--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #138
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Tuesday, March 30 1999 Volume 01
: Number
138
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 07:41:47 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Mod and Missing Link
- -----Original
Message-----
From: PFloyd91@aol.com [mailto:PFloyd91@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday,
March 28, 1999 11:29 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: First Mod and Missing Link
<snip>
So, I'm trying to figure
out if I should just touch up the paint
and give it a good wax job myself and
install the K&N, or put
off the K&N and have the finish worked on
professionally.
(Why is it, that a simple decision such as this becomes a
major
dilemma when one tosses in their "car of a
lifetime"?)
<snip>
John Hitzeman
=============================
John...
I doubt you'll find much
performance increase with an aftermarket intake and
no other mods.
Personally, I'd want my car to look as nice as possible if I
wasn't on a
direct path to future mods. On the other hand, any mod step is a
step.
Choices, choices...
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored
and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 10:55:18 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts For Sale:
I'm buying a 95 VR4 and need to sell the
following parts that came off
my
92 Stealth R/T TT AWD
All parts
will be shipped via UPS - COD. I will pay 50% shipping if
UPS
GROUND,
UPS 2nd day or next day you pay 100% shipping.
PLEASE
respond to me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu
NEW
PARTS are all 10% to 15% OFF from what I
paid.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
===============================================================
Stainless
Steel Brake Lines
(DOT)
$270 $240
Poterfield R4 Front Brake Pads (91-93
only) $160 $140
Poterfield R4 Rear
Break Pads (91-99)
$100 $ 90
ATE Super Blue Racing Brake
Fluid $
15 $ 13 *
*FREE if you purchase 3 items
above.
USED PARTS are all 30% - 60% OFF from what new ones
cost.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
================================================================
Alamo's
Stainless Steel Down Pipe w/ (91-93)
$540 $270
Stainless Steel TEST
PIPE
$ 90 $ 50
Cusco Aluminum Rear Strut
Bar
$255 $200 (Like New)
K&N FIPK CARB
Approved
$155 $ 90
1st Gen DSM BOV w/ Buschur's
adaptor
$125 $ 70
Buschur's Short
Shifter
$100 $ 60
Hella H4 Headlight
Conversion
$ 70 $ 40
55/45 Watts clear H4
bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
55/45 Watts yellow H4 bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
100/85 Watts clear H4
bulbs
$ 25 $ 15
BORLA SS catback
exhaust
$480 $200 **
**with exchange of your
stock one. (must be willing to travel to
Michigan)
Green 92 Dodge
Stealth R/T TT, 74,000mi $44000
$11000 *** 75%
OFF *** :)
New ACT 6puck racing clutch
New 255/40ZR17
Yokohama Nexus tires
New Transfercase
Rebuilt 25 spline 5 speed
transmission
Crossdrilled rotors, Metal Matrix pads,
RSR springs,
magnecore 8.5mm wires, etc.
Dealership only offered me low $9k for
trade-in
PLEASE contact me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu.
Thanks,
Jose
- Buying a 95 VR4...
josesini@engin.umich.edu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:32:08 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: g p on the clutch
> what models and years does this g p
cover
All models and all year :)
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 19:38:03 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: First Mod and Missing Link
> > There's also need for any
filtercharger kit when cleaning. Just wash with
> > water.
>
> i meant NO need. sorry.
Maybe I did not sayed this the right way
... the Blitz SUS does not fit the
stock MAS and can only be used with an
adapter if available or with a VPC mod.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 13:14:14 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Parts For Sale:
Joshua,
Yes, the test pipe replaces
the catalytic converter and allows me to
hook it up to the BORLA or the stock
exhaust.
Yes the strut brace will work on a 94
VR4.
Jose
Joshua wrote:
>
>
> Iwas curious
about the test pipe and Rear strut brace. Is the test pipe the
>
piece which goe sin place of the ctalytice converter yet allows you to
hook
> it up to the borla exhaust? Also will the strut brace work on
a 94 vr-4?
> Thanks
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
josesini
> To: Team3S List; Stealth List
> Sent: 3/29/99 10:55
AM
> Subject: Team3S: Parts For Sale:
>
> I'm buying a 95 VR4
and need to sell the following parts that came off
> my
> 92 Stealth
R/T TT AWD
>
> All parts will be shipped via UPS - COD. I
will pay 50% shipping if UPS
> GROUND,
> UPS 2nd day or next day you
pay 100% shipping.
>
> PLEASE respond to me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu
>
> NEW PARTS are all 10% to 15% OFF from what I
paid.
>
NEW PRICE SALE PRICE
>
===============================================================
>
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
(DOT)
$270 $240
> Poterfield R4 Front Brake Pads
(91-93 only) $160 $140
>
Poterfield R4 Rear Break Pads
(91-99)
$100 $ 90
> ATE Super Blue Racing Brake
Fluid $
15 $ 13 *
> *FREE if you purchase 3 items
above.
>
> USED PARTS are all 30% - 60% OFF from what new ones
cost.
>
NEW PRICE SALE PRICE
>
================================================================
> Alamo's
Stainless Steel Down Pipe w/ (91-93)
$540 $270
> Stainless Steel TEST
PIPE
$ 90 $ 50
> Cusco Aluminum Rear Strut
Bar
$255 $200 (Like New)
> K&N FIPK
CARB
Approved
$155 $ 90
> 1st Gen DSM BOV w/
Buschur's adaptor
$125 $ 70
> Buschur's Short
Shifter
$100 $ 60
> Hella H4 Headlight
Conversion
$ 70 $ 40
> 55/45 Watts clear H4
bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
> 55/45 Watts yellow H4 bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
> 100/85 Watts clear H4
bulbs
$ 25 $ 15
>
> BORLA SS catback
exhaust
$480 $200 **
> **with exchange of your
stock one. (must be willing to travel to
> Michigan)
>
>
Green 92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT, 74,000mi
$44000 $11000 *** 75%
> OFF *** :)
> New ACT
6puck racing clutch
> New 255/40ZR17 Yokohama Nexus tires
> New
Transfercase
> Rebuilt 25 spline 5 speed transmission
> Crossdrilled
rotors, Metal Matrix pads,
> RSR springs, magnecore 8.5mm wires,
etc.
> Dealership only offered me low $9k for trade-in
>
>
PLEASE contact me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jose - Buying a 95 VR4...
> josesini@engin.umich.edu
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 14:17:54 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question about clutch install
Hey everyone,
I'm definitely
in need of a new clutch in the near future, but I haven't
decided on a
aftermarket or stock unit. The group purchase thing is
tempting.
The one question I have is how many hours of labor will it take.
My
Mitsubishi dealer said 9-10 hours, but it seems to me some on the list
said
7-8 hours. Just wanted to get a feel from the group. If I
can
convince my Dealer that it should only take 7-8 hours I know he will
only
charge me for that. hehe.
Thanks,
Curt G
95 R/T
TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 14:39:47 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: How much boost...
Anybody know how much boost you can run with no
fuel system modifications
on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before experiencing
detonation or fuel cut????
Also, will 14psi (if that falls within the
range above) with the 13g's give
you more power than the 9b's with the
selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:20:55 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Question about clutch install
>Hey everyone,
>
>.
The one question I have is how many hours of labor will it take.
>My
Mitsubishi dealer said 9-10 hours, but it seems to me some on the
list
>said 7-8 hours. Just wanted to get a feel from the
group. If I can
>convince my Dealer that it should only take 7-8
hours I know he will only
>charge me for that.
hehe.
>
the dealer should quote a repair cost from the rate book
--- if it
takes two hours he bills for ten if it takes twenty he bills for
ten.
Some shops bill actual time but most use some kind of rate
book. Some
of these clutch shops are much cheeper but as
I do my own work I don't know
about the quality of work. Just
make sure they do the throwout bearing and
pilot bushing.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:41:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How much boost...
> Anybody know how much boost you can run
with no fuel system modifications
> on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before
experiencing detonation or fuel cut????
Detonation starts around 1.00bars
depending on the ambient. Therefore with a
healthy engine 15 psi is ok but
the injectors are getting maxed out quickly !
> Also, will 14psi (if
that falls within the range above) with the 13g's give
> you more power
than the 9b's with the selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
No, but also 17psi is
not healthy to the engine without fuel mods. The 13Gs
change the power range
and increase the max tourque in the mod rpms.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:41:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How much boost...
> Anybody know how much boost you can run
with no fuel system modifications
> on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before
experiencing detonation or fuel cut????
Detonation starts around 1.00bars
depending on the ambient. Therefore with a
healthy engine 15 psi is ok but
the injectors are getting maxed out quickly !
> Also, will 14psi (if
that falls within the range above) with the 13g's give
> you more power
than the 9b's with the selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
No, but also 17psi is
not healthy to the engine without fuel mods. The 13Gs
change the power range
and increase the max tourque in the mod rpms.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:47:00 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: How much boost...
Hi Wayne;
you wrote:
> Anybody
know how much boost you can run with no fuel system modifications
> on a
1st gen with 13g turbos before experiencing detonation or fuel
cut????
The Dyno trials in Europe on the 3S cars indicate that 1 bar
(about 15psi) will be the
max you can run. Exceeding it may seem okay for
awhile but you'll buy into big problems.
>
>
> Also, will
14psi (if that falls within the range above) with the 13g's give
> you
more power than the 9b's with the selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
Increasing
the turbo size won't really offer you much more power without fuel
system
upgrades. It's best to look at what Barry, Jack, Roger, etc have done
in terms of
balancing their packagew before you test the depth of the water
with booth feet.
Otherwise it can become costly, and
disheartening.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 16:34:59 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
I can't believe only one person has an
opinion about removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this mean
all the road racers from last year have left the
discussion
groups?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 16:51:23 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: First
Mod and Missing Link
I guess i should have said earlier. The blitz SUS is
available from nexus
motorsports as the N-speed type R filter. They sell the
adapter with it,
which is custom made by them. Didn't really want to seem
like i was
endorsing anyone..
Omar
92 r/t
> Maybe I
did not sayed this the right way ... the Blitz SUS does
> not fit
the
> stock MAS and can only be used with an adapter if available
or
> with a VPC mod.
>
> -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 16:19:20 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
I have an opinion.
My VR4
would eat its front rotors every couple of months. I tried just
about
every permutation that I could think of until I found one that
worked:-
I removed the backing plates, cut two slots in the "Active
Aero" front dam
and piped a cold air feed using Home Depot flexible aluminum
air duct, and
switched to Axxis metal max pads.
I have since put
30,000 fast miles on a new set of stock rotors. When it
rains I turn
off the Active Aero to minimize water spray from the ducts -
the slots in
the front air dam were cut, so that they are covered when the
dam
retracts. 130+ to zero stops are fade free and my rotors do not
warp.
Steve C
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Monday, March 29, 1999 2:35 PM
To: stealth@starnet.net; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
I can't believe only one person has an
opinion about removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this mean
all the road racers from last year have left the
discussion
groups?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 16:52:18 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question about clutch install
Curt, there is no way they should
charge you that much. Performance
shops usually charge for 5.5 to 7
hours of labor. My clutch install, due
to get done this weekend, is
running me roughly 5.5 hours of labor fees.
Hope this saves you some
money.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 17:22:15 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
At 04:19 PM 3/29/99 -0800, you
wrote:
>I have an opinion.
>I removed the backing plates, cut two
slots in the "Active Aero" front dam
>and piped a cold air feed using
Home Depot flexible aluminum air duct
Wow. Cutting holes in the dam
sounds kind of drastic. I'm trying to imagine
how that would work. Where did
the duct work go when you retracted the dam?
>
>I have since put
30,000 fast miles on a new set of stock rotors. When it
>rains I
turn off the Active Aero to minimize water spray from the ducts -
>the
slots in the front air dam were cut, so that they are covered when the
>dam retracts.
This is the part I don't get -- If you
retract the dam, doesn't it leave
the ducts exposed?
130+ to zero
stops are fade free and my rotors do not warp.
That's what I'm looking
for. Please explain further how it works.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 18:47:20 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Adventure's in Braking
Merrit wrote ;
I can't believe only one person
has an opinion about removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this
mean all the road racers from last year have left the
discussion
groups?
Nag, Nag, Nag
:) I removed mine last year. Cut
them off with a dremel
cut off wheel ( several). Left just one portion on
that hold the speed sensor
cable. Can't say if it helped. Theoretically
it should. Right now I am
fitting some aluminum sheet metal to the back of
the spindle in an attempt to
get more cooling to the rotors. Trying to shape
them to pick up air from under
car, and possible hook into a custom 3/4
spoiler.
Dave 93 VR4 - 2 days left before BIG BRAKES :) :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 17:26:42 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
Drastic yes, not for the faint
hearted, but less expensive than a Brembo
upgrade, and safer than drilled
rotors.
The duct goes inside the airdam. I took the air dam off to
find the best
location for the ducts. Taking the air dam off takes 30
min, routing and
fabricating the ducts took approximately 4 hrs.
In
order to determine the best location for the slots, I switched the aero
on
and off and marked up the level on the front of the dam which retracted
up
into the nose cone. Then I marked-up 6" x 2" slots on either side of
the dam, and re-checked that the marked-up are would fully retract within
the nose cone. This took a couple of attempts.
Next, I cut the
slots and fabricated a ram-cone (between the dam and the
ducting) out of
plastic and duct tape (ugly but hidden by the dam). Then I
wired the
outlet end of the ducts to the front A-arm (this also took a
couple of
attempts before I got all of the clearances right.
Finally, I replaced
the dam and re-worked some of the plumbing in the
process.
I took the
whole assembly off to do some other work, and managed to warp my
rotors
within a week.
Steve C
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 18:45:28 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Adventure's in Braking
I removed mine last
year. Cut them off with a dremel
>cut off wheel ( several). Left just one
portion on that hold the speed sensor
>cable.
Wouldn't it
have been easier to just take out the three little bolts
holding it
in?
>Can't say if it helped.
But it didn't hurt, I take
it.
Theoretically it should. Right now I am
>fitting some aluminum
sheet metal to the back of the spindle in an attempt to
>get more cooling
to the rotors. Trying to shape them to pick up air from
under
>car, and
possible hook into a custom 3/4 spoiler.
Take and post a picture when you
get it done.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 18:57:13 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
At 05:26 PM 3/29/99 -0800, you
wrote:
>Drastic yes, not for the faint hearted, but less expensive than a
Brembo
>upgrade, and safer than drilled rotors.
I am impressed by
your ingenuity and willingness to do all that work.
I've had a weird idea
for tying cooling ducts into the air dam. Tell me if
this would
work:
1. Attach a metal bar to the air dam that extends 12 in. on both
sides.
2. Attach a folding or hinged scoop to the metal bar so that when the
bar
drops down with the air dam, the scoop opens up. When the air dam is
up,
the scoop closes and disappears.
3. Route 2-in. hose from the back of
the scoop to the rotors.
The ideal places for the scoop and hose are the
5 x 9 in. openings in the
valence on both sides of the air dam.
Whaddaya think? Would this work? Can
a bar be attached to the bottom of the
air dam?
At the moment, I have a couple scoops, and plan to fabricate a
cooling
system using the 5 x 9 openings. The problem with this solution is
the
scoops protrude about 2 in. under the valence, and can easily be ripped
off
by a curb or other obstacle. With the air dam idea, they would be up out
of
the way during normal driving.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 21:07:21 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Clutch cross post
Darc,
I posted it on the dragnet
list.
Regards,
Lynn
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Has any member of this group who subscribes to the other 3S
groups,
> cross posted on the clutch group purchase??? The time window is
short,
> so a few more added to the tally will give us the next price
break. I
> remain steadfastly a solo subscriber so I am a bit in the dark
as to
> what traffic is on the other lists. The price is good and can be
even
> better with a few more in on the purchase. Go to Roger's home page
for
> additional information on the purchase for those interested.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 18:22:53 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
Hey Steven;
Sounds like a
worthy project..a couple more vents with ducts into the engine bay might
also
lower temps there. Just a thought. Also, would drilling small holes along
the
bottom of the tubing allow for water drainage if you wanted to, or needed
to, run it
functional in the
rain??
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:13:14 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: g p on the clutch
Roger, are you sure, the RPS link only
shows to 94 or 95. If they will
fit a 96 VR4, I'll sign
up.
Ron
"R.G." wrote:
>
> > what models and years
does this g p cover
>
> All models and all year :)
>
>
Regards,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
>
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 23:05:15 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Bad
clutch master or slave cyl?
I've been having problems with the clutch on
my '91 VR4. Once or twice a day
now I get a nearly resistance-less motion on
the clutch pedal for about half
the clutch pedal stroke when I step on the
pedal to shift. The clutch does
disengage, allowing me to shift, but when I
let out the pedal once again the
clutch hooks up much earlier than normal
(i.e. the clutch did not go full
travel when I stepped on the clutch pedal to
shift - it just went far enough
to barely disengage)
I can get the
clutch to return to normal operation by stepping on the clutch
pedal several
times while in neutral. I intrepret this as building up pressure
in the
system once again. I had the system bled several days ago -
didn't
help.
So, I think I have a bad master or slave cylinder. But
which one? I don't have
any leakage from the slave and the level of the fluid
in the reservior doesn't
change as far as I can tell, so I think the master
is bad.
That is all fine and dandy, but a Mitsu parts dealer who posted
to this group
tells me that he sells a few slaves now and then, but doesn't
even stock the
master as he never sells any. Hmmm.
I need as many
replies as I can get reporting failure of either the slave or
master cylinder
for the clutch. Also please report year and model - SL, VR4,
RT, RT/TT, etc.
I'm trying to get a better idea of the regularity of failures
for the slave
vs. master. This will help me make a more educated wag. Please
private email
to me. I'll tally the results and post for others
general
knowledge.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 00:39:42 EST
From: UNCLEDONUT@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: GAB
Sport strut prices
Hi,
I am thinking of switching
over to GAB Sport struts on my '91 R/T TT and was
wondering who has the best
prices for them. So far, I've only seen prices in
the $750.00-$800.00
range. Is there anywhere lower than that?
Thanks,
- -Dave
Rich
'91 R/T (soon to be a kidney pounder) TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 29 Mar 1999 23:25:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
GAB Sport strut prices
I don't know who has the best price but I got mine
from Chien at Nexus for a
decent deal last year sometime.
I'm sure you
weren't serious about the kidney pounding bit, but I think
you'll find the
GABs to be firm yet supple. Hrmmm...sounds
like...nevermind. Best
not to go there.
I consider the GABs on my '94 the single best
improvement period, and that
includes the addition of all the go fast
goodies. GABs rule.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi,
>
> I am thinking of
switching over to GAB Sport struts on my '91
> R/T TT and was
>
wondering who has the best prices for them. So far, I've only
> seen
prices in
> the $750.00-$800.00 range. Is there anywhere lower than
that?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Dave Rich
> '91 R/T (soon
to be a kidney pounder) TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:27:37 -0500
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: GAB
Sport strut prices
RD Enterprises, I believe has the cheapest prices on
these. They can be
found at www.shox.com
If I remember correctly mine
were 768 shipped for all 4.
Be prepared to wait for the struts for a while,
I ordered mine in December
and finally received them in February. The guys at
RD are great though. It
was completely the fault of GAB, since they do not
stock these units in the
US.
I finally have installed the GAB's on my
93 VR4. They are a fantastic
improvement. I matched them up with a set of
H&R springs and 275/40/17
Firestone SZ 50's from Tire Rack at the same
time and the car handles
fantastic. I will have some pictures scanned in
soon. Just got them
developed. The fronts took about 3 hours to do and the
backs were about 2
hours. Now I just have to get it re-aligned. Well worth
the price!
Car handled fine at Summit Point drivers school where I just
got back from
instructing this weekend. Car does 140mph on the front straight
with nary a
wiggle, and that is only cruising out of turn 10 at about 50mph.
I didn't
want to have to find the limit of the brakes in turn 1. Scares the
students
silly =:o
> I am thinking of switching over to
GAB Sport struts on my '91 R/T TT and
was
>wondering who has the best
prices for them. So far, I've only seen prices in
>the
$750.00-$800.00 range. Is there anywhere lower than that?
- -shawn
dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy hands of a
new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8
(the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car (SSC
class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:39:52 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: GAB Sport strut prices
Shawn,
Is changing the struts something
someone with average hand tools can do
at
home?
Regards,
Lynn
Shawn Dewey wrote:
>
> I
finally have installed the GAB's on my 93 VR4. They are a fantastic
>
improvement. I matched them up with a set of H&R springs and
275/40/17
> Firestone SZ 50's from Tire Rack at the same time and the car
handles
> fantastic. I will have some pictures scanned in soon. Just got
them
> developed. The fronts took about 3 hours to do and the backs were
about 2
> hours. Now I just have to get it re-aligned. Well worth the
price!
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 09:38:44 -0600
From: Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bad clutch master or slave cyl?
Paul:
>I've been having
problems with the clutch on my '91 VR4. Once or twice
>a day
>now I
get a nearly resistance-less motion on the clutch pedal for
>about
half
>the clutch pedal stroke when I step on the pedal to shift. The
clutch
<major snip>
Sounds like the same problem I am
correcting today. VR4's have a
vacuum assist for the
clutch. Mine failed as part of a combination of
things relative to
clutch replacement. I think the part was like $150
from Tall.
Mitsu. Hope this
helps.
Regards,
Scott
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:51:27 -0800
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Speed Bleeder Size Info
Greetings
folks,
I'd like to verify if the
brake bleeder screw size for the '97
3000GT
VR4 is 1.0x10mm. I
talked to a Speedbleeder rep. and she informed
me
that this was the size she had
in her "majik decoder ring" book
but
she also warned me that she
received a few returns from a
certain
3000GT club members 'cuz
the bleeders don't fit in their
cars.
I also checked with my
local Mitsu parts dept. and all he has
for
size is 'M10' for all four
corners.
Any help is
appreciated.
Thanks!
- -sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
You
claim a birthright you have forsaken?
I have not forsaken my heritage. I am
Klingon. My heart is of
this world. My blood is as
yours.
-- Duras and Worf, "Sins of the Father", stardate
43685.2
*******************************************************************************
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #138
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