R/T
TT<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_011F_01BE7ADA.CC3A8900--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:10:00 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
touch-up paint
Leland,
post the part number if you have it and I will
check with our local dealers.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
- -----Parts of
Original Message-----
>Hopefully, he says, we can have it sent from
another Dodge dealer that
>has some left. Has anyone else run into
this problem??
>
>Leland
>1993 Stealth
ES
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 20:42:04 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question
>Dennis Moore wrote:
>> stick on tranny was
rocking back/forth as press/release gas pedal. It
>> only
happened in 5th, was most noticeable above 60 mph.
>> "sign of the
end", or less ominous?
Hi Jack!
Haven't interrogated you in a
while. I hope the intervening time has been
to your liking - holidays
and all. I now
have my second new 6-speed transaxel, installed under
warranty, making a
total of three. The first was replaced
due to a
lube leak; the second was replaced with a
transfer case as well, due to gear
noise, and this last
was replaced due to gear noise. The gear noise
is,
I believe, inherent to the 6-speed Getrag - I've now
had three new
ones that have all had it. I guess I'm pretty
"nit-picky," because I've
heard several fairly reliable sounding guys on the
lists say they don't
detect any
noise. This is long winded; let me get to the point:
Per
your and other knowledgeable folks advice, I
installed Redline MT90, (on the
back of the bottle it
says 75W90), and it acts differently than all
others
before it. It is very hard to shift when the
ambient
temperature "soak" has been only 45F or so, until
the engine (and
I guess tranny) has warmed quite
a bit. With you'r living in WI, I
would expect this
effect to be even more noticeable. True, or
not?
A last inquiry regarding my last (third) new tranny
regards an
affect I never noticed before: When in
third or fourth gear (and maybe
others), if I press
lightly on the shift lever - either fore or aft- I
feel
a significant vibration, if any throttle is applied.
Release the
throttle, and the vibration subsides.
I've only noticed this recently, and
wondered if it
is "normal"?
Thanks again for your indulgence.
Best
regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:43:34 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question
>A last inquiry regarding my last (third) new
tranny
>regards an affect I never noticed before: When
in
>third or fourth gear (and maybe others), if I press
>lightly on
the shift lever - either fore or aft- I feel
>a significant vibration, if
any throttle is applied.
>Release the throttle, and the vibration
subsides.
>I've only noticed this recently, and wondered if it
>is
"normal"?
I posted a similar question to the group some weeks
ago.
I have a 93 with 37K miles and when I press on
the shift lever I get the same
significant vibration. I got
no response as to cause, but subsequently while
looking
at the drive shaft I noticed the rubber vibration isolators
that
go around the center support bearings are deformed
by the weight of the drive
shaft. I feel that under load this
deformation causes the driveshaft to
vibrate. No proof of
this, nor have I replaced the center support
bearings.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth
TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:21:14 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New Tranny Question
On the 5 speed vr-4 tranny there a plug I'm
having a problem with. On the
side of the tranny with the drain plug
(the side that faces the passenger
side wheel) there is a plug. It
looks like a mushroom with a flat top.
It's above the drain plug about
8-10 inches and forward about 3-4 inches.
From the side profile
the plug looks like a "T" with the plug part
being on top and a shaft
coming out if it. It plugs a hole about 2 1/2
inches in
diameter. It tried to push the shaft into the tranny but there
was no
slot in the hole for it to slide into. I know this is where it goes
but it seems to have a Allen head bolt where the shaft should go into the
tranny. Can anyone help me with this. The manuals don't show
this side of
the tranny and thus are no
help.
Thanks,
Brian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 09:35:27 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FP gauge install options
> 1. Tap the fuel rail and
install transducer right there
On my Camaro there is a small valve on the
fuel rail connector where I've
attached the el.Autometer pressure sender
using a small adapter (from NOS). This
gives me the appropriate reading of
the pressure close to the injectors.
> 2. Tap banjo bolt on the
outgoing fuel line out of the fuel filter. Using a
> reducer (1/4 to
1/8), install transducer in the hole on top of the banjo
> bolt.
When installing I will make sure the transducer do not block the
> passage
into the fuel line.
Hmm, just make sure not to reduce the fuel line
diameter by using a reducer. You
can also use a banjo-to-AN adapter together
with a T in between to attach the
sender.
> I need help with
opinions/experiences here - Is the banjo bolt install going
> to give me
accurate readings?
I see no problems as long the inner diameter is not
reduced.
> Can I expect the same fuel pressure at any point between
the fuel filter
> and the FP regulator?
This is teh question I
asked myselfs and I know the best is close to the fuel
rail. Logically I'd
say everything between filter and FPR should read the
same
pressure.
> Also if there is pressure drop, it would be
interesting to know roughly how
> much the drop could be expected to be,
maybe it is negligible?
The only thing I'd not do is to read the pressure
before the filter.
Another idea is to remove the (too small) fuel line
that connect the fuel rails
together, cut the flanges and let someone weld a
bigger pipe to them as well as
a fitting for the fuel pressure sender. I
know, this doesn't sound great and
some work must be done but it would be
best place and you're prepared for any
future fuel parts upgrade
;-)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 06:42:15 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
FP gauge install options
>Another idea is to remove the (too small)
fuel line that connect the fuel
rails
>together, cut the flanges and
let someone weld a bigger pipe to them as
well as
>a fitting for the
fuel pressure sender. I know, this doesn't sound great
and
>some work
must be done but it would be best place and you're prepared
for
any
>future fuel parts upgrade
;-)
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
I
thought about doing this. I would imagine this to be the optimal
place
for the FP transducer as it is between the fuel rails. It is also
a nice,
out of the way place to mount the transducer. Hmmm, sounds like
a good
project for next winter.
Oskar
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 08:43:16 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question
Paul T. Golley wrote:
> Haven't interrogated you
in a while. second new 6-speed transaxle under warranty,
> total
three. gear noise is, I believe, inherent to 6-speed.
Could
be. My friends' Supras all made rattly gear noise at idle, and
VR4
6speed I was in had a little fine gear whine but
non-significant
finding.
> I installed MT90, it acts
differently. It is very hard to shift when ambient
> temperature
only 45F, until engine warmed quite
> a bit. With you'r living in
WI, I would expect this
> effect to be even more noticeable. True,
or not?
Yeah, can be sort of stiff when cold.
> I never
noticed before: third or fourth gear, if I press
> lightly on shift
lever fore or aft I feel significant vibration if throttle applied.
>
Release throttle, and vibration subsides...is "normal"?
If you are
driving along in gear, and ride your hand on the shifter, and
push it forward
or backward a little, you will feel a vibrating
sensation as you are shifting
the gear from its normal, fully-engaged
"neutral" riding position to OUT of
position, and are starting to engage
synchros or some such. You should
not ride with hand on shifter...
Jack
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 07:58:47 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Question
I have the same problem, and the local mitsu
dealer tells me it is the "motor mount"?
Wether or not this is the case, I
can only trust them. I don't have enough
understanding. But it
stands to logic it might be the cause.
james berry wrote:
>
>A last inquiry regarding my last (third) new tranny
> >regards an
affect I never noticed before: When in
> >third or fourth gear
(and maybe others), if I press
> >lightly on the shift lever - either
fore or aft- I feel
- -snip-
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 09:31:13 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info
The rear calipers on vehicles
produced between March/1992 and May/1993 have
7mm bleeders. All others
(before and after) have the 10mm bleeders all around.
Wayne
At
10:20 AM 3/30/99 -0800, you
wrote:
>
>> I'd
like to verify if the brake bleeder screw size for the
'97
3000GT
>> VR4 is
1.0x10mm. I talked to a Speedbleeder rep. and she
informed
me
>> that this was the
size she had in her "majik decoder ring" book
but
>> she also warned
me that she received a few returns from a
certain
>> 3000GT club
members 'cuz the bleeders don't fit in their cars.
>
>Hi
Sankar,
>
>So far, I've only heard of these two sizes for
>our
cars: 10 mm x 1.0, part # SB1010; and 7 mm x 1.0, part # SB7100.
>These are great! Order an SB1010 for your clutch slave cylinder
too.
>
>Good luck.
>Ken Middaugh
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 10:49:28 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeder Size Info
Better make that Jan 92 - May
93. Mine is a Jan 92 and has the
7mm
rears.
Later,
Jose
Wayne wrote:
>
> The
rear calipers on vehicles produced between March/1992 and May/1993
> have
7mm bleeders. All others (before and after) have the 10mm
> bleeders all
around.
>
> Wayne
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 Mar 1999 11:54:09 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question -Reply
How long of a warranty are you getting when you
have these new
tranny's installed? I plan to getting mine replace soon under
my extended
warranty...(poor shifting, noisy, erratic
behavior).
Thanks,
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> "Paul
T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com> 03/30/99
09:42pm >>>
have my second new 6-speed transaxel, installed under
warranty,
making a
total of three. The first was replaced
due to
a lube leak; the second was replaced with a
transfer case as well, due to
gear noise, and this last
was replaced due to gear noise. The gear
noise is,
I believe, inherent to the 6-speed Getrag - I've now
had three
new ones that have all had it. I guess I'm pretty
"nit-picky," because
I've heard several fairly reliable sounding guys on
the
lists say they
don't detect any
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #139
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