--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #136
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S
Digest Sunday, March 28
1999 Volume 01 : Number
136
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 03:42:37 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (???)
Barry,
I'm not exactly sure
what rpms I'm seeing these boost levels. I would estimate that
I'm
seeing the peak between 2-4k, as high as 1.2 atmosphere. It'll stay above
1.0 for a
bit, then fall back down. I was able to stay at or very near
.80 in third all the way
to redline, but it seems that in 2nd, it'll fall
down to .50. It seems to be able to
peak near 1.2 in any gear,
1-6. I am not able to notice a difference with the unit off,
although
I've not run it long with the unit off.
Roger,
By smooth
acceleration, I meant that there is no stumbles. I would think that if
I
was running out of fuel, I could feel it in the acceleration.
Those acceleration runs were done with only the filter for mods, and dealing
with
stumbles due to old plugs/wires. My 60' seems painfully high for a
run that fast, it
seems reasonable to think I should be able to get 1.7* 60'
times, that would knock about
2 tenths of a second off my 60', and ATLEAST 2
tenths of a second off my 1/4 mile time
if I was able to drive it as well
after 60'. *Supposedly*, Adam Weltz ran 12.32 (?) or
near with a boost
controller, filter, and exhaust. Not sure if his cats were gutted
and
whether he had a downpipe or not. I'm getting the impression that
the factory exhaust
isn't a big hinderance, especially after gutted cats,
until you start talking much more
power. I don't see any reason at all
that I won't be able to get 12s, atleast,
considering the above.
Besides missing third gear (14.07), my slowest runs have been
13.7s.
I've had several 13.6s and 2 13.3s. All runs were done with the same mods,
the
majority of the slower runs were done with slip clutch launches, the
quicker ones were
done with dump clutch launches (spinning excessively, even
leaving smoke) and speed
shifting.
I know that it's possible to
read lower psi after moving to aftermarket exhaust. This
wouldn't mean
a drop in power as it would flow more air, but there would be
less
restriction and therefore less pressure. I'm wondering if the same
isn't possible with
gutting the cats, I wouldn't see why not. Also,
Barry mentioned that he had seen up to
12.5 psi with his 94 with stock
mods. I dunno if this included a filter and gutted
cats, or similar,
but that could also explain why I haven't noticed a big
difference.
Darc,
I was hoping you were right, then I looked at
the Apexi book and it shows the IDC wire
location as being the same for both
M1 and M3, plus my harnesses look identicle to M1
and the IDC is the ony wire
I tapped into on the ECU. I hated having to mess with the
ECU, and
could find no reason that the ign key, constant power, and ground would be
any
different anywhere in the car, so I used the ones leading to my
stereo.
All,
Something is definately amiss, and now I feel
certain the the controller is doing
nothing more than measuring. I just
woke up after a 12+ hour nap, and it's dark, cold,
and scary outside right
now, so I'll have to check the install tomorrow. I had been
planning on
visiting Mike's shop (Altered Atmosphere) tomorrow, perhaps he can take
a
look. A couple things about the install concerned me. The
Apexi's solenoid nipples are
6pi, but everything on the car was 4pi.
What I did was run the 6pi hose, the insert a
small section of the factory
4pi hose in the end, right before it attached to the
vehicle, the y-pipe
fitting, etc. I later decided this is probably fine as the Apexi
kit
comes with 6pi-4pi adapters. The only other thing that bothered me
somewhat was
that when I tapped into the t/b hose going to the factory
pressure sensor and t'd it to
the apexi sensor, it left a bend in the hose
going to the factory pressure sensor. It
certainly isn't crimped, and
is hardly bent, but this, if it is bad, would lead to
exactly the problems
I'm having, no? The bend in the line could make the car's
pressure
sensor think that boost is higher than it actually is, maxxing my
injecors. Because
boost isn't actually that high, and the bend is after
the t fitting going to the apexi
sensor, the apexi is showing fairly normal
boost readings, but it won't learn cause the
injectors are maxxed. This
would explain no increase in power, and the maxxed
injectors... I hope
that makes sense, and is the problem, I'll mess with it
tommorow...
thanks again,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 09:50:34 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
Merritt
wrote:
>
> >I am curious what everyone else here has been
spending on
> >maintenance for the 91-93's
>
> I've had a
94 VR4 for nearly a year. It has about 65,000 miles.
> Except for 2
oil changes (Mobil 1), I have had NO maintenance expenses. My
> warranty
covered a new Getrag transmission, so that cost me $100 to
>
replace. Of course, it's not a daily driver. I've put less than
5,000
> miles on it so far.
I bought my '94 with 34k and it now has
70k, Mobil 1 and Mitsu filter
every 5k, 60k service along with almost all
mods at 50k (with the AVC-R
set to 1.00 bar).
This car has been exetremely
reliable, just as I'd hoped a Japanese car
would be. Only problems that
have cropped up are minor (so minor that
I've been ignoring them): lifter
tick (goes away when I rev RPMs, so I'm
not worried), a noisy exhaust heat
shield, warped rotors, and active
exhaust keeps sticking (I can spray it with
WD-40 to unstick, but then
it resticks again since I so rarely use it).
I do have a set of Jack's
synchros in case I ever need them, but while the
shifting is a tad
notchy, it has been that way since the day I bought the car
and hasn't
gotten any worse, so who knows.
I have been extremely happy
with the car and don't think I could find
anything else that comes close to
its level of performance (400 hp!),
reliability (no unscheduled maintenance
in the 36k miles I've owned
it!), safety (dual air bags, ABS), practicality
(all season car, baby
seat in back), style (head turner, especially over here
in Europe) and
in general satisfaction for anywhere near the price, with or
without
expensive repairs if they are eventually needed.
I understand that
there are several first gen turbos that are still
going after 150k-200k miles
with no problems, so both generations were
built well and should be very
reliable if maintained properly.
I have also heard some horror stories and
can understand if an owner
decides to dump a particular car and bail
out. As for the Honda Accord
(I sold my '89 LXi coupe to buy the
Stealth), it is an excellent car
with much improved styling and bulletproof
reliability. Handling is
very good but as a performance car I'm afraid
it is not in the same
league. Still a lot of fun to
drive!
> >Another question, I heard tell that someone here
raced a sportbike with
> thier GT...
Not much chance of any cage
beating out a two-wheeler, but the surprise
aspect makes it fun to try!
:-)
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 07:38:47 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
Andrew Brilliant
wrote:
> Another question, I heard tell that someone here raced a
sportbike with thier GT, Jack T. I
> think? What are your 0-60
times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with me riding it, and
>
I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and what
conditions? I saw a
> race between the Ducati Superbike team, and a
Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 got spanked
> nicely. I would love to see
your beast in action..
I dunno about Jack's 60mph times, but he's
turned 10s in the 1/4. Street versions of the
Mclaren can do 60 in 3.2,
dunno about the racing version, which I understand has few
differences
besides gearing for *better* acceleration. The 911 turbo, and viper GTS,
stock,
can do 60 in the upper 3s, if I'm not mistaken, the 959 and Bugatti
EB110 (quad turbo 3.5 liter
V12, AWD) were around 3.5. The F40 is in
the upper 3s I think, and you can read about Jack's
race with it in the
3000gt.com. If I recall correctly, Jack was running on pump gas,
less
boost, and the guy refused to race from a dead stop. I don't think
the F40 ever got more than
a car length ahead. I also recall a bike
magazine doing comparisons of several bikes, and
there were several, maybe
half that couldn't hit 0-60 in under 3 seconds, they were around
3.2.
Most of the 1/4 mile times were in the upper 10s, but these weren't your average
guys
driving either.
About F1 cars. I know more about Indy
cars, and little about both. I would think that F1 is
just as fast, if
not faster. At any rate, an article I read awhile ago spoke of an Indy
car
averaging 240mph on an oval (that's one for Nascar lovers :P
). He did the whole track, 2
miles I think, in roughly 30
seconds. God only knows what he topped out at, but onto
more
facts... They were speaking of limitting hp output from 800-600,
don't recall the engine size,
but it was tiny, around 1.5 liters if I'm not
mistaken. I also recall reading of Indy or F1
cars reaching 100mph in
just under 3 seconds, dunno how true it was, but sounds possible.
More
hp than a Mclaren, and it's gotta weigh less. Sorry, but I find
that TV show hard to swallow.
I also thought cars had the potential to
outhandle bikes, was this straight-line acceleration
or a road
course?
There are several stories of 3000gts beating motorcycles, and
I don't think most owners of
bikes are turning regular sub 3 second
acceleration runs, even though the bike has the
potential, the driver may
not. How in the world did you clock yerself 0-60, I found it hard to
do
the same, accurately, in a car. Stock vs Stock I don't think there's much
competition,
surprise helps alot though.
Jason
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 08:18:33 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
change to synthetic oil
Darc or whoever,
What are the recommended
products to use for flushing the crankcase and
oil
journals??
Regards,
Lynn '93 ES #0232
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi Ken;
>
> I own a 92 Stealth TT and found an oil flush
rinsed out the baked fosil
> oils and deposits which caused ticking,
restricted lines, etc. Once
> flushed and Mobil 1 sythetic was put in, I
noticed a lack of ticking.
> When or if it comes back, I plan to use a
flush again.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 06:21:48 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: change to synthetic oil
- -----Original Message-----
From:
William Lynn Larsen [mailto:wlarsen@ibm.net]
Sent: Saturday,
March 27, 1999 5:19 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: change to synthetic oil
Darc or whoever,
What are the
recommended products to use for flushing the crankcase and
oil
journals??
Regards,
Lynn '93 ES
#0232
===========================
I've used the product labeled "Motor
Flush". It comes in a one quart can for
$3.00 and requires 5 minutes at idle.
A salesman told me it's nothing more
than kerosene, but I'll stick with a
labeled product when I flush. It
eliminated the "ticking" at idle and
(hopefully) removed any traces of burnt
oil in the turbos and any deposits
left from the previous owners use of dino
oil with Slick 50.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 07:27:54 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
change to synthetic oil
>
>What are the recommended products to
use for flushing the crankcase and
>oil journals??
I used
an oil flush made by Gunk --- It worked fine, but no miracles.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 11:33:17 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
change to synthetic oil
Thanks for the input, I used to use Castrol
20-50, but have been using
Castrol Syntec for about 2-3 years now. Do
you think the flush will
still
be necessary or could I just switch to
Mobil 1 in attempt to stop valve
lash
adjuster ticking when cold??
Since winter is over the ticking is not so
bad,
but when cold, I noticed
that the ticking was more prevalent and the oil
pressure stayed lower.
I assume that is because the oil never got hot
enough
to raise the
viscosity much.
Regards,
Lynn
james berry wrote:
>
> I used an oil flush made by Gunk --- It worked fine, but no
miracles.
chris winkley wrote:
>
> I've used the product
labeled "Motor Flush". It eliminated the "ticking" at idle
> and
(hopefully) removed any traces of burnt oil in the turbos and any deposits
> left from the previous owners use of dino oil with Slick 50.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 08:40:27 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (???)
Jason;
snip
> I
was hoping you were right, then I looked at the Apexi book and it shows the IDC
wire
> location as being the same for both M1 and M3, plus my harnesses
look identicle to M1
> and the IDC is the ony wire I tapped into on the
ECU. I hated having to mess with the
> ECU, and could find no reason
that the ign key, constant power, and ground would be any
> different
anywhere in the car, so I used the ones leading to my stereo.
Sounds
reasonable, logical, and all of that practical stuff, however....But Apexi wants
you
to tap into the harness in the directions or they'd say tap into the most
easily available
source for the ground and power. I wonder if this isn't the
problem...possibly there is a
big differrence if it is not routed through the
ECU. Just my thought on the problem
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 08:49:45 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: change to synthetic oil
Hi Lynn;
Use the Gunk product if
available (it's a 5 minute flush at idle like Chris's product, I
believe) and
then change filter and oile to Mobil 1 ( I use 10-30). For the few
bucks
extra and another 5 or 10 minutes, it's worth comapring the results.
Follow directions
on the product you buy.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 10:03:46 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (???)
The AVC-R requires two positive power
sources. One which is always on to
keep the program memory alive and
the other which is switched with the
ignition. So long as you have done
that then you should be fine. If not,
then you should fix that or the
AVC-R will never remember learned settings
after the ignition is turned
off.
Remember that pi 4 hose you mentioned stuffing into the end of the
pi 6
hose? Are you certain that it is
airtight?
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Jason;
> snip
>
>
> I was hoping you were right, then I looked at the Apexi
book
> and it shows the IDC wire
> > location as being the same
for both M1 and M3, plus my
> harnesses look identicle to M1
> >
and the IDC is the ony wire I tapped into on the ECU. I hated
>
having to mess with the
> > ECU, and could find no reason that the ign
key, constant power,
> and ground would be any
> > different
anywhere in the car, so I used the ones leading to my stereo.
>
>
Sounds reasonable, logical, and all of that practical stuff,
>
however....But Apexi wants you
> to tap into the harness in the directions
or they'd say tap into
> the most easily available
> source for the
ground and power. I wonder if this isn't the
> problem...possibly there is
a
> big differrence if it is not routed through the ECU. Just my
>
thought on the problem
>
> Best
>
> Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 12:25:10 -0500
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Spring Startup
I stored my 1993 R/T TT covered in the driveway
for the winter (long
here in Michigan). All fluids were changed and
topped up as necessary.
And the battery was removed. I know that the ECU will
need to relearn
when the battery is replaced, and I may experience some flaky
idle. I
had no code set in the radio. Anything else I can be
prepared for?
Thanks,
Don
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 12:46:07 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (???)
The electrical sources are
correct in that the ign lead is seeing ign power and the
constant power lead
is seeing constant power. Other than that it should not matter
what
location they come from.
I actually used one of the included
6pi-4pi adapters, with clamps on both sides,
pretty sure it's ok, cept for
the change in hose diameter maybe. I actually missed a
couple steps
from your instructions, doh... I only got as far as the y-pipe hose,
and
the hose coming from the 4way adapter, atleast it runs right and my
engine is ok...
I've still got to cut and cap the other
hoses.
Jason
Barry E. King wrote:
> The AVC-R requires
two positive power sources. One which is always on to
> keep the
program memory alive and the other which is switched with the
>
ignition. So long as you have done that then you should be fine. If
not,
> then you should fix that or the AVC-R will never remember learned
settings
> after the ignition is turned off.
>
> Remember that
pi 4 hose you mentioned stuffing into the end of the pi 6
> hose?
Are you certain that it is airtight?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 15:01:15 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking--1999
Fellow road racers:
Took the
first step in preparing the car today for the 1999
Porsche/Vette/5.0
wars:
I replaced the front rotors on my 94 VR4 with new
PowerSlots.
As some of you may recall, last year I broke one PowerSlot
(snapped it in
half), and the company replaced both of the rotors.
I'm leaving the old carbon metallics on for a week or so to help season
the
rotors, then I'll stick in new Performance Friction pads a week before
the
Porsche club event in Topeka.
Whilst I was in there changing
rotors, I wondered if I should remove the
shielding around each rotor. I
thought I'd ask youse guys first, since some
of you have already been
there.
The shielding's purpose, I guess, is to keep dirt from getting on
the
rotor, and to provide a mount for the ABS sensor hose. It seems like it
is
also preventing cooling air from getting to the rotor (unless
those
odd-shaped projections are some kind of a demon air flow
scheme).
Does anyone know any reason why I should not remove the shield?
Izzit OK to just let the ABS sensor hose hang loose, or should I anchor
it
somewhere with a tiewrap?
I'm planning to run a 2-in. hose from a
scoop under the front valence up to
the brakes, but with the shield in place,
there doesn't seem to be any
place to direct the air. I'm s'posed to direct
the cooling air to the
center of the rotor, so it can disperse equally.
Any ideas on any of this?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 14:28:03 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
Pete Ryner
wrote:
> I bought my 91 new along with an extended warranty for 7
years. The only problems I encountered were brake rotors (changed at 15K),
the speedo (changed at 20K), lifters (make a "ticking" sound and changed at 40K)
and trannys. I've had
- -snip-
how does it compare, you'd
compare those two... it's about like a F-15 vs a 747..
BTW I am selling
the 91 for $8500 anyone?? please, just get me out of this thing. The
dealership offered my $8k for the trade, I think it's worth a little
more.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 14:46:38 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
> hp than a Mclaren,
and it's gotta weigh less. Sorry, but I find that TV show hard to
swallow.
> I also thought cars had the potential to outhandle bikes, was
this straight-line acceleration
> or a road course?
>
There are several stories of 3000gts beating motorcycles, and I don't think most
owners of
> bikes are turning regular sub 3 second acceleration runs, even
though the bike has the
> potential, the driver may not. How in the
world did you clock yerself 0-60, I found it hard to
> do the same,
accurately, in a car. Stock vs Stock I don't think there's much
competition,
> surprise helps alot though.
- -snip-
I found
the Ducati show hard to belive also, I was sure that the F1 would have left the
superbikes
behind. It could have been rigged, given it was at Ducati's
anniversary party, so It was far from
a sanctioned test you know. THe
bikes were taking him on the turns, and low speed acceleration.
The car blew
by them on the straights, after 5 laps the bikes had anywhere from a car length
to
100ft on the F1. The 500cc 2 stroke led the pack, followed by the
916, and the 748.
I clocked thi gixxer at LV speedway it was during Skip
Barber school last summer. Magazine dyno's
are as high as around 120 hp
for stock 98+ GSXR 750. Claimed weight is 398lbs dry. We just
sort
of used the equipent they had, a radar gun with a timer, you set the
speed you want to time to. We
had to do it about 6 times, because it
was really hard to get the radar to stay fixed on a tiny
GSX'R.. The 1/4 was
10.886 speed I dunno? I wheelied 1st.
Last night there were 3 of us
at a stoplight next to a Viper GTS year unknown. CBR 900RR, and two
of
us on gixxer 750's The viper got all sideways for about 1/2 block, we left
him way back. He
just couldn't hook up. The next light he hooked
up good, and we still toasted him. He was really
pissed. I yelled
" I only paid 10% of what you paid for that" I am confident a $1800
modded VR-4
could have run with that Viper.
As far as corenering, I do
know that my stock 91 VR-4 with a leaky strut worked a number over on
my
roomates 97 YZF 1000
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 16:00:43 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Camber fix for lowering springs
Subject: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering
springs
>the low down on how to fix the negative camber created by
lowering
>springs.
>extra positive camber. This means make the holes
longer toward the
>engine bay, not toward the wheel.
Ron- Thanks
for your reaponse! I think you may have misinterpreted
your
suspension guy, or he's
inexperienced:
Moving the upper
mounts toward the engine bay will
increase the excessive negative camber
caused by
lowering springs.
>The rear is different because the
front struts mount to the spindles
>The rear you must elongate the sub
frame where the lower control arm
>attaches near the differential.
adjuster for
>the camber adjustment and the lower is fixed. Again, don't
widen, just
>elongate, this time toward the wheel.
Again,
elongating the lower member controlling the camber
of the rear wheel, will
only increase the undesireable
excessive negative camber resulting from
lowering springs.
Regards, ptg
PS: If anyone on the list
thinks I'm wrong in this post
regarding suspension, please yell about it! I
should
also say I am assuming that positive camber is the
outward tilt of
the weel/tire centerline.
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 17:55:07 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Again, elongating the
lower member controlling the camber
> of the rear wheel, will only
increase the undesireable
> excessive negative camber resulting from
lowering springs.
>
Not really. The lower arm would pull in the the
lower portion of the
wheel if moved toward the centerline of the car. Look at
the
suspension illustration in the manual. The sub frame where the
lower
control arm attaches is around the differential. The yoke that
the
control arm is bolted through is what must be elongated so you
can
move the control arm more towards the center of the car taking out
the
negative camber. see ASCII below.
/ \ this is negative
camber showing wheel angles
/_ if the horizontal line is the
lower control arm it must be moved
to the right to remove the negative
camber.
You are literally moving the pivot point of the lower control arm
to
compensate for the lack of adjustment.
It was my mistake in the
original post about the direction that the
holes need to be slotted. I
corrected that. As far as my suspension
mechanic being inexperienced, I doubt
Ebby Lunken would let any idiot
work on his Ferrari or Lamborginis. Or Jim
Jaeger(former owner of
Escort radar detectors) or a host of race car owners
from 8 states
around. He is also a former McClaren crew chief. I included
this in
the original post.
I will be having this done in about a week.
I will borrow the company
digital camera and document the process.
Ron
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 16:54:54 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: home
depot ram air
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Lynn! Sorry I should of Explained About the Ram
Air, I just thought =
everbody visited the 3Si.org Web page under mod's and
read about this. =
Visit it for all the Details And by the way Has Any body
Made This And =
Does it Really Work=20
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content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Lynn! Sorry I should of =
Explained About=20
the Ram
Air, I just thought everbody visited the 3Si.org Web page under
=
mod's=20
and read about this. Visit it for all the Details And by the
way Has Any =
body=20
Made This And Does it Really
Work=20
<HR>
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 17:02:25 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking--1999
General motors has decided that
their F-Body and saturn cars do not need
inner shields. I see no need
for the shields, especially since you will be
changing pads <5,000
miles.
Be sure to tie the ABS line with a tie wrap or something, as
vibration will
kill wires.
> Brad
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Merritt
Sent: Saturday, March 27, 1999 3:01 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S:
Adventures in braking--1999
Fellow road racers:
Took the first
step in preparing the car today for the 1999
Porsche/Vette/5.0
wars:
I replaced the front rotors on my 94 VR4 with new PowerSlots.
As
some of you may recall, last year I broke one PowerSlot (snapped it in
half),
and the company replaced both of the rotors.
I'm leaving the old carbon
metallics on for a week or so to help season the
rotors, then I'll stick in
new Performance Friction pads a week before the
Porsche club event in
Topeka.
Whilst I was in there changing rotors, I wondered if I should
remove the
shielding around each rotor. I thought I'd ask youse guys first,
since some
of you have already been there.
The shielding's purpose, I
guess, is to keep dirt from getting on the
rotor, and to provide a mount for
the ABS sensor hose. It seems like it is
also preventing cooling air from
getting to the rotor (unless those
odd-shaped projections are some kind
of a demon air flow scheme).
Does anyone know any reason why I should not
remove the shield?
Izzit OK to just let the ABS sensor hose hang loose, or
should I anchor it
somewhere with a tiewrap?
I'm planning to run a
2-in. hose from a scoop under the front valence up to
the brakes, but with
the shield in place, there doesn't seem to be any
place to direct the air.
I'm s'posed to direct the cooling air to the
center of the rotor, so it can
disperse equally.
Any ideas on any of this?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 18:01:13 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking--1999
At 05:02 PM 3/27/99 -0600, you
wrote:
>General motors has decided that their F-Body and saturn cars do
not need
>inner shields. I see no need for the shields, especially
since you will be
>changing pads <5,000 miles.
More like every
1,000 miles. A weekend at a drivers school is a lifetime
for brake
pads.
>
>Be sure to tie the ABS line with a tie wrap or something,
as vibration will
>kill wires.
Good idea.
>
Rich/old
poop
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 19:46:32 +0000
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: home depot ram air
> Ken Taft wrote:
>
>
Lynn! Sorry I should of Explained About the Ram Air, I just
thought
> everbody visited the 3Si.org Web page under mod's and read about
this.
> Visit it for all the Details And by the way Has Any body Made This
And
> Does it Really Work
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I
saw the original set up in the blue Stealth. Personally I wouldn't
have done
it the way he did it. Actually closing off the filter with the
exception of
what gets sucked thru the pipe doesn't seem right. If it
didn't completely
enclose the filter I'd suggest it, but I can't say
riveting sheet metal
completely around it is the best way to go. The
best and only "true" ramair
is to cut a hole in your hood and run a
scoop right over the filter. Runnin
more than a foot of pipe that has
any kind of bend in it kills the purpose of
ramair. Cause for every inch
the air travels, it's going to slow down. And
every bend severely kills
the velocity of the air. Of course, if you
completely reran the intake
piping, relocated the air sensor and had a hole
in your hood (or a
scoop) like Brian of GT Alley had (can't believe I'm
referencing to him)
you'd have a nice ramair setup going for ya.
-
--Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
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------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Mar 1999 20:43:01 -0700
From: "jefyoung" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thermostat
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As I am putting the engine back together after the past
winters' =
modifications, I have come to the thermostat. ...Now I remember
when =
working on Detroit iron that a colder thermostat or no thermostat at
=
all, would always be installed. Has anybody installed a cooler
=
thermostat on their VR4/TT? What temp did you use, and did you feel
any =
difference?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 Dodge RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
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name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans
MS" size=3D2>As I am =
putting the engine=20
back together after the
past winters' modifications, I have come to the=20
thermostat. ...Now I
remember when working on Detroit iron that a colder =
thermostat or no
thermostat at all, would always be installed. Has
=
anybody=20
installed a cooler thermostat on their VR4/TT? What
temp did you =
use, and=20
did you feel any
difference?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2>Jeffrey</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>92
Dodge=20
RT/Turbo</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.omega-sw.com/stealth">www.omega-sw.com/stealth</A></FO=
NT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans
MS"=20
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Mar 1999 13:19:25 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! Day 1
Friends,
I've a ctivated
the Team3S Group Purchase Information Page. You'll find the
first GP there
and hopefully some more in the future :)
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
The
GP on the RPS clutches for our cars (N/T and Turbo) is ACTIVE and will
stay
open till the end of the week. This time limit is due to the long wait
for up to
two months for the clutches until they are made and shipped and
some of us just
can't wait for them.
So jump to the page and write me
a message to join the GP. The more we'll get
together the better the price
will be !
Thanks,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/
tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #136
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